Great Video!!! I have an sq lab 612 Ergowave Active in transit to me. This video is very informative and will be useful for installing mine on my bike. Thank You!!!
George I'd love to know how you in particular measure the saddle angle on the sqlabs saddles, I'm currently running the 60x non active as per your last recommendation.
Great video I have read many reviews and a number of people said with the flat part of the saddle level it made them feel like they were getting pushed forward and putting more pressure on their hands. Is this normal. If I decide to purchase one can I get one from you the 612 non carbon.
Hello Gary thanks for watching! I set all 612 Ergowave saddles flat. I don’t know what these reviews are talking about. The only thing I can think of is the saddle is not positioned right and riders are trying to ride to rearward on the saddle on the ramped part. But I wouldn’t believe those reviews I think they are full of it. Yes you definitely can buy SQ Lab saddles from me. I am one of very few shops that even know these saddles exist 😂
Thank you for your great videos. Some remarks about taking dimensions: saddles can have different lenght (standard around 275mm but many "short nose" are around 250mm) so measuring from nose to stem is not really reliable. Same about saddle height, because on SQLab's saddles you sat on the back, so i assume saddle height must not be measured on the front flat part.
I appreciate your comment about saddle lengths. This video made the assumption of replacing a standard length saddle with another standard length saddle. In this video the customer was doing a demo on a 612 standard and he had purchased a 612 standard which I was replacing in the video. As a norm I don’t sell or recommend short nose saddles. Personally when I’ve ridden them I can’t stand them so I don’t recommend them. Lastly, saddle height an SQ Lab is measured in the center of the saddle - that’s where you sit. You don’t sit on the back but sure you can slide forward and sit on the nose. Furthermore, it doesn’t matter where exactly you measure anything on the bike. As long as you measure it exactly in the same place when removing and reinstalling a saddle. Measure things at a point on the bike and component where it makes sense to you and is repeatable that’s all that really matters. Here’s an example - some people measure saddle height from the center of the bottom bracket, some people measure from the center of the pedal spindle and others measure from the end of the crankarm - as long as you know what you measured and annotated it as such it will work for you. Thanks for watching.
Great video! I’m struggling with setback because I came from a shorter nose saddle. Do you have any suggestions??? My setback is 5.9cm with the slr boost. I’m trying it the 612 active thank you:)
@@Zwiftsushi depending on your height and frame size it might be ok. Most people fit in the 6-8cm range. How much more do you need? A long time ago FSA had a 35mm setback seatpost but depends on the bike you ride whether it has proprietary post.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad oh sorry I meant I’m having trouble figure out where to put the sq lab saddle to match where my old one was in space where I was seated. I’m 5’6
@@Zwiftsushi I guess I am still confused. But I can’t help you from afar. It’s just trial and error. Don’t overthink it. People get obsessed about Bike Fit. It isn’t that important! Your body is an amazing machine it will adjust to anything within a few rides. Please don’t overthink it.
This saddle was decent when I got it, now I can’t decide if I like it downward or upward and I’m having discomfort on my sit bones. It’s at about 2 degrees up (based off the front 1/2 of the saddle). I just catch myself sliding down off the shelf. One complaint about this saddle, is your not really locked in. Yeah, there is relieve down there, but I’m still trying to get it right.
Many riders use the same saddle for road and MTB. If I were ever to MTB I would use the same saddle for both bikes. However, I’ve sold quite a few of the MTB specific saddle as well. Thanks for watching please consider subscribing Cheers!
Thanks for watching. You just put it level. That’s the least specific thing you do when installing a saddle. You just eye it. The next step that’s not in this video is the customer gets on the bike on the fitting stand and then we make adjustments. Lastly, the customer rides the bike outside and we make final adjustments. Please subscribe
It cracks me up that people obsess about how to level a saddle. It’s irrelevant. The saddle is placed where the rider is most comfortable- that’s it it’s not that complicated please don’t over think it. 🥰🥰🥰
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad As my SQLABS saddle has 3 steps ,it's not obvious where to level from ,as regards to not over thinking it ,you can get perineal nerve damage on a comfortable saddle due to position . I've since got the info from SQLabs thanks .
@@kevindean9613 you’re welcome! I contend it’s not that important as you think it is. It’s fairly easy to dial in the saddle - you can just eye it and adjust as needed. Process of elimination it’s obvious you can’t us the back of the saddle since it’s so high compared to the rest of the saddle. You just look where you actually will sit and make an effort to make it level. You are over thinking it and of course if the saddle isn’t positioned properly it will cause discomfort, pain or whatever. BUT that has nothing to do with the saddle being level. After 20 years of fitting and thousands of bike fits, saddles DON’T have to be exactly level for a rider to be comfortable, efficient and powerful. THAT was the point I was trying to convey to you. Please subscribe for more of my no nonsense advice.
What about levelling the saddle using a digital level? And doesn't their system use an elastomer in the rear of the saddle which can be changed based on the weight of the rider?
Hello Mark thank you for your comment. Saddles should be flat, no tilt whatsoever. Over 20 years of doing bike fits and nearly 10 years of using SQ Lab saddles I have a very good feel for placing it flat. However, when not as experienced it definitely wouldn’t hurt to use a level. As a home mechanic you won’t be doing thousands of saddle installs so it may take time to develop the eye for it. There are times I’m doing 5-10 saddle installs for a rider during a bike fit so yeah I’ve done A LOT of saddles 😂 Eventually you won’t need a level. Also this particular saddle has an unusually high back end and a pronounced drop to the nose. It’s difficult to put a level on it. What you are describing is an active saddle. This is not an active saddle. I don’t sell active saddles unless someone specifically asks for them because the principle of having a saddle that moves under you is counter to good power production. I don’t understand why anyone would want a saddle that wiggles underneath you. Active saddles have 3 elastomers white, grey and black and yes their design uses weight as a criteria. Thank You for your comment please subscribe 🙂
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad The elastomers are exactly what I’m talking about it’s one of the things I liked about it when I watched the video on their website. I’m not a super aggressive cyclist or a racer, so in terms of a small power loss I don’t care about it so much so if the seat moves a little bit and I had no issues I’d be willing to try it. As for how to measure it with a level I have a large flat piece of plastic that’s quite a lot larger than the saddle, I lay it on top of the saddle and it gives me a flat, even surface to work with. I have a precision digital level that I use to measure it, and even if I did 1000 saddle installations I’m an engineer so I will always check it no matter what my eyes tell me. Habe a good weekend
@@markfalkingham590 it’s not even about power loss I just don’t want a saddle moving underneath me. I give the customer the option they can demo both and decide. They usually come back for the non-active version. It’s like Speedplay pedals why does someone need 15-20 degrees of float? They don’t! I ride fixed cleats with no float and move many riders away from float and they are much happier. So no wiggly saddles and no float in the pedals. Regarding the “how to” measure saddle tilt - I know all the hacks. I do it if the customer specifically asks for it but as you said “I’m an engineer…” so you have to do it 😂 People make such a big stink about millimeters and degrees in bike fits but really it’s not that complicated and not that scientific. People obsess about the minutia. Cycling is a sport of passion not gear ratios and gear inches etc Have a great weekend as well? What are your ride plans?
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad I am recovering from an injury that occurred at the end of October, I slightly tore a quadracep during a hard session of marathon training so my riding is on my indoor trainer currently. That being said I’m up to about 200km per week indoors so hopefully I’ll be back on the bike and in running shoes soon. I run Ultegra clipless with yellow cleats so I have a hair bit of float but not too much. I don’t disagree with you about the saddle rocking but I find it interesting.
In terms of carbon seat-post mount compatibility you should mention that crawl based pinching ones are not suitable at all. They should have quite a long and flat interface groove to the rails.
Hey again George I am still working on the saddle issue and I’m still leaning in the SQLAB direction (612) and I wanted to ask an additional question, and this may come down to personal preference would you recommend the standard saddle with the steel rails or would you recommend the carbon saddle? Thanks again
Hello Mark Thank You for your comment. As the owner of a high-end boutique bike shop I like to put the high-end items on my bike. It helps keep my inventory costs down and shows a customer that I really ride the product I am recommending to them. I like the carbon rail saddles for myself and it suits my business needs. However, if budget is a consideration then the S-rail saddle is perfect and exactly the same as the carbon rail. Additionally, you won’t have to hunt around for a carbon specific saddle clamp for your seatpost. Personally I think too much has been made about the purported comfort of carbon bits on your bike - tire choice and tire pressure does A LOT more to create vibration dampening in your bike. The choice is yours either saddle will feel great to your bum. Thank You for watching!
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Thanks George, it’s not budget it’s more what’s necessary as I’m not familiar with this family of saddles. My bile takes either or saddle rails (Cervelo S5 circa 2016) I’ll take your comments and add that to my decision making process
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Absolutely, I’ve watched a lot of your videos, you remind me of the guy that owns the shop near Chicago where I bought my Cervelo. I haven’t found any local bike shops or owners here in Germany that are like him / you
@@markfalkingham590 Thank You for the compliment! In what way do I remind you of your Chicago bike shop owner? What are you looking for in a shop owner in Germany?
Hello Victor! Thank You so much for your comment. I don’t measure saddle tilt because the saddle should be flat. There is never a reason to have the saddle other than flat. Hence, saddle tilt is not a measurement. I see people tilt their saddles often but when I do their bike fit I level their saddle and start from a neutral position and then they realize they were compensating for something else that was wrong and the saddle should have been level the entire time. So to recap there are 3 essential measurements 1. Saddle Height 2. Saddle Setback from the Bottom Bracket 3. Reach - 3A- saddle tip to steerer tube 3B - Saddle Tip to Tip of brake hood. One more additional measurement not applicable in this instance since we were just changing a saddle. If you are changing stems or moving headset spacers around then you must measure 4. Bar height from center of front axle to center of handlebar Thank You for watching please subscribe.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Well when you are trying to be accurate to 0.1 mm I just thought that maybe you would also want to be sure that the tilt is the same as before even if that tilt is 0° which I doubt you can eyeball to 0.1° accuracy. So if the saddles tilt is ever so slightly off from before, then all the other measurements will be off as well. Thank you again for sharing your insights on the SQ Labs saddles. It was a contributing factor to my ordering it.
Hello Lamont! Thank you for taking the time to post a comment. I personally own the 612R. I have it on my Bianchi XR4 rim brake race bike. I wanted a really light saddle but didn't want to stray away from the comfort I get from my SQ Lab saddles. I purchased the 612R and I have mixed feelings about it. I love the shape and the comfort of the saddle but I miss the longer nose. If you are not aware the nose is a bit shorter on it. I tend to slide up and back on my saddle depending on the situation like closing a gap when I've been dropped from a group or when climbing a 25% grade. This sounds like a great video to make comparing the standard and the short nose saddles! Let me know if you have any further questions.
Hello Lamont! I made the comparison video of the 612R and the 612 you can find it here let me know if you have any further questions. Comment on the new video it took me a LONG time to find this comment to respond to you lol! th-cam.com/video/Zgpa3Rzw-SU/w-d-xo.html
I’m surprised you just “eyeball” the saddle tip setback from the bb (in the video example 8 cm), rather than drop a plumb bob from the tip of the saddle down past the bb and measure that way. Wouldn’t that be more accurate? Enjoyed the video. I’ve been doing the same measurements, but was missing the saddle tip to brake hood tip measurement, so I’ll add that the next time I change saddles on one of my bikes. Thanks.
DISCLAIMER: the following are comments made to anyone clicking on to this video and not directed towards you OldCyclist except the intro 😂 Thank you for watching! I have two or three plum bobs that are all gathering dust. 😊 I will be the devils advocate - What is this insistent need for accuracy? What is accurate? Who deems it so? What are you accurately measuring with the plumb on the tip of the saddle? Does it even matter? I get the same questions about why I’m not using a spirit level to ensure the saddle is level. Who said the saddle had to be level? Who deemed it so? Another example is when I do a bike fit I do not use a plumbob for knee over pedal spindle (KOPS) another archaic and irrelevant measurement to how the bike rider rides his bike over a six hour training ride. These things that people obsess about are pointless exercises when what matters most important that the rider is comfortable, efficient and powerful. So you put the saddle on you get it close and then you put the rider on the bike on the trainer make adjustments to saddle height, fore and aft and tilt, get it close and then get the rider to ride the bike outside for a couple of days or weeks and have them come back for a follow up fitting. I hope this helps everyone that clicks on this video discussion.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad I guess you just have more experience looking straight down to gauge setback. I find that if I were to do it that way I could easily be off a cm or 2. On another note I used to ride with you back in the day on some doubles (Death Valley, LA Grand Tour, etc). I came across your channel a month ago and was pleased that you are still going strong. I am still riding, but limit myself to centuries now. Enjoy your videos and will continue to watch and learn. Thanks.
@@oldcyclist1838 ha ha I call it having a “laser eye” 😂 i’ve been doing bike fits for over 20 years now I have a very good sense of where things are supposed to be. You can imagine how many thousands of bike fits I’ve done. I also get buy-in from the fitting client every step of the fitting process with feedback and confirmation of how I took the measurement and I have them take the same measurement with whatever device I’m using. That way, when they are on their own, or travel, or a bike mechanic inadvertently changes something on their fit, they know how to get it back to where I have set it. I see you are not using your birth name on TH-cam. If you’d like to remain anonymous you can send me an email at revcycling@gmail.com then I will know who you are, and when we used to ride together. Alternatively, you can also share your stories here on TH-cam with me. Thanks for watching you please consider subscribing
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad you may remember me: Marc Patton. I did a lot of Chris’ and Deb’s Doubles. I remember You riding a lot of those Doubles on a Tandem with a female stoker. You may know Thurlow Rodgers. I rode a lot with his group when he lived in the SF Valley. Now he and Pam live down by you in San Diego. Again; enjoy your videos and will check out your website/online store for some purchases.
@@oldcyclist1838 ah yes Marc Patton! I think the first time I met Brook Henderson he was riding with you at the Grand Tour. I am a ONE man shop. My website doesn’t get updated as often as it should. I am also the webmaster 😂 when you’re in the market for something drop me a line because 9 times out of 10 I can get it but it’s not listed in my website. Cheers!
Great Video!!! I have an sq lab 612 Ergowave Active in transit to me. This video is very informative and will be useful for installing mine on my bike. Thank You!!!
Thanks for the information about the SQ612. Picked one up and it's very comfortable. Will be my go to saddle moving forward! Your videos are great.
Thank you Larry! Please like the video and please consider subsscribing
A little late to the party...Thanks for the really informative video. I'll be taking some more measurements from my bike.
Bonjour à vous .
Vous dite que les selles doivent être réglé de niveau mais de l'arrière de la selle au bec ?
Ou seulement la partie avant de niveau ?
George I'd love to know how you in particular measure the saddle angle on the sqlabs saddles, I'm currently running the 60x non active as per your last recommendation.
I don’t measure saddle angles. I put the saddle on, I ride it, and make adjustments until it’s comfortable
What part of an sq lab saddle should be level, as there are 3 different tiers to it. The middle because that is where you’re meant to sit?
Correct! The nose should be flat as well. I’m surprised when I see riders with their saddles nose up 🤷♂️
Thank you for watching please subscribe!
Great video I have read many reviews and a number of people said with the flat part of the saddle level it made them feel like they were getting pushed forward and putting more pressure on their hands. Is this normal. If I decide to purchase one can I get one from you the 612 non carbon.
Hello Gary thanks for watching!
I set all 612 Ergowave saddles flat. I don’t know what these reviews are talking about. The only thing I can think of is the saddle is not positioned right and riders are trying to ride to rearward on the saddle on the ramped part. But I wouldn’t believe those reviews I think they are full of it.
Yes you definitely can buy SQ Lab saddles from me. I am one of very few shops that even know these saddles exist 😂
Thank you for your great videos. Some remarks about taking dimensions: saddles can have different lenght (standard around 275mm but many "short nose" are around 250mm) so measuring from nose to stem is not really reliable. Same about saddle height, because on SQLab's saddles you sat on the back, so i assume saddle height must not be measured on the front flat part.
I appreciate your comment about saddle lengths. This video made the assumption of replacing a standard length saddle with another standard length saddle. In this video the customer was doing a demo on a 612 standard and he had purchased a 612 standard which I was replacing in the video.
As a norm I don’t sell or recommend short nose saddles. Personally when I’ve ridden them I can’t stand them so I don’t recommend them.
Lastly, saddle height an SQ Lab is measured in the center of the saddle - that’s where you sit. You don’t sit on the back but sure you can slide forward and sit on the nose. Furthermore, it doesn’t matter where exactly you measure anything on the bike. As long as you measure it exactly in the same place when removing and reinstalling a saddle. Measure things at a point on the bike and component where it makes sense to you and is repeatable that’s all that really matters.
Here’s an example - some people measure saddle height from the center of the bottom bracket, some people measure from the center of the pedal spindle and others measure from the end of the crankarm - as long as you know what you measured and annotated it as such it will work for you.
Thanks for watching.
Great video! I’m struggling with setback because I came from a shorter nose saddle. Do you have any suggestions??? My setback is 5.9cm with the slr boost. I’m trying it the 612 active thank you:)
@@Zwiftsushi depending on your height and frame size it might be ok. Most people fit in the 6-8cm range. How much more do you need? A long time ago FSA had a 35mm setback seatpost but depends on the bike you ride whether it has proprietary post.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad oh sorry I meant I’m having trouble figure out where to put the sq lab saddle to match where my old one was in space where I was seated. I’m 5’6
@@Zwiftsushi I guess I am still confused. But I can’t help you from afar. It’s just trial and error. Don’t overthink it. People get obsessed about Bike Fit. It isn’t that important! Your body is an amazing machine it will adjust to anything within a few rides. Please don’t overthink it.
@@Zwiftsushi thanks for watching and please consider subscribing
This saddle was decent when I got it, now I can’t decide if I like it downward or upward and I’m having discomfort on my sit bones. It’s at about 2 degrees up (based off the front 1/2 of the saddle). I just catch myself sliding down off the shelf. One complaint about this saddle, is your not really locked in. Yeah, there is relieve down there, but I’m still trying to get it right.
Hopefully you got the right size. It shouldn’t take you that long to diego it in.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad hips measured 122mm at my last fit. I went with a 14mm
Would the 612 be a good choice for mtb? I see they have a 611 as well. Thank you very much and I enjoyed these videos.
Many riders use the same saddle for road and MTB. If I were ever to MTB I would use the same saddle for both bikes.
However, I’ve sold quite a few of the MTB specific saddle as well.
Thanks for watching please consider subscribing
Cheers!
Great video , But I was interested to see how you get it level ?
Thanks for watching. You just put it level. That’s the least specific thing you do when installing a saddle. You just eye it.
The next step that’s not in this video is the customer gets on the bike on the fitting stand and then we make adjustments.
Lastly, the customer rides the bike outside and we make final adjustments.
Please subscribe
It cracks me up that people obsess about how to level a saddle. It’s irrelevant. The saddle is placed where the rider is most comfortable- that’s it it’s not that complicated please don’t over think it. 🥰🥰🥰
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad As my SQLABS saddle has 3 steps ,it's not obvious where to level from ,as regards to not over thinking it ,you can get perineal nerve damage on a comfortable saddle due to position . I've since got the info from SQLabs thanks .
@@kevindean9613 you’re welcome! I contend it’s not that important as you think it is. It’s fairly easy to dial in the saddle - you can just eye it and adjust as needed.
Process of elimination it’s obvious you can’t us the back of the saddle since it’s so high compared to the rest of the saddle. You just look where you actually will sit and make an effort to make it level.
You are over thinking it and of course if the saddle isn’t positioned properly it will cause discomfort, pain or whatever. BUT that has nothing to do with the saddle being level.
After 20 years of fitting and thousands of bike fits, saddles DON’T have to be exactly level for a rider to be comfortable, efficient and powerful. THAT was the point I was trying to convey to you.
Please subscribe for more of my no nonsense advice.
What about levelling the saddle using a digital level? And doesn't their system use an elastomer in the rear of the saddle which can be changed based on the weight of the rider?
Hello Mark thank you for your comment. Saddles should be flat, no tilt whatsoever. Over 20 years of doing bike fits and nearly 10 years of using SQ Lab saddles I have a very good feel for placing it flat. However, when not as experienced it definitely wouldn’t hurt to use a level. As a home mechanic you won’t be doing thousands of saddle installs so it may take time to develop the eye for it. There are times I’m doing 5-10 saddle installs for a rider during a bike fit so yeah I’ve done A LOT of saddles 😂 Eventually you won’t need a level. Also this particular saddle has an unusually high back end and a pronounced drop to the nose. It’s difficult to put a level on it.
What you are describing is an active saddle. This is not an active saddle. I don’t sell active saddles unless someone specifically asks for them because the principle of having a saddle that moves under you is counter to good power production. I don’t understand why anyone would want a saddle that wiggles underneath you.
Active saddles have 3 elastomers white, grey and black and yes their design uses weight as a criteria.
Thank You for your comment please subscribe 🙂
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad The elastomers are exactly what I’m talking about it’s one of the things I liked about it when I watched the video on their website. I’m not a super aggressive cyclist or a racer, so in terms of a small power loss I don’t care about it so much so if the seat moves a little bit and I had no issues I’d be willing to try it.
As for how to measure it with a level I have a large flat piece of plastic that’s quite a lot larger than the saddle, I lay it on top of the saddle and it gives me a flat, even surface to work with. I have a precision digital level that I use to measure it, and even if I did 1000 saddle installations I’m an engineer so I will always check it no matter what my eyes tell me.
Habe a good weekend
@@markfalkingham590 it’s not even about power loss I just don’t want a saddle moving underneath me. I give the customer the option they can demo both and decide. They usually come back for the non-active version. It’s like Speedplay pedals why does someone need 15-20 degrees of float? They don’t! I ride fixed cleats with no float and move many riders away from float and they are much happier. So no wiggly saddles and no float in the pedals.
Regarding the “how to” measure saddle tilt - I know all the hacks. I do it if the customer specifically asks for it but as you said “I’m an engineer…” so you have to do it 😂
People make such a big stink about millimeters and degrees in bike fits but really it’s not that complicated and not that scientific. People obsess about the minutia. Cycling is a sport of passion not gear ratios and gear inches etc
Have a great weekend as well? What are your ride plans?
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad I am recovering from an injury that occurred at the end of October, I slightly tore a quadracep during a hard session of marathon training so my riding is on my indoor trainer currently. That being said I’m up to about 200km per week indoors so hopefully I’ll be back on the bike and in running shoes soon.
I run Ultegra clipless with yellow cleats so I have a hair bit of float but not too much. I don’t disagree with you about the saddle rocking but I find it interesting.
In terms of carbon seat-post mount compatibility you should mention that crawl based pinching ones are not suitable at all. They should have quite a long and flat interface groove to the rails.
I probably mentioned that in the first video. Take a look. I know I talked about having a carbon rail specific clamp. Let me know if I missed it.
Hey again George I am still working on the saddle issue and I’m still leaning in the SQLAB direction (612) and I wanted to ask an additional question, and this may come down to personal preference would you recommend the standard saddle with the steel rails or would you recommend the carbon saddle? Thanks again
Hello Mark Thank You for your comment. As the owner of a high-end boutique bike shop I like to put the high-end items on my bike. It helps keep my inventory costs down and shows a customer that I really ride the product I am recommending to them. I like the carbon rail saddles for myself and it suits my business needs. However, if budget is a consideration then the S-rail saddle is perfect and exactly the same as the carbon rail. Additionally, you won’t have to hunt around for a carbon specific saddle clamp for your seatpost. Personally I think too much has been made about the purported comfort of carbon bits on your bike - tire choice and tire pressure does A LOT more to create vibration dampening in your bike. The choice is yours either saddle will feel great to your bum. Thank You for watching!
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Thanks George, it’s not budget it’s more what’s necessary as I’m not familiar with this family of saddles.
My bile takes either or saddle rails (Cervelo S5 circa 2016) I’ll take your comments and add that to my decision making process
@@markfalkingham590 Thank You for valuing my opinion 🙂
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Absolutely, I’ve watched a lot of your videos, you remind me of the guy that owns the shop near Chicago where I bought my Cervelo. I haven’t found any local bike shops or owners here in Germany that are like him / you
@@markfalkingham590 Thank You for the compliment! In what way do I remind you of your Chicago bike shop owner? What are you looking for in a shop owner in Germany?
Great video.
Thank you for watching!
You measure so much, but not the saddle tilt? Thank you for your opinions about the SQlab btw, just ordered a 611 M-D
Hello Victor! Thank You so much for your comment. I don’t measure saddle tilt because the saddle should be flat. There is never a reason to have the saddle other than flat. Hence, saddle tilt is not a measurement. I see people tilt their saddles often but when I do their bike fit I level their saddle and start from a neutral position and then they realize they were compensating for something else that was wrong and the saddle should have been level the entire time. So to recap there are 3 essential measurements 1. Saddle Height 2. Saddle Setback from the Bottom Bracket 3. Reach - 3A- saddle tip to steerer tube 3B - Saddle Tip to Tip of brake hood.
One more additional measurement not applicable in this instance since we were just changing a saddle. If you are changing stems or moving headset spacers around then you must measure 4. Bar height from center of front axle to center of handlebar
Thank You for watching please subscribe.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad Well when you are trying to be accurate to 0.1 mm I just thought that maybe you would also want to be sure that the tilt is the same as before even if that tilt is 0° which I doubt you can eyeball to 0.1° accuracy. So if the saddles tilt is ever so slightly off from before, then all the other measurements will be off as well. Thank you again for sharing your insights on the SQ Labs saddles. It was a contributing factor to my ordering it.
@@viktorspett8819 I guess this will be checked when the owner comes in for a bike fit:)
What is your opinion of sq lab 612r saddle. I like my 612 saddle
Hello Lamont! Thank you for taking the time to post a comment. I personally own the 612R. I have it on my Bianchi XR4 rim brake race bike. I wanted a really light saddle but didn't want to stray away from the comfort I get from my SQ Lab saddles. I purchased the 612R and I have mixed feelings about it. I love the shape and the comfort of the saddle but I miss the longer nose. If you are not aware the nose is a bit shorter on it. I tend to slide up and back on my saddle depending on the situation like closing a gap when I've been dropped from a group or when climbing a 25% grade. This sounds like a great video to make comparing the standard and the short nose saddles! Let me know if you have any further questions.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad I would love to see a video on the differences between sq 612 and 612r. I have the 612 I’ve been thinking about getting 612r. Thanks
Hello Lamont! I made the comparison video of the 612R and the 612 you can find it here let me know if you have any further questions. Comment on the new video it took me a LONG time to find this comment to respond to you lol! th-cam.com/video/Zgpa3Rzw-SU/w-d-xo.html
I’m surprised you just “eyeball” the saddle tip setback from the bb (in the video example 8 cm), rather than drop a plumb bob from the tip of the saddle down past the bb and measure that way. Wouldn’t that be more accurate? Enjoyed the video. I’ve been doing the same measurements, but was missing the saddle tip to brake hood tip measurement, so I’ll add that the next time I change saddles on one of my bikes. Thanks.
DISCLAIMER: the following are comments made to anyone clicking on to this video and not directed towards you OldCyclist except the intro 😂
Thank you for watching! I have two or three plum bobs that are all gathering dust. 😊
I will be the devils advocate - What is this insistent need for accuracy? What is accurate? Who deems it so? What are you accurately measuring with the plumb on the tip of the saddle? Does it even matter?
I get the same questions about why I’m not using a spirit level to ensure the saddle is level. Who said the saddle had to be level? Who deemed it so?
Another example is when I do a bike fit I do not use a plumbob for knee over pedal spindle (KOPS) another archaic and irrelevant measurement to how the bike rider rides his bike over a six hour training ride.
These things that people obsess about are pointless exercises when what matters most important that the rider is comfortable, efficient and powerful.
So you put the saddle on you get it close and then you put the rider on the bike on the trainer make adjustments to saddle height, fore and aft and tilt, get it close and then get the rider to ride the bike outside for a couple of days or weeks and have them come back for a follow up fitting.
I hope this helps everyone that clicks on this video discussion.
@@SeeYouUpTheRoad I guess you just have more experience looking straight down to gauge setback. I find that if I were to do it that way I could easily be off a cm or 2. On another note I used to ride with you back in the day on some doubles (Death Valley, LA Grand Tour, etc). I came across your channel a month ago and was pleased that you are still going strong. I am still riding, but limit myself to centuries now. Enjoy your videos and will continue to watch and learn. Thanks.
@@oldcyclist1838 ha ha I call it having a “laser eye” 😂 i’ve been doing bike fits for over 20 years now I have a very good sense of where things are supposed to be. You can imagine how many thousands of bike fits I’ve done.
I also get buy-in from the fitting client every step of the fitting process with feedback and confirmation of how I took the measurement and I have them take the same measurement with whatever device I’m using. That way, when they are on their own, or travel, or a bike mechanic inadvertently changes something on their fit, they know how to get it back to where I have set it.
I see you are not using your birth name on TH-cam. If you’d like to remain anonymous you can send me an email at revcycling@gmail.com then I will know who you are, and when we used to ride together.
Alternatively, you can also share your stories here on TH-cam with me.
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@@SeeYouUpTheRoad you may remember me: Marc Patton. I did a lot of Chris’ and Deb’s Doubles. I remember
You riding a lot of those Doubles on a Tandem with a female stoker. You may know Thurlow Rodgers. I rode a lot with his group when he lived in the SF Valley. Now he and Pam live down by you in San Diego. Again; enjoy your videos and will check out your website/online store for some purchases.
@@oldcyclist1838 ah yes Marc Patton! I think the first time I met Brook Henderson he was riding with you at the Grand Tour.
I am a ONE man shop. My website doesn’t get updated as often as it should. I am also the webmaster 😂 when you’re in the market for something drop me a line because 9 times out of 10 I can get it but it’s not listed in my website.
Cheers!