Thank you Mel , as a returning modeler of 15 years absence," things " have changed somewhat.. my last big piece, was a 42 ft 1 35 scale replica of Suzuka f1 track in Japan, 3 lane M D F . It was all chicken wire and papier mache ' a multitude of christmas lights and several hundred trees.. it worked very well and gave years of entertainment to many ... in looking for new inspiration , i came across your wonderful font of all things terrain, i wanted to say thank you very much indeed. having had several smallish strokes in recent years, i thought my" creative" days had become just a memory.. But due to your good self and a couple of you tubers, and a" mountain of foamboard ". a cherished skill has been rekindled... Thank you once again.. Scott Somerset
Tightly balled-up bits of aluminum foil (or "aluminium" foil, for my Brit friends) also make great texture presses for stone walls. Great channel, btw. Subbed.
I just made a tunnel porthole and used your technique. However, I used a thinned spackling paste and a sponge to put texture on the blocks of the porthole.
thank you. I have been watching every video, just thought I'd ask as a quicker way to put something down to start with. I am looking to start my own landscape board
Just thought i would add to this a little. When i was at uni studying model making you can actually take casts of this foam. Have to coat it in paint to seal it off first but once you have done than you make a few of these really quickly made out of resin and what ever not..... Obversely only if you have a few to make. You cam make them all look different with shrubs and grass and what not.
Wouldn't the bottom row of rocks need to be beveled as well? Or would one assume they are not laying on the ground but a bit suck into the ground? Also, the Pen vs. Pencil. Speaking of pens, one assume a ball point or medium point would be best for the inscribing? Figure a fine point tip pen would tear or not give the desired effect.
GrimmJD Yeah mate, the bottom wasn't bevelled as it would be under the base texturing onto on the board mounting. I tend to use ball points, anything finer and you start to have problems mate.
Yet another great video, very useful, just one question why dont to use the rock on the wall first before your inscribe the brick effect with the pencil so you dont have to re go over it with the pen?
Hi Mel ! I try to make a wall with eps polystyrene, but it's difficult to engrave with a pen without loosing balls ... It's possible to use EPS or only using XPS for building walls ?
Thanks for another great video Mel. What if you did the texturing with the rock before you penciled the stone pattern? Would that save your the time of going back over with the pen?
It's important to note that the foam in the UK is quite a bit different than the foam in the US. It won't hold nearly as well as what Mel's doing here.
No need to do the pencil lines if you're going to finish off with the pen after texturing. Looks the same but takes 1/2 the time. Great vid. thanks for sharing :-)
Richard Allsebrook There's quite a bit of difference between the lines made by the pencil and the pen, it's about 1.5mm in this case. Thanks and no worries matey :-)
Hey Mel, love your videos, so helpful and well done. Quick question, do you make the exact same pattern on the other side of the wall or do you make a different one?
I think I will. I might post a video of the results. :) I want to see if my hedgerows turn out alright so I'm going to do a small section first as a test.
Great job, once again. :) However, just curious, as I've seen this technique used by many, but have you ever thought of using a soldering iron for the engraving? I've not done that, and am curious if it might work. ? My thought would be if you used it quickly for the jointing, so as to not cause melting splotches, and as some irons are almost wedge like, you might be able to cut down on the need to go back and spruce up the lines with the pen after the pencil. HHhmm.... Just a thought. Something I might give a go. If it doesn't work, then I guess I'll have a blaster ruined wall piece to play with. :) Later my friend! This is Sammy - Out. :)
ishyab011 You can certainly use a soldiering iron (hot foam factory sell one as a foam engraver). The main issue is that the lines are quite broad with sharp edges, so it wouldn't suit brick work etc but symbols look good engraved mate. Hope that helps!
TheTerrainTutor Thanks for the info boss. You know, I didn't figure to check if they made such a foam engraver. I'm going to have to add that to my list of things to check out, and if possible pick up and add to the art heap. :) Appreciate the info and tips as always. Be seeing seeing you online!
If I see a new house or building going up, I ask the contractors if I can have the scrap bits of foam, since they waste a fair bit when doing insulation, 90% they have no problem, even happy to take it off their hands. Save's me $10-15 Canadian when I don't have to buy a full sheet.
Thank you Mel , as a returning modeler of 15 years absence," things " have changed somewhat.. my last big piece, was a 42 ft 1 35 scale replica of Suzuka f1 track in Japan, 3 lane M D F . It was all chicken wire and papier mache ' a multitude of christmas lights and several hundred trees.. it worked very well and gave years of entertainment to many ... in looking for new inspiration , i came across your wonderful font of all things terrain, i wanted to say thank you very much indeed. having had several smallish strokes in recent years, i thought my" creative" days had become just a memory.. But due to your good self and a couple of you tubers, and a" mountain of foamboard ". a cherished skill has been rekindled... Thank you once again.. Scott Somerset
Tightly balled-up bits of aluminum foil (or "aluminium" foil, for my Brit friends) also make great texture presses for stone walls. Great channel, btw. Subbed.
A great set of skills passed down in this tutorial Mel. You could use that wall section in a later tutorial for marking latex and silicone molds.
James Evans Hoping to get into mold making this year, so much to learn though
Well done Mel for sharing that great technique.
Helghast73 No worries matey
I just made a tunnel porthole and used your technique. However, I used a thinned spackling paste and a sponge to put texture on the blocks of the porthole.
Fantastic!! Keep these awesome videos coming! You have a wonderful talent.
+Nathaniel Hickman I'll keep soldiering on buddy!
Fantastic video! Informative techniques! Helped me a great deal! Thanks for all your hard work!
thank you. I have been watching every video, just thought I'd ask as a quicker way to put something down to start with. I am looking to start my own landscape board
+Jonathon Brown no worries
Just thought i would add to this a little. When i was at uni studying model making you can actually take casts of this foam. Have to coat it in paint to seal it off first but once you have done than you make a few of these really quickly made out of resin and what ever not..... Obversely only if you have a few to make. You cam make them all look different with shrubs and grass and what not.
Cheers buddy, mold making and casting is a whole different adventure ;-)
Yeah tell me about it!!! fun though
A pleasure to watch your work... very instructive
+Rob McCord Glad you liked it mate
Very good techniques involved. But a bit out of scale for 6mm terrain I think. Do you have any ideas for walls at this scale?
Wouldn't the bottom row of rocks need to be beveled as well? Or would one assume they are not laying on the ground but a bit suck into the ground?
Also, the Pen vs. Pencil. Speaking of pens, one assume a ball point or medium point would be best for the inscribing? Figure a fine point tip pen would tear or not give the desired effect.
GrimmJD Yeah mate, the bottom wasn't bevelled as it would be under the base texturing onto on the board mounting. I tend to use ball points, anything finer and you start to have problems mate.
Yet another great video, very useful, just one question why dont to use the rock on the wall first before your inscribe the brick effect with the pencil so you dont have to re go over it with the pen?
rock compresses surface, if not engraved first, engraving rips top texture mate
Thank you, this helped loads, but I don't know how to do home-made hills
SkullCrusher No worries mate, check my how to make hills playlist, that should help you out ;-)
Hi Mel
Is there any reason why you couldn't texture your wall before you scribe in the stonework on the wall. love your hints and tips.
+Gerald Britton As long as the engraving isn't too deep, it should be fine mate
Cracking tutorial. I've been thinking of trying something like this for use with by big box of Dust Tactics stuff.
Euan Smith Cheers matey and cheers matey :-D
Great one Mel!
familyofgamers777 cheers buddy
Hi Mel ! I try to make a wall with eps polystyrene, but it's difficult to engrave with a pen without loosing balls ... It's possible to use EPS or only using XPS for building walls ?
thanks for simplifying the process sir!!!
Thanks for another great video Mel. What if you did the texturing with the rock before you penciled the stone pattern? Would that save your the time of going back over with the pen?
Jerry Jackson Not sure mate but I have a vague memory of doing it and deciding this was a better way for some reason lol.
It's important to note that the foam in the UK is quite a bit different than the foam in the US. It won't hold nearly as well as what Mel's doing here.
Great video, Thanks a bunch. I was just wondering where you get your polysterene from?
Me too. Where's the cheapest place to buy from?
Home Depot. 15 bucks for 4×8 sheet. (Feet)
Great tutorial Mel
***** Thanks mate
No need to do the pencil lines if you're going to finish off with the pen after texturing. Looks the same but takes 1/2 the time. Great vid. thanks for sharing :-)
Richard Allsebrook There's quite a bit of difference between the lines made by the pencil and the pen, it's about 1.5mm in this case. Thanks and no worries matey :-)
Wouldn't it be better to do the textures before marking times?
you can rip the textured surface that way so it's better to premark mate
Looks great mate, been looking forward to this one. Be ideal for Normandy terrain for Bolt Action :)
David Martin Cheer mate, hope it lived up to your expectations ;-)
Hey Mel, love your videos, so helpful and well done. Quick question, do you make the exact same pattern on the other side of the wall or do you make a different one?
+Matthew Vitari I usually just make a different one mate, no ones ever noticed ;-)
could you do sand bags the same was as these walls??
+Jonathon Brown you could but they're better out of modelling putty mate, search my vids for sandbacks ;-)
Do you seal your polystyrene with anything?
For small pieces, just a bit of pva in the acrylic basecoat mate
I have these on my to do list after I finish my next minefield for Bolt Action and some hedgerows. I may move them up since they look quick and easy.
SmittyM14 Mix it mate, hedgerows and walls, they'll look great ;-)
I think I will. I might post a video of the results. :) I want to see if my hedgerows turn out alright so I'm going to do a small section first as a test.
Great job, once again. :) However, just curious, as I've seen this technique used by many, but have you ever thought of using a soldering iron for the engraving? I've not done that, and am curious if it might work. ? My thought would be if you used it quickly for the jointing, so as to not cause melting splotches, and as some irons are almost wedge like, you might be able to cut down on the need to go back and spruce up the lines with the pen after the pencil. HHhmm.... Just a thought. Something I might give a go. If it doesn't work, then I guess I'll have a blaster ruined wall piece to play with. :) Later my friend! This is Sammy - Out. :)
ishyab011 You can certainly use a soldiering iron (hot foam factory sell one as a foam engraver). The main issue is that the lines are quite broad with sharp edges, so it wouldn't suit brick work etc but symbols look good engraved mate. Hope that helps!
TheTerrainTutor
Thanks for the info boss. You know, I didn't figure to check if they made such a foam engraver. I'm going to have to add that to my list of things to check out, and if possible pick up and add to the art heap. :) Appreciate the info and tips as always. Be seeing seeing you online!
game changing vid ur a legend fella :)
Thank you so much!
+Nathaniel Hickman It's my pleasure mate
Very useful and inspiring, thanks! :D
Wahdi1967 Glad it helped mate
Where do you get the 'styrene from?
Simon Gray Wickes - it's called ecoboard
awesome!
great vid and tutorial, nice tips and tricks, thx :)
unkhter Thanks buddy
Is all this foam expensive? Im in usa
No mate, it's pretty cheap
If I see a new house or building going up, I ask the contractors if I can have the scrap bits of foam, since they waste a fair bit when doing insulation, 90% they have no problem, even happy to take it off their hands. Save's me $10-15 Canadian when I don't have to buy a full sheet.
I like Disney Characters from Frozen so my idea is to create a frozen terrain table for those types of characters.🏰🤺👩🦳👩⚕️
yeah thanks.
+tophz javier glad you liked it mate
Pardon, but...what's "whatchacallit pencil"?
👍👍👍
now I find that I say "crack on" while I am working.
This is the way ....
Oh so loveley :)
SaBracaSam Not bad a quickie hey :-)
ya?
lol lol ... nobody wants to be who gives the next like to 665 ... lol....