It's a huge strength to your videos that you are repetitive in your explanations and demonstrations. You do such a stellar job getting the most important information across.. Great job again JT and Matt.
@@gnowxilef 4:30 and on. When they took the measurements, they were translated onto the board incorrectly. The first measurement should have gone on the bottom, and the second on the top, which caused the board to be cut like \ instead of / which is how the width of the room is varying at that point of the install. When they put that piece on the drywall jack, the white will be facing down, and the long side needed to be on the left of the room (how we're viewing it), which would be the top of the board while cutting it on the ground.
Great video. I'm a do it yourself drywall expert. I'm not a professional drywaller but I have done a lot in my time in remodels and repairs. Everything you are showing in your video is on point and accurate for basically doing it alone and having a helper when you can find one. Matt is a perfect example of the helper being the cause of slowing things down. I can hardly wait to see your next video on mud and tape. Thanks for going through the trouble of educating the public.
I truly appreciate your tutorial videos. I have been doing framing, rough framing for bathroom door, insulation, wiring, flooring, wainscoting & NOW sheetrocking & your videos have been SOOO helpful. I'm a 1st timer and have been LOVING learning every step! My sincerest THANK YOU!❤❤😁😉👍
Rehab old houses are never plumb, level, or square and usually are always a nightmare. Just a couple friendly tips, use your roto-zip more. After lifting your sheet of drywall up put some screws in the top and use the roto-zip to cut the ends if they are too long. Also, use it to cut your doors, (and windows) out as well. On your doors and windows you will have to go in the opposite direction (clockwise) as your boxes, (counterclockwise) because your bit is on the opposite side of your work. Saves a lot of time and is more accurate. Keep up the good work. I enjoy your videos.
@29:47 - So many times I've had this moment while working with volunteers building theatre sets. I feel your pain, Jeff. I saw you two lifting that into place and immediately knew what Matt had done. HA!
wallHi Jeff !!...as a DIY'er...cars and home I think this is the BEST home show on TH-cam hands down...hopefully they will pick you up nationally in the States...you are way better than Bob Villa but you are a REAL contractor !!!... when I do recessed lights I've been using gravity instead of a measuring tape...drop a plum bob from the center of the can to the floor make a small mark and when the drywall is hung I know exactly where the center of the can is !!...measure once, cut once...LOL !!...getting my house ready for sale in the spring and deciding what I want to do with my kitchen cabinets...probably spray them instead of replacing them...looking forward to more GREAT videos !!
Perfect timing on this video as i will be hanging my drywall next weekend on my kitchen reno, Your channel has been an inspiration to proceed with thing's that seemed overwhelming just a few month's ago. I think my biggest challenge will be taping, gotta watch some more of your video's on that for sure. Thank's for all the time and effort that goes into making these video's, without them i could not afford to do the thing's i want to, now they are affordable because the labor is free now. To you and your crew THANK YOU.
Oh man when you mentioned it didnt need to be perfect, and then the first try hanging around the door. That was funny. I was LMAO. Man does stuff happen. I remember working with my dad as a kid. Oh that look. Love the video. Thanks!
This is hilarious literally just about to start installing some drywall with my wife !! Will show this to her right now so she has a better idea what we're about to do 😂
Sir I want to thank you for teaching us all you do, I'm a fan of yours and I have learned so much from you Your son must be proud of you, I know I would be Thank God for people like you because people like me would be lost without the knowledge you share with us God bless you
Jeff I'm 20 years old with a passion for computers and after watching hours and hours of your videos I'm literally getting a passion for this stuff I can't wait to get my hands dirty with small projects eventually leading onto big duty, I'm only a recent subscriber but I can't wait to become apart of the crew, I'm all the way over in Ireland and my names Derek, thanks for all your videos they're very entertaining and helps me it may sound crazy but it relaxes me watching your a-z videos
Thank you for your knowledge and sharing your secrets/tips. I learned alot from this video. Mainly that im using the wrong knife, cutting the drywall wrong and the most important hang all the drywall first then cut out all your holes. Thank you.
Before I start boarding my walls I go around the room and put a mark on the floor at the edge of the stud that every box is mounted to, with an X to indicated the side of the line the box is on, and the measurement of the center of the box from the floor... Way faster then measuring from another piece of drywall the height and width of where the box is located. 90% of the time switches and plugs are the same heights so it's really simple and quick... Put the drywall up. Put 1 screw in each corner then rotozip the boxes out.
When you said "this is going to be crazy " then proceeded to covert fractions.....is when I lost my mind in utter confusion😆 nvr could learn the ruler. After rewinding 10 times, I know how to sorta count back and get the right measurements.
Few things. Dont use that great Sharpie on the drywall. It will show through paint. Dont worry about a quarter inch in a corner. The taper can fill it and tape will cover it. (edit-spoke to soon) Also leave the dimple gun on, by locking the trigger. No need to use pinky. Lastly, I would have leveled and trued the ceiling by adding straight lumber to the sides of the joists all laser leveled for a flat ceiling.
Very talented and I learn a lot from you so if I may interject something here I noticed that you went from the floor up and you installed the sheetrock completely down to the floor I do remodeling for several hundred apartments and four different realators I start at the TOP of the wall and install the sheetrock DOWN and I leave a one inch gap before touching the floor because baseboard will cover that the reason that I do that is because plumbing fails I am right now this week dealing with two floods in apartments if you run the sheetrock to the floor it will wick up water into the sheet rock and create an unnecessary mess.I have to deal with that all of the time because people didn't know what they were doing like you said"This is not finish carpentry "Thank you for sharing much experience.
You should pull out the light switch and tilt it inside the box while the drywall goes in place. Then, reinstall the switch. This will keep the ears of the electrical device (switch or recepacle) on the surface of the drywall giving the device support and not having to use the cover plate to hold the device. Oh, also, be careful when using the router in the electrical boxes. You don't want to nick the wires. It happens. Great videos and great work!
Jeff, I see you wearing them New Balances 👀 I can think of one thing that would make this video just a little better.... Get you some New Balance 624's my dude. That is the epitome of Dad's teaching DIY tips and tricks 👌
I'm about to install decoupled walls and ceilings with 1/4" MLV on walls and 1/8 above, dual 5/8 drywall with green glue and extra wrapping on the duct work. Managing hot air, cold air, sound, fire safety and age of the house. You should do a video (if you haven't already) on how to line all this up with a ceiling made of 2" of resilient channel, mlv, drywall and geeen glue. I just realized my led pot lights don't have enough reach, so maybe suggestions on the type of light fixtures to use, and how to sound proof them!! thanks! Great videos, learning more every view.
Hi Jeff, what is the best way to install double sheetrock on the ceiling? 1/ 1x3, sheetrock, sheetrock? 2/ 1x3, sheetrock, 1x3, sheetrock? 3/ sheetrock, 1x3, sheetrock?
Use four trestle to place the drywall sheet on. One at the time. Cut a drywall in half or other board to use as a guide for cutting long cuts. Never ever cut on freehand. You start cutting the short cuts first. Get a drywall file, if you need to shape edges. Where i live we normal put special magnets in the outlets and after the wall is mounted we use outside magnet and then a hole cutter that goes over the magnets. This makes a hole perfectly to the box. We have round boxes. The drywall router looks good, but you can hit the wires? Perhaps put a pice of wood in the box?
Awesome video! What do you do with the door frame ? The drywall can actually go over the frame, the builder had a panel board as a wall so the drywall is thinker...
Do you have any videos were you use 8’ drywall or don’t pick a room or ceiling where one sheet covers it every time. I have a 12’ x 20 room. Can’t pay for a lift, or get help so I HAVE to use 8’. If love to see how you do a ceiling staggering the pcs
Great video. One thing regarding the marker. I believe in another video you said you need to use a special primer (oil-based) if you use a marker on drywall. If that's true it might be a good thing to mention. Lovin your videos man!
Hi there, I keep asking this question but I guess it wasn't in the most recent video. I need to make a straight clean cut on a cabinet box in order to get the refrigerator to slide further back into its space. Right now the fridge juts out about 10 inches but it could slide back further if the cabinet above it wasnt causing it to stop short when the fridge hinges hit the cabinet above.
They make 18 15 and 12 " cabinets for above fridges. I would suggest switching the box out since cutting it would not end in a nice finish. Cheers! other wise remove the box and use a table saw!
Enjoy the channel but I noticed the bottom panel rested on the floor. I do restoration following mold remediation and the protocol that's being used where I am ( SoCal) is to leave a half inch gap between the floor and panel so the drywall can't wick up moisture if there's a water leak.
The crookeder things are, the more you need a laser. A level doesn't work because of errors, and if you start out one place, by the time you get around the room, you run into a problem. With a laser, you can shoot a line around the room and see exactly where the high point is on the ceiling and measure 4' down from there. Adjust the laser down to that line and mark a line on the stud all around the room in case the laser gets moved. Mount the wallboard to the line starting in the middle of the walls. This will give you perfectly horizontal surface to measure to the ceiling from AND perfectly vertical joints to line up with the studs. You do the corners last because the walls lay in or out also, and you can measure the angle you need to cut the ends because the ends of the panels in the middle are perfectly vertical. I never did this with drywall, but I did when sheeting the inside of my detached garage with OSB. This method also means you can make cut-outs ahead of time that are dead-on and everything will fit. I left 1/8" clearance around electrical boxes and they all turned out to be almost exactly centered in the openings. In my garage, the OSB is about a 1/4" from the floor on one side, and almost to the top of the plate on the other to where I had to add some 2x4 a few places and toe nail a little on either side of that area. I used the laser some places too to split the difference on a not-so-vertical studs to know where to run the screws, but if too bad, you can always tip the laser. The laser is one MASSIVE time saver and the indoor house kind are very inexpensive. People won't be snapping lines indoors anymore once they have one of these, and they are more accurate as there is no bow in the line. Where the bottom ends up varying around the room doesn't matter because that ends up under the baseboard. My garage corners are all slide fit, (my inexpensive WEN 7 1/4" track saw with track was another incredible time saver) and horizontal and vertical seams you can't slide paper through the seam anywhere, so no moldings except at the floor. The other thing is to mount the bottoms of the electrical boxes 1/8" above the bottom pieces so the cutouts are only on the top and you know exactly where the nail plates on the studs are after the wallboard is installed so you don't try to screw or mount anything in that area. I did that for the bottoms of the windows as well.
I actually had to shim drywall in a couple places in my double wide. Original construction left ceiling tiles sandwiched between joists and wall, 2x3 construction, when I peeked inside the wall to see if building it out would have been easier...yah...I shimmed. 😂
Hi im in FL i have a block home and doing reno on a room that had mold and moisture problems. I am putting up drywall. My block is foam insulated. Should i add foam board insulation on the inside wall between firing strips before i put up drywall or will that cause more moisture issues?
Hey Jeff! No, this one also didn't talk about how to strap the ceiling! :( You always have it done before your videos. Next time you strap a ceiling please do it on screen!!
awesome! i am installed now and ready to tape and mud. When is the tape and mud video coming out? Also, do you plan on going over different types of mud and which to use and when? Thank you for the great content!
For the piece over the door couldn't you have just measured the width on the horizontal popped the pins on the door. Then you could have hung the piece up and cut the door opening with a saw using the frame as a guide to be a bit quicker, less chance of error?
Question from a new home renovator. Most newer impact drivers have the 1, 2, or 3 power setting on them, just like the DeWalt you typically use. What setting do you recommend when using the tool for driving drywall screws (into wood)?
Mike Lash slower is better for hanging drywall unless your using a specific tool made for it. You should really look into either the bit he showed or the gun he used. It really is difficult to sink screws into drywall the perfect depth without ripping through the paper. The paper on the front is all that’s really holding the sheets up. That’s why you need to go deep enough that you can mud over them but not go through. Also make sure to put screws No more than 8” apart on the edges and 12” in the center.
Hi Jeff, what do you prefer when installing drywall (on a wall) a little less than 8 feet)? Vertically so you never have any butt joint, or horizontally where you have only a single company joint roughly in the middle. Regardless of the furring strips.
I tried one of those adjustable drywall bits and it just kept coming loose and eventually the threads stripped from continually re-tightening it. I should have used the regular dry wall gun ! Fortunately I was only sheeting a very small 200 square ft room.
Do I need to put that piece of wood top of the joists? I've got only one piece of wood like that in the basement I was thinking about pulling it out and putting the dry wall right on the joists. Tip or suggestion? Thanks
Hey: Can you do one on temporary drywall installs with an air gap over existing drywall that's 100% removeable for us lowly renters? I Was thinking if I can make them in panels, then place next to eachother, use roxul to fill in among the studs and MLV, but leaving a good 1" air gap. Living next to other rooms, especially the kitchen = hell. I am looking at soft close pins from Blum that are great and cheaper than replacing hinges on the kitchen, but I cannot do anything about the over range microwave slam. Won't be able to buy a house for about 30-36 months so was thinking a few hundred dollars on removable panels I can take to other places I'd rent would be nice to have. Not sure if a curtain tension rod will hold the weight of moving blankets, so this would be my next option to explore.
Hi Jeff, these videos are great. Any chance you record a video on how type X and double drywall is installed? Also, the false ceiling with tracks would be very useful. I’m thinking to learn this trade and start my own drywall contacting company. Any advice regarding that? Thanks a lot in advance.
Why not glue the ceilings? didnt do it in our house 6 years and now all the screws are starting to pop even with 6 inch edge screws and 12 in centers for screws. the area we glued 10 years ago is still perfect
Wow, I might have to pay someone to drywall for me. looks daunting. and I hate math lol. Very nice high contrast tape measure you have there. very easy to see numbers! Where can I find that? I have never been a fan of the yellow tape black numbers.
I'd have shimmed the lower half wall of drywall off of the floor and brought the top of it to a laser level. Let the trim work cover the small gap at the bottom,which is going to be made smaller by your floor tile anyway. . With a gap at the bottom, you can slide the tile under the drywall and thus not have to be as fiddly about getting an accurate cut. You get 1/2 inch of "grace" to be oversize. . NOW you will be trimming drywall at top and bottom of most rooms since the ceilings are typically a couple of inches under 8 ft.
I am putting up sheetrock on the walls of our basement. Do you recommend that we hang them vertically as opposed to horizontally too avoid any butt joints? Keep up the great work...
It's a huge strength to your videos that you are repetitive in your explanations and demonstrations. You do such a stellar job getting the most important information across.. Great job again JT and Matt.
"Perfect every time, except when Matt takes the measurements and I cut the drywall." :D Thanks for leaving the goof up in the final video.
I have no idea how I missed this comment. But that was awesome. Cheers !!!!
As always, communication is key but as usual not easy 😂
timestamp please? did i miss him actually saying that sentence?
@@gnowxilef 4:30 and on. When they took the measurements, they were translated onto the board incorrectly. The first measurement should have gone on the bottom, and the second on the top, which caused the board to be cut like \ instead of / which is how the width of the room is varying at that point of the install. When they put that piece on the drywall jack, the white will be facing down, and the long side needed to be on the left of the room (how we're viewing it), which would be the top of the board while cutting it on the ground.
Very cool to leave that mistake in Jeff, a learning experience for us without even making the mistake, appreciate all your efforts
Great video. I'm a do it yourself drywall expert. I'm not a professional drywaller but I have done a lot in my time in remodels and repairs. Everything you are showing in your video is on point and accurate for basically doing it alone and having a helper when you can find one. Matt is a perfect example of the helper being the cause of slowing things down. I can hardly wait to see your next video on mud and tape. Thanks for going through the trouble of educating the public.
this channel is gold for beginners
This father son banter is on point. Just like the summer I spent working with my dad on job sites. “Where did you measure too?!”
21:23 was so smooth, it gave me confidence instantly.
I truly appreciate your tutorial videos. I have been doing framing, rough framing for bathroom door, insulation, wiring, flooring, wainscoting & NOW sheetrocking & your videos have been SOOO helpful. I'm a 1st timer and have been LOVING learning every step! My sincerest THANK YOU!❤❤😁😉👍
Rehab old houses are never plumb, level, or square and usually are always a nightmare. Just a couple friendly tips, use your roto-zip more. After lifting your sheet of drywall up put some screws in the top and use the roto-zip to cut the ends if they are too long. Also, use it to cut your doors, (and windows) out as well. On your doors and windows you will have to go in the opposite direction (clockwise) as your boxes, (counterclockwise) because your bit is on the opposite side of your work. Saves a lot of time and is more accurate.
Keep up the good work. I enjoy your videos.
@29:47 - So many times I've had this moment while working with volunteers building theatre sets. I feel your pain, Jeff. I saw you two lifting that into place and immediately knew what Matt had done. HA!
Your system is very efficient. Using it will avoid problems in finishing the joints. Safety is first with you. Smile as you go along.
Such a good father . Lucky son
great son. lucky father!
wallHi Jeff !!...as a DIY'er...cars and home I think this is the BEST home show on TH-cam hands down...hopefully they will pick you up nationally in the States...you are way better than Bob Villa but you are a REAL contractor !!!... when I do recessed lights I've been using gravity instead of a measuring tape...drop a plum bob from the center of the can to the floor make a small mark and when the drywall is hung I know exactly where the center of the can is !!...measure once, cut once...LOL !!...getting my house ready for sale in the spring and deciding what I want to do with my kitchen cabinets...probably spray them instead of replacing them...looking forward to more GREAT videos !!
Cheers Rob, Happy to have you joining in on our videos!
Perfect timing on this video as i will be hanging my drywall next weekend on my kitchen reno, Your channel has been an inspiration to proceed with thing's that seemed overwhelming just a few month's ago. I think my biggest challenge will be taping, gotta watch some more of your video's on that for sure. Thank's for all the time and effort that goes into making these video's, without them i could not afford to do the thing's i want to, now they are affordable because the labor is free now. To you and your crew THANK YOU.
that video comes out on Tuesday. Cheers!
Oh man when you mentioned it didnt need to be perfect, and then the first try hanging around the door. That was funny. I was LMAO. Man does stuff happen. I remember working with my dad as a kid. Oh that look. Love the video. Thanks!
Cheers John. real life happens on this channel for sure. !
This is hilarious literally just about to start installing some drywall with my wife !! Will show this to her right now so she has a better idea what we're about to do 😂
Cheers and best of success with the installation!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thanks it's quiet rocket & mass loaded vinyl & green glue.. picked up a lot of tips from your channel
Cheers! Happy to help!
Jeff and Matt measure twice cut once thanks for leaving the goof up in the final video
I am more of a cut twice kind of guy! Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY Great job you and Matt are doing so keep up the good work and keep the video's coming Thanks again
Glad I found this.
Sir
I want to thank you for teaching us all you do, I'm a fan of yours and I have learned so much from you
Your son must be proud of you, I know I would be
Thank God for people like you because people like me would be lost without the knowledge you share with us
God bless you
Your videos are ridiculously well done and to the point
seriously. great stuff
Hi Jeff, I have never seen installing drywall being so interesting, only you can make installing drywall fun to watch. great stuff.
Measure once cut twice ! Great video again ! The best channel and hosts " even mat :-) " i came across. Thanks
Cheers, right on!
Great video! One of the best I’ve seen. Good to see mistakes and tools used. Thank you.
Glad you put that mess up in there cause it let's us know it happens
SUBTRACT 1/8” on inside measurements! The best tip I’ve heard this year!
"You told me to cut to the edge of the stud".... "WRONG EDGE!!" Hahahaha!!!
This happened when I was a kid and then deja Vu with my kid every new project 🤣 still ROFL
The drywall screw gun also works very well for installing screws in subflooring without the worry of going in to far
29:10 classic conversation with a first year apprentice
“134-7/8 or something like that” lol I felt your pain Jeff
Always enjoy your videos. Great tips!
Just measure to the nearest "like, 7/8" or something like that." 🤣🤣
So much great info. Lucky me, I am in a metric measurement area, makes the measuring so much easier.
Your videos have helped me tremendously
Jeff I'm 20 years old with a passion for computers and after watching hours and hours of your videos I'm literally getting a passion for this stuff I can't wait to get my hands dirty with small projects eventually leading onto big duty, I'm only a recent subscriber but I can't wait to become apart of the crew, I'm all the way over in Ireland and my names Derek, thanks for all your videos they're very entertaining and helps me it may sound crazy but it relaxes me watching your a-z videos
Happy to help. Cheers!
@@HomeRenoVisionDIY thank you Jeff
@@SubdivisionAuto thanks for the reply I appreciate all you guys hard work that goes into making these videos.I'm glad I found this channel.
Thank you for your knowledge and sharing your secrets/tips. I learned alot from this video. Mainly that im using the wrong knife, cutting the drywall wrong and the most important hang all the drywall first then cut out all your holes. Thank you.
Before I start boarding my walls I go around the room and put a mark on the floor at the edge of the stud that every box is mounted to, with an X to indicated the side of the line the box is on, and the measurement of the center of the box from the floor... Way faster then measuring from another piece of drywall the height and width of where the box is located. 90% of the time switches and plugs are the same heights so it's really simple and quick...
Put the drywall up. Put 1 screw in each corner then rotozip the boxes out.
I usually use a straight edge or a chalk line when dealing with uneven angles with drywall... works great and it's cheap
“Goosfraba” loving the Anger Management reference just watched it again two nights ago!! Love ur videos reminds me of me and my dad
The anger sharks on swimming in my head again..YOU GOTTA DUNK THAT SHIT! YOU GOTTA DUNK THAT SHIT!
Your vids are my Saturday morning DIY TV show --- HGTV pick him up !!
Cheers to that Gordon!
Jeff, your videos awe awesome. Thank you.
When you said "this is going to be crazy " then proceeded to covert fractions.....is when I lost my mind in utter confusion😆 nvr could learn the ruler. After rewinding 10 times, I know how to sorta count back and get the right measurements.
Few things. Dont use that great Sharpie on the drywall. It will show through paint.
Dont worry about a quarter inch in a corner. The taper can fill it and tape will cover it.
(edit-spoke to soon) Also leave the dimple gun on, by locking the trigger. No need to use pinky.
Lastly, I would have leveled and trued the ceiling by adding straight lumber to the sides of the joists all laser leveled for a flat ceiling.
Fantastic video
Very talented and I learn a lot from you so if I may interject something here I noticed that you went from the floor up and you installed the sheetrock completely down to the floor I do remodeling for several hundred apartments and four different realators I start at the TOP of the wall and install the sheetrock DOWN and I leave a one inch gap before touching the floor because baseboard will cover that the reason that I do that is because plumbing fails I am right now this week dealing with two floods in apartments if you run the sheetrock to the floor it will wick up water into the sheet rock and create an unnecessary mess.I have to deal with that all of the time because people didn't know what they were doing like you said"This is not finish carpentry "Thank you for sharing much experience.
The depth adjustment on the gun can change especially on old houses the wood Density is different
Frank Turner not only that I take my cone off all the time.
Learned a lot thanks Jeff!
You should pull out the light switch and tilt it inside the box while the drywall goes in place. Then, reinstall the switch. This will keep the ears of the electrical device (switch or recepacle) on the surface of the drywall giving the device support and not having to use the cover plate to hold the device.
Oh, also, be careful when using the router in the electrical boxes. You don't want to nick the wires. It happens.
Great videos and great work!
Jeff, I see you wearing them New Balances 👀
I can think of one thing that would make this video just a little better.... Get you some New Balance 624's my dude. That is the epitome of Dad's teaching DIY tips and tricks 👌
You are amazing bro!!!
Hi jeff I've learned at lot from your videos
Very helpful indeed, thanks guys
I'm about to install decoupled walls and ceilings with 1/4" MLV on walls and 1/8 above, dual 5/8 drywall with green glue and extra wrapping on the duct work. Managing hot air, cold air, sound, fire safety and age of the house.
You should do a video (if you haven't already) on how to line all this up with a ceiling made of 2" of resilient channel, mlv, drywall and geeen glue. I just realized my led pot lights don't have enough reach, so maybe suggestions on the type of light fixtures to use, and how to sound proof them!!
thanks!
Great videos, learning more every view.
Hi Jeff,
what is the best way to install double sheetrock on the ceiling?
1/ 1x3, sheetrock, sheetrock?
2/ 1x3, sheetrock, 1x3, sheetrock?
3/ sheetrock, 1x3, sheetrock?
With the exterior walls insulation and vapor barrier pushes the drywall a bit so you have to reset your nose cone just for the first few screws
Great video
“That hockey stick action” lol
Use four trestle to place the drywall sheet on. One at the time.
Cut a drywall in half or other board to use as a guide for cutting long cuts. Never ever cut on freehand. You start cutting the short cuts first. Get a drywall file, if you need to shape edges. Where i live we normal put special magnets in the outlets and after the wall is mounted we use outside magnet and then a hole cutter that goes over the magnets. This makes a hole perfectly to the box.
We have round boxes. The drywall router looks good, but you can hit the wires? Perhaps put a pice of wood in the box?
Awesome video! What do you do with the door frame ? The drywall can actually go over the frame, the builder had a panel board as a wall so the drywall is thinker...
Do you have any videos were you use 8’ drywall or don’t pick a room or ceiling where one sheet covers it every time. I have a 12’ x 20 room. Can’t pay for a lift, or get help so I HAVE to use 8’. If love to see how you do a ceiling staggering the pcs
Hey man I couldn't find a video of yours and how to level walls for tiling specially when studs are completely uneven and unlevel
"Hockey stick action" lmao!!!!
Great video. One thing regarding the marker. I believe in another video you said you need to use a special primer (oil-based) if you use a marker on drywall. If that's true it might be a good thing to mention. Lovin your videos man!
great video
Sir I really get more experien from you. Helpen me a lot that's
Glad to hear that
Hi there, I keep asking this question but I guess it wasn't in the most recent video. I need to make a straight clean cut on a cabinet box in order to get the refrigerator to slide further back into its space. Right now the fridge juts out about 10 inches but it could slide back further if the cabinet above it wasnt causing it to stop short when the fridge hinges hit the cabinet above.
What's the best way to make a straight cut on a cabinet box that is already in place on the wall. Thanks!
They make 18 15 and 12 " cabinets for above fridges. I would suggest switching the box out since cutting it would not end in a nice finish. Cheers! other wise remove the box and use a table saw!
Enjoy the channel but I noticed the bottom panel rested on the floor.
I do restoration following mold remediation and the protocol that's being used where I am ( SoCal) is to leave a half inch gap between the floor and panel so the drywall can't wick up moisture if there's a water leak.
we ar4e on wood frame so no water wicking. good poinbt on slab on grade construction though!Cheers!
The crookeder things are, the more you need a laser. A level doesn't work because of errors, and if you start out one place, by the time you get around the room, you run into a problem. With a laser, you can shoot a line around the room and see exactly where the high point is on the ceiling and measure 4' down from there. Adjust the laser down to that line and mark a line on the stud all around the room in case the laser gets moved. Mount the wallboard to the line starting in the middle of the walls. This will give you perfectly horizontal surface to measure to the ceiling from AND perfectly vertical joints to line up with the studs. You do the corners last because the walls lay in or out also, and you can measure the angle you need to cut the ends because the ends of the panels in the middle are perfectly vertical. I never did this with drywall, but I did when sheeting the inside of my detached garage with OSB. This method also means you can make cut-outs ahead of time that are dead-on and everything will fit. I left 1/8" clearance around electrical boxes and they all turned out to be almost exactly centered in the openings. In my garage, the OSB is about a 1/4" from the floor on one side, and almost to the top of the plate on the other to where I had to add some 2x4 a few places and toe nail a little on either side of that area. I used the laser some places too to split the difference on a not-so-vertical studs to know where to run the screws, but if too bad, you can always tip the laser. The laser is one MASSIVE time saver and the indoor house kind are very inexpensive. People won't be snapping lines indoors anymore once they have one of these, and they are more accurate as there is no bow in the line. Where the bottom ends up varying around the room doesn't matter because that ends up under the baseboard. My garage corners are all slide fit, (my inexpensive WEN 7 1/4" track saw with track was another incredible time saver) and horizontal and vertical seams you can't slide paper through the seam anywhere, so no moldings except at the floor. The other thing is to mount the bottoms of the electrical boxes 1/8" above the bottom pieces so the cutouts are only on the top and you know exactly where the nail plates on the studs are after the wallboard is installed so you don't try to screw or mount anything in that area. I did that for the bottoms of the windows as well.
Measurements terms of measuring right to left left to right bottom up top down
Also.. for boxes on the ceiling and walls, you can mark them on the floor..
when did Canada stop using the metric system?
I actually had to shim drywall in a couple places in my double wide. Original construction left ceiling tiles sandwiched between joists and wall, 2x3 construction, when I peeked inside the wall to see if building it out would have been easier...yah...I shimmed. 😂
well done. sometimes you need to be creative. Cheers!
Hi im in FL i have a block home and doing reno on a room that had mold and moisture problems. I am putting up drywall. My block is foam insulated. Should i add foam board insulation on the inside wall between firing strips before i put up drywall or will that cause more moisture issues?
Hey Jeff! No, this one also didn't talk about how to strap the ceiling! :( You always have it done before your videos. Next time you strap a ceiling please do it on screen!!
That is a promise. Cheers Alexandrea!
awesome! i am installed now and ready to tape and mud. When is the tape and mud video coming out? Also, do you plan on going over different types of mud and which to use and when? Thank you for the great content!
Hi Jeff, the taping video is coming out on tuesday night at 8 pm EST. Cheers!
thanks for all the great videos. Do you have any suggestions for controlling fish eyes when mudding over a painted surface?
For the piece over the door couldn't you have just measured the width on the horizontal popped the pins on the door. Then you could have hung the piece up and cut the door opening with a saw using the frame as a guide to be a bit quicker, less chance of error?
Measure twice, cut once! Some people's kids! LMAO!
To check square you measure the diagonals
Question from a new home renovator. Most newer impact drivers have the 1, 2, or 3 power setting on them, just like the DeWalt you typically use. What setting do you recommend when using the tool for driving drywall screws (into wood)?
Mike Lash slower is better for hanging drywall unless your using a specific tool made for it. You should really look into either the bit he showed or the gun he used. It really is difficult to sink screws into drywall the perfect depth without ripping through the paper. The paper on the front is all that’s really holding the sheets up. That’s why you need to go deep enough that you can mud over them but not go through. Also make sure to put screws No more than 8” apart on the edges and 12” in the center.
Hi Jeff, what do you prefer when installing drywall (on a wall) a little less than 8 feet)? Vertically so you never have any butt joint, or horizontally where you have only a single company joint roughly in the middle. Regardless of the furring strips.
JEFF!!
RICCO!!!!!
Hi Jeff, I have a quick question. The wall studs are 16” and the drywall is 4’. How do we deal with this?
I tried one of those adjustable drywall bits and it just kept coming loose and eventually the threads stripped from continually re-tightening it. I should have used the regular dry wall gun ! Fortunately I was only sheeting a very small 200 square ft room.
Are you using an impact driver or hammer drill?
Do you leave gaps between your boards or push them flush? Thanks
Do I need to put that piece of wood top of the joists? I've got only one piece of wood like that in the basement I was thinking about pulling it out and putting the dry wall right on the joists. Tip or suggestion?
Thanks
Hello my friend, if my drywall came with the brown paper, do Instill need the put vapor barrier plastic?
where is that blasted comparison video!! you're driving me nuts!!! LOL
Hi is ok to use 3/8 regular Sheetrock to do a garage wall
Hey: Can you do one on temporary drywall installs with an air gap over existing drywall that's 100% removeable for us lowly renters? I Was thinking if I can make them in panels, then place next to eachother, use roxul to fill in among the studs and MLV, but leaving a good 1" air gap. Living next to other rooms, especially the kitchen = hell. I am looking at soft close pins from Blum that are great and cheaper than replacing hinges on the kitchen, but I cannot do anything about the over range microwave slam. Won't be able to buy a house for about 30-36 months so was thinking a few hundred dollars on removable panels I can take to other places I'd rent would be nice to have. Not sure if a curtain tension rod will hold the weight of moving blankets, so this would be my next option to explore.
What spacing do you use for the screws? Is it different for the ceiling from for the walls? Does it change for the thicker drywall?
I like to use 5 screws over the 4 ft of a sheet. If a screw penetrates the paper then I add another. Cheers Barbara!
If you can mark it like that you should be able to use your tape measure in your knife and rip it across the sheet
Hi Jeff, these videos are great. Any chance you record a video on how type X and double drywall is installed? Also, the false ceiling with tracks would be very useful. I’m thinking to learn this trade and start my own drywall contacting company. Any advice regarding that? Thanks a lot in advance.
Do the wall joints need to be staggered
Why not glue the ceilings? didnt do it in our house 6 years and now all the screws are starting to pop even with 6 inch edge screws and 12 in centers for screws. the area we glued 10 years ago is still perfect
What
we glue n screw all our board
Wow, I might have to pay someone to drywall for me. looks daunting. and I hate math lol. Very nice high contrast tape measure you have there. very easy to see numbers! Where can I find that? I have never been a fan of the yellow tape black numbers.
try looking into the crescent tools tape measures. the new line is awesome!
I'd have shimmed the lower half wall of drywall off of the floor and brought the top of it to a laser level.
Let the trim work cover the small gap at the bottom,which is going to be made smaller by your floor tile anyway.
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With a gap at the bottom, you can slide the tile under the drywall and thus not have to be as fiddly about getting an accurate cut. You get 1/2 inch of "grace" to be oversize.
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NOW you will be trimming drywall at top and bottom of most rooms since the ceilings are typically a couple of inches under 8 ft.
Do you leave a space between the floor and the drywall? I noticed you lay the drywall on the floor and screwed it in.
The electrical tape on the drywall screw gun. That bit will file down a bit over time and you'll want a click or 2 adjustment.
I am putting up sheetrock on the walls of our basement. Do you recommend that we hang them vertically as opposed to horizontally too avoid any butt joints? Keep up the great work...
that is a lot of extra work. I would rather deal with a couple butt joints any day!