If anyone is interested in what he is saying in this video (if you do not speak Arabic), from what I can tell throughout the video he is saying to make sure that you do not drop the bolts while unscrewing and for specifics, when he turns the pulley the first time he does so from the right and when he does it a second time (to remove the water pump) he does it from the left. For most of the steps, he does use English when it comes to naming the parts he is removing. Maybe this is somewhat helpful and maybe it is not.
Understood totally what he was doing & saying brother. And i don't speak Arabic. The mechanics of working on a car are universal. Thanks for posting a translation also. Peace
Thanks for posting the video. :) It involves working with some parts I'd rather not mess with, myself, so I'll save up some money to pay someone else to do it. But at least the video gave me a good understanding of what is involved. Thanks again!
Did mine about a year ago... It really is this much of a pain in the ass... I don't remember having to remove the center pulley though (and checking the FSM, you don't need to). Took my dad and I about 4 hours to do, although I did strip out every bolt hole when remounting the water pump (3 heli-coils installed).
I don't quite no what scare tactic is being used by mechanics(Sales strategy that helps other mechanics, can't blame em... no cars, no money)... But honestly, it's nothing close to a "Pain the the ass or PITA". It's actually quite straight forward and nothing close to how everyone makes it seem. *NO, you do not have to go to TDC to do this, 1. Remove ONLY THE BACK BELT 2. Remove Upper radiator hose 3. Remove the main harness plug for the fans 4. Remove the Fans(One Piece) 5. Remove the covers to the Tensioner and water pump. 6. Pump an allen key in the hole that you will see on the tensioner(If you don't, you will have to put it in a vice, you can press it back)(THIS STEP IS ALWAYS MISSED!!!) 7. Keep a mag pen with you to hold against removing the bolts, drop a bolt, you will spend the week pulling the timing cover 8. Keep a hold of that pin in the tensioner while you remove the last bolt to it, pull together and steady, Once you place your hand on the kep, don't let go. Pull away and TAKE YOUR TIME. 9. Turn your crankshaft COUNTER-CLOCKWISE LIKE 5-6 DEGREES as you look at the tension side of the chain... When it goes straight and somewhat tight, STOP!!!! Go to far over, Much luck to ya bub. 10. Pull the pump out by wiggling or lightly jarring it out. DO NOT USE ALL THE MUSCLES YOU HAVE! It's tight but you will get it.(I didnt have the right bolts to put in the top and bottom to wiggle out, I was replacing it anyways so I used an angle screwdriver with a larger head and pryed it bit by bit). 11. Put the new pump it, add some ED(Even when they say not too because it does not make a difference) 11A. You will have to faggle around with the chain to get the pump around it but DO NOT use force. 12. Tighten the pump up(YOU HAVE AN ALUMINUM MOTOR, DO NOT TIGHTEN THE FUCK OUT OF THE BOLTS LIKE I SEE A LOT OF PEOPLE DO! Those o-rings have a good seal. 13. Once it's on and tightened down, turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE and put everything back in. DO NOT PULL THAT PIN OUT UNTIL YOU GOT EVERYTHING TOGETHER before you close the seal. 14. Before you close the seal, go ahead and turn the crankshaft clockwise all the way around for piece of mind. 15. Bolt her back up, filler up, idle and filler er again... Done (I'd use a Lisle Spill-Free Funnel) because you will be bleeding the air out and that back of the firewall bleed valve makes it a pain in the ass to bleed.
Looks much easier than the maxima, which are a pain in the ass. Took me two days to do it in the Florida summer sun with no shade😭😭. Had to remove the pass side mount to get to the water pump, which only gives you 2 to 3 inches of work space.
@warriorpluto so I went to check the car out. Its clean in and out, front bumper had a few chips nothing significant, rotors and brakes looked new, car drives smooth. The bad, the headliner in the front is coming down, I notice the backup camera doesnt work, I dont think the seat temps work either. The person that's selling the car had me meet her at her mechanic. so I asked him if he did any major work like water pump, alternator, etc he said no. The car has 106k mi on it. I would think those things had to be change already. But it's also possible the previous owner/s could have done it🤷♂️
It’s funny how the lighting dims when he pulls the pump do you can’t see the shit ton of coolant going into the oil pan. You know there’s a drain bolt on the side of the block right?
How to set to TDC with only tensioner and water pump covers off? If doing by the pulley / piston there is 50-50% chance you're at TDC (on compression stroke). Thanks!
Can this video be used as a reference for a 2012 M37? Meaning is the W/P design, layout and location the same for later model years? I know the 3.5 and 3.7 engine are basically the same design and layout with slight displacement changes which should be either a larger piston bore and or different ECU programming.
regardless of what language he is speaking i found this video very helpful i have to do this on my m35 this weekend but from the looks of it i will be paying someone very time consuming!
It doesn't matter how long the job was,if you could do it yourself good for you,but if not he will charge what ever his current market is,knowledge and experience is💸 books 📚 smart is also but with a price You won't want to pay for👍
Is it really that much of a pain in the ass? That looks like an extremely shitty job! I mean I was an airplane mechanic for 10 years so I can turn a wrench, but that looks like it blows!
I thought the same thing. Like how the lighting dimmed all of a sudden so you couldn’t see it. When they realize there’s a drain bolt right beside it on the block
As long as the coolant stayed in the T/C cover AFTER removal. If not that coolant that can be circulated back through the internal engine components and mock with oil.
@ yea if u don't know what u you doing yes u need to read the manual ,instructions,directions and i bet u were one of those students that ask alot stupid questions cuzz can't understand shit!
If anyone is interested in what he is saying in this video (if you do not speak Arabic), from what I can tell throughout the video he is saying to make sure that you do not drop the bolts while unscrewing and for specifics, when he turns the pulley the first time he does so from the right and when he does it a second time (to remove the water pump) he does it from the left. For most of the steps, he does use English when it comes to naming the parts he is removing. Maybe this is somewhat helpful and maybe it is not.
Understood totally what he was doing & saying brother. And i don't speak Arabic. The mechanics of working on a car are universal. Thanks for posting a translation also. Peace
Thanks for posting the video. :) It involves working with some parts I'd rather not mess with, myself, so I'll save up some money to pay someone else to do it. But at least the video gave me a good understanding of what is involved. Thanks again!
Did mine about a year ago... It really is this much of a pain in the ass... I don't remember having to remove the center pulley though (and checking the FSM, you don't need to). Took my dad and I about 4 hours to do, although I did strip out every bolt hole when remounting the water pump (3 heli-coils installed).
Great video... I wish it was in English. I'm gonna have to do this next.
Great video guys
where's the video to put it back on
This would be AWESOME, if we could understand him! He is skilled
I don't quite no what scare tactic is being used by mechanics(Sales strategy that helps other mechanics, can't blame em... no cars, no money)... But honestly, it's nothing close to a "Pain the the ass or PITA". It's actually quite straight forward and nothing close to how everyone makes it seem.
*NO, you do not have to go to TDC to do this,
1. Remove ONLY THE BACK BELT
2. Remove Upper radiator hose
3. Remove the main harness plug for the fans
4. Remove the Fans(One Piece)
5. Remove the covers to the Tensioner and water pump.
6. Pump an allen key in the hole that you will see on the tensioner(If you don't, you will have to put it in a vice, you can press it back)(THIS STEP IS ALWAYS MISSED!!!)
7. Keep a mag pen with you to hold against removing the bolts, drop a bolt, you will spend the week pulling the timing cover
8. Keep a hold of that pin in the tensioner while you remove the last bolt to it, pull together and steady, Once you place your hand on the kep, don't let go. Pull away and TAKE YOUR TIME.
9. Turn your crankshaft COUNTER-CLOCKWISE LIKE 5-6 DEGREES as you look at the tension side of the chain... When it goes straight and somewhat tight, STOP!!!! Go to far over, Much luck to ya bub.
10. Pull the pump out by wiggling or lightly jarring it out. DO NOT USE ALL THE MUSCLES YOU HAVE! It's tight but you will get it.(I didnt have the right bolts to put in the top and bottom to wiggle out, I was replacing it anyways so I used an angle screwdriver with a larger head and pryed it bit by bit).
11. Put the new pump it, add some ED(Even when they say not too because it does not make a difference)
11A. You will have to faggle around with the chain to get the pump around it but DO NOT use force.
12. Tighten the pump up(YOU HAVE AN ALUMINUM MOTOR, DO NOT TIGHTEN THE FUCK OUT OF THE BOLTS LIKE I SEE A LOT OF PEOPLE DO! Those o-rings have a good seal.
13. Once it's on and tightened down, turn the crankshaft CLOCKWISE and put everything back in. DO NOT PULL THAT PIN OUT UNTIL YOU GOT EVERYTHING TOGETHER before you close the seal.
14. Before you close the seal, go ahead and turn the crankshaft clockwise all the way around for piece of mind.
15. Bolt her back up, filler up, idle and filler er again... Done (I'd use a Lisle Spill-Free Funnel) because you will be bleeding the air out and that back of the firewall bleed valve makes it a pain in the ass to bleed.
thanks, but how does the timing chain not rotate and jump if you didn't put it at TDC? doesn't make sense to me
Put a 30$ water pump replacement. I wonder how long it lasted. Great video 👌🏼
Excelent video! And for those idiots that need words to explain a handy job! Please do not work on cars! Or anything that requires hands on
Looks much easier than the maxima, which are a pain in the ass. Took me two days to do it in the Florida summer sun with no shade😭😭. Had to remove the pass side mount to get to the water pump, which only gives you 2 to 3 inches of work space.
@warriorpluto I'm going to check out a 2010 m35 this wknd. Hopefully all is well with it.🤞
@warriorpluto so I went to check the car out. Its clean in and out, front bumper had a few chips nothing significant, rotors and brakes looked new, car drives smooth.
The bad, the headliner in the front is coming down, I notice the backup camera doesnt work, I dont think the seat temps work either. The person that's selling the car had me meet her at her mechanic. so I asked him if he did any major work like water pump, alternator, etc he said no. The car has 106k mi on it. I would think those things had to be change already. But it's also possible the previous owner/s could have done it🤷♂️
Does it have to be tdc compression or exhaust stroke ?
It’s funny how the lighting dims when he pulls the pump do you can’t see the shit ton of coolant going into the oil pan. You know there’s a drain bolt on the side of the block right?
Yeah, the oil pans a little bitty thing on the bottom you can take off and let all that run out
Excelente vídeo, trasciende cualquier lengua.
الله ينور عليك يا معلم انا عندي عربيه زيها وعندي الفتيس بيفضل مرات على الغيار التالت ايه السبب ياريت ترد عليا
How to set to TDC with only tensioner and water pump covers off? If doing by the pulley / piston there is 50-50% chance you're at TDC (on compression stroke). Thanks!
Can this video be used as a reference for a 2012 M37? Meaning is the W/P design, layout and location the same for later model years? I know the 3.5 and 3.7 engine are basically the same design and layout with slight displacement changes which should be either a larger piston bore and or different ECU programming.
Good video. Thks
2008 G35 Infiniti sedan 5:20 water pump exchange
thanks
Why aew you taking so that off for the water pump
I’m asking for myself because definitely not sure why he did all that.
wow I paid 50 for water pump for 2006 infinniti g35 x and my friend charged me 200 to install I guess I got a good deal
+atown Ish oh yea good deal wasn't easy
mines was only 20.00
Yeah, good deal for you. He got screwed.
it's funny cause my friend does speak only Spanish and he used this video cause he never installed a water pump in a infiniiti
regardless of what language he is speaking i found this video very helpful i have to do this on my m35 this weekend but from the looks of it i will be paying someone very time consuming!
Good
I wonder how much he make or charge a hour for doing this job, video ain't but 8mins :-)
It doesn't matter how long the job was,if you could do it yourself good for you,but if not he will charge what ever his current market is,knowledge and experience is💸 books 📚 smart is also but with a price You won't want to pay for👍
Wish I had a lift😩🤦🏻♂️
Is it really that much of a pain in the ass? That looks like an extremely shitty job! I mean I was an airplane mechanic for 10 years so I can turn a wrench, but that looks like it blows!
how much does a shop charge for this job
+atown Ish it was around $650
I just paied 900 on a 08 g35 for the water pump
@@akcookie2069 Holy God dam that's alot of moneys lol.
@@Americanman450 you will pay for anything goes wrong on infinti
Just paid 1,000 for this repair 🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️🤦🏾♂️ I love my infinity truck tho
ابي اتواصل معك وتس اب
It's funny how every time he struggled it cut to a different shot... 🤔
My favorite part was when the water pump dumped a lot of coolant into the timing cover.
looks like he may have edited that part out. lol
I thought the same thing. Like how the lighting dimmed all of a sudden so you couldn’t see it. When they realize there’s a drain bolt right beside it on the block
As long as the coolant stayed in the T/C cover AFTER removal. If not that coolant that can be circulated back through the internal engine components and mock with oil.
мен бəрін түсіндім дегенмен ағылшын тілін оқу керек
English ?
toyota is GARBAGE
what toyota ? thats a infiniti my guy…
prying the pump out with prybars? you shouldn't make a video when you haven't a clue.
if only this dude could speak english...
You a bitch ass Canadian then for that weak ass comment
His an idiot for speaking English ? He is speaking. Your bitch ass can't even speak another language, ill call you an idiot
U are the idiot cuzz u can't figure it out just by watching it!
@@mrsantosjon You're an idiot for assuming I can't speak another language.... Because I can :)
@ yea if u don't know what u you doing yes u need to read the manual ,instructions,directions and i bet u were one of those students that ask alot stupid questions cuzz can't understand shit!
speak English
Get lost and find another video