That lathe and all that material being donated by your dad's friend, who is also a fan of your channel (if I recall that correctly), has been a game changer for you and your channel. And your self confidence in your machining and what you are willing to tackle has improved exponentially since I first began watching your content. Keep up the great work Chris!!!
From my understanding, whatever the motor is rated at is a continuous rating. If you can get a battery pack/controller combo that can burst a lot of current, you can make more than what the motor is rated for until our friend heat slows things down. To make 12kW at 72V, you need 167 amps continuous. Can't wait to follow this build. Love your content!
correct! although some manufacturers give you the peak performance (QS is one of those if I recall correctly). Peak performance is, like you said, a burst of energy that's going to heat up the controller/battery/motor in mere seconds, that's why you can't run an electric motor constantly on peak performance, that's what rated performance is for. On the rated performance, your motor will run constantly without overheating and any collateral damage. There are a few techniques to "upgrade" your motor, eg using ferrofluids and/or heat sinks on your motor (even on hubs, look it up). It'll heat a lot slower. There are a few videos about changing the phase wires and giving more current to the engine, but you need the extra cooling for it to not to cook it. In my experience, usually the battery max current is the limiting factor, you need a whole lot of cells in parallel and series to get the adequate currant and voltage. But hopefully in a few years there will be "better" and cheaper battery cells to propel these machines I hope I could add to your comment!
LOL... I was about to write the same comment. 167 x 72V = 12,000 (ish). You can use ohms law ible check the resistance of the motor and calculate the max possible wattage. I don't know a lot about these motors, but I would think that if you want to run 167 amps for more than a few seconds, you're going to need cooling ... and I don't see any cooling other than the case of the motor.
Depending on the quality of the cells that you have on your battery, the capacity can be higher with the same size, some cells have higher energy density. But most of the time manufacturers are lying a bit about the capacity, adding a few Ah on the listing so you'll buy theirs. A 8kW mountain bike (even if it is 8kW peak power and not nominal power) will be absolutely crazy, a friend of mine built a 5kw peak (3kW nominal) mountain bike with a 27.5 inch wheel and it goes 50 mph easily. The real downside of those hub motor is gearing, the only way to change it is buy changing the size of the wheel. If you have any question on power consumption, estimating range, regenerative braking... i will be happy to help you.
These motors are seriously underrated in terms of power for their application. Many people will run 8kw motors at 20+ kw just fine. So, you could really make your mountain bike a lot more than 8kw and your dirt bike even more.
Yeah I peaked Qs 138 70h 3kw motor at 30kw and it was hand warm and that hub motor with ferrofluid can push 20kw to 30kw continuous and over 60kw of peak power. These motors aren't actually rated by their power but how much phase current they can handle without overheating.
I am so excited about this build. I have wanted to make an off road capable electric mobility chair trike for years (picture an old school big wheel like from when you were a kid but with independent suspension and a 24" wide recliner stuffed between the back wheels) and I hope this video series will help guide my project.
Simplifying project are not bad at all times, however it makes less content. But in my opinion, a simple build, on a common platform (KAWASAKI FRAME) will inspire and courage people to make the same, if they see your aproach using the stock frame
I'm so glad you are starting to get into electric vehicles, it really shows to people that its not that complicated and that it is great fun (still a bit expensive...), this 12kw motor will be a beast, trust me. I really need to finish my electric buggy so i can show it to you, it might give you inspiration, you are the kind of guy that have new project ideas all the time. I love the content and i'm so impatient, for the rest of the build (especially because it is a full aluminium frame this time). Take care.
Electric bikes are probably more useful but dirt bikes are more cool! You're going to have a lot of mass bouncing around on the end of that swing arm. That'll be interesting... I think I'd consider relocating the hub motor to the frame and driving a normal rear wheel with a chain.
I myself don't care for electric stuff unless it's a power tool but I love watching you machine things and building stuff from scratch I wish I could do it you do awesome work keep it up God bless
Don’t feel like you had to compromise with the 8kw hub motor, that is PLENTY power for a mountain bike. 12kw would be perfect if you wanna paint the seat brown. On a dirt bike however it’ll be more than enough to send some serious hill climbs. And to your point about electric being the future; who knows! All I know is here in the present they’re real expensive, buttttt also really freakin fun (and sneaky 🤫)
@@Todd_G_FPV doesn't matter, it's still 16hp. Sure you gonna get a slightly better punch off the line but that's it. Very underpowered for a full size dirt bike.
@@fullmetaljacket7 as others have said, that's not the peak power rating, but the continuous. Peak is more than double at 25kw or 33.5 hp, which IS enough for a fun dirt bike. Kicker will be if the battery can handle it 🤷🏻♂️
Love this!!! Make its dual motor dirt bike, 1 hub motor in the back and 1 hub motor in the front!!! 2wd lol go crazy with it and get a button that can change it from 1 motor to 2 motor power like these new Escooters
Qsmotors kits are really good quality, a neighbor has converted his Ninja 250 to electric with a 72v 8000w motor from this company 4 years ago and now he had made over 50.000Km without any problems on the drivetrain, and the power output is really good, it outperforms in acceleration a 400cc race bike, but the top speed is really low, with the 8000w motor the bike only do 125Kph while the 400cc bikes reach around 180kph.
It depends on the way the motor is winded. The more turns It has on the coils the more torque and less peak speed. Less turns means less torque and more speed. You can also achive more speed by aplying more voltage but it's a little risky if you don't know what you are doing.
It’s awesome that you want to build your own frame. That shows how much ambition you have 👍🏻 it’s good to see that you’re not taking the easy way. Awesome Chris !
You can have 2 batteries with the same dimensions have different capacities. It comes down to the cells used in the battery. If it is made up from for instance 18650 cells you have those in 2000mah / cell but also 3000mah/cell. The physical size will remain the same but the capacity would be 50% larger.
Just put the 12kw and battery into the existing frame. Quick build. Major problem with these hub motors is pinch flats and bent rims because the wheel is so heavy. Only good for smooth surfaces
I did comment in your last electric video, i'd put you in touch with someone at QS Motor, they'd give you all the advice you need. Yes that motor is 12kw, but peaks of ~30kw is totally reasonable. Normally for electric bicycles you'd use a 3kw, like like the QS 205. I use an MXUS 3k on mine. I currently push 140A battery, 300A phase at 100V. So 14kw from the battery.
Chris you do you bud, no matter what is you build turns out awesome! I’m not here to watch you create anything specific, I enjoy watching your creativity and how you figure things out. Your becoming better fabricator every project and with every project you raise the bar. You rock ma dude!!,
looking foward to this build, will look awesome, i would just modefied the frame, however you did take this to another level. And i loved the design to make the angles right.Very intelligent.
I have a Magicycle 52V Electric Cruiser with a 750W rear hub motor 13.5 amp hour battery and its amazingly so much fun to ride, more fun than my minibike. Cant wait to see you build this bad boy.
👏🤙🤙I am in awe of your talents. From design to cutting to machining to welding and all the way to finishing and operating, you do it all. Total thumbs dude.👏👏👏
Dont do Rear Hub for a mountain bike. Look into Mid drive motors instead. Which actualy would also be a better choice for the dirt bike too. Less rotational mass and better weight distribution.
It's going to be a sick build and the electric mountain bike as well! But yes the battery can be the same size as the other one they just are using higher amp hour cells to make it with.
For your ebike, go mid drive, the dynamics of the bicycle will be 100 times better, and you need pedal assist, not throttle only for the e mtb stuff, also don’t go nuts on the battery, a mtb needs to be light, or as light as possible. Can’t wait to see what you come up with. For the electric motocross, looks like a project, I don’t understand why you are re doing the entire frame, but we will see I guess…. Excellent content hope we will get to see it all get together.
I watch all your videos cool build! Hub motors introduce unsprung weight to the scene and when offroading unsprung weight is not the best. If you get in touch with QS motors you will learn much much more. Also, like the other comments please be sure the battery you have on order can discharge the number of amps your controller can pull.
The geometry is already perfect on the dirt bike frame u should do 2 separate builds make the dirt bike electric with hub motor and when u do the mountain bike build alot of it from scratch that dirtbike suspension I would think is over kill and to heavy for mountain bike deal but either way I'm here to watch ur awesome vids keep up the great work!
i am so glad i found your channel. here is what i have plans for. i just got a new honda trail 125 and was thinking of putting a hub motor on the front just incase i have trouble in the woods with power or i try to run 145 miles on a tank of gas and i could use it to get me to a gas station or out of the sand or mud. i was looking for 8000 watt but then you showed me they make a 12000 watt all i need to know now is if i can get it in 17 inch wheel
like the editing style this week. the battery can have more amp hours, but be the same size, based on the quality of the cells and their individual amp hours.
hey bro heads up, make sure your swing arm is plenty thick for that axle on the hub motor since the hub motor axle can bend it if not strong enough to hold the power from it since the axle spins.
I have a lot of experience in building custom electric skateboards and battery packs, you are right basically the capacity or how big your battery is measured in Amp hours, amps will basically equate to torque if you want more torque then turn up the amps on the controller but you are limited to the amount of amps your battery is rated to output, Also the voltage of the battery pack multiplied by the motor KV will give you the maximum motor rpm.
Also hub motors altho they are much simpler Imo come with a lot of negative drawbacks biggest one being you will not be able to change the gear ratio on the bike. if you have a mid drive you can change gear ratio to be better for low end torque or more for hi speed ect. Either way going to be a badass build keep it up
I am always amazed at how ambitious your projects are and you always pull them off, even if you make mistakes or something doesn't work the way you wanted. That frame head is a work of art! Just make sure there is enough relief in the bearing race stop or even cut a notch in it so you can get a punch on the race if you ever need to service the bearings in the future.
You are spot on with your pedal idea, I would love to have one where you can remove the pedals and put motorcycle foot pegs and go back and forth easily. That way you kinda can get best of both worlds in one bike. Awesome work, keep up the great vids 👍
Thank you for this! I'm trying to do the same with a $100 KX 125. I went with a mid-frame motor. Hoping that wasn't a mistake! Pedals still have me baffled. Looking forward to seeing more!
Smart thinking on waiting for the battery to show up before building the frame. Considering the fact that a majority of your mass is going to be from that battery pack.
I have a stealth bomber style, 5000w version. It is a lot faster than I thought it would be. Zero to 40mph better be hanging on tight or it will take off without you. First time you fire it up, make SURE the rear wheel is off the gound!
A battery pack is made out of cells in parallel and series. There are different cells, some a high discharge and other high capacity. The cells in parallel help each other in current and capacity. Series is what gets you the voltage. So yeah same size can have a total different rating.
i think that this will turn out to be an awesome build! I also think that, like many others, electric is not the future. It is "A" future, another option for vehicles. 2 stroke, 4 stroke, electric and onwards. Best of luck on this build, I hope one day I am able to have an electric dirt bike of my own!
I don't care if it's gas, diesel, electric, water powered....whatever. I know that if its on your channel it's gonna be an awesome machine.
Next up, steam-powered quad?
Yeah it's amazing the quality of the builds that are coming out of that shed.. it's almost like you bought it at the store.. keep up the good work
W-water?
Get your tongue out of his arse my son
Dual hub motors, front and back, would be cool
Scary cool
Beast 2X2 rock bouncer.
Beast 2X2 rock bouncer.
Cool but a lot of unsprung weight.
Than the bike only want 's to go straight!!
That lathe and all that material being donated by your dad's friend, who is also a fan of your channel (if I recall that correctly), has been a game changer for you and your channel. And your self confidence in your machining and what you are willing to tackle has improved exponentially since I first began watching your content. Keep up the great work Chris!!!
Yes do both projects! Suggestion though, look into making your own battery packs you can build your own shape/size and specs that you want.
Very cool watching a chunk of aluminum turn into a usable part.
Great Work. Can't wait for the next video.
Good balance of shop sounds and music also.
Im glad you are building both versions.
From my understanding, whatever the motor is rated at is a continuous rating. If you can get a battery pack/controller combo that can burst a lot of current, you can make more than what the motor is rated for until our friend heat slows things down. To make 12kW at 72V, you need 167 amps continuous. Can't wait to follow this build. Love your content!
correct! although some manufacturers give you the peak performance (QS is one of those if I recall correctly). Peak performance is, like you said, a burst of energy that's going to heat up the controller/battery/motor in mere seconds, that's why you can't run an electric motor constantly on peak performance, that's what rated performance is for. On the rated performance, your motor will run constantly without overheating and any collateral damage. There are a few techniques to "upgrade" your motor, eg using ferrofluids and/or heat sinks on your motor (even on hubs, look it up). It'll heat a lot slower. There are a few videos about changing the phase wires and giving more current to the engine, but you need the extra cooling for it to not to cook it.
In my experience, usually the battery max current is the limiting factor, you need a whole lot of cells in parallel and series to get the adequate currant and voltage. But hopefully in a few years there will be "better" and cheaper battery cells to propel these machines
I hope I could add to your comment!
12Kw = 16hp. I get that out of my 140cc 4 stroke
I've got that same motor, its "rated" at 8kw cont, but it'll do 12kw cont and peaks of 25kw without saturating; just keep an eye on temps.
@@856Dropout Maybe you do get 16hp but that's peak hp. Electric motors typically output a certain HP over a large RPM range.
LOL... I was about to write the same comment. 167 x 72V = 12,000 (ish). You can use ohms law ible check the resistance of the motor and calculate the max possible wattage. I don't know a lot about these motors, but I would think that if you want to run 167 amps for more than a few seconds, you're going to need cooling ... and I don't see any cooling other than the case of the motor.
Depending on the quality of the cells that you have on your battery, the capacity can be higher with the same size, some cells have higher energy density. But most of the time manufacturers are lying a bit about the capacity, adding a few Ah on the listing so you'll buy theirs. A 8kW mountain bike (even if it is 8kW peak power and not nominal power) will be absolutely crazy, a friend of mine built a 5kw peak (3kW nominal) mountain bike with a 27.5 inch wheel and it goes 50 mph easily. The real downside of those hub motor is gearing, the only way to change it is buy changing the size of the wheel. If you have any question on power consumption, estimating range, regenerative braking... i will be happy to help you.
You can also use higher controller voltage to power lower voltage motors for more power. Ie a 48v controller on 36v motors.
@@theupscriber65 also many controllers support field weakening that gives extra speed if battery can push current
These motors are seriously underrated in terms of power for their application. Many people will run 8kw motors at 20+ kw just fine. So, you could really make your mountain bike a lot more than 8kw and your dirt bike even more.
Yeah I peaked Qs 138 70h 3kw motor at 30kw and it was hand warm and that hub motor with ferrofluid can push 20kw to 30kw continuous and over 60kw of peak power. These motors aren't actually rated by their power but how much phase current they can handle without overheating.
I am so excited about this build. I have wanted to make an off road capable electric mobility chair trike for years (picture an old school big wheel like from when you were a kid but with independent suspension and a 24" wide recliner stuffed between the back wheels) and I hope this video series will help guide my project.
I think you deserve a million hits for your project.
Simplifying project are not bad at all times, however it makes less content. But in my opinion, a simple build, on a common platform (KAWASAKI FRAME) will inspire and courage people to make the same, if they see your aproach using the stock frame
I think there are already a lot of gas to electric conversion videos available. his way is more custom and more fun to build
Your build is so clean. It's satisfying.
I'm so glad you are starting to get into electric vehicles, it really shows to people that its not that complicated and that it is great fun (still a bit expensive...), this 12kw motor will be a beast, trust me. I really need to finish my electric buggy so i can show it to you, it might give you inspiration, you are the kind of guy that have new project ideas all the time. I love the content and i'm so impatient, for the rest of the build (especially because it is a full aluminium frame this time). Take care.
Im interested in that buggy
Electric bikes are probably more useful but dirt bikes are more cool! You're going to have a lot of mass bouncing around on the end of that swing arm. That'll be interesting... I think I'd consider relocating the hub motor to the frame and driving a normal rear wheel with a chain.
It's nice when you work smart
Making that jig setup for the frame was so cool to see. Simple but genius idea.
ITS EPIC, LOVE THE CONTENT
I myself don't care for electric stuff unless it's a power tool but I love watching you machine things and building stuff from scratch I wish I could do it you do awesome work keep it up God bless
Electric vehicles are the way of the future. Good luck I'm looking forward to the 2 builds.
Don’t feel like you had to compromise with the 8kw hub motor, that is PLENTY power for a mountain bike. 12kw would be perfect if you wanna paint the seat brown. On a dirt bike however it’ll be more than enough to send some serious hill climbs. And to your point about electric being the future; who knows! All I know is here in the present they’re real expensive, buttttt also really freakin fun (and sneaky 🤫)
It's 16 horsepower.
@@theupscriber65 but the torque is where it's at!
@@Todd_G_FPV doesn't matter, it's still 16hp. Sure you gonna get a slightly better punch off the line but that's it. Very underpowered for a full size dirt bike.
@@fullmetaljacket7 I know it doesn't sound like much but it should move along nicely
@@fullmetaljacket7 as others have said, that's not the peak power rating, but the continuous. Peak is more than double at 25kw or 33.5 hp, which IS enough for a fun dirt bike. Kicker will be if the battery can handle it 🤷🏻♂️
Love this!!! Make its dual motor dirt bike, 1 hub motor in the back and 1 hub motor in the front!!! 2wd lol go crazy with it and get a button that can change it from 1 motor to 2 motor power like these new Escooters
hub wheel has great torque and no chain which is nice, but your wheel gets very heavy which isn't great for bumps in the road
I love seeing the electrics! Full build is awesome!
Interesting project we are heading that way so keen on the builds
Qsmotors kits are really good quality, a neighbor has converted his Ninja 250 to electric with a 72v 8000w motor from this company 4 years ago and now he had made over 50.000Km without any problems on the drivetrain, and the power output is really good, it outperforms in acceleration a 400cc race bike, but the top speed is really low, with the 8000w motor the bike only do 125Kph while the 400cc bikes reach around 180kph.
It depends on the way the motor is winded. The more turns It has on the coils the more torque and less peak speed. Less turns means less torque and more speed. You can also achive more speed by aplying more voltage but it's a little risky if you don't know what you are doing.
Hey Chris, anything you throw your hand at is cool.
Love watching you get in there and spicing things up a bit.
BIG handwave from across the Pond.
It’s awesome that you want to build your own frame. That shows how much ambition you have 👍🏻 it’s good to see that you’re not taking the easy way. Awesome Chris !
Everything the man could do is excellence
Oh😳😃that's so cool allsome work from cruzermans inventions 😁🎉👌💕
Paint suggestion, paint this one orange & white or Gold, white and blk.✌️
You can have 2 batteries with the same dimensions have different capacities. It comes down to the cells used in the battery. If it is made up from for instance 18650 cells you have those in 2000mah / cell but also 3000mah/cell. The physical size will remain the same but the capacity would be 50% larger.
Thank you this saved me from having to type out the same comment. I figured someone would get there first.
Gonna be a great build!
Awesome build! I can’t wait to see it finished‼️
Just put the 12kw and battery into the existing frame. Quick build. Major problem with these hub motors is pinch flats and bent rims because the wheel is so heavy. Only good for smooth surfaces
Excellent new build!! That purple powder coated frame is sick!
I just built a 72v Razor MX650, I say go for it! Electric is a blast!
I did comment in your last electric video, i'd put you in touch with someone at QS Motor, they'd give you all the advice you need. Yes that motor is 12kw, but peaks of ~30kw is totally reasonable. Normally for electric bicycles you'd use a 3kw, like like the QS 205. I use an MXUS 3k on mine. I currently push 140A battery, 300A phase at 100V. So 14kw from the battery.
Yeah! Looking forward to seeing both!!!!
Sweet, can't wait for this one!
Chris you do you bud, no matter what is you build turns out awesome! I’m not here to watch you create anything specific, I enjoy watching your creativity and how you figure things out. Your becoming better fabricator every project and with every project you raise the bar. You rock ma dude!!,
Glad to see you doing electric again!!! 👍👍👍
This is my first time on the channel and looks great
Nice start of a new build! quick suggestion, If you build the frame upside down, it would be easy to add the rear suspension mount to the jig
I will watch whatever you build 👍
This build just gave me goose bumps, I hope you keep the color scheme
looking foward to this build, will look awesome, i would just modefied the frame, however you did take this to another level.
And i loved the design to make the angles right.Very intelligent.
Cool ideas, love the custom framing jig!
This is going to be an interesting build to follow.
Loveing the electric builds
I need this in my life, awesome build idea
Building a frame from a jig is pretty neat! Can't wait for the next episode.
Nice machining. No loose fits. Well Done!
12kW!!!! You are building all kinds of neat things, electric is just another way to power a vehicle. Looking forward to how this turns out.
I bet both projects will be awesome
Love the concept. Can’t wait to see your creation
Personally i love electric projects, i for one say go ahead with them!
I have a Magicycle 52V Electric Cruiser with a 750W rear hub motor 13.5 amp hour battery and its amazingly so much fun to ride, more fun than my minibike. Cant wait to see you build this bad boy.
Chris just go for it! Your builds are interesting.
👏🤙🤙I am in awe of your talents. From design to cutting to machining to welding and all the way to finishing and operating, you do it all. Total thumbs dude.👏👏👏
Dont do Rear Hub for a mountain bike. Look into Mid drive motors instead. Which actualy would also be a better choice for the dirt bike too. Less rotational mass and better weight distribution.
cant wait to see the finished bike
Very excited for this project ! Can't wait
A great project, cannot wait to see the next part of it!
sick builds bro can't wait to see that 12000w rip
looking forward to both projects
It's going to be a sick build and the electric mountain bike as well! But yes the battery can be the same size as the other one they just are using higher amp hour cells to make it with.
Nice start
For your ebike, go mid drive, the dynamics of the bicycle will be 100 times better, and you need pedal assist, not throttle only for the e mtb stuff, also don’t go nuts on the battery, a mtb needs to be light, or as light as possible. Can’t wait to see what you come up with. For the electric motocross, looks like a project, I don’t understand why you are re doing the entire frame, but we will see I guess…. Excellent content hope we will get to see it all get together.
Awesome project
I watch all your videos cool build! Hub motors introduce unsprung weight to the scene and when offroading unsprung weight is not the best. If you get in touch with QS motors you will learn much much more.
Also, like the other comments please be sure the battery you have on order can discharge the number of amps your controller can pull.
The geometry is already perfect on the dirt bike frame u should do 2 separate builds make the dirt bike electric with hub motor and when u do the mountain bike build alot of it from scratch that dirtbike suspension I would think is over kill and to heavy for mountain bike deal but either way I'm here to watch ur awesome vids keep up the great work!
Awesome, can't wait to see what she can do.
I was worried until you started building a jig off the old frame! Nice one, excited for this
i am so glad i found your channel. here is what i have plans for. i just got a new honda trail 125 and was thinking of putting a hub motor on the front just incase i have trouble in the woods with power or i try to run 145 miles on a tank of gas and i could use it to get me to a gas station or out of the sand or mud. i was looking for 8000 watt but then you showed me they make a 12000 watt all i need to know now is if i can get it in 17 inch wheel
Dude, I would watch you do anything and it still would be interesting, I just love your style of editing, fabricating and being human :)
Keep it up!!
Awesome build cant wait so see both project 👌
like the editing style this week. the battery can have more amp hours, but be the same size, based on the quality of the cells and their individual amp hours.
hey bro heads up, make sure your swing arm is plenty thick for that axle on the hub motor since the hub motor axle can bend it if not strong enough to hold the power from it since the axle spins.
Especially since it won't be heat treated after welding like a factory swing arm.
Love his builds he goes all out cnt wait to see what this becomes!!👐🏾💯
Good plan so far
I have a lot of experience in building custom electric skateboards and battery packs, you are right basically the capacity or how big your battery is measured in Amp hours, amps will basically equate to torque if you want more torque then turn up the amps on the controller but you are limited to the amount of amps your battery is rated to output, Also the voltage of the battery pack multiplied by the motor KV will give you the maximum motor rpm.
Also hub motors altho they are much simpler Imo come with a lot of negative drawbacks biggest one being you will not be able to change the gear ratio on the bike. if you have a mid drive you can change gear ratio to be better for low end torque or more for hi speed ect. Either way going to be a badass build keep it up
This project is going to be sweet! Can’t wait to watch it!
that bike is way way way way way to good to be screwing that up and changeing it i would rebuild it and get it to its glory the colour is sick!!!!
I am always amazed at how ambitious your projects are and you always pull them off, even if you make mistakes or something doesn't work the way you wanted. That frame head is a work of art! Just make sure there is enough relief in the bearing race stop or even cut a notch in it so you can get a punch on the race if you ever need to service the bearings in the future.
looks fire i would love to own one
The "That'll do slap" at 15:07❤
Great vid, smart to wait for the battery!
You are spot on with your pedal idea, I would love to have one where you can remove the pedals and put motorcycle foot pegs and go back and forth easily. That way you kinda can get best of both worlds in one bike. Awesome work, keep up the great vids 👍
Thank you for this! I'm trying to do the same with a $100 KX 125. I went with a mid-frame motor. Hoping that wasn't a mistake! Pedals still have me baffled. Looking forward to seeing more!
Really cool project.
Smart thinking on waiting for the battery to show up before building the frame. Considering the fact that a majority of your mass is going to be from that battery pack.
I have a stealth bomber style, 5000w version. It is a lot faster than I thought it would be. Zero to 40mph better be hanging on tight or it will take off without you. First time you fire it up, make SURE the rear wheel is off the gound!
Yeah #1 talented Man ☝️🤟👽🎬
Excited about the e bike!!
Love it ....Its a nice change
A battery pack is made out of cells in parallel and series. There are different cells, some a high discharge and other high capacity. The cells in parallel help each other in current and capacity. Series is what gets you the voltage. So yeah same size can have a total different rating.
i think that this will turn out to be an awesome build! I also think that, like many others, electric is not the future. It is "A" future, another option for vehicles. 2 stroke, 4 stroke, electric and onwards. Best of luck on this build, I hope one day I am able to have an electric dirt bike of my own!
Cool idea can’t wait to see it Finished I joy your builds 😎
Nice to see you continuing to do electric builds It would be awesome to see CBR 1000 with electric Motors type of build one day