A human being have to be at somewere at anytime, it is good to do some usesull things when you there somewere, like saving old OE 36. Man is satisfied when he can do challenging things, especially by hand, and see the result, I did it. Now the boat feels more like a trusted friend, I took care of her, she takes care of me on the sea. Thanks for the video.
Hi, you did a greate job. I like to watch your refit video. I found you yesterday while surfing in youtube. Just give your channel an abo. Now I have to check all the videos from the last 2 years. Greatings Mikel
It must take a lot of faith--and a lot of experience--to tackle a project like this, never knowing what you're going to uncover. Your English, by the way, is a pleasure to listen to.
@@sailingsmalldreamingbig9022 Believe me, there's nothing wrong with your English. It speaks well for the part of the world you come from. When I started listening to you I figured you were Scandinavian--maybe Swedish or Danish--and was a little surprised to hear that you're....I guess we Americans would call you "Eastern European." Keep up the good work!--and thanks for sharing all your technical know-how.. I hope your new boat doesn't give you too much trouble..
You have to love that Estonian winter!!! Just my opinion, but I would remove that old hidden tank and repurpose the space for a bigger, new fuel cell or maybe gain the space for a nice Lithium house battery bank.
congratulations to your very very good videos. I am already waiting for the next one to see your renovated mashine room and the place behind (among other things). Thanks a lot.
In the 70s many manufacturers did use marine concrete as a cheaper substitution for lead or iron for additional ballast. It was due to the crazy prices for petroleum products due to embargoes etc. Boat manufacturers had to cut costs wherever possible.
You are taking on a big task so best of luck. The dirty tank at the back was probably the original fuel tank and the cylinder you removed a home designed replacement.
Just came across your TH-cam channel. You make fantastic DIY videos. I have a similar project that I gave up on.... however I'm considering starting it again... csnt seem to be able to bring my self to scrap the boat, even though that is the only sensible opinion. Im taking the winter time to decide its fate. I have a new boat that i enjoy and this needs my attention first and foremost. I'll continue to watch your videos,,, hopefully I'll be inspired. Best regards from Jarle
I bought OE36 also almost year ago and started similar project like you. This keel video was great, just little start afraid to do same as you. Also I have demolished everything out from boat now and I wlll make re-desing and all new. It will be huge job, but I also like this boat model so much. It was funny to look your boat trip from Sweden, because I have similar leaking problem, bot not from keel 😀.
I'm glad if you find some inspiration and courage from my video. OE boats are great and worth the love. My boat was also leaking from the stern gland, not only keel bolts :)
I'm not sure of the epoxy brand if you mean that. I buy it from a local supplier of the industry in 4L cans as well as other composite materials. I mix the resin with "Microsphere" as a thickener. Microsphere feels like very fine powder but is very small diameter hollow glass spheres indeed. They also sold me an additive to reduce run (the keel surface was sloped and resin tends to run down the slope). Any epoxy resin will work there with proper additives. It is important to clean lead from oxide and coat it immediately. As a sealant between already faired keel and hull surfaces I used Sikaflex 292i.
I wonder how YT ended up recommending videos like this? Is it because my boat, Elli, is in your channels background picture? The picture must have been taken in Byxholmen 25.6.2020. Anyway, good stuff. I will subscribe and buy a boat that doesn't have a bolt on keel.
what was the torque spec you used? just curious because the info online can vary alot. the bolt seems to be M20, am i right? im guessing you torque them around 350 Nm (unlubricated spec)
I have only torqued the bolts by "hand feeling" and not too much torque. I've yet to install 2 bolts but the weather prevents doing it. Once all bolts are in I will torque to spec. The bolts are M20 and I will look up for the torque specs
@@sailingsmalldreamingbig9022 there are 3 grades of SS (that i know of, maybe there are more), but your values should not be higher than 300 to 350 Nm. my keel bolts are 1 inch and i had to choose softer steel to maintain the torque spec "acceptable"....because a torque wrench higher than 350 Nm (max torque) starts to be a little expensive, specially for something you do once every 2 years.
Looks like your not the first person to remove that keel. Do you think that the boat suffered a hard grounding, and that bent the keel bolts? Did the previous owner inform you about the leak?
The previous owner didn't know much of the history of the boat. I don't think that the boat has been grounded hard. No traces of that. The keel bolts were no bent but installed at different angles
@@sailingsmalldreamingbig9022 Maybe when the yard made the boat, they lowered the boat onto the keel and then drilled the bolt holes, and drilled the holes at opposing angles for a more secure hold? Maybe removing the bolts first before seperating the keel to prevent binding is the way to do it? A lot of keel bolts are molded into the lead and are not removable, so dropping the keel straight down makes sense. Having lower nuts and angled studs could be an indicator as to how to make the separation. I am learning a lot from your videos. Thanks for making them. Good keel repair videos are hard to find.
@@sailingeden9866 I'm glad you found something useful in my videos. I am certain that the hull was lowered onto the keel and then the holes were drilled through the hull and keel. But I do not think they were drilled at different angles for safety reason. It just happened so. Most of these OE36 sailboats were built by owners themselves and some parts build quality is pretty mediocre. Yes, pulling up the keel bolts first would have made separation much easier.
Congrats, Shipman is a very nice boat. I own one, too! About the holes: First I will fill the cavities with closed-cell foam that will not absorb moisture (just in case). Then I will plug the holes with epoxy filler (1.5..2cms thick), like it was done before. And probably lay a layer or two of classfiber cloth on top of the plugs to secure things
@@sailingsmalldreamingbig9022 I yes i noticed that you have a shipman to. Do you have the same type of cavities om THE shipman to? It looks like holes in the shipman is welded. I also have leaking keel bolts on the shipman. The seal between keel and haul is old.
@@tomassonnerup6006 My Shipman 28 has cat iron keel (OE36 has lead). Bolt holes in cast iron keels are usually threaded into the keel itself. There are no nuts nor such cavities for nuts in the keel (usually). On my Shipman I could easily get the bolts out to check them. The bolts extended enough into the bilge and allowed me to use double nuts to turn the bolts out.
Congrats on your Herculean effort refitting this boat. She has a lot of heart to sail in that condition when you bought her. Best of luck!
Thanks for your comment! The effort of refitting is really big but hopefully worth it
Love your enthusiasm and energy. Despite everything you have uncovered the boat looks like she has good bones.
A human being have to be at somewere at anytime, it is good to do some usesull things when you there somewere, like saving old OE 36. Man is satisfied when he can do challenging things, especially by hand, and see the result, I did it. Now the boat feels more like a trusted friend, I took care of her, she takes care of me on the sea. Thanks for the video.
That's a good point - take care of your boat and she will look after you.
You did a great job. I can appreciate how difficult a job that was. But now it’s better than new. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks! One day she will be better than new
Hi, you did a greate job. I like to watch your refit video. I found you yesterday while surfing in youtube. Just give your channel an abo. Now I have to check all the videos from the last 2 years. Greatings Mikel
Thank you for watching!
It must take a lot of faith--and a lot of experience--to tackle a project like this, never knowing what you're going to uncover. Your English, by the way, is a pleasure to listen to.
Thanks William! I sometimes feel ashamed for my English :) And I lack experience but I do have faith I learn by doing :)
@@sailingsmalldreamingbig9022 Believe me, there's nothing wrong with your English. It speaks well for the part of the world you come from. When I started listening to you I figured you were Scandinavian--maybe Swedish or Danish--and was a little surprised to hear that you're....I guess we Americans would call you "Eastern European." Keep up the good work!--and thanks for sharing all your technical know-how.. I hope your new boat doesn't give you too much trouble..
You have to love that Estonian winter!!! Just my opinion, but I would remove that old hidden tank and repurpose the space for a bigger, new fuel cell or maybe gain the space for a nice Lithium house battery bank.
Thanks for the advice, this is exactly what I was going to do
congratulations to your very very good videos. I am already waiting for the next one to see your renovated mashine room and the place behind (among other things). Thanks a lot.
Thank you very much! The progress is slow but steady :)
Very difficult job, well done. The deeper you dig 🙄👍
In the 70s many manufacturers did use marine concrete as a cheaper substitution for lead or iron for additional ballast. It was due to the crazy prices for petroleum products due to embargoes etc. Boat manufacturers had to cut costs wherever possible.
Thank you this is very usefull for me and my girlfriend! We bought a oe36 in August!
Congratulations! You've bought a beautiful boat :)
You are taking on a big task so best of luck. The dirty tank at the back was probably the original fuel tank and the cylinder you removed a home designed replacement.
Thank you! You maybe right about the tank
Just came across your TH-cam channel. You make fantastic DIY videos. I have a similar project that I gave up on.... however I'm considering starting it again... csnt seem to be able to bring my self to scrap the boat, even though that is the only sensible opinion. Im taking the winter time to decide its fate. I have a new boat that i enjoy and this needs my attention first and foremost. I'll continue to watch your videos,,, hopefully I'll be inspired. Best regards from Jarle
I'm glad you found something in my videos. Don't give up ;) Although I know that feeling when you want to throw the tools overboard and run away :D
This was quite a challenge. Very impressive job! Better than new.
Thank you!
I bought OE36 also almost year ago and started similar project like you. This keel video was great, just little start afraid to do same as you. Also I have demolished everything out from boat now and I wlll make re-desing and all new. It will be huge job, but I also like this boat model so much. It was funny to look your boat trip from Sweden, because I have similar leaking problem, bot not from keel 😀.
I'm glad if you find some inspiration and courage from my video. OE boats are great and worth the love. My boat was also leaking from the stern gland, not only keel bolts :)
you are doing a proper job keep up the good work. cheers Les
Excellent work sir😊
Thanks!
great job....wish u the best on overhaul of boat.......looks like winner......
Thank you! I do my best
Your resilience is super impressive... Great video..
Thanks!
Nice new channel. Gool luck with boat . ill be watching.
Thanks!
Nice job, and Really interesting. Thanks for the videos.
Thank you for watching!
Holy shit its Ivan Drago. Went from boxing to sailing. "If it sinks, it sinks". Awesome.
🤣
Do we see some of the old trim tab control mechanism in the 'tank' located behind the actual fuel tank?
Good eye! That's what I thought, too. But it turned out to be a P-bracket laminated through the hull to support the back end of the prop shaft.
@@sailingsmalldreamingbig9022 Keep posting, regards.
Thamks for video.
Great job done.
What epoxy mix you use for filler between keel and body?
I'm not sure of the epoxy brand if you mean that. I buy it from a local supplier of the industry in 4L cans as well as other composite materials. I mix the resin with "Microsphere" as a thickener. Microsphere feels like very fine powder but is very small diameter hollow glass spheres indeed. They also sold me an additive to reduce run (the keel surface was sloped and resin tends to run down the slope). Any epoxy resin will work there with proper additives. It is important to clean lead from oxide and coat it immediately. As a sealant between already faired keel and hull surfaces I used Sikaflex 292i.
@@sailingsmalldreamingbig9022 Thanks for clearly explenation.
HAPPY NEW YEAR 2022!!!!
@@janisspalvins677 Happy New Year, fair winds!
Did you consider filling the bolt holes completely with thickened epoxy and then re-drilling the holes?
I considered it but it would have been impossible to re-drill the holes to match the angles and locations of the holes in the keel.
I wonder how YT ended up recommending videos like this? Is it because my boat, Elli, is in your channels background picture? The picture must have been taken in Byxholmen 25.6.2020.
Anyway, good stuff. I will subscribe and buy a boat that doesn't have a bolt on keel.
Hei Samu! Nice to meet you here! I think we were in sauna together that evening in Byxholmen? You sailed there single-handed as I remember
what was the torque spec you used? just curious because the info online can vary alot. the bolt seems to be M20, am i right? im guessing you torque them around 350 Nm (unlubricated spec)
I have only torqued the bolts by "hand feeling" and not too much torque. I've yet to install 2 bolts but the weather prevents doing it. Once all bolts are in I will torque to spec. The bolts are M20 and I will look up for the torque specs
@@sailingsmalldreamingbig9022 there are 3 grades of SS (that i know of, maybe there are more), but your values should not be higher than 300 to 350 Nm. my keel bolts are 1 inch and i had to choose softer steel to maintain the torque spec "acceptable"....because a torque wrench higher than 350 Nm (max torque) starts to be a little expensive, specially for something you do once every 2 years.
Fine video
Thanks!
Looks like your not the first person to remove that keel. Do you think that the boat suffered a hard grounding, and that bent the keel bolts? Did the previous owner inform you about the leak?
The previous owner didn't know much of the history of the boat. I don't think that the boat has been grounded hard. No traces of that. The keel bolts were no bent but installed at different angles
@@sailingsmalldreamingbig9022 Maybe when the yard made the boat, they lowered the boat onto the keel and then drilled the bolt holes, and drilled the holes at opposing angles for a more secure hold? Maybe removing the bolts first before seperating the keel to prevent binding is the way to do it? A lot of keel bolts are molded into the lead and are not removable, so dropping the keel straight down makes sense. Having lower nuts and angled studs could be an indicator as to how to make the separation. I am learning a lot from your videos. Thanks for making them. Good keel repair videos are hard to find.
@@sailingeden9866 I'm glad you found something useful in my videos. I am certain that the hull was lowered onto the keel and then the holes were drilled through the hull and keel. But I do not think they were drilled at different angles for safety reason. It just happened so. Most of these OE36 sailboats were built by owners themselves and some parts build quality is pretty mediocre. Yes, pulling up the keel bolts first would have made separation much easier.
I have a shipman28 and it has the same keelbolt construction. How do you fill the holes in the keel? Regards Tomas
Congrats, Shipman is a very nice boat. I own one, too! About the holes: First I will fill the cavities with closed-cell foam that will not absorb moisture (just in case). Then I will plug the holes with epoxy filler (1.5..2cms thick), like it was done before. And probably lay a layer or two of classfiber cloth on top of the plugs to secure things
@@sailingsmalldreamingbig9022 I yes i noticed that you have a shipman to. Do you have the same type of cavities om THE shipman to? It looks like holes in the shipman is welded. I also have leaking keel bolts on the shipman. The seal between keel and haul is old.
@@tomassonnerup6006 My Shipman 28 has cat iron keel (OE36 has lead). Bolt holes in cast iron keels are usually threaded into the keel itself. There are no nuts nor such cavities for nuts in the keel (usually). On my Shipman I could easily get the bolts out to check them. The bolts extended enough into the bilge and allowed me to use double nuts to turn the bolts out.
why not use lead to even out the keel surface
I thought about this but found the resin to be easier method
what country is this
Estonia :)
Very interesting. So maybe these old Swedish boats are not that wonderful after all, they look at bit sloppily put together.
There are different examples for sure. It was common to 1970-s that boats were sold half complete and owners finished interior works.
Hyvä hyvä!! 👍🙂
bend the bolts with a hammer
engine beds
Thanks! English is not my native language and I often struggle to find correct words and terms.
big spuare washers better