Lance, I love that you're explaining the basics. Because my dad works with wood, I know what a biscuit is, but so many people need teachers to start from the very beginning. This is great!
Thanks Leah! I'm one of those that needs step-by-step instructions too. I'd rather hear all the basics than skip some important step! We really appreciate the feedback, thanks for watching!
Good job! This was a very useful video as I plan on doing mine too soon. It was very helpful seeing how the counter came off and what held it in place. Its scary to work on RVs as they are so fragile. Thank you! Some ideas I want to share: 1. I used to think biscuit joining was a strong bond, but after reading this blog, not so sure anymore. Apparently, gluing up the boards is sufficiently strong. Some cauls during gluing will evenly distribute force for glue. Cauls are support strips used with the clamps. Improvise with some wood laying around. The biscuit joiner is the least used tool in your garage and I don't think its worth the money. They often don't line up either. I would advise against acquiring a took that is seldom used. 2. The propane torch I use has auto ignition and costs $40 at Home Depot. Great tool!!! I use it for vaporizing old cobwebs (please don't hurt spiders or new webs), killing off weeds, softening up old paint on wood before stripping, toasting wood either lightly or full on shou sugi ban, and of course, creme brulee in the kitchen. Super useful tool. 3. I like to age wood using an angle grinder ($119 new, $79 refurbished Bosch 5", paddle switch, variable speed, dual handle, and Leave On button). Great tool, best tool in my workshop. I buy Wire Cup (not Wheel) Brush attachments from Harbor Freight for $5. You can get the Crimped or Knotted - both are very useful. These not only remove rust, polish metal, but also 'sand' the wood aggressively. The wire brush eats away at the soft parts of the wood and leaves the hard grain standing out. It gives wood texture and depth, especially on edges and corners. Glue, then sand down any large splinters which may form. Edges should be very textured but not snag on clothing or poke you. MUST WEAR GOGGLES ($2 at HF) and apron for metal wires flying off. DO NOT DO THIS WITHOUT EYE PROTECTION. This wire brush also strips wood much faster and cheaper than my hand sander, if I am removing paint or old finish. Don't use this on fine furniture, and finish off with regular sander on furniture. 4. Also useful is the Nylon cup brush for final 'sanding' to remove burrs from furrows or for softer applications. Do not exceed 2500 RPM or Nylon will melt. 5. Finish up with propane torch to burn off any fine burr hairs from the wire brush technique and splinters, and to warm up a white wood like pine. Softer woods like pine, fir, spruce, redwood, cedar give lovely aged effects. Harder tighter grain like mahogany, oak, do not. These softer woods when toasted, enhance the natural grain pattern. Don't try to burn beech, maple, oak, or similar - you get spotty results, that look like camouflage - not pretty. 6. Varathane Oil Stains like Classic or Slate Grey + Dark Walnut or English Chestnut work best for aging wood. I like to finish off with Varathane Oil based Satin Clear Interior Polyurethane thinned 50/50 with Mineral Spirits or Paint Thinner - 2 - 5 coats. Brush this in with a cheap brush, forcing it into the crevices. After 15 mins, wipe off excess with paper towels. Let dry for 2-3 hrs till completely dry then recoat. The end result is water proof, chip proof, stain proof, mold proof and very durable. Thinning it out, makes it soak into wood to strengthen it. I thought I would share this. I did an IKEA pine table and it turned out very well. Now I plan to do this finish on on my RV kitchen counter which will be built with pine boards, for a rustic French Provencal Farmhouse effect. These tools are extremely useful every day. Don't hesitate.
@@rachelnaber2773 - Nice! We are 98% done with the interior and still trying to figure out if we should upgrade the exterior or just leave it alone? This has been our biggest DIY challenge ever.
We just bought some thin trim board and stained it the same color as the countertop, the trim board was a deep, grainy looking wood and the stain made it pop. The backsplash wall was just peel and stick subway tile. - Jenny and Lance
Hi Corey - it depends on the counter space and the look you want. We wanted a wider look and went with 8 inch but you may have to rip the wood lengthwise to make it fit. We ended up cutting the boards down to 6 1/2 inches before putting them together so all the boards would be the same width and look once installed. Hope this helps! - Lance and Jenny
You did this the hard way....just rip the old countertops off with a heavy hammer, the screws just pop out of the old partical board countertops, then grind off screws sticking up with grinder. Takes 30 seconds! Also use corian instead of wood. Corian is great, easy to work, saw, route out sinks, and sand and polish. easy peesie. I find used corian from folks remodeling cheap!
great video! but you say under $100..... no way i know this vid is before biden an covid but now its cheaper to just buy a butcher block counter top an cut it up
Lance, I love that you're explaining the basics. Because my dad works with wood, I know what a biscuit is, but so many people need teachers to start from the very beginning. This is great!
Looks great!
Thanks Leah! I'm one of those that needs step-by-step instructions too. I'd rather hear all the basics than skip some important step! We really appreciate the feedback, thanks for watching!
We are changing out our rv countertops too! We need something lightweight but also stylish. Love your rv! -Ben and Ang
Thanks guys and good luck! It was a fun project and they are still looking great a year later after full time use.
Good job! This was a very useful video as I plan on doing mine too soon. It was very helpful seeing how the counter came off and what held it in place. Its scary to work on RVs as they are so fragile. Thank you!
Some ideas I want to share:
1. I used to think biscuit joining was a strong bond, but after reading this blog, not so sure anymore. Apparently, gluing up the boards is sufficiently strong. Some cauls during gluing will evenly distribute force for glue. Cauls are support strips used with the clamps. Improvise with some wood laying around. The biscuit joiner is the least used tool in your garage and I don't think its worth the money. They often don't line up either. I would advise against acquiring a took that is seldom used.
2. The propane torch I use has auto ignition and costs $40 at Home Depot. Great tool!!! I use it for vaporizing old cobwebs (please don't hurt spiders or new webs), killing off weeds, softening up old paint on wood before stripping, toasting wood either lightly or full on shou sugi ban, and of course, creme brulee in the kitchen. Super useful tool.
3. I like to age wood using an angle grinder ($119 new, $79 refurbished Bosch 5", paddle switch, variable speed, dual handle, and Leave On button). Great tool, best tool in my workshop. I buy Wire Cup (not Wheel) Brush attachments from Harbor Freight for $5. You can get the Crimped or Knotted - both are very useful. These not only remove rust, polish metal, but also 'sand' the wood aggressively. The wire brush eats away at the soft parts of the wood and leaves the hard grain standing out. It gives wood texture and depth, especially on edges and corners. Glue, then sand down any large splinters which may form. Edges should be very textured but not snag on clothing or poke you. MUST WEAR GOGGLES ($2 at HF) and apron for metal wires flying off. DO NOT DO THIS WITHOUT EYE PROTECTION. This wire brush also strips wood much faster and cheaper than my hand sander, if I am removing paint or old finish. Don't use this on fine furniture, and finish off with regular sander on furniture.
4. Also useful is the Nylon cup brush for final 'sanding' to remove burrs from furrows or for softer applications. Do not exceed 2500 RPM or Nylon will melt.
5. Finish up with propane torch to burn off any fine burr hairs from the wire brush technique and splinters, and to warm up a white wood like pine. Softer woods like pine, fir, spruce, redwood, cedar give lovely aged effects. Harder tighter grain like mahogany, oak, do not. These softer woods when toasted, enhance the natural grain pattern. Don't try to burn beech, maple, oak, or similar - you get spotty results, that look like camouflage - not pretty.
6. Varathane Oil Stains like Classic or Slate Grey + Dark Walnut or English Chestnut work best for aging wood. I like to finish off with Varathane Oil based Satin Clear Interior Polyurethane thinned 50/50 with Mineral Spirits or Paint Thinner - 2 - 5 coats. Brush this in with a cheap brush, forcing it into the crevices. After 15 mins, wipe off excess with paper towels. Let dry for 2-3 hrs till completely dry then recoat. The end result is water proof, chip proof, stain proof, mold proof and very durable. Thinning it out, makes it soak into wood to strengthen it.
I thought I would share this. I did an IKEA pine table and it turned out very well. Now I plan to do this finish on on my RV kitchen counter which will be built with pine boards, for a rustic French Provencal Farmhouse effect. These tools are extremely useful every day. Don't hesitate.
Wow! Such great tips, thanks for sharing and the recommendations on materials and supplies, this helps so much.
Thanks! I just inherited a new to me motorhome and was looking for counter top ideas and this is perfect!
Hi Rachel - this was an easy DIY job and we really love the unique look and outcome. What type of motorhome did you inherit?
@@CrazyEmptyNest I got a 1993 Trek Safari it needs some updating too
@@rachelnaber2773 - Nice! We are 98% done with the interior and still trying to figure out if we should upgrade the exterior or just leave it alone? This has been our biggest DIY challenge ever.
Crazy Empty Nest I think I’ll have mine done but in the original paint job.
Thanks! looking for a good countertop ideas this would work great for our build see you in the next one!👍✨
Thanks! We hope it helps or at least gives you some ideas.
Beautiful upgrade! Jenny - where did you get that amazing tshirt (sun/moon/universe/1976)? That kinda says it all! Thanks for all your videos, guys.
Thank you! Sorry that shirts a hand me down from my daughter😅so I don’t remember where she got it
That sax music sounds like "Jimmy Sax". He has a channel here on TH-cam.
What color of paint did you use on your cabinets. Please!
What did you use for the backslash
We just bought some thin trim board and stained it the same color as the countertop, the trim board was a deep, grainy looking wood and the stain made it pop. The backsplash wall was just peel and stick subway tile. - Jenny and Lance
@@CrazyEmptyNest Thank you, your kitchen renovation is beautiful.
Hello, what size and type of wood did you use?
Hi Corey - it depends on the counter space and the look you want. We wanted a wider look and went with 8 inch but you may have to rip the wood lengthwise to make it fit. We ended up cutting the boards down to 6 1/2 inches before putting them together so all the boards would be the same width and look once installed. Hope this helps! - Lance and Jenny
You did this the hard way....just rip the old countertops off with a heavy hammer, the screws just pop out of the old partical board countertops, then grind off screws sticking up with grinder. Takes 30 seconds! Also use corian instead of wood. Corian is great, easy to work, saw, route out sinks, and sand and polish. easy peesie. I find used corian from folks remodeling cheap!
What was the name of the stain you used?
great video! but you say under $100..... no way i know this vid is before biden an covid but now its cheaper to just buy a butcher block counter top an cut it up
Your wife is beautiful