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Thanks to your video I have fixed my Reverb. I put too much oil pressure(during bleeding procedure) in the line and valve was permanently open... Thank you!

This is what makes TH-cam phenomenal! Thank you for this video. This just helped me turn a free pair of broken snowshoes into a free pair of working snowshoes. MSR is great and you helped me save this gear. Thank you!

I can cut aluminum fairly well. I also have a video about it. What compressor do you use for the cooling ?

Definitely working. Thanks soo much! Hello from Czech Republic 😁

Thanks for this. I just ordered the 100mm Rattmmotor linear rail from Amazon, along with the 700w Sainsmart 65mm spindle. BTW, UGS has a setup wizard (under the Machine tab) that does all the calculations for calibrating the Z-axis with the new ball screw.

Finally i found a guy like me, who s never happy with how most products are designed. So we just make everything better 😂 i bought the same z axis on aliexpress and also upgrade my crappy chinese cnc machine. Nice!!

Omg what a great video and what a shtty dropper to put on a santa cruz hightower. Have the same problem with my 6mo steath. Swapping it out with a tranx. Have been running tranx on my 6yr Norco sight and it's never had an issue, works as well 6yrs later as day 1. Never liked rock shox products and the dropper is the perfect example. Thank you for the informative video, convincing us to ditch the RS dropper.

The spindle on these units seems pretty weak. Even after the upgrade, it sounds like a bad cut. There's a girl who reviewed several Genmitsu prouters with the stock spindle and the mikita trim router. The difference is dramatic.

Need a better microphone.

Perfect Video. It worked very well. Thanks and greetz from Cologne🤙

Just throwin in my 2 cents. Great video. The path to set up the these features says to use the BaseApp → Preferences → Mod → CAM. As shown in the video it is actually the BaseApp → Preferences → Mod → Path. Tried three times before noticing the difference in the video compared to the wiki. 🙄Thanks.

Excellent video! This worked really well for me. Took my squish from 10 mm down to 2 mm. We will see if that lasts. Definitely didn't want to throw out an otherwise good piece of gear! Newer Reverbs have a vent tool to fulfill this purpose. Mine is a Stealth and I did it without any special tools. Made a fluid measuring device of small tube to suck out extra fluid with its length based on feeling down to the "shelf" level at the bottom of the poppet valve. Note: after the procedure my dropper wouldn't go down at all until I opened the post speed adjustment up from slowest. Worked right away, although I did the remote bleed twice and was ready to buy a new dropper post until I figured this out. Can't remember if you mentioned it in the video. Thanks again! 🙂

Hi, i've done every steps and everything went good. No more squishing, but now my dropper doesn't go down at all. Do you know what could have cause that et any clue to fix that? Thank you!

Hi good video i have a problem with the Rockshox reverb and i Did the same like a video but now a press the rock shock bottom and the reverb don’t go down i press down very hard but don’t go down

We summited Whitney on the 3rd as part of a four-day backpacking trip from Cottonwood Pass Trailhead to Whitney Portal. The snow was record breaking and phenomenal.

Thanks for all the great early season tips!

A 2.2K Watt spindle is close to a minimum for metal. A 400W is not even a dermal.

I upgraded to the 900W DeWalt router instead of the default 300W motor, but never considered stiffening the Z axis. You have done a very nice upgrade, and great video. Thank you for sharing. I think I will do the same. Liked and subscribed.

Working it too hard. Feed rate and depth expectations are way too high for a hobby machine. A 400W spindle is going to be a lot more limited than a conventional trim router regardless what end mill you use. To get a good finish at those speeds, you need more hp (specifically torque) to cut and move chips efficiently, or a slower feed rate to give the stock spindle more time to do so. Power = torque * speed. 10-12K rpm is good speed, but a 400W spindle is only 0.3-0.4nm, whereas a 1000W spindle or trim router provides more than twice as much torque at the same speed. If you want better results, upgrade the spindle or drop to 10ipm and 1/16" depth per pass and start there. Work your way up with different bits. It's slower, but again, it's a hobby machine. Try Easel instead. All in one software. Can be used free with limited features. I use the Pro version. Well worth the $. Never had any problems with it or the machine. They have presets for most desktop machines (including this one) to help eliminate the guesswork. If you push anything beyond its limit, expect damage and failures.

There looks to be a lot of flex in the spindle motor shaft. From experience with those motors I would also think that the chuck is offset so your cutters aren't running true. Keep it up. I would suggest a spindle motor where the collet is integral giving a thicker output shaft with heftier bearings. A palm router or ideally a spindle motor.

The end mill doesn’t seem to be cutting, I think 2 flute end mill, with coolant will help improve matters. It’s probably not cutting fast enough, that’s why it gets stuck. Is the end mill carbide and of good quality? As for the program freezing. Run the control wires separately from the motor lines, especially the spindle power. It’s customary to power the control card from a separate power supply other than the motor power supplies

Just found your channel and Subscribed. Very nice work

Which rattmmotor z axis linear rail kit did you buy?

Thanks, very informative.

Thank for this. And a big +1 thank you to all the FreeCAD developers.

nice to see people try with small desktop machine as it shows what can be done I would say your stepper motors are stalling and probably causing an out of sync issue Try using a 6mm 2 flute cutter because the cutter is gumming up quicker on a 3 flute, Also so use some lube like WD40 , personally im not fond of using it, because it is a pain to clean up everything afterwards so I use proper soluble cutting fluid. see how you get on and let us know.

Your dust guards will get hit by X carriage unless you adjust limit switches

throw away that spindle, they honestly suck, get something like a Makita router or a 1.5kw spindle and I guarantee that you will get much better results

I'd like to upgrade the vertical brackets on each side of the x carriage. Best options for this?

Great video, I’m working my way through your CNC videos as I love to see other folks solutions. I really need to get an air compressor for my air blast system. I was wondering how to hook it up and the adapter you showed was the missing piece of the puzzle. 🖖

Upgrade from that wonky cheap spindle to a Jainken spindle. Better and much more stable.

Great video! My only suggestion would be to abandon the backwards mounting solution that the OEM used. You are putting all the forces through a really small area. Check out the mounting solution I used on my 3030 system using 15mm blocks. Then only the spindle itself is on the moving Z axis and the rest of the system is more rigid. Basically instead of just the spindle weight on the moving carriage, you’ve got all the weight of the entire z axis transferred through the moving carriage. You also need to throw away the rigid compression coupler, it will cause damage overtime to your motor and ball screw bearings. The flexible coupler that the OEM supplied is there for a reason.

Watching you fit the airline in the roll-chain I thought you had the roll-chain connecter wrong, looking at other videos of this model they are all the same, seems to be a design error. A roll-chain is not supposed to slide, though often called dragchain, its supposed to roll out along the direction of travel, not be dragged along the top of the X rail as it will wear through. The fixed end should be at the post end like you have it but then along the top of the X axis then curl up and back over itself to the moving part, on the 6050 its correct, on almost all the 4030's its not. You have given me some good ideas and food for thought with your mods, thanks for sharing.

Any particular reason why you did not allow UGC to calculate and adjust the Z axis perfectly? It comes with a setup wizard to do just that and works perfectly, I did mine with a DTI gauge as a measure, though not as precise it work well with just a ruler too, worth doing the X and Y axis too as they are not perfect from the factory, that's why there is often a slight difference in what you tell it to cut and what it actually cuts. Its posible to get it down to the though.

I have the exact same CNC machine. I really enjoyed your video. I have a lot to learn about CNC and I appreciated the steps you documented for your process. Thanks for posting!

Would you share a link to the new z axis assembly you used?

This was great information! I have some Italian Weber 44s that have Lord knows how much crud in those passages. I figured there had to be a way to drill, clean, and plug passages back and this video was helpful in teaching that. Thanks!

I bought one of the ANNOYTOOLS CNC Aluminum Z Axis Spindle Motor Mount 85mm kit from Amazon so I could use my Makita RT0701C compact router instead of a spindle on my 3018 prover. But I haven't tried aluminum yet. Disadvantage is no automatic speed control. Advantage is way more power 1.25 HP = 932 watts.

Why do you have two end stops on the Z axis?

Do you have a link to the upgraded z axis

Cut the shank off shorter on the end mill or chuck it up more with something will help some it all adds up a little 👍🇺🇸the little spindle sticks out so far.

Check out ED3D creation he cuts alum. On his TH-cam Chanel he beef up his 4030 good ideas . I got one ordered to 👍👍

Good job that’s funny thanks for sharing 👍🇺🇸

Magneting fields between cables, start problems.

Hi,,,Trye to change electric wiering, my pal had the same problem, he shange wiering and it got better. It was problem with magneting issius. ( i´m from sweden , sorry with my english)

Is this the 100mm from rattmottor?

It aint bad

Thanks for making the video. It would be great to change up the direction of the drawing to have the saddle mount up and the remote link on the bottom. Plus move the curved lines that represent the saddle mount bracket to the proper end ( it looks like the saddle mount is on the remote linkage side). Finally, if the drawing from the SRAM manual was used it would be more clear. Call me anal.

So much trouble these posts, quicker and easier for me to buy a better lightly used 2nd hand post that doesn’t require maintenance every 5 seconds.

Wow, ... all in an incredible beautiful landscape