Thanks 1A Auto, this video helped me get my 97 Volvo 850 project rolling again. I never needed the T-47 socket, as my caliper slider pins were all 6mm Allen/Hex (Volvo might have changed it 98 onward). If you live in the rust belt, be prepared to disconnect the control arm and tie rod end so as to remove the knuckle from the car. My rotors/hubs/knuckles were so bonded, a machine shop had to separate them. Take great care to not wrench sloppy on the E-14 hub bolts. They damage VERY easily.
If you follow the video all of the correct steps are in place. Sometimes when we shoot a video we'll use a segmant of it for another repair. Which may have happened in this case. The steps in the video are correct though.
I strongly recommend just prior to removing the 4 bearing bolts, turn the bearing by hand and feel for smoothness - this is with the axle shaft and brake disc removed. The bearing should offer a smooth resistance to turning. Even a tiny bit of roughness is not that bad. Also, if you force on those bearing bolts, be sure to replace with new ones, these are stretch type and you don't want to see your wheel driving faster than your car at some point ;) Also, my bearing took exactly 3 hours of HARD hammering and chiseling to come out :) The one in the video has been surely already replaced in the recent past. If you hit the bearing even just ONCE with the hammer, do NOT put the wheel back and drive, the bearing plate where the wheel lugs are secured is already even so slightly bent (not visible to the eye) and your wheel lugs will break loose while you drive: ask me how I know (or better don't, I don't want to remember). So as soon as you hit the wheel bearing with a hammer, it HAS to be replaced, no question and no fooling around. You are definitely better off using a heavy slide hammer with a putter attached to the bearing, or better off, bring the wheel spindle to a shop to press the bearing out. Do NOT use a puller than is pushing against the center of the axle shaft, you may damage the transmission internal carrier bearing and may also damage the outer CV joint. Use copper anti seize inside the spindle bore before reinstalling the new bearing
Great Video. However I never remove the strut bolts, ball joint bolts etc. You can access the bearing hub bolts with a little skill and remove center driveshaft bolt, after brake rotor and bearing bolts removed simply tap the axle back a bit and start pounding the bearing out of the knuckle by hitting the hub flange and it can be easily removed with alot less effort. If bearing hub assy is frozen use good stuff like PB blaster and spray around knuckle. You could also use air chisel blunt end to help jar it loose. I do those bearings quick and easy not taking things apart that are not necessary. Just my 2 cents from an expert
Thanks for your advice Tom. I'm trying this job today. Not sure how tight the space is on the 4 bolts that hold the bearing hub, my E-sockets are a little long (Pittsburg Harbor Freight).
Correct, the axle shaft needs kept pushed back as much as possible to clear the bolts heads The two bolts on the caliper side go with 18mm wrench and a second wrench coupled for extra torque th-cam.com/video/d7f5l_d0Eq8/w-d-xo.html The two rear bolts go with 18mm short socket and 3inch extension on 3/8 drive ratchet but it takes a strong quality ratchet with a long handle - not all 3/8 ratchets can take such treatment and same for the coupled wrenches, it may not be enough to loosen the bolts. It think it's much easier to remove or toss the axle shaft
I managed to do all this without taking the struts off or even loose, did not touch them. Neither did I take off the stabilizer bar linkages. Only the steering link needs to come off. I also took the caliper off as one piece, by removing the bracket first and then the whole thing comes up if you like together with the brake disc. The four Etorx bolts were extremely tight, they can even brake off as you are trying to undo, I had to use some heat to get them loose, then I just cut through them with angle grinder. New bolts needed, use threadlocker.
+Bjorn Candell You should get an alignment after replacing the struts. If any of our viewers need to repair their Volvo S70 we carry a lot of auto repair parts for them. Here is a link to them on our website, we also offer free shipping www.1aauto.com/volvo-s70-parts/mo/565
Yes once you remove the strut from the knuckle, it will require you to get an alignment. Before you remove the strut, what you can do is scribe a line around the edge on the strut bracket on the knuckle using something like a flat head screwdriver. When you re-attach the strut back to the knuckle, match it up to the scribed line, that that will help to keep the car somewhat aligned until you can get a proper alignment done at a tire shop. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
I felt the same Kevin, it looks like he turns the strut 180 degrees to free up space so you can get to the hub bolts, put I do not understand why he torques them down..... Perhaps just so that he can put som burden when he is banging out the old hub with the hammer?
+genessa blauvelt Thank you for checking us out. You should be able to use some of the steps in this video, but the procedure for your S80 will be slightly different. 1aauto.com
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Thanks 1A Auto, this video helped me get my 97 Volvo 850 project rolling again. I never needed the T-47 socket, as my caliper slider pins were all 6mm Allen/Hex (Volvo might have changed it 98 onward). If you live in the rust belt, be prepared to disconnect the control arm and tie rod end so as to remove the knuckle from the car. My rotors/hubs/knuckles were so bonded, a machine shop had to separate them. Take great care to not wrench sloppy on the E-14 hub bolts. They damage VERY easily.
If you follow the video all of the correct steps are in place. Sometimes when we shoot a video we'll use a segmant of it for another repair. Which may have happened in this case. The steps in the video are correct though.
Thanks a hell alot for this superb explained tutorial.
Did this today and wow the car does not sound like a rattling jet engine anymore.
I strongly recommend just prior to removing the 4 bearing bolts, turn the bearing by hand and feel for smoothness - this is with the axle shaft and brake disc removed. The bearing should offer a smooth resistance to turning. Even a tiny bit of roughness is not that bad. Also, if you force on those bearing bolts, be sure to replace with new ones, these are stretch type and you don't want to see your wheel driving faster than your car at some point ;) Also, my bearing took exactly 3 hours of HARD hammering and chiseling to come out :) The one in the video has been surely already replaced in the recent past. If you hit the bearing even just ONCE with the hammer, do NOT put the wheel back and drive, the bearing plate where the wheel lugs are secured is already even so slightly bent (not visible to the eye) and your wheel lugs will break loose while you drive: ask me how I know (or better don't, I don't want to remember). So as soon as you hit the wheel bearing with a hammer, it HAS to be replaced, no question and no fooling around. You are definitely better off using a heavy slide hammer with a putter attached to the bearing, or better off, bring the wheel spindle to a shop to press the bearing out. Do NOT use a puller than is pushing against the center of the axle shaft, you may damage the transmission internal carrier bearing and may also damage the outer CV joint. Use copper anti seize inside the spindle bore before reinstalling the new bearing
Great Video. However I never remove the strut bolts, ball joint bolts etc. You can access the bearing hub bolts with a little skill and remove center driveshaft bolt, after brake rotor and bearing bolts removed simply tap the axle back a bit and start pounding the bearing out of the knuckle by hitting the hub flange and it can be easily removed with alot less effort. If bearing hub assy is frozen use good stuff like PB blaster and spray around knuckle. You could also use air chisel blunt end to help jar it loose. I do those bearings quick and easy not taking things apart that are not necessary. Just my 2 cents from an expert
Thanks for your advice Tom. I'm trying this job today. Not sure how tight the space is on the 4 bolts that hold the bearing hub, my E-sockets are a little long (Pittsburg Harbor Freight).
seems tight, tom, trying to get the torx sockets on the 4 hub bolts......... do you turn the wheel and back the axle out a bit to get better access?
Correct, the axle shaft needs kept pushed back as much as possible to clear the bolts heads
The two bolts on the caliper side go with 18mm wrench and a second wrench coupled for extra torque th-cam.com/video/d7f5l_d0Eq8/w-d-xo.html
The two rear bolts go with 18mm short socket and 3inch extension on 3/8 drive ratchet but it takes a strong quality ratchet with a long handle - not all 3/8 ratchets can take such treatment and same for the coupled wrenches, it may not be enough to loosen the bolts. It think it's much easier to remove or toss the axle shaft
I managed to do all this without taking the struts off or even loose, did not touch them. Neither did I take off the stabilizer bar linkages. Only the steering link needs to come off. I also took the caliper off as one piece, by removing the bracket first and then the whole thing comes up if you like together with the brake disc. The four Etorx bolts were extremely tight, they can even brake off as you are trying to undo, I had to use some heat to get them loose, then I just cut through them with angle grinder. New bolts needed, use threadlocker.
To replace the wheelbearing,why didn't you just removed the lower control arm from the spindel?way easier than fiddling with the strut 👍😁
The part number for this part in the video is Part #TKSHS00369 on 1aauto.com or you can call our sales line @ 888-844-3393
Hi, Great video! Is it not required to make a wheel alignment after you had the strut loose?
+Bjorn Candell You should get an alignment after replacing the struts. If any of our viewers need to repair their Volvo S70 we carry a lot of auto repair parts for them. Here is a link to them on our website, we also offer free shipping www.1aauto.com/volvo-s70-parts/mo/565
do you need to do an alignment after this?
Yes once you remove the strut from the knuckle, it will require you to get an alignment. Before you remove the strut, what you can do is scribe a line around the edge on the strut bracket on the knuckle using something like a flat head screwdriver. When you re-attach the strut back to the knuckle, match it up to the scribed line, that that will help to keep the car somewhat aligned until you can get a proper alignment done at a tire shop. Hope this helps you out. 1aauto.com 888-844-3393
The later years after 98 were ford built volvos .. When they added design changes to the cars
Weird thing, out of place, at around 7:30
I felt the same Kevin, it looks like he turns the strut 180 degrees to free up space so you can get to the hub bolts, put I do not understand why he torques them down..... Perhaps just so that he can put som burden when he is banging out the old hub with the hammer?
What a mess. Too many shots of Dave's back and arms and not enough close shots of the car.
good job
you can remove that spike. its not crucial for anything
Sorry a 2000 Volvo s80?
+genessa blauvelt Thank you for checking us out. You should be able to use some of the steps in this video, but the procedure for your S80 will be slightly different. 1aauto.com