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@vasyapupken I went with the tool recommendation (1/8th"). Also checked Onlinetoolkit.co/chip-load-calculator It shows within range. Being air cooled, I go on the low end for speed. The real life test is decent cuts and that passes. Probably can optimize more.

Nice Video! On your whiteboard class your resistance values are in Kilo-ohms. Are you sure it's not milli-ohms or ohms ? The 10 Kilo-ohms seems extremely high for the internal resistance of the controller. Where did you purchase the resistor and what is the watt rating of the resistor? THX

@MrTaxque Thanks. I measured 10k, calculated the resistor needed, tested and adjusted for real world. I used 1/4W resistor. I=48V / 10k, P=VI, so it is <0.1W. Basic 1/4W resistor set is fine.

@@nateh7895 Only to positive. Connect VFD control signal GND directly to CNC Spindle Control GND wire.

@kristianvrum8979 That is caused by the pressurized air on the wrong side of the IFP in the hydraulic circuit. As you suggest, one possible fix is complete rebuild. This video shows how to remove the air and get functionality back without fully dismantling the post.

@AlexJoneses Good tips. I have actually done the big things and have vids on them. I replaced the Z Axis with linear rails, then got a 1.5KW spindle. The improvement is dramatic. I have experimented other with different mills and I will look at your other suggestions. Thanks for the suggestions.

@adventuresinenginerding ill check out your newer videos, I professionally work with these kinds of machines so feel free to ask anything. Seriously you can't go wrong with buying LMT ONsrud or Amana tools, they're the only way you're going to have a chance at removing any kind of chips, SpE tools really does suck. I've also had good success with speed tiger o flutes, but really in general you should just be using o flutes.

@adventuresinenginerding also pro tip to contour the outside of the park, in fusion 360 instead of doing a contour pass do and adaptive 3D clearing pass, however set the tool boundary to 0.1 in outside the part And it will do a sort of adaptive contouring around the park, which works way better than just straight up contouring it

@AlexJoneses yup. Gave up on SPE mainly because coating has Aluminum. Hot aluminum on hot aluminum = welding. Super cheap uncoated HQMaster single flute is decent. WEXWE 2 flute also good. Will check your recommendations. Thanks.

@@AlexJoneses I use FreeCAD and have tried adaptive outer cuts with success, but it requires some part design modification. May try Fusion. Lots to learn.

@Civictyper16 Yes, but I recall the laser outputs 0-5V and the VFD needed 0-10V. Dividing down was easier than trying to amp up the voltage. There are always different ways. I chose what seemed easiest.

​@@adventuresinenginerding Thank you for replying back. I'm still learning to wire up a VFD, and your video was very helpful. I looked through the manual and saw that you could pass a 5v signal. You just need to adjust the Analog Input Gain. I'll test next week and see if it works. If not then I'll go with your solution.

@@LurLemurllcorp That is specific to your VFD. If it does not have an external voltage feed, maybe you could open it and tap into the speed potentiometer connection? Good luck.

@@RandyWatson80 which one?

@@adventuresinenginerding your manual should show you the FN guide..one will be direction, dual CW or CCW

@yadavans4349 Short list is dust / chip collection setup and get Z axis limit switches working again with new mount. Also, have been making custom mounts for holding material. Vids coming.

@yadavans4349 I have not tried. It might work, but cuts would probably need to be very thin so very slow. Cooling could be an issue.

@TheCeezSteez This fixes the problem until you get air in the system again... Not a great answer, but you can minimize the chances of air by not lifting the bike by the post when it is down. The design is prone to this problem, but this fix is much less effort than a complete rebuild. I do explain the Stealth version differences at the end of the video. Good luck.

@ thank you for your quick response. Some trails have the bike stands that hold your bike from the seat post, so maybe that’s what could have caused the squishy on by dropper. I’ve been quick fixing it by venting it before every use but not sure how long that will last.

@citizen8609 If you mean the voltage divider from spindle control to 10V control on VFD Controller: From memory, the internal resistance of that 0-10V controller input was 10k ohm. So 48V / 10k = 4.8mA. P=VI so 48x0.0048=0.23W. There is actually more resistance in the circuit, so 1/4W resistors are fine.

Thank you very much. I was also wondering if you could copy that cheat sheet and paste it into the comments of that video. I can’t read all of the values FYI For some reason a lot of your videos comments are turned off. Not sure what happened but I’m sure other people would love your input.

@ElizabethNeedham-cn2xj Thanks, Glad to help.

@matthias3928 I have used the XYZ script in both Universal GCode Sender (UGS) and with the offline controller. Check the link in my video description to get the script. I modified it for hard coded parameters (offsets) so I use a separate script for each thickness of material (different Z offsets).

@@adventuresinenginerding thanks for the quick response. I will check with UGS. greetings from germany

@bimoverbohm6837 Glad it helped. Keep on riding!

@gizmo3379 Glad it helped you. This is why I post vids. Thanks for letting me know.

I watched. I like your oil bath idea. It stays pretty clean while cutting, though I am sure there is a messy cleanup. I think I heard "downcut bit". I did not see feeds and speeds info. I use an inexpensive 20 gallon compressor for air nozzle. I cut dry because the MDF spoilboard would be ruined by oil or other fluid. I have upgraded to a Linear Rail Z Axis and 1.5.kW spindle and aluminum cutting is greatly improved. These are in my more recent vids. Thanks for watching.

@@adventuresinenginerding I used the compress bit for the bathtub-pocket. For the aluminum cut I used the cheap „Ball-nose“ endmill from genmitsu. It worked the best so far.

@@adventuresinenginerding the speed was 600mm/min and the load was 0.2 mm Depth was 4mm I think.

I am in the process of upgrading the spindle now (new videos) to 1.5 kW VFD. I'll check out UGS wizard, thanks.

Pretty much my mantra - everything can be fixed and made better. I am in the process of upgrading the spindle now (new videos) to 1.5 kW VFD. Thanks for watching.

I put mine on an older bike and it still works. Definitely better options available, but for those who have got one this helps people get more life out of them without spending money. Thanks for watching.

Agreed. I plan to upgrade the spindle. My feeling was that without rigidity, more power still would not make clean cuts. Or I might just get a new CNC with all linear rails...

@earlelliot4639 Glad it helped. Super secret!

@bobcosterton6430 Glad it helped you. I do cover bleeding the button circuit at 10:15 and it being a separate bleed, but it is a bit tedious. To keep it from getting air in the dropper portion, try not to lift the bike by the seat. That can create low pressure in the fluid side allowing higher pressure air to get past the IFP and cause the squishy post again.

@@adventuresinenginerding You're description was excellent and complete. I just couldn't move my seat after the bleed because the speed adjustment was moved to slow. Increasing the speed made it work. And I am trying to not lift the bike by the seat! Sometimes hard to do / resist! Thanks again and cheers!

The button actuator is a separate hydraulic system. You have to bleed that separately after doing the air removal in the main shock. This is shown in the video at 10:15. Push fluid back and forth until no bubbles come out either end. Check for leaks when you push the button. You probably still have air in that part, but it is the easier side to bleed. Once you are done bleeding, you may need to tighten the button adjuster to get it to actuate more easily. Good luck.

@@adventuresinenginerdingI'll try that. Thank you for your answer!

The actuator is a separate hydraulic system. It must be bled separately. Make sure the adjuster on the button is loosened all the way, bleed the poppet, hose, & button actuator thoroughly. There is a bleed port on the post next to the hose and one on the actuator button. Push fluid back and forth until no bubbles. Then you'll likely have to tighten the adjuster some to make the actuator work properly. Good luck.

Changing the Z Axis to linear rails was a game changer (another video). Power without rigidity is useless. A new spindle is next. Thanks.

@@adventuresinenginerding Usually the vibration of an inexpensive aluminum machine is hard to control. After awhile, it can deform hole sizes , adding more fuel to the fire. It's like chasing a fly around a room .

@MickHealey Thanks. A new spindle is next. I'll probably go for an 800W VFD. Rigidity really helped with clean cuts despite low power. I posted converter plate file on Thingiverse, see vid description. Good luck.

@davers1060 I actually found a lot of flex in the Z Axis. I replaced it in a subsequent video and got much improved results. A new spindle is next. Thanks.

@arbjful Upgading the Z axis greatly improved it (another vid). There was a lit of flex there. Now I am using a cheap 1 flute with pretty good results. 300mm/min, 0.3mm . Slow, but I can wait.

@arbjful Also, I had the offline controller attached while using UGS via USB so there was a contention issue. Only one at a time! Also separated the motor & spindle wires. Good suggestions, thanks.

Thanks.

RATTMMOTOR ZBX80 100mm

Wow I got it in 1 day. Now I have so many more questions. What type of alloy did you use? Do you have a .dxf of the pattern for the adapter plate? I have a friend with an industrial machine that will do the cutting for me. Can you share the pattern? I'm really looking forward to this project. TIA Derek

@@Gemitaur I added the FreeCAD file to Thingiverse. Please see video comments for link. 6061 Aluminum, 1/8" x 4" x 12". Good luck with your upgrade.

@JohnColgan I bent them for more clearance and Y roller coverage in my Z Axis video.

I replaced it with a Modell (Mafell) FM1000 with Quick Change System. Really nice when you have a program with 5 tool changes 😊

Agreed . The machine comes with the mount for a dewalt router witch i use the stock spindles will get you no where besides terrible cycle time and a headache

@ydeardorff Have you measured flex there? You could add some angle stock to stiffen them up on the existing mount points if that is an issue.

@slotcartires a more powerful spindle is on the todo list. Thanks.

@Cybernetic_Systems I considered reversing the mount, but I took the simplest approach. Definitely some drawbacks there. I am not clear on what you mean about the rigid compression coupler. Can you describe what you mean? Thanks.

@@adventuresinenginerding fair enough. The silver and red coupler that came with the original z axis is a flexible coupler. They are frequently called a spider or jaw coupler due to their look. They are a 3 piece design and are very good at dealing with slight alignment issues. The other type that I like are double slit couplers.

@Cybernetic_Systems Ahhh, the shaft coupler. I see your point. Thanks. I will check if I can swap them. Seems like I remember some problem that caused me to use the new one, but will replace if I can't use the OEM.

@incubatork I will check the wire loom chain differences on the 6050. So far no visible problems, but not a lot of use yet. Thanks.

Incorrect design by Sainsmart on all the 4030v1 machines. They altered it on the 4030v2 but attached the chain backwards, the pop open clips are at the back of the chain, they forgot to rotate it correctly.