The steel trawler hull work is finally finished!
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.พ. 2025
- In this video I finally finish repairing the hull of the steel trawler and give a complete coat of epoxy primer onto it. I also remove the timber rubber strips from the side of the boat so I can paint underneath them and either repair or replace them.
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No intention of getting a boat. I like em though so stumbled on Stu and his project somehow. Like many others I am addicted. The sheer effort involved with dry humour is incredible. Thanks mate! I am looking forward to the next one. The boat is slowly taking shape.
Thanks mate. I appreciate you taking the time to comment. It's really great to hear people are enjoying the vids. :)
@@DangarMarine
You should get the series up on Amazon Prime video?
I don't have a mechanical bone in my body - yet find myself addicted to your vids. I think it's the easy going way you come across problems and instead of being phased, you search for answers ... then plough on. I can almost feel your fatigue at various points and yet nothing stops you completing a job. Perhaps that's why I enjoy the vids - because explaining what you are doing with engines etc is all Greek to me. Anyone seeing this would surely employ you at the drop of a hat - well done!
Many congratulations Stu. Finishing the hull is a huge milestone. You should be really proud of yourself.
We've all been cheering you on, and you've done it like a champ.
Now it's engine and electrics and a bit of fitting out and you're almost done. Stick with it.
Thanks Paul. I've got a bit more cleaning and painting to do first but I'm really looking forward to getting started on the electrics.
Greetings from Idaho USA. I don't build boats or plan to anytime soon but I thoroughly enjoy these videos. It's fun to see a trawler literally about to sink to the bottom being transformed into a seaworthy craft. These videos showing the progression should pay some TH-cam cash over time to allow you to kick up your heels on this boat floating the tranquil seas with many a cold beer. Sincerely though many folks for years to come will be helped by your detailed videos. Best, Tom
Thanks Tom, I can't wait until that day! :)
Please be carful my friend. When your tired or exhausted one can get hurt bad.
It’s all looking great! You are a hard worker.
Yes, I know what you are saying. Knowing when to pull the pin and take a rest is an important skill to have.
John Stephens he's not a pussy like most from the States.
Plus he drink real beer, unlike you wankers. Lol.
Sir Dick Little your a wanka for saying that shit
Go dry exhaust, all the commercial fishing boats I ever worked on were dry exhaust, less to go wrong. Keep thinking of how your lady will look sunbathing on the fresh clean deck, while you are scrubbing off the muck and dressing your wounds. Keep up the good work and keep your tremendously good attitude about all the hard work.
Thanks! This is one of the best series I've seen on YT.
I've never really liked boats, but your dry humour & matter-of-fact manner are totally awesome & watchable.
:)
Thanks mate! :)
Your name should be limpet marine , because you do stick at it ! Nothing I’ve yet watched could be described as easy pleasant work ...lot easier to watch than do .Thanks
Hopefully the jobs will be getting more fun to do (and watch!) now the hull work is finished. :)
What you do on your own, without help, is amazing!
Thanks mate. It makes me jealous seeing the team Doug has some days on SV Seeker! :)
Your hard work on this boat will be worth it when finished.
Good things come to those who grind it out!
Hi Stu, our family has an old timber trawler on Sydney harbour, enjoying your videos. We recently replaced our exhaust, kept it dry, the old one was rusting out. Went from a straight pipe to one with a muffler with a few baffles. Slowed throttle response (not a problem on a trawler) but helped stabilise changes of load, and smoother idle with some back pressure. All fabricated out of 316 stainless. The hardwood, marine ply chimney, is lined with fibre cement sheet and a special dense fibreglass insulation, for domestic home chimneys. we were also recommended to ceramic coat the manifold, which we may do next time it's off. Rust protection and sends heat out exhaust rather than into engine bay. Running a 6LW Gardner, btw. Cheers
Hey Josh, yes, more and more I'm siding with going back to a dry exhaust. All I need to do now is find out what muffler I can use without adding too much backpressure for the two stroke to handle.
I really appreciate all the little things you’re addressing, things that people when they’re exhausted might just think “eh, I’m sure it’s fine.” I also appreciate the different techniques you’re testing, not just editing to show “perfect” work but acknowledging different methods and validating if the conventional wisdom is correct. That square bit in the transom will be interesting to monitor over time. Thanks for all the hard work.
Thanks mate. It will be interesting to see how that patch fairs. I think it all comes down to how much stress is placed on it (I'm feeling not much), but a large patch at the bow would certainly need to be done right.
Great video. After seeing all your work I am going to buy a condo near the water and forget the boat.
Don't blame you!
lol
Stu, I'm not a boat type person, but I find myself watching more and more.
As for the exhaust change, straight up, that's the way to go. Make two billet ally doughnuts bigger than the exhaust pipe needed, drill the deck just bigger than the exhaust. Using bolts through the deck and the doughnuts, make a sandwich using exhaust cement between each side and the deck and place a sleeve that fits snuggly on the hole and tighten the doughnut bolts. Then you can run the exhaust pipe through the sleeve and fix it with grubscrews through the sleeve at intervals up the sleeve on three sides and the sleeve should stay cool to the touch and if you make the sleeve long enough there will be no leaks.
Finish it with very high temperature spray paint and the jobs a good'un.
Thanks for sharing, really enjoying the vids.
Sounds like a good design!
I can't wait to see this boat back on the water in action. After putting a lot of hard work into a boat and then finally getting to see it done and getting to use it is satisfying.
Thanks Chris, I can't wait either!
This is not any sort of project I would ever do myself, but I really like watching you do it, and I am picking up a lot of fabrication and repair tips. Thanks much!
It’s so great watching this project come along in almost real time. Who ever buys this boat can be sure that it’s in top condition after all this work. Great job!!
great to see the progress. tire weights from the tire store are dense, usually cheap, easy to move.
For sure, the local tyre shop is always happy to give us their weights too.
gonna be a great feeling floating around with the peace of mind u did it right. shes looking good.
Everytime I look at a bit that I could maybe ignore I think how I'm going to feel when the first storm kicks up. That's usually motivates me to do it right. :)
Hey Stu, it's really starting to take shape now, have,to,say, I am impressed how quickly,you seem to have got it this far, looking forward to seeing the launch
I’m in Middle school, teaching up hill. Real education is a apprenticeship with you. You sir are a God.❤️🦄😀😁👊
It is coming on. You are getting there.
Family has a 1957 Searls pilot house ketch up in Brisbane. One of the long list of great ideas this old boat has is a gunnel mounted grease gun that has a copper line that runs to the middle of the prop shaft stuffing box. When you pull up after a days cruising, a couple of pumps ensures the stuffing box is sealed and also lubricated for the next trip. This also stops you having to overtighten the box to slow or stop leaks. Grease gun head is permanently mounted and simply needs to be unscrewed to be refilled. Simple but brilliant.Hope this can be of help.CheersGlenn
Hey Glenn. The stuffing box on this boat doesn't have a grease fitting at all but I'm definitely going to install one.
Stu TV. Best channel on TH-cam.
Thanks mate. :)
Wow, that looks really great. This is going to be a beautiful boat.
Thanks mate.
Hi Stu,
Your looking tired mate, just as well acetone keeps ya awake and alive!!
The boats looking good, its amazing how a bit of paint can make a huge difference.
Flexible steel bellows might be the way ahead for the dry exhaust, bit of flexibility for vibration and then solid lagged exhaust pipework.
Put your feet up, its the holiday weekend and have several home measures of Rum.
You’ve done well.
Cheers
Malc
Congratulations man. It's a real milestone in the rebuild!
What a ton of work !! It'll be great when it's done. Can hardly wait to see the finished product.
She’s looking good. Going to be a very nice boat. I think you will be happy with her
That’s a ton of time and effort Stu but effort well spent. The hull looks great! Thanks for the awesome videos
Great job
I can't believe what a huge amount of work you have put into this project already. Unreal & it looks great.
I never thought the whole hull would be done this fast. It looked too rough before you started! Wow
I've been lucky to be working on this five days a week at the moment. I can't think how long it would have taken trying to snatch a few hours each weekend in between other family duties.
Dry exhaust is the way to go a nice semi truck stack type but in 6 or 8 inch diameter polished stainless pipe coming up behind the wheelhouse would look shmick and sound sick 💪 lookn good Stu
Stu, you are working your ass off mate. Its coming up great so its not in vain champ.
Look forward to your videos every week! This series is awesome!
Looks good with fresh paint! You're doing awesome! When I was in the Coast Guard our 44 foot motor life boats had 600 lbs of lead ballast. I think they were 50 lb blocks and had steel handle bolted to the so would could get them out of the bilge. They also mounted to the frames so they didn't leave their home in the heavy seas we frequently experienced. They all sat under the mess deck, about midships of the boat.
you Give more Meaning to the Saying "A lot of blood sweat and Tears have gone into this" Stay Safe Buddy, Great work.
Hi Stu Up here in northern nsw the prawn trawlers used a cement or other fibre pipe vertically through the deck with the exhaust up the centre , sort of made a large muffler , my brothers and others ran very quietly with this sort of arrangement could find out more detail if your interested.
Noise is my only real concern with dry exhaust so I'd love to hear about ways to have a dry exhaust that is also quiet.
Just spoke to my brother, he used 2nd hand 10inch stainless chimney tube we bought from the local sugar mill pretty cheap, attached it to the deck using angle iron and large circle clamps, he ran a 4inch (100mm) truck muffler and exhaust tube from the GM diesel up through the tube. The whole thing went a couple of feet above the coach house roof with a cap over the 10 inch tube and the exhaust stack as high as you want above the cap, others have used sewer pipe etc. It substantially reduced engine noise.
Really starting to take shape now. Great work. Congrats Stu.
on the exhaust, run 3 inch pipe from manifold, wrap with ceramic cloth for protection so far up, then use double wall insulated 8 inch stove pipe thru deck up the corner of wheel house and then put a tractor flap on the end to keep water out. Keep up the video's just wish there were more!
This boat was converted from dry to wet and the old dry exhaust went pretty much the way you are suggesting.
@@DangarMarine dont put a tractor flap on the exhaust stu. it will drive you nuts..
I love the amount of love you’re putting into the boat . 👍
Looking great mate.
You've got every reason to be proud of the work done thus far; out-ferking-standing!!!
I think just watching you do all of this metal work has improved my welding skills! It was lots of work and a great lesson to all of us out here. She’s looking great Stu!
Looking better and better!
Fantastic work on the boat,looking forward to the next episode 😎👍👍👍
each job you complete is one less , always great videos and i second the comment on the safety gear cant wait for the next installment .
Great video Stu. So thorough and so meticulous. She is going to be perfect by the time you are finished.
'I'm pretty sure I've done all the pad welding....um...aarrrhhh, no I forgot I've got something else', love it!!
There's always another bit.... ;)
You sir are a working machine! Always thinking ahead skilled and smart. Dry exhaust is a good idea giving you the engine room space. Much respect, be safe! 👍
I know nothing about boats but been following you on this one, great videos and very very interesting, keep up the great work and vids, will be an awesome boat when she's finished with a very proud owner!
Thanks mate, I'm looking forward to taking it out for the first time!
The chipping hammer brought back memories from when I was a Naval Cadet. I spent a whole day one summer chipping and painting one of Her Majesty's Australian Ships (can't remember if it was Manoora or Success) and some dufus got French grey all over my coveralls!
I'm sure there are many navy sailors very familiar with those particular hammers. :)
Thoroughly enjoying the steel trawler videos...Well done...I also thought running the exhaust pipe straight up might be a good solution....Thanks for posting... Cheers from Ottawa Canada...
My 2 cents is to go with a vertical dry exhaust. It gets the fumes away from the boat and it frees up space down below where space is at a premium.
Coming along nicely. It's going to be one sweet boat when she's all finished. Looking forward to the diesel tear down 👍👍
Thanks mate. Unfortunately I don't think I'll be doing a full teardown on the engine, I just don't have the time and money to pull the head off and get it machined etc. It will be a major service though which will get me through for a couple of years at least.
Dangar Marine absolutely understand the budget... I’m sure the project cost you a decent amount already. Either way I’m still looking forward to the service of the diesel
With your dry exhaust do what they do in big ships. Just place a couple of bellows or expansion joints, to allow for thermal expansion.With the bellows one end will be fixed or secured the other end allowed to expand into which is fitted your vertical run.
The larger bellows we used used to expand up to 300 plus mm. Smaller ones will probably give you 25 - 30 mm.
Yep, would definitely need the expansion joints in the system for heat and for engine vibration.
I suggest lead ingots for ballast set in epoxy or polyurethane to keep them isolated from the hull, a cheap alternative is a couple of sandbags made from truck inner tubes, just cut lengths vulcanise one end fill vulcanise the other end. they wont move around and wont hold water under them if you set them with polyurethane (sikaflex). For the exhaust if you decide to go dry get a truck stack as has been suggested above, ceramic coat the inner for rust prevention and to minimise heat transfer and either wrap in between or not depending on location. love your channel keep up the great work. just finished reading some of the other comments and thought it prudent to mention that dissimilar metals in a saltwater environment are a killer of hulls so while tungsten shot and lead shot would both work if any get loose they will start making a fresh hole for you. might I also suggest for the same reason that you design your electrical system above ground do not use hull for grounding.
Setting the metal in epoxy is a great idea. Yes, very much planning to avoid using the hull for a ground, but I believe some devices do need an earth so I'll have to do my homework there.
@@DangarMarine some antennae need a ground plane but that shouldn't cause too much problem everything else can run off local bus bars connected to battery by cable fairly easy to locate earth bus bars once you know where everything is going. Recomend spending the extra couple of bucks and use tinned copper wire for added corrosion protection.Love your work.
I wish these were longer. I can’t wait until this gets done!
Great series. Best of luck with the challenges ahead.
Been following your rebuild since first video on the steel hulled repairs always look forward to your notifications and always amazed how easy you make these difficult repairs that you seem to resolve with ease regards from a land lubber pom in the uk.😊
Glad to see this edition. Always waiting for more...
This is a great series.
You are looking really good, keep it up. Fine job.
Thanks Steve. :)
Lovely job so far.
Have you considered using a vertical stack coming from the engine up next to the pilot house for the dry exhaust. Design similar to a large boat application with the insulated headers fabricated towards vertical. Also adding a hinged cover for preventing rain/seas entering stack while not running. Use engine Mfg. guidelines for insulation material for header and recommended length for best performance.
This project is really coming along nicely!
@13:42 Love the post grinding grimey face look. You are a fellow brother in arms!! Great work.
The sounds of a grinder is the music of my people. ;)
Dedication and grit mate - you deserve a good outcome!
Great video Great to see you support Cleave
Looks like some hard yakka mate. Good job and thanks for the videos!!
Greetings from The Netherlands. You are doing a great job on that boat, i do not envy you but looking forward to see it float and have you sail into the sunset :-)
Thanks mate, I'm looking forward to that too!
Stu it hurts just watching and not being able to give you hand as i told you at the begining you got a hell of a challenge with this old steal boat but you are doing a great job protect yourself be wel and keep the good work and the vids up thanks friend
Thanks mate, I appreciate you wanting to be here to help. :)
A mountain of work, but you are getting near the top. Great job !!
I've been watching you for a long time. You do know you're very funny sometimes! Like the personality!
Love your attention to detail, cheers from Chestermere.
Great progress Stu.
Great video again. Getting there slowly.
Getting there mate. Keep going.
Awesome Stu!
Looking good my friend 👍🏾
Someone mentioned tanks as ballast. Pretty good idea. Concrete kills steel boats. Seen it a lot. Plus they are adjustable. Need more ballast ? Take on more water or fuel. A fresh water shower is pretty nice . As far as dry exhaust goes it's pretty straight forward. Just have to figure what kind of wrap system to use . On commercial boats we used more of an exhaust blanket that is reusable and held on by wire. Probably very expensive. I think the type of fiberglass stuff that was on there before would be adequate. There is a plaster of Paris kind of product to paint on it. The only other kind ive seen is like a kind of almost ceramic 2 piece deal that still needs to be wrapped with the fiberglass stuff and then painted. Its not that tough of a product from what ive seen it can kind of deteriorate and fall to the bottom leaving the top of the pipe with almost nothing. Wouldnt worry about any above deck. That water cooled exhaust manifold does lower your exhaust temp significantly. Honestly I had a 50 foot wood hull that had 0 exhaust wrap and it worked fine. I was a bit nervous at first but I had run out of money and had to go catch some crab. 3 years and no problems till the hurricane sunk it. I would inspect your current exhaust pipe and reuse it if the inside is not horrible. You should have plenty of it. Get some flat bar and just weld up a hanger wherever it needs it. Might have to buy a 90 degree elbow or something like that. Extend it as far out the top of cabin as you can and still not look retarded. Keeps exhaust fumes away even while tied to the dock and wind going wrong way. Helps with sound also. You looked very tired . Take a few days and get hammered. Well deserved.
fiberglass blankets are better as far as exhausts go. That plaster of Paris stuff doesn't have very good longevity and is known to chip off over time.
Or talk to 3M about some Nextel cloth. (Only problem is it may work too well and cause the steel to overheat, racing cars have that problem with it).
@@T1M083 The blanket deal is really the best I was just concerned about cost but I guess now I think about it the length of pipe under the deck shouldn't be very long so it probably wouldn't be too much. Maybe
@@robp7652ast yea depends eh on how long the exhaust section turns out to be but your right if its not all that long then price should still be within budget
I honestly appreciate all your advice, but mostly focussed on "get hammered" ;) With regards to the ceramic coating, I've seen there are places you can take components to that do a ceramic coating similar to powder coating. That may be a good option too.
For the ballast I would probably use lead ingots, and bolt them in. With the additional space I would either add extra water/fuel tanks, or storage racks for spare parts, tools, etc. On the sonar through hull fitting try using a good solid extension bar. One end on the fitting, and the other high enough to get a full swing with the sledge hammer. The port-a-power may be best, but you need something solid to brace against. To be honest, I would be tempted to weld up a temporary fixture similar to a bearing puller or for a big pry bar - where I could just pull it out from the outside while I am right there to apply heat as needed... I can't help but feel that all of that time spent climbing inside to bang with a hammer is allowing your metal to cool too much.
For the dry exhaust, there may be codes that you need to follow, but the basic design will probably be similar to the double wall chimney pipe for passing through the roof of a house. That fiberglass heat insulating wrap is expensive. Depending on your budget you may need to get creative inside of the hull... maybe double wall pipe with a welders blanket wrap or something for the areas where you can get away with it.
Always an enjoyable time watching you rebuild the trawler. :)
Thanks mate. I appreciate all your tips. :)
@@DangarMarine I had another thought on the through hull fitting after sleeping on it.
Since the main goal is to change the angle of the hole itself... maybe you could just screw a large (long) bolt through the hole leaving 5-6 inches sticking out for good leverage, and then hammer sideways on the head of the bolt after heating around the hole. It might create a slight shallow spot on the bottom (keel) side, but that should be easy to deal with...
Or, a very long bolt with a heavy weight on the bolt like a slide hammer, or dent puller used for body work. I think there must be half a dozen ways to pull from the outside rather than pound from the inside if you give it some thought
No real welding at all involved in either process, and it is all done from the outside where you can add heat as needed for the best result.
Great job, keep up the good work.
And You're very talented!
Once again, outstanding, even though your cameras are failing you...…. Keep 'em coming!
Looking great Stu! That paint sure worked out good for yah.
Awesome tshirt. Rake is the best.
kudo's on finishing what a Hell of a JOB
I had an idea for containing your ballast. Put it in 100mm PVC plumbing pipe, and use screw-on end caps. You can make them whatever length (and weight) you need, and they will keep the contents dryer than plastic bags. I have not used this idea on a boat, but have for camping.
Good idea Kevin, I like it.
Cant wait to see this boat in its finished state!
You are doing this quick holy smokes awesome job!
It's looking good Stu. Great work mate. If you're on the water this weekend and see a bloke with a beergut fishing on the wall at the boathire @ roo point, come and say G'day. I'll have cold coopers pale. cheers.
I know you don't want ballast shifting around in heavy seas but if you must carry weight it might as well be useful. If you built a fuel tank with internal slosh baffles and we're able to have a transfer pump that could be used to balance out the boat as the fuel is used that might give a nice bit of extra range. You could always build a live well if you could punch a hole above. That might give enough water weight. Cheers from the USA.
Extra fuel is a good idea. I hate the idea of ballast being dead weight.
I'm enjoying your journey, can't wait for each episode . Cheers
great progress, something apart from what some do with their time, etc.! thanks for the video.
Yay the steel trawlers almost ready for lunch
Almost! ;)
Love the “Free Cleaver Greene” T-shirt!
I am really impressed with your progress and quality of work. I must admit though that it has completely dissuaded me from buying a steel hall boat. I am way too old for all that work.
Yes, it certainly does take a lot of energy. I'm already feeling too old for this. ;)
Thanks for the Video 👍looks a long ,hard , grinding, welding, dirty job 🙂
I'll be happy to not do too much grinding again for a little while!