Excellent advice for polypropylene (soft) dirt bike plastics. I've done scraping and sanding all the way to wet sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper and then heat-treating the plastic surface but the real key is the lambswool buffer shown in this video. I got a 7-inch buffing pad and a lambswool buffer at Harbor Freight for my angle grinder just to polish vintage motorcycle plastics. Phenomenal! Finished up with Meguiar's new Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax and my 36-year-old plastics are improved 1000%. Thanks!
This is awesome... I'm restoring the 1980 KD80 I learned to ride on as a kid so I can give it to my daughter ... plastic is white and oxidized. This will work!
Thank you so much for the great info and tutorial! I’m restoring a Honda ATC 350X and will do this procedure for sure! Doing it this way definitely takes time but I’m sure you have way more pride in the finished product.
When new plastic is not available anymore, this is about the only way to do it. 350x is something i am going to look for in the future. be a great restoration project.
Totally agree! I tried hard to get some replacement plastic even close to the same consistency and deep color as the originals to no avail. Have started using this process with several sets of plastics so far and getting ready to try it again... Right now I have a wonderfully intact, non scratched or gouged but horribly sun faded, set of plastics for a 1978 Yamaha YZ80 and I’ll be starting to work in them this weekend. I’ve been watching eBay now for close to ten years looking for a NOS set of plastic for this bike, particularly a rear fender to no avail... Thank you so much for a really exceptional video!
Sanding the plastics is the best way to restore them. I have done a few sets of plastics this way and they always turn out great. This process works great on newer plastics just so you know. Keep up the good work!
did you just straight up sand them or did you start with a razor blade like the guy in this video? wanna do this but I'm a little nervous about the blade but I'm confident I could sand them/heat gun em no problems..
It just depends on how bad they are and how much time you want to spend on it. I have done some where I don’t use a razor blade and some where I do. It just depends on how bad it is.
Nice video! I have a 88 Honda trax300. Replaced the rear fender because it was original and too damaged. But the front was replaced maybe 15 years ago but totally needs this. I'll be working on it! Thanks again for your very informative video!
Thank you, I asked about this process on a couple of moto sites and I got some good advice but not the details you gave. I cannot wait until I give it a try to see what my gas tank will look like on my Honda 87 CR500. Thanks...
Great vid. I have been similarly restoring plastics for a while but never used heat until the end. Also buffing with sheep's wool looks like a good way to bring out the shine. I will add both steps on my next resto. Thanks.
I learned my lesson. I won't waste time removing the paint it isn't necessary. Just sand the paint down smooth the full paint removal is just extra work.
Oh my goodness that was alot of work!!! It certainly may even look better than new, but it seems like the time invested could never return a profit. Rather you are creating museum quality artifacts from scrap plastic parts!!! I commend you sir!!!
Thank you so much for making this I have a RM125 and it was spray painted black by the previous owner and he did a horrible job I want to see that champion yellow again
great technique although recently i have been using 0000 wire wool which gives the same finish as the 2000 grit. buffer clamped Ina vice and fender to buffer . never used a heat gun yet as i can’t afford to burn the thing
Really nice video, thank you! I've seen the heating method used a lot, but some people say that the plastic might become brittle over time. Anything you've noticed with your restorations? I have some large ATV fenders in really bad and scratched condition. I just ordered sand paper ranging from 220 up to 3000 for my orbital sander and I have some rougher paper as well. I was thinking of removing the deep scratches with 120 or 240 and work my way up, maybe ending with some wet sanding around 1200-2000 grit is the finest I have. Heat it up once or twice as well as and use the wool pad. Have you used any protection when done? I have some left over Cerakote Plastic Trim Restorer which I used to restore some faded black plastics on my car. I was thinking I could try that to keep it looking good for longer.
Good information. I hope most of this applies to a 2006 bike. As you said, the plastic formulations are probably different. I don't know how or how different though. My DR650 has some bad scratches in the back fender... I started sanding them out from 150 grit up to 2000 and it's still very faded looking. Apparently I'm missing the heat gun step. I'll have to try that.
Will do a new video when it gets nicer out. I have moved to using a palm sander which speeds the process up. I have tried different compounds ds without heat and I was not happy with results. Heat seems to work well.
The heat brings the natural (well ok synthetic but its already found in the plastic) oil out of the plastic up to the surface. Obviously doing this too many times will make the plastic brittle but it sure is great for restoring!
I liked the idea of using oven cleaner but I wasn't sure if it removed the paint. I want to try the oven cleaner on my headlights because I think there is a protective film which is keeping the lights to be restored properly. What are your thoughts?
pete136913 Ive done it....and you're right. Won't ever happen again. I was holding my eyeball open while I blasted myself with he hose wide open trying to escape the agony.
Tengo un XR 250 BAJA 1999 le acabo de conseguir el guarda fango delantero original ACERBIS, pero está un poco quemado por el sol. Voy a seguir sus consejos para intentar restaurarlo. Es posible que yo también comparta un vídeo del antes y el después. Muchas gracias por compartir su experiencia.
I have a 95 banshee and have tried so many products and buffing pads to try to shine them up and nothing has worked for me but I think it’s bc my plastic aren’t even bad I just want them really shiny since I’m used to the results I get when paint correcting a car
This process was explained and demonstrated better than just about any tutorial on youtube, thank you. However... aren't new plastics only about $50 or so on ebay? That is a lot of time spent man!
After market plastic for this year of bike is not of the same quality. They are great for a static display but will not fit perfect nor last when riding.
Any ideas if I should be afraid of light sanding on a yamaha WR 500 gas tank? They supposedly had a coat of lamination around them to hold the graphics on better.
I’m looking to do something similar, I have an 09 RMZ450 that I want to instal a graphics kit onto but I fear that the current condition of the plastics isn’t smooth enough to let the graphics Kit stick properly....and if I don’t have to fork out more $ just for new plastics that would be great! LOL For my situation it seems like the Fork Guards and side Number Plates are in the worst condition (scratched etc..). I feel like maybe 1k - 2k grit and some heat might do the trick for the majority of the plastics, but with those items listed above I might need to start at the razor and 400 grit 🤔 The plastics don’t need to “look mint”, they just need to have a surface suitable enough for laying graphics properly! Great video!
Yes i would start with 400 if you are trying to remove deep scratches up to 1000. After that its just about getting it shiny so if you are just covering completely with graphics, stop at 1000. probably do not even need to heat or buff. Heating brings the color back and buffing is just to bring the glossy appearance..
TNT MOTO I appreciate the reply sir, thank you! I only thought maybe heat the plastic just to “seal” it, I thought that maybe un-heated plastic after sanding might be too porous for the decals to stick properly.....? I know that 1k grit is super super fine and the porous level is probably damn near microscopic after sanding but I dunno, maybe I’m just overthinking LOL Thank you again though, this has been very helpful, stay safe and cheers from 🇨🇦
Question: will this process work on mid 80's (mine is 86 Suzuki DR200) that the plastic has bad oxidation. Very rough feeling damage to the plastic. It kind of feels like rough fiberglass but if it is, it very flexible fiberglass. Just curious if you have ran into plastic like I am describing and if this will work? I am assuming if I can sand enough of it off, I should be able to get to some better plastic?
You put a lot of time into your work, and the bikes always look amazing at the end of it! I will probably have a crack at restoring the plastic on my XR250R when I get onto fixing that up, but too bad it will still have a couple of chunks missing out of the edges when I'm done, I don't know how to fix that without buying new plastics. Also, where do you buy your OEM graphics from? Especially the number plate backgrounds because I can't find them
Curious why you use the heat gun between grits? I've never done this, but I would think you'd just need the heat gun once, after going through all the grits. Thanks!
Speeds up the process a little. its not necessary on all plastic. i have found some pieces need it to reveal more work being needed where others do not.
I use high but be careful to just create the film. It can melt if you not careful and there is no going back. Buffing wheel was dry. Co compound. You can use a plastic polish if you want.
I find its easier to use WD40 or break cleaning and low abrasive green scott brite pads. you can get into tiny areas and you loose minimal plastic. From there you can polish and thru turn out nicer. Been doing this 30 years.
I'm watching your video in order to restore my plastic kayak. It looks very good. Did you add any polishing compound when you start buffing at the 13:00 minute mark, or is your pad dry? Thanks for you help.
More of a question than a comment. Do you use this method on all the plastics such as front number plate and radiator shrouds the thin ones. How do you keep the thin ones from permanently warping with the heat cycles?
All you are doing with the heat it causing a film to appear on the out side. you do not hold heat to any area for a long period of time or it will warp or worse melt. Yes i use this method on all of the plastic parts.
Do you use the heat gun on each level of sanding or just at the end with 2000? I have a good start on my 86 RM250 but still have a lot of restoration to do. Thanks
@@TNTMOTO nice, that might save you some time in having to resand a few times with 2000 after buffing. I have done a few headlights and mx plastics. I find using a compound gets rid of alot of the 1500 marks the 2000 cant. I know you are a expert at this by now, but have you tried using those inexpensive foam buffing pads? I find them to work a bit better on plastics than the wool. The wool tends to heat the plastic up alot faster. Anyways amazing work.
@@TNTMOTO I know what you mean. I just finished a KDX 200 I resorted. I desided to mirror polish the entire motor after my Zx7R's frame came out so nice. Took me almost a month, sanding almost every evening 3 to 4 hours. Hardest part was to get rid of all the casting marks😅. Turned out not to bad. Not a complete mirror finish everywhere, but most of the casings was. Wont be doing that anytime soon again. Aluminium is just to messy to wetsand. Keep us posted on the compound👍🏻👍🏻
Great video. My technique is very similar, minus the heat gun which I'll start using. One question-after doing the 400 grit sanding and heat gun, do you use the heat gun after every grit until you get to 2000 or do you only use the heat at 400 grit and 2000? Definitely requires a lot of elbow grease and time, but this is the only way you can get the plastics looking good.
@@TNTMOTO So at the end you would go 2000 grit sand, heat, buff and repeat or no heat at the buffing stage? Would heat help after the final buff or not?
kingcrumpet yes i did go 2000 heat then buff. If the appearance was not quite as glossy as i wanted then i would repeat the process. Its a good idea to quick heat causing a very light film after every final sand to just seal those fine 2000 scratches. in the new year i am going to experiment with a compound on the buffing pad rather than dry to see if it offers any advantage.
My quad has white face paint that I don't need to strip should I repaint it you think or should I just use this method??? Because I see a lot of especially younger folk repainting but I think with this method it's not necessary???
Excellent advice for polypropylene (soft) dirt bike plastics. I've done scraping and sanding all the way to wet sanding with 2000 grit sandpaper and then heat-treating the plastic surface but the real key is the lambswool buffer shown in this video. I got a 7-inch buffing pad and a lambswool buffer at Harbor Freight for my angle grinder just to polish vintage motorcycle plastics. Phenomenal! Finished up with Meguiar's new Hybrid Ceramic Liquid Wax and my 36-year-old plastics are improved 1000%. Thanks!
You are correct the lambswool buffing wheel is what makes it shine.
This is awesome... I'm restoring the 1980 KD80 I learned to ride on as a kid so I can give it to my daughter ... plastic is white and oxidized. This will work!
Use bleach or Ajax, it works really well on white plastics.
How did you go? I'm about to pull my own childhood KD80 out of the shed and do the same!
Excellent tutorial on your procedure for plastic resto. It definitely is a labor of love, when it comes to us vintage moto guys👍🏁
Don Sass Thanks. Gives me a good feeling inside when I restore these old machines that made the sport what it is today.
Great info! I usually start on the plastics first before the wife sees the latest POS I just snuck in the side yard!
Thank you so much for the great info and tutorial! I’m restoring a Honda ATC 350X and will do this procedure for sure! Doing it this way definitely takes time but I’m sure you have way more pride in the finished product.
When new plastic is not available anymore, this is about the only way to do it. 350x is something i am going to look for in the future. be a great restoration project.
Cool. I used to do this 30 years ago. It was in magazines back then and i did a lot of bikes . Started to just buy new.
Can't get same quality plastic for the early 80's bikes. Late 80 and on UFO makes the closest
@@TNTMOTO I think Cyrca makes pretty good AM plastics also IMO
@@MotoFamMayhem You cant get good quality and fit plastic for some years anymore
Totally agree! I tried hard to get some replacement plastic even close to the same consistency and deep color as the originals to no avail. Have started using this process with several sets of plastics so far and getting ready to try it again... Right now I have a wonderfully intact, non scratched or gouged but horribly sun faded, set of plastics for a 1978 Yamaha YZ80 and I’ll be starting to work in them this weekend. I’ve been watching eBay now for close to ten years looking for a NOS set of plastic for this bike, particularly a rear fender to no avail... Thank you so much for a really exceptional video!
Sanding the plastics is the best way to restore them. I have done a few sets of plastics this way and they always turn out great. This process works great on newer plastics just so you know. Keep up the good work!
Davin Lyda how should I go about it? Wet sanding with high grit?
Yes high grit. I like to use soap water. As for the grit I start at 400 and work my way up to 1500. And then I polish it with car buffer
did you just straight up sand them or did you start with a razor blade like the guy in this video? wanna do this but I'm a little nervous about the blade but I'm confident I could sand them/heat gun em no problems..
It just depends on how bad they are and how much time you want to spend on it. I have done some where I don’t use a razor blade and some where I do. It just depends on how bad it is.
Davin Lyda do you see a bunch of scuff makes when you sand it ?
People don’t realize how much time this takes. Great job and good video
If you cant buy new plastic, it is the only option.
Nice video! I have a 88 Honda trax300. Replaced the rear fender because it was original and too damaged. But the front was replaced maybe 15 years ago but totally needs this. I'll be working on it! Thanks again for your very informative video!
Thank you, I asked about this process on a couple of moto sites and I got some good advice but not the details you gave. I cannot wait until I give it a try to see what my gas tank will look like on my Honda 87 CR500. Thanks...
Great vid. I have been similarly restoring plastics for a while but never used heat until the end. Also buffing with sheep's wool looks like a good way to bring out the shine. I will add both steps on my next resto. Thanks.
Let me know how the process works out for you. Always interested to hear what it has done for other's plastic.
Great informative video. I have an '87 CR500 that's gonna need a lot of this. Definitely time intensive. But we gotta do what we gotta do.
Thx
CR500 NICE
Great how-to video. I'm restoring an 84 CR80R partly because of your videos.
Thanks, thats great to hear. CR80 is a great little bike. They rip.
Brilliant, I'm impressed 😃 I'll be having a go myself now! Thank's for the insight. Best regards Chris
I don’t often comment on videos but I must say this was so helpful I’m going to use it
Great to hear.
Thank you for showing us how to repair soft plastic. Hard plastic buffs up easily but not the soft stuff. Regards🇦🇺
Thanks man. I’m gonna try this with my black plastics that have turned almost grey from the sun.
Interested to here how it works out for you. I have not tried black yet but should work the same
The quality of your vids have gone up since you started. Keep it up
Especially considering that you live at the end of a runway ...😆
Wow man I’ve been humbled ! Fantastic work bro ! Respect!
That final result is just incredible. Great job!
I learned my lesson. I won't waste time removing the paint it isn't necessary. Just sand the paint down smooth the full paint removal is just extra work.
Luv the heat gun trick. Great job, thank you for sharing👍👏👏
That turned out amazing, I’ll definitely use this method. Thanks
Awesome man, great video!
Very detailed and informative.
Great song choice too
Thank you for sharing all of that hard work do. The results were just amazing!
Thank you very much for watching
That fender looks beautiful!
Yes the process works well. The more time you spend on it the better it looks
Oh my goodness that was alot of work!!! It certainly may even look better than new, but it seems like the time invested could never return a profit. Rather you are creating museum quality artifacts from scrap plastic parts!!! I commend you sir!!!
Very time consuming for a $30 fender but I guess it would be a good project for those winter months. Good job on the restore!
You cant buy these fenders anymore. the ones that are reproduced are no where near the same quality, plastic or fitment.
Man u made it brand new!!!! Wicked job bro!! My daughters 1990 rm 80 is in need haha i may try im pretty handy..thanks for vid!
Biggest thing is take your time, dont rush it. you will be happy with the results.
Awesome video you’ve inspired me to start restoring one of my own bikes. Keep up the good work 👍🏼
Thank you. Good to hear.
True artist you are! Thanks for sharing your technique!
Really nice man cool video I’m gonna try it on my banshee I’m gonna start a 2000 grit then buff
if you dont have any deep scratches or oxidisation 2000 and buffing will make it shine.
Thank you so much for making this I have a RM125 and it was spray painted black by the previous owner and he did a horrible job I want to see that champion yellow again
Awesome!.....My 1984 Honda XR 200R is gonna love this......(me too when done).....Thanks.
Best video of plastic fairings restoration! Best outcome too lol
Thank you
@@TNTMOTO you're very welcome sir. Here's to hoping I can recreate it !
great technique although recently i have been using 0000 wire wool which gives the same finish as the 2000 grit. buffer clamped Ina vice and fender to buffer . never used a heat gun yet as i can’t afford to burn the thing
That was a great video, very helpful.
In 23 years when I reach retirement age (if my Fidelity account allows) I will have the extra time in life to sit down and work on Plastics like this.
Pretty awesome. I'll make suggestion try using buffing compound I've used it and it works perfect. With the buffer much faster.
Nice work. Thank you for making that instructional video
This is excellent information, thank you for making this video!
Your welcome. Hope yours turns out great.
i find a block plane or a spokeshave on the most shallow setting works great. liked and subscribed. :)
Thankyou, I will look into that.
I bought an 83 CR 125 which is covered in spray paint. It even had red racing stripes like you did .
Scott Hancock lol. Aircraft paint stripper works great. Only takes minutes
Really nice video, thank you!
I've seen the heating method used a lot, but some people say that the plastic might become brittle over time. Anything you've noticed with your restorations?
I have some large ATV fenders in really bad and scratched condition. I just ordered sand paper ranging from 220 up to 3000 for my orbital sander and I have some rougher paper as well. I was thinking of removing the deep scratches with 120 or 240 and work my way up, maybe ending with some wet sanding around 1200-2000 grit is the finest I have. Heat it up once or twice as well as and use the wool pad.
Have you used any protection when done? I have some left over Cerakote Plastic Trim Restorer which I used to restore some faded black plastics on my car. I was thinking I could try that to keep it looking good for longer.
I have only ever had cracking with tanks that were stored with fuel in them
Good information. I hope most of this applies to a 2006 bike. As you said, the plastic formulations are probably different. I don't know how or how different though. My DR650 has some bad scratches in the back fender... I started sanding them out from 150 grit up to 2000 and it's still very faded looking. Apparently I'm missing the heat gun step. I'll have to try that.
Will do a new video when it gets nicer out. I have moved to using a palm sander which speeds the process up. I have tried different compounds ds without heat and I was not happy with results. Heat seems to work well.
I like how your heat gun electric cord is almost in your Blue bin of water👍
Extension is plugged into a GFI Circuit Breaker like your Bathroom plugs.
Great video, this method works great, thanks!
Wow bro that was impressive.. I have 11 bikes to do ooooofff!!!!
Be careful with the heat. Its not required but helps speed things up
Very informative and beautiful work. Thank you
Not sure if the camera does it justice, but it sure looks great.
The heat brings the natural (well ok synthetic but its already found in the plastic) oil out of the plastic up to the surface. Obviously doing this too many times will make the plastic brittle but it sure is great for restoring!
I only use it to put a film over it. I do not hear it up much. Would be interesting to see if it effects longevity.
Did this around 6 years ago to my garden furniture it brings the oils to the top
Fantastic tutorial! Thanks for making and posting.
BosephusBigelsworth your welcome. Hope yours turns out great. Take your time.
I liked the idea of using oven cleaner but I wasn't sure if it removed the paint. I want to try the oven cleaner on my headlights because I think there is a protective film which is keeping the lights to be restored properly. What are your thoughts?
The oven cleaner does not work for all paint. I do not know about head lights.
Great job man! I cannot wait to try this on my '87 CR500 plastics!
Would definitely recommend using safety glasses when spraying paint stripper off with a hose. One good splash in the eye and you wont do it twice.
pete136913 Ive done it....and you're right. Won't ever happen again. I was holding my eyeball open while I blasted myself with he hose wide open trying to escape the agony.
Tengo un XR 250 BAJA 1999 le acabo de conseguir el guarda fango delantero original ACERBIS, pero está un poco quemado por el sol. Voy a seguir sus consejos para intentar restaurarlo. Es posible que yo también comparta un vídeo del antes y el después. Muchas gracias por compartir su experiencia.
Sounds good, look forward to it.
I have a 95 banshee and have tried so many products and buffing pads to try to shine them up and nothing has worked for me but I think it’s bc my plastic aren’t even bad I just want them really shiny since I’m used to the results I get when paint correcting a car
Wow. That's a lot of work for one piece. I think I'll just buy one....
Some plastic is no longer available so you are left with no choice.
Good job on the CR500 plastic.
Thanks. If you are following my CR500 restoration, i will have the frame back from the powder coater hopefully by next week.
Very informative thx. Tackling my yt 60 plastics this weekend. Did you have to put heat to the underside? Thx
I don't bother trying to get the underside to have that glossy look. It wears to fast with all the dirt,dust and mud.
@@TNTMOTO I will send pics, thx. Happy holidays
I couldn't add my finished pc. Turned out well
Good job! Do you use any polishing compound during the buffing stage?
No i do not, but others do and they have had success with it. I think i may consider it in the future to add a protective layer to the finish.
This process was explained and demonstrated better than just about any tutorial on youtube, thank you. However... aren't new plastics only about $50 or so on ebay? That is a lot of time spent man!
After market plastic for this year of bike is not of the same quality. They are great for a static display but will not fit perfect nor last when riding.
It’s not really about the money. There’s a lot of pleasure seeing the change you made happen.
I followed your process however i cannot get rid from the sand paper stretches from the 400 grit. Didn't go through the polishing process yet.
Any ideas if I should be afraid of light sanding on a yamaha WR 500 gas tank? They supposedly had a coat of lamination around them to hold the graphics on better.
I don't have an answer for you. But that is a rare bike so don't take any chances.
I’m looking to do something similar, I have an 09 RMZ450 that I want to instal a graphics kit onto but I fear that the current condition of the plastics isn’t smooth enough to let the graphics Kit stick properly....and if I don’t have to fork out more $ just for new plastics that would be great! LOL
For my situation it seems like the Fork Guards and side Number Plates are in the worst condition (scratched etc..).
I feel like maybe 1k - 2k grit and some heat might do the trick for the majority of the plastics, but with those items listed above I might need to start at the razor and 400 grit 🤔
The plastics don’t need to “look mint”, they just need to have a surface suitable enough for laying graphics properly!
Great video!
Yes i would start with 400 if you are trying to remove deep scratches up to 1000. After that its just about getting it shiny so if you are just covering completely with graphics, stop at 1000. probably do not even need to heat or buff. Heating brings the color back and buffing is just to bring the glossy appearance..
TNT MOTO
I appreciate the reply sir, thank you!
I only thought maybe heat the plastic just to “seal” it, I thought that maybe un-heated plastic after sanding might be too porous for the decals to stick properly.....?
I know that 1k grit is super super fine and the porous level is probably damn near microscopic after sanding but I dunno, maybe I’m just overthinking LOL
Thank you again though, this has been very helpful, stay safe and cheers from 🇨🇦
Fantastic work. Have you found anything that protects it once you restore it ?
As far a putting a coating of some sort on it i would just buff a good polish on it like Mequiars
Question: will this process work on mid 80's (mine is 86 Suzuki DR200) that the plastic has bad oxidation. Very rough feeling damage to the plastic. It kind of feels like rough fiberglass but if it is, it very flexible fiberglass. Just curious if you have ran into plastic like I am describing and if this will work? I am assuming if I can sand enough of it off, I should be able to get to some better plastic?
Yes it will work
@@TNTMOTO thank you!!!
You put a lot of time into your work, and the bikes always look amazing at the end of it! I will probably have a crack at restoring the plastic on my XR250R when I get onto fixing that up, but too bad it will still have a couple of chunks missing out of the edges when I'm done, I don't know how to fix that without buying new plastics. Also, where do you buy your OEM graphics from? Especially the number plate backgrounds because I can't find them
Thanks for the positive comments. Ebay is where i get my graphics
I'll look a bit harder next time...
if you cant find what you are looking for leave a message on my tnt moto facebook and i will see if i can find some for you
nice tricks and technique, thanks!
Thanks so much for this! Buying a 91 xr250r tonight, can't wait to try this!
Great to hear. 91 X250 is a great bike. Just take your time. Be real careful with the heat gun on White plastics.
Okay will do. You're new camera looks real good too, very nice quality.
Gorpro 5 my family got me for Chistmas
That looks amazing!! I’d say better than factory...👍
Facts 👍
Curious why you use the heat gun between grits? I've never done this, but I would think you'd just need the heat gun once, after going through all the grits. Thanks!
Speeds up the process a little. its not necessary on all plastic. i have found some pieces need it to reveal more work being needed where others do not.
@@TNTMOTO makes sense, thanks!
I wished I could post a pic of my before and after pic of my tank the difference is amazing.
Awesome good to hear.
i sandblasted my plastics with glass beads at low pressure it works well to get all the crap off
Thanks I will attempt this
Is there a difference between Ufo replacement plastics...example the front Cr fender, and the stock one, or are they both the same..
UfO makes good plastic but its not oem
Very good informative video with impressive results ! you could upgrade your mic setup because it sounds very muffled, Thank you for the video
Yes sorry about that. it was on my new gopro 5 and there mic is terrible. I will be making a new video in the future with a better setup.
What was the temp setting on the heat gun? No compound on the buffing wheel? What about polishes? Thanx
I use high but be careful to just create the film. It can melt if you not careful and there is no going back. Buffing wheel was dry. Co compound. You can use a plastic polish if you want.
Thanks, Have many vintage bikes and did not know this.
Hey great tutorial I will use this way on the 1987 xr100 I just got
Thank you. hope it works out well for you
Great video only made me a little nervous with big tube of water and power tools
Lol. All good. Connected to a gfi
I find its easier to use WD40 or break cleaning and low abrasive green scott brite pads. you can get into tiny areas and you loose minimal plastic. From there you can polish and thru turn out nicer. Been doing this 30 years.
I will try that. thanks.
30 years is a long time to spend on a fender....must have been rare?
I'm watching your video in order to restore my plastic kayak. It looks very good. Did you add any polishing compound when you start buffing at the 13:00 minute mark, or is your pad dry? Thanks for you help.
It was a dry pad but since this video i have been using a compound for last few polishings.
lacquer thinner wipes spray paint right off and will not damage the plastic. Way faster and cheaper too.
gene stephens I will try that.
always looking forward to your videos. a fan from singapore.
Thanks. Always appreciate a fan and positive comments. new videos soon.
More of a question than a comment. Do you use this method on all the plastics such as front number plate and radiator shrouds the thin ones. How do you keep the thin ones from permanently warping with the heat cycles?
All you are doing with the heat it causing a film to appear on the out side. you do not hold heat to any area for a long period of time or it will warp or worse melt. Yes i use this method on all of the plastic parts.
Still haven’t done it yet, but I will, bike is up for sale. Do you still have yours? What are you working on now? Thanks for the videos!
1983 yz 490. Still waiting for a couple of engine seal
Do you use the heat gun on each level of sanding or just at the end with 2000? I have a good start on my 86 RM250 but still have a lot of restoration to do.
Thanks
After 1000
I’m going to attempt this on my quad.
Just take your time. Don't rush it
Have you tried using a buffing compound like when a person is restoring plastic headlights?
not yet. i have acquired a product at a bike show that i will be reviewing on a fender i plan to restore
@@TNTMOTO nice, that might save you some time in having to resand a few times with 2000 after buffing. I have done a few headlights and mx plastics. I find using a compound gets rid of alot of the 1500 marks the 2000 cant. I know you are a expert at this by now, but have you tried using those inexpensive foam buffing pads? I find them to work a bit better on plastics than the wool. The wool tends to heat the plastic up alot faster. Anyways amazing work.
@@evoracing5563 I will try anything to reduce the work. Getting older hands cramp up after a few hours. so going to have to find something.
@@TNTMOTO I know what you mean. I just finished a KDX 200 I resorted. I desided to mirror polish the entire motor after my Zx7R's frame came out so nice. Took me almost a month, sanding almost every evening 3 to 4 hours. Hardest part was to get rid of all the casting marks😅. Turned out not to bad. Not a complete mirror finish everywhere, but most of the casings was. Wont be doing that anytime soon again. Aluminium is just to messy to wetsand. Keep us posted on the compound👍🏻👍🏻
Can you use rubbing compound or polish with buffing wheel?
yes but a dry pad does seem to work the best
@@TNTMOTO thanks for the reply back. I shall try one plastic at a time till I get the all plastics.
@@richardnavarro7108 Best to start with a piece of plastic you dont need until you develop the technique
Do you use buffing compound on the lambs wool buff when you buff the plastic?
This was a dry buff but i have used compound and i have not seen a difference in how long the shine lasts after use.
TNT MOTO cheers for the response mate! Guard looks brilliant and I will be using this technique on my early 90’s Kx guards!
Great video. My technique is very similar, minus the heat gun which I'll start using. One question-after doing the 400 grit sanding and heat gun, do you use the heat gun after every grit until you get to 2000 or do you only use the heat at 400 grit and 2000? Definitely requires a lot of elbow grease and time, but this is the only way you can get the plastics looking good.
Matthew Turowski I only use the heat gun after 400 and between every 2000 sand.
@@TNTMOTO So at the end you would go 2000 grit sand, heat, buff and repeat or no heat at the buffing stage? Would heat help after the final buff or not?
kingcrumpet yes i did go 2000 heat then buff. If the appearance was not quite as glossy as i wanted then i would repeat the process. Its a good idea to quick heat causing a very light film after every final sand to just seal those fine 2000 scratches. in the new year i am going to experiment with a compound on the buffing pad rather than dry to see if it offers any advantage.
@@TNTMOTO Ok, thanks a lot. Love your work.
kingcrumpet thanks and hope yours turns out great.
Have you tried the citrus stripper available at hardware stores?
No i have not.
I have. Works well and caused no damage to the plastics I was working on (Honda CRF). I used the spray can type.
Thank you for this video!
I have a spot of that is a heavy scratch on trx plastic that needs to be fixed
Deep scratches really cant be fixed unless you fill it
Would this work with a metallic flake? Have a battery side cover that is scratched bad from the keychain.
Are you talking about a street bike cover that is painted?
Beautiful work. Do you offer this as a service? I'm considering buying an IT 465 that needs restoration and would love to send the plastic to you.
Sorry no
Very good mate I learnt alot cheers
My quad has white face paint that I don't need to strip should I repaint it you think or should I just use this method??? Because I see a lot of especially younger folk repainting but I think with this method it's not necessary???
dont paint plastic. restore it or buy new. The paint will just flake off. or scratch.
@@TNTMOTO ahhhhhh worst news I heard all day ...i know your right but...i dunno I guess better safe than sorry thanks though
What did you used with the lambswool to make it look shiny? Was it dry?
@@danielreynoso8981 dry