Thank you so much for recommending our product! We're thrilled that you're enjoying it. If you have any questions or need further assistance, feel free to reach out. Thanks again!
Exactly what I needed, the clip retainers break so easily with even the normal amount of force needed to remove them. Thanks for the detailed walkthrough.
Cool. I know your struggle so I am glad you came across this video. There is another video in the description that basically talks about the same thing and may help you too. Good luck!
@@HiFiInsider Absolutely. So happy to help. Please read my "disclosure" comment in the comment section before you commit. Best of luck. Remember this, most components on cars do not require force to open, unlatch, unclip, what have you. So if you're forcing, reanalyze the component on how it functions and secures. Hope any of that helps you out.
One thing I haven't seen anyone mention is why they break. I found that mine broke during re-installation when I pushed the gray locking tab back down. Forcing the tab down breaks the bottom part of the clip and then it doesn't click in any more. The black part should've normally "sprung" back in but it doesn't, so it stays in the way of the gray one, and they overlap. Then pushing on the gray one, pushes on the black one and breaks it. The "fix" is to press the black clip "down", to it's locked position, out of the way of the gray one, before pushing the gray one down. Then the gray one will go back to it's locked position without any force. I was going to show that in a video, but not sure if anyone would watch it. That should've been ideally shown in the video about replacing the plugs.. unfortunately it wasn't for the Accent. One more thing I haven't seen anyone mention is that the clips you call "T" can crack but remain in there, although they won't hold the pins as good as they should, and won't make a very audible click. I found a way to release them without guessing, but if they're pushed up too far, they can crack. I tired 3 junk yard connectors and every single one cracked. The new one finally worked, and the pins made a nice CLICK when they went in.
*Disclosure: I took the Elantra to the dealership and they diagnosed the car with having a bad ignition coil harness, which is the entire electrical harness that connects to a bunch of things in the car. Its main connection is in the upper right hand of the engine bay. IF the factory cover is not there, which covers the main connection, then you'll see a rainbow of exposed electrical wires all feeding into one rectangle-shaped box in the upper right hand corner of the engine bay closer to the drivers side. Reason I bring this up is it is possible that these connectors in this video, although they do work, may still cause problems. It was not confirmed by the autotechnician if this was the problem with the harness; however, when the new harness was installed, the issues I had with the engine timing in terms of ignition coils firing went away. I am still dealing with excessive vibrations at only 750 rpms and below. The ignition coils were also replaced. I only agreed to have the dealer do it because it came with a one year warranty. I also noticed my gas mileage slightly restored back to levels I have tracked before the car started having problems. P.S. Had I not installed aftermarket ignition coils, then my 100,000 mile warranty may (again MAY) have applied to the ignition harness issue. So I say this: Install only the Hyundai OEM coils. The spark plugs stick to NKG Iridium whatever-it-is spark plugs it recommends. They are great.
@@JoseNavarro-wz9qq Genuine Parts -Hyundai KIA Ignition Coil Extension Wire Harness Genuine OEM 27350-2B000 Off Amazon and I ordered that harness at the time for $15.27. As for when I took my car to the dealership and they replaced the entire ignition coil harness, I do not know how much that cost but I know my wallet was crying for a good 2 to 3 months. You can see what I mean in my "Disclaimer" comment in the comment section.
@@Kitana68 It could be operator error. They look deceiving as one might think to push down on them as a way to release the clip. If its not that, then its the build quality. Heat and plastic don't do very well. As you may notice when changing the spark plugs on these, these clips need to be released and its not often they get exercised. It requires a lot of force in a horizontal direction for the grey tab to be pulled out to release. If too much force is applied, you'll smash your finger and possibly break that tab. Best thing to do is go slow and not yank up or down to avoid putting pressure in the wrong direction as it only clicks and opens horizontally. Then its best to grab the clip housing and pull from there. There are better clips out there. Hyundai decided to go with this style.
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Thank you so much for recommending our product! We're thrilled that you're enjoying it. If you have any questions or need further assistance, feel free to reach out. Thanks again!
Exactly what I needed, the clip retainers break so easily with even the normal amount of force needed to remove them. Thanks for the detailed walkthrough.
Cool. I know your struggle so I am glad you came across this video. There is another video in the description that basically talks about the same thing and may help you too. Good luck!
thank you for the video. I need to do mine. broke one. such a bad design.
@@HiFiInsider Absolutely. So happy to help. Please read my "disclosure" comment in the comment section before you commit. Best of luck. Remember this, most components on cars do not require force to open, unlatch, unclip, what have you. So if you're forcing, reanalyze the component on how it functions and secures. Hope any of that helps you out.
One thing I haven't seen anyone mention is why they break. I found that mine broke during re-installation when I pushed the gray locking tab back down. Forcing the tab down breaks the bottom part of the clip and then it doesn't click in any more. The black part should've normally "sprung" back in but it doesn't, so it stays in the way of the gray one, and they overlap. Then pushing on the gray one, pushes on the black one and breaks it. The "fix" is to press the black clip "down", to it's locked position, out of the way of the gray one, before pushing the gray one down. Then the gray one will go back to it's locked position without any force.
I was going to show that in a video, but not sure if anyone would watch it. That should've been ideally shown in the video about replacing the plugs.. unfortunately it wasn't for the Accent.
One more thing I haven't seen anyone mention is that the clips you call "T" can crack but remain in there, although they won't hold the pins as good as they should, and won't make a very audible click. I found a way to release them without guessing, but if they're pushed up too far, they can crack. I tired 3 junk yard connectors and every single one cracked. The new one finally worked, and the pins made a nice CLICK when they went in.
Thank you so much, I appreciate you man.
I hope this helps you out in your endeavors. Cheers and good luck! Remember, no need to force it.
I snapped the first 3 being very careful!
Yes be VERY careful. Its not about strength. Finesse. Basically, go slow. Slow is pro.
*Disclosure: I took the Elantra to the dealership and they diagnosed the car with having a bad ignition coil harness, which is the entire electrical harness that connects to a bunch of things in the car. Its main connection is in the upper right hand of the engine bay. IF the factory cover is not there, which covers the main connection, then you'll see a rainbow of exposed electrical wires all feeding into one rectangle-shaped box in the upper right hand corner of the engine bay closer to the drivers side.
Reason I bring this up is it is possible that these connectors in this video, although they do work, may still cause problems.
It was not confirmed by the autotechnician if this was the problem with the harness; however, when the new harness was installed, the issues I had with the engine timing in terms of ignition coils firing went away.
I am still dealing with excessive vibrations at only 750 rpms and below.
The ignition coils were also replaced. I only agreed to have the dealer do it because it came with a one year warranty.
I also noticed my gas mileage slightly restored back to levels I have tracked before the car started having problems.
P.S. Had I not installed aftermarket ignition coils, then my 100,000 mile warranty may (again MAY) have applied to the ignition harness issue. So I say this: Install only the Hyundai OEM coils. The spark plugs stick to NKG Iridium whatever-it-is spark plugs it recommends. They are great.
Where did you order the harness
@@JoseNavarro-wz9qq
Genuine Parts -Hyundai KIA Ignition Coil Extension Wire Harness Genuine OEM 27350-2B000
Off Amazon and I ordered that harness at the time for $15.27.
As for when I took my car to the dealership and they replaced the entire ignition coil harness, I do not know how much that cost but I know my wallet was crying for a good 2 to 3 months.
You can see what I mean in my "Disclaimer" comment in the comment section.
Whay they break so easily? Factory Part Quality or Heat Exposure...Why Man...... Why?
@@Kitana68 It could be operator error. They look deceiving as one might think to push down on them as a way to release the clip.
If its not that, then its the build quality. Heat and plastic don't do very well. As you may notice when changing the spark plugs on these, these clips need to be released and its not often they get exercised.
It requires a lot of force in a horizontal direction for the grey tab to be pulled out to release. If too much force is applied, you'll smash your finger and possibly break that tab. Best thing to do is go slow and not yank up or down to avoid putting pressure in the wrong direction as it only clicks and opens horizontally.
Then its best to grab the clip housing and pull from there. There are better clips out there. Hyundai decided to go with this style.