This will most likely be the rear end that stays in this car forever.... I'll reseal the pinion bearing, it's leaking, and maybe rebuild the LSD. I didnt want to risk bending the axle flanges, so to me, its better not to take any chances!!! Thanks for watching! Always more than one way to skin cats. :)
Any suggestions on a link on the studs? As I'm getting ready to do with 1969 camaro that I'm putting old style American racing rims on. Links for products in description be awesome. Just like your videos are!
Hi Kevin. You call it fake 70 ,ok,I get it,it's a 74,but,at least you use real looking split bumper nose,not the fake ones that are on every split bumper at Maple motors, witch is a muscle car and classic car dealer,channel on youtube, and the until I called him out 100 times, he would sell the car as a split bumper verbally in the videos, so,you my man,are an honest man,I really like that about you,and in people I like.If a person isn't honest, or steals,I have no use for them .Well,yeah,nevermind, lol.Keep on keeping on friend
ive changed wheel studs before by simply taking an old wheel nut, threading it on to prevent the threads mushrooming over, then whack them with the hammer. then to refit, a bunch of washers and tighten the new studs with the wheel nuts. works perfectly.
I always knocked them out with a shop hammer and put em back in with an oversized nut (for a spacer ) and a nut that fits with an impact wrench .... pulls the new 1 right in there.
Me neither. One blow from a 2kg club hammer knocks them out, and few spacers for the wheelnut to bear against pulls the new stud into place. The tricky part can be that there isn't enough space behind the flange to get them out/in, which does make it necessary to pull the half-shaft out of the axle.
I still love the fact after all these years and your dedicated service the automotive services history vehicles education and how to thank you for what you do
Better living through modern chemistry! I would follow the Evapo-Rust with sandblasting. Works every time. Then clean & finish with a rust-inhibitor & paint. Good as new! Keep going on this Gen-2 F-body, I really love them.
Mr. B. Here ! 🍩☕️👀😎👍 : Am not a fan of big wheels on classics or black but it’s your vehicle and it’s what you like ! Love trick for the lugs, but you still have to replace axle seals , piñon seal service rear gear oil ? ? ? From what you started with , it’s come pretty far from garage. I have used the rust remover from the beginning it was introduced. Great product ! Nice job over all ! 🍩☕️👀😎👍
Mr B, great question! Yes, gotta go through the axle completely, I just didn't wanna do it yet. Not the right time (for me) to take that bite of the elephant 🐘. I may polish the hoops on those wheels, keep the spokes black maybe. They are really good quality wheels, billet specialties, but I am not totally digging them all black either
Mr. B. Here ! Am olds school , you’ll make the right choice ! I know many have done it , but the Classic Chevy wheels do it for me , my 1976 GMC Sprint has from the factory Classic Wheel . My Olds Cutlass also a 1976 has wheel Super lll paint to match. Toll you am old school am ( 72 ) and stilling learning. 🍸🍸👀😎👍🇺🇸
I’m really liking this Camaro build. I owned a Camaro 40 years ago. I loved that car but along came marriage and children. You know how it goes. Thank you for this.
Thank you for your product testing and endorsements! Some of us may never restore a car, but every one of us will need a rust remover or protective coating or rattle can paint in the near future, so thanks for the little tips as well as providing top notch lessons on doing the big stuff!
As many times as I've gone through cars restored them, fix them up, refurbished them, whatever, I always always learn something new! What's really fun is discovering new things and being able to pass them on is just an added bonus. :-) thanks for watching! And thank you very much for the nice comments
Evapo-Rust ROCKS!!! Especially for smaller pieces that can fit in an ultrasonic cleaner. It is safe on hands. I've been using it for about 3 years now and you can reuse it until it stops working. I buy the 5 gallon pail of it.
I get the same results for much less with citric acid powder (you can actually drink it). I keep a batch mixed up on my shop floor with a fish tank heater in a 2 gallon bucket then just drop parts in it as I need. Once it gets nasty I just mix up another batch maybe every month or so. Been working from the same gallon powder tub for a couple years now. Gotta love science!
Greetings from NZ Kevin I got inspired by you, Derek Bieri and Chris Slee and bought an old car-a 1954 Morris Minor 2 door split screen;I have fired the parts cannon at it and am well under way. Part of the job has been soaking parts in Evapo Rust,. Wow, what a product-first saw it on another channel 2 yrs ago, and have been soaking all nuts bolts washers and similar and am amazed at the results. Filter it thru large coffee filters and re use.
Hey man, I remember the old Morris Minor. My sister had one that my Dad and I fixed up for her. It was a Lo Light with the flat head Four in it. I don't recall the year. Anyway glad we inspired you!! Where in NZ are you?
I'm from Canada.... I remember those Minors!! We used to make "bush-buggies out of em... Cut the tops off, pull the doors and go up into old logging roads!! Those cars were great!!! "Parts Cannon".... Lol that's good!!! Thanks for watching!
Bloody wheel stud replacements there is never an easy way to do these. Kevin you are really entertaining whether, cutting, grinding, chiseling, polishing, welding all part of the experience, great when you hook up with Kiwi Chris and Derek VGG - Be safe and take care 👍🏎️
You see KT this is why every step of this build is worth sharing ! Nice hack ! . As I’ve told you in the past, I followed along with my build when you were building Zed Sled and I was step by step with you and everything I picked up on made my build so much better. So keep hitting us with these kind of videos because they make a huge difference. So from one British Columbian to another, thanks .
That evaporust is good stuff. I have seen it used in many ways! Have seen it used with old bolts inside of a rusty gas tank to clean it out! Soak it for a day. Soak more I'd needed!
I got an A+ one semester in high school auto shop class for designing and fabricating a tool to press studs out without removing the axle, just like this hack. Mine had a "C" slot that clamped to the axle flange with set screws, and the threaded press stud was cupped at the end to fit over the stud to help keep it centered on the stud. It worked great ! That was 1978-79 ... I guess I should have gotten a patent and manufactured it for sale ! 😞 I see a lot of comments about just whacking them with a hammer ... Yeah, that works, and I have done it, but when they say " No Damage " ... That needs to be followed up with ... " That I know of ". Not worth the risk on these old cars an old rear ends/axles.
Absolute best way to drive these studs out is an Airhammer. As long as thers room behind, the airhammer drives them out with in seconds. Used that method for a very long time both on cars trucks but also heavy machinery. Way I do it is put a nut half way on the stud to keep the chissel in place on the stud then drive it out with the airhammer in short bursts. Regards from Sweden.
I use gallons of Evapo-Rust! I use paint filters and filter back into the bottles. I did have an old can of carb soak and stole the basket and a new paint can to dump fasteners in the basket and let them soak. I'll have to check out the Pickle X 20 spray in the future. I use denatured alcohol to prevent flash rust. When my step dad passed, he had loads of fasteners and I managed to soak them in Evapo-Rust and saved them for the ol' inventory. Can't have too many bolts! I kinda like the wheels, and better yet, they were already in inventory! Lisle tools has a lug bolt install gizmo to use to install a lug bolt using a lug nut. I like that tool you have better. I'm always afraid to strip a lug nut with too many uggs!
Hey Kevin! I'm really enjoying the videos. They're, in my opinion, better than the TV shows as far as depth of explanation of procedures. Great job here! Just for giggles, it might be interesting to see what happens to the damaged seat track when it has an extended soak in the evaporust. Figure you can't hurt it anymore than it already is, and it'd be interesting to see what happens with, say, a weeklong soak... Once again, great job and great videos! I look forward to seeing them!
I'm not a fan of black wheels of any kind, on any car, but that's just my set in my ways old guy opinion, but I get why you put them on. I'm a little paranoid, I always go with 1/2 inch studs as a minimum, and I don't trust them staying in place when the splines are drilled out, so I hit them with the welder... That's a slick idea using the puller to push out the studs. I'd never heard of doing that before. 👍 I don't remember hearing what your plans are for the engine and trans. Are you going to keep the 10 bolt rear end ? If you are, are you going to use the stock axles ? Evaporust is good stuff. So much easier, and works better than trying to clean with a wire wheel or sander.
A suggestion I saw on a different video (Ed China) is to take jugs (milk jugs, etc.) filled with water and place in the large container to raise the level of the expensive rust remover.
@@paintucation I’m currently redoing a 1984 dodge 3/4 ton 250. This channel has helped me tremendously! I’m even going to paint the truck myself using your excellent tips! I thank you!!
I find it ironic I didn't get to watch Paintucation until now. Why? My older son and I were doing some spot painting on his fiancé's car. He mostly did it, and I kept the shop stool warm. Came out great. As an aside - Evaposrust is awesome stuff - believe it or not - you can put your hands in it. Thank you as always - GREAT tip on the wheel lugs. I have one to do and you just made it a lot easier. Have a great week ~ Chuck
“I’ve seen wheels come off … it ain’t pretty.” In the late 70s, the rear axle of my 1965 GTO broke off at the hub as I was going down road. All I could see (beside the tire rolling past), were sparks flying everywhere in the rear view mirror. My life literally flashed before my eyes… I just KNEW I was skidding on the gas tank! Of course in reality it never got close to the tank and luckily I was only going about 30mph at time but the pucker factor was HUGE! No … not pretty indeed! 😂
Hey my guy that was cool idea, I seen a guy do that with a C clamp way back in the day, but I believe he destored the clamp somehow, anyway it great to see that we're still coming up with good ideas. Great show love to see you still going, and making cool rides. Be safe in your travels K!!
When you have a bath of fluid that doesn't cover the stuff, you can put more stuff in it to raise the fluid level. Plastic bottles with fluid, Chains, weights, or anything to increase the volume of the liquid to get it to cover. Evaporust is some amazing and awesome stuff.
Evaporust is imo the best thing to clean a old gas tank out with. i have used it on a few 70's-80's era motorcycle tanks and it wont start eating the metal like CLR will if it goes too long.ive left bolts in it for multiple days as a test and it doesnt eat the metal
If you are planning a disc brake conversion to the rearend you may not need the spacers at all and I think you will have good clearance for the wheel & tire combo. They sell that evap o rust in 5 gallon pails that allow you to let the items sit and soak for a while
Those wheels, while not my style (I love steelies and dog dishes!), really suit the car. It gives a mean, pro-touring look. Been following for about a month now and am really digging the builds! - Jamie
I think the wheel "Spacers" are ok. The Wheel "Adapters" I will NEVER use again. I has one break on my Charger. 2-Evoporust is an excellent product. but a little Spendy. I use Vinegar with 10 % Molasses and that works really good. Good comment of re-using Evoporust.
I really like the new shoes on the Garbage Camaro! Thats alot easier than pulling the axle! I just had to replace some studs on our daily driver from negligents done from a VA state inspection.
I remember back in the day when it was USA slotted aluminum mags, Cragar SS Chrome 5 spokes, Centerlines and Weld Wheels....mainly 14" & 15"... 80 - 50 series tires.
The pitman arm puller trick will work better if you use a spacer made for pullers between the forcing screw and the piece you are pushing against. There is actually a spacer that is recessed on one side and has the dimple to seat and keep your forcing screw centered. Another thing I do when pulling and pressing with those types of pullers is to lubricate the threads of the puller with either Anti-seize or an extreme pressure grease (it not only lubricates the threads but keeps the heat down from the threads running under the higher pressure). I also lubricate the studs with an engine oil or transmission fluid where they press into the axle and also lubricate the studs themselves with either Anti seize or extreme pressure grease. This keeps the studs lubricated and also helps in not stretching the threads on the stud. The installing tool is OK as you need all the threads to engage to pull the stud through the axle flange. I never try this with dry threads on the studs or the puller tools especially the forcing threads on the puller. On those seat tracks as you most likely know the seat tracks never come painted from the factory and they will surface rust and with some lubrication they will work fine. Of course, I have seen seat tracks that have just plain rusted down due to the fact that the vehicle has been flooded or submerged or just left to rot for fifty years. They did clean up however and they will look fine painted with the color of your choice. Granted the lubrication gets a little messy but we can't have everything now can we.
I'm really loving the Camaro build. Looking forward to more videos and looking forward to se the Camaro completely done. Love your channel, Keep up the great work.
I have a can of evaporust that my dad bought 20 or so years ago to dip carbs. Still use it from time to time on stubborn small engine carbs. One can will last you a long time depending on how you use it. I've upgraded to a ultrasonic cleaner but for some things the classic is just better.
I love how that tool you used to pull them in does the exact same thing as a spacer and a old lugnut in the exact same way. But somehow cost a bunch of money.
Great tip for the ball joint/pitman arm puller. I think I have three of those now from various yard sale trips. I could modify one for...whatever... Another bit of knowledge to tuck away. Evapo-rust is a great product. I'm surprised you haven't used it before. Liquid Wrench or WD (can't remember now) has a version of this that I used several years ago to clean up an old 1959 50th anniversary Western Auto "Golden Flyer" bicycle. It is a one year only bike. All of the chrome parts were painted (?) with a gold (Golden Anniversary) transparent paint. The wheels took about a week to clean. I could only submerge a portion of the rim at a time, so I'd soak, rotate, soak until they were clean. It took off the rust but didn't harm the chrome or (what was left of) the gold coating. Cool old "tank" bike with dual headlights. I wish I could post a pic. If it has an engine, wheels, gears, chains, sprockets or wings, I'm interested.
There are a variety of rust resolvers, of varying performance. Project farm has some reviews. As I recall the best ones are a type of phosphoric acid and leave the metal in good condition without immediate return of rust.
All the guys hammering on the wheel studs, it works but it transfers forces to the gear set. And wheel bearings in the front. It's not the greatest thing to do, but it does work.
What I do differently is I scrub and rinse the parts in another container as to not add all the junk to the evaporust further contaminating it. You can use a paint strainer or coffee filter to strain it. If you let it sit undisturbed, most will settle to the bottom so you can pour off the clean evaporust into the jugs and not clog your filter.
I really hope you go with kreggers in the back deep dish.And shallow dish in the front kragers are American racing one of the other.I really think they look great on those camaros.Or talk thrust rims look real good on those sweat bumper cars.Also, right now.I can't wait to see what you choose
In the beginning when you roll up your sleeve all I saw was you flexing a pimple 🤣 but seriously folks I'm glad you can take a joke and give one and like I said before I would help you if I could be there buddy 🇺🇸👍
I'm more of a fan of just taking the axles out and taking the wheel studs and having them pressed in. I've heard that sucking the studs through like that can stretch them and leave a weak point in the shank of the stud that causes them to snap easier. I've also watched video of someone trying to do it this way and stripping the threads off the studs. (Roadkill) I'm still a huge fan of the Ralleye wheels, I know a few companies make them in larger sizes and aluminum. I guess that's also showing my love of the 68-70 Cutlass. Yeah, Evaporust seems to be worth the incredible price.. I've seen someone take an old revolver that was a huge chunk of rust and leave it in that stuff for a few days and pull it out and the cylinder was able to turn freely, the door for putting in rounds/ejecting the cases was able to move freely, the extractor rod was able to move freely and the hammer and trigger were able to move freely. The only thing it didn't fix was the springs for the trigger and hammer which were so rusty they snapped. The interesting thing they found out was it was actually loaded. Deep pitted rust still needs a media blasting cabinet though.
Kevin putting new wheeels on the Camaro when the rest of it looks like it does, reminds me of the movie Christine. Will Darnell:""Just look how cockeyed he works Pepper, new windshield wipers on a busted windshield." Pepper Boyd:"The boy is good with his hands..." Will Darnell:"Mmm, Yeah but bad taste in cars.".......😂😂😂😂 Keep up the good videos Kevin.
I love Evaporust. I use a 5-gallon bucket, put my rusty stuff in it, then fill it as far as needed to cover the parts. i have about 4 gallons of the stuff. i then filter it and reuse it. it does lose some potency after a while, but i have the original 4 gallons i bought about 3 years ago and it still works pretty good. i used it to remove the rust form a set of very rusty, and old 461x camel hump heads so i could get them disassembled and get the valves out of them, worked like a charm. i was afraid i would have to drive the valves out with a hammer. but after 3 days were pretty rust free. one trick i use for soaking stuff that is too big to fit in my bucket is to get heavy duty plastic liner bags, like the kind they use in a 55gallon drum. put my parts in it. fill it with evaporate, then squeeze the air out of it, and zip tie it off that way, large, odd, shaped parts can be fully covered with a minimal amount of chemical used.
Evoporust works great ... I've used it for years restoring old rusted hand tools. For those odd shape or long items, I usually make a quick 2x4 frame and then line with a trash bag.
Kevin, if you want to see some Evaporust action (along with a really cool channel), check out Hand Tool Rescue. He's a Canadian fellow with a wonderful sense of humor who restores old tools (and makes some of his own). He does beautiful work, and he has (what looks like) a 55-gallon drum of Evaporust that he puts to good use in every video. Can't recommend this channel highly enough! Love your channel... love your videos!
I use evaporust all the time it works great. One suggestion so you don’t waste so much product is to use a smaller bucket since the items are long and skinny you could insert them into a smaller bucket and then when it’s finished, flip them over and do the other end.
Kevin if you had some clean pebble gravel or some clean bricks you could have put that in the plastic pan to rise the level of the Evapo-Rust to cover the seat rails.
I understand that there are plenty of ways to remove wheel studs, however, I have NEVER removed wheel studs with anything besides a sledge hammer. I only install with my old MAC wheel studs installer kit. Both work wonders and I've never had any issues!!!
I bought a 77’ Chevy K10 years ago with aftermarket wheels, the owner left the original studs in. One day i noticed a lugnut missing and then noticed the short stud, turns out each lugnut was only grabbing 3/16” of the stud end… I drove that truck 80+ MPH home from Glenwood Iowa. Lol Eventually i installed deep reach lug nuts to go into the wheel deeper and grab more of the stud. I wanted longer studs but couldn’t find anything long studs in that small diameter the K10 uses. Many years later, no more lugnuts have fallen off.
50/50 white vinegar and water will do the same thing, maybe even some lemon juice added. And it’s way cheaper than that stuff. And, if you don’t have enough for the bucket or whatever your putting it in, add some big rocks or pieces of brick to bring the mix level higher in the container.
Hello Kevin, need to do the same wheel stud change on my 81 Z28. Do you have a part number or link that you used for the new wheel studs? Also, what thread pitch did you use? Thanks in advance!
You could put a plastic bag filled with rocks or a brick or anything and put it the tub of Evaporust in between the parts to displace some volume to raise the level so all the parts are covered.
Couple of thoughts, Personally I just drive the stud out with a good whack of the hammer , that is me though and it works for me.... On the last stud where the head mushrooms you could avoid that by installing an old open face nut on the tip this will stop the stud from mushrooming, once the stud is free you remove the nut and you can take the loose stud out. I wonder if they make a spacer that would have a new hub centric ring on it extending the Shaft ring out further so that the rim uses the ring and the studs making a stronger mounting point.
I just went through this with my 93 Mustang I wanted to go with 3 inch wheel studs, but I could only fit 2 1/2 in the rears without removing the axles, but I got it done
Put a lug nut on it right at the end so it doesn’t mushroom, them whack the lug nut with the hammer. To put the new ones in, just stack washers and put lug nut on. Tighten it down and pulls it right in
Since back in the mid to late 1980's if your replacing them we just used a hammer.and used a lug nut with spacer if needed and tighten them till seated .may not be proper but eorks
This will most likely be the rear end that stays in this car forever.... I'll reseal the pinion bearing, it's leaking, and maybe rebuild the LSD. I didnt want to risk bending the axle flanges, so to me, its better not to take any chances!!! Thanks for watching! Always more than one way to skin cats. :)
Any suggestions on a link on the studs? As I'm getting ready to do with 1969 camaro that I'm putting old style American racing rims on. Links for products in description be awesome. Just like your videos are!
ether way the not going to like it lol
Hi Kevin. You call it fake 70 ,ok,I get it,it's a 74,but,at least you use real looking split bumper nose,not the fake ones that are on every split bumper at Maple motors, witch is a muscle car and classic car dealer,channel on youtube, and the until I called him out 100 times, he would sell the car as a split bumper verbally in the videos, so,you my man,are an honest man,I really like that about you,and in people I like.If a person isn't honest, or steals,I have no use for them .Well,yeah,nevermind, lol.Keep on keeping on friend
ive changed wheel studs before by simply taking an old wheel nut, threading it on to prevent the threads mushrooming over, then whack them with the hammer. then to refit, a bunch of washers and tighten the new studs with the wheel nuts. works perfectly.
@@paintucation I understand , I have gotten them out with a brass hammer before not very big just tap each one.
2 whacks with a brass hammer will pop your studs out without damaging anything
Yeah I've always just hammered them out
Exactly. I could have them all out before he has one out. No damage.
Air chisel
I just use a 20 lb sledge for dump truck wheel studs. It's satisfying when you get it in one swing.
Hammer 🔨 works faster than a pitman arm puller lol
I always knocked them out with a shop hammer and put em back in with an oversized nut (for a spacer ) and a nut that fits with an impact wrench .... pulls the new 1 right in there.
You can install them with the lugnut just turn the tapered part out so you don't damage it
@@georgethompson4736if you use a Lisle wheel stud installer once, you’ll never go back.
It's like Saturday morning cartoons for us old fellas! Man I love this channel!
You got that right!
Without a doubt
Absolutely!
I've never pressed a wheel stud out or in. A smack with a hammer will knock it out and socket/washer/flat nut combo works great to press new ones in.
I was just thinking what the heck have I done wrong!
Me neither. One blow from a 2kg club hammer knocks them out, and few spacers for the wheelnut to bear against pulls the new stud into place. The tricky part can be that there isn't enough space behind the flange to get them out/in, which does make it necessary to pull the half-shaft out of the axle.
That evapo rust is awesome
I still love the fact after all these years and your dedicated service the automotive services history vehicles education and how to thank you for what you do
Thanks man!
Better living through modern chemistry! I would follow the Evapo-Rust with sandblasting. Works every time. Then clean & finish with a rust-inhibitor & paint. Good as new! Keep going on this Gen-2 F-body, I really love them.
Thanks!!! I'm excited about this one!
Mr. B. Here ! 🍩☕️👀😎👍 : Am not a fan of big wheels on classics or black but it’s your vehicle and it’s what you like ! Love trick for the lugs, but you still have to replace axle seals , piñon seal service rear gear oil ? ? ? From what you started with , it’s come pretty far from garage. I have used the rust remover from the beginning it was introduced. Great product ! Nice job over all ! 🍩☕️👀😎👍
Mr B, great question! Yes, gotta go through the axle completely, I just didn't wanna do it yet. Not the right time (for me) to take that bite of the elephant 🐘. I may polish the hoops on those wheels, keep the spokes black maybe. They are really good quality wheels, billet specialties, but I am not totally digging them all black either
Mr. B. Here ! Am olds school , you’ll make the right choice ! I know many have done it , but the Classic Chevy wheels do it for me , my 1976 GMC Sprint has from the factory Classic Wheel . My Olds Cutlass also a 1976 has wheel Super lll paint to match. Toll you am old school am ( 72 ) and stilling learning. 🍸🍸👀😎👍🇺🇸
I’m really liking this Camaro build. I owned a Camaro 40 years ago. I loved that car but along came marriage and children. You know how it goes. Thank you for this.
Thank you for your product testing and endorsements! Some of us may never restore a car, but every one of us will need a rust remover or protective coating or rattle can paint in the near future, so thanks for the little tips as well as providing top notch lessons on doing the big stuff!
As many times as I've gone through cars restored them, fix them up, refurbished them, whatever, I always always learn something new! What's really fun is discovering new things and being able to pass them on is just an added bonus. :-) thanks for watching! And thank you very much for the nice comments
Thank you Kevin.
Thanks for watching this channel!!
Kev you always have a positive attitude and you always make me laugh, which is important theses days , thanks🇦🇺
Evapo-Rust ROCKS!!! Especially for smaller pieces that can fit in an ultrasonic cleaner. It is safe on hands. I've been using it for about 3 years now and you can reuse it until it stops working. I buy the 5 gallon pail of it.
I get the same results for much less with citric acid powder (you can actually drink it). I keep a batch mixed up on my shop floor with a fish tank heater in a 2 gallon bucket then just drop parts in it as I need. Once it gets nasty I just mix up another batch maybe every month or so. Been working from the same gallon powder tub for a couple years now. Gotta love science!
So, where does one acquire citric acid powder?🤔
Greetings from NZ Kevin
I got inspired by you, Derek Bieri and Chris Slee and bought an old car-a 1954 Morris Minor 2 door split screen;I have fired the parts cannon at it and am well under way. Part of the job has been soaking parts in Evapo Rust,. Wow, what a product-first saw it on another channel 2 yrs ago, and have been soaking all nuts bolts washers and similar and am amazed at the results. Filter it thru large coffee filters and re use.
Hey man, I remember the old Morris Minor. My sister had one that my Dad and I fixed up for her. It was a Lo Light with the flat head Four in it. I don't recall the year. Anyway glad we inspired you!! Where in NZ are you?
I'm from Canada.... I remember those Minors!! We used to make "bush-buggies out of em... Cut the tops off, pull the doors and go up into old logging roads!! Those cars were great!!! "Parts Cannon".... Lol that's good!!! Thanks for watching!
@@paintucation Where did you live in Canada. I live in the West Kootenays.
Bloody wheel stud replacements there is never an easy way to do these. Kevin you are really entertaining whether, cutting, grinding, chiseling, polishing, welding all part of the experience, great when you hook up with Kiwi Chris and Derek VGG - Be safe and take care 👍🏎️
You see KT this is why every step of this build is worth sharing ! Nice hack ! . As I’ve told you in the past, I followed along with my build when you were building Zed Sled and I was step by step with you and everything I picked up on made my build so much better. So keep hitting us with these kind of videos because they make a huge difference. So from one British Columbian to another, thanks .
I'll make em if you keep watching! Say hi to BC for me!
That evaporust is good stuff. I have seen it used in many ways! Have seen it used with old bolts inside of a rusty gas tank to clean it out! Soak it for a day. Soak more I'd needed!
I got an A+ one semester in high school auto shop class for designing and fabricating a tool to press studs out without removing the axle, just like this hack. Mine had a "C" slot that clamped to the axle flange with set screws, and the threaded press stud was cupped at the end to fit over the stud to help keep it centered on the stud. It worked great ! That was 1978-79 ... I guess I should have gotten a patent and manufactured it for sale ! 😞 I see a lot of comments about just whacking them with a hammer ... Yeah, that works, and I have done it, but when they say " No Damage " ... That needs to be followed up with ... " That I know of ". Not worth the risk on these old cars an old rear ends/axles.
Absolute best way to drive these studs out is an Airhammer. As long as thers room behind, the airhammer drives them out with in seconds. Used that method for a very long time both on cars trucks but also heavy machinery.
Way I do it is put a nut half way on the stud to keep the chissel in place on the stud then drive it out with the airhammer in short bursts.
Regards from Sweden.
Next time.... I l try it
I use gallons of Evapo-Rust! I use paint filters and filter back into the bottles. I did have an old can of carb soak and stole the basket and a new paint can to dump fasteners in the basket and let them soak. I'll have to check out the Pickle X 20 spray in the future. I use denatured alcohol to prevent flash rust. When my step dad passed, he had loads of fasteners and I managed to soak them in Evapo-Rust and saved them for the ol' inventory. Can't have too many bolts! I kinda like the wheels, and better yet, they were already in inventory! Lisle tools has a lug bolt install gizmo to use to install a lug bolt using a lug nut. I like that tool you have better. I'm always afraid to strip a lug nut with too many uggs!
Hey Kevin! I'm really enjoying the videos. They're, in my opinion, better than the TV shows as far as depth of explanation of procedures. Great job here!
Just for giggles, it might be interesting to see what happens to the damaged seat track when it has an extended soak in the evaporust. Figure you can't hurt it anymore than it already is, and it'd be interesting to see what happens with, say, a weeklong soak...
Once again, great job and great videos! I look forward to seeing them!
Glad you like them! I am going to throw that super crusty one in there just to see what the heck happens. :-) thanks for watching!
I'm not a fan of black wheels of any kind, on any car, but that's just my set in my ways old guy opinion,
but I get why you put them on. I'm a little paranoid, I always go with 1/2 inch studs as a minimum,
and I don't trust them staying in place when the splines are drilled out, so I hit them with the welder...
That's a slick idea using the puller to push out the studs. I'd never heard of doing that before. 👍
I don't remember hearing what your plans are for the engine and trans. Are you going to keep the 10 bolt rear end ?
If you are, are you going to use the stock axles ?
Evaporust is good stuff. So much easier, and works better than trying to clean with a wire wheel or sander.
Gonna stick with the 10 bolt for sure. It's LSD and theyre, plenty strong enough for the power level I'll have. 400 HP ish.
A suggestion I saw on a different video (Ed China) is to take jugs (milk jugs, etc.) filled with water and place in the large container to raise the level of the expensive rust remover.
Aaaaah!!!! Displacement!!!!! Nice tip!!! Ed China is kind of brilliant. Thanks!
A good tip when marking zip bags is to use tape to write on. Keeps the writing a lot longer. Love this channel!!
That's a great idea! Thanks for watching.👍👍
@@paintucation I’m currently redoing a 1984 dodge 3/4 ton 250. This channel has helped me tremendously! I’m even going to paint the truck myself using your excellent tips! I thank you!!
Love the channel! Used to watch you on tv. Youre even more polished! Keep it up!
I find it ironic I didn't get to watch Paintucation until now. Why? My older son and I were doing some spot painting on his fiancé's car. He mostly did it, and I kept the shop stool warm. Came out great. As an aside - Evaposrust is awesome stuff - believe it or not - you can put your hands in it. Thank you as always - GREAT tip on the wheel lugs. I have one to do and you just made it a lot easier. Have a great week ~ Chuck
Thanks Chuck!!
Super cook , Doing some thing like this on my honda civic backyard build thanks for the good lessons and insperation to keep going 💫
Thanks learning more all the time. That's how this works. Always learning
Saturday morning always feels right to watch this stuff ... black wheels will look good with any color
Living in the stuff it will not hurt it 😊weeks fine😊
Good to know!!
“I’ve seen wheels come off … it ain’t pretty.”
In the late 70s, the rear axle of my 1965 GTO broke off at the hub as I was going down road. All I could see (beside the tire rolling past), were sparks flying everywhere in the rear view mirror. My life literally flashed before my eyes… I just KNEW I was skidding on the gas tank! Of course in reality it never got close to the tank and luckily I was only going about 30mph at time but the pucker factor was HUGE! No … not pretty indeed! 😂
And here i am i sweden and wonderd what evaporust did. Now i got the answer 😍
Haj!!!! You're welcome!!! Tell my friend Sebastian Ehager i said hello too!
Hey my guy that was cool idea, I seen a guy do that with a C clamp way back in the day, but I believe he destored the clamp somehow, anyway it great to see that we're still coming up with good ideas. Great show love to see you still going, and making cool rides. Be safe in your travels K!!
Evapo Rust Love that stuff! Nice one.
When you have a bath of fluid that doesn't cover the stuff, you can put more stuff in it to raise the fluid level. Plastic bottles with fluid, Chains, weights, or anything to increase the volume of the liquid to get it to cover. Evaporust is some amazing and awesome stuff.
The whole time I’m thinking go grab a brick or something from outside.
Always down to watch you go another round with this thing
Evaporust is imo the best thing to clean a old gas tank out with. i have used it on a few 70's-80's era motorcycle tanks and it wont start eating the metal like CLR will if it goes too long.ive left bolts in it for multiple days as a test and it doesnt eat the metal
Good to know!!! I was concerned about that
If you are planning a disc brake conversion to the rearend you may not need the spacers at all and I think you will have good clearance for the wheel & tire combo.
They sell that evap o rust in 5 gallon pails that allow you to let the items sit and soak for a while
Kevin don't let Derek taste that Evaporust like he does the oil 🤣👍
Those wheels, while not my style (I love steelies and dog dishes!), really suit the car. It gives a mean, pro-touring look. Been following for about a month now and am really digging the builds! - Jamie
Product testing Vise-Grips! we all love it!
I remember seeing you on TNN! Needless to say, I've subscribed
Thanks very much! Glad to have you aboard. :-)
I think the wheel "Spacers" are ok. The Wheel "Adapters" I will NEVER use again. I has one break on my Charger. 2-Evoporust is an excellent product. but a little Spendy. I use Vinegar with 10 % Molasses and that works really good. Good comment of re-using Evoporust.
I'm gonna try vinegar, lots suggested it! Thanks!
I really like the new shoes on the Garbage Camaro! Thats alot easier than pulling the axle! I just had to replace some studs on our daily driver from negligents done from a VA state inspection.
We use to screw lug nut on the use a bfh. Worked every time
I remember back in the day when it was USA slotted aluminum mags, Cragar SS Chrome 5 spokes, Centerlines and Weld Wheels....mainly 14" & 15"... 80 - 50 series tires.
The pitman arm puller trick will work better if you use a spacer made for pullers between the forcing screw and the piece you are pushing against. There is actually a spacer that is recessed on one side and has the dimple to seat and keep your forcing screw centered. Another thing I do when pulling and pressing with those types of pullers is to lubricate the threads of the puller with either Anti-seize or an extreme pressure grease (it not only lubricates the threads but keeps the heat down from the threads running under the higher pressure). I also lubricate the studs with an engine oil or transmission fluid where they press into the axle and also lubricate the studs themselves with either Anti seize or extreme pressure grease. This keeps the studs lubricated and also helps in not stretching the threads on the stud. The installing tool is OK as you need all the threads to engage to pull the stud through the axle flange. I never try this with dry threads on the studs or the puller tools especially the forcing threads on the puller. On those seat tracks as you most likely know the seat tracks never come painted from the factory and they will surface rust and with some lubrication they will work fine. Of course, I have seen seat tracks that have just plain rusted down due to the fact that the vehicle has been flooded or submerged or just left to rot for fifty years. They did clean up however and they will look fine painted with the color of your choice. Granted the lubrication gets a little messy but we can't have everything now can we.
Good stuff!!! Yeah, I'm making notes on your puller tips, thanks man!
We're living in an age of miracles. Water-based rust remover. Who would have thought?
Big improvement on the audio mixing. Good job!
I'm really loving the Camaro build. Looking forward to more videos and looking forward to se the Camaro completely done. Love your channel, Keep up the great work.
I have a can of evaporust that my dad bought 20 or so years ago to dip carbs. Still use it from time to time on stubborn small engine carbs. One can will last you a long time depending on how you use it.
I've upgraded to a ultrasonic cleaner but for some things the classic is just better.
I love how that tool you used to pull them in does the exact same thing as a spacer and a old lugnut in the exact same way. But somehow cost a bunch of money.
The thread land is really deep, so more engagement that a single lugnut (less stretch) and it cost $11.00. Not so bad.
That's a cool trick!
Thanks!!!! I thought so too!
that was fun to watch really enjoy this series
Great tip for the ball joint/pitman arm puller. I think I have three of those now from various yard sale trips. I could modify one for...whatever... Another bit of knowledge to tuck away.
Evapo-rust is a great product. I'm surprised you haven't used it before. Liquid Wrench or WD (can't remember now) has a version of this that I used several years ago to clean up an old 1959 50th anniversary Western Auto "Golden Flyer" bicycle. It is a one year only bike. All of the chrome parts were painted (?) with a gold (Golden Anniversary) transparent paint. The wheels took about a week to clean. I could only submerge a portion of the rim at a time, so I'd soak, rotate, soak until they were clean. It took off the rust but didn't harm the chrome or (what was left of) the gold coating. Cool old "tank" bike with dual headlights. I wish I could post a pic.
If it has an engine, wheels, gears, chains, sprockets or wings, I'm interested.
There are a variety of rust resolvers, of varying performance. Project farm has some reviews. As I recall the best ones are a type of phosphoric acid and leave the metal in good condition without immediate return of rust.
Hey Kev can we get (pie-in-the-sky) uploads twice a week? I find myself impatiently waiting and it's killing me!! 🤣
I would love to be able to do that!
@@paintucation Most shows just give highlights. You show us the non sexy stuff like this. Much appreciated!
All the guys hammering on the wheel studs, it works but it transfers forces to the gear set. And wheel bearings in the front. It's not the greatest thing to do, but it does work.
I was taught to use a press, whether it's a bench press or a pitman arm puller, it's still a press.
I use evapo-rust on my antique radio chassis.😊 BTW: You can reuse that stuff several times.
It works great!
For smaller parts i have the evaporust in a crockpot and heat the evaporust which removes the rust alot quicker
What I do differently is I scrub and rinse the parts in another container as to not add all the junk to the evaporust further contaminating it. You can use a paint strainer or coffee filter to strain it. If you let it sit undisturbed, most will settle to the bottom so you can pour off the clean evaporust into the jugs and not clog your filter.
Enjoying your content, thank you for bringing us along for the experiments!
Fantastic tips....
I really hope you go with kreggers in the back deep dish.And shallow dish in the front kragers are American racing one of the other.I really think they look great on those camaros.Or talk thrust rims look real good on those sweat bumper cars.Also, right now.I can't wait to see what you choose
Just the tip I need ,Sheared a few off my GTO. Been dwelling on one this for a while.
Imagine that evapo rust in a sonic cleaning device ! I can think of all kind of uses for it !!
In the beginning when you roll up your sleeve all I saw was you flexing a pimple 🤣 but seriously folks I'm glad you can take a joke and give one and like I said before I would help you if I could be there buddy 🇺🇸👍
I'm more of a fan of just taking the axles out and taking the wheel studs and having them pressed in. I've heard that sucking the studs through like that can stretch them and leave a weak point in the shank of the stud that causes them to snap easier. I've also watched video of someone trying to do it this way and stripping the threads off the studs. (Roadkill)
I'm still a huge fan of the Ralleye wheels, I know a few companies make them in larger sizes and aluminum. I guess that's also showing my love of the 68-70 Cutlass.
Yeah, Evaporust seems to be worth the incredible price.. I've seen someone take an old revolver that was a huge chunk of rust and leave it in that stuff for a few days and pull it out and the cylinder was able to turn freely, the door for putting in rounds/ejecting the cases was able to move freely, the extractor rod was able to move freely and the hammer and trigger were able to move freely. The only thing it didn't fix was the springs for the trigger and hammer which were so rusty they snapped. The interesting thing they found out was it was actually loaded.
Deep pitted rust still needs a media blasting cabinet though.
Kevin putting new wheeels on the Camaro when the rest of it looks like it does, reminds me of the movie Christine.
Will Darnell:""Just look how cockeyed he works Pepper, new windshield wipers on a busted windshield."
Pepper Boyd:"The boy is good with his hands..."
Will Darnell:"Mmm, Yeah but bad taste in cars.".......😂😂😂😂
Keep up the good videos Kevin.
Now if we could get Evapo-Rust on board as a channel sponsor we'd be all set, might Evapo the whole car though.
Actually that's an amazing and brilliant idea! A dip tank big enough for a whole vehicle.
Small mirror comes in handy too see tight spaces
I love Evaporust. I use a 5-gallon bucket, put my rusty stuff in it, then fill it as far as needed to cover the parts. i have about 4 gallons of the stuff. i then filter it and reuse it. it does lose some potency after a while, but i have the original 4 gallons i bought about 3 years ago and it still works pretty good. i used it to remove the rust form a set of very rusty, and old 461x camel hump heads so i could get them disassembled and get the valves out of them, worked like a charm. i was afraid i would have to drive the valves out with a hammer. but after 3 days were pretty rust free. one trick i use for soaking stuff that is too big to fit in my bucket is to get heavy duty plastic liner bags, like the kind they use in a 55gallon drum. put my parts in it. fill it with evaporate, then squeeze the air out of it, and zip tie it off that way, large, odd, shaped parts can be fully covered with a minimal amount of chemical used.
Evoporust works great ... I've used it for years restoring old rusted hand tools. For those odd shape or long items, I usually make a quick 2x4 frame and then line with a trash bag.
Great tip!
Kevin, if you want to see some Evaporust action (along with a really cool channel), check out Hand Tool Rescue. He's a Canadian fellow with a wonderful sense of humor who restores old tools (and makes some of his own). He does beautiful work, and he has (what looks like) a 55-gallon drum of Evaporust that he puts to good use in every video. Can't recommend this channel highly enough! Love your channel... love your videos!
thx Kevin
A quick tip on the Vice Grips… should be an Allen head on the end of the knob to tighten… It’ll can get em some kinda tight!
Noted!!!!!!! Thanks!
I use evaporust all the time it works great. One suggestion so you don’t waste so much product is to use a smaller bucket since the items are long and skinny you could insert them into a smaller bucket and then when it’s finished, flip them over and do the other end.
Love your channel 😊
Great video
Evaporust works great!
Kevin if you had some clean pebble gravel or some clean bricks you could have put that in the plastic pan to rise the level of the Evapo-Rust to cover the seat rails.
Made my morning!
Thanks buddy!
I understand that there are plenty of ways to remove wheel studs, however, I have NEVER removed wheel studs with anything besides a sledge hammer. I only install with my old MAC wheel studs installer kit. Both work wonders and I've never had any issues!!!
I bought a 77’ Chevy K10 years ago with aftermarket wheels, the owner left the original studs in.
One day i noticed a lugnut missing and then noticed the short stud, turns out each lugnut was only grabbing 3/16” of the stud end…
I drove that truck 80+ MPH home from Glenwood Iowa. Lol
Eventually i installed deep reach lug nuts to go into the wheel deeper and grab more of the stud.
I wanted longer studs but couldn’t find anything long studs in that small diameter the K10 uses.
Many years later, no more lugnuts have fallen off.
You gotta put that 4th track into the solution! Gotta see if it will take it and clean it!
Heard!!!!! Gonna do it. We'll make a "short" and show it.👍
Put them in zip lock style bags so you can keep them in evaporust and push all the air out it works great and keeps the amount you have to buy
50/50 white vinegar and water will do the same thing, maybe even some lemon juice added. And it’s way cheaper than that stuff. And, if you don’t have enough for the bucket or whatever your putting it in, add some big rocks or pieces of brick to bring the mix level higher in the container.
I will have to try that!
Hello Kevin, need to do the same wheel stud change on my 81 Z28. Do you have a part number or link that you used for the new wheel studs? Also, what thread pitch did you use? Thanks in advance!
Scott, The studs I used are Moroso... Got em from SUMMIT RACING. www.summitracing.com/parts/MSR-8050
7/16-20 pitch
You could put a plastic bag filled with rocks or a brick or anything and put it the tub of Evaporust in between the parts to displace some volume to raise the level so all the parts are covered.
Hit that like button for the man
Thank you sir! Thank you very much. :-)
Couple of thoughts, Personally I just drive the stud out with a good whack of the hammer , that is me though and it works for me.... On the last stud where the head mushrooms you could avoid that by installing an old open face nut on the tip this will stop the stud from mushrooming, once the stud is free you remove the nut and you can take the loose stud out.
I wonder if they make a spacer that would have a new hub centric ring on it extending the Shaft ring out further so that the rim uses the ring and the studs making a stronger mounting point.
I just went through this with my 93 Mustang I wanted to go with 3 inch wheel studs, but I could only fit 2 1/2 in the rears without removing the axles, but I got it done
Put a lug nut on it right at the end so it doesn’t mushroom, them whack the lug nut with the hammer. To put the new ones in, just stack washers and put lug nut on. Tighten it down and pulls it right in
Since back in the mid to late 1980's if your replacing them we just used a hammer.and used a lug nut with spacer if needed and tighten them till seated .may not be proper but eorks
I know you for so many years and Saturday mornings power power whatever that thing was power block that I gotta give you tones up, brother
Evaporust is safe, and it's awesome
Was just wondering did you use the same thickness on the wheel spacers lh and rh because if i remember right gm has the axle off -set .
Yup, same.
Kevin, you can use vinegar too, it's super cheap, 3.50 a gallon at Wal-mart.
Gonna try that!