2009 Prius here with 336,874 miles original CV axle. Passenger axle outer boot ripped but still worked perfect and no noise. It was original axle. I just completed this job successfully. I don't have a shop lift like you do. I can't get a long enough pry bar to get the strong enough leverage like you did. 5 LB Slide hammer is required and no extension for slide hammer is required. CV Joint Puller Adapter - Large 63mm wide opening larger than standard is required. Popped right out after a little bit of force than slowly increase force than hit it really hard to pop it out. There is a flexible seal that looks like it can be damaged if you don't hit it straight out. I pushed in the axle by hand straight in kinda hard with no tools by dipping axle tip in transmission fluid bottle opening and using a new snap ring with snap ring opening facing straight down like manual says. I didn't even have to pound it back in it seems but I did pound it a little just to make sure but didn't look like it needed pounding to get it back in. Note I didn't have rust to make it harder on mine. Took 1 hour 15 Minutes.
this manual will push you into a more expensive repair if you do not refill the oil that leaks during disassembly, apart from that the manual is ok, but the suggestion is very important
You've omitted the tie rod removal step or is that only on the passenger side. A better look at that pry bar would help as well because all I see is 1:20
√ Watch the Video
√ Buy The Part at 1A Auto 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ-Parts
√ Do it Yourself
√ Save Money
What was that fluid coming out when removing? where to add after install?
2009 Prius here with 336,874 miles original CV axle. Passenger axle outer boot ripped but still worked perfect and no noise. It was original axle. I just completed this job successfully. I don't have a shop lift like you do. I can't get a long enough pry bar to get the strong enough leverage like you did. 5 LB Slide hammer is required and no extension for slide hammer is required. CV Joint Puller Adapter - Large 63mm wide opening larger than standard is required. Popped right out after a little bit of force than slowly increase force than hit it really hard to pop it out. There is a flexible seal that looks like it can be damaged if you don't hit it straight out. I pushed in the axle by hand straight in kinda hard with no tools by dipping axle tip in transmission fluid bottle opening and using a new snap ring with snap ring opening facing straight down like manual says. I didn't even have to pound it back in it seems but I did pound it a little just to make sure but didn't look like it needed pounding to get it back in. Note I didn't have rust to make it harder on mine. Took 1 hour 15 Minutes.
midway the ball joint/control arm look to be replaced with new ones?
Where do you refill the fluid at?
this manual will push you into a more expensive repair if you do not refill the oil that leaks during disassembly, apart from that the manual is ok, but the suggestion is very important
Do you need an alignment afterward?
You don’t need to replace the fluid that was lost from the transaxle?... lol Obviously you do. Don’t forget to fill your transaxle back up to full.
Boots replacing cost less than full axle of not too late ( gap, noise) oem axles are very strong. Oem boot kit is available at all toyota dealership.
You've omitted the tie rod removal step or is that only on the passenger side. A better look at that pry bar would help as well because all I see is 1:20
+PlayfullySound Thanks for the tip! We'll pass this info along to our production team. 1aau.to/m/Shop-TRQ
Awesome detail