🔥🔥🔥 GET THE ULTIMATE ALL IN ONE ALL SURFACE CLEANER. Release All Purpose/All Surface Cleaner is a perfect for solution for all your RV cleaning needs. Click below and use the Discount Code "endless10" for 10% off your purchase of Release releasecleaner.com/
You should remove the negative terminal cable first. If you were to accidentally make contact with the metal chassis with your ratchet or wrench while working, hitting the chassis while removing the negative will not result in a direct short. Then once the negative is removed, if you were to accidentally make contact with your tool to the chassis while removing the positive terminal cable, you would not have a direct short from pos to neg since the neg was already disconnected. When installing the battery, do this in reverse for the same reasons. Servicing the connections in this order will always prevent a direct short between chassis and battery through the tool.
Trained Master Auto Mechanic here. Always, Always remove the negative terminal first when removing/disabling the battery. Always do this. What you posted is dangerous. Removing the positive post first is setting you up for serious problems and damage to your electrical system. Also when connecting the battery on installation the negative post is always connected last. This is basic electrical installation procedure. Be careful about the information you post. This is scary to see this type of miss information being posted on TH-cam. Please amend this post so people won’t get injured by false information.
@rakasperson, Mr. Trained Master Auto Mechanic, you don't provide any reason for your method. You sound like a grandmother explaining the order of soup ingredients but does so only because her mother taught her that way. The reason is that the chassis is electrically the same neg. terminal ground potential, so if one were to accidentally touch the metal chassis with their wrench or ratchet while removing the neg. terminal first, both are at the same voltage potential and will not cause a battery short. Then while disconnecting the pos. terminal, if accidentally touch the chassis with their wrench or ratchet, there will not be direct battery short through the tool to the chassis because the neg. terminal is already disconnected. Reverse for installation. Breaking and making the connections in this order will always prevent a direct short of the battery through the tool to the chassis. This applies to any vehicle with a neg. battery chassis ground, which is almost all north american vehicles.
Reason: If you remove the positive cable from the post first, there is ALWAYS a chance that your tool will hit a ground while it is on the positive terminal. That's called a crowbar short. It can pull 3000 amps from a car battery. Welding or evaporating some things. I got lucky, I only lightly welded from bezel on my watch. The USN used to have a picture on the web of a sailor who accidentally shorted out a battery with his wedding ring, resulting in what is medically referred to as a trsumatic amputation of his ring finger. If you remove the ground cable first, you can't short it out to ground, and nothing else can short to ground after you've done that. Electricans wear plastic watches and no jewelry. Some of them use pricey beryllium copper tools, which cannot spark, or glass filled nylon, which is not as durable but simply doesn't conduct.
Make sure you are putting out safe and correct information pertaining to RV's! In an RV that has two battery systems, they both use the same chassis ground. So even removing the NEG terminal first does not guarantee 0 voltage potential. Depending on the model there are times when both banks are connected by a relay to allow charging of both banks by a single source (inverter charger or alternator). Make sure the engine is off (duh) AND the RV is unplugged from any AC source, and inverter/charger is off. Then remove all negatives from each battery bank. To be sure you have 0 voltage potential at the battery you are going to remove, always check with a voltmeter the voltage from that POS terminal to chassis. Should be 0 volts. Now you are safe!
I replaced my start batteries on my rv and toad with ANTI GRAVITY BATTERIES. They are LITHIUM an have double the power of yours they weight 19 lbs and are Perfect. I've used them for 4 years now , down to -24c and they are amazing. Yes they cost $850. US each, but they will last the next 25 years and maybe more. ABSOLUTELY WORTH THE MONEY, No terminal corrosion, no water,no maintenance, for literally ever. I switched my house batteries in 2013 with lithium and have not ever had a problem or concern and they still have full capacity. I part time 6 months a year, with full electric cooking and use 480watts solar to refill and most often by 11 am they are full and then heating water the rest of the day. CHEERS AND SAFE TRAVELS Steve h.
Izzy, Always remove the ground cable first then you don't have to worry about any of the 'hot' cables/wires shorting out on any grounded metal anywhere, BTW, going from a 'wet cell' to an AGM be sure to check your charger settings because that AGM may need different charger settings. Also, look into PowerPulse maintenance modules as then will help extend the life or your battery.
I was taught to remove the negative terminal first. I know when changing my house batteries, the instructions was to remove the positive first. These days I pay someone else to do it. I have been an Interstate battery guy for decades.
Thank you everyone for reminding people to remove the negative cable first. My father and grandfather taught me basic car maintenance and always told me the right way to do something is the only way to do something. Besides, they said, that doing something wrong could cause irreversible damage not only to the automobile but to your body as well. Remember, you can always get another automobile but you only have one body, and your body has to last a lifetime Peace.
Nice battery review Izzy and MJ on the Odyssey. I went with Deka Ultimate maintenance free but not a AGM for the chassis, still 750 CCA at 0*F. My 4 6-volt house batteries, I'm going with Deka AGM Intimidator 190Ah batteries. Deka is a East Penn manufacturing US battery company. Also one recommendation always remove the negative battery cable first, this can prevent and arcing if the wrench would happen to touch a metal surface, also it's minimizes any sparks if there was any load on at the time the cables was removed.
Izzy…Izzy…love y’all videos, a lot of good stuff. Now it is a big No No to take off the positive first. Here is the reason, if you drop your wrench or ratchet and it crosses over to any part of the frame, instantly sparking, or full AMP draw, causing it to weld. Now, if this is a lead acid battery and there are fumes, you can have an explosion. When re-installing, positive first, negative last.
Wow Izzy, I am surprised that you didn't remove the negative terminal first, I say this because while you were removing the positive terminal first you could have been compromised in you being a conductive if had accidentally touched the ratcheting something metallic though keeping in mind that you done this twice before it's not so much the ratchet it's you getting zapped though being it said that zap might be small it's still can be unnerving if you never had a little jolt before. As for the extra battery take it with you if you have the storage in the event something could happen with the new one. Hey one never knows... Safe and Happy Travels to you and your family.
Release is the truth! A car splashed some watery concrete on the side of my car, and it literally took one spraying followed by one wiping to make it look like nothing happened.
Release is a pretty toxic cleaner. The SDS (Safety Data Sheet) on their website indicates you should use protection. P280: Wear protective gloves/protective clothing/eye protection/face protection. You seem to not be concerned based on how you're applying it? Here''s more from product SDS on release website. ... Classification of the substance or mixture: Acute Toxicity. 4: Acute toxicity if swallowed, Category 4, H302 Eye Dam. 1: Serious eye damage, Category 1, H318 Skin Corr. 1A: Skin corrosion, Category 1A, H314 STOT SE 3: Respiratory tract toxicity, single exposure, Category 3, H335
We just upgraded our Stock Class B Mercedes Benz Chassis Starter Battery to an Antigravity 80ah Lithium Battery with 2x remotes for emergency starts, if needed. Installed it myself. Now we don't have to worry as much about getting stuck due to a drained battery. Great idea Izzy about keeping the old battery. I was gonna turn it in, now I'm gonna keep it and leave it on a battery tender. Thanks! Just a quick note: connect positive first then negative. DIsconnect negative first then positive.
Hi Izzy and MJ. Perfect timing because I just replaced my 2 Chassis batteries on my 2016 Class A diesel today. I checked out the Odyssey batteries. One thing I would like to mention is the Class A diesel takes a Group 31 battery and it looks like yours is a Group 65. It probably will not work in your new diesel. Have a great Summer and thanks for the videos.
Hey Izzy - your battery upgrade video is very timely! We bought a new (used) RV last September and the battery was one thing I hadn't checked nor had the dealer on their initial inspection. I went right out to check it (even though it's still 102 here!) and sure enough it was almost out of water - yikes! So thank you for posting this upgrade and fortuitous reminder. Coincidently, we bought our rig because it has Liquid Springs on the rear and I didn't know about the electrical draw - so thanks for that tip as well!
Did you do the relearn on the computer when you changed the battery? Our 2013 F53 has a process for relearn fuel trim when the battery is disconnected or replaced. Check your owners manual. Interstate MTP-65HD lead acid on mine F53 went seven years before I proactively replaced it. Could not get another one close by so I went with a Duracell from Battery Plus - local franchise business. I always proactively replace my batteries rather than wait for them to slow crank or go dead. Our van has a big AGM that just went dead without warning. The AAA battery guy recommended to replace the AGM every three years because they only last three to four years in a daily driver. I've never had a AGM before. Even in our boat I used lead acid. I go five years on the lead acid in the car that sits in the garage and the motorhome's start and house batteries. Easy access so PM is not an issue.
Izzy great job on the upgrade. I’m hiring you change my car battery! Lol! Flying you it to Vegas to change the battery from this heat wave. Lol! 120 today going up after fussy and cooling down by Friday. Great idea to put the Diehard back on when you go to sell Nelli! Great video!
@@EndlessRVing Can you give me the title. I have watched most of your videos and I searched the other day and I couldn’t find it. Thanks to both of you. Your channel is so helpful.
Still subscribed, I noticed whenever you made a video on firearms I’d magically be unsubscribed. I like your take on preventative maintenance. Never want to be forced to buy a subpar battery for an inflated price in a pinch. If your battery doesn’t have a handle and it’s tough to get a grip on I use a 17mm or so closed end wrench over the negative terminal. Then you’ve got a little handle
Izzy, Maybe I missed it but what is the camera over the top of your license plate? I use Odyssey on my motorcycle for many years now. They last about 10 years. Love them! I use a BatteryMINDer Model 128CEC2 on the RV Starter Battery that does all kids of good things for the battery, including desulfidating. It is Odyssey approved and has an "Odyssey" setting. Still have the original Ford 2017 battery. When it fails I will do what you did and get an Odyssey.
As mentioned before by many people who watched this…NEGATIVE cable comes off first. It is incase you have the socket or wrench on the positive cable and if you hit metal it will arc in your face and cause some serious problems. Always disconnect the negative first !! Stay safe And Happy Rv’ing
Endless RVing + Does Release cleaner have any Forever Chemicals? PFAS (Per- and polyfluorinated alkyl substances), also known as the Forever Chemicals, are a large chemical family of over 10,000 highly persistent chemicals that don't occur in nature.
😂. No kidding. It's not an investment, it becomes a hobby. Like motorsports, you never get the cost back out of it. It's about the enjoyment it brings.
I gave this a thumbs down because of misinformation concerning the order to remove the battery cables. Always, ALWAYS remove the negative first. Removing the positive first can have disastrous results if you happen to get your wrench against anything that is ground. Major sparks will fly, potential damage to the wrench, possibility of welding the wrench between the positive and ground, and potential damage to anything connected to the chassis battery. When installing the new battery connect the positive first, then negative. Please update your video so that others will not make the same mistake.
Guy’ s I have unsubscribed. It is enough with TH-cam’s commercials. I don’t buy anything advertised by TH-camrs. Sorry just my way of cleaning up TH-cam.
🔥🔥🔥 GET THE ULTIMATE ALL IN ONE ALL SURFACE CLEANER. Release All Purpose/All Surface Cleaner is a perfect for solution for all your RV cleaning needs. Click below and use the Discount Code "endless10"
for 10% off your purchase of Release
releasecleaner.com/
You should remove the negative terminal cable first. If you were to accidentally make contact with the metal chassis with your ratchet or wrench while working, hitting the chassis while removing the negative will not result in a direct short. Then once the negative is removed, if you were to accidentally make contact with your tool to the chassis while removing the positive terminal cable, you would not have a direct short from pos to neg since the neg was already disconnected. When installing the battery, do this in reverse for the same reasons. Servicing the connections in this order will always prevent a direct short between chassis and battery through the tool.
I was about to make the same comment! Remove negative first. Install goes positive first.
Beat me to it.
Trained Master Auto Mechanic here. Always, Always remove the negative terminal first when removing/disabling the battery. Always do this. What you posted is dangerous. Removing the positive post first is setting you up for serious problems and damage to your electrical system. Also when connecting the battery on installation the negative post is always connected last. This is basic electrical installation procedure. Be careful about the information you post. This is scary to see this type of miss information being posted on TH-cam. Please amend this post so people won’t get injured by false information.
@rakasperson, Mr. Trained Master Auto Mechanic, you don't provide any reason for your method. You sound like a grandmother explaining the order of soup ingredients but does so only because her mother taught her that way. The reason is that the chassis is electrically the same neg. terminal ground potential, so if one were to accidentally touch the metal chassis with their wrench or ratchet while removing the neg. terminal first, both are at the same voltage potential and will not cause a battery short. Then while disconnecting the pos. terminal, if accidentally touch the chassis with their wrench or ratchet, there will not be direct battery short through the tool to the chassis because the neg. terminal is already disconnected. Reverse for installation. Breaking and making the connections in this order will always prevent a direct short of the battery through the tool to the chassis. This applies to any vehicle with a neg. battery chassis ground, which is almost all north american vehicles.
@@warsurplusmansplain much?
Reason: If you remove the positive cable from the post first, there is ALWAYS a chance that your tool will hit a ground while it is on the positive terminal.
That's called a crowbar short. It can pull 3000 amps from a car battery. Welding or evaporating some things. I got lucky, I only lightly welded from bezel on my watch. The USN used to have a picture on the web of a sailor who accidentally shorted out a battery with his wedding ring, resulting in what is medically referred to as a trsumatic amputation of his ring finger.
If you remove the ground cable first, you can't short it out to ground, and nothing else can short to ground after you've done that.
Electricans wear plastic watches and no jewelry. Some of them use pricey beryllium copper tools, which cannot spark, or glass filled nylon, which is not as durable but simply doesn't conduct.
Make sure you are putting out safe and correct information pertaining to RV's! In an RV that has two battery systems, they both use the same chassis ground. So even removing the NEG terminal first does not guarantee 0 voltage potential. Depending on the model there are times when both banks are connected by a relay to allow charging of both banks by a single source (inverter charger or alternator). Make sure the engine is off (duh) AND the RV is unplugged from any AC source, and inverter/charger is off. Then remove all negatives from each battery bank. To be sure you have 0 voltage potential at the battery you are going to remove, always check with a voltmeter the voltage from that POS terminal to chassis. Should be 0 volts. Now you are safe!
I replaced my start batteries on my rv and toad with ANTI GRAVITY BATTERIES. They are LITHIUM an have double the power of yours they weight 19 lbs and are Perfect. I've used them for 4 years now , down to -24c and they are amazing. Yes they cost $850. US each, but they will last the next 25 years and maybe more. ABSOLUTELY WORTH THE MONEY, No terminal corrosion, no water,no maintenance, for literally ever. I switched my house batteries in 2013 with lithium and have not ever had a problem or concern and they still have full capacity. I part time 6 months a year, with full electric cooking and use 480watts solar to refill and most often by 11 am they are full and then heating water the rest of the day. CHEERS AND SAFE TRAVELS Steve h.
Izzy, Always remove the ground cable first then you don't have to worry about any of the 'hot' cables/wires shorting out on any grounded metal anywhere, BTW, going from a 'wet cell' to an AGM be sure to check your charger settings because that AGM may need different charger settings. Also, look into PowerPulse maintenance modules as then will help extend the life or your battery.
I was taught to remove the negative terminal first. I know when changing my house batteries, the instructions was to remove the positive first. These days I pay someone else to do it. I have been an Interstate battery guy for decades.
Thank you everyone for reminding people to remove the negative cable first.
My father and grandfather taught me basic car maintenance and always told me the right way to do something is the only way to do something.
Besides, they said, that doing something wrong could cause irreversible damage not only to the automobile but to your body as well.
Remember, you can always get another automobile but you only have one body, and your body has to last a lifetime
Peace.
You should always disconnect the negative first and you will never get a spark on the positive.
Nice battery review Izzy and MJ on the Odyssey. I went with Deka Ultimate maintenance free but not a AGM for the chassis, still 750 CCA at 0*F. My 4 6-volt house batteries, I'm going with Deka AGM Intimidator 190Ah batteries. Deka is a East Penn manufacturing US battery company. Also one recommendation always remove the negative battery cable first, this can prevent and arcing if the wrench would happen to touch a metal surface, also it's minimizes any sparks if there was any load on at the time the cables was removed.
Izzy…Izzy…love y’all videos, a lot of good stuff. Now it is a big No No to take off the positive first. Here is the reason, if you drop your wrench or ratchet and it crosses over to any part of the frame, instantly sparking, or full AMP draw, causing it to weld. Now, if this is a lead acid battery and there are fumes, you can have an explosion. When re-installing, positive first, negative last.
Thanks for clarifying
Wow Izzy, I am surprised that you didn't remove the negative terminal first, I say this because while you were removing the positive terminal first you could have been compromised in you being a conductive if had accidentally touched the ratcheting something metallic though keeping in mind that you done this twice before it's not so much the ratchet it's you getting zapped though being it said that zap might be small it's still can be unnerving if you never had a little jolt before. As for the extra battery take it with you if you have the storage in the event something could happen with the new one. Hey one never knows... Safe and Happy Travels to you and your family.
Release is the truth! A car splashed some watery concrete on the side of my car, and it literally took one spraying followed by one wiping to make it look like nothing happened.
I recently bought Release. I cleaned my trailer roof with it and it looks almost brand new. Trailer is 2 1/2 years old. Love it!
Release in the real deal
Release is a pretty toxic cleaner. The SDS (Safety Data Sheet) on their website indicates you should use protection. P280: Wear protective gloves/protective clothing/eye protection/face protection. You seem to not be concerned based on how you're applying it? Here''s more from product SDS on release website. ... Classification of the substance or mixture: Acute Toxicity. 4: Acute toxicity if swallowed, Category 4, H302 Eye Dam. 1: Serious eye damage, Category 1, H318 Skin Corr. 1A: Skin corrosion, Category 1A, H314 STOT SE 3: Respiratory tract toxicity, single exposure, Category 3, H335
Always remove the negative battery terminal first that way you avoid working with the wrench and any metal objects on the couch 4:18
We just upgraded our Stock Class B Mercedes Benz Chassis Starter Battery to an Antigravity 80ah Lithium Battery with 2x remotes for emergency starts, if needed. Installed it myself. Now we don't have to worry as much about getting stuck due to a drained battery. Great idea Izzy about keeping the old battery. I was gonna turn it in, now I'm gonna keep it and leave it on a battery tender. Thanks! Just a quick note: connect positive first then negative. DIsconnect negative first then positive.
Hi Izzy and MJ. Perfect timing because I just replaced my 2 Chassis batteries on my 2016 Class A diesel today. I checked out the Odyssey batteries. One thing I would like to mention is the Class A diesel takes a Group 31 battery and it looks like yours is a Group 65. It probably will not work in your new diesel. Have a great Summer and thanks for the videos.
Maintenance free, always love the sound of that, no brainer. Plus, the increased durability and reserve capacity, makes perfect sense to me.
Agree less work is better!!
Nice upgrade. But you probably won't be able to re-use on your next MH. Most all the diesels use dual Group 31 batteries.
I have an Odyssey AGM battery in my airplane. Works real good - lasts LOOONG time!
Hey Izzy - your battery upgrade video is very timely! We bought a new (used) RV last September and the battery was one thing I hadn't checked nor had the dealer on their initial inspection. I went right out to check it (even though it's still 102 here!) and sure enough it was almost out of water - yikes! So thank you for posting this upgrade and fortuitous reminder. Coincidently, we bought our rig because it has Liquid Springs on the rear and I didn't know about the electrical draw - so thanks for that tip as well!
Did you do the relearn on the computer when you changed the battery? Our 2013 F53 has a process for relearn fuel trim when the battery is disconnected or replaced. Check your owners manual.
Interstate MTP-65HD lead acid on mine F53 went seven years before I proactively replaced it. Could not get another one close by so I went with a Duracell from Battery Plus - local franchise business. I always proactively replace my batteries rather than wait for them to slow crank or go dead. Our van has a big AGM that just went dead without warning. The AAA battery guy recommended to replace the AGM every three years because they only last three to four years in a daily driver.
I've never had a AGM before. Even in our boat I used lead acid. I go five years on the lead acid in the car that sits in the garage and the motorhome's start and house batteries. Easy access so PM is not an issue.
Great video. Love the shirt too! Is that a new merch shirt coming??? 😊
So I got release and its great!!! Thanks for turning me on to it.
Izzy great job on the upgrade. I’m hiring you change my car battery! Lol! Flying you it to Vegas to change the battery from this heat wave. Lol! 120 today going up after fussy and cooling down by Friday. Great idea to put the Diehard back on when you go to sell Nelli! Great video!
Maintenance free Is Good.
Nice switch over job folks 👍
Thanks guys,. 👋🙂
Izzy, can you do a video on how to sanitize your water/tank?
We did one several years ago
@@EndlessRVing Can you give me the title. I have watched most of your videos and I searched the other day and I couldn’t find it. Thanks to both of you. Your channel is so helpful.
@@salawrence1 BEST WAY TO Sanitize Your RV Fresh Water System | For Under $5.00
th-cam.com/video/g7kPGl_aVlk/w-d-xo.html
I use AGMs from Walmart. Nationwide locations best no questions replacement warranty.
Hi. I am learning from your videos, very informative. MJ reminds of Sandy Steinbrook who I started watching recently.
Still subscribed, I noticed whenever you made a video on firearms I’d magically be unsubscribed. I like your take on preventative maintenance. Never want to be forced to buy a subpar battery for an inflated price in a pinch.
If your battery doesn’t have a handle and it’s tough to get a grip on I use a 17mm or so closed end wrench over the negative terminal. Then you’ve got a little handle
Great informative video. My next battery is going to be an AGM one.😮
Awesome! Great video! Thanks!
I’ve used odyssey for years
Got to love no maintenance !! Great upgrade I hated watering the battery !!
Totally agree
Hi Tom and Missy!
@@sherriweber7105 Hey Sherri !! Hope you are doing well.
@@Tom.and.Missy.Northam
Yes I’m doing fine! Thank you! Hope you are doing fine as well.
Izzy, Maybe I missed it but what is the camera over the top of your license plate? I use Odyssey on my motorcycle for many years now. They last about 10 years. Love them! I use a BatteryMINDer Model 128CEC2 on the RV Starter Battery that does all kids of good things for the battery, including desulfidating. It is Odyssey approved and has an "Odyssey" setting. Still have the original Ford 2017 battery. When it fails I will do what you did and get an Odyssey.
It’s a front plate cam. Records as we drive down the road
Sorry but I believe you should always remove the negative cable 1st.
Im gonna have to try the release cleaner👍🏻🇺🇲
Release works great
Always does
I have the odesy jell N amy Caddy, awesome half the size big power for my electronics overkill maybe..Not N my world..Live Love Well.
As mentioned before by many people who watched this…NEGATIVE cable comes off first. It is incase you have the socket or wrench on the positive cable and if you hit metal it will arc in your face and cause some serious problems. Always disconnect the negative first !!
Stay safe And Happy Rv’ing
If you touch metal while removing the negative it’s no big deal and once you removed the negative. It will not arc against the chassis
Endless RVing + Does Release cleaner have any Forever Chemicals? PFAS (Per- and polyfluorinated alkyl substances), also known as the Forever Chemicals, are a large chemical family of over 10,000 highly persistent chemicals that don't occur in nature.
Hello from Mom's basement, you clean a battery that you're getting rid of? Clean is good, right?
We are keeping the battery
❤❤❤😊😊😊😊
👍👍
Battery maintenance is not my favorite thing to do 😊
No battery is maintenance free. Check your terminals periodically as they can corrode.
👍🏻🇺🇲
Go wash U-R Hands& Armando Like Honeysays.
Why do you keep adding items to your RV , You'll never get that money back when you Sell.
Helps the economy
😂. No kidding. It's not an investment, it becomes a hobby. Like motorsports, you never get the cost back out of it. It's about the enjoyment it brings.
I gave this a thumbs down because of misinformation concerning the order to remove the battery cables. Always, ALWAYS remove the negative first. Removing the positive first can have disastrous results if you happen to get your wrench against anything that is ground. Major sparks will fly, potential damage to the wrench, possibility of welding the wrench between the positive and ground, and potential damage to anything connected to the chassis battery. When installing the new battery connect the positive first, then negative. Please update your video so that others will not make the same mistake.
Guy’ s I have unsubscribed. It is enough with TH-cam’s commercials. I don’t buy anything advertised by TH-camrs. Sorry just my way of cleaning up TH-cam.
Goodbye
@DinoLeon-10661t, do you perform your job for free? Do you think producing youtube videos constitutes work?