Great video! Pro tip from Ioniq 28 long time owner - don’t use recuperation at all at a motorway driving: this costs you a lot if energy! You drove on level 3 all the time - it’s not efficient this way. Use coasting (0 recuperation) as much as you can, then turn on and adjust the recuperation level with the levers based in the road conditions. Following this “rules” you can get most of the car 😉
While true, it's not @bjornnyland methodology for testing cars. We can get 400km out of our 38kWh model in spring and summer while commuting when we don't need AC. Wish our Oz model had a heat pump as winter consumption is a lot worse. It is a bit of a tardis. I'm amazed at what we can fit in the car. It even swallowed a front loading washing machine with ease.
I had the 2018 Ioniq 28kW and loved it. Kept it for 2 years until my Kona was ready. The Kona had a much better range but actually less space and was a less premium car. The Ioniq had some nicer features like a button to store 2 seat positions on the driver's door and split climate control which the 2020 Kona didn't have. For a car you want to use 95% around the city and the occasional cabin trip it's perfect. Well priced, more efficient than a Tesla and just does the job. And for people saying that charging at 60kW isn't fast it's a lot faster than charging a 100kWH battery at 125kW.
The chassis mounting holes for a tow bar are there. So technically it is possible and there companies are specialized in adding a hitch. I drive bikes and a small trailer, works fine. It is not possible the official way (dealers).
I honestly think Ioniq is one of the best EV's for the money right now. It was my previous car and thinking back after owning the E-tron i really had 0 issues with Ioniq while i have had several problems with the E-tron which costs over double the money with basicly almost the same range. Its a really good car and all the extra features you can buy is very cheap and by default it comes with stuff that even my E-Tron (that costs double !?!!) don't even have. I miss it sometimes 😆
2 years ago you made me buy the Ioniq and i am so happy with it. Drove it from 20.000 to 88.000 without any problems. Its a great car. Some tips for the Ioniq users. - set regen at lvl 0 and try to use as much coasting as possible. Putting energy in the car and back in the battery gives more losses. - Use only AC in winter for heating. The car will warm up a bit slower but without the HEAT button on, the car only uses the heatpump to warm up the interior. Thats way more efficient. The HEAT button is a normal (COP1) heater.
Your videos on the Ioniq made me buy one two years ago, and I thank you for your excellent reviews. The car behaves as you describe it. It has 48000 km and the available battery capacity has dropped from 26 to 24,3 kWh, that makes 6,5% degradation. Even that the range is quite limited, it still works well on long trips because of it's fast charging capabilities. I just love the car!😊
Your winter range videos of Ioniq 28kWh back in late 2016 made my mind up to buy one in January 2017. I still fondly remember the bit where you presented the 3 different versions, HEV, PHEV and BEV. And you pointing at the first two and saying "you don't want those" 😂 I've been driving Tesla Model S for 4 years now, but the Ioniq is a fantastic car, thanks a million, Bjørn 🙂
I’m about to buy a 2018 model with 55,000km. What’s your battery degradation rate like? Does fast charging really degrade the battery? Charge only to 80% for quicker charges on long trips??
My 28kWh has 75000 km approximately and still has 100% and no discernible degradation. Range is as good as new. I charge up generally at home but a weekly rapid charge, often twice in that day. 100% charge on home charger and 90% on rapid charger. Best car I have ever owned. Also have 64kWh Kona, but we both prefer the Ioniq!!
The classic Ioniq videos are always great fun and demonstrate how good this car really was. If I needed a second car besides my Kona, this would be it.
The classic Ioniq is a true gem. I had a 2018 (drove it from new to 115,000 km) until 4 months ago when i switched to an Ioniq 5. I can only dream about the low consumption and efficiency nowadays.
I just bought a December 2017 Ionic as a second car. Next to the 2014 Tesla Model S 85. My wife still always steals the Model S. But I don't mind, I'm perfectly happy in the Hyundai!
Hey! The Ioniq btw shows GPS speed in the navigation window of the main screen. If this one doesn‘t, a software update is highly overdue! As a long time Ioniq driver I know the feeling when percentage and range eveporate on the Autobahn once it goes below 30%, but by reducing the speed and cutting back the heating always made me reach home, or a charger. Thanks and please keep up your excellent videos!
Good to see the ioniq making a comeback! I also have a 2018 ioniq EV with 70k km on the clock and last time i checked i calculated it still had around 28Kwh so no noticable degredation yet. I made the final decision to buy this car earlier this year after watching the 1000km challenge video and the ioniq is a great EV to buy second hand. Even though it has a small battery it charges quick and has a very flat charging curve up to 80% and because its very efficient the range is usable enough to use it as your only car. Wish huyndai or other car manufacturers made a decent successor. An affordable midsized efficient hatchback. The ioniq 5 and 6 are way too big for me.
I totally agree with you! The Ioniq is still a great car and I will keep it, as long as there will be a real successor with a little more range, but the same efficiency... Hope one day, thus going to be available!
@@bjornnyland True, but for us it is better. On our busiest day we still have over 100km left when we get back late at night so the 28kwh would have probably necessitated a charge somewhere during the day. The vast majority of our charging is at home (off solar) so slow charging makes no difference. Regardless, both versions fantastic, feel so lucky to have got one before Hyundai stopped producing them. Bought it to last 10 years, but the more I see and read the more I think it will go longer if we want. Maybe solid state batteries will be cheap by then 🙂
Hei. Har en Ioniq , 2018 modell med 200 000 km kjørt og null problemer. Fantastisk bil fortsatt. Det var helt helt konge i sin tid.kan bli interessant med en degradasjon test 😊 jeg lader hjem med 6.9 kw på en Easee lader
simply an amazing car. and very very cheap to operate and maintain. I bought it mainly because of your videos nearly 2 years ago, never had any trouble with it and it now hit 106.000km on the odo. :)) It's degradation is around 6-8% and I've mainly DC fast charged it for the last 60.000km on my way from Munich to Austria. :))
Thank you for the review of older cars. It's always great to see the extreme fast evolution of EVs. The fast SOC-Drop was something which I experienced also with my first Kona EV. It costs me some nerves, on our first autobahn trip with the car in 2018😂... Its astonishing, if I compare the behavior of those "dinos" with our current ev6😅!
I used this car for foodora in Oslo and lillestrøm. The car was awesome....no matter what i asked it just worked. Winter grip was an issue but nothing a bag of salt and stones couldn't fix. I am now back in Canada and considering the same car again.
OMG. The OG of Turtle Mode 😅❤❤❤ Thanks Bjorn and all of the commentators especially Ioniq owners. Our 1 year old Tesla Model Y only has 8,700 kms and I’m hoping it’ll keep us motoring around for another 20 years+. With FSD Beta, I’m forever hopeful you’ll all have access to it soon as well. Lotsa love to all from Toronto ❤❤❤
Im about 10 weeks away from 100K Hasnt mossed beat except needed a wierd 12v battery so had to get adaptors. A bit flaky with early 50kw chargers but i try and get 100kw if i have the chance. have one or twice got 69kw charging...and tight bumhole that goes with driving it that empty. 120 winter range is 60 if your run 30degreee heating, 82mph uphill in the rain...dont think ive ever seen such a wide gap and is a testiment to how efficient this car CAN be.
Cool video. I've noticed you unplugged charger from the car first instead of unplugging from the electricity first as it's described in the manual. I guess it doesn't matter which way first? Keep up the great work.
Last month with my Ioniq classic. Charging at home with 31A in case need some speed. Usually the winter night charging is done with 20A. Famous car.
10 หลายเดือนก่อน +2
Enjoy your shows. We have had 2 media reports on Hyundai batteries needing replacement after warranty elapse. One was a hybid, both would have cost more than the car was worth. Hyundai has to do better with new tech and find out why these batteries went bad. I don't remember what the millage was, but I don't think it was extreme.
200k km and my Ioniq 28kwh replacement for the LEAF rocks in comparison. Much nastier behaviour than the LEAF when the battery gets low so I'm on the learning curve again. I love the charging speeds (when I make it to the charger. One 5km recovery to the charger and one roll down the hill to plug in at home in 1500km but I'm learning. These vids really help : ) Thanks Bjorn!
My Ioniq 28 kwh is 6 years old and has 101783 km on the odometer. It has a range of 222 km at 96% charged battery, at 20 degrees Celsius. There may be some degradation of the battery, but it is not very much.
I have a 2019 ioniq with 140,000km driven. I also have around 24kWh left in the main battery. I might add, I don’t own a home charger. Been charging at work, but I have mainly used fast chargers for the two years I had the car. When I bought it, it had 45,000 km driven, so I have driven around 100,000km in about two years, done a lot of fast charging. Doesn’t seem to be a big problem for the battery. Edit: I had to replace my AC Compressor for the AC / Heatpump. It stopped working as it should and sounded like an F-16 taking off. Other than that, it runs fine. It was under warranty.
Thx for your test and your love for older EVs! I bought my Ioniq (MJ 2018) early this year with 20K on the ODO after having a few other EVs. I like the low seating position, the lowest consumption of all cars I owned before, physical buttons and the overall "behaviour" of the car. It drives, brakes and handles simply good - no issues whatsoever. No high tech, but everything works fine. I changed the transmission oil lately because this might help getting a lot of km without problems. I tested the degradation twice - just as you tested it - and was able to get 26,17 kWh / 26,07 kWh out of the battery. I was a little disappointed because I thought I could get out a little more because I thought the car has initially 28 kWh of available energy? But you noted it has only 26 kWh initially available? So my car has no degradation at all or how should I interprete my results?
New Ioniqs all seem to have around 26 kWh (sometimes you read 26,3kWh) usable capacity. Even Aviloo works with that value for a new car. So I reckon you do not have any significant degradation yet...
My 2017 Ioniq is still going strong but I am considering trading it in for something with more range and features. So far considering the new redesigned model 3 or a Ioniq 5. Just feel bad trading in a car that has been so reliable.
Bjørn, Thanks for this classic Ionic test and battery degradation comparison to other cars. Hyundai did a great job with this car. I am curious, and a bit concerned, about the issues you are having with V4 supercharger posts. What has been your experience so far?
Similarly to how Björn did it. Start with a full (and preferably warm, around 15-20 celsius) battery, reset car trip and consumption info, start driving at a moderate and steady speed of 80-90 km/h until the car has close to no battery left. Then you can calculate the capacity by multiplying the consumtion by distance driven. For example: you get a consumption of 15 kWh/100 km and drove a distance of 150 km, with 2% of battery remaining. You multiply 15 kWh/100 km by 1,5 and divide by 0,98, giving a result of 22,96 kWh. The 1,5 here stands for 150 km and 0,98 for the amount of battery used. Ioniq had an usable capacity of 26 or 27 kWh as new depending on who you ask, there isn't really any concensus on that.@@werafonas
In Germany it is allowed to get 20A from one phase, while the other two has no power. So you can charge the Ioniq with 4.6kW without extra electrical parts. When you Check the power consumtion on the other two phases, you can charge even faster. The rule is the different between two Phases Never over 4.6kW. For example: So when phase 1 Consums 2kW and phase 2 consums 3kW, you can charge with 6.6kW on phase 3 because the different between 1 and 3 is 4.6kW. And the cable Must be thick enough. So the House does not burn down
Interesting to see the correlation between degradation and older cars with small batteries (whose owners generally charged to 100% to maximize what range they had) -- reinforces the wisdom of keeping charges to 80%. Will be interesting to see degradation scores once FePO₄ Iron Phosphate batteries become commonplace.
Need to find some "old" eGolf with the 35.8kWh battery that has a lot of km. You've already got 4 different 24kWh eGolfs tested :O Unfortunately I'm to far away and my 2020 model only just passed 35k on the odo. Also have no idea how the previous owner charged it for the first 32k.
If you have a VCDS, you can compare some values in HVBattery and OBC modules😉If, say, prev owner charged it exclusively on DC, it will be seen vividly. But i bet that is rare case.
Your videos about this car helped me buy it and I have loved it! So far driven mine +30k km and the only sad thing about range is how much juice the AC+hearing takes from the range in the deep winter. At -15c to -18c I was getting 18kWh/100km in Finland with heating around 25c. As you showed, it’s not a huge problem for a pragmatist as I just take extra safe stops at +50km range left and charge quite fast at 60kW to get back up to 80%. Reliability has been great too.
Hi Bjorn, why do you assume that the Ioniq has a 26kWh net capacity when new? According to your phone app, it seems that the usable capacity is 92.5%. If I calculate 26/0.925, the result is 28kWh gross. However, if I calculate 28kWh net capacity / 0.925, the result is 30.30kWh gross capacity, which is the actual gross capacity of the LG battery in the Ioniq. If we assume a 28kWh net capacity, the degradation is more evident. Thanks
Hi Bjørn, I was hoping I could bother you with a question. I am going to enter the secondhand market for a 28kWh Ioniq, and I was wondering if you could give me some pointers on how I can determine if the battery pack is in a good condition. From my understanding, if I were to check it with ODB I could look at the SOH (Needs to be 100%) and the Min/Max voltage of the cells should not have a large gap in it. Of do you have any other tips on what to look for?
overhere with the advent of EV's, heat pumps and whatnot....most people I know (me included) are all shifting to single phase at home. 3 phase is a mess to balance, unless you just subscribe the biggest power contracts (very expensive). It only loses for those EV's with massive batteries that can take AC 3 phase.
Also was my question, I have a 2018 Ioniq with 120k kms on it and was in the assumption it had 30.5 gross and 28 real usage when new instead of 26. Bit relieved since it actually has around 25 now.
2:44 You mention the classic Ioniq has support for the “tesla button”. My charger (a Juicebox Pro 32A) has a button like that on the Type 2 plug but it does nothing on my Ioniq 2017, but maybe it’s defective? Has anyone actually confirmed it works for this car?
I think it's best to draw analogies with water. Imagine your cable is a pipe. kw or kw/h is like liters per hour voltage is the diameter of the pipe current (measured in amps) is the speed at which the water (or electricity flows) multiply the speed of flow by the diameter (or volts * amps) and you get kw.
@@dgurevich1 I know electrical system, but the design is new to me because in my country we can get setup for 11kw 3phase and still be powering 7kw single phase , so may be they have extra transformer
Just don't buy one with a failed battery in Australia or Hyundai will basically charge you the same cost to change the battery as it costs to buy the entire car!
The red colour indicates the voltage range, so while it's possible to have red single-phase 400v+ plugs, the only place I ever see them is for 3-phase 230v (where the phase-phase voltage is 400v).
In the Netherlands we also have a lot of houses with only 1 phase. My house for example does have 1 phase 40 amps. Thats enough to charge the Ioniq at max speed. I use a Zappy with load balancing.
Great video! Pro tip from Ioniq 28 long time owner - don’t use recuperation at all at a motorway driving: this costs you a lot if energy! You drove on level 3 all the time - it’s not efficient this way. Use coasting (0 recuperation) as much as you can, then turn on and adjust the recuperation level with the levers based in the road conditions. Following this “rules” you can get most of the car 😉
While true, it's not @bjornnyland methodology for testing cars. We can get 400km out of our 38kWh model in spring and summer while commuting when we don't need AC. Wish our Oz model had a heat pump as winter consumption is a lot worse.
It is a bit of a tardis. I'm amazed at what we can fit in the car. It even swallowed a front loading washing machine with ease.
@@JanNovak-pg8oegood idea in flat areas. I live uphill. When I start from home I always have to go up or down a steep slope for ca 5 km.
validated on my ioniq 28 also ;)
When using cruise control it makes no difference…
I had the 2018 Ioniq 28kW and loved it. Kept it for 2 years until my Kona was ready. The Kona had a much better range but actually less space and was a less premium car. The Ioniq had some nicer features like a button to store 2 seat positions on the driver's door and split climate control which the 2020 Kona didn't have. For a car you want to use 95% around the city and the occasional cabin trip it's perfect. Well priced, more efficient than a Tesla and just does the job. And for people saying that charging at 60kW isn't fast it's a lot faster than charging a 100kWH battery at 125kW.
too bad ioniq doesn't have the option of a tow bar, at least for the bicycle rack
@@pavelblaha5243That is posible. For bicycle only
The chassis mounting holes for a tow bar are there. So technically it is possible and there companies are specialized in adding a hitch. I drive bikes and a small trailer, works fine. It is not possible the official way (dealers).
The car was ahead of the competition at the time.
How can you split the climate control? I can't do it in my 2017 Ioniq
I honestly think Ioniq is one of the best EV's for the money right now. It was my previous car and thinking back after owning the E-tron i really had 0 issues with Ioniq while i have had several problems with the E-tron which costs over double the money with basicly almost the same range. Its a really good car and all the extra features you can buy is very cheap and by default it comes with stuff that even my E-Tron (that costs double !?!!) don't even have. I miss it sometimes 😆
2 years ago you made me buy the Ioniq and i am so happy with it. Drove it from 20.000 to 88.000 without any problems. Its a great car.
Some tips for the Ioniq users.
- set regen at lvl 0 and try to use as much coasting as possible. Putting energy in the car and back in the battery gives more losses.
- Use only AC in winter for heating. The car will warm up a bit slower but without the HEAT button on, the car only uses the heatpump to warm up the interior. Thats way more efficient. The HEAT button is a normal (COP1) heater.
Your videos on the Ioniq made me buy one two years ago, and I thank you for your excellent reviews. The car behaves as you describe it. It has 48000 km and the available battery capacity has dropped from 26 to 24,3 kWh, that makes 6,5% degradation. Even that the range is quite limited, it still works well on long trips because of it's fast charging capabilities. I just love the car!😊
It can charge faster than my kids can p***.
"Your videos on the Ioniq made me buy one two years ago, and I thank you for your excellent reviews" -> same here :-)
Wow my 2019 ioniq still has more than 26 kWh available after 60 000 km
Wow man flash back, the mighty Tesla Bjorn in a 28kW iONIQ It brings back many memories of your early shows. Thanks
Your winter range videos of Ioniq 28kWh back in late 2016 made my mind up to buy one in January 2017. I still fondly remember the bit where you presented the 3 different versions, HEV, PHEV and BEV. And you pointing at the first two and saying "you don't want those" 😂 I've been driving Tesla Model S for 4 years now, but the Ioniq is a fantastic car, thanks a million, Bjørn 🙂
Thanks for helping me with this choice back in 2018, still drive my Ionic from 2016 with 150.000 km.
I’m about to buy a 2018 model with 55,000km.
What’s your battery degradation rate like?
Does fast charging really degrade the battery? Charge only to 80% for quicker charges on long trips??
My 28kWh has 75000 km approximately and still has 100% and no discernible degradation. Range is as good as new. I charge up generally at home but a weekly rapid charge, often twice in that day. 100% charge on home charger and 90% on rapid charger. Best car I have ever owned. Also have 64kWh Kona, but we both prefer the Ioniq!!
The classic Ioniq videos are always great fun and demonstrate how good this car really was. If I needed a second car besides my Kona, this would be it.
The classic Ioniq is a true gem. I had a 2018 (drove it from new to 115,000 km) until 4 months ago when i switched to an Ioniq 5.
I can only dream about the low consumption and efficiency nowadays.
I just bought a December 2017 Ionic as a second car. Next to the 2014 Tesla Model S 85. My wife still always steals the Model S. But I don't mind, I'm perfectly happy in the Hyundai!
Hey!
The Ioniq btw shows GPS speed in the navigation window of the main screen. If this one doesn‘t, a software update is highly overdue!
As a long time Ioniq driver I know the feeling when percentage and range eveporate on the Autobahn once it goes below 30%, but by reducing the speed and cutting back the heating always made me reach home, or a charger.
Thanks and please keep up your excellent videos!
I have driven this car 20K+ km's.
around 12.4 KwH/100, what a awesome thing!
Good to see the ioniq making a comeback! I also have a 2018 ioniq EV with 70k km on the clock and last time i checked i calculated it still had around 28Kwh so no noticable degredation yet. I made the final decision to buy this car earlier this year after watching the 1000km challenge video and the ioniq is a great EV to buy second hand. Even though it has a small battery it charges quick and has a very flat charging curve up to 80% and because its very efficient the range is usable enough to use it as your only car. Wish huyndai or other car manufacturers made a decent successor. An affordable midsized efficient hatchback. The ioniq 5 and 6 are way too big for me.
I totally agree with you!
The Ioniq is still a great car and I will keep it, as long as there will be a real successor with a little more range, but the same efficiency...
Hope one day, thus going to be available!
The ioniq classic is a very underrated car.if it had a 50kwh battery, it would have been totally awesome.
Too bad the 38 kWh facelift has so slow charging.
@@bjornnyland True, but for us it is better. On our busiest day we still have over 100km left when we get back late at night so the 28kwh would have probably necessitated a charge somewhere during the day. The vast majority of our charging is at home (off solar) so slow charging makes no difference. Regardless, both versions fantastic, feel so lucky to have got one before Hyundai stopped producing them. Bought it to last 10 years, but the more I see and read the more I think it will go longer if we want. Maybe solid state batteries will be cheap by then 🙂
My Ioniq is 4 and a half years old. I put 71000 km on it.
It is still a very good car!
Hei. Har en Ioniq , 2018 modell med 200 000 km kjørt og null problemer. Fantastisk bil fortsatt. Det var helt helt konge i sin tid.kan bli interessant med en degradasjon test 😊 jeg lader hjem med 6.9 kw på en Easee lader
simply an amazing car. and very very cheap to operate and maintain.
I bought it mainly because of your videos nearly 2 years ago, never had any trouble with it and it now hit 106.000km on the odo. :))
It's degradation is around 6-8% and I've mainly DC fast charged it for the last 60.000km on my way from Munich to Austria. :))
IONIQ ftw!
👍👋
Thank you for the review of older cars. It's always great to see the extreme fast evolution of EVs.
The fast SOC-Drop was something which I experienced also with my first Kona EV. It costs me some nerves, on our first autobahn trip with the car in 2018😂... Its astonishing, if I compare the behavior of those "dinos" with our current ev6😅!
nice video, thanks for sharing doc with all the results, much easier to navigate/compare
I used this car for foodora in Oslo and lillestrøm. The car was awesome....no matter what i asked it just worked. Winter grip was an issue but nothing a bag of salt and stones couldn't fix. I am now back in Canada and considering the same car again.
OMG. The OG of Turtle Mode 😅❤❤❤ Thanks Bjorn and all of the commentators especially Ioniq owners. Our 1 year old Tesla Model Y only has 8,700 kms and I’m hoping it’ll keep us motoring around for another 20 years+. With FSD Beta, I’m forever hopeful you’ll all have access to it soon as well. Lotsa love to all from Toronto ❤❤❤
Another great video! Thanks Bjorn! The classic Ioniq batteries were extremely well built! I wish my 2020 Kona battery was as good!
Im about 10 weeks away from 100K
Hasnt mossed beat except needed a wierd 12v battery so had to get adaptors.
A bit flaky with early 50kw chargers but i try and get 100kw if i have the chance. have one or twice got 69kw charging...and tight bumhole that goes with driving it that empty.
120 winter range is 60 if your run 30degreee heating, 82mph uphill in the rain...dont think ive ever seen such a wide gap and is a testiment to how efficient this car CAN be.
Cool video. I've noticed you unplugged charger from the car first instead of unplugging from the electricity first as it's described in the manual. I guess it doesn't matter which way first? Keep up the great work.
Last month with my Ioniq classic. Charging at home with 31A in case need some speed. Usually the winter night charging is done with 20A.
Famous car.
Enjoy your shows. We have had 2 media reports on Hyundai batteries needing replacement after warranty elapse. One was a hybid, both would have cost more than the car was worth. Hyundai has to do better with new tech and find out why these batteries went bad. I don't remember what the millage was, but I don't think it was extreme.
Björn, my 2020 eSoul 64kwh with 120.000km should be tested you as well 😅 - you give a lot of value to customers willing to buy used EVs
200k km and my Ioniq 28kwh replacement for the LEAF rocks in comparison. Much nastier behaviour than the LEAF when the battery gets low so I'm on the learning curve again. I love the charging speeds (when I make it to the charger. One 5km recovery to the charger and one roll down the hill to plug in at home in 1500km but I'm learning. These vids really help : ) Thanks Bjorn!
My Ioniq 28 kwh is 6 years old and has 101783 km on the odometer. It has a range of 222 km at 96% charged battery, at 20 degrees Celsius. There may be some degradation of the battery, but it is not very much.
I have a 2019 ioniq with 140,000km driven. I also have around 24kWh left in the main battery.
I might add, I don’t own a home charger. Been charging at work, but I have mainly used fast chargers for the two years I had the car.
When I bought it, it had 45,000 km driven, so I have driven around 100,000km in about two years, done a lot of fast charging. Doesn’t seem to be a big problem for the battery.
Edit: I had to replace my AC Compressor for the AC / Heatpump. It stopped working as it should and sounded like an F-16 taking off. Other than that, it runs fine. It was under warranty.
Thx for your test and your love for older EVs! I bought my Ioniq (MJ 2018) early this year with 20K on the ODO after having a few other EVs. I like the low seating position, the lowest consumption of all cars I owned before, physical buttons and the overall "behaviour" of the car. It drives, brakes and handles simply good - no issues whatsoever. No high tech, but everything works fine. I changed the transmission oil lately because this might help getting a lot of km without problems. I tested the degradation twice - just as you tested it - and was able to get 26,17 kWh / 26,07 kWh out of the battery. I was a little disappointed because I thought I could get out a little more because I thought the car has initially 28 kWh of available energy? But you noted it has only 26 kWh initially available? So my car has no degradation at all or how should I interprete my results?
All batteries will degrade, 26kWh out of a 5 year old 28kWh battery is very good!
New Ioniqs all seem to have around 26 kWh (sometimes you read 26,3kWh) usable capacity. Even Aviloo works with that value for a new car. So I reckon you do not have any significant degradation yet...
heating with heat pump only put airconditioning to "A/C" only, not to "heat". classic ioniq for the win 😊
My 2017 Ioniq is still going strong but I am considering trading it in for something with more range and features.
So far considering the new redesigned model 3 or a Ioniq 5.
Just feel bad trading in a car that has been so reliable.
Bjørn, Thanks for this classic Ionic test and battery degradation comparison to other cars. Hyundai did a great job with this car. I am curious, and a bit concerned, about the issues you are having with V4 supercharger posts. What has been your experience so far?
The results seem to be in line with the ones I got with our 2017 Ioniq with 130 000 km, as the capacity I calculated was 24,35 kWh.
How to proper calculate degradation? I have one with 177 000km.
Similarly to how Björn did it. Start with a full (and preferably warm, around 15-20 celsius) battery, reset car trip and consumption info, start driving at a moderate and steady speed of 80-90 km/h until the car has close to no battery left. Then you can calculate the capacity by multiplying the consumtion by distance driven. For example: you get a consumption of 15 kWh/100 km and drove a distance of 150 km, with 2% of battery remaining. You multiply 15 kWh/100 km by 1,5 and divide by 0,98, giving a result of 22,96 kWh. The 1,5 here stands for 150 km and 0,98 for the amount of battery used. Ioniq had an usable capacity of 26 or 27 kWh as new depending on who you ask, there isn't really any concensus on that.@@werafonas
Kiabjørn and Classic-Ioniq the best combination.
In Germany it is allowed to get 20A from one phase, while the other two has no power. So you can charge the Ioniq with 4.6kW without extra electrical parts. When you Check the power consumtion on the other two phases, you can charge even faster. The rule is the different between two Phases Never over 4.6kW. For example: So when phase 1 Consums 2kW and phase 2 consums 3kW, you can charge with 6.6kW on phase 3 because the different between 1 and 3 is 4.6kW. And the cable Must be thick enough. So the House does not burn down
You shared so much from the house! Will there be a house tour? :D
My GF ask me every day when she hear I am watching TB vidoes. "Are there any updates on the house?" The only TB videoes she watches.
I am very much interested in this wall-e trafomic device. Could you please provide a link where it can be purchased?
Me too
Interesting to see the correlation between degradation and older cars with small batteries (whose owners generally charged to 100% to maximize what range they had) -- reinforces the wisdom of keeping charges to 80%. Will be interesting to see degradation scores once FePO₄ Iron Phosphate batteries become commonplace.
Need to find some "old" eGolf with the 35.8kWh battery that has a lot of km. You've already got 4 different 24kWh eGolfs tested :O
Unfortunately I'm to far away and my 2020 model only just passed 35k on the odo. Also have no idea how the previous owner charged it for the first 32k.
If you have a VCDS, you can compare some values in HVBattery and OBC modules😉If, say, prev owner charged it exclusively on DC, it will be seen vividly. But i bet that is rare case.
My only fear with buying a used one is the reduction gear failing :/
Great video Bjorn!
Why the new kwh number is 26? Why not 28?
Did the car not come with the Ioniq Electric badging on the rear or was it removed?
My Ioniq 38kWh can only dream of 60kW charging! 😲
Ioniq Kinder egg! Only one Bjorn
Why does carscanner not show remaining kWh's? I love my 2017 Ioniq, great car.
Your videos about this car helped me buy it and I have loved it! So far driven mine +30k km and the only sad thing about range is how much juice the AC+hearing takes from the range in the deep winter. At -15c to -18c I was getting 18kWh/100km in Finland with heating around 25c. As you showed, it’s not a huge problem for a pragmatist as I just take extra safe stops at +50km range left and charge quite fast at 60kW to get back up to 80%. Reliability has been great too.
Same experience from Finland wih classic Ioniq :-)
Hi Bjorn, why do you assume that the Ioniq has a 26kWh net capacity when new? According to your phone app, it seems that the usable capacity is 92.5%. If I calculate 26/0.925, the result is 28kWh gross. However, if I calculate 28kWh net capacity / 0.925, the result is 30.30kWh gross capacity, which is the actual gross capacity of the LG battery in the Ioniq. If we assume a 28kWh net capacity, the degradation is more evident. Thanks
I don't assume. I have tested and found that it has 26 kWh. The SoC scale is not linear. Said this 9999 times in my videos.
@@bjornnyland so the real usable capacity is 86% not 92.5%?
Still a really good car 😃
Hi Bjørn, I was hoping I could bother you with a question. I am going to enter the secondhand market for a 28kWh Ioniq, and I was wondering if you could give me some pointers on how I can determine if the battery pack is in a good condition. From my understanding, if I were to check it with ODB I could look at the SOH (Needs to be 100%) and the Min/Max voltage of the cells should not have a large gap in it. Of do you have any other tips on what to look for?
“How many amps do you want?”
“More”
Frankenstain is one fase 32A 🙂
No, just 16 A.
hi! how about rust proofing and paint quality/thicknes?
Oh NO, Kinder Egg is now a Turtle!
overhere with the advent of EV's, heat pumps and whatnot....most people I know (me included) are all shifting to single phase at home. 3 phase is a mess to balance, unless you just subscribe the biggest power contracts (very expensive). It only loses for those EV's with massive batteries that can take AC 3 phase.
Have you had to modify the lamp in the charge port to fit V3 supercharger plugs? Or do you bend the lamp to fit the plug?
Look up that charger, easy, they are banned in Sweden, they are not approved because of issues with the electrical safety
I checked my SOH and noticed that if SOC is 100%, SOC BMS is only 92 % on my Ioniq 28 from 2018 with 75k km, was does that mean ?
8:38 mjøsen mjøsen mjøsen mjøsen mjøsen mjøsen
May I ask, why 26 kwh is the net capacity of a new Ioniq?
Because that's what you get.
Also was my question, I have a 2018 Ioniq with 120k kms on it and was in the assumption it had 30.5 gross and 28 real usage when new instead of 26. Bit relieved since it actually has around 25 now.
Were can I buy Wall e ?
2:44 You mention the classic Ioniq has support for the “tesla button”. My charger (a Juicebox Pro 32A) has a button like that on the Type 2 plug but it does nothing on my Ioniq 2017, but maybe it’s defective? Has anyone actually confirmed it works for this car?
No, the Metron cable has Tesla button.
Ah I misunderstood. Thanks for explaining. Love the videos!
What a cable mess in your garage 😁
Fortunately it's my garage and not yours...
16:21 this is... What?
so its not based on kw ? its based on Amp? i did not get the idea
I think it's best to draw analogies with water.
Imagine your cable is a pipe.
kw or kw/h is like liters per hour
voltage is the diameter of the pipe
current (measured in amps) is the speed at which the water (or electricity flows)
multiply the speed of flow by the diameter (or volts * amps) and you get kw.
@@dgurevich1 I know electrical system, but the design is new to me because in my country we can get setup for 11kw 3phase and still be powering 7kw single phase , so may be they have extra transformer
@@dgurevich1 in this pipe analogy is only valid for voltage(pressure) and speed (flow rate)
ioniq the best ev car
Just don't buy one with a failed battery in Australia or Hyundai will basically charge you the same cost to change the battery as it costs to buy the entire car!
❤❤❤
👍
👍👍👍
Red Cetec are trifase?
The red colour indicates the voltage range, so while it's possible to have red single-phase 400v+ plugs, the only place I ever see them is for 3-phase 230v (where the phase-phase voltage is 400v).
♥♥♥
I think the tests are not more objective, because you start with warm car and battery (garage temp).
No on the contrary, they got better because the starting parameters are the same for every car.
Man just get the 32A. Much better.
In the Netherlands 16a(x3) is almost for free and 32a(x3) is 1500 euro/year. Ioniq is filled up in a night at 16a. So 32a totally not worth it.
Nope. Already explained in the video why...
In the Netherlands we also have a lot of houses with only 1 phase. My house for example does have 1 phase 40 amps. Thats enough to charge the Ioniq at max speed. I use a Zappy with load balancing.
Googles Kinder-Egg