I have an M1 and no way mines cut at 2 speed 8mm thick in 2 minutes. I think I heard you say that you have a 10w? That is what I have, i'm wondering if mines is defective. It take hours for me to engrave something let alone cutting. I do have an air assist I wonder if that has something to do with it? Any tips would be appreciated.
@@fayebell9856Hi Faye, yes I have 10w version. What size engraving is taking hours? You should be able to run it at max speed for most engravings. Mine I actually need to turn the power down sometimes even at max speed. Are you having the machine measure for thickness or doing it manually? I find the auto-measure to be pretty inaccurate so I always measure manually. One last question, what materials are you trying to engrave/cut? Plywood seems far more difficult to cut than solid wood.
I loved this video and your voice over was very nice. I have an M1 and i am so shocked at your results. im newer to laser cutting and engraving and to wood knowlege in general; I've always been handy and can do some wood projects and love it. I usually use plys and bass to cut because thats what i commonly see being used. What power do you use? i'm trying to cut a 5mm lauan ply and its burning alot and burns more on the second pass and still not cutting cleanly. any advice?
Hello there, thanks so much for watching and for the kind words. So before getting into anything else I will say that plywood is tricky. Most people think it will cut easier than hardwood but the opposite is actually true, at least for diode lasers. The problem is the layers of glue between the wood layers. I'd wager that you could get through the same thickness hardwood much easier/cleaner than plywood. Basswood should be super easy to get through. Anyhow, my default settings are speed 5, 2-3 passes and 100% power. This is for a hardwood thickness of 6-8mm and depends on the species. Some wood species will naturally cut cleaner than others. BTW we run the 10w version of this machine and use the air assist kit for cleaner cuts on thicker stock.
@@ArtisansAndArthropods well thank you so so much! I really appreciate the time you took to give me such a knowledge filled and awesome response. From my basic knowledge, you have confirmed some thoughts. I need to look into better resources for my projects other than big box stores. Yes basswood is a breeze. I’m so glad I found your content. Now let me go make sure I’m subscribed
@@tiffanywilliams7700 No problem at all! Thank you for the support =) I have recently become aware (thanks to a subscriber) that Etsy is a good place to find shops that sell stock material for laser cutters and engravers. I have seen some mix packs of wood on there so that could be a good way to learn about which hardwoods work best with the laser. I think the ultimate freedom is in having a bandsaw so that you can prep your own stock to whatever thickness.
@@tiffanywilliams7700 Of course, what did you have in mind? We have done a few already but always open to ideas for new projects. I'll link them below. Xmas Ornaments - th-cam.com/video/lOXPpkEOREQ/w-d-xo.html Magnet Puzzle - th-cam.com/video/qQNnMNkm7Dc/w-d-xo.html Lasered Clock - th-cam.com/video/L0CJXB05kgs/w-d-xo.html
Hi Jackie, from what I've read this machine can cut opaque acrylic , but white in particular may be a problem. It seems that diode lasers like the M1 cannot cut clear acrylic and certain opaque colors. I thought this video was great th-cam.com/video/zYkdu4QfmTc/w-d-xo.html I think for acrylic in particular a CO2 laser would be the better choice. Be sure to exhaust outdoors because the fumes off of burnt acrylic are harmful.
Any other Xtool M1/D1 users out there? Let us know what you are cranking out with your machine in the comments!
I have an M1 and no way mines cut at 2 speed 8mm thick in 2 minutes. I think I heard you say that you have a 10w? That is what I have, i'm wondering if mines is defective. It take hours for me to engrave something let alone cutting. I do have an air assist I wonder if that has something to do with it? Any tips would be appreciated.
@@fayebell9856Hi Faye, yes I have 10w version. What size engraving is taking hours? You should be able to run it at max speed for most engravings. Mine I actually need to turn the power down sometimes even at max speed. Are you having the machine measure for thickness or doing it manually? I find the auto-measure to be pretty inaccurate so I always measure manually. One last question, what materials are you trying to engrave/cut? Plywood seems far more difficult to cut than solid wood.
@@ArtisansAndArthropods77😅9
I loved this video and your voice over was very nice. I have an M1 and i am so shocked at your results. im newer to laser cutting and engraving and to wood knowlege in general; I've always been handy and can do some wood projects and love it.
I usually use plys and bass to cut because thats what i commonly see being used. What power do you use? i'm trying to cut a 5mm lauan ply and its burning alot and burns more on the second pass and still not cutting cleanly. any advice?
Hello there, thanks so much for watching and for the kind words. So before getting into anything else I will say that plywood is tricky. Most people think it will cut easier than hardwood but the opposite is actually true, at least for diode lasers. The problem is the layers of glue between the wood layers. I'd wager that you could get through the same thickness hardwood much easier/cleaner than plywood. Basswood should be super easy to get through. Anyhow, my default settings are speed 5, 2-3 passes and 100% power. This is for a hardwood thickness of 6-8mm and depends on the species. Some wood species will naturally cut cleaner than others. BTW we run the 10w version of this machine and use the air assist kit for cleaner cuts on thicker stock.
@@ArtisansAndArthropods well thank you so so much! I really appreciate the time you took to give me such a knowledge filled and awesome response. From my basic knowledge, you have confirmed some thoughts. I need to look into better resources for my projects other than big box stores. Yes basswood is a breeze. I’m so glad I found your content. Now let me go make sure I’m subscribed
@@tiffanywilliams7700 No problem at all! Thank you for the support =) I have recently become aware (thanks to a subscriber) that Etsy is a good place to find shops that sell stock material for laser cutters and engravers. I have seen some mix packs of wood on there so that could be a good way to learn about which hardwoods work best with the laser. I think the ultimate freedom is in having a bandsaw so that you can prep your own stock to whatever thickness.
@@ArtisansAndArthropods you rock!!
would you be willing to do a video specifically addressing wood for projects for the M1? just curious.thanks again
@@tiffanywilliams7700 Of course, what did you have in mind? We have done a few already but always open to ideas for new projects. I'll link them below.
Xmas Ornaments - th-cam.com/video/lOXPpkEOREQ/w-d-xo.html
Magnet Puzzle -
th-cam.com/video/qQNnMNkm7Dc/w-d-xo.html
Lasered Clock -
th-cam.com/video/L0CJXB05kgs/w-d-xo.html
Can you cut white arcrylic.
Hi Jackie, from what I've read this machine can cut opaque acrylic , but white in particular may be a problem. It seems that diode lasers like the M1 cannot cut clear acrylic and certain opaque colors. I thought this video was great th-cam.com/video/zYkdu4QfmTc/w-d-xo.html I think for acrylic in particular a CO2 laser would be the better choice. Be sure to exhaust outdoors because the fumes off of burnt acrylic are harmful.