Man, I learned SO much from this video stream. Honestly, so many blind spots in my knowledge I didn't even know I had. Something about collective input from so many minds is quite great.
Wow beyond impressive as a electronics hobbyist i could definitely say you the best demonstration of a project from idea to project great video Few suggestions Nrf24 can only transmitt or receive 32 bytes of data in a single packet ARDUINO has an 8 bit structure try using something faster and better like stm32 or esp32 they both are completely compatible with Arduino will give a better accuracy and higher speed the oled display might have given a small delay in the transmission action so try to use it raw or use a different display
Ty so much, I really appreciate that 🙂 Yes, only 32 bytes per packet, this shouldn't be too big of a deal though. Agreed, Arduino can be quite limiting. But for this specific project I want to stick with it. The main reason being it makes the project more approachable. I do plan on making a "pro" version of this controller that's powered by a teensy. I'll be able to use a muchhhh better screen which is exciting.
Been thinking about streaming... but i would feel embarrassed when i work on something and show when I'm struggling for hours on something. 12 hours debugging on stream, respect
I have used Shift registers and multiplexers before. I have seen projects with IO extenders, I want to try them out one day. But it got me thinking - is it cheaper to buy one of those or just another micro controller? Not Arduino, but plain chip. Doesn't need to do much, there are cheaper micro controllers than Atmel as well. EEVBlog Dave tested some 20 cent Chinese micro controllers. Plus it can do more than multiplexing, you could offload driving an LED matrix or processing rotary encoders from the main processor. Using 2 or 3 micro controllers seems overkill a bit, but if cost allows it might actual make sense instead of specialised chips like IO extenders. One exception - sadly i dint recall the part number - I saw a little boards for driving six capacitive buttons. Thats worth it. You can make your own capacitive buttons an run them with Arduino, but that dedicated chip with six inputs auto calibrated for your design and helped distinguishing witch button you press from the nearby buttons.
if i can avoid using multiple mcu's id prefer to purely to reduce complexity (obviously what i was trying to do was also complex, but i didnt end up doing it thank god), but you are absolutely right. If i did end up needing more gpio, a second mcu wouldve been better than w/e i was doing.
@AecertRobotics it feels like over-kill. But having let's say one or two cheap MCUs can save extra ICs and it can be cheaper than one Atmega2560 per se. Thought less chips is less complexity on PCB.
Really nice, I like it a lot! I was not sure if I should join the stream and advice you to skip Arduino Nano and nRF interially. I think it is now too late to suggest doing this with ESP32 and ESP-NOW as protocol? Also avoiding the SPI TFT and Shift registers and replacing it with I²C modules was a good choice.
Thanks!! For this specific controller I really wanted to stick with Arduino if possible. I do want to make another one though that uses the teensy, although I should definitely look into the esp as well. Thanks yeah that first screen was a massive mistake with the Arduino lol. With the teensy though... I can't wait to use it!
The TFT touch displays are fun ;-) Not sure what library you used, but the Bodmer TFT_eSPI is my go-to. I developed on a Pico, and you need to make sure you're using the appropriate SPI/MISO pins, and get the chip select pin right.
Hey man , how long to launch the part 2 of this video? I'm anxious. I printed and assembled all mechanical and 3D parts but I need more details about remote control. Could you please publish the remote control final video? :)
the reason that the capasitor worked is because it dampens the noice coming from the regulator (i had the same problem and i ordered a custom pcb for the antena version that was a 3.3v regulator meaning when i plug it in to the 5v on the arduino i get a flat 3.3v out the other end)
My instinct would be not to connect the rotary encoder to the shift register, preferably inte... OH YOU FIGURED IT OUT GREAT. If you want to be a little evil, you can use inline resistors instead of voltage dividers for the screen or your 3.3V SPI devices in general. The extra current gets absorbed by ESD diodes on the ICs, shifting the voltage. Though at this point i would probably run not walk towards microcontrollers with 3.3V IO because honestly what 5V device are you going to connect, in this day and age, in year 2023? And if you find one, fine, you still have some 5V-tolerant pins, and 5V devices do read 3.3V as logic high. Also with a modern micro, you're going to update that SPI full colour screen smooth like butter like a criminal undercover gon pop like trouble breaking into your heart like that; cool shade stunner yeah i owe it all to my mother hot like summer i'm making you sweat like that. (sorry, i had to sing) The voltage shifter you have has its 5V side on side B and 3.3V side on side A. I hope you haven't used it in reverse? Because your arrows on the screen show the reverse, and if you did, i can't tell you whether it's even still alive. Also observe the OE (output enable) function, needs to be high with A-side reference voltage, but enabled preferably after power bring-up. Where are you setting up CE (chip enable) aka CS (chip select) functionality? You have two SPI devices, you have one SPI port, they are going to be in parallel, disambiguated by CS lines, that you need to set up in the corresponding libraries for both of the functional units or nothing will ever work, and if you yeet the code for the other device, you still have to do something with the corresponding CS pin to disable it. If either of the devices doesn't have CS, you can't use them together. Also whatever level shifting shenanigans you engage in, you probably want to do them before both units right out your micro.
The amount of hours and hard work you have put in is amazing. It's honestly so inspiring.
Man, I learned SO much from this video stream. Honestly, so many blind spots in my knowledge I didn't even know I had. Something about collective input from so many minds is quite great.
As always really informative and funny, I love the way make fun of your fails and setback. This is the way ! Good work 🙂
Thank you so much!
0:42 Absolutely... me too
Watching this project from the start has me very excited for the final reaults! It looks amazing!
bro this is impressive af. keep up the good work fr, fr.
thank you so much 🙂
12:19 was my favorite part 😻
Great video! It was a lot of fun watching the streams
Thanks! I'm really glad to hear that :)
a born master, best hexapod project period!! loved it from the start, great stuff!
Thank you so much ♥️
FINALLY NEW VIDEO!
ikr 😄
Wow beyond impressive as a electronics hobbyist i could definitely say you the best demonstration of a project from idea to project great video
Few suggestions
Nrf24 can only transmitt or receive 32 bytes of data in a single packet
ARDUINO has an 8 bit structure try using something faster and better like stm32 or esp32 they both are completely compatible with Arduino will give a better accuracy and higher speed the oled display might have given a small delay in the transmission action so try to use it raw or use a different display
Ty so much, I really appreciate that 🙂
Yes, only 32 bytes per packet, this shouldn't be too big of a deal though.
Agreed, Arduino can be quite limiting. But for this specific project I want to stick with it. The main reason being it makes the project more approachable.
I do plan on making a "pro" version of this controller that's powered by a teensy. I'll be able to use a muchhhh better screen which is exciting.
Been thinking about streaming... but i would feel embarrassed when i work on something and show when I'm struggling for hours on something. 12 hours debugging on stream, respect
Yeah i feel ya. For me it helps stick with it. If i wasn't streaming maybe i give up.
Obviously i wasnt planning on getting stuck for so long though 🤣
The "... Or so i thought", is basically Vsauce's "... Or is it?"
I have used Shift registers and multiplexers before. I have seen projects with IO extenders, I want to try them out one day. But it got me thinking - is it cheaper to buy one of those or just another micro controller? Not Arduino, but plain chip. Doesn't need to do much, there are cheaper micro controllers than Atmel as well. EEVBlog Dave tested some 20 cent Chinese micro controllers.
Plus it can do more than multiplexing, you could offload driving an LED matrix or processing rotary encoders from the main processor. Using 2 or 3 micro controllers seems overkill a bit, but if cost allows it might actual make sense instead of specialised chips like IO extenders.
One exception - sadly i dint recall the part number - I saw a little boards for driving six capacitive buttons. Thats worth it. You can make your own capacitive buttons an run them with Arduino, but that dedicated chip with six inputs auto calibrated for your design and helped distinguishing witch button you press from the nearby buttons.
if i can avoid using multiple mcu's id prefer to purely to reduce complexity (obviously what i was trying to do was also complex, but i didnt end up doing it thank god), but you are absolutely right.
If i did end up needing more gpio, a second mcu wouldve been better than w/e i was doing.
@AecertRobotics it feels like over-kill. But having let's say one or two cheap MCUs can save extra ICs and it can be cheaper than one Atmega2560 per se.
Thought less chips is less complexity on PCB.
where is part 2?
???????????????????????
For the stats, a "max jump height" would be nice as well.
Really nice, I like it a lot!
I was not sure if I should join the stream and advice you to skip Arduino Nano and nRF interially. I think it is now too late to suggest doing this with ESP32 and ESP-NOW as protocol?
Also avoiding the SPI TFT and Shift registers and replacing it with I²C modules was a good choice.
Thanks!!
For this specific controller I really wanted to stick with Arduino if possible. I do want to make another one though that uses the teensy, although I should definitely look into the esp as well.
Thanks yeah that first screen was a massive mistake with the Arduino lol. With the teensy though... I can't wait to use it!
The TFT touch displays are fun ;-) Not sure what library you used, but the Bodmer TFT_eSPI is my go-to. I developed on a Pico, and you need to make sure you're using the appropriate SPI/MISO pins, and get the chip select pin right.
Hey man , how long to launch the part 2 of this video? I'm anxious. I printed and assembled all mechanical and 3D parts but I need more details about remote control. Could you please publish the remote control final video? :)
did this project stall , was coming along well then been 7 months ,hope everything is ok
Project was fine, but I had to take a break for multiple reasons. A new video is out now though and im back at it!
What servo are you using for the hexapod currently???
Hey, I am waiting for 3 months for the part 2. Still not there.
Believe it or not, I just published part 2 this morning!! th-cam.com/video/5HMcu1hZ4Bg/w-d-xo.htmlsi=e7CckuEurHnSFtK7
Is there any way I can contact you? I'm working on a mini project and I need some help.
I would highly recommend joining my discord
How long before you start selling kits, I would love one!
Bro where are you man ? where is part 2 ?????
Took a very long break for a multitude of reasons (moved, got married, promotion, etc) but I'm back now! (with a new update video that's live!)
Bravo sir.
Nice!
Can you add camera for object tracking or defining? also congrats good job on it
what happened to the streams man?
Yo jus wondering what happened to your old origami channel? Did u just quit it or what happened exactly
The benefits just weren't worth the amount of effort required unfortunately
What capacitor value soldered on nrf with antenna?
@@agunghartama9382 Currently it's a 50v, 10uf capacitor
@ Ok, thank u, i’ll try it
Can you please make a smaller version using mg90s servos please. This is war too expensive
may i point out that 90 degree corners on a pcb are not desireble so pls watch out for that ;) this is also the case when joining 2 traces togather
the reason that the capasitor worked is because it dampens the noice coming from the regulator (i had the same problem and i ordered a custom pcb for the antena version that was a 3.3v regulator meaning when i plug it in to the 5v on the arduino i get a flat 3.3v out the other end)
Great
instead of adding a nerf gun to the robot, you should add a gel blaster, lighter, more powerful, more range, and better. 💯
Napalm spider! OK, time for me to start building!
hope you doing to me more than in full tutorial
Part 2 will be covering me finishing this project, and then after that I will release a full tutorial video + a kit you can buy!
@@AecertRoboticsSo excited for this!! When do you think they’ll be ready to ship?
My instinct would be not to connect the rotary encoder to the shift register, preferably inte...
OH YOU FIGURED IT OUT GREAT.
If you want to be a little evil, you can use inline resistors instead of voltage dividers for the screen or your 3.3V SPI devices in general. The extra current gets absorbed by ESD diodes on the ICs, shifting the voltage. Though at this point i would probably run not walk towards microcontrollers with 3.3V IO because honestly what 5V device are you going to connect, in this day and age, in year 2023? And if you find one, fine, you still have some 5V-tolerant pins, and 5V devices do read 3.3V as logic high. Also with a modern micro, you're going to update that SPI full colour screen smooth like butter like a criminal undercover gon pop like trouble breaking into your heart like that; cool shade stunner yeah i owe it all to my mother hot like summer i'm making you sweat like that. (sorry, i had to sing)
The voltage shifter you have has its 5V side on side B and 3.3V side on side A. I hope you haven't used it in reverse? Because your arrows on the screen show the reverse, and if you did, i can't tell you whether it's even still alive. Also observe the OE (output enable) function, needs to be high with A-side reference voltage, but enabled preferably after power bring-up.
Where are you setting up CE (chip enable) aka CS (chip select) functionality? You have two SPI devices, you have one SPI port, they are going to be in parallel, disambiguated by CS lines, that you need to set up in the corresponding libraries for both of the functional units or nothing will ever work, and if you yeet the code for the other device, you still have to do something with the corresponding CS pin to disable it. If either of the devices doesn't have CS, you can't use them together. Also whatever level shifting shenanigans you engage in, you probably want to do them before both units right out your micro.
What happened to this project?
Project was fine, life + mental health got in the way though.
With that said, a new update video has been posted and im back at it!
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