Man I have two words for you after watching your video: THANK YOU. You helped save me at least $100 to pay someone else to install. I work on computers and I thought well this is gonna be hard to do. It took me 30 minutes to do this and man I love it. Again thank you.
I had absolutely no issue using add a circuit nor the need to remove any a pillar trim. There’s more ways than 1 to skin a cat. Never the less I appreciate this video for an ideas. I merely went crazy looking for the fuse taps for this particular fuse. Non existent in LA Ca area where I live in at a retail store
One last post: 2019 Ford Lariat F-150 3.5 twin turbo - ecoboost: Fuse #37 works great for the Rexing Dash Cam. It is not used (spare) and powers up and down with the truck.
Thanks so much. You seem like you'd be a good neighbor. Got any tools I can borrow? Or steaks? Please consider subscribing to my other channel "Grill and Garage" that I'm just starting (th-cam.com/channels/ZQkcphDY4_5ohN1bfMFDNQ.html). I'll be adding videos about meats and machines.
If you own an ECO BOOST those fuses won't work, camera shuts down when the engine shuts down at red lights, starts up again when you start moving with in my case a 20 second delay. Because nobody ever got hit while sitting at a red light or moving away when it turns green. You need to find a circuit that comes on when the accessories are turned on in the ignition not the engine. In my 2018 it was number 23, AC/A red ten amp at the top of the box. I also managed to slip the wire under the front of the headliner without any removal.
I own an EcoBoost 3.5 L. The feature you're referring to is the Auto Start-Stop feature in which your engine shuts off automatically at stoplights, etc. Thank you for pointing this out, though. It is very important that if a viewer reading this doesn't know his/her fuse functions well, that you use a tester, and test it with the engine on and off to ensure that you have the kind of functioning you want. Thanks for pointing out the #23 fuse. I hope people reading this will note the feature and the issue and the correct fuse.
Thanks for the great vid with lots of detail. I just finished my 2019 2.7 EcoBoost and used the included add a fuse adapter on a Raptor specific 5A fuse that was not used in my Lariat. One note is to be patient with the kick panel that the fuse cover attaches to. This panel was the most difficult to remove.
Some hardwire kits come with a module that allows you to wire it in to a constant fuse and one to a switched fuse and the module will have a switch on it that cuts it off when the battery gets to a certain voltage. Having it wired like this gives you a longer time that your camera will stay on in parking mode. You also don’t have to remove all that trim to hide your wires either
2019 F150 Lariat. Installation went perfectly. Used the Rexing cable but had to buy a mini fuse adapter. Except now I get a message saying "Front Camera Malfunction" followed by "Collision Assistant not available". I don't have a video Ford camera, but must have some kind of sensor". Used fuse #36. My fuse panel is exactly the same as yours except fuse layout description (in addition to mirror etc" it also describes 360* camera module, lane departure, and image processor. I expect the solution is to pick another fuse port that powers off. Wondering if you have heard of this phenomenon from anybody else? Thanks again for the great video!
Hi Tim. Thanks for writing. This doesn't sound optimal. I would look for either an empty fuse slot, or an unused fuse, or something of less significance that comes on with ignition. It seems like maybe you tied into a circuit that could've existed on another trim line of the F150?
Great video. Won’t that fuse tap bend the inside where the fuse makes contact? Then if u ever had to go back to just have a fuse there it might not make contact?
Great Video ! I am getting ready to install 70Mai dashcam on my 2016 F150. Your video excellent . Wire pass, Hot/cold side on fuse. Detailed explanation. Thank you
Thanks so much Anton! I appreciate it. Hope your install went well and everything is working well. I love my 2015, but often wish I had waited until the 2016 models for the 10 speed tranny and the beefed up frame.
Great tutorial. In regard to the stippled area behind the mirror where you placed the adhesive mount, what is the purpose of the stippled area (does it have a function), is the surface conducive to hold a camera, and will the stippled surface become damaged when the adhesive mount is removed?
That stippled area has an interesting practical use. It is called "frit." It is a special coating applied to the windshield glass when the glass is manufactured. It has a few uses. One use is a bonding surface for the adhesive that the glass is installed with. It also acts as a UV blocker so that sunlight doesn't erode the adhesive around the windshield. Lastly, it also conceals the adhesive. If that frit wasn't there, one would be able to see the adhesive that holds your windshield in, and the sunlight would likely degrade it over time. I don't know if the stippled area will be damaged if the adhesive strip is removed. I removed it in one car (a Ford Escape) and the frit wasn't damaged.
You actually want the tap to go to the hot side, NOT the draw side; otherwise, current for your auxiliary device is going through both your auxiliary fuse and the fuse protecting the car component(s), which is not what you want. Putting the tap on the draw side makes the circuit series rather than parallel. You want the fuses to be parallel such that blowing a fuse on one circuit will not affect the other circuit. Great video, aside from that little note!
I get asked that. I really need to go ahead and make that video. The most challenging part was getting the trim off, and the little clothes hanger (a screw is covered by a little piece of plastic that can be pried off with a small screwdriver). The headliner just comes down on the driver side after that, and makes it very easy to fish the wiring through.
@@BrassHorseStudio I was about to ask that as well. I am buying a camera for my wife this year and it will have a rear facing camera. Seeing how to do that would really help.
Great vid, excellent precautions regarding how to remove trim pieces and reinstalling them. As I have not had a dash cam before, I was wondering why you mounted yours on the right side of the mirror? I have the Rexing V1P Pro and was wondering if you would want to see the screen and have quick access to the control buttons. I also have the Rexing hardwire harness and would like to use it. Would you just remove the fixed fuse that they offer and rig it as you have done with the inline fuse?
Thanks John! I actually went back and forth about which side of the mirror to mount the camera. I decided on the right (passenger) side because (a) the angle the mirror is turned toward the driver made it pretty tight behind it to mount it so it wouldn't be behind the frit (little black dots), and (b) I didn't want to see it and be distracted by it. The camera does have a faint red flashing light when it is recording and the screen will occasionally come on if you hit a pothole or something that makes it think you might have been in a collision. If you got the Rexing hardwire kit I think you got, if the fuse that it came with fits the F150 then perhaps you can use it as it. I made the adaptation to the wiring harness I bought simply because it was cheaper to put in an inline fuse, and at the time I did it, aftermarket Micro2 fuse kits that fit the F150 were more expensive and I read on TH-cam that they didn't fit in the F150 fuse box. I'm not sure that's true now with 90 degree fuse add on kits.
Great video - thank you..... couple questions: How do you keep the 'loose' wire from rattling behind the 'rubber weatherstrip' and also keep it from rattling above the headliner?? Seems like there are some pretty good runs where the wire can rattle against hard surfaces in both those areas. Thanks.
Thanks for the clear and concise ibstructions. I do have a question though. In your video you remove the a-pillar trim for cable routing. I have seen other videos where the weatherstripping next to the a-pillar , and .is pulled away . Allowing the wire to be pushed in. Is this a viable solution? I am nervous about pulling thata-pillar trim!
Sorry for the late reply. Yes...puling the weatherstripping is another option, and it will work just fine. Make sure you don't pull or stress the wire too tightly so it doesn't try to pull out from under the weatherstripping.
Thanks for the comment, Steve. One cable is the power supply. The other cable goes to the rear-facing camera, through the headliner, attached to the rear window of the cab.
Hi Derrell. If you can find the hot side of that switch in the upper console, you could solder in a short wire with a 1/4" connector, or you could just use wire clamp connectors to splice in. The only issue I could think of is you'll have to find a ground. It's aluminum up there, so the metal up there isn't an option, so unless you can find a ground wire up there you may need to split your wire harness into separate red and black wires, run the black one to a good ground, and splice the red one into your power at that switch. If you can find a ground and do all that up in the console, that would REALLY reduce the amount you have to tear stuff apart with the A-frame cover, and other stuff, so that's really a good idea, so long as you can find a dependable ground up there. I'd probably wire in an in-line fuse just to protect the rear window circuit in case the camera craps out for any reason. Good thinking! You could use your circuit tester and find the side of the switch circuit that is hot when you're not activating the switch, and tap into that.
At about the 33:40 mark you talk about the left and right, hit and draw sides. Using the testing tool that lights up. Do you put the tap on the side that DOES NOT light up?
Vivian H Sorry for the delay. Yes...put the tap on the side that doesn’t light up. That means that the fuse in the fuse panel will be between your camera and the battery or anything before the fuse. Any problem with your camera will not likely damage the rest of the vehicle then.
I am ready to wire it into my fuse box on my 18 F150 Lariat. I have 3 wires, one for power, one for ground and the other for park mode. Which fuses do u suggest I use for each? Thank u.
Maybe I missed something, but what is the 2nd wire plug in on the left side of the dash cam? The power supply from the fuse box goes to the right side, but on the final install, there is a power(?) cord also plugged into the left side. What is it? Thanx
Great question, Dennis. That is the pass-through power and recording cable that goes to the rear camera. That model of dash cam has a front and a rear camera. It actually saves the forward facing camera and the rear facing camera has completely separate video files marked (A) and (B). I think I have an installation video for the rear facing camera on the channel.
Doesn't your hardwire kit have a function that will shut off a dash cam when the battery gets down to, say, 11.7 volts? Wouldn't you want it powered all the time so that you can use your dash cam in 'PARK MODE' ' to detect bumps, motion, etc when your car is parked and you are away from it?
Hi Richard. I'm not sure what you mean on my radio antenna. My radio antenna is a pole antenna located on the passenger side of the front quarter panel. I never relocated it. And I don't experience any problem. At the same time, I did install the ferrites to minimize RF interference. Are you perhaps referring to some trucks with the radio antenna in the windshield?
Why disassemble the whole car if you could connect the power to the backlight from above? There is also 12v and 12v to USB converters are sold. I did it, it is 10 times easier and looks better. I do this on all machines. But I liked it for showing you how to remove this plafond.
Thanks for the comment, Neil. You make a great point. Yes...you can just as easily use a fuse that remains hot when the truck is off. Bear in mind that you will experience a small (very low amperage) battery load. I've been told by others that for cameras that constantly stay on recording, you can go somewhere between 3 and 7 days without it compromising your battery's starting power (not sure about extreme weather). For most people who are daily drivers, that wouldn't be a problem. However, if you leave it on and in your car on vacation, you may come back to a dead battery. This likely wouldn't happen with a motion detection feature in a less busy place.
Hi Cameron. I hope this reply isn't too late. I think it would be similar, but I do know that the fuse box is different, so you'll definitely want to check your owner's manual for the diagram of what they are, and either choose an open slot that comes on when the truck turns on and use a 5amp fuse, or find a fuse that will not have terrible implications that also comes on when the truck comes on.
You can pop off the pieces down by the fuse box, but it still might be difficult to fully conceal the wiring harness in a way that it won't fall down. How do I know that?
Anyone have a Canadian source for the Fuse Tap, Mini, In-Line? (or similar that will fit) Ebay wants 17 bucks for 4 of them, and another $52 to ship them... Ebay has become the biggest on-line rip off store.
Mike S Hi Mike. There are several more options now than there were when this video was made. I’m aware of 2A blade fuses. The issue at the time was the add-a-fuse connectors didn’t fit in the 2015 F150 fuse block.
Just a note DO NOT try to tap into your rearview mirror power for a dash cam (on an f-150), this will mess with the circuit for your reverse lights. When I tried this with a 12v -> 5v transformer the reverse lights stayed on whenever the camera was plugged in 😂
There "might" be up in the console that come on and stay powered while the truck is on. I looked to see if I could find a schematic that would tell me which wire I could tie into. In the end I just went for the fuse box.
28:05 After all of the efforts, here the camera sits with two ugly wires plugged in and snaking their way up into the headliner. If this isn't an un-professional and tacky looking Rube Goldberg installation, I don't know what is! The magnets are overkill as well.
People like you that create these tutorial videos are true heroes! Thanks for being so thorough in explaining the process. 🙌🏻🙌🏻
Thanks so much Cody! Hopefully I'll have more to come...when I have time to edit!
A trick: you can watch series on Flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching loads of movies recently.
@Sergio Dexter Definitely, I've been watching on Flixzone for since december myself :)
Man I have two words for you after watching your video: THANK YOU.
You helped save me at least $100 to pay someone else to install. I work on computers and I thought well this is gonna be hard to do. It took me 30 minutes to do this and man I love it. Again thank you.
Glad to hear it! I hope you enjoy the dashcam, and don't ever need to use it!
Really, really well-done. Thanks for your work on this! This will turn 3 hours of investigation into a 20-minute install.
Ha! Thanks magnavita. Yeah...the first time through it took me about that long! It's not bad though.
I had absolutely no issue using add a circuit nor the need to remove any a pillar trim. There’s more ways than 1 to skin a cat. Never the less I appreciate this video for an ideas. I merely went crazy looking for the fuse taps for this particular fuse. Non existent in LA Ca area where I live in at a retail store
One last post: 2019 Ford Lariat F-150 3.5 twin turbo - ecoboost: Fuse #37 works great for the Rexing Dash Cam. It is not used (spare) and powers up and down with the truck.
Tim Junek PERFECT!
What a terrific instructional video. I wish you were my next door neighbor! Well done and kudos!
Thanks so much. You seem like you'd be a good neighbor. Got any tools I can borrow? Or steaks? Please consider subscribing to my other channel "Grill and Garage" that I'm just starting (th-cam.com/channels/ZQkcphDY4_5ohN1bfMFDNQ.html). I'll be adding videos about meats and machines.
I'm only at the 19-minute mark and this is already the best video on this topic that exists on TH-cam! Thanks for giving us your time!
Thanks so much! Sorry for the long delay in replying. Between work/travel I get very little time to do this.
Thank you for the time you took to create this tutorial and my best wishes to you.
Well done video with very clear explanations all the way through. Great job!
Exceptional video, so many show you just what you need to get you ALMOST there, but this one goes the whole distance without a whole lot of fluff!
Thanks so much, Will. I hope it helps!
If you own an ECO BOOST those fuses won't work, camera shuts down when the engine shuts down at red lights, starts up again when you start moving with in my case a 20 second delay. Because nobody ever got hit while sitting at a red light or moving away when it turns green. You need to find a circuit that comes on when the accessories are turned on in the ignition not the engine. In my 2018 it was number 23, AC/A red ten amp at the top of the box. I also managed to slip the wire under the front of the headliner without any removal.
I own an EcoBoost 3.5 L. The feature you're referring to is the Auto Start-Stop feature in which your engine shuts off automatically at stoplights, etc. Thank you for pointing this out, though. It is very important that if a viewer reading this doesn't know his/her fuse functions well, that you use a tester, and test it with the engine on and off to ensure that you have the kind of functioning you want. Thanks for pointing out the #23 fuse. I hope people reading this will note the feature and the issue and the correct fuse.
I did not know power was interrupted during auto stop. Thanks very much for mentioning this and saving me a bunch of time!
You can easily disable the auto start/stop feature by unplugging the lowest connector on the trailer module.
Thanks for the great vid with lots of detail. I just finished my 2019 2.7 EcoBoost and used the included add a fuse adapter on a Raptor specific 5A fuse that was not used in my Lariat. One note is to be patient with the kick panel that the fuse cover attaches to. This panel was the most difficult to remove.
Thanks! I was able to get mine done on my 17' F150 Lariat in under an hour thanks to your video.
Thanks so much. Man, those new Lariats are reeeaaalllyyy nice. I keep wondering if 5 years is enough to own this one and trade up!
Daniel, did you tap into the same fuse and same side as he did? I have a 2017 Lariat as well. Thanks!
Taking that time to explain the very in details!, thank you so much!
This is a very well done video with clear explanations of what it is you are doing. I appreciate the time and effort you have put into this.
Some hardwire kits come with a module that allows you to wire it in to a constant fuse and one to a switched fuse and the module will have a switch on it that cuts it off when the battery gets to a certain voltage. Having it wired like this gives you a longer time that your camera will stay on in parking mode. You also don’t have to remove all that trim to hide your wires either
i stuck a piece of cat5 down from the top (by the wiring channels) and fished the wire up.
Thanks for this video, it really helps folks like me feel confident doing the install myself. Much appreciated!!
Great tutorial! Using it to install my new Garmin 57 in my F150 👍👍
2019 F150 Lariat. Installation went perfectly. Used the Rexing cable but had to buy a mini fuse adapter. Except now I get a message saying "Front Camera Malfunction" followed by "Collision Assistant not available". I don't have a video Ford camera, but must have some kind of sensor". Used fuse #36. My fuse panel is exactly the same as yours except fuse layout description (in addition to mirror etc" it also describes 360* camera module, lane departure, and image processor. I expect the solution is to pick another fuse port that powers off. Wondering if you have heard of this phenomenon from anybody else? Thanks again for the great video!
Hi Tim. Thanks for writing. This doesn't sound optimal. I would look for either an empty fuse slot, or an unused fuse, or something of less significance that comes on with ignition. It seems like maybe you tied into a circuit that could've existed on another trim line of the F150?
I am having the same issue with my truck, 2018 3.0L Power Stroke F-150; did you locate an alternative fuse spot for your camera? Thanks In advance
Great video. Won’t that fuse tap bend the inside where the fuse makes contact? Then if u ever had to go back to just have a fuse there it might not make contact?
Sorry for the late reply, but the fuse tap is rather thin, and rolls around the bottom end of the fuse. It is in there solid.
Thanks for your prompt reply. What a great neighbor!
Great Video ! I am getting ready to install 70Mai dashcam on my 2016 F150. Your video excellent . Wire pass, Hot/cold side on fuse. Detailed explanation. Thank you
Thanks so much Anton! I appreciate it. Hope your install went well and everything is working well. I love my 2015, but often wish I had waited until the 2016 models for the 10 speed tranny and the beefed up frame.
Great tutorial. In regard to the stippled area behind the mirror where you placed the adhesive mount, what is the purpose of the stippled area (does it have a function), is the surface conducive to hold a camera, and will the stippled surface become damaged when the adhesive mount is removed?
That stippled area has an interesting practical use. It is called "frit." It is a special coating applied to the windshield glass when the glass is manufactured. It has a few uses. One use is a bonding surface for the adhesive that the glass is installed with. It also acts as a UV blocker so that sunlight doesn't erode the adhesive around the windshield. Lastly, it also conceals the adhesive. If that frit wasn't there, one would be able to see the adhesive that holds your windshield in, and the sunlight would likely degrade it over time. I don't know if the stippled area will be damaged if the adhesive strip is removed. I removed it in one car (a Ford Escape) and the frit wasn't damaged.
@@BrassHorseStudio Ah, thank you for the education! www.dedona.com/the-purpose-of-the-frit-black-band-and-spots-on-windshield/
Even now it’s exactly what I was looking for, extremely appreciated, THANKS
Glad I could help!
Awesome video, great descriptive process, easy to follow and well filmed. Thanks!
You actually want the tap to go to the hot side, NOT the draw side; otherwise, current for your auxiliary device is going through both your auxiliary fuse and the fuse protecting the car component(s), which is not what you want. Putting the tap on the draw side makes the circuit series rather than parallel. You want the fuses to be parallel such that blowing a fuse on one circuit will not affect the other circuit.
Great video, aside from that little note!
He talks for 9 1/2 minutes before he begins the install so skip to 9:27 if that's what you're here for
Great Video! Good attention to detail with those little quirks that can be frustrating. looking for more videos done by you
Thanks so much! Hope it helps!
Great video, hoping to find one as good covering the 2022 Lariat which I have on order.
Will I need to reset radio channels or any other electronics in my 2018 Ford F-150 if I disconnect the negative battery cable?
You did an excellent job on this video. Which it would have been for my Ram 1500.
Really nice video. Thank you!
Thank you! Going to do this today.
Excellent Video, Thank you
Great vid, very thorough... Do you have the one yet showing the addition of the rear facing camera?
I get asked that. I really need to go ahead and make that video. The most challenging part was getting the trim off, and the little clothes hanger (a screw is covered by a little piece of plastic that can be pried off with a small screwdriver). The headliner just comes down on the driver side after that, and makes it very easy to fish the wiring through.
@@BrassHorseStudio I was about to ask that as well. I am buying a camera for my wife this year and it will have a rear facing camera. Seeing how to do that would really help.
Great vid, excellent precautions regarding how to remove trim pieces and reinstalling them. As I have not had a dash cam before, I was wondering why you mounted yours on the right side of the mirror? I have the Rexing V1P Pro and was wondering if you would want to see the screen and have quick access to the control buttons. I also have the Rexing hardwire harness and would like to use it. Would you just remove the fixed fuse that they offer and rig it as you have done with the inline fuse?
Thanks John! I actually went back and forth about which side of the mirror to mount the camera. I decided on the right (passenger) side because (a) the angle the mirror is turned toward the driver made it pretty tight behind it to mount it so it wouldn't be behind the frit (little black dots), and (b) I didn't want to see it and be distracted by it. The camera does have a faint red flashing light when it is recording and the screen will occasionally come on if you hit a pothole or something that makes it think you might have been in a collision. If you got the Rexing hardwire kit I think you got, if the fuse that it came with fits the F150 then perhaps you can use it as it. I made the adaptation to the wiring harness I bought simply because it was cheaper to put in an inline fuse, and at the time I did it, aftermarket Micro2 fuse kits that fit the F150 were more expensive and I read on TH-cam that they didn't fit in the F150 fuse box. I'm not sure that's true now with 90 degree fuse add on kits.
Great video - thank you..... couple questions: How do you keep the 'loose' wire from rattling behind the 'rubber weatherstrip' and also keep it from rattling above the headliner?? Seems like there are some pretty good runs where the wire can rattle against hard surfaces in both those areas. Thanks.
Thanks for the clear and concise ibstructions. I do have a question though. In your video you remove the a-pillar trim for cable routing. I have seen other videos where the weatherstripping next to the a-pillar , and .is pulled away . Allowing the wire to be pushed in.
Is this a viable solution? I am nervous about pulling thata-pillar trim!
Sorry for the late reply. Yes...puling the weatherstripping is another option, and it will work just fine. Make sure you don't pull or stress the wire too tightly so it doesn't try to pull out from under the weatherstripping.
Great Video, but why do you have 2 cables connected to the Camera? I understand 1 wire is for power, but what is the other wore for? Thanks Steve.
Thanks for the comment, Steve. One cable is the power supply. The other cable goes to the rear-facing camera, through the headliner, attached to the rear window of the cab.
any way to tap into the power rear window switch for power to a dash cam?
Hi Derrell. If you can find the hot side of that switch in the upper console, you could solder in a short wire with a 1/4" connector, or you could just use wire clamp connectors to splice in. The only issue I could think of is you'll have to find a ground. It's aluminum up there, so the metal up there isn't an option, so unless you can find a ground wire up there you may need to split your wire harness into separate red and black wires, run the black one to a good ground, and splice the red one into your power at that switch. If you can find a ground and do all that up in the console, that would REALLY reduce the amount you have to tear stuff apart with the A-frame cover, and other stuff, so that's really a good idea, so long as you can find a dependable ground up there. I'd probably wire in an in-line fuse just to protect the rear window circuit in case the camera craps out for any reason. Good thinking! You could use your circuit tester and find the side of the switch circuit that is hot when you're not activating the switch, and tap into that.
Brass Horse Media that’s a great idea. I might give that a shot if I do this
Nice work and nice job show & explaining to us. Will definitely help me out.
Nice video. I'll be installing one in my 2015 soon.
Great! I hope you never need to use it, but it's great to have.
Just bought a dashcam, didn't know how to run the wire until I saw this video. Thank you.
Do you have a review of this DashCam? How does this compare to the BlackVUE dash cam that sells for close to $400?
Thank you so much for the assist!
Happy to help!
So I bought a Rexing camera that has the parking mode feature. Does that mean I need to tap into a fuse that is hot while the truck is off?
GREAT VIDEO VERY HELPFUL,ARE YOU PLANING TO DO ONE FOR THE REAR FACEING CAMERA ON 2017 FORD F-150?
Super helpful video!! Thanks much for your thoroughness! Do you have a video of how to install the rear facing camera on the F150?
Hi David. I actually intend to do that. There were a few ins-and-outs to running that back cable. It's certainly not hard, but a video will help.
This is a really good install video. Well done ! Thanks!
Thanks Chris! I really appreciate the comment!
Thank you! Very good video.
Hey man is sodering necessary ? I want my dash cam to turn of when I turn off my 2021 f150
At about the 33:40 mark you talk about the left and right, hit and draw sides. Using the testing tool that lights up. Do you put the tap on the side that DOES NOT light up?
Vivian H Sorry for the delay. Yes...put the tap on the side that doesn’t light up. That means that the fuse in the fuse panel will be between your camera and the battery or anything before the fuse. Any problem with your camera will not likely damage the rest of the vehicle then.
Excellent tutorial.
Glad you liked it! Thanks so much!
Wonderful video! Love the depth of detail, extremely helpful as I look to install on my 2018.
Thanks Benjamin! I appreciate the kind words. See my video for the loose fuel door if you ever face that problem.
Very informative, thank you for making this video.
Justin R Thanks so much. I hope to do more!
@@BrassHorseStudio Your video made my install much easier. I'm sure others would benefit from any additional content you create!
Thank you!Very helpful I had mine done in about 30 min
I'm so glad I could be of help!
Any tips on the fuse install for the wire that comes with the unit? It comes with a 2 leg fuse insert.
Thank you so much for your time on this!
Thanks Landreth for the comment! It took a lot longer to edit than it did to record!
Thanks for the video!
I am ready to wire it into my fuse box on my 18 F150 Lariat. I have 3 wires, one for power, one for ground and the other for park mode. Which fuses do u suggest I use for each? Thank u.
Maybe I missed something, but what is the 2nd wire plug in on the left side of the dash cam? The power supply from the fuse box goes to the right side, but on the final install, there is a power(?) cord also plugged into the left side. What is it? Thanx
Great question, Dennis. That is the pass-through power and recording cable that goes to the rear camera. That model of dash cam has a front and a rear camera. It actually saves the forward facing camera and the rear facing camera has completely separate video files marked (A) and (B). I think I have an installation video for the rear facing camera on the channel.
Is there a link to show tricks on how to route the rear camera??
Doesn't your hardwire kit have a function that will shut off a dash cam when the battery gets down to, say, 11.7 volts? Wouldn't you want it powered all the time so that you can use your dash cam in 'PARK MODE' ' to detect bumps, motion, etc when your car is parked and you are away from it?
Why not mount it on left side so you can see it ??? Mirror blocks it ???
I see you have it mounted on your radio antenna / will that effect your radio stations ?
Hi Richard. I'm not sure what you mean on my radio antenna. My radio antenna is a pole antenna located on the passenger side of the front quarter panel. I never relocated it. And I don't experience any problem. At the same time, I did install the ferrites to minimize RF interference. Are you perhaps referring to some trucks with the radio antenna in the windshield?
Why disassemble the whole car if you could connect the power to the backlight from above? There is also 12v and 12v to USB converters are sold. I did it, it is 10 times easier and looks better. I do this on all machines.
But I liked it for showing you how to remove this plafond.
Thank you very much for this upload! Exactly what I was looking for.
Thank you very much. Glad to help!
I have a 2012 and hard wired a radar detector. Thanks.
Great application! Hadn't thought of that. Glad it helped.
Wouldn't you want to tap into a hot line for dash cams that have the motion detection feature?
Thanks for the comment, Neil. You make a great point. Yes...you can just as easily use a fuse that remains hot when the truck is off. Bear in mind that you will experience a small (very low amperage) battery load. I've been told by others that for cameras that constantly stay on recording, you can go somewhere between 3 and 7 days without it compromising your battery's starting power (not sure about extreme weather). For most people who are daily drivers, that wouldn't be a problem. However, if you leave it on and in your car on vacation, you may come back to a dead battery. This likely wouldn't happen with a motion detection feature in a less busy place.
Thank you.
Do you think I can use this video for a 2012 F150?
Hi Cameron. I hope this reply isn't too late. I think it would be similar, but I do know that the fuse box is different, so you'll definitely want to check your owner's manual for the diagram of what they are, and either choose an open slot that comes on when the truck turns on and use a 5amp fuse, or find a fuse that will not have terrible implications that also comes on when the truck comes on.
Why does everone take like 3/4 of the truck appart when you only need to pop off the peices down by the fuse box?
You can pop off the pieces down by the fuse box, but it still might be difficult to fully conceal the wiring harness in a way that it won't fall down. How do I know that?
Its not hard to try just tucking a wire above the headliner and behind the door seal
Gotta steer clear of the air bags.
Trims removed 19:01
Very well done Sir. Thank you
Thanks Zman!
Wow thankyou
Anyone have a Canadian source for the Fuse Tap, Mini, In-Line? (or similar that will fit)
Ebay wants 17 bucks for 4 of them, and another $52 to ship them... Ebay has become the biggest on-line rip off store.
Hi Mogalize, sorry to take so long to reply. I've been traveling. You might want to find the fuse tap kit on Amazon?
@@BrassHorseStudio Thanks, After some searching, I found some local. $2.77 for a pack of 6... Same fuse location worked for me!
Ebay sucks so hard now. They even openly allow for price gouging during times of crisis.
You actually get 2amp blade fuses
Mike S Hi Mike. There are several more options now than there were when this video was made. I’m aware of 2A blade fuses. The issue at the time was the add-a-fuse connectors didn’t fit in the 2015 F150 fuse block.
Just a note DO NOT try to tap into your rearview mirror power for a dash cam (on an f-150), this will mess with the circuit for your reverse lights. When I tried this with a 12v -> 5v transformer the reverse lights stayed on whenever the camera was plugged in 😂
Also this was a very helpful video, thank you!
It’s unfortunate there’s no usable wires you can take power from in the overhead console itself
There "might" be up in the console that come on and stay powered while the truck is on. I looked to see if I could find a schematic that would tell me which wire I could tie into. In the end I just went for the fuse box.
12:38 you did not mention after getting the screw removed from the visor how much of a b@#$h it to get the visor removed afterward.
Crazy they can't comprehend the cable will go UP so don't put an angled connector on that goes DOWN. Duh.
Why are you talking about mud and dirt getting into the fuse box when you are wiring inside the truck other than that it's a good video
28:05 After all of the efforts, here the camera sits with two ugly wires plugged in and snaking their way up into the headliner. If this isn't an un-professional and tacky looking Rube Goldberg installation, I don't know what is! The magnets are overkill as well.
Excellent job.
Thanks so much, Steve!