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Is Vertical Drywall Worth It?
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 14 ส.ค. 2024
- Can you install drywall vertically to avoid mudding butt joints? In this video I show you how. Find my favourite drywall tools here: 🇺🇸geni.us/lZ2WE (Amazon) 🇨🇦 geni.us/FJSwoB (Amazon)
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I have remodeled most of my house with the helpful info in Jeff's videos, but this is the first I am a bit indifferent about. In the few rooms I framed and drywalled, I hung the drywall vertically. After framing, I used a 14.5 inch piece of 2x4 and basically checked the gap between each stud. Anywhere that was a good amount off I just put that block between the studs and it evened everything out. Then I would go through with insulation/vapor barrier.
I think the horizontal strapping would cause issue in cases of hanging tvs or anything else that would require stud mounting. It would pull the drywall closer to the stud and bend/crack it between the straps.
I stand by framing more carefully, taking your time and hanging vertical. No butt joints, not horizontal strapping needed. No long run issues.
Alex, yes this is the way to go! On floor joists it's called bridging. On walls I believe it blocking. One in between every stud is not a bad idea. If money is not a problem use fire treated lumber for blocking because the blocking will slow a fire from climbing the insides of a wall, it acts as a fire break! Just sayin !
@@stevehamman4465 That's what I thought.
I originally got the idea watching a few decks being built and they straightened out some of the joists using this process. I just assumed it would work framing a wall, tried it, and it worked like a charm.
@@alexkramer6054 , been awhile for me but, if 10ft long floor joists, may be code to have bridging.
I thought Jeff was going to do blocking as you describe.. this video is strange.. amateurish when so much of his other videos are so good. Let's try to forget this one.
Figure out where your tv’s and cabinets are going to be and use a wider piece in those locations.
Just wanted to say thank you for all your videos over the years. Currently reno-ing our master bath and have used your videos for just about every step of the process. Huge THANK YOU for everything you do!!!
That is awesome!
It's so interesting to see how different countries do things; here in Japan, hanging drywall vertical is the standard, without using the horizontal strapping- directly onto the studs. Also, those drywall squares are non-existent over here. Everyone uses electric saws with drywall blades, hooked up to vacuum extraction.
Very cool. Cheers
Is everything done with lumber in Japan too? I understood that wood frame is not universal and it’s based on availability and price of wood
What about steel/aluminum studs? The prices for both wood and steel are swinging so the debate is real in SoCal. Still seems horizontal is better with finer thread screws, but am I wrong?
@@wiseguy8828 I don't work in industrial, but I know that large buildings such at supermarkets, drug stores, large offices etc. build with metal frames. I build family homes and two-story apartment buildings and wood frames are the standard for us. I've never seen metal studs used for homes, etc. though perhaps that may just be due to the region I'm in? Japan is pretty flush for wood though, so I'm not sure.
@@cjplay2 I don't work with those, so I can't say. All homes and apartments under 3 stories are built with wood framing, as far as I know though. Like I said, plasterboard put up vertically is the standard and we use both 32mm and 41mm length plasterboard screws, depending on the type of plasterboard we're putting up- regular or strengthened, and also depending if we're putting 1 layer or 2.
This is the most realistic building show out there. That's exactly how I squint too when I cut plywood!
🤓
I am glad that you both kept and acknowledged the measurement error in the video. I caught it immediately but only due to the practice of repeating measurements to myself no less than 14 times each due to making that same mistake many many many times myself
Thanks for helping out on so many topics.
After watching "No more butt joints ", I wanted to share this solution for people like me who just can't get tapping down. I cut 8" strips of osb and glue 1.5" wide strips of heavy cardboard (I get 1/32 thick sheets from work) along both edges. Then I place the dw sheet to fall between studs, screw the butt edge to centerline of the osb with the cardboard against the back of it When both sheets are screwed tight the cardboard causes a slight valley.
You know, I live in a country where we don't build with wood & drywall, but with concrete and stones, but watching your videos makes me confident that I can do a DIY project with your tips.
You're awesome, warm greetings from Libya 🇱🇾
Do you have drywall and lumber like this over there?
Love that facial expression near the end when you are showing one horizontal taping from end to end of wall. Classic Jeff
All you need to do is set up your studs for framing 4' (1200mm) sheets, hence why we frame either 400mm or 600mm centres. Hanging drywall vertically is very easy if you know how, and it eliminates butt joins, leaving only tapered edges to fill.
2:45 i like how Jeff is confident enough in his abilities, at the same time accepts that if the thing is hidden, it just has to be functional, not visually perfect
Drywall was designed to be installed vertically and when we are talking fire rating it is code for it to be placed vertically so there is no edge without wood backing. Only tapers like drywall horizontally because of the awkward motion needed to fill a vertical joint also the way the fibers run inside the drywall it gives more support vertically I find it funny that you would show the proper way as a alternative way fyi I been drywalling for 25 years
Just finishing up a master bedroom suite and bath remodel where I ran about 16 sheets vertically and it turned out awesome. So worth the extra difficulty to avoid but seems. Major pain if your working by yourself. Still worth it.
I did my entire basement virtically and it looks fantastic.
But these plywood shims create a gap between the drywall and the studs. So if you need to mount something to the studs later, like a shelf, a cabinet, a TV, etc, it will bend the drywall, and possibly crack it too
Usually i'm on the same page as Jeff, but Vertical with no strapping is not an issue at all for a casual DIY'er like me who finished my own basement. If you take the time to make sure your studs are perfectly even (as simple as a perfectly cut 2x4 spacer top and bottom to locate each framing stud while nailing) you don't have to dick around with the drywall later. Maybe this takes a little more time, but the result is perfect and no butt joints.
I'm going vertical with my basement. No issues so far.
We always did vertical, but that was on a mainfloor, rather than the basement. Zero strapping. Zero popped nails.
Worked great for us.
Same here.
Tell me your a hack without telling me you are a hack
@@TheBUGZNTA
We picked out our own 2x4s...
I just did vertical drywall in my basement. I had no problems with stud/drywall edge alignment. I really don't see what all the fuss is about.
@@marshaul
I think you just need to select your lumber to assure straightness. Same should go for 2x6s.
I installed and finished sheetrock for over 24 years, they used to hang it like this back in the day but then changed and I think they changed due to sagging issues with humidity. On small projects I hang it vertically just to cut down on butt joints and sanding but a good finisher can hide anything :) Then they started using glue on studs and no nails except on edges, few years later and that chit would come crashing down or popping off, out west that works because of low or no humidity but down south here, thats a no go zone....
In my UK kitchen flat the old Victorian fire had been crudely pulled out, leaving badly plastered, half destroyed lath and plaster wall. Eleven feet ceilings, so as the full wall was to be covered in cabinets, I framed the whole thing then ran three foot high drywall length ways with eight foot vertical above. Butt joints were below worktop height and only four vertical joints which came out pretty well after watching lots of videos! The new framing also gave me good fixing points for 32 base and wall units.
Now psyching myself up for the bath removal and shower installation. ........
The look when he does the "but if you do it horizontal" was priceless!! Just busted up laughing. Thank you!!
Southern US it's all sheetrock and all vertical. Usually the same person does framing and sheetrock.
I definitely carried 13 sheets of 14 footers (with help) down a basement bulkhead 2 weeks ago. It was a royal pita, but it eliminated all but one butt seam.
Im not a carpenter and had zero experience wall framing or hanging drywall. I managed to hang 16 sheets of drywall vertically in a new basement room by watching this guy and other TH-cam videos. I didn’t have any problems hanging vertically because i was extremely meticulous with the framing. I only had two boards that were warped enough to cause problems…. And i solved both by just fixing extra 2x4s together with deck screws. Cost me $8. Cheaper than a sheet of plywood and no cutting involved.
I would fail horribly as a commercial drywaller because of the silly amount of time it took me to build one room. But very pleased with the results
well done!
Hey Jeff. I love your videos. I like the way you explained how difficult this can be. My son does all of his drywall vertically all the time. He does it with such ease. Thank you for your videos
I've done a lot of vertical drywall installation and though it can be annoying if the framing isn't perfect, I'd still never use strapping. Trying to mount anything to the wall later would be impossible unless it happened to perfect line up with one of the straps.
And the "issue" with hanging vertically still applies to horizontal too - if the stud isn't quite in the right place, you end up needing to shave some off the edge of the drywall, whether it's horizontal or vertical. Sure, it's a longer edge with vertical, but I dunno. I find the mudding to be so much faster with only the long joints to do, that it more than makes up for a little extra time getting things lined up.
Couldn't you plan if you know you're going to hang cabinets or something? Or measure the strapping properly so you can screw through the strapping and the stud? That should be even stronger because you could use 1/2" longer screw?
How about just adding a sister stud vertically in the odd place where your sheets don't land on a stud perfectly
I've had to do that in our old house. 👍
I did that in my basement, it was a workshop, didn't needed to be a top notch finish and it was my "learning drywall and plastering" phase. Mind you a stud was running a couple of bucks back then, they are $6 a piece now.
I get a kick out of these comments on just do it vertical, there are a few problems that you have to get past. one is wall board on concrete is a no-no so standing is only good for other floor types. two.. Wallboard jacks tend to break wallboard at the but ends go figure... personally I plan to use vertical in my own house but that will have adhesive as well.
-MG
I'm in the proces of redoing my daughter basement, here is how i did it.
Firts, i tear down everything. Walls, floor, ceilling. By doing so, it exposed the spaghetti factory hiden under the ceilling...The isolation was from another era, there's nothing i could do to improved it. So, i put a 2" isofoild rigid board on the foundation, from the floor all the way up between the rim joist, using a spray foam to fill the bigger gap and tape between each board. Already there, it make a huge difference on the humidity and heat. Then, i used 1x3 forence, screw it through the foamboard on the foundation with tapcon horizontaly, every 20" till 8 feet. Then install another section of 1x3 verticaly every 16". By doing that, it create a gap to feed all the electrical, and allow to use regular electric box. 16 inches give you a good 2 1/2 wide to screw the drywall. I installed all my drywall verticaly (8 feet) , since i will install a hang ceilling at 8 feet, the drywall is 1 1/2 " from the floor, it leave me just anough space to screw the L contour for the ceilling. This method is much cheaper than using 2x4 structure, the price of wood is nut!! And the R value is excellent. No but joint neather with tha method..Also 8 feet drywall is cheaper than 10 feet, 1x3 cost almost nothing ( less than 1$ each) , 2 inches Isofoild about 38$ each (4×8). Hope this gives ideas to other diy guys.
Ecuse me me for my bad english, not my first language..
I did my entire house drywall vertical but i did it directly to the studs. The house is from 1930 and it was a nightmare, every new vertical joint got its own new stud since nothing was in the right place for it.
I've only ever seen drywall installed vertically here in the UK
Yep. 8ft ceilings and 8ft plasterboard sheets. Studwork always has noggings, so they don't wander all over the place. Easy and quick (with no strapping).
common in commercial applications too, higher wall sizes plus metal stud tracks.
Like Andrew said . Commercial jobs mostly 9ft ceilings, ten ft ,take a ft off and vertical hang.
Come on, Jeff. Your content is usually spot on, but this "extra work" is way over dramatized.
You can tape the entire joint top to bottom for the entire length of the wall by setting up a walking platform. It doesn't have to be complicated. Just a 2x10 or 2x12 and some upside down empty mud buckets, or right side up full ones. Or for about the price of that plywood, one can get a couple of work platforms. Or make a plank with 2x4's on edge and a plywood top and bottom.
It's a dandy way to do the ceilings too. Besides, if one can't mud a vertical joint without having humps in the joint, how would one fair better on the ceiling?
If your studs are laid out correctly the joints should fall on the studs well enough. If not just tap it over. For a really bad stud just add a scab. No horizontal pieces necessary. Gypsum doesn't care which way the lumber runs. The screws aren't going to pop one way or the other so long as they aren't over driven.
In the 80's we hung it horizontal, and once we started going vertical I've wondered why the hell we ever did it that way.
Wood studs are rarely straight. Hanging horizontally gives a flatter wall when the studs are bowed. When it is really bad, you still need to shim or straighten, but it is less critical than when vertical.
Shear panels are usually hung vertically with adjacent panels both hitting the same stud including the recommended gap between panels.
Keep it coming. I love it all.
In UK we do vertical frame and dry boards. Even better our houses generally have 8ft / 2.4m high ceilings. Just run an extra stick at joint points. Also fit noggins between the verticals at 4 ft / 1.2 m spacing.
Thanks Jeff for a great video. Hi to Matt and Michelle as well.
Thanks 👍Cheers Larry!
I did my entire home that way. I never did drywal before and it just made sense I guess? Glad to see I am not crazy or anything haha.
I did my basement that way, and the inspector asked "why did you hang it that way, most people hang it horizontally". I told him it was to avoid butt joints. His response was "but most people hang it horizontally". "Why?" Ivasked. "That's what most people do" Yeesh. The comments in these kinds of videos are always the same. A bunch of contractors arguing with each other, bragging about their years in the business, calling each other hacks, but rarely providing the rationale behind their approach and rarely saying why the other way is wrong....just saying it's wrong. And if they contractor in the video does a careful job, they make fun of him for taking too long!
this is not a standard way of prepping a studded wall in the UK, Nogging out the frame centrally then screwing fixing the plaster board. never seen this method...
Been putting up drywall vertically for over 10 year, never had a issue with it! From the first 2x4 to the second, measure 60cm, (CenterCenter60) CC60, and continue to the end of the wall! The extra horizontal 2x4 are not needed at all!
Thanks for adding those notes about Steel studs - my residential condo here in Pompano has steel studs with support beams that run in the ceiling
I ended up going vertical on our main floor because we have 9' ceilings throughout and didn't have any issues with my studs not being plumb enough to screw my boards on without the need for any strapping. Just finished drywalling our second floor as well and went vertical where I could to eliminate butt joints where possible
The code for where I live is screws every 6" on the parameter and every 12" in the field, (on 16" studs), I don't see how you can do that with your method, (unless you ran a firing strip every 6"). An option is trim the sheet on each side if necessary for it to land on a stud. You will still have a taper joint, just not as deep. You can easily sister a stud to get some backing for a screw.
$8 right there.
It is the norm in the UK to hang plasterbaord vertically. The joys of how different countries do things.
You can for sure use vertical on wooden framing, just building the framing takes a little bit more planning and effort. In Estonia we only hang drywall vertically
you must have nice 2x4's to work with. Cheers! In Canada our lumber is garbage now!
One more point not mentioned about vertical which we were taught, if not using a horizontal additional framing and directly into stud , if you bump the stud it will flex and crack the the joint, it’s similar ironically how he likes to use plywood instead of wood, by directional rotation you gain overall strength and integrity. Avoid vertical at all cost unless , which again ironically I saw the plywood , use 1/2 ply or strand board over entire wall then you got integrity, but cost goes way up.
If you're going to fill yhe corner with foam anyway you might as well start in the corner. You'll have to only make 1 cut not 2 for filling I'm both ends if you start in the middle.
You end up dealing with issues lining up drywall with renos pretty regularly. A lot of times screwing a few blocks of scrap to the side of an existing stud is magic to give some wiggle room. Can be a lot quicker and easier than strapping a whole room.
In my opinion, if the strips aren't 16" on center-ish horizontally the walls will be weaker, which could lead to cracks, especially with homeowners nailing or any pressure applied to one side or the other; not to mention the method and materials used to finish. I like the idea for vertical installation as it also applies to uneven ceilings, but with thicker strips to level out unevenness. However, screw distances should still match code (and marks on drywall) or the drywall folks get screwed with potential callbacks, won't do the work until framing is fixed, or have to correct framing issues their selves to be able to stand by their work. (not uncommon)
Love your videos and they have helped me out a lot. I have put drywall up in my entire basement. While it isn't perfect, it isn't bad at all. Thanks!!!
Glad to help
I work in commercial construction, where they use steel studs, and all the drywall is hung vertically and they rarely use strapping.
exactly. and they can move studs if not installed properly in seconds.
Easy way to get 8 & 12 foot drywall downstairs is by scoring back of drywall, crack the back, fold in half and haul to basement. Good side is not affected.
When I find myself with a drywall mess, Renovision comes to me
Whispering words of wisdom, let it be
When my mud is too thick,
and the tape all bubb-el-y
He says it's just drywall, let it be.
Let it be, let it be, let it be, let it be
Quick F-ing with it, let it be
In the UK is standard practice to hang it vertically, very rarely would you hang it horizontal. I've done it 2 or 3 times horizontal in my 16 year career
Strapping out walls means all electrical outlets have to be moved out to wall surface. Where drywall edge does not land on stud center just screw a 2x4 on the flat behind for entire length of joint. This will support entire length of joint maintaining alignment of both edges.
I installed the drywall vertical in my first house when I did the basement many years ago. I wish I had this video back then. In my experience it is not worth the effort to save a few butt joints. I have never done it since.
If yr cutting plaster board up against a wall with just a tape measure just put 2 off cut 4x2s behind it to bring it out a bit from the wall and yr cut will be easy - Builders trick
Hey Jeff, what about just adding an extra 2x4 (vertically) at each butt joint so you have another screw surface? Each vertical edge of drywall gets it's own 2x4
Unless the stud is bowed a bunch or so far off the plane that you can’t hit the stud all the way up, IMO not necessary.
The rest of the world just screws directly to the studs vertically when putting up dry wall, it stops cracking of joints and is standard practice in most places.
I do horizontal, and if the framing is off , I just do the "add a vertical 2x4" trick . If the height of wall is 8',then I just throw a 5 or 6' scrap 2x4 behind the butt joint
That's all I did, the rooms were 104in tall, so I bought 9ft drywall cut it to fit, some places I used a full 2x4 lumber vertically others I used off cuts everywhere I wanted drywall screws, there seemed to be way less taping / mudding etc quite quick to do and it's a very nice finish.
About that tape-measure drywall trick... I was having to rip a sheet of 5/8" drywall in the parking lot at Home Depot because our Jeep's hatch is
We hang drywall vertically here in the Uk it’s standard practice so there are no butt joints like he said
That doesn’t even include moving all the plugs out to match your new framing.
Just use butboard . Lay it horizontal...it locks more studs in and makes a stronger wall. The but board eliminates the floating of but joints...and never install drywall with an impact gun btw
We hang drywall vertical. Your right nothing is ever level especially the basement, great tips 👍
I did vertical drywall in my garage with the intention of not mudding or taping. Very easy to do even if the studs aren't 100% straight. Not sure I'd do this in the house though where a finished wall is expected.
I had to do my entire bathroom vertical. Actually worked out perfect because of the dimensions of the room.
well done Joshua!.
Vertical is standard here in Sweden. Sure, we also put plywood or Oriented Strand Boards before the drywall. It costs more. But is so much better. Easily sheet it with drywall after, and hang your stuff wherever you want, not worrying about studs.
Also, put goddamn conduit in for electric cables.... It looks so damn bad to hang cables freely inside walls, and you can't switch them out or add leads by doing it your way.
You put sheathing on all interior walls? That's brilliant.
I'm fortunate to live in an older house with plaster and wood lath behind so that makes hanging (light) stuff on the walls easy without having to worry about studs but plywood behind the walls? Genius.
@@toin9898 yes, most walls have OSB or plywood behind. and houses from the 50s -80s had wooden planks behind a porus paper sheath so you can hang whatever you want on those walls. i have that in my house. 1 inch planks covering all studs
What thickness osb and sheetrock?
@@joefratianni8693 11-15mm, like half an inch in freedom units. Most common is 13mm for both tho. So 26mm total
I thought about re-drywalling a Condo bedroom with MLV and 5/8 drywall. Then I realized that the little 45"x36" hall that right turns into a 32" long hallway entrance of the bedroom (side wall of closet) with 80" tall doors does not allow 8ft drywall to fit into the room at any angle. The only option is to rip down both sides of the wall and pass the drywall thru the studs or hang 48"x48" pieces.
I'm sorry I found this video funny, I didn't know Vertical wasn't the norm. 25-30 years ago this is how my dad taught me (I was in my teens), but he did always use Metal Studs so maybe that is why. I can remember when I was a kid and DIY cable shows start showing horizontal, I asked him why we didn't do that and he just said that 12' sheets are hard to manage by 1 person.
Thank you for your videos they are super helpful and help fill in gaps in my knowledge/memories, my dad is no longer with us so I'm not able to ask him anymore.
In Europe we install drywall always vertical. Took me some time to get used to horizontal drywall here in NA
If you add strapping did you just add issues with air flow over the insulation?
There are no differences if you lay it down or stand it up. If you say there's a problem catching the stud at the 4' seams points because the wood isn't straight. It's the same laying it down, only it's at the 8' point.
I always stand up my drywall, unless the ceiling is over 8' and then only so there's no narrow strip at the top or bottom.
Also, when you lay your drywall down there's a 14 1/4' none supported point between every stud on all of your seams.
I know no one is going to agree with me. All the pros say I'm wrong. I believe they do it laying down only to save on seams, time, and money.
I can't remember what brand it is. But one brand of drywall has an X showing where to place your screws. They are set for standing the drywall up.
I believe that is how drywall was designed to be used and changed by installers to save money.
Just like knock-down texture was started to save time in mudding and sanding. Not because it looks nice.
Also, putting 1/2'' strapping on the wall would change the thickness of the wall, and would take special order pre-hung doors at a minimum.
You are correct with the 4 ft to 8 ft argument! Either way is ... ok.
Traditionally, commercial drywall is vertical because yes, metal studs can be adjusted, easier to tape and most commercial have suspended ceilings too. No one cares about a commercial space, it is not their home and these units are often reconfiguring or someone else moves in. Residential ... you can put it vertically easily ... just frame very carefully every 8 feet!!! Truth of the matter is, that drywall is actually made stronger along its length than its width. Most like to see it hung horizontally in residential applications. Does the extra strength really matter? To each his own. Side note ... in theory, vertical is better, in residential, because joints fall on a common stud. Any movement and the joint "follows". Regardless, if you don't "paper tape", especially on horizontal seams, any combination of anything else will leave hairline cracks ... fact! In other words, don't use mesh "tape" regardless of what product you use to set it. Strength is in the paper.
I'm pretty sure it's only America that hangs drywall horizontally. Everywhere else does it vertically. (And we don't have problems with getting the framing right. Maybe because we use metric. ;o)
Drywall was designed to be hung vertically. Tapered edges on the long sides for taping/filling, no tapers on the short sides for skirting boards and crown molding to butt against.
I think its just easier to add an extra stud, or use cut offs, or if its a basement just flip the stud flat.
But now you have a gap between drywall and stud. So later when you screw a shelf or something else to the wall there is a risk of over tightening and cracking or dimpling the drywall. Also seems like this would be more likely to crack in general because it’s secured to flimsy strapping instead of solid studs. I’ll take the butt joints over this method.
Very informative video! I've always wondered what the cons and pros were of doing this. You should include not to screw the drywall down so tight that it crushes it to all your drywall videos. Because I've had multiple drywallers doing work lately and they all are crushing the hell out of the drywall lol. Seems so obvious that if you crush it, it loosens the whole structure but this concept seems to be lost on them. They even make drywall heads for your electric driver that automatically disengage when the drywalls crew is fully set. They never seem to use anything like this. Another thing from a home owners point of view I'm not a fan of strapping anything. The mice and all kinds of critters like to travel through the walls in the gaps that strapping leaves open between the stud and the wall. They can literally get anywhere they want to in the house through walls with strapping. Extremely rare but my whole house was built with 2x3 with scrapping on both sides of the wall covered with vertical tongue and groove boards as the finish wall. I've had snakes mice and all kinds of things walking thru these walls and it doesn't make for very good air sealing either. Since then I've removed all tongue and groove boards and strapping and I've installed drywall directly to the studs. All my issues with air infiltration dust and critters have been solved.
Those bits that "disengage" are not for pros. They are for Suzy home makers. And take care of you rodent problem first.
We have 6'6" walls in our basement and I do vertical. Just makes sense and it is easier. Never did the strapping. Seems like an unnecessary step IMHO
Yeah, that makes a lot of sense. The average person can reach up 6'6", so no ladder needed like what said. Also, using a full sheet horizontal and then cutting another 2'6" length would be super annoying, because you can't use the other half you just cut off, since it's now only 1'6".
same it’s just easier for us
6.5" walls are significantly less likely to have bowing issues with the studs tho. So there would be no need for strapping at that point. If you have a well framed wall, then no need for strapping either.
Awesome teacher clearly explain no loud music in the background 💯👍😉😎
When I worked with commercial drywall stuff as a late teen early 90s it was all vertical and metal frame. My only tools a drywall screw gun, a single shot .22 hammer, a putty knife. Was super duper easy, but I suppose variances in stud placement in homes and odd wall sizes of areas like basements make it more difficult
I just did my whole basement with drywall, all vertical, and not one problem. You don’t have to get every stud perfect, just the one at every 4’.
Lay out your wall so all the studs are on center. Then you won't have a problem. Carpentry should be laid out to precise measurements. They shouldn't be all over the place. If they're placed properly then the drywall fits. Every third stud is exactly 4 ft. The drywall is 4 ft wide. How could it not fit? If your vision is not good then drive two screws in the exact center of the stud. This might help you to position the first sheet. Or better yet, start in the corner.
Someone else did the framing? Some of the studs are not placed correctly? Then reposition them first.
That would be a lot more reasonable than furring out the entire wall. So if you're the type who likes to worry then measure all your studs and fix any that are not positioned correctly. Otherwise just start hanging the drywall. If you come across one that needs adjusted then do it as needed. Because when you place the sheet you'll see if it doesn't line up. Set the sheet to the side and replace the crooked stud with a quality piece of lumber that's not crooked.
Truth is I have never had a problem running drywall vertically. You have 1.5" so how would there ever be a problem getting your drywall to land on center? On some rare occasion I might have a stud that needs to be pushed. Studs are flexible. If they're laid out correctly the only time they would be off is if they're bowed. Then push it sideways and sink a screw. In other words screw off the rest of the sheet and save that line until after the drywall is secured so you can let go of it. Then push on the stud and sink a screw. Insulation is flexible. The insulation is not going to stop you from moving the stud a little bit.
Sometimes there might be a stud bowed outwards. Then you call the carpenter to fix that problem and work somewhere else until they can fix it. Or you fix it yourself. Replace it with a straight stud.
Why would you do all the extra work?
Professionals don't do this.
You can hang horizontal or vertical. In both cases, the studs are supposed to be 16 inches on center. This means a sheet of drywall hung vertically should fit perfectly. Unless you aren't cutting your drywall properly they should all fit. I've never had a problem. If someone is really horrible at cutting the drywall or they are not able to read a tape measure.
Just start in the corner. Be careful with your measurements. Now the next sheet just goes up tight against the first sheet. And if the studs are 16 inches apart then it will land on a stud perfectly. And the next sheet will land on a stud perfectly.
Personally, I don't really mind finishing butt joints, but I really liked using this method on a recent project of mine. The entire house had ceiling heights below eight feet, and I had to hang and finish all of it alone. At the end of the day it was sensible to avoid butt joints whenever possible, but primarily because boards are much harder to hang horizontally... especially when working alone. I liked it for the ease of hanging versus trying to save a finishing step or two.
If you have to hand horizontal just start from the bottom with blocks or wedges to keep it off the floor 10mm or 2 blocks on the studs if working from the top - its not that hard matey
Funny thing is I prefer horizontal because I find it easier to do
Use a stud spacer if you are hanging vertically
If it’s it’s a 20’ wall you will have the 20’ horizontal joint but still have 4 vertical butt joints right? 36’ of joints vs 32’ going vertical (4x8). Agree I like troweling horizontally better.
Great tip on plywood strips and expanding foam. Thanks.
Your videos are awesome. Thanks for your tips! Greetings from Toronto.
I have a basement subfloor question and need you to help me decide....
I can't make my mind up. I am either doing:
1) Basic: Delta FL dimple with vinyl plank directly on top, or
2) Cadillac: Delta FL / 1/2" XPS foam board / 5/8" plywood / vinyl plank
or
3) Rolls Royce: Delta FL / 1" XPS foam board / 5/8" plywood / vinyl plank
Not sure if it makes a difference on the floors. Also I am 6foot tall, so I don't want to decrease ceiling height if I can help it.
Maybe better to save the money with option 1 and then buy some nice area rugs.
love to hear your thoughts.
TIA
I will create a company producing drywall with tapered edge on all 4 sides, and become rich!
I used to make drywall. That just would not work. The drywall runs down a belt with tapers formed by plastic strips on the belt. A cutter perforates and cuts 3 x 8' boards after the plaster is set whole board is flipped on a turntable and sent back through a multi deck dryer, rollers flex the dry board and separate it at the perforations. Quite the process.
@@MadTrapper1 Obviously that needs a different process. That’s what we call “innovation”.
I used butt joints on horizontal boards. Butt joints = mid span. Floating strip 6" wide from a sheet of 3/4 ply with 2 x 1" strips of 1/8" ply on the edges. Suck the ends down into that dip. Now the butt joint is magically a shallow taper. Taping a cinch. Good if you have the lumber.
Doesn't not having full backing behind the joint cause more likelyhood of cracking at the joints?
Larry Rockey of Shelton Washington invented a devise for floating sheetrock joints! I've used his devise.
I always do verticals in basements with a drop ceiling only a few joints
Wouldn't the fact that drywall is sold in standard ceiling heights indicate that it's INTENDED to be mounted vertically?
You'd have thought so...
Hanging vertically all edges have solid wood backing, studs are either 16, or 24” on centre, bottom sill and top sill, drywall is 48 inches wide. I’d think hanging horizontally one would need to add strapping. I’ve never seen it hung horizontally on full sized walls in a house.
In Scandinavia and Germany vertical is the norm
No horizontal
The studs are either 48 x 73 or 48 x 98 mm
And the lumbers are adjusted it is called construction wood not bendt You even get them in 240 cm height if you want. That’s a normal Rom height here. So then you get minimal spillage
The studs are 60 cm apart Center to Center
And a drywall sheet is 240x 120 cm that’s 3 studs
Very simple
I’m baffled why would wouldn’t have suggested nailing blocking between studs because the standoff created by the plywood strips is a massive flex point for cracks to start.
Are you seriouslly now, we do vertikal in europe all the time and have no provlem
I've been surprised first time to see horizontal drywall installation in US,but later on I realized ,nobody cares about wall preparing quality or paint quality ones it finished. Nobody checks spackeling with light bars or 3 meters long aluminum plank,ones I checked wall with my torch light I was shocked with all bumps dents and butjoints.People here don't care about it,they just ok if wall is painted, clean and no visible damages.They are focusing more on enjoying life than perfect remodeling.
Is this ridiculously misspelled on purpose?
@@farikomike524sorry. didn't get your question.
@@farikomike524 guy's english is not his first language, if you understood the word then the spelling is secondary. Over here in "Europe" we speak many different languages.
@@andrewcarr2431 then I apologise 👍
I've seen some ridiculous DIY solutions before, but, this one don't take the cake, it burns it!!
Sir, what about homes built in the 1950's, where all those vertical wall joists are separated by a horizontal divide and the vertical joists don't line up? They originally used the vertical method of sheetrocking. Would strapping the walls ease the installation process?
Many thanks, you are the best!
I've been hanging and taping for 40 years! You just alienated more homeowners than you helped.
Seems like it would be easier to just add a couple extra 2x4 wall joists where you need them. I think it depends on the size of the project to see if it's worth it or not. If you're doing a big room, adding a bunch of 2x4's to the wall would get pricey. For me, I'm doing a few walls in a 500 sq/ft room, so it's not going to add much cost to the project to use some extra 2x4's. And I'll end up with a nicer finished product by eliminating butt joints.
The strapping idea with plywood is nice though. Especially if adding 2x4's isn't possible or practical.
When I was working as a labourer back when I was in the UK. They didn't care. It all got a full skim coat anyway. As long at it was properly fixed.
so easy, thank you for the idea. You're the best!
In Europe we always hang it vertical. Without extra pieces on top. Just frame it right and you'll never have problems...
Am I missing something here. Only one side of the drywall has the thinned edge so don’t you still need a butt joint for the other vertical side? Greatly appreciate anyone who can help me understand this? Thank you
Except prehung doors are manufactured with jambs the thickness of the stud plus two 1/2" sheets of drywall. Meaning if you have any doorways in the framing you will have to add jamb extensions, not to mention all the electrical boxes should be moved out the thickness of the strapping.