These are also necessary for many houses with silverware drawers with mushwood (MDF) or wood paneling for the rear bracket mounting. Had I realized that I needed to search for "RV wall anchor" videos for my house cabinetry, I would have saved a lot of time and I'm very certain that I'm not alone. Thanks for the video!
Speaking of drying clothes...I watched a video the other day where a family hung their clean wet clothes in the shower of their 5th wheel and stuck a dehumidifier in there too with the ceiling vent fan. She said that dried their clothes fairly quick.
I'll put a video together at some point of the washing/drying setup I use. Works well. I have the vent fan open as well and use a 20" box fan and lay it down in the shower with the fan blowing up to the hanging clothes. If connected to shore power, I'll also use a space heater and blow the heat into the fan and then close the bathroom door. It dries clothes quite quickly with this method.
I'm trying to figure out how to hang some bamboo roller blinds in my trailer. Would I be right in thinking that there would be studs all the way around all the windows? Seems to me like the framing of the walls would go around the doors, windows, openings in general.. because if studs are present where I want to put screws, this won't work.. but these are a great idea for if they aren't! Thanks! The blinds I plan to hang are 12lbs each, but when pulling on the cord to roll them up, would be considerably more.. think 2 of these would hold that weight in a trailer?
Sorry, just seeing this! It's hard to say for sure of there are studs around the windows and if so, if they'll be made of wood or metal. What I'd do is figure out where the holes need to go and then drill a 1/8" hole. You'll know right away if there's a wood or metal stud there. If it's wood, then use a wood screw to mount the blind. If it's metal, use a self-tapping metal screw. If it's hollow, then expand the hole to appropriate size for the wall anchor and use the anchor. Hope this helps!
Great question! If it's clearly a hollow interior wall, the goal is to just go through the 1/8" or 3/16" Luan and then stop the drill. Water lines are going to be in somewhat predictable locations down near the floor and not up high in the walls unless it's the back side of a shower. Even if there's a water line in the wall, it'll give if something pushes against it. It's not likely to be a rigid pipe in the wall that won't move and is tight to the Luan wall. Tough to explain in words. For the exterior on mine, it's all 2" thick Azdel with Styrofoam sandwiched in between the exterior and interior. There's no hollow area ro run electrical or plumbing on the exterior walls of mine.
What’s the heaviest thing you’ve hung with those? I’m having a bit of a dilemma trying to figure out how to mount my 32” TV on a hollow interior wall with no backer plate. Wondering if these may help.
Any TV is way too heavy to be supported by inserts through skimpy luan. You need to build a backer system. Usually plywood. If your mounting point backs up on a closet you can place a good size plywood backer on the other side of the wall. Otherwise you need to make up a mounting plate directly behind the TV. My idea of best practice would be to make the plate big enough to be able to screw into horizontal structure where the wall meets the ceiling, IF there is any, as well as vertical structure:. Studs. Mist times you can figure out where the studs are by pressing hard on the wall. The cheesy luan will deflect. When you fing the spot where it is least flexy you have the stud. Do not expect it all to be on 16 inch centers because it isn't. Not even close . Your plate could very well and up visually off center to your RV mounting point. That's life in the RV world.
Great question. I've utilized these for hanging the retractable clothes hangers at the top of the shower. With wet towels hanging from them, it's probably been 20 pounds of outward pull on them which is not what their weight rating is designed for but it has worked flawlessly for me. If I were using 6+ of these anchors to mount a TV, I'd be fine with it. And, I'd fill the hollow wall with spray foam behind the TV for added rigidity. That being said, the other comment by SamFixit Guy is the proper way to handle things.
These two hints are just bad on so many levels. First consideration ignored is that the best of RVs is built like crap . That vinyl faced luan is not even 1/8" thick. It has no structure or strength. When you hang something on the string it creates a serious pull towards center. All it wants to do is rip those bases off the the wall. The right way to accomplish that one would be to use light steel closet rod on fittings mounted at the very top where you can tag into horizontal framing that actually has a modicum of strength . Be aware, advised; the claimed strength of those fasteners is an absolute straight down pull. Not a pull outwards. That's a disaster in the making. Next item. Drill a hole through the outer skin and rout away some of the structural foam? In RV language you're saying "Hey nature, this is where I want my wall delamination to start." That wing insert has no capability to keep our moisture. Couple that with the forces induced by a fastener pulling the micro thin outside laminate away from the foam? You guessed it, delamination . Great idea. Ok, so IF you ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY have to mount something to an outside wall like this and use these inserts and rout out, at least inject thickened epoxy into the cavity you have created to completely fill the space, then assemble the hardware and allow overnight for curing. Epoxy does not dry it cures. Chech out Gougeon Brothers West System Epoxies. Their printed booklets are among the best information abailable. This method will spread the forces a little bit, replace the destroyed bond, and completely seal out moisture, the killer of RVs. Be careful out there and use some common sense. If you have no background in this sort of thing, this is not the place to start.
Thanks for sharing your detailed thoughts. I respectfully disagree and could put a video together debunking your thoughts but I don't need to spend time doing that. You're confident in your ways and I'm confident in mine. I'm fine with that. Again, thanks for sharing your thoughts. Interesting to see the perspective of others.
These are also necessary for many houses with silverware drawers with mushwood (MDF) or wood paneling for the rear bracket mounting. Had I realized that I needed to search for "RV wall anchor" videos for my house cabinetry, I would have saved a lot of time and I'm very certain that I'm not alone. Thanks for the video!
Thank you so much, I have been searching for a way to install a shelf on the wall by the bed in our RV.
Great video, and glad to find the faucet made by us, we are manufacture of rv spare parts
Very cool!
Appreciate the information - we've been using command hooks everywhere for fear of making any holes....
Great tip actually
Thanks so much!
Speaking of drying clothes...I watched a video the other day where a family hung their clean wet clothes in the shower of their 5th wheel and stuck a dehumidifier in there too with the ceiling vent fan. She said that dried their clothes fairly quick.
I'll put a video together at some point of the washing/drying setup I use. Works well. I have the vent fan open as well and use a 20" box fan and lay it down in the shower with the fan blowing up to the hanging clothes. If connected to shore power, I'll also use a space heater and blow the heat into the fan and then close the bathroom door. It dries clothes quite quickly with this method.
Good tip thanks 😊
I'm trying to figure out how to hang some bamboo roller blinds in my trailer. Would I be right in thinking that there would be studs all the way around all the windows? Seems to me like the framing of the walls would go around the doors, windows, openings in general.. because if studs are present where I want to put screws, this won't work.. but these are a great idea for if they aren't! Thanks! The blinds I plan to hang are 12lbs each, but when pulling on the cord to roll them up, would be considerably more.. think 2 of these would hold that weight in a trailer?
Sorry, just seeing this! It's hard to say for sure of there are studs around the windows and if so, if they'll be made of wood or metal. What I'd do is figure out where the holes need to go and then drill a 1/8" hole. You'll know right away if there's a wood or metal stud there. If it's wood, then use a wood screw to mount the blind. If it's metal, use a self-tapping metal screw. If it's hollow, then expand the hole to appropriate size for the wall anchor and use the anchor. Hope this helps!
How do you know your not driving into a water line in these spot or wiring? There’s so many wires.
Great question! If it's clearly a hollow interior wall, the goal is to just go through the 1/8" or 3/16" Luan and then stop the drill. Water lines are going to be in somewhat predictable locations down near the floor and not up high in the walls unless it's the back side of a shower. Even if there's a water line in the wall, it'll give if something pushes against it. It's not likely to be a rigid pipe in the wall that won't move and is tight to the Luan wall. Tough to explain in words.
For the exterior on mine, it's all 2" thick Azdel with Styrofoam sandwiched in between the exterior and interior. There's no hollow area ro run electrical or plumbing on the exterior walls of mine.
What’s the heaviest thing you’ve hung with those? I’m having a bit of a dilemma trying to figure out how to mount my 32” TV on a hollow interior wall with no backer plate. Wondering if these may help.
Any TV is way too heavy to be supported by inserts through skimpy luan. You need to build a backer system. Usually plywood. If your mounting point backs up on a closet you can place a good size plywood backer on the other side of the wall. Otherwise you need to make up a mounting plate directly behind the TV. My idea of best practice would be to make the plate big enough to be able to screw into horizontal structure where the wall meets the ceiling, IF there is any, as well as vertical structure:. Studs. Mist times you can figure out where the studs are by pressing hard on the wall. The cheesy luan will deflect. When you fing the spot where it is least flexy you have the stud. Do not expect it all to be on 16 inch centers because it isn't. Not even close . Your plate could very well and up visually off center to your RV mounting point. That's life in the RV world.
Great question. I've utilized these for hanging the retractable clothes hangers at the top of the shower. With wet towels hanging from them, it's probably been 20 pounds of outward pull on them which is not what their weight rating is designed for but it has worked flawlessly for me.
If I were using 6+ of these anchors to mount a TV, I'd be fine with it. And, I'd fill the hollow wall with spray foam behind the TV for added rigidity. That being said, the other comment by SamFixit Guy is the proper way to handle things.
Most of the walls are only an 1 1/8" thick. So be sure to be careful when drilling into them. You can end up putting a bit through the wall.
Agreed. The only thing really being drilled through is the 1/8" panel and stop drill after making it through.
These two hints are just bad on so many levels. First consideration ignored is that the best of RVs is built like crap . That vinyl faced luan is not even 1/8" thick. It has no structure or strength. When you hang something on the string it creates a serious pull towards center. All it wants to do is rip those bases off the the wall. The right way to accomplish that one would be to use light steel closet rod on fittings mounted at the very top where you can tag into horizontal framing that actually has a modicum of strength . Be aware, advised; the claimed strength of those fasteners is an absolute straight down pull. Not a pull outwards. That's a disaster in the making.
Next item. Drill a hole through the outer skin and rout away some of the structural foam? In RV language you're saying "Hey nature, this is where I want my wall delamination to start." That wing insert has no capability to keep our moisture. Couple that with the forces induced by a fastener pulling the micro thin outside laminate away from the foam? You guessed it, delamination . Great idea. Ok, so IF you ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY have to mount something to an outside wall like this and use these inserts and rout out, at least inject thickened epoxy into the cavity you have created to completely fill the space, then assemble the hardware and allow overnight for curing. Epoxy does not dry it cures. Chech out Gougeon Brothers West System Epoxies. Their printed booklets are among the best information abailable. This method will spread the forces a little bit, replace the destroyed bond, and completely seal out moisture, the killer of RVs.
Be careful out there and use some common sense. If you have no background in this sort of thing, this is not the place to start.
Thanks for sharing your detailed thoughts. I respectfully disagree and could put a video together debunking your thoughts but I don't need to spend time doing that. You're confident in your ways and I'm confident in mine. I'm fine with that. Again, thanks for sharing your thoughts. Interesting to see the perspective of others.