Laser Safety is Paramount -- Exactly. Calculate laser power. Calculate 1% pass of $1500 glass lens laser goggles. Calculate that even they won't really stop enough of the average 3 and 5 watt lasers sold now. The plastic goggles etc stop the average little bit of stray light from the surrounding area, and most of a white scattered reflection. If you get a real reflection or beam strike, it is not remotely enough to stop it before it burns a line into your retina. (Your eyes are constantly moving side to side at 70 hz, even if you close your eye without moving your eyes you'll still get short lines, not points.) Use a camera and an old monitor, make a video remote viewing system. Use as normal with the laser off for testing, then power the laser and be on the other side of the monitor. Monitor and maybe a 4 or 6 inch border frame around it makes a pretty good light block. With just a down pointed engraving laser you're unlikely to get a strong stray reflection making it around through a more complex path without mirrors in the room.. An old 24" monitor and cheap cam hooked to it is close to free. A bit of a hassle, but much better than risking your eyesight. If you have any doubts, ask any welder who was a bit too slack with the eye protection when they were younger, they'll tell you it's not worth damaging your eyesight. Take the bit of extra time and hassle. Especially if you're using the laser in a fixed location most of the time, it's not that big of a deal to have the light block and monitor set up.
Tip -: run some string through the cable chain when you insert the majority of the wiring and then use that to pull the laser cable through by attaching the string to the cable.
Man I'm glad I saved all my laser safety glasses I worked in a facility in Lansing Michigan where we dealt with lasers we actually came up with a really really really advanced DNA proteomic scanning device that used several color lasers so I have like dozens of those nice glasses for every wavelength you can think of
It's all about feeds and speeds. Run tests. You'll find acceleration and high speed have weak effectiveness but if it gives you the results you want there are no limits. I'd start slow and increase with test results.
@Makers Mashup Could you please upload the STEP or F3D files? I've started sourcing parts to build an L301, but will need to modify the mounts for the laser, air assist, and drag chain. Also, it looks like there is a part missing to hold the belt to the CarriageBeltBody.
I guess I missed something. Did you connected both ports on the laser module (4 pins and the other with 2 pins)? Video only shows you connecting the cable that goes to the laser... Thanks!
I bought a BTT SKR V2 instead of the 1.4. I have been trying to compile the firmware with no success. Do you have any instructions/changes or even just the firmware bin file?
I successfully flashed your firmware making the necessary changes for my bed size and board. In Motion, when I move the x axis or y axis to the max setting, it only travels half way across the bed. I used 300mm 2020 extrusions and set my bed to X220 and Y190. Is there something I missed?
Great work and well done for keeping safety a priority and still making it easy to use. Do you think this configuration is suitable for a CO2 laser, adding a tube and mirrors/lens to the structure? Probably a safety hazard doing this because of the open frame and the high voltages needed for the laser. I did watch Further Fabrications magnificent build of a CO2 laser but it is out of my reach, even with the detailed plans he sells. Maybe a CO2 laser needs a more sophisticated structure. About configuring Marlin for a laser, did you do a video about this? I’d really like to see this because I have only basic knowledge of changing Marlin.
In theory you could modify this for C02 and add an enclosure. Would really need to think it through but it would need an enclosure and considerably more hardware. 🙂
@@librarymark TH-cam is your friend in this. Try looking for videos about setting up the Marlin Firmware. There is a lot more to it than I can explain in a youtube comment, but its easier than it seems. Also you can try the Discord and see if they still have the Firmware from when they hepled me.
Could you please share the model of your laser module ? I bought the Neje A30130 but it seems to be longer than yours and doesn't fit the mount at all. I'm not capable of designing a new mount.
@@MakersMashup Sorry, that link doesn't work. And if it's the link to the BOM then it doesn't say anything about the laser, and neither does the (outdated) Amazon page.
I am connecting an Ortur LU1-3 to this setup. I have split the (V+, GND, SIG) into (V+,GND) and (SIG, GND) so that I can run power directly from the 12V powersupply so as not to potentially overheat or overwhelm the skr 1.4 turbo board. Where should I plug I the Signal and "it's"(shared) ground so as not to fry the signal reception portion of the lasers integrated control board or otherwise. Sorry this is kind of an off kilter question, but I cannot find a reliable or direct answer about how much voltage the PWM can handle on this 12V, 15W(in) -> 7W light (out) module I don't want to burn up 100+ dollar laser by not asking Thank you in advance!! Happy printing!
@@MakersMashup Completely understand the busy part and like @Ronny Julian said, 'Take your time'. I've already got my base frame assembled with motors. looking forward to completing the rest of the build.
If you consult the SKR manual for the 1.4 I have it set in uart mode. While not looking at the board or manual I think it is just 1 jumper one up from the bottom. If you check the manual super quick you'll know for sure. Just don't remember off hand without looking.
I completed my laser engraver and was testing it out. Everything seems to be working ok but I noticed the air assist fan doesn’t come on when I trigger the laser. What triggers the air assist. I know it isn’t an always on fan. I plugged it into Fan 0.
To what Terminal the TTL Signal of the laser goes to? The skr 1.4 mosfet is switchig ground.. Not 12v. So wich Wire of the laser Board is connected to which Port in the btt?
@@MakersMashup which Wire goes to what? So on the laser you have the Wire TTL and the Wire ground. Does ttl (pwm) from the laser goes to + on the skr? Or to -.
hello, good day, can I put the skr2 instead of this card and how difficult is it to configure it for this project? Do you recommend that or is there another one that I could put thanks for the help
It won't you'll need to copy the relavant settings from the config to a Marlin 2.0. Just takes a little longer to compare but easy to do. Just walk through configuration.h. And configuration_adv.h
The way that its mounted its behind the laser takes up space. If you have the back 5015 fan on it sticks out and if you moved to back it will collide with the extrusion and belts in the back of the frame. A compressor air assist would be much improved over the 5015 on the back. Cheap way to do it but effective vs. nothing.
You could use it but no real reason to home it. Just move manually to 0.0. If you want you can add limits or sensorless homing. Lasers generally work a little differently than 3d printers.
@@MakersMashup thanks for the fast reply! I want to use the design in a robot which uses a laser to eleminate weeds between paving stones. To accomplish that, it has to be able to move the laser head exactly to the position where the software localised the center of the weed. Thats why I would need to home the device. I would not use it for laser engraving:D
Thanks for the heads up. Unfortunately its nearly impossible to keep up with changing products at amazon. If you use the description and video you should be able to find everything you need. I'll try and circle back to review them.
That might not work quite the same way. The laser I use has only 2 pins for the pwm. I would consult the documentation for yours to see how to properly wire that.
@@MakersMashup Have tried with GND and SIGNAL on E0 and 12v directly on the supply, it seems to work Can control turn off laser but it is a bit strange at pwm then I must first turn it off and on again so when I am completely sure how to set it up I put it out so you have both versions
@@MakersMashup Thanks. I see in today's video, there is no extrusion on the X gantry, just the linear rail correct? Would that also be correct if I later want to turn this into a Core XY printer. Thanks. PS I just bought Lightburn per your recommendation.
If you download the latest version of marlin with skr2 support you just need to copy the relavant settings fro. Configuration.h and configuration.adv. will take about 15 minutes to compare the files but that will get you an skr2 version of the configuration. Dont forget to update the motherboard line with the skr2 motherboard name.
I solve it: exchange 2.0 to 1.4 with someone xD but missing part that you connect laser to board because I see just you connect it to second power supply with that DC jack, have you diagram of that?
I noticed you have these pins defines in configuration_adv.h: #define SPINDLE_LASER_ENA_PIN P2_04 and #define SPINDLE_LASER_PWM_PIN P2_07 . P2_07 is Heater 0 and p2_04 is HEATER1. I'm confused by this. It looks like you are connecting the PWM wires to the Heater 0 spot. Am I missing something? Is P2_04 pin not used? Thanks for the great videos BTW!
You're absolutely correct. I used the Heater PWM vs the Fan PWM. Entirely up to you which one you want to use. I presumed the heater PWM was the norm but after these videos saw many others (including LightBurn) use the fan PWM. I used the fan PWM for my air assist. It is all easy to change up so I may change that in a future version of my build but it does indeed work fine with my laser fine. I'm only using 12v which IIRC is in the voltage range of the laser's module.
@@MakersMashup I'm gonna give it a try using your method and see how it works. Been doing a bit of research and am getting my head wrapped around it now. To be absolutely honest, I'm using your Marlin config as a reference for my own Marlin build as I'm installing a Neje 7.5w laser module on my home built CNC machi9ne. Thanks for your reply, I really appreciate the info you provide.
@@MakersMashup Man you're so awesome thanks for getting back one last question and I won't bug you your laser has the separate controller and I see your fan is screwed straight to the top of it The laser I bought has a little square board that's in between the fan and the laser itself and it only has a three wire cable coming off of it is this going to be the wrong laser to use
That's not how you build a cable chain you take it apart it's really super easy you lay all the cables in the center and then you pop it back together it's really really easy again I'm a robotics engineer by trade
That is a closed cable chain, it doesn't open to lay cabling in.. It doesn't pop open. Disassembling each link would be an incredible waste of time. If it was an open chain then yeah, I'd be doing it the wrong way.
Laser Safety is Paramount -- Exactly.
Calculate laser power. Calculate 1% pass of $1500 glass lens laser goggles. Calculate that even they won't really stop enough of the average 3 and 5 watt lasers sold now.
The plastic goggles etc stop the average little bit of stray light from the surrounding area, and most of a white scattered reflection. If you get a real reflection or beam strike, it is not remotely enough to stop it before it burns a line into your retina. (Your eyes are constantly moving side to side at 70 hz, even if you close your eye without moving your eyes you'll still get short lines, not points.)
Use a camera and an old monitor, make a video remote viewing system. Use as normal with the laser off for testing, then power the laser and be on the other side of the monitor. Monitor and maybe a 4 or 6 inch border frame around it makes a pretty good light block. With just a down pointed engraving laser you're unlikely to get a strong stray reflection making it around through a more complex path without mirrors in the room..
An old 24" monitor and cheap cam hooked to it is close to free. A bit of a hassle, but much better than risking your eyesight.
If you have any doubts, ask any welder who was a bit too slack with the eye protection when they were younger, they'll tell you it's not worth damaging your eyesight. Take the bit of extra time and hassle.
Especially if you're using the laser in a fixed location most of the time, it's not that big of a deal to have the light block and monitor set up.
Can you link to one of these monitors? I'm having difficulties finding something compact and simple
Tip -: run some string through the cable chain when you insert the majority of the wiring and then use that to pull the laser cable through by attaching the string to the cable.
Is it possible you can show a diagram on that patch cable, because usually you use a fan port for pwm, else a real great job you do
Hi I like the design but how would you add a rotary? Usually the y axis controls the rotary.
Man I'm glad I saved all my laser safety glasses I worked in a facility in Lansing Michigan where we dealt with lasers we actually came up with a really really really advanced DNA proteomic scanning device that used several color lasers so I have like dozens of those nice glasses for every wavelength you can think of
thanks great video, just curious how fast you can run with engrave, my actuall machine max is 6000, im curious will be this build work faster as well?
It's all about feeds and speeds. Run tests. You'll find acceleration and high speed have weak effectiveness but if it gives you the results you want there are no limits. I'd start slow and increase with test results.
Hi, my laser diode board has a socket that is marked TTL , can I plug a PWM signal there?
Thank you
@Makers Mashup Could you please upload the STEP or F3D files? I've started sourcing parts to build an L301, but will need to modify the mounts for the laser, air assist, and drag chain. Also, it looks like there is a part missing to hold the belt to the CarriageBeltBody.
Could i replace Ramps with the TFT screen with the same marlin program
Will it support and show the icons for engraving in the TFT
I guess I missed something. Did you connected both ports on the laser module (4 pins and the other with 2 pins)? Video only shows you connecting the cable that goes to the laser... Thanks!
Will you follow up on using this as a vinyl cutter or pen plotter? I could really use it to cut some vinyl logos.
Good call out. Thanks for the reminder.. Plotter is easy will start with that next.
I bought a BTT SKR V2 instead of the 1.4. I have been trying to compile the firmware with no success. Do you have any instructions/changes or even just the firmware bin file?
I am having similar issues, I have tried to compile and i keep getting errors.
I successfully flashed your firmware making the necessary changes for my bed size and board. In Motion, when I move the x axis or y axis to the max setting, it only travels half way across the bed. I used 300mm 2020 extrusions and set my bed to X220 and Y190. Is there something I missed?
This looks good!
Great work and well done for keeping safety a priority and still making it easy to use.
Do you think this configuration is suitable for a CO2 laser, adding a tube and mirrors/lens to the structure? Probably a safety hazard doing this because of the open frame and the high voltages needed for the laser. I did watch Further Fabrications magnificent build of a CO2 laser but it is out of my reach, even with the detailed plans he sells. Maybe a CO2 laser needs a more sophisticated structure.
About configuring Marlin for a laser, did you do a video about this? I’d really like to see this because I have only basic knowledge of changing Marlin.
In theory you could modify this for C02 and add an enclosure. Would really need to think it through but it would need an enclosure and considerably more hardware. 🙂
Chili's
chicken fried steak
So I am ready to load the firmware and realize I don't have a clue where to start. How does it work? Is there a binary somewhere?
I second this!
@@seig2154 Freddie - did you make any progress on this?
@@librarymark TH-cam is your friend in this. Try looking for videos about setting up the Marlin Firmware. There is a lot more to it than I can explain in a youtube comment, but its easier than it seems. Also you can try the Discord and see if they still have the Firmware from when they hepled me.
Gibts denn hierzu auch mal Updates?? Vermisse ich irgendwie, dass auf diesen Laser nicht näher eingegangen wird!!
nur die beiden Videos. Welche Informationen fehlen Ihnen Ihrer Meinung nach?
Could you please share the model of your laser module ? I bought the Neje A30130 but it seems to be longer than yours and doesn't fit the mount at all. I'm not capable of designing a new mount.
bitbucket.org/makersmashup/l301/src/master/ should give you everything you need.
@@MakersMashup Sorry, that link doesn't work. And if it's the link to the BOM then it doesn't say anything about the laser, and neither does the (outdated) Amazon page.
Could you please tell me the length of the laser module housing ?
I am connecting an Ortur LU1-3 to this setup. I have split the (V+, GND, SIG) into (V+,GND) and (SIG, GND) so that I can run power directly from the 12V powersupply so as not to potentially overheat or overwhelm the skr 1.4 turbo board. Where should I plug I the Signal and "it's"(shared) ground so as not to fry the signal reception portion of the lasers integrated control board or otherwise.
Sorry this is kind of an off kilter question, but I cannot find a reliable or direct answer about how much voltage the PWM can handle on this 12V, 15W(in) -> 7W light (out) module
I don't want to burn up 100+ dollar laser by not asking
Thank you in advance!!
Happy printing!
The electronics box cooling fan is not in the BOM - got a link?
Any 12v 60mm fan. I used these amzn.to/3fOyYde and I will update the BOM. Thanks for pointing out the omission.
The safety glass video you linked to is listed as private.
Yeah seems he changed it some time ago.
Is the BOM being posted Monday? Great stuff! Glad to see this drop tonight as I'm going to start building the frame Monday! Thanks!
Probably wont be until tomorrow. Today was a bit busier than I expected but its at the top of my list. Trying to get the firmware up there too.
@@MakersMashup Just checking... Take your time. Thanks!
@@MakersMashup Completely understand the busy part and like @Ronny Julian said, 'Take your time'. I've already got my base frame assembled with motors. looking forward to completing the rest of the build.
Me again lol, do you have a link to that inline power switch, that looks pretty handy and I didn't see it on the BOM.
Sorry for the delay. amzn.to/3jFuurv
@@MakersMashup Thank you!
do you have any jumpers set beneath your TMC2209 drivers, if yes, which ones? Thanks in advance!
If you consult the SKR manual for the 1.4 I have it set in uart mode. While not looking at the board or manual I think it is just 1 jumper one up from the bottom. If you check the manual super quick you'll know for sure. Just don't remember off hand without looking.
@@MakersMashup Thank you for the super prompt response! Great video by the way!
I completed my laser engraver and was testing it out. Everything seems to be working ok but I noticed the air assist fan doesn’t come on when I trigger the laser. What triggers the air assist. I know it isn’t an always on fan. I plugged it into Fan 0.
I believe I set a gcode value or ticked a box inside lightburn for air assist. Doesn't come on by default.
did you do the drag knife mod for this yet?
No but I can quickly. I'll try and do that later this week.
To what Terminal the TTL Signal of the laser goes to? The skr 1.4 mosfet is switchig ground.. Not 12v. So wich Wire of the laser Board is connected to which Port in the btt?
I use the heat bed pwm but you can also use the hot end fan pwm. Either works.
@@MakersMashup which Wire goes to what? So on the laser you have the Wire TTL and the Wire ground. Does ttl (pwm) from the laser goes to + on the skr? Or to -.
hello, good day, can I put the skr2 instead of this card and how difficult is it to configure it for this project? Do you recommend that or is there another one that I could put thanks for the help
SKR 2 will work fine. You can even us an 8 bit board as long as marlin 2.0 compiles on it.
@@MakersMashup thanks with the same firmware that you show us in this project it works because I see in another comment that it doesn't compile?
It won't you'll need to copy the relavant settings from the config to a Marlin 2.0. Just takes a little longer to compare but easy to do. Just walk through configuration.h. And configuration_adv.h
Marlin 2, skr2 config.
@@MakersMashup ok thank you very much I will try it I hope it is not difficult :) greetings friend have a nice day
I totally don't understand why air assist would affect the size in any way?
The way that its mounted its behind the laser takes up space. If you have the back 5015 fan on it sticks out and if you moved to back it will collide with the extrusion and belts in the back of the frame. A compressor air assist would be much improved over the 5015 on the back. Cheap way to do it but effective vs. nothing.
I have this project all fabbed up. Now - can anyone point me to a compiled copy of the firmware?
Still meeting with zero success trying to compile the software. Please will someone post a firmware bin for this thing?
Pop into the discord and mention me. I can likely help you. What board are you using? The repo should have bin files for the board used in the video.
How does the system home itself? I cant see any limit switches? Does is use Sensorless Homing? thanks in advance for your reply
You could use it but no real reason to home it. Just move manually to 0.0. If you want you can add limits or sensorless homing. Lasers generally work a little differently than 3d printers.
@@MakersMashup thanks for the fast reply! I want to use the design in a robot which uses a laser to eleminate weeds between paving stones. To accomplish that, it has to be able to move the laser head exactly to the position where the software localised the center of the weed. Thats why I would need to home the device. I would not use it for laser engraving:D
@@MakersMashupThe link for the belt in your BOM redirects to a 9mm one, while your pulleys etc are 6mm in width. The belt should be 6mm right?
Yes. The link may be an old one. Any standard 3d printer belt will work.
I tried the links for parts to be able to buy from Amazon and a bunch are unavailable
Thanks for the heads up. Unfortunately its nearly impossible to keep up with changing products at amazon. If you use the description and video you should be able to find everything you need. I'll try and circle back to review them.
Where do you get the signal on the motherboard, as I see it, it is only the supply you take on the two outputs
Signal for PWM? I just pull it from the E0 but you can pull it from any pwm capable pin.
@@MakersMashup This means I only have to use the PLUS leg as a signal when I have a 3 leg laser (+ 12V, GND, SIGNAL)
And they take the supply elsewhere
That might not work quite the same way. The laser I use has only 2 pins for the pwm. I would consult the documentation for yours to see how to properly wire that.
@@MakersMashup Have tried with GND and SIGNAL on E0 and 12v directly on the supply, it seems to work
Can control turn off laser but it is a bit strange at pwm then I must first turn it off and on again so when I am completely sure how to set it up I put it out so you have both versions
Can this work with the ramps controller board?
Sure. The enclosure might not fit but you could use a ramps board or any other Marlin compatible board.
I have a spare ender 3 motherboard.
Would this work for a project like this?
Sure would.
How do I calculate the length of belt I need (coreXY). I ordered 3 500mm linear rails. Thanks.
Length of extrusion X 6 is a good Length per belt with some to spare.
@@MakersMashup Thanks. I see in today's video, there is no extrusion on the X gantry, just the linear rail correct? Would that also be correct if I later want to turn this into a Core XY printer. Thanks. PS I just bought Lightburn per your recommendation.
@@MakersMashup can I use your firmware with skr e3 mini 1.2
Can I use creality 4.2.2 board instead of 1.4 turbo? I have one not using from ender 3 V2
If you're able to flash Marlin on it I don't see why not.
@@MakersMashup i realize 4.2.2 is 24V board so i bought skr 2.0, but then i realize its not included in your version of marlin :(
If you download the latest version of marlin with skr2 support you just need to copy the relavant settings fro. Configuration.h and configuration.adv. will take about 15 minutes to compare the files but that will get you an skr2 version of the configuration. Dont forget to update the motherboard line with the skr2 motherboard name.
I solve it: exchange 2.0 to 1.4 with someone xD but missing part that you connect laser to board because I see just you connect it to second power supply with that DC jack, have you diagram of that?
Not following what your asking. The skr power comes from the jack. Laser power is separate if you're using the same laser.
I noticed you have these pins defines in configuration_adv.h: #define SPINDLE_LASER_ENA_PIN P2_04 and #define SPINDLE_LASER_PWM_PIN P2_07 . P2_07 is Heater 0 and p2_04 is HEATER1. I'm confused by this. It looks like you are connecting the PWM wires to the Heater 0 spot. Am I missing something? Is P2_04 pin not used? Thanks for the great videos BTW!
You're absolutely correct. I used the Heater PWM vs the Fan PWM. Entirely up to you which one you want to use. I presumed the heater PWM was the norm but after these videos saw many others (including LightBurn) use the fan PWM. I used the fan PWM for my air assist. It is all easy to change up so I may change that in a future version of my build but it does indeed work fine with my laser fine. I'm only using 12v which IIRC is in the voltage range of the laser's module.
@@MakersMashup I'm gonna give it a try using your method and see how it works. Been doing a bit of research and am getting my head wrapped around it now. To be absolutely honest, I'm using your Marlin config as a reference for my own Marlin build as I'm installing a Neje 7.5w laser module on my home built CNC machi9ne. Thanks for your reply, I really appreciate the info you provide.
So using your firmware what about a SKR e3 mini version 1.2
Should be no problem you only need an X and Y.
@@MakersMashup Man you're so awesome thanks for getting back one last question and I won't bug you your laser has the separate controller and I see your fan is screwed straight to the top of it The laser I bought has a little square board that's in between the fan and the laser itself and it only has a three wire cable coming off of it is this going to be the wrong laser to use
Can you share the cad files? I'd like to convert this to linear rails
The fusion files should already be in the Makers Mashup repo. It already has linear rails though...
@@MakersMashup Okay thank you
That's not how you build a cable chain you take it apart it's really super easy you lay all the cables in the center and then you pop it back together it's really really easy again I'm a robotics engineer by trade
That is a closed cable chain, it doesn't open to lay cabling in.. It doesn't pop open. Disassembling each link would be an incredible waste of time. If it was an open chain then yeah, I'd be doing it the wrong way.
would have liked a bit more on the install of the firmware etc. man your 3d prints look like crap