John this has been another kick ass show and tell. This is the highest quality content for anyone to be able to build with confidence. All of the extra care that you put into explaining the reasons everything is done the way it MUST be done. Thanks again John
Own a machine shop. Like Saws and high perf engines. With your help I've fully copied a couple of your builds. MS 400 And MS 661. Really appreciate your knowledge and dedication to guys like me
Between Your videos/knowledge and the cold winter days, I decided to cut up a new saw... lol. I purchased a cheap Chinese G660... I only ran a tank of VP premix through it and then cut the top of the cylinder off. Tomorrow I will machine the cylinder top true and interpolate the top for a chromoly compression sleeve. We machined the piston at an angle, perpendicular to the axis we set our angle @ 9*. We ended up removing .075" from the base and our numbers were set as follows, Intake opens @ 80*, Exhaust opens @ 100*, Uppers 123* for a Blow Down of 23*... I'm aiming for .019" to .022" squish. This shit should get interesting. Keep the videos coming man. I'm digging this shit!!!
looks great John, i've gotta say im really loving the process but ill leave the grinding to the pros (i.e. you). one more thing, the thousandths/degree depend on the stroke of the saw!
My 038 magnum 2 has that style of intake. Some forums online said to take it out. Ive never really ported a saw but i did open up the exhaust/intake and cleaned up the transfers.
Hey whatever works for you man.. I say do what you like and whatever is going to give you the best measurements... my calipers locks down solid too so make sure yours does the same thing but mine is a cheap nothing special calipers so I would imagine they all do... glad it helped tho my friend
@47:00 you're talking about how you don't go so wide on your exhaust port's exit-flange (I was happy to hear you specify that the whole exhaust tunnel, not just the inner port-shape, needs grindin'!), I will say this is an area I'm an outlier in and still can't find anyone to give me a good reason to change-- I go for "reverse megaphone" as hard as possible, as much as the material of the cylinder allows usually on a 660 for instance there'll be about a 1mm flat mating-flange around the perimeter of my exhaust port for my heat-shield/gasket to mate up to.... You seem to be saying "gotta be careful Re exhaust flanges, so we can stay in-bounds of the gaskets and muff-intake", I'd say we should flare the exhaust port as much as possible and adapt our muffler's gaskset & heat shield (same piece on my 660's, I make a large aluminum shield that's also the gasket, it's appropriately done and does not leak) so they fit our exhaust-flange!! IMO this is VERY important because, with chainsaws not having real mufflers that can actually do an acceptable job of sending back-pulses that we can tune, the best we can hope to achieve via mufflers isn't "open can Egan style, emulate a no-muffler scenario but yea keep it to 70% max opening" this seems silly when you have room for 2 'portions' of the muffler, for my 660's the rear half is sealed from atmosphere and the 'megaphone' opens nicely into it, does a 'cyclone' and the excess gas goes to the front half, then escapes (through an Egan--type faceplate covering) Sorry to digress Re scavenging at the point right-beyond the flange, but yeah for exhaust-flanges we should realize our biggest goal is to expel exhaust gas ASAP so we can equalize pressure back to zero, which is "true blowdown", when the transfers are not under-pressure from a still-evacuating exhaust (I know part-of the exhaust is swept-out by incoming transfer charge, of course, but the pressure is very high during the sealed portion of the power-stroke, we look at blowdown ONLY as exhaust-til-transfer timing, but if your exhaust "finishes" earlier (because it's wider, or because it's port is a big megaphone funnel) then you could get away with a shorter blowdown degree-timing while achieving *identical* clearance for your incoming charge (IE no pressure trying to force exhaust gas down your transfers ;P )
I think you are over-thinking it... do you build saws? I'm just asking... not trying to be an ass honestly... to me it sounds like you are a forum guy and been brainwashed into thinking this stuff is so hard and only these "OPE" experts csn do it... i have built thousands of saws... yes literally thousands my man... I have been around and I will put my builds up against ANYONES... and im telling you that It comes down to very basic principles... I have been into case compression angles and port velocity ratios... mathematically determining upper transfer angles and staggering... tampering with exhaust ports until I was so ridiculously balls deep into being a saw nerd as it gets... and for what? Not a damn thing... then I realized they only get so good... it true... the sooner I realized it the better off I was... nobody builds saws that are twice as good as everyone else's and that's just the reality of it... until then it comes down to just enjoying the job and the saws... treating each other with respect and stopping all these ridiculous arguments ... thats what I am here for... I ain't trying to prove myself and I never say my saws are anything special... but I would go head to head with anyone in confidence because my ideal race is one season in the hands of a smoke jumper or hotshot battling wildfires... at the end of the season we see who's cut more board feet 😉
@@fabzacres-blackcat so, adding a bark box alone would help, not cure but help. Appreciate that. One day I may attempt to port one of my saws but that's probably outside my ability level for now
@@fabzacres-blackcat noise is definitely a factor I was overlooking. Ill look into the dual port. Thanks for helping make a rain day productive, at least educational
@@fabzacres-blackcat I'm a big fan of ppe, especially ears. 119 is substantial! I'm usually the guy still wearing a helmet and muffs on the truck ride home
When getting the porting numbers, I use "Feeler-Gauges" when I know the number I want. Set the Calipers according with the Feeler-gauges, no guessing/fumbling trying to set the calipers free hand.
It is all relative my man... some situations I run close to 30 BD and some I run 20... it really depends on how they are using it and where your intake lands... I don't want to go into that on this video series I am trying to show everyone its not that complicated but you guys are so trained into over thinking it... these other forum and TH-cam builders have you guys so fooled... this shit is easy man.. I can port a cylinder and make it better without a degree wheel no joke just by looking where the piston skirt on the intake lands and the rings at the exhaust... its not as complicated as they say... they want you believing you can't do it yourself
Thats the earlier version... they are much better saws now all around actually... better electronics and cylinder even... the captive bar nuts are just a bonus
Just make sure you aren't getting into any rings that have a locating pin near the intake... the 661 has the lower ring locating pin on the exhaust side... the 660 is on the intake side I believe so make sure you mark at BDC and check that... you will still be able to go to that straight line tho and not have issues... I lung 660s also so I know it helps
Dude love the video on porting and tuning the saw... and you're innovative about the machining the head love it... but all bullshit aside I have a build I'd love to hire you for you have the skills to make it work thank you please put a link or something I don't have instacrack or fakebook
What can you do with a old 044 just bought one that needs a top end and am lost in the options and don’t know weather I should just build it back to still spec or mod it
What size honing brush an grit do you use for the 200t's. The cylinder is 40mm. I seen you use it on Jacob Roger's 200t. Thanks your channel is awesome brother.
Tbh buddy, this makes me wanna work on my own stuff. And that thought scares the shit outta me. Maybe I'll start with two saws I don't care about and work my way up? Mind if I email for some info on specs when I get em?
Get ya one of those farmtec 660s for 250 bucks and tinker on that head bc it’s all interchangeable with oem stihl parts but it’s a China made 660 bc stills patents ran out so anybody can build em now atleast the older ones 660 460 and such but for a saw to tinker with and if ya trash it it was only 250 bucks and you get experience building a saw ground up
I'm trying to teach myself to new TH-cam videos and practice before ahead of time and sometimes I still say the wrong things or say it backwards so I get what you're saying!
Yeah its harder than people think to try to explain what is going on... even tho I know in my head what I am trying to say it doesn't always come out right 🤦♂️
DUDE great job on that piston, thanks for showing!! What would you say if you saw a piston that, instead of 5g off of that 100g, instead of mine ending up around 95g (or 94g even, like yours here), what if I told you I shaved so much off mine that it was coming in at 87g? So, 2.5X as much material removed? Bottom "legs" under the windows measuring 0.175", pretty comparable thickness and height they're basically 'rounded', I go for both flow and weight-reduction when doing this but just unsure how far I can push it, the "probably mid-80 grams" piston is about to be put into use or rather "break-in" first but assembly will be done today so the Moto will be ready tomorrow, am gonna run it pretty gentle until I find whether I've gone wayyy overboard on my piston-porting or not (have done some heavily-ported pistons but never something this aggressive, if you enlarged your windows by 15% then I enlarged mine by 40%+, for context/comparison!) Did you know Wiseco actually makes a 660/661 piston? Unsure which of the two (they're not interchangeable are they??) but think it's ~$100 on ebay, looks slick has molbydnm coated skirts, though NWP also sells moly-coated 56mm slugs for $10, shipped, so think I'll hold back on the Wiseco for now (I have a 54mm, adn 56mm, 660 clones right now, one is still 54mm at this moment!) Thanks again for putting out this 'real' content like "how to" instead of just "look at this boss-saw that I have" lol ;D
Oh you say how others "miss it"(the piston) when porting.....Tell me about it!! I got a 660 from a highly respected builder from a forum I frequent, it hung a ring very quickly/immediately so I rebuit the top-end but, in inspecting their work, I was taken aback to find they did not touch the piston *at all*, didn't touch the crankcase, didn't touch the lowers...exhaust port was ONLY touched insofar as a slight chamfer otherwise it was left alone. Only serious interventions I can note are that it was dropped deck & band (50thou off base in total, unsure how much off band...24thou squish in end), and some beautiful upper-transfer work, but yeah just like so many other areas I think the piston is overlooked at the tuner's disadvantage, and honestly pistons are probably one of the most significant areas (I'd say that intake boxes are a high contender here too though, they're often nearly as-choked as an OEM muffler, am eager to see how people respond to my "custom airboxes" where I'm basically cutting big holes into the plastic, lining them with filter-paper, also lining OEM holes to the airbox with this paper, it lets me get more, cleaner air!)
Hi my name is Ronnie I bought a very clean Stihl 661and I want to put a new crank bearings and cylinder in it but I can't find where to find them complete set can you send me a link thank you
84 on intake seems to be a damn lot of fuel comin thru .019 of squish in a 90 cc also seems pretty insane, it can be so tight because of the squish band being reshaped?
@@johnscustomsaws pls don't be mad at me i'm just a 19 yo guy who's tryna understand something about 2 stroke from the other side of the ocean😔 I just wanted to know why this "rule" of 160 was so much all around and why eventually it's BS
@@alessandromonizza8283 yea I'm 25 and started researching saw porting a year ago I have mildly ported one saw thay maybe makes more power than original xd even ironhorse who is a reputable builder follow these rules and brisco has a completely different mentality. Many of you get good results but tbh you are all just pissing in the wind as I see it, nobody really knows anything because nobody does simulations other than 2strokestuffing. Don't get me wrong though you make awesome saws no doubt about it
@@thomaslindroos1667 yeah i know him he's struggling with that "most powerful 2 stroke ever"😂 anyway dude I think that for the field of application of a saw engine these guys know almost everything that is needed to be known to build awesome stuff, things like resonance and racing design are for some other kinds of 2stroke, these saws must cut in the dirt for thousands of hours and i can see from dyno joe mods' videos that a good porting work makes awesome improvements.
that background blanket needs to go, your a guy in a garage for Christ sake!!! the video series gives people something to look forward to, ie keep them coming back for more.
I only put it up so you guys could see the degree wheel and cutaway better... trust me I ain't trying to hide a mess or anything like that.. I took it down as soon as the video was done
@@johnscustomsaws walker saw shop just got a pallet of 500i's and they ship to the usa!!! they are expensive but hey a 500i is a 500i right. they will even port the suckers 4 u 2!!!!
FYI/Random but Re the "dye on the starter rope", IME it's totally fine, I did my cs590 and my 2511t both using RIT's Dye More (sapphire blue on echo's orange makes an awesome plum/purple, all my echo's are 2-toned with plum, either 2-toned or faded, you can fade these dyes easily if you setup a fan so there's no fixed water-level, will have a vid of my 2511t up in coming days it will show what I mean Re fading (though I did my 355t with a similar "orange to purple" fade across the clutch cover//muff covering, at >1yr of FL sun the RIT purple looks as-sharp as the echo orange does, IE both have fade but neither "fared better" in the crazy UV here in FL (especially for residential climbers like myself who are very often just w/o much, or any, shade at all for most of our days! The concept of safety-and-PPE becomes an interesting one when it's >95deg and >110deg with 'heat index'!! Do keep a helmet on at all times, at bare minimum, no matter what though, wanna be clear there!!)
Sorry just seen this message... I really can't take on anymore builds... if you want a crazy 500i however... shoot me an email johnscustomsaws@gmail.com I am looking to do a few more 500 hybrids for the right person and situation... I have been testing myself but I just dont have the time to really put it thru a true test
Hold on a sec now trigonometry man, there is no one degree is 11 or 12 thou, that is completely dependant on where in the cycle we are. At the top and bottom you can probably move it 2 degrees and its not even one thou but as the crank is "sideways" or at 90atdc one degree will have the biggest distance number. But you are doing so many of the same saw that this might make sense to do it this way even though the math is flawed. Because you get repeatability and it absolutely works
Its too damn confusing for a simple dude like me if I am honest... I tried measuring at the top of the cycle and the bottom etc... I come out so ridiculously close to 120 thow that it is closer to 12 thow than 11 or 13... so I guess thats why I do it that way... by all means anyone smarter should definitely go beyond what I am doing but my head hurts just reading your comment lol
After decades of testing by the successful race and research department of BRP, their testing has shown port polishing is only beneficial to the top portion of exhaust ports as a means to negate the affects of carbon deposits.
Man I have tried the auto-focus on and off... tried setting to manual focus... hell I have even tried with the front facing camera but that camera is terrible... I just need a new damn phone especially if I am gonna make a run at this TH-cam thing... I had a new phone was a done deal and then realized I hated It lol so now I am back to pulling my hair out... at least I figured how to get rid of the stupid borders lol
John I messaged him told him issue your having. So hopefully we can get in contact with each other. And help get you straighten out. And like I said he a wiz at editing and all this camera and computer stuff. Plus if you have any future issues he can help out also. He might comment since I gave him your sight as well.
You could sand the same amount off the squish every time by indicating to the base while you are sanding. Set zero when you get to where you want on your first jug, then leave the indicator set up bring the rest down to zero. Then you will have the same squish to base dimension on every jug before you cut the base.
If I am cutting a decent amount off I actually do that... the domed piston is throwing everyone off you guys are over thinking it... every piston is the EXACT same measurement... so no matter how much I cut off the squish or base it doesn't matter... I never cut more than a few thow off the squish because I am only changing the angle not really removing material to be honest... I know because when I cut the base im within 3 or 4 thow every time... if I am doing a flat top piston u do measure how much I take off the squish and I use a different mandrel that has cutters and I actually cut the band then sand it clean
I understand .020 for squish , but there's no room for carbon hold up on the piston , average guys won't pay the price for expensive two stroke oils and fuels I port my saws and my sqish is around .026 and I'm fine with that , I paid a professional porter lots of money and the saw didn't last a year cuz no room for carbon buildup .
I agree... on a flat top piston run around .023-024... this is why I say its a different deal the way I build saws... I don't have a flat squish or flat top piston and you would have to see it to believe it but they literally don't build up carbon... and I stopped building saws for weekend warriors and firewood guys (no offense because that's what I am) but they don't run em enough or use proper fuel and then have issues... the saws I do now are for pros and they need the torque cuz they are packing in and want lightest saw possible to run biggest bar possible and they run good fuel 💯 best move i ever made was going for the pro accounts and its been a game changer... they dont mess around
You say this ain't no crazy operation yet you won't tell us how you do piston doming! Fail bro you contradict yourself! I use my piston to shape my dome!
Actually there's a formula to calculate the exact position of the piston at any given crankshaft angle with all the geometrical trickery taken into account. The link to the formula (and some more useful formulas): www.schweizer-fn.de/motor/kenndaten/kenndaten.php I did a little coding in matlab to plot a graph of the relation between crankshaft angle and piston position. If anyone is interested in a graph and/or a data set containing the piston position in regard to the crankshaft angle, feel free to ask me. I need only the engine's stroke and conrod length center-center. Piston speed as a function of crankshaft angle can also be provided. If you want the code, just let me know.
Hey dude i could do with a little matlab feshening up! haha but id gladly take the graph and dataset if you've layed it out alrd.. i could also just sit here in the garage and put in the numbers into the formula. But if you got it that would be nice. Its for a 064, .. dont think the conrod specs are availiable on the net. I might have to split it and get back to you!
F’n DUDES in Garages🤘 definitely! Nice work as always👍
You are a Hell of a smart talented dude in a garage, not just a shade tree mechanic in a garage!
John this has been another kick ass show and tell. This is the highest quality content for anyone to be able to build with confidence. All of the extra care that you put into explaining the reasons everything is done the way it MUST be done. Thanks again John
I’m new to the channel but not new to small engine repair I’m getting the itch to start building saws after watching all these vids it looks fun
Own a machine shop. Like Saws and high perf engines. With your help I've fully copied a couple of your builds. MS 400 And MS 661. Really appreciate your knowledge and dedication to guys like me
Love your attitude! Great work John!
Very professional work the builds are interesting
Having been here a while I almost feel like part of a special group that knows the secret of the sauce....and will guard it with my life🍻
SKOL
SKOAL my man... yes the sauce is where its at... dont know how I would get by without it 😉
I shall guard the sauce with life liberty and the pursuit of hotrod chainsaws 😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
Between Your videos/knowledge and the cold winter days, I decided to cut up a new saw... lol.
I purchased a cheap Chinese G660... I only ran a tank of VP premix through it and then cut the top of the cylinder off. Tomorrow I will machine the cylinder top true and interpolate the top for a chromoly compression sleeve. We machined the piston at an angle, perpendicular to the axis we set our angle @ 9*. We ended up removing .075" from the base and our numbers were set as follows, Intake opens @ 80*, Exhaust opens @ 100*, Uppers 123* for a Blow Down of 23*... I'm aiming for .019" to .022" squish. This shit should get interesting.
Keep the videos coming man. I'm digging this shit!!!
dude thats awesome... are you putting it on your channel i will have to check it out... i love it
@@johnscustomsawsI need one saw how much and how I get a hold of you?
Really enjoyed it mate.
I appreciate the time and effort that goes into making the content 👊
I’m gonna yeet and skeet on over to Wally world to pick up some of that polish on any isle!🤣🤣 Awesome! Great video as always!
looks great John, i've gotta say im really loving the process but ill leave the grinding to the pros (i.e. you). one more thing, the thousandths/degree depend on the stroke of the saw!
Good work sawrus very nice 👍
My 038 magnum 2 has that style of intake. Some forums online said to take it out. Ive never really ported a saw but i did open up the exhaust/intake and cleaned up the transfers.
Looking good, man!
Excellent content 👍🏻 Really helpful.
Wondering if you could test the intake port with a wind tunnel of sorts to see the effects of the polish and visually quantify certain methods
flow bench would do the trick,polish,???? one bang and its black,
Cool John.
I've been positioning the ring to make the porting marks with the degree wheel. I'm going to try it your way.
Hey whatever works for you man.. I say do what you like and whatever is going to give you the best measurements... my calipers locks down solid too so make sure yours does the same thing but mine is a cheap nothing special calipers so I would imagine they all do... glad it helped tho my friend
Greit content Fella!!!!!!!I gonna litt port Sachs dolmar 114 and 120.Hope will be ok!!!hava nice weekend
Great show nice work. We are all fellas in our boxes that’s right. !!! 🦾❤️🔥🧬
The secret sauce is amazing
@47:00 you're talking about how you don't go so wide on your exhaust port's exit-flange (I was happy to hear you specify that the whole exhaust tunnel, not just the inner port-shape, needs grindin'!), I will say this is an area I'm an outlier in and still can't find anyone to give me a good reason to change-- I go for "reverse megaphone" as hard as possible, as much as the material of the cylinder allows usually on a 660 for instance there'll be about a 1mm flat mating-flange around the perimeter of my exhaust port for my heat-shield/gasket to mate up to.... You seem to be saying "gotta be careful Re exhaust flanges, so we can stay in-bounds of the gaskets and muff-intake", I'd say we should flare the exhaust port as much as possible and adapt our muffler's gaskset & heat shield (same piece on my 660's, I make a large aluminum shield that's also the gasket, it's appropriately done and does not leak) so they fit our exhaust-flange!! IMO this is VERY important because, with chainsaws not having real mufflers that can actually do an acceptable job of sending back-pulses that we can tune, the best we can hope to achieve via mufflers isn't "open can Egan style, emulate a no-muffler scenario but yea keep it to 70% max opening" this seems silly when you have room for 2 'portions' of the muffler, for my 660's the rear half is sealed from atmosphere and the 'megaphone' opens nicely into it, does a 'cyclone' and the excess gas goes to the front half, then escapes (through an Egan--type faceplate covering)
Sorry to digress Re scavenging at the point right-beyond the flange, but yeah for exhaust-flanges we should realize our biggest goal is to expel exhaust gas ASAP so we can equalize pressure back to zero, which is "true blowdown", when the transfers are not under-pressure from a still-evacuating exhaust (I know part-of the exhaust is swept-out by incoming transfer charge, of course, but the pressure is very high during the sealed portion of the power-stroke, we look at blowdown ONLY as exhaust-til-transfer timing, but if your exhaust "finishes" earlier (because it's wider, or because it's port is a big megaphone funnel) then you could get away with a shorter blowdown degree-timing while achieving *identical* clearance for your incoming charge (IE no pressure trying to force exhaust gas down your transfers ;P )
I think you are over-thinking it... do you build saws? I'm just asking... not trying to be an ass honestly... to me it sounds like you are a forum guy and been brainwashed into thinking this stuff is so hard and only these "OPE" experts csn do it... i have built thousands of saws... yes literally thousands my man... I have been around and I will put my builds up against ANYONES... and im telling you that It comes down to very basic principles... I have been into case compression angles and port velocity ratios... mathematically determining upper transfer angles and staggering... tampering with exhaust ports until I was so ridiculously balls deep into being a saw nerd as it gets... and for what? Not a damn thing... then I realized they only get so good... it true... the sooner I realized it the better off I was... nobody builds saws that are twice as good as everyone else's and that's just the reality of it... until then it comes down to just enjoying the job and the saws... treating each other with respect and stopping all these ridiculous arguments ... thats what I am here for... I ain't trying to prove myself and I never say my saws are anything special... but I would go head to head with anyone in confidence because my ideal race is one season in the hands of a smoke jumper or hotshot battling wildfires... at the end of the season we see who's cut more board feet 😉
The secret sauce is puree’d bananas, I knew it!
I've always thought my stock 660 was less than impressive and I'm starting to understand why, thanks John
@@fabzacres-blackcat so, adding a bark box alone would help, not cure but help. Appreciate that. One day I may attempt to port one of my saws but that's probably outside my ability level for now
@@fabzacres-blackcat noise is definitely a factor I was overlooking. Ill look into the dual port. Thanks for helping make a rain day productive, at least educational
@@fabzacres-blackcat I'm a big fan of ppe, especially ears. 119 is substantial! I'm usually the guy still wearing a helmet and muffs on the truck ride home
Perfect timing I was trying to find something to watch
When getting the porting numbers, I use "Feeler-Gauges" when I know the number I want. Set the Calipers according with the Feeler-gauges, no guessing/fumbling trying to set the calipers free hand.
LOVE
What is the advantage of raising your transfers? I was always under the impression that more blowdown is a good thing.
It is all relative my man... some situations I run close to 30 BD and some I run 20... it really depends on how they are using it and where your intake lands... I don't want to go into that on this video series I am trying to show everyone its not that complicated but you guys are so trained into over thinking it... these other forum and TH-cam builders have you guys so fooled... this shit is easy man.. I can port a cylinder and make it better without a degree wheel no joke just by looking where the piston skirt on the intake lands and the rings at the exhaust... its not as complicated as they say... they want you believing you can't do it yourself
Captive bar nuts on the full wrap version with the full size cover? I got a new 661 a year or so ago and it just has normal bar nuts.
Thats the earlier version... they are much better saws now all around actually... better electronics and cylinder even... the captive bar nuts are just a bonus
@@johnscustomsaws nice. I know My saw is the version 3 M-Tronic
Thank gosh, can’t figure out how to raise my intake , lets see what I learn
Just make sure you aren't getting into any rings that have a locating pin near the intake... the 661 has the lower ring locating pin on the exhaust side... the 660 is on the intake side I believe so make sure you mark at BDC and check that... you will still be able to go to that straight line tho and not have issues... I lung 660s also so I know it helps
Rocol cutting paste is Awsome for grinding tips and aluminium you have to apply it often thou
I use bees wax it helps from pluging up my bits
Hey so I know you did this a while ago but what do you charge for a 661 jug and piston combo
Man are you right when you said were just dudes in garages
Dude love the video on porting and tuning the saw... and you're innovative about the machining the head love it... but all bullshit aside I have a build I'd love to hire you for you have the skills to make it work thank you please put a link or something I don't have instacrack or fakebook
What can you do with a old 044 just bought one that needs a top end and am lost in the options and don’t know weather I should just build it back to still spec or mod it
Do you know how many horse motor that grinding head is? I’ve seen several different rated ones from 1/6 horse to 1/8. Thanks!! 🤟
Try looking for autofocus in the settings.
Is that what it is... thanks man
What size honing brush an grit do you use for the 200t's. The cylinder is 40mm. I seen you use it on Jacob Roger's 200t. Thanks your channel is awesome brother.
Tbh buddy, this makes me wanna work on my own stuff. And that thought scares the shit outta me. Maybe I'll start with two saws I don't care about and work my way up? Mind if I email for some info on specs when I get em?
Get ya one of those farmtec 660s for 250 bucks and tinker on that head bc it’s all interchangeable with oem stihl parts but it’s a China made 660 bc stills patents ran out so anybody can build em now atleast the older ones 660 460 and such but for a saw to tinker with and if ya trash it it was only 250 bucks and you get experience building a saw ground up
@@byerboys2607 solid idear
The fine burr bit is for Ferris metals the single edge is for non Ferris like aluminum they don’t build up like the fine burr does
it depends on the position of the crank, at TDC, and BDC, the piston doesn't move as far for each degree of rotation.
I'm trying to teach myself to new TH-cam videos and practice before ahead of time and sometimes I still say the wrong things or say it backwards so I get what you're saying!
Yeah its harder than people think to try to explain what is going on... even tho I know in my head what I am trying to say it doesn't always come out right 🤦♂️
DUDE great job on that piston, thanks for showing!! What would you say if you saw a piston that, instead of 5g off of that 100g, instead of mine ending up around 95g (or 94g even, like yours here), what if I told you I shaved so much off mine that it was coming in at 87g? So, 2.5X as much material removed? Bottom "legs" under the windows measuring 0.175", pretty comparable thickness and height they're basically 'rounded', I go for both flow and weight-reduction when doing this but just unsure how far I can push it, the "probably mid-80 grams" piston is about to be put into use or rather "break-in" first but assembly will be done today so the Moto will be ready tomorrow, am gonna run it pretty gentle until I find whether I've gone wayyy overboard on my piston-porting or not (have done some heavily-ported pistons but never something this aggressive, if you enlarged your windows by 15% then I enlarged mine by 40%+, for context/comparison!) Did you know Wiseco actually makes a 660/661 piston? Unsure which of the two (they're not interchangeable are they??) but think it's ~$100 on ebay, looks slick has molbydnm coated skirts, though NWP also sells moly-coated 56mm slugs for $10, shipped, so think I'll hold back on the Wiseco for now (I have a 54mm, adn 56mm, 660 clones right now, one is still 54mm at this moment!)
Thanks again for putting out this 'real' content like "how to" instead of just "look at this boss-saw that I have" lol ;D
Oh you say how others "miss it"(the piston) when porting.....Tell me about it!! I got a 660 from a highly respected builder from a forum I frequent, it hung a ring very quickly/immediately so I rebuit the top-end but, in inspecting their work, I was taken aback to find they did not touch the piston *at all*, didn't touch the crankcase, didn't touch the lowers...exhaust port was ONLY touched insofar as a slight chamfer otherwise it was left alone. Only serious interventions I can note are that it was dropped deck & band (50thou off base in total, unsure how much off band...24thou squish in end), and some beautiful upper-transfer work, but yeah just like so many other areas I think the piston is overlooked at the tuner's disadvantage, and honestly pistons are probably one of the most significant areas (I'd say that intake boxes are a high contender here too though, they're often nearly as-choked as an OEM muffler, am eager to see how people respond to my "custom airboxes" where I'm basically cutting big holes into the plastic, lining them with filter-paper, also lining OEM holes to the airbox with this paper, it lets me get more, cleaner air!)
Can you build mine too bro?
How would I get you to do my chainsaw? I’m looking to get mine done as well
How much? I want one. I'm a faller on the northcoast of BC Canada Need something with some jam
How can I contact you to send my power unit to you? Trying to look for a website but do not see a johns custom saws website.
I watched this vid and went straight to walmart. I'm still here 3 hours later and they wont tell me where the Sauce is. I'll keep lookin.
lol... its there... Wlamart has everything my man
Hi my name is Ronnie I bought a very clean Stihl 661and I want to put a new crank bearings and cylinder in it but I can't find where to find them complete set can you send me a link thank you
84 on intake seems to be a damn lot of fuel comin thru
.019 of squish in a 90 cc also seems pretty insane, it can be so tight because of the squish band being reshaped?
Yea 168 degrees of duration on intake seems much to me but I'm just getting in to the sport
@@johnscustomsaws pls don't be mad at me i'm just a 19 yo guy who's tryna understand something about 2 stroke from the other side of the ocean😔 I just wanted to know why this "rule" of 160 was so much all around and why eventually it's BS
@@alessandromonizza8283 yea I'm 25 and started researching saw porting a year ago I have mildly ported one saw thay maybe makes more power than original xd even ironhorse who is a reputable builder follow these rules and brisco has a completely different mentality. Many of you get good results but tbh you are all just pissing in the wind as I see it, nobody really knows anything because nobody does simulations other than 2strokestuffing. Don't get me wrong though you make awesome saws no doubt about it
@@thomaslindroos1667 yeah i know him he's struggling with that "most powerful 2 stroke ever"😂 anyway dude I think that for the field of application of a saw engine these guys know almost everything that is needed to be known to build awesome stuff, things like resonance and racing design are for some other kinds of 2stroke, these saws must cut in the dirt for thousands of hours and i can see from dyno joe mods' videos that a good porting work makes awesome improvements.
@@fabzacres-blackcat I have no clue if you are giving me shit or john or ironhorse xd who are we hating here? I want in on it
that background blanket needs to go, your a guy in a garage for Christ sake!!! the video series gives people something to look forward to, ie keep them coming back for more.
I only put it up so you guys could see the degree wheel and cutaway better... trust me I ain't trying to hide a mess or anything like that.. I took it down as soon as the video was done
@@johnscustomsaws yeah okay buddy, everyone knows how much you care about how everyone perceives you!!!! 🤣;)
@@johnscustomsaws walker saw shop just got a pallet of 500i's and they ship to the usa!!! they are expensive but hey a 500i is a 500i right. they will even port the suckers 4 u 2!!!!
FYI/Random but Re the "dye on the starter rope", IME it's totally fine, I did my cs590 and my 2511t both using RIT's Dye More (sapphire blue on echo's orange makes an awesome plum/purple, all my echo's are 2-toned with plum, either 2-toned or faded, you can fade these dyes easily if you setup a fan so there's no fixed water-level, will have a vid of my 2511t up in coming days it will show what I mean Re fading (though I did my 355t with a similar "orange to purple" fade across the clutch cover//muff covering, at >1yr of FL sun the RIT purple looks as-sharp as the echo orange does, IE both have fade but neither "fared better" in the crazy UV here in FL (especially for residential climbers like myself who are very often just w/o much, or any, shade at all for most of our days! The concept of safety-and-PPE becomes an interesting one when it's >95deg and >110deg with 'heat index'!! Do keep a helmet on at all times, at bare minimum, no matter what though, wanna be clear there!!)
I’m in need of a custom saw done by you. 500 maybe. Let’s do it. I know your busy but not in a hurry, I will pay!!!! $$$
Sorry just seen this message... I really can't take on anymore builds... if you want a crazy 500i however... shoot me an email johnscustomsaws@gmail.com
I am looking to do a few more 500 hybrids for the right person and situation... I have been testing myself but I just dont have the time to really put it thru a true test
I’m just a Cajun saw hack
only difference between you and me is you have nicer weather my man
@@johnscustomsaws lol when it’s hot here it’s not to favorable 😂
unless squish follows piston crown shape ,machining detromental.
Hold on a sec now trigonometry man, there is no one degree is 11 or 12 thou, that is completely dependant on where in the cycle we are. At the top and bottom you can probably move it 2 degrees and its not even one thou but as the crank is "sideways" or at 90atdc one degree will have the biggest distance number. But you are doing so many of the same saw that this might make sense to do it this way even though the math is flawed. Because you get repeatability and it absolutely works
Its too damn confusing for a simple dude like me if I am honest... I tried measuring at the top of the cycle and the bottom etc... I come out so ridiculously close to 120 thow that it is closer to 12 thow than 11 or 13... so I guess thats why I do it that way... by all means anyone smarter should definitely go beyond what I am doing but my head hurts just reading your comment lol
After decades of testing by the successful race and research department of BRP, their testing has shown port polishing is only beneficial to the top portion of exhaust ports as a means to negate the affects of carbon deposits.
Bro i need some contact info from you i want my saw done bye you
I beat you....I'm a dude on a tailgate rebuilding all my old 660's.
lol... nothing but respecr for that 💯
John get with Nickpixle . If someone doesn't get your camera settings figure out. Or leave a comment and I'll get with him for you.
Man I have tried the auto-focus on and off... tried setting to manual focus... hell I have even tried with the front facing camera but that camera is terrible... I just need a new damn phone especially if I am gonna make a run at this TH-cam thing... I had a new phone was a done deal and then realized I hated It lol so now I am back to pulling my hair out... at least I figured how to get rid of the stupid borders lol
John I messaged him told him issue your having. So hopefully we can get in contact with each other. And help get you straighten out. And like I said he a wiz at editing and all this camera and computer stuff. Plus if you have any future issues he can help out also. He might comment since I gave him your sight as well.
@@SOHN32 i appreciate it my man I will check him out... sounds like the answer to my issues
You could sand the same amount off the squish every time by indicating to the base while you are sanding. Set zero when you get to where you want on your first jug, then leave the indicator set up bring the rest down to zero. Then you will have the same squish to base dimension on every jug before you cut the base.
If I am cutting a decent amount off I actually do that... the domed piston is throwing everyone off you guys are over thinking it... every piston is the EXACT same measurement... so no matter how much I cut off the squish or base it doesn't matter... I never cut more than a few thow off the squish because I am only changing the angle not really removing material to be honest... I know because when I cut the base im within 3 or 4 thow every time... if I am doing a flat top piston u do measure how much I take off the squish and I use a different mandrel that has cutters and I actually cut the band then sand it clean
More paw, less jaw.
I understand .020 for squish , but there's no room for carbon hold up on the piston , average guys won't pay the price for expensive two stroke oils and fuels I port my saws and my sqish is around .026 and I'm fine with that , I paid a professional porter lots of money and the saw didn't last a year cuz no room for carbon buildup .
I agree... on a flat top piston run around .023-024... this is why I say its a different deal the way I build saws... I don't have a flat squish or flat top piston and you would have to see it to believe it but they literally don't build up carbon... and I stopped building saws for weekend warriors and firewood guys (no offense because that's what I am) but they don't run em enough or use proper fuel and then have issues... the saws I do now are for pros and they need the torque cuz they are packing in and want lightest saw possible to run biggest bar possible and they run good fuel 💯 best move i ever made was going for the pro accounts and its been a game changer... they dont mess around
John, please stop taking up so much time discussing what other think about you, it really takes away from the knowledge you are sharing.
Pie x r² ÷ 360 = distance between degree lol.
My brain hurts now thanks for that 😂
@@johnscustomsaws pie R round cake R² danget
@@trusted7060 you made it even worse by clarifying.
You say this ain't no crazy operation yet you won't tell us how you do piston doming! Fail bro you contradict yourself! I use my piston to shape my dome!
Actually there's a formula to calculate the exact position of the piston at any given crankshaft angle with all the geometrical trickery taken into account. The link to the formula (and some more useful formulas): www.schweizer-fn.de/motor/kenndaten/kenndaten.php
I did a little coding in matlab to plot a graph of the relation between crankshaft angle and piston position. If anyone is interested in a graph and/or a data set containing the piston position in regard to the crankshaft angle, feel free to ask me. I need only the engine's stroke and conrod length center-center. Piston speed as a function of crankshaft angle can also be provided. If you want the code, just let me know.
Hey dude i could do with a little matlab feshening up! haha but id gladly take the graph and dataset if you've layed it out alrd.. i could also just sit here in the garage and put in the numbers into the formula. But if you got it that would be nice. Its for a 064, .. dont think the conrod specs are availiable on the net. I might have to split it and get back to you!