First Test Ride on the - Home Made 6 Speed Electric Dirt Bike - Part 6
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 เม.ย. 2024
- In this video we are building another electric dirt bike, this time we are modifying the dirt bike engine and installing the electric motor into the engine so therefore we can still have the 6 speed transmission and clutch.
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Looks way better with the shrouds on
form before function, they were designed to catch air for rad, now no rad they're just a heap of extra drag. to me would be and look wrong, like having a big hood scoop on a Tesla
Yeah, it looks quite bare. Do you think some shrouds on the battery box would help? I'm not sure how functional that would actually be....I wonder if heat even builds up on the battery box?
I respectfully disagree. it looks way cleaner with out the air scoops.
Would look awesome with them. That pink and purple decals look wicked on the yellow.
@@reubroper1427 wind drag doest even really come into effect until about 70km/h which what this thing does flat chat so it's not really relevant
when this guy gets sponsors its game over
He is very talented and dedicated.
cant forget his insane amount of patience
I don't think he wants them.
My guess is he has had offers but wants control of his content.
Sponsors shmonshers live life. It's short kids. Don't sell yourself or your creativity for a worthless dollar of the federal reserve. Or Ahriman. Fulfill your creative desires like rather-b but don't fall into material/capitalism
The shrouds made the bike look complete
Check your throttle voltages. Make sure when you are at full throttle it is outputting the proper high voltage that the controller expects. Also, is your battery pack capable of outputting the proper amperage that your motor wants?
Good point
i was thinnking the same
This, both points. yeah 0-100% on the throttle might only be doing 0-60% or something on the controller.
Correct, and with how much voltage sag.
the bms may have a max current limit much lower than the rated amperage of the combined cells.
I reckon you would still want air flow across the controller in the air box.
Yes I would put air ducts inside the shouds that direct air into the battery box to cool everything and then vent the exhaust back into the airbox via a pipe out the back of the battery box
Even a 12v cooler fan
This would likely be enough, good idea. @phrodendekia
Or put a sealed heatsink to the outside of this airbox? But yeah those controllers get warm cause of of all the MOSFETs
Ya he should bolt a heat sink to the exterior , but NOT have plastic BETWEEN
Hello Chris, big fan of your work. Something is definitely not right on your settings. I built an electric yamaha blaster with the same motor and it can pop wheelies and do 60mph with only 1 gear ratio. I think you should reach 100 with the correct settings and that gearbox. I can share my controller settings if you'd like, so feel free to contact me.
The gearbox is adding drag/losses, so direct drive geared for top speed is probably faster than the gearbox all things considered.
@@bradley3549not that much is lost when using a manual gearbox.
Which motor and controller is that
@@DohcJames In ideal conditions, it's still more than you'd think, >10%. In a case that has been cut to bits and welded back together, the chances that everything is aligned in the ideal least drag configuration would lead me to believe this assembly is probably even less efficient than that.
@DohcJames qs138 90h with the fardriver nd72680. I have a 100ah 72v battery with 340a continuous 850a peak bms on it. His settings can't be correct. He should have run the controller's autotune feature. His controller probably still thinks it's connected to a hub motor from his other project. I offered to share my controller settings with him but I didn't hear from him.
looks better with shrouds on with out them to me it’s like a electric bicycle trying to be a dirt bike
this guy was my child hood inspiration, now im 18 pursuing a heavy diesel technology career
Definitely add the fairings back on imho
Shrouds and your the 100th comment to say that bot.
@@mr.channel6467 whatever you say Karen
Looks better with the radiator shrouds
Greetings from Ukraine. This electric motor can do more. He can do wheelies and go 100 km/h without any problems. You need to look for the reason in the controller settings.
Greetings from your moms house it needs better gesring
@@josephscarborough23gesring????
Mabey there’s an oil problem.. not sure feel like the whole top end part is running dry. Cause usually the crankshaft has got 2stroke mix on it.
@@mr.channel6467 bro its electric
@@mr.channel6467 wtf? Not sure if serious...
Like this comment for Shrouds On
Looks way better with air scoops shrouds on
You still have things getting hot, that are centrally located. The shrouds can only help. Love this build. Keep it up!
I love the music you consistently use in every video. it creates a nice familiar vibe that makes for a more professional feel and something to look forward to in each edit. well done, keep it up!
It hardly qualifies as music. Endlessly repeating, akin to torture, absolute garbage and lazy as fk . There's a billion minutes of totally free, uncopyrighted music available but lazy arse plays the same shit over and over.
Looks way better with the shrouds on💯💯💯
Sick transition for the screen mount!!!!
Yeah I liked that edit.
You have a GIANT BATTERY you want to keep cool, where the radiator used to be.
Fardriver, set rated rpm to motor spec then set max rpm to like 10000, on ratios, turn it all up to 100% and limit rpm at same 10k. Also you other controller prolly got a bad Bluetooth dongle. Same thing happened to me but i luckily had another dongle and that one works for both. So just try a different dongle if you have one
Make sure you put a low profile switch for reverse...would hate for the switch to accidentally get bumped and whammo..."over the bars"
dub the, the "e-shrike" or "the screaming mimi"
so cool that it's moving on it's own power! So Awesome!
Keep em coming!!!!
OH, that would be the suck....
Just use the clutch. It is a normal 125cc gearbox. Slip the clutch a bit when in a standstill
No.
It still will slam the couplers that poke into the windows on the sides of the gears do to clutch drag and still make that horrible sound
@@mondude9754 using the clutch would make it operate exactly as it would with the original engine thus solving the problem. Pull the clutch in give it some throttle and let the clutch out as you would normally
@@keithhasafastcar no it’s not the same bc the original engine stayed idling the whole time and even with the clutch depressed it’s gonna have a little tiny bit of friction which is enough to hold the gear couplers pushed in the direction that the engine pushes when you let go of the clutch. With this electric motor when he lets off the throttle it completely stops the motor and the momentum begins pushing the electric motor which is gonna set the couplers to have slop when he hits the throttle
Clutch left the group 😂
Add the side covers. The battery can't deliver the Amps at that power level.
I don’t think I will ever like an electric dirtbike or motorcycle but I will say that having reverse at the flip of a switch would be really handy in certain circumstances 👍
I think the drain hole in the battery box should be fitted with a hose to prevent water from getting in said drain😊, love ❤️ your work,glasses good idea 😅☮️
On my hybrid build I had to solve the same idle up issue you faced.
You can add a switch and a resistor between 5v throttle wire and throttle signal wire to have your idle up on a switch.
Can use a potentiometer first to find the correct resistance you want.
Unrelated but wanted to correct an error. If you tune your throttle rate you may infact lose power as you mentioned. If you change the P gain on the speed PID loop you can soften the abrupt start but not the rest of the rpm range. You would have to reduce the I gain to lose accel.
That's an elegant solution to the idle issue. Just have it on a switch separate from the controller.
@@kizzmiaz yuhp! Mine was actually idle up on the regen input for the hybrid generator but same thing would totally work.
I actually built a manual emoto too so I think I may try this constant slight forward torque idea too! Great idea @RatherBWelding!
Good; now I don't have to leave the same comment ;)
This is so epic, love all the wild builds in a lil shed.
This is by far my favorite channel to watch on youtube. You are very good at what you do and I know you will get this bike dialed soon! 💯
It looks a million times better with radiator shrouds
Maybe if you do another electric motorcycle conversion you could start with a dual sport model so it would be able to be licensed and insured for street use when completed. Just a thought.
Love the shifting sound
It’s pretty sick
Subscribed
Much respect, sir. Dang, nice build.
Such a beautiful machine! Bravo 👏👏👏
I think it would be alot better with the
Air dam on the front (shoulders) because you're going to want air getting air forced across the battery to keep it cool . Keep up the great work and God Bless you and your family. 😊👍
I think it'll look better with the shrouds on just my opinion
Excellent job. Very entertaining!!
Shrouds on especially for wet days!!
Watch out for the rear suspension pinching the electric wires to the controller
You should charge the battery all the way to 100% especially if it’s been sitting. Cheap battery packs from eBay/Abli/etc tend to have uneven cells quicker than name brand and balancing only occurs at the end of charging cycle. You could have a few cells that are down on power. Also make sure you calibrated your throttle if you haven’t already. Last, see if you can monitor the voltage sag under load. It could be the battery isn’t up to the task and therefore aging much faster. If that’s the case, building a high performance battery from scratch out of premium high-discharge cells might be the way to go.
The battery is rated at 130 amps. Also for some reason both chargers I have are only charging it up to 80% and stopping. I can’t get them to charge any more after that
@@ratherBweldingChris top speed is tied to voltage so that makes sense it’s slower than expected at 80% Silly question but is the charger the correct voltage for the pack? If the charger is good and you leave it on for 24 hrs and it’s still low you have bad cells. Check voltage output of charger and voltage output of battery. Don’t rely on the screen for state of charge when troubleshooting. Do you know the cell configuration of the pack? How many cells in series?
@@ratherBweldingChris
You need battery that is able to do more amps had same problem under load is too much voltage sag
When i build battery that is cpable of 450a peak then i see what that motor is capable
Hello from Croatia ❤️
Man it turned out awesome and can imagine it is a blast.
For a bike like a SurRon that weighs maybe 100 lbs with battery, the 72 volt battery is fine. That suzuki frame, fork, wheels, shocks, tires, etc. are going to weigh significantly more. 96v would be my minimum recommendation if the motor can handle it.
For that battery box, if you have no other cooling plans for the batteries, I would put a small drain at the bottom for any water ingress to escape, then drill out or mill out the front and sides to allow for airflow to the pack while riding.
The shrouds absolutely need to go on as well, they'll help with getting air to that battery, plus it looks like a front-yard hack job bike without them on.
Sounds like a angelgrinder.😂
Those poor angels xD
You should make and sell those dashboards. With light mount.
I hope your day job appreciates you. Your work and creative ideas are impressive.
i would hope he doesn't have/need one.
TH-cam is my day job
Bike needs the shrouds for sure!
That transition was amazing
Was literally just looking for today's video and bam there it is 🤘🏾
that reverse switch might be a bad idea if it gets hit by a limb or something on the trail...
ah...I would bet he's been "over the bars" before...
maybe a cover for the switch? i mean how often are you gonna use it. Also having the switch physically pointing forwards for reverse, and backwards for forwards, so if you ride into a branch it isn't going to push the switch backwards into reverse
Worst case scenario, you at least still have a really epic way to keep the mosquitos smoked out of your shop
Awesome build
I love it! Maybe a little black paint on the diamond plate would make it more incognito.
Exactly what I thinking. I'd be trying to make my mods disappear as much as possible.
Duct Tape! The fabricators cow bell
I hope it's not duct tape. It's weak, and the adhesive on it, turns to dust within a year. Gorilla Tape, now that's completely different.
@@DetroitMicroSound I've wrapped my skateboard battery in Flex Tape. That stuff is like...permanent. It waterproofs nicely. Surprisingly that battery has lasted 2 years with very little degradation.
I love the sound of it!!
My opinion is shrouds will complete the Look.
Why don't you use the clutch to absorb the clunk on take off?
Electric motors revs up from zero RPM. there is no idle RPM that needs a clutch to smooth out the engagement. The cause of clunk that you see is probably a very sensitive accelerator or not optimal tuning.
You could get your 'always slightly on' to work by adding by a resistor to the throttle return line on a switch
I have a Zero FXS. I have the custom mode set to 25%! This gives it a very progressive throttle action. Very soft at low throttle openings but when you crank it on it still gives me all the power the drivetrain is capable of supplying. It will pull your arms out of their sockets! It’s amazing!
I live for the beevus & butthead chuckle after each burnout of a new project 🤣
Instead of setting the motor rotation in the controller, set the controller to normal, and reverse the wires to the motor.
Doesn't work with hall sensors
The hole in tbe air box would have been a perfect place to mount a fan. The cooler the controller is the better. Overheating is an issue with these higher power kits
Looks better with the plastics on
Even when you get the electric motor to full potential you’ll still be limited by the transmission. It just wasn’t designed to spin a ton more than the original ice engine was pushing. You can get around that with gearing but you’ll still be putting more torque through it than it was designed for. I love it though. The future is here and although many things people are so against the electric dirt bikes I think it will become as common if not more than an ice.
Isn't that motor controller going to cook itself in there?
You picked the bike with the ugliest graphics of the whole 90's decade. Lol
Great job! Personally I think radiator shroud’s would look sweet!
"Rather B Welding"
*Provides a beautifully made front assembly for the dash and lights, attached to a frame that holds so many modifications without any issues, for an electric motor that is attached to a motorcycle transmission*
I get it, the channel name may be sarcastic in nature, but I can't overstate what I have been thinking since you started this project; you are AMAZING at what you do.
Please, STOP USING THE SAME TEDIOUS 'MUSIC'
Please stop telling him what music he can use 😂😂.
I like it🤷♂️
I come here for the music
Imagine coming on a platform to complain about someone’s free content with something so petty.
I like the music! It’s the theme of this channel. I would feel completely lost if he changed it. 😜
Great job. I hope you're not too disappointed, I admired your tenacity to get that motor on that gearbox. I think it is an awesome project, you are one skillful engineer, machinist and inventor.
Love this project! I actually had one of those bikes back in the day. Fyi if you hold the Allen key or hex rench and turn the nut on the back side of hub when removing the sprocket it works better. Also I'm sure you know but heat will help if nothing else works. Anyway my man you are my favorite TH-cam channel. Making cool things from other things and no real plans written down is my favorite.
shrouds look good but you are 100% right on making the bike more narrow and having less parts to break.
Looks wicked dude great job
all right, I know you got a lot to do and a lot to read so I’ll keep it as short and simple as I can. First of all, I’ve curiously live my building life through your videos. Thank you for that! Secondly, I know in my RC, hobby of cars, boats and planes as well as drones that all the high-end stuff, I’m talking about the ESE have to be calibrated and I do that mostly with controller software, but you can probably connect it to your computer and iron out all the bugs if you can get the interface that you need
Talented build, So far I like hub motors on street bikes. Don't have the dirt where I live but the everglades.
Voltage drop is your biggest enemy in power!
I did build an electric turbo and I’ve tryed different chemistry of battery! It plays a huge role! If you could mesure your voltage in load and see how much you lose voltage!
If I remember correctly your battery was « good enough » in specs but im pretty sure you need a powerfull battery!
Love your project btw
Way nice bike man lol Love fabbing up bikes.
new subscriber. Love the work dude
You can get some balancing goo to help the tires roll smoother. It seems like you need to throw the other controller on it, this one seems weak AF compared to the shifter kart. The smaller rear sprocket may help, and a larger front sprocket can also help. but if the controller swap does not fix things, then you may need to remake the gears for the motor/transmission adapter to give it more RPM before the transmission. On the verge of perfection! Been loving watching you evolve the electric bikes.
I definitely wouldn't change the gearing until you figure out the controller and power issue. Love the video, psyched to see more.
I agree with many of the comments...definitely looks better with the shrouds on. Cleaner sleeper look, once you get it running better.
Definitely also love and hope more electric bike builds like yours leads to more manufacturers actually putting gear boxes on retail bikes. I know you can control the power curves with different settings or maps, but changing gears just seems natural. Also, prefer they start putting foot mounted rear brakes back on too, instead of them being like mtn bike brakes for more powerful mx style electric bikes.
Thanks for the great content as always!
Use a volt meter and make sure you're getting full voltage at full throttle. Also, if you can set your mapping for "ramp in" voltage, have it ramp from 0 to like 5% power over the first 25 percent of your throttle travel to ease that initial gear whack. Then, have the other 95% power spread over the remaining throttle travel.
Awesome bike 💪👍
I like the radiator shrouds on it
You take it off any sweet jumps!
Yeah he got like 3 feet of air!
W. I am so excited 🎉
I see that reverse feature adding a whole new dimension to freestyle !
awesome work bro.................🙂👌👍🤘
I saw that dash bracket cut in editing. Smooth 😏😏
one button to push while you turn it on that reverts the throttle to 0 volts. Could be called a safety feature if you want!
! Keep it as is!
Tank needs the shrouds, looks great!
I'll bet it would be faster with the front plastics in place 😊🏍️
@RatherBeWeldingChris Regarding Power:
Power in the electrical world is defined by 2 parameters: Power=Voltage * Current
If there is any current limit set in the controller, try allowing more amps there. Maybe in parallel try contacting the seller regarding that, sometimes they have special software to change more advanced parameters.
Now coming to your parameters:
If your battery has a voltage of 72V and the controller is allowed to max out at say 100 amps of current, your bike has 720W of power. Now let's increase one parameter, the battery voltage, to 90V. You unlocked 180W and now have a total of 900W available to spend for wheelies.
But you did allready knew all of that, right?
❤ that !
Nice welds on the head light
Ah the channel of over engineered underwhelming builds 😂❤❤ I'm home
Smooth edit 😊
that color scheme just has a macho man randy savage feel to it
So cool
Good job!
That QS motor is a absolute beast!
You might want to check the ratio in the highest gear. Then you'll know what rpm you had at top speed. (Or read out the rpm if you have the Bluetooth interface)
Nominal rpm is 4000 @72V/ 2850 @51,2V and max rpm (with flux weakening) is around 6500 @72V/ 4620 @51,2V.
I think your motor is going outside the nominal range (4000+)
It loses a lot of power and efficiency above 4000rpm because that's the nominal rpm @72V.
Max power is around 4200rpm
Max torque is around 1400rpm and rapidly descends. It can only deliver half of the torque at 3000rpm and a fraction of that above 5000rpm.
I built a quad with this motor paired with a EM200 controller.
I had limited it at 150A @ 51,2V because I only had a 125A breaker and 16mm² wiring but it still pulled like a beast and top speed was 90km/h. Probably due to torque limitations.
I forgot the ratio but the theoretical top speed was around 130km/h.
Awesome bro
Definitely need to paint diamond plate black
I like u r video keep go on
😂 I love it. Great job man.
you could use the clutch switch or kickstand switch in line with the throttle signal to emulate the throttle in the closed position when the clutch is all the way in, thenuse this to bypass the start safety so you can keep the motor idling. might need to use a double pole relay to switch the throttle over to an alternate signal instead of open.
That transition at 1:14 was amazing