mine died today, i'm pretty sure it's the same problem, i can even spin motors in betaflight but no power when i unplug usb. Damn less than 2 packs on that board how the hell did this happend.
Thanks for this. I figured this would work but didn't have time to test it. I'm pretty sure you can run 3S on that board you have now. It was just the 5v that was limiting it.
@KababFPV Yeah, I think you can definitely do 3S now. However, the Polulu I used only goes up to 11.8v. So probably should use one of the other voltage regulators I listed with a higher voltage range.
Finally got my regulator in from Amazon and soldered it up last night. Flies like a charm! Thanks so much Albert. And also confirming that I was able to hook up the regulator along with my external RX to the same pads. Along with the buzzer it's all a very tight fit but managed to get everything in there.
@@AlbertKimTV I'm not sure if you've done a 'PSA' on the other issue with the CrazyBee F3, F4+. about betaflight getting reset if battery goes below 3.0v. Nick Burns mentioned this issue to me after i thought I fried my mobula6 board. you know a lot of stuff I'm sure you're aware of that issue?
Hi. I have the Opposite problem with a brand new on. ,when i connect the batteries it juts make the first 3 tones and stops. It wont connect to betaflight on mac but other quad does so no poert problem. Usb powers it up leds are on , vtx is working, but no connection with betaflight. Please help.
The firmware on the FC might be corrupted. Boot up the FC in DFU mode by holding down the boot button while plugging into USB. Then reflash the firmware to the board.
Albert Kim I already tried that. If I connect the Mobula to a pc there is absolutely no reaction from the computer. Like nothing plugged in. If this is occurred how can a flash the firmware? Thanks
Not at all. You're tutorials are excellent and unbiased. On that basis just ordered a meteor 75 frame and motors etc from tinywhoop in the US,awaiting transatlantic flight to the UK encouraged by your conversion.
To date, this is my best quadrocopter mini format and the most powerful one I could collect. It remains only to choose the motors that will normally digest 4S in such a small format.
this just happen to my crazybee f3 pro yesterday and many thanks you have share this to everyone. i think the factory must upgrade the regulator for next hardware version ( this is a must hahahaha)
Was wonderful to build my 65mm , do a maiden test . Went well , due to weather waited a few days and charged some packs. Plug in the battery and nothing. Pretty discouraging
This is the same symptoms I've had with the F4 version. I got about a 12 packs through my TrashCan before it failed with these symptoms, and then I got a new replacement F4 Pro board, and same problem again after just 1 flight/battery.
Wow I just through a trashcan flight board out with this same problem and ordered another one. Looks like it's dumpster diving for me in the morning. Thanks Mr Kim
@@kd9432 I got the second board and did this mod and all was good until after a crash into the dirt dislodged a solder pad on the board and it is crap now. I am done spending money on this eachine piece of junk.
Dude thank you so much I was going crazy trying to figure this out and buying a new board. Luckily I kept the old one and this worked like a charm. Keep up the good work. o7
This just happened to me today! Thank you for making this video!!😃😃 such a relief, was freaking out after just dropping some cash on 4 new motors:) thank you so much for this video!!:D
Interesting...I have an F3 and an F4 pro each with different symptoms than this. My F3 seems to have one ESC which is either intermittent or bad. My F4 seems to work fine, but under reduced power...like less power than if I was just using a 1s battery previously....I can fly it but it is no fun at all :-). I replaced my F3 with a new one and all is good now on that whoop...waiting on a new F4 proand I assume it will address the problem on that whoop. Of course I tried initially searching for my issues but very very little content out there highlighting specific problems on these boards.
My crazybee f4 just stopped powering up today ! It’s a pretty new build don’t know if I want go though trouble of doing this fix might just buy a new board. The board had problems powering up sometimes from day one and now nothing.
Albert, What if I've lifted the positive power supply pad? Is there somewhere else I can apply vbat (2S)? (Actually got it to work. Just to the left of the positive in pad is a bit of metal that can be exposed if you scrape the paint away with a plastic spudger.)
I think all the 5volt pads are interconnected so it doesn't make a difference which one you choose. I chose the 5volt led pad because it was convenient.
@@AlbertKimTV Thanks fellas. Sorry if I misheard you Albert. Didn't even think about the led pads I definitely don't need those. How about another positive Vbat location? I dont fully trust that the Welder Glue is a long term fix.
Great video, i have the same issue on two crazybe f4. The issue came up when I flashed the software with betafly. It the saved the configuration before I try the software upgrade but it does not help trying to apply back the old configuration. I get the power red light and FC blue light to come on. What I do not see is the LED for the receiver to come on. Is strange that this happened because it was find until I flashed the software. Now it won't bind.
Albert Kim, Does the 5v ground go to the pad that the battery lead goes to? In the video it looks like it’s not, looks like it’s going to the pad to the right, but I think you are using a different version of the board. I’m using the Crazybee Pro F4 v1 that came with the Trashcan, thanks.
Hello Albert. Thanks a lot. Question: Is it necessary to cut some PCB way or remove any component from FC regulator, so it will not interfere with external one? Thanks again.
anyone have a diagram or diagnose which linear voltage regulator part is actually failing? I've been looking for it but can't seem to identify the faulty component.
Noice. I did the exact same fix with a 5v linear regulator chip that I stole directly from a dead aio full size. It gets extremely hot but it works! Won't work with 1s however, just 2s and above.
Only thing that is weird is my fc wouldn't hook up to betaflight. It just fell out of the sky. tx and rx still talking to one another but no arming and the LED was all white and real bright. I may have been right to order another one and I am apprehensive about the dumpster diving at this point.
Albert, This Exact Same Thing Is Happening To My GEPRC CineStyle, VTX Not Warm Anymore, R-XSR Wont Light Up, When I Plug Into Betaflight Everything Looks Fine, Excatly Like This Vid, Would I Be Able To Use A 5V BEC On The CineStyle FC To Get It Going, And Can You Point Me Where To Buy One, A 5V BEC, They Seem To Be Sold Out All Over, Thank You So Much Albert, Your Vids Are Such Great Help !
@@AlbertKimTV you made a major point on, where in the world could someone locate a replacement IC that fit its specs, ..that could become a migraine inducing rabbit hole to fathom, good call !
Thanks Albert I read in one of the comments on this subject that the ground from the battery lead to the 5v regulator was enough and you didn’t need to also have a second ground wire to the flight controller were the LED pads are only needed live wire to both
Hi Albert, any ideas on my issue with the same board. It boots up & flies fine on a 1s, if I try a 2s (either 2x 1s or just a 2s lipo) the f/c does nothing. TIA
Hi Albert. One more question. Once its all soldered, would you recommend shrink wrapping the regulator to prevent the wires from making any undesired connections on the flight controller? Or do you think the regulator needs to remain uncovered for ventilation?
Thank you for taking the time to address this! My positive lead is hanging on by my board's trace after the pad came detached during my xt30 conversion. The board mysteriously only comes alive now through the USB. In my case it could be either, but I hope it's just the regulator. After it sits a while I can hear a faint click noise... would this be a symptom of a bad regulator? The battery is not shorting out. Thanks again
Ever have the opposite happen where the drone works with a battery but it won’t connect to betaflight via usb. All my other drone work and have tried 3 different cords. Also tried Mac and PC. I’m lost.
Thanks Albert, my Trashcan is having this issue after flying 2 packs, only powers on with usb.. What AWG wire do i need to use to the regulator and from the regulator to the board?
@@AlbertKimTV Ok i've got my hands on some 26AWG but i think that's close enough, the other side i can use some thin camera wire for the 5V output side ?
@@AlbertKimTVHej dude i think i fixed it, the LEDS actually turn on now :D cant test flight since im waiting for new motors. But this is a very good sign! 35,- for a new FC, or 5,- regulator with some spare time, i'm so happy, you're the man!
On mine the IC is B6287S, very widely available chip. Probably it's something else on the 2S capable boards, since this is only used to boost 1S to 5V.
could you wire the cam vtx and rx to the external 5v and keep the fc powered off its own 5v if your board hasn't been broken yet? also does the pololu output enough current?
Yes you can do that as a preventative measure and the Polulu outputs 1A so should be enough for external RX and VTX up to 200mW. Beyond that power, you'll need something bigger.
Question! I’m already using that 5v out pad to power a rx. Can I bee(haha) feeding voltage to that pad while still powering the rx with it??? I’m guessing no but I’d love to hear the opposite
Hey man for some reason one of my motors is not working properly it looks like it wants to work but it doesn’t. I got the happymodel larva x hd. Any help pls.
Hi, thank you for your video !!! I have the same problem on a UK65 quad, but the crazybee is not the same as yours. Do you know if it is possible to repair it with your method ? Do you know where i have to put that on the FC card ? (What pin) ? Thank you a lot !
@@AlbertKimTV im just afraid to frezze the fc, when he gets 5v from the stepdown regulator and from the usb connection.. And its ok to feed the 5v from the step down in to the cam power pad?
Why did my Eachine trashcan come with a crazybee F4 board and an XT30 connector to solder on if the FC 5v reg cant handle it? Who supplies the XT30 connector in the Trashcan box? The maker of the FC or Eachine? And if it's Eachine don't they know the Crazybee F3/F4 wont work well on 2S with XT30? Did the Mobula7 come with an XT30 connector? I have many questions about the intended purpose/capabilities of the F4 since I have a Trashcan and want to convert to XT30 but am reading I will need to mod it if I don't want it to literally go in the trash when it becomes useless. Awesome video, subbed.
Sorry, I don't know the inner workings of those companies. You know as much as me. I think they didn't do enough testing or they just have some weak ass 5v regulators from their supplier.
I just fried mine today, without using the xt30 (I had avoided installing it due to this issue.) So it seems that it happens more often with the xt30, but it isn't necessarily confined to just that.
@@AlbertKimTV thank you. My first mob7 went down after changing to an xt30 cable. I did a hover test inside for 30 seconds after fitting the xt30, landed and unplugged battery. Tried again a few minutes later and all was dead,, which has put me on hold doing it to my second one, as a lot of these regulators going down seem to be related to the xt30 mod. Fortunately for me and many others it would seem you have saved the day thanks to you and this vid, Big Thanks man keep up the great work, my FC now lives to fly another day.
Hi..this issue is also common in CRAZYBEE F4.. I have one with a broken voltage regulator and another one with a burnt ESC.. I am waiting for the version 2 that hopes fix these issues. In meantime I have got an AIO Betafpv 2s. To avoid any issues in this AIO FC I am going to solder a BEC to feed the VTX and share the VTX ground with the FC. Do you have any news about the CRAZYBEE F4 v2?
Just happened to my Eachine Trashcan after 3 battery packs on XT30 connector. I even had a cap on the power leads. Did they ever fix this issue or do they expect customers to fix it for them? Also, if I do get a replacement, any way to prevent it from happening again? A 10uF cap (largest I could squeeze in between the FC and VTX) wasn't the answer.
These are designed with weak regulators so that's why they are failing for a lot of people. It doesn't mean it will fail for sure but the chances are not low.
The regulator should have input and output sides. Input is the battery lead. Output is to your 5v rail. Yes, any 5v pad will work, they are all connected together electrically. You can test conductivity with a multimeter.
So just got a Trashcan, and video has horizontal moving noise, led strip is spazing out, and osd is flickering. Have to think that all is related to crappy 5v reg. I saw this was an issue with the board, so pre-emptively bought a pololu. Should I wire it up if the on board one isn't dead, just faulty? Or will that make 10v run through everything and fry stuff?
It won't be 10v, still 5v and which ever regulator is stronger will win but I don't really know what will happen since all my boards had dead regulators and not flaky ones.
Thanks for the reply! I think I will just offload the vtx, cam, led, and rx to the pololu, and hope that the onboard regulator will keep working to run the FC. I'll let you know how it goes.
Success! All peripherals wired to draw 5v from the pololu (only disconnected the positive, left ground wires attached to the board) and the video is nice and clear, osd doesn't flicker, so the onboard reg is working fine for those functions.
nice review Albert , can I ask to you , I bought new FC crazybee with DSMX version , but I had problem with ESC sound is nothing when I plug the lipo and motor , can you solve that , or I get broke FC from seller , thanks for respons
Not enough information here to know for sure. If your FC is not getting power with a broken regulator, this fix might work but as I said I don't have enough information to know for sure.
Mine is dead! My 3rd purchased. after 3packs of 1s450mah on LOS/cruising, upon purchase camera shuts down after a few seconds, now it’s permanently blacked out, but still there’s OSD. Lots of failsafe. Won’t bind anymore. What happened? I thought its better from the previous released. 😢
Albert mine worked with usb before the very first time I plugged in an xt30. Now no lights come on with usb or battery however my external vtx powers on
So the first time you plugged in an lipo did anything smoke? So that first plug in, no lights at all? What was the lipo? What is the VTX powered off from? Lipo or 5v?
@@AlbertKimTV No smoke. Lights just went off. I had the usb plugged in and then plugged in the xt30 with a gnb 450 2s AT THE SAME TIME. VTX is a pro32 nano powered off 5v.
Thanks four your video i have a problem i tryed to bind a radiolink at 10 to my mobula 7and i change the reciever in betaflicht to sbus and now my mobula is not recognized by betaflicht enymore wen i plug ith in no respons atall do you have enny sugestions ? i have stil bleu and red led but even my pc is not responce enymore wen i plug the board in eny idea wats happen? krg ROB
Sounds like the config is corrupted. I would try to re-flash the board. Put the board into DFU mode by pressing the bootloader button while plugging in the USB cable and then flash Betaflight by full chip erase.
Got a question: Got all my parts in to do this, and I looked at your setup closely (or maybe not, depending...). The VOUT from the regulator looks like it's going into the LED ground. Or is this a different board than the F4 Pro? Thanks.
@@AlbertKimTV Ok, thought so, but wasn't sure. I can't seem to find an accurate pinout pic of the F4 Pro v2... thoughts? And great video, by the way...
@@AlbertKimTV Another (hopefully not) silly question: the ground that goes into the regulator looks like it's soldered to a spot next to the ground from battery. Looked at F3, not sure what it is. Can I solder to the actual ground instead, like the VCC?
I need help !!! Did this mod on 3 FC's , they are good again , thx so much Albert Kim . However I have a fourth one which is the f4 . It works through usb but won't work with the step down on led 🤔. Any ideas or suggestions 🙏
Turns out I used a voltage booster not step down on the last one 😂🤣... Oops . Also I'm not sure the " micro DC DC converter is smaller then the pololo at .6 grams, But I love how tiny it is !
Hi Albert i've just noticed i soldered the black wire to the ground pad where the batterylead is soldered also but it works. Could this be bad? Since i've noticed you have soldered it to the pin that goes to the shielding of the usb port
Btw looking back i didnt have a choice because my usb shielding has come off in a crash lol, but when i take the ground from where the battery comes it does turn on tho
Hi Albert, I tried this for my crazybee F4 pro v2, running 2s battery with 5v regulation, flying very well but why is my board so hot? I don't have a temperature gauge, it's above 75 degrees Celsius :(
I am facing a different problem my fc powers up when I throttle then it’s just about to take off and falls again so the fc restarts I don’t know why please advise
great video! i have a few bigger fc's with the same proble! altho i have a different problem with a crazybee v1.2 out of a uk65! the built in flysky rx will not bind! have you a fix for this or is there a way to use a different rx?
@@AlbertKimTV Albert can you tell how? right now i got 2 of them, and one got broke usb port (i just blow it, when trying flashing, and computer just turn off, but working normally at battery) and the second one (brand new) got the same problem, with power (need buy a pololu)
I've seen a lot of people having this problem when using XT30. Happy Model are accepting that converting to XT30 will blow your regulator and/or your esc - they are saying to add a 100uF capacitor across the XT30 to smooth the initial voltage spike on connection. They posted their info on their listing on: www.banggood.com/Happymodel-XT30-Plug-Pigtail-Power-Wire-with-100F-Capacitor-for-Mobula7-HD-TRASHCAN-UR85-UR85HD-Crazybee-F3-F4-PRO-Flight-Controller-p-1476203.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
Press and hold the bootloader button while plugging in USB. That will force the board into DFU mode and then you can reflash with the correct firmware.
I really like the' necessity is the mother of invention' attitude that you share. Keep up the good work.
Albert, this happened to my mob7 yesterday. Flew around fine on 2s, plugged the 3rd lipo in and nothing. This fix worked a treat :) Thank you...
Glad it helped!
Wow! I would be jumping up n down right now if I had a dead crazybee. Thanks for this. I’m sure you made a lot of folks day today. 👍🏼
mine died today, i'm pretty sure it's the same problem, i can even spin motors in betaflight but no power when i unplug usb. Damn less than 2 packs on that board how the hell did this happend.
You should be jumping up and down if you DONT have a dead crazybee ;) you must be lucky with yours!
Flown one day and didnt think I had any hard crashes and then boom no charge. Great help. I guess I need to learn how to solder.
Thanks for this. I figured this would work but didn't have time to test it. I'm pretty sure you can run 3S on that board you have now. It was just the 5v that was limiting it.
@@KrotowX that stuff comes from the FC. Not the cam
@KababFPV Yeah, I think you can definitely do 3S now. However, the Polulu I used only goes up to 11.8v. So probably should use one of the other voltage regulators I listed with a higher voltage range.
@@KrotowX The FC reads voltage from the main battery line so those readings are unaffected.
@@KrotowX That's a different board than the one in this video and I'm not familiar with how that one is setup so sorry can't help with that.
@KababFPV But it's the same board you have said that is very reliable. So what's up with that? Wanted to grab board or two but know I really doubt...
Excellent work Albert! You are a wealth of knowledge and the community thanks you.
Thanks!
Happened to me on the Trashcan using the F4 board very shortly after using the xt30. thanks for the fix!
Finally got my regulator in from Amazon and soldered it up last night. Flies like a charm! Thanks so much Albert. And also confirming that I was able to hook up the regulator along with my external RX to the same pads. Along with the buzzer it's all a very tight fit but managed to get everything in there.
awesome!
Thanks for this Albert. This seems to be a common problem and it's great to see a working fix for these boards!
damn near one year later to the week, i've had to perform this "hack". Thanks sooo much Albert. i can't believe this was in my watch history.
This is actually a common problem with a lot of FCs before the crazybee. I actually started doing this hack about TWO years earlier.
@@AlbertKimTV I'm not sure if you've done a 'PSA' on the other issue with the CrazyBee F3, F4+. about betaflight getting reset if battery goes below 3.0v. Nick Burns mentioned this issue to me after i thought I fried my mobula6 board. you know a lot of stuff I'm sure you're aware of that issue?
Fantastic video! This will help a lot of people. The community thanks you.
Hi. I have the Opposite problem with a brand new on. ,when i connect the batteries it juts make the first 3 tones and stops. It wont connect to betaflight on mac but other quad does so no poert problem. Usb powers it up leds are on , vtx is working, but no connection with betaflight. Please help.
The firmware on the FC might be corrupted. Boot up the FC in DFU mode by holding down the boot button while plugging into USB. Then reflash the firmware to the board.
Albert Kim I already tried that. If I connect the Mobula to a pc there is absolutely no reaction from the computer. Like nothing plugged in. If this is occurred how can a flash the firmware? Thanks
You recommended these awhile back and I listened they seemed useless till now awesome vid
Thank you Albert. Had exactly the same symptoms on my crazybee fc. Now fixed. Excellent
Awesome!
Not at all. You're tutorials are excellent and unbiased. On that basis just ordered a meteor 75 frame and motors etc from tinywhoop in the US,awaiting transatlantic flight to the UK encouraged by your conversion.
To date, this is my best quadrocopter mini format and the most powerful one I could collect. It remains only to choose the motors that will normally digest 4S in such a small format.
For me, this is a breakthrough!!!!!
this just happen to my crazybee f3 pro yesterday and many thanks you have share this to everyone. i think the factory must upgrade the regulator for next hardware version ( this is a must hahahaha)
Thanks for the heads up. I will be ordering a 5v Regulator for my stock.
Good afternoon, man. It's just incomprehensible. I left 4S on this board and He flies on 4S just like crazy.
Was wonderful to build my 65mm , do a maiden test . Went well , due to weather waited a few days and charged some packs. Plug in the battery and nothing. Pretty discouraging
This is the same symptoms I've had with the F4 version. I got about a 12 packs through my TrashCan before it failed with these symptoms, and then I got a new replacement F4 Pro board, and same problem again after just 1 flight/battery.
Rick in Jax same here
Wow I just through a trashcan flight board out with this same problem and ordered another one. Looks like it's dumpster diving for me in the morning. Thanks Mr Kim
Mine just did the same thing after 3 flights
@@kd9432 I got the second board and did this mod and all was good until after a crash into the dirt dislodged a solder pad on the board and it is crap now. I am done spending money on this eachine piece of junk.
@@polemagnetfpv did u double side tapbe it with shrink tube?
@@kd9432 Yes you have to or you will get magic smoke.
Dude thank you so much I was going crazy trying to figure this out and buying a new board. Luckily I kept the old one and this worked like a charm. Keep up the good work. o7
awesome! another crazybee saved!
This just happened to me today! Thank you for making this video!!😃😃 such a relief, was freaking out after just dropping some cash on 4 new motors:) thank you so much for this video!!:D
Thanks Albert , you just saved me from buying a third FC for Eachine Trashcan 👍🏼 .
Well I’m going garbage diving I threw mine away 3 days ago lol. Awesome job Albert thanks👍
Top work Albert keep it up this is fpv gold
Interesting...I have an F3 and an F4 pro each with different symptoms than this. My F3 seems to have one ESC which is either intermittent or bad. My F4 seems to work fine, but under reduced power...like less power than if I was just using a 1s battery previously....I can fly it but it is no fun at all :-). I replaced my F3 with a new one and all is good now on that whoop...waiting on a new F4 proand I assume it will address the problem on that whoop. Of course I tried initially searching for my issues but very very little content out there highlighting specific problems on these boards.
My crazybee f4 just stopped powering up today ! It’s a pretty new build don’t know if I want go though trouble of doing this fix might just buy a new board. The board had problems powering up sometimes from day one and now nothing.
Thank you Albert. I try this setup very soon on my mobula!
Albert, What if I've lifted the positive power supply pad? Is there somewhere else I can apply vbat (2S)?
(Actually got it to work. Just to the left of the positive in pad is a bit of metal that can be exposed if you scrape the paint away with a plastic spudger.)
Going to try it on my GEPRC 12A F4. Thanks Albert!
Good luck!
I had the same issue and fix on my eachine trashcan...make sure the regulator is not close to vtx or it will produce too much noise in fpv.
To conserve the handy beeper function, my initial thought was to give the constant 5v through the aio camera. I guess this is not a good idea.
I think all the 5volt pads are interconnected so it doesn't make a difference which one you choose. I chose the 5volt led pad because it was convenient.
@@ChrisLBradly Yes, all 5v on the board is connected together.
@@AlbertKimTV Thanks fellas. Sorry if I misheard you Albert. Didn't even think about the led pads I definitely don't need those.
How about another positive Vbat location? I dont fully trust that the Welder Glue is a long term fix.
Great video, i have the same issue on two crazybe f4. The issue came up when I flashed the software with betafly. It the saved the configuration before I try the software upgrade but it does not help trying to apply back the old configuration. I get the power red light and FC blue light to come on. What I do not see is the LED for the receiver to come on. Is strange that this happened because it was find until I flashed the software. Now it won't bind.
Albert Kim, Does the 5v ground go to the pad that the battery lead goes to? In the video it looks like it’s not, looks like it’s going to the pad to the right, but I think you are using a different version of the board. I’m using the Crazybee Pro F4 v1 that came with the Trashcan, thanks.
I'm just connecting it to some random ground point. You can use any ground, it doesn't matter.
Thank you Albert!
The BG Link was golden
Hey man my buddy had one that came off a vtx and it does work thankyou king sir for saving me 80$ awsome fix🖒🖒🖒
i wonder if you could use the 5v out from some micro vtx as well after suppling it 2s direct to the vtx, save wieght...
Most micro VTX won't have a BEC that can supply enough current to all the components on the board but you can try and blow up the BEC if you want to
Thanks Albert this is such a great fix easy and cheap ..$10 my mobula 7 is back in the air 😊👍
Great 👍
Hello Albert. Thanks a lot. Question: Is it necessary to cut some PCB way or remove any component from FC regulator, so it will not interfere with external one? Thanks again.
Thank you very much. In germany i only can find a 6V Output. Will it work? Thanks for an answer
I don't know... 6v might burn the FC components.
anyone have a diagram or diagnose which linear voltage regulator part is actually failing? I've been looking for it but can't seem to identify the faulty component.
Also interested. Should be easy to replace once the component is identified.
Noice. I did the exact same fix with a 5v linear regulator chip that I stole directly from a dead aio full size. It gets extremely hot but it works! Won't work with 1s however, just 2s and above.
Only thing that is weird is my fc wouldn't hook up to betaflight. It just fell out of the sky. tx and rx still talking to one another but no arming and the LED was all white and real bright. I may have been right to order another one and I am apprehensive about the dumpster diving at this point.
So good to find this when I needed it. Any reason why you used a slightly thicker wire from the battery positive to the Pololu?
Just wire I had laying around. I just tried to match the battery lead but not necessary.
Albert, This Exact Same Thing Is Happening To My GEPRC CineStyle, VTX Not Warm Anymore, R-XSR Wont Light Up, When I Plug Into Betaflight Everything Looks Fine, Excatly Like This Vid, Would I Be Able To Use A 5V BEC On The CineStyle FC To Get It Going, And Can You Point Me Where To Buy One, A 5V BEC, They Seem To Be Sold Out All Over, Thank You So Much Albert, Your Vids Are Such Great Help !
Yes, should work and links are in the description
Albert great video love the fix it ones please keep them coming.
hey albert, why not reflow the reg on the PCB and replace it with a new one instead of the addition of a step reg
Because I don't know how to do that and don't know where to get the part as well.
@@AlbertKimTV you made a major point on, where in the world could someone locate a replacement IC that fit its specs, ..that could become a migraine inducing rabbit hole to fathom, good call !
Hi Albert great fix will 1 ground to the battery lead be enough ? 😊
What do you mean by "enough"?
Thanks Albert I read in one of the comments on this subject that the ground from the battery lead to the 5v regulator was enough and you didn’t need to also have a second ground wire to the flight controller were the LED pads are only needed live wire to both
Wow nice to see it tested !
Hi Albert, any ideas on my issue with the same board. It boots up & flies fine on a 1s, if I try a 2s (either 2x 1s or just a 2s lipo) the f/c does nothing. TIA
Hi Albert. One more question. Once its all soldered, would you recommend shrink wrapping the regulator to prevent the wires from making any undesired connections on the flight controller? Or do you think the regulator needs to remain uncovered for ventilation?
I would shrink wrap it. I didn't do that here for obvious reasons...
@@AlbertKimTV Awesome thanks!
Thank you for taking the time to address this! My positive lead is hanging on by my board's trace after the pad came detached during my xt30 conversion. The board mysteriously only comes alive now through the USB. In my case it could be either, but I hope it's just the regulator.
After it sits a while I can hear a faint click noise... would this be a symptom of a bad regulator? The battery is not shorting out.
Thanks again
Mine never made any noises, so I'm not sure what that is. If it powers up by USB, this fix will probably work for you.
Ever have the opposite happen where the drone works with a battery but it won’t connect to betaflight via usb. All my other drone work and have tried 3 different cords. Also tried Mac and PC. I’m lost.
Sounds like a USB driver problem. See this video... th-cam.com/video/0mrJG7AOmRI/w-d-xo.html
I've got this same problem with my tinyhawk f411 board do you know if it would work with that? Thanks as always for all your videos
Honestly, I don't know. However, if your board is dead in the same way, it wouldn't hurt to try this fix.
Thanks Albert, my Trashcan is having this issue after flying 2 packs, only powers on with usb..
What AWG wire do i need to use to the regulator and from the regulator to the board?
I think 22awg is good enough.
@@AlbertKimTV Ok i've got my hands on some 26AWG but i think that's close enough, the other side i can use some thin camera wire for the 5V output side ?
@@AlbertKimTVHej dude i think i fixed it, the LEDS actually turn on now :D cant test flight since im waiting for new motors. But this is a very good sign!
35,- for a new FC, or 5,- regulator with some spare time, i'm so happy, you're the man!
Quad Copter how you fix it ? Mine 5v and gnb alreade used by vtx and camera how i do solder then ?
how about replacing the dead regulator IC on the board? :)
I think definitely possible but that part is harder to find. Do you know where to get one?
On mine the IC is B6287S, very widely available chip. Probably it's something else on the 2S capable boards, since this is only used to boost 1S to 5V.
Trying to figure out if I can do the with a Crazybee f3 from a ur65 which doesn’t have led pass. Could I use the camera solder points instead?
Yes, any available 5v pad will work as well
Albert Kim thank you! Much appreciated
Hi Albert, how about replacing the regulator from a donor board? Also, please do esc fix next time. Thank you
could you wire the cam vtx and rx to the external 5v and keep the fc powered off its own 5v if your board hasn't been broken yet? also does the pololu output enough current?
Yes you can do that as a preventative measure and the Polulu outputs 1A so should be enough for external RX and VTX up to 200mW. Beyond that power, you'll need something bigger.
Question!
I’m already using that 5v out pad to power a rx. Can I bee(haha) feeding voltage to that pad while still powering the rx with it??? I’m guessing no but I’d love to hear the opposite
Yes, that's OK. In and out on the same pad is not a problem as long as the voltage range is correct.
Albert Kim thank you!!
Hey man for some reason one of my motors is not working properly it looks like it wants to work but it doesn’t. I got the happymodel larva x hd. Any help pls.
Have you tried swapping motors? Did you see my other video on how to test?
Hi, thank you for your video !!! I have the same problem on a UK65 quad, but the crazybee is not the same as yours. Do you know if it is possible to repair it with your method ? Do you know where i have to put that on the FC card ? (What pin) ? Thank you a lot !
Yes, the technique is the same.
Hi albert, whats happen if you do this fix, and have to connect to blheli with a lipo?
It should still work. What issue are you having or think you will have?
@@AlbertKimTV im just afraid to frezze the fc, when he gets 5v from the stepdown regulator and from the usb connection..
And its ok to feed the 5v from the step down in to the cam power pad?
all the 5v connections are the same anywhere. Basic electronics knowledge here.
Why did my Eachine trashcan come with a crazybee F4 board and an XT30 connector to solder on if the FC 5v reg cant handle it? Who supplies the XT30 connector in the Trashcan box? The maker of the FC or Eachine? And if it's Eachine don't they know the Crazybee F3/F4 wont work well on 2S with XT30? Did the Mobula7 come with an XT30 connector? I have many questions about the intended purpose/capabilities of the F4 since I have a Trashcan and want to convert to XT30 but am reading I will need to mod it if I don't want it to literally go in the trash when it becomes useless. Awesome video, subbed.
Sorry, I don't know the inner workings of those companies. You know as much as me. I think they didn't do enough testing or they just have some weak ass 5v regulators from their supplier.
I just fried mine today, without using the xt30 (I had avoided installing it due to this issue.) So it seems that it happens more often with the xt30, but it isn't necessarily confined to just that.
Does the voltage regulator get hot during operation? Also, did you ever find one that works well for 3s?
It gets warm but not hot. Obviously don't stick it somewhere it can't get any airflow. It will get hot then!
Thank you very much, exactly the problem that I have on my cards ... (yes, I replace it and I broke the 5v regulator of the second too!)
Hi Albert, could you tell me if you can use shrink wrap on this regulator to protect against shorting out, or do they get too hot for that.
Thanks.
heat shrink should be OK
@@AlbertKimTV thank you. My first mob7 went down after changing to an xt30 cable. I did a hover test inside for 30 seconds after fitting the xt30, landed and unplugged battery. Tried again a few minutes later and all was dead,, which has put me on hold doing it to my second one, as a lot of these regulators going down seem to be related to the xt30 mod. Fortunately for me and many others it would seem you have saved the day thanks to you and this vid, Big Thanks man keep up the great work, my FC now lives to fly another day.
Hi..this issue is also common in CRAZYBEE F4.. I have one with a broken voltage regulator and another one with a burnt ESC.. I am waiting for the version 2 that hopes fix these issues. In meantime I have got an AIO Betafpv 2s. To avoid any issues in this AIO FC I am going to solder a BEC to feed the VTX and share the VTX ground with the FC. Do you have any news about the CRAZYBEE F4 v2?
V2 isn't out yet. I hear it's coming next month.
Just happened to my Eachine Trashcan after 3 battery packs on XT30 connector. I even had a cap on the power leads. Did they ever fix this issue or do they expect customers to fix it for them? Also, if I do get a replacement, any way to prevent it from happening again? A 10uF cap (largest I could squeeze in between the FC and VTX) wasn't the answer.
These are designed with weak regulators so that's why they are failing for a lot of people. It doesn't mean it will fail for sure but the chances are not low.
thanks, works. i put 7805 regulator, temporary into became this board from china, im from Brasil, thanks again
How do you know which end of your ext voltage regulator to solder to the batt wires ? And also do you just use any 5v and any ground pad ? Thanks!
The regulator should have input and output sides. Input is the battery lead. Output is to your 5v rail. Yes, any 5v pad will work, they are all connected together electrically. You can test conductivity with a multimeter.
What gauge wire you use
How to fiy this issue with the crazybee F3 FR?( 1s, without LED pins)
So just got a Trashcan, and video has horizontal moving noise, led strip is spazing out, and osd is flickering. Have to think that all is related to crappy 5v reg. I saw this was an issue with the board, so pre-emptively bought a pololu. Should I wire it up if the on board one isn't dead, just faulty? Or will that make 10v run through everything and fry stuff?
It won't be 10v, still 5v and which ever regulator is stronger will win but I don't really know what will happen since all my boards had dead regulators and not flaky ones.
Thanks for the reply! I think I will just offload the vtx, cam, led, and rx to the pololu, and hope that the onboard regulator will keep working to run the FC. I'll let you know how it goes.
Success! All peripherals wired to draw 5v from the pololu (only disconnected the positive, left ground wires attached to the board) and the video is nice and clear, osd doesn't flicker, so the onboard reg is working fine for those functions.
nice review Albert , can I ask to you , I bought new FC crazybee with DSMX version , but I had problem with ESC sound is nothing when I plug the lipo and motor , can you solve that , or I get broke FC from seller , thanks for respons
Not enough information here to know for sure. If your FC is not getting power with a broken regulator, this fix might work but as I said I don't have enough information to know for sure.
Great Video .... on 2S battery I also get power BUT on 2 x 1S No Power - what could the issue possibly be ? Crazybee F4 Pro V2.0 board
Your connectors are worn out and you need better ones.
Super .... as always Your Advice is Greatly Appreciated .... Happy Whooping from South Africa 🙏🏻
Mine is dead! My 3rd purchased. after 3packs of 1s450mah on LOS/cruising, upon purchase camera shuts down after a few seconds, now it’s permanently blacked out, but still there’s OSD. Lots of failsafe. Won’t bind anymore. What happened? I thought its better from the previous released. 😢
Great hack nice job man ive used smaller voltage regulators but only pass thru style.that one seems just about right 👍
Albert mine worked with usb before the very first time I plugged in an xt30. Now no lights come on with usb or battery however my external vtx powers on
So the first time you plugged in an lipo did anything smoke? So that first plug in, no lights at all? What was the lipo? What is the VTX powered off from? Lipo or 5v?
@@AlbertKimTV No smoke. Lights just went off. I had the usb plugged in and then plugged in the xt30 with a gnb 450 2s AT THE SAME TIME. VTX is a pro32 nano powered off 5v.
Does it matter what gauge wire you use?
22AWG or 26AWF should be OK.
Thanks four your video i have a problem i tryed to bind a radiolink at 10 to my mobula 7and i change the reciever in betaflicht to sbus and now my mobula is not recognized by betaflicht enymore wen i plug ith in no respons atall do you have enny sugestions ? i have stil bleu and red led but even my pc is not responce enymore wen i plug the board in eny idea wats happen? krg ROB
Sounds like the config is corrupted. I would try to re-flash the board. Put the board into DFU mode by pressing the bootloader button while plugging in the USB cable and then flash Betaflight by full chip erase.
Can i do this in my fc ? In my case, fc overheat and loop restart, whatever 1s or 2s, my fc will loop restart and the board is overheat.
I'm not sure that is the same problem.
Thanks man! Fixed mine like this now works perfect 👍
Niiiiccceeee!
I just order regulator step down and i hope it will works with mine
Got a question: Got all my parts in to do this, and I looked at your setup closely (or maybe not, depending...). The VOUT from the regulator looks like it's going into the LED ground. Or is this a different board than the F4 Pro? Thanks.
The board in the video is the F3 not the F4 Pro, so the board layout is different.
@@AlbertKimTV Ok, thought so, but wasn't sure. I can't seem to find an accurate pinout pic of the F4 Pro v2... thoughts? And great video, by the way...
@@AlbertKimTV Another (hopefully not) silly question: the ground that goes into the regulator looks like it's soldered to a spot next to the ground from battery. Looked at F3, not sure what it is. Can I solder to the actual ground instead, like the VCC?
Ground is the same everywhere. You can solder to any ground you feel like.
wiring diagram - bit.ly/2VAjTPY
I need help !!! Did this mod on 3 FC's , they are good again , thx so much Albert Kim . However I have a fourth one which is the f4 . It works through usb but won't work with the step down on led 🤔. Any ideas or suggestions 🙏
Did you try an alternate 5v pad? Are you sure you connected to a 5v pad? The boards have different layouts so it can be confusing.
Turns out I used a voltage booster not step down on the last one 😂🤣... Oops . Also I'm not sure the " micro DC DC converter is smaller then the pololo at .6 grams, But I love how tiny it is !
Ok, one last question , would a step down with a 3.3votks output be ok for this mod ?
Hi Albert i've just noticed i soldered the black wire to the ground pad where the batterylead is soldered also but it works.
Could this be bad? Since i've noticed you have soldered it to the pin that goes to the shielding of the usb port
Btw looking back i didnt have a choice because my usb shielding has come off in a crash lol, but when i take the ground from where the battery comes it does turn on tho
Ground is the same everywhere so it doesn't matter where you connect it to.
@@AlbertKimTV lol okay im so ashamed now thanks buddy, my friend is gonna fix his one now also, but he mentioned i did it wrong so thats why lol!
Hi Albert, I tried this for my crazybee F4 pro v2, running 2s battery with 5v regulation, flying very well but why is my board so hot? I don't have a temperature gauge, it's above 75 degrees Celsius :(
The ESCs?
I am facing a different problem my fc powers up when I throttle then it’s just about to take off and falls again so the fc restarts I don’t know why please advise
great video! i have a few bigger fc's with the same proble! altho i have a different problem with a crazybee v1.2 out of a uk65! the built in flysky rx will not bind! have you a fix for this or is there a way to use a different rx?
Different boards will have uart pads for external receivers. See this video - th-cam.com/video/_O3svdP2sZ8/w-d-xo.html
I appreciate it cause there is hardly any info on this issue
Would a betafpv board fit on a trashcan?
If you're asking about the one from the Pro2 series, those are the same size. I don't know about the others.
The USB connection on my f3 crazybee has come off, is it fixable? Thanks in advance
Yes, but you need a hot air gun and some mad soldering skills.
@@AlbertKimTV Albert can you tell how? right now i got 2 of them, and one got broke usb port (i just blow it, when trying flashing, and computer just turn off, but working normally at battery) and the second one (brand new) got the same problem, with power (need buy a pololu)
If I have an external RX already using the LED 5V pad, can it be shared with the 5V regulator?
Yes, if you can do the soldering it's not a problem.
@@AlbertKimTV Awesome! Thanks a ton for your ingenuity.
Albert, cheers, you just saved me a board!
I've seen a lot of people having this problem when using XT30. Happy Model are accepting that converting to XT30 will blow your regulator and/or your esc - they are saying to add a 100uF capacitor across the XT30 to smooth the initial voltage spike on connection. They posted their info on their listing on: www.banggood.com/Happymodel-XT30-Plug-Pigtail-Power-Wire-with-100F-Capacitor-for-Mobula7-HD-TRASHCAN-UR85-UR85HD-Crazybee-F3-F4-PRO-Flight-Controller-p-1476203.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
Wonder if some could help me out. I burnt off the rx 2 pad on this board is there any other location to access rx2 pad
Only other spot is on the MCU chip itself. Very difficult to mod.
@@AlbertKimTV thanks for the answer I figured it would be do you know what trace on the mcu
My mobula 6 just have a solid red light when I connect the battery. Won't connect to Betaflight either. 😟
I flash the fc with the wrong firmware now my fc doesn’t connect to beta flight is there anything then I can do? :,(
Press and hold the bootloader button while plugging in USB. That will force the board into DFU mode and then you can reflash with the correct firmware.
Thank you so much it works now the quad is shaking a lot lol
Good reference. I haven't had either of mine break....yet.
Is there another 5v pad on the fc?