Due to popular demand (one person), I have made the slot cleaning tool public here - www.tinkercad.com/things/7hMLewWecAH-mfs-super-nintendo-slot-cleaning-set
Great video, lovely SNES case! I remember back in the day comparing the SNES and MegaDrive. To me, the Sega machine may have been uncensored, but the SNES had better graphics and the digitised speech always sounded better too.
I felt the SNES was a bit more fluid and solid feeling in gameplay. A weird way to describe it, but it felt more official. The Mega Drive felt more edgy though. More punk. Agree on the technical aspects and how it seemed.
What a coincidence, I just finished reassembling my Game Boy Color [sic], after I decided I was finally fed up with it crashing randomly since I upgraded the screen to a fancy new OLED one. I think the wire that I soldered on to power it was coming into contact with the pins of the cartridge connector when I bumped it too hard, causing the crash. A bit of Clapton tape seems to have fixed that, and I also took the opportunity to solder a second wire for a better GND return path. As a bonus, I also somehow fixed the issue I was having with the D-pad where it seemed a little unresponsive pressing right and overly twitchy to the right. A very productive Nintendo repair job for the both of us then!
Nice work! Having a bigger cartridge slot is good for playing US games, but dust can gather within the console much easier now. Btw., to really finish that build, you should add the SNES sticker on the top right of the shell.😉
LOL! "Blast processing seems to be involved in the damage." Well played fine sir! I wonder if we're ever going to see that Sega vs Nintendo docu-movie that was talked about years ago.
@@MarkFixesStuff you're not wrong!! Wish I could find a TV to get my old Grandstand SD-070 working on, or a composite mod,and really show my kids how we gamed in the 70's!
I'm pretty sure you're aware but just in case - pay attention to that C59 cap because it was a 'factory defect' of SNSP-01 boards as they included a polarised cap on that 12v circuit. Nintendo fixed that on later SNSP-02 revisions. The best solution is to replace it with a non-polarised one of the same rating. My previous SNES died after that leakage caused it to smoke underneath. Luckily, the one that I currently own already came in with that cap replaced.
Actually I didn't know that, so thank you so much for the info. I will be recapping this one and I'm ordering the parts myself so you've probably saved me from making a mistake. Thank you!!!!!
I want to do the dual crystal mod so that this one can run all the games at the right speeds and screen sizes. I tried to get a Super Famicom from Japan but the postage put me off in the end.
If the SNES is anything like NEC, and I believe it is, the brassy-lookin’ internal screws have the same threads as the external GameBit screws. For Retro Game Restore’s PC Engine replacement shells I found it much easier to create threads for the GameBit screws using the internal screws. Once the threads are cut, return them to their places and carry on.
Very nice. You have the right temperament to get all the details right for all of us to enjoy. I know you'll go back later and polish up those heat sinks and remove that dust. Beautiful build. Thanks for the memories!
Thank you! I know that I need to recap the board due to that damage, so I didn't bother cleaing the whole board or polishing the metal parts yet. I also want to instal a DFO mod but need to save some money first.
I've got a brown Super Famicon that the front corner crumbled on when I took it to bits to clean it and I apparently put a bit too much of my wheatabix strength into and it turned to shards. I may do that.
Yeah, I've seen quite a few Super Famicoms with brittle plastic like that. I hope someone comes out with a Master System shell, as some of those can become brittle, too (but at least they can't turn yellow)
@@MarkFixesStuff it might make for a fun video restoring all the lost functionality of the model 2 mastersystem with the mod kits available from consoles unleashed, you can even get a card catcher for playing those games on a model 2 as well
Whenever I watch these snes fix videos I always wonder if it was my old one, had it when it was released, had great fun with it for a few years then my brother got a playstation and it dwarfed it in gaming, so sold it to get more games for the playstation.
Very nice work, Mark... and pleased to hear you'll be doing the 60Hz dual-oscillator mod so that the machine can achieve its full potential with that flash cart! Plenty of other commenters have also mentioned other hardware quirks to look out for, but are you also going to add Voultar's SNES 2Chip RGB edge enhancer? Unless you've lucked out and have one of the super rare 1CHIP PAL SNES units!
I have been tweeting (x-ing??) Voultar about ordering in the UK. He says' it's going to be possible but I also know he's busy and I'm moving house soon I hope.
The silver [whisper] “back panel” [/whisper] screw threads into the modulator so no need to tack-solder. Just secure and solder normally. Months ago I got a PAL-modded SFC from Thailand with an even worse top shell. What little was left crumbled to bits in my luggage. There wasn’t a single intact screw post and a capacitor even fell off the board. The audio was bad and I pretty much had no cartridge audio for Super Game Boy but that was also the case for the other SFC/SNES consoles I brought back (definitely wasn’t my SGBs). Most of them have frequency mods with a replacement PAL RF modulator installed but this one had a region mod and a RGB to PAL CVBS encoder using the ubiquitous Sony CXA1145P. Still 60hz with no PAL RF. It was definitely a Japanese NTSC GPM-01 board.
Bloody hell. Of course that's a better idea with the modulator! Thank you! The regional differences in those territories "in between" standards are often really interesting. I'm quite keen to do a switchless dual oscillator region mod for this one. With the shell being smashed I didn't feel bad about replacing it.
LOL! Well, another tip to ensure power jack alignment is to pin it to the back panel with the adapter plug before soldering it down. Since you have a detachable plug you won’t even have a cord in the way!
Oh yeah: These consoles were all gray market imports with warranty stickers by whoever did the conversion back in the day. Most were originally Japanese consoles but one was an American SHVC-CPU-01 that had clearly been through a fire (melted corner). It had the usual frequency mod and bodged-in PAL modulator but the interesting thing was the standard power jack coming out of the left side with a perfectly drilled hole. It was clear they had a drill jig and used the structure around the eject mechanism to consistently align the port before gluing. Back then there was no 220v adapter available for the American consoles, leaving them no better option. The non-standard jack was intended to keep Americans from using an AC NES-002 plug. In Japan the FC/SFC adapter was DC. I don’t know why they didn’t just use a rectifier like PAL systems. The real reason these replacement shells come with the back panel and LED/controller port module is so that they can fit American boards. Yeah: those parts don’t swap.
Very curious which countries have the most "cheaper" plastics used in their making both Nintendo systems & games? I ask because some nes & snes consoles naturally biodegrade differently - some turn really yellow & crack so obviously much easier then others.
@@MarkFixesStuff makes sense. The flip door on 1st NES's will sometimes look a different aged yellow & crack easier huh? Sure you've seen em. But some whole systems will look like they're in later stages of bio-degrading which made me wonder if they those were made in Mexico or Taiwan etc, you know, certain area's that make parts/systems, are their ways of knowing land they were manufactured & has been addressed in any detail? The composite materials used on some are very subpar- be good to know if you can know by serial #'s the good the bad (the led based 😂) the ugly made systems for each generation? Like the "Heavy sixers" (Atari 2600's) which were made in California (don't remember the town but gave 1(: ) are great 1's to score, particle board composites but made like a brick shithouse! Last the ages 😂
I like that the shell makes the system accept US SNES carts. So I could buy this to replace my US system shell too. That's probably why it comes with a controller port replacement. The US LED light is on the front, and wouldn't work.
@@MarkFixesStuff The MB for the US system is identical to the JPN boards. Only the cart slot and cart shape where altered to region lock the systems. The LED location is the only electrical alteration done between the regions.
That’s a lovely looking case! Well worth the effort. Will you be rescuing the serial number and ID stickers from the bottom of the old case (or making new ones)?
I think the shell is great and much better quality than some other replacement shell kits for other consoles. Things like you mention here are going to crop up I guess. I can't moan too much!
I have read that the boards are actually the same shape? I don't have a US version, but I would be really shocked if they made a different shaped PCB just for the US market!
Normally, I'm not big on case replacements, but yes, that was a requirement on this occasion. That also brings me to the fact that those things must be near indestructible. Despite the ubiquity of the things, it is the only game console that I've never witnessed a broken example of. The worst I've had to deal with, not counting actual physical destruction with a hammer or something, in all my years and probably 100s of SNES consoles I've dealt with is a dirty cartridge slot.
The Two Barrel Jack Connectors I suspect are slightly different and are included because one is for the PAL SNES and the other one is for the SUper Famicom. That would be my guess...
@@MarkFixesStuff oh, the Super Famicoms and PAL SNES Plugs are in fact almost identical and just checked, the outer diameter is the same... THe difference is that one has a smaller nibble than the other one... THere is an easy trick to verify that: take out your Mega Drive 1 Power Plug (such as the 1602-18 and plug it in. If it fits, its the Famicom one (and for Super Famicoms in EU that is a legitimate way to use them), if it doesn't its the SNES one. The other way around sadly works (=SNES AC Plug) works in both, kinda, somewhat...
Didn't had any issues with the same shell you have, on that little post but my board was a 1chip-02 guess they are little different. Some report the screw post in the back next to the multi out is against the board, didn't had these issues. About the 60hz mod, it's not that easy with these legs you need to lift on ppu 1 leg 24 and ppu 2 leg 30, im sure with your skills it's easy, you can just solder a switch to them with a 2.2k resistor to get the correct picture, they switch from ground to 5v (3.3v ish) ground is 60hz and 5v is 50hz. I placed the switch for hz switch in the hole where the RF used to be, i removed that thing. And you need to disable pin 4 from regio chip next to the power switch pole. There are alot of tutorials online, but it's rewarding to use us carts and japanese carts to your pal system. Hope this was helpful.
Very helpful! Thanks so much for taking the time to tell me these tips. I was thinking of going for one of these: github.com/borti4938/SNES_MultiRegion_with_DeJitter_QID - Although I might just buy one becuase the parts and shipping make a self build expensive for one unit,
Genuine answer is that Alan Hammerton (editor on Fusion Magazine) gave it to me in this state. I think it was from a job lot of "junk consoles" and he was clearing out his workshop. He also gave me a couple of spares boards with various bits missing. I'm balming Sonic though.
this model needs C59 replaced with a bipolar equivalent to prevent damage to the board as it often leaks and kills the cpu, just for when you get around to it :)
I just bought some Vessel Megadora 900 screwdrivers, which are JIS ( Japanese Industry Standard ) Maybe they would be good for working on these consoles ? They do seem to be a lot more grippier than standard Philips screwdrivers
it would be really nice if y ou could get that style shell that worked with the US style SNES, I hate the way the US model looks compared to the Euro / Japanese case.
I am planning to either polish them to a high shine ot use a modern TRACO instead of the 7805 so I can just omit them entirely. The shielding at the front of the consle is likely not needed apart from 1990's RF regulations .
Yes. I prefer originals too. I’ve been gathering up damaged or poor condition consoles for these type of videos but wouldn’t discard a good shell. I’ve even been salvaging any decent buttons and panels. Any tips on how to find unyellowed consoles and prevent them going that way?
The PAL version is just the Japanese Super Famicom shell so I suppose they must have felt that it wouldn’t do well in the US market? I agree by the way. I think the Japanese and PAL system styling is much more sophisticated looking and the US version looks more like a toy. Maybe that was the point?
@@MarkFixesStuff JIS screws all have a dot impressed in one corner for anybody that doesn't want to closely study the shape. When you look at JIS and Phillips next to each other, the JIS looks harder edged and more precise. Easiest tells are how sharply the fins intersect in the center of the head pattern (the radius of Phillips is much larger), the sharpness of the bottom ends of the fins (Phillips tapers to a sharper bottom edge while JIS lacks the taper), and the shape of the center point (Phillips has 10 degree angle, JIS if flat).
@@MarkFixesStuff I've known complex 3D puzzles that are less likely to just destroy itself, at least puzzles are designed with the process being reversible in mind.
Also, late model SNES/SFC consoles do not have a removable cart slot. I’m not sure about RGB-01/02 but APU-01 and 1chip revisions definitely have the simpler cartridge slot.
I opened a couple joycons with the intent of smashing together some that had different issues to make a single functional joycon. I abandoned that particular endeavor after the insides.
A far better method of removing multi-pin connectors or other parts with multiple soldered pins is to bridge the pins with a piece of thick copper wire and then to apply heat to the wire using a capable iron with fresh solder at all contact points. The part will often fall out by gravity alone. I keep a spool of household 20A (12 AWG) copper wire at my bench for this purpose. Also, for cleaning contacts you'll want to look up DeoxIT products from CAIG Laboratories. As used by professionals. WD-40 is rubbish so I would have little trust in any of their products.
@@dylbob9000 I literally found one of those on AliExpress and ordered it yesterday!!! Great minds etc!! I think it’s going to look great! Still need decals though…
@@blitzerblazinoah6838 I'm a bit weird and tend to not be that interested in the newer retro stuff. I think the fragility of the older things appeals to me more than playing them I suppose?
Just use an old credit card or gift card instead of wasting time printing anything. Use t-shirt as a cloth on the credit card. I don't understand why this is so hard but it seems to be a UK thing... it does explain why they get so excited when an item ships with a 4 cent screwdriver. I suspect that is the sum total of all the tools in their flat.
Due to popular demand (one person), I have made the slot cleaning tool public here - www.tinkercad.com/things/7hMLewWecAH-mfs-super-nintendo-slot-cleaning-set
The cartridge slot on that new shell is bigger than the one on the old shell. Perfect for SNES cartridges from the Americas.
@@blitzerblazinoah6838 yes. I forgot to mention the adapter slot!
I have the clear version. It was so worth it
Great video, lovely SNES case! I remember back in the day comparing the SNES and MegaDrive. To me, the Sega machine may have been uncensored, but the SNES had better graphics and the digitised speech always sounded better too.
I felt the SNES was a bit more fluid and solid feeling in gameplay. A weird way to describe it, but it felt more official. The Mega Drive felt more edgy though. More punk. Agree on the technical aspects and how it seemed.
What a coincidence, I just finished reassembling my Game Boy Color [sic], after I decided I was finally fed up with it crashing randomly since I upgraded the screen to a fancy new OLED one. I think the wire that I soldered on to power it was coming into contact with the pins of the cartridge connector when I bumped it too hard, causing the crash. A bit of Clapton tape seems to have fixed that, and I also took the opportunity to solder a second wire for a better GND return path. As a bonus, I also somehow fixed the issue I was having with the D-pad where it seemed a little unresponsive pressing right and overly twitchy to the right.
A very productive Nintendo repair job for the both of us then!
Great work!
Nice work! Having a bigger cartridge slot is good for playing US games, but dust can gather within the console much easier now.
Btw., to really finish that build, you should add the SNES sticker on the top right of the shell.😉
Very true! It's part of my plan and I'ce been looking on Etsy for some nice decals.
I have just this. Thanks for the step by step. No issues with that peg for me though.
LOL! "Blast processing seems to be involved in the damage." Well played fine sir! I wonder if we're ever going to see that Sega vs Nintendo docu-movie that was talked about years ago.
I'd love to see that.
I think that board needs a dip in the ultra sonic cleaner 🙂
It’s in storage I’m sorry to say. Most of the gear is now packed up!
Blimey - such convenient timing! My new SFC case arrived last week… beat me to the building!
Excellent! Are you changing the back panel?
@@MarkFixesStuff It had certainly been part of the plan - even if I hadn't noticed how involved it was... now fully informed :D
I have to say I really prefer the look of the Japanese and Euro SNES/Super Famicom over the North American variant.
Agreed 1000%
Great video! Thinking about getting this shell…
@@davehall8458 It’s a decent one mate.
I bought a SNES on release day, from Tandy on Slough High Street ... Damn I'm old!!!
I just turned fifty. We are both becoming dust lol
@@MarkFixesStuff you're not wrong!! Wish I could find a TV to get my old Grandstand SD-070 working on, or a composite mod,and really show my kids how we gamed in the 70's!
Bloody loved the video! And that case... LUSH
I really can’t stop looking at it.
Often best to leave your “larger one” off camera! ;-)
Good call! I’ll keep that for my OF.
"Looking like a Gus Fring commemorative edition."
Oooooof
*straightens tie*
It looks great in that smoked case.
It feels really nice too. some shells can look good and feel a bit plasticky, but this has a really solid heft.
@@MarkFixesStuff Cool.
You're lucky to have right motherboard. There are a handful for revisions that have a different footprints so have different bottom shells to match
I had to cut the post off!
I'm pretty sure you're aware but just in case - pay attention to that C59 cap because it was a 'factory defect' of SNSP-01 boards as they included a polarised cap on that 12v circuit. Nintendo fixed that on later SNSP-02 revisions. The best solution is to replace it with a non-polarised one of the same rating. My previous SNES died after that leakage caused it to smoke underneath. Luckily, the one that I currently own already came in with that cap replaced.
Actually I didn't know that, so thank you so much for the info. I will be recapping this one and I'm ordering the parts myself so you've probably saved me from making a mistake. Thank you!!!!!
LOL I was about to mention the 78xx reg screw, then you let us know you had remembered at last.
At least you know I'm not faking it and show my mistakes...
@@MarkFixesStuff I never thought you would.
I just restored a super famicom with the bitfunx case .. it is my favorite console right now :)
I want to do the dual crystal mod so that this one can run all the games at the right speeds and screen sizes. I tried to get a Super Famicom from Japan but the postage put me off in the end.
love the look of the shell
It’s lovely!!!
Nice vlog footage of Blackwater Aldi there!
WE ARE OPENING CHECKOUT 3
Love it. Nice one mate 👍
Cheers mate!!!! It's a lovely machine. Recap next.
If the SNES is anything like NEC, and I believe it is, the brassy-lookin’ internal screws have the same threads as the external GameBit screws. For Retro Game Restore’s PC Engine replacement shells I found it much easier to create threads for the GameBit screws using the internal screws. Once the threads are cut, return them to their places and carry on.
That is a brilliant suggestion. Thank you!
"one and only snes cart" and lemming's didn't appear, not sure what this world has come to
@@petemc4190 I’m not going down the bin to get it 🗑️
Always thought the UK/JP snes was better looking than the US snes.
Me too. I think the US was redesigned to fit the tastes of the US market at the time.
The US and UK version have the better board, so my SFC consoles actually have US boards in them
1992 - crazy how late we got the SNES in the UK. Playstation arrived only 3 years later.
I remember the overlap clearly. That T-Rex demo blew my tiny mind.
nice shell 😊
I love it! Worth the effort.
Very nice. You have the right temperament to get all the details right for all of us to enjoy. I know you'll go back later and polish up those heat sinks and remove that dust. Beautiful build. Thanks for the memories!
Thank you! I know that I need to recap the board due to that damage, so I didn't bother cleaing the whole board or polishing the metal parts yet. I also want to instal a DFO mod but need to save some money first.
@@MarkFixesStuff All in good time for the next video!
It looks like a Mega Drive II
No Rob. This is much nicer because... umm... I say so!
I've got a brown Super Famicon that the front corner crumbled on when I took it to bits to clean it and I apparently put a bit too much of my wheatabix strength into and it turned to shards.
I may do that.
Three shredded wheat James?
@@MarkFixesStuff Yes. That's what I eat while my four toast in the toaster.
Yeah, I've seen quite a few Super Famicoms with brittle plastic like that. I hope someone comes out with a Master System shell, as some of those can become brittle, too (but at least they can't turn yellow)
I was walking past CeX today and they want £120 for a Master System 1. I really wammt one with the slot... but not that much!
@@MarkFixesStuff it might make for a fun video restoring all the lost functionality of the model 2 mastersystem with the mod kits available from consoles unleashed, you can even get a card catcher for playing those games on a model 2 as well
If there was a "watermelon" version of this like the Funtastic N64, I would so love that.
There's a red one in AE, but it might be a different shade than what you're talking about.
Ah, wait, that's for the US version... There's a purple one for the PAL though.
@@squidjam Where can I go to check out the red one?
Aliexpress. Search for snes custom shell
Looks like the screws might actually not be Philips, but JIS. Great video!
I can never really tell. I know the JIS screws sometimes have a dot, but that's where my observational skills end.
Whenever I watch these snes fix videos I always wonder if it was my old one, had it when it was released, had great fun with it for a few years then my brother got a playstation and it dwarfed it in gaming, so sold it to get more games for the playstation.
Tale as old as the wind. I have similar ones myself.
Yes! Let’s go!
Snes fans UNITE!
Very nice work, Mark... and pleased to hear you'll be doing the 60Hz dual-oscillator mod so that the machine can achieve its full potential with that flash cart! Plenty of other commenters have also mentioned other hardware quirks to look out for, but are you also going to add Voultar's SNES 2Chip RGB edge enhancer? Unless you've lucked out and have one of the super rare 1CHIP PAL SNES units!
I have been tweeting (x-ing??) Voultar about ordering in the UK. He says' it's going to be possible but I also know he's busy and I'm moving house soon I hope.
The silver [whisper] “back panel” [/whisper] screw threads into the modulator so no need to tack-solder. Just secure and solder normally.
Months ago I got a PAL-modded SFC from Thailand with an even worse top shell. What little was left crumbled to bits in my luggage. There wasn’t a single intact screw post and a capacitor even fell off the board. The audio was bad and I pretty much had no cartridge audio for Super Game Boy but that was also the case for the other SFC/SNES consoles I brought back (definitely wasn’t my SGBs).
Most of them have frequency mods with a replacement PAL RF modulator installed but this one had a region mod and a RGB to PAL CVBS encoder using the ubiquitous Sony CXA1145P. Still 60hz with no PAL RF. It was definitely a Japanese NTSC GPM-01 board.
Bloody hell. Of course that's a better idea with the modulator! Thank you!
The regional differences in those territories "in between" standards are often really interesting. I'm quite keen to do a switchless dual oscillator region mod for this one.
With the shell being smashed I didn't feel bad about replacing it.
LOL! Well, another tip to ensure power jack alignment is to pin it to the back panel with the adapter plug before soldering it down. Since you have a detachable plug you won’t even have a cord in the way!
Oh yeah:
These consoles were all gray market imports with warranty stickers by whoever did the conversion back in the day. Most were originally Japanese consoles but one was an American SHVC-CPU-01 that had clearly been through a fire (melted corner). It had the usual frequency mod and bodged-in PAL modulator but the interesting thing was the standard power jack coming out of the left side with a perfectly drilled hole. It was clear they had a drill jig and used the structure around the eject mechanism to consistently align the port before gluing.
Back then there was no 220v adapter available for the American consoles, leaving them no better option. The non-standard jack was intended to keep Americans from using an AC NES-002 plug. In Japan the FC/SFC adapter was DC. I don’t know why they didn’t just use a rectifier like PAL systems.
The real reason these replacement shells come with the back panel and LED/controller port module is so that they can fit American boards. Yeah: those parts don’t swap.
Very curious which countries have the most "cheaper" plastics used in their making both Nintendo systems & games? I ask because some nes & snes consoles naturally biodegrade differently - some turn really yellow & crack so obviously much easier then others.
I think it's more like differnt factories had made differnt parts and they were combined. I may be wrong though.
@@MarkFixesStuff makes sense. The flip door on 1st NES's will sometimes look a different aged yellow & crack easier huh? Sure you've seen em. But some whole systems will look like they're in later stages of bio-degrading which made me wonder if they those were made in Mexico or Taiwan etc, you know, certain area's that make parts/systems, are their ways of knowing land they were manufactured & has been addressed in any detail? The composite materials used on some are very subpar- be good to know if you can know by serial #'s the good the bad (the led based 😂) the ugly made systems for each generation? Like the "Heavy sixers" (Atari 2600's) which were made in California (don't remember the town but gave 1(: ) are great 1's to score, particle board composites but made like a brick shithouse! Last the ages 😂
Could the controller be fixed with the 8bitdo replacement PCB? It would be cool to have matching shells for the controllers 😍
Funny you say this. I was considering a 8bitdo grey wireless controller!
a.aliexpress.com/_Eu80GP7
I like that the shell makes the system accept US SNES carts. So I could buy this to replace my US system shell too. That's probably why it comes with a controller port replacement. The US LED light is on the front, and wouldn't work.
Maybe? I’ve not got a US SNES. I’m not sure the motherboard is the same shape? It is wider for the squarer US carts for sure
@@MarkFixesStuff The MB for the US system is identical to the JPN boards. Only the cart slot and cart shape where altered to region lock the systems. The LED location is the only electrical alteration done between the regions.
That’s a lovely looking case! Well worth the effort. Will you be rescuing the serial number and ID stickers from the bottom of the old case (or making new ones)?
@@geezerdiamond I suspect that new ones from Etsy might be in order.
The Japanese boards require the whole back peg to be clipped off it's a problem with different boards revisions being slightly different
I think the shell is great and much better quality than some other replacement shell kits for other consoles. Things like you mention here are going to crop up I guess. I can't moan too much!
You think is possible to use this shell for a SNES? Mine's og shell looks bad after a bad retro bright try, now I want to give it a nice SFC look
I have read that the boards are actually the same shape? I don't have a US version, but I would be really shocked if they made a different shaped PCB just for the US market!
Feel free to make use of your big tip anytime. Got to get the job done properly ;)
The bigger tool for the deeper screws.
Normally, I'm not big on case replacements, but yes, that was a requirement on this occasion.
That also brings me to the fact that those things must be near indestructible. Despite the ubiquity of the things, it is the only game console that I've never witnessed a broken example of. The worst I've had to deal with, not counting actual physical destruction with a hammer or something, in all my years and probably 100s of SNES consoles I've dealt with is a dirty cartridge slot.
Seems to be a lot of CPU failures these days. I've not really looked into it a lot but it's what I've read.
The Two Barrel Jack Connectors I suspect are slightly different and are included because one is for the PAL SNES and the other one is for the SUper Famicom.
That would be my guess...
I genuinely think they are identical. No idea why there are two.
@@MarkFixesStuff oh, the Super Famicoms and PAL SNES Plugs are in fact almost identical and just checked, the outer diameter is the same...
THe difference is that one has a smaller nibble than the other one...
THere is an easy trick to verify that: take out your Mega Drive 1 Power Plug (such as the 1602-18 and plug it in. If it fits, its the Famicom one (and for Super Famicoms in EU that is a legitimate way to use them), if it doesn't its the SNES one. The other way around sadly works (=SNES AC Plug) works in both, kinda, somewhat...
Didn't had any issues with the same shell you have, on that little post but my board was a 1chip-02 guess they are little different.
Some report the screw post in the back next to the multi out is against the board, didn't had these issues.
About the 60hz mod, it's not that easy with these legs you need to lift on ppu 1 leg 24 and ppu 2 leg 30, im sure with your skills it's easy, you can just solder a switch to them with a 2.2k resistor to get the correct picture, they switch from ground to 5v (3.3v ish) ground is 60hz and 5v is 50hz.
I placed the switch for hz switch in the hole where the RF used to be, i removed that thing.
And you need to disable pin 4 from regio chip next to the power switch pole.
There are alot of tutorials online, but it's rewarding to use us carts and japanese carts to your pal system.
Hope this was helpful.
Very helpful! Thanks so much for taking the time to tell me these tips.
I was thinking of going for one of these: github.com/borti4938/SNES_MultiRegion_with_DeJitter_QID - Although I might just buy one becuase the parts and shipping make a self build expensive for one unit,
Oh, we know who did it, don't we...Mark? 😊
Genuine answer is that Alan Hammerton (editor on Fusion Magazine) gave it to me in this state. I think it was from a job lot of "junk consoles" and he was clearing out his workshop. He also gave me a couple of spares boards with various bits missing. I'm balming Sonic though.
Ok... 😊
Speaking of a couple of tools at 10:20, where are Terry and Dave during all this hard work ?
They're helping Kim Justice move home.
@@blitzerblazinoah6838 No. That's a cover story. They;re in Turkish Jail... again.
@@MarkFixesStuff That makes more sense.
Of course this would involve Mark fingering his slot...
Every crevice needs cleaning 🧽
this model needs C59 replaced with a bipolar equivalent to prevent damage to the board as it often leaks and kills the cpu, just for when you get around to it :)
@@SparksNZeros Thank you for this information. I’m actually ordering the caps myself rather than getting a kit.
I would take on the challenge to super glue / epoxy those broken pieces & fix the shell.
@@Mrshoujo I’m waiting here with the glue pot!
17:45 The most frightening game I ever played in my youth.
@@frankowalker4662 the original survival horror!!!!
@@MarkFixesStuff Definately. I still play it on my (nearly) original 81.
Nice. Can the top plates of the shell be removed / changed like the original? I think it would look good with the original top plates on it.
@@colincurrie9151 Yes. Done people have done that. Obviously the original here is too manky.
Nice shell. I think its a shame to cover up the board. Definitely consider a traco instead of 7805 and ditch the heatsink and RF shield.
Considering this...
I just bought some Vessel Megadora 900 screwdrivers, which are JIS ( Japanese Industry Standard )
Maybe they would be good for working on these consoles ?
They do seem to be a lot more grippier than standard Philips screwdrivers
do they have a ridged tip?
@@MarkFixesStuff Yes
it would be really nice if y ou could get that style shell that worked with the US style SNES, I hate the way the US model looks compared to the Euro / Japanese case.
I agree ☝️
personally I would have painted the heat sinks a Flat Black to they didn't stand out so much,
I am planning to either polish them to a high shine ot use a modern TRACO instead of the 7805 so I can just omit them entirely. The shielding at the front of the consle is likely not needed apart from 1990's RF regulations
.
I do love a smoky black shell. looks so good. Nice job, Mark
Cheers Bobbus. So nineties!
I don't understand these different coloured shells/cases. I'll stick with my unyellowed correct grey Super Famicom, thanks!
Yes. I prefer originals too. I’ve been gathering up damaged or poor condition consoles for these type of videos but wouldn’t discard a good shell. I’ve even been salvaging any decent buttons and panels.
Any tips on how to find unyellowed consoles and prevent them going that way?
Was that a Boys of Summer reference there at the end?
There’s a few pop culture references strewn about my videos! Don’t tell Don Henley. He’ll sue me.
Why did the US get a different looking SNES? The PAL version looks so much nicer.
'90s 'tude.
The PAL version is just the Japanese Super Famicom shell so I suppose they must have felt that it wouldn’t do well in the US market? I agree by the way. I think the Japanese and PAL system styling is much more sophisticated looking and the US version looks more like a toy. Maybe that was the point?
I think those screw are JIS, not phillips. They used to use them in Japanese RC stuff back in the day.
I said to another comment that I can't really tell the difference. I know I had trouble with the supplied screwdriver.
@@MarkFixesStuff JIS screws all have a dot impressed in one corner for anybody that doesn't want to closely study the shape. When you look at JIS and Phillips next to each other, the JIS looks harder edged and more precise. Easiest tells are how sharply the fins intersect in the center of the head pattern (the radius of Phillips is much larger), the sharpness of the bottom ends of the fins (Phillips tapers to a sharper bottom edge while JIS lacks the taper), and the shape of the center point (Phillips has 10 degree angle, JIS if flat).
The cart socket might have been over engineered as a way to easily replace it, probably ptsd from the nes socket problem.
Do you have a link to the case on ally express
Hey, this is the link to the item (not affiliate): a.aliexpress.com/_EyhCpI5 Thank you for watching 👀
Thanks just order one just under £40 uk pounds
My pre-order was about £46 so that's a good price.
You think THAT'S ridiculously over engineered? Don't open a switch controller, ever. Absolute nightmare it is.
I’ve done the kids switch controllers a few times due to stick drift. Yeah. Nintendo do love a puzzle!
@@MarkFixesStuff I've known complex 3D puzzles that are less likely to just destroy itself, at least puzzles are designed with the process being reversible in mind.
Also, late model SNES/SFC consoles do not have a removable cart slot. I’m not sure about RGB-01/02 but APU-01 and 1chip revisions definitely have the simpler cartridge slot.
I opened a couple joycons with the intent of smashing together some that had different issues to make a single functional joycon.
I abandoned that particular endeavor after the insides.
Choking ferrets? Is that legal?
Only in cases where it's not weasely avoided. Then it's stoatally OK.
A USB c mod and HDMI mod and led lights mod and active memory capacity upgrade
Tell me more abbout this
Active Memory Capacity Upgrade?
@@MarkFixesStuff
A battery bro to charge up and save the saves like the pokemon roms
Ohh yeah
Like a Super Boy Cartridge
But the battery is rechargeable
NEW CHROME AVAILABLE
Can’t be that new because it’s said that for months.
TOP
"Violence it is from now on."
Pretty much sums up the Warring Twenties.
Unfortunately yes.
Maybe instead of snipping the locating peg sanding the peg to be smaller would have made more.
A far better method of removing multi-pin connectors or other parts with multiple soldered pins is to bridge the pins with a piece of thick copper wire and then to apply heat to the wire using a capable iron with fresh solder at all contact points. The part will often fall out by gravity alone. I keep a spool of household 20A (12 AWG) copper wire at my bench for this purpose.
Also, for cleaning contacts you'll want to look up DeoxIT products from CAIG Laboratories. As used by professionals. WD-40 is rubbish so I would have little trust in any of their products.
You should get your hands on a Hong Kong SNES PAL Version console. A very interesting official variant.
So 60hz PAL??
@@MarkFixesStuff A Japanese Super Famicom with PAL SNES branding and a 50/60 Hz switch by the back cable jacks.
I don't get why use RF shielding in a clear case. that shielding is only there because the fcc.
Did the Bros Smash it?
@@zero0ryn it was a Sonic boom 💥
✝️ Subbed/Liked! Great VID! God bless in ‘24! ✝️
Thanks and welcome!
8bitdo have a wireless controller that is the same clear colour
@@dylbob9000 I literally found one of those on AliExpress and ordered it yesterday!!! Great minds etc!! I think it’s going to look great! Still need decals though…
13:40
Where are the 3d print files
Do you really want them? I could upload them somewhere.
@@MarkFixesStuff I do I can use that
www.tinkercad.com/things/7hMLewWecAH-mfs-super-nintendo-slot-cleaning-set
👍👍👍👍🕹🕹🕹🕹🎮🎮🎮🖥🖥🖥
Thanks Ron!
Get an Analogue Super Nt instead.
Sounds new?
@@MarkFixesStuff new six years ago, discontinued last year. Best SNES going.
@@blitzerblazinoah6838 I'm a bit weird and tend to not be that interested in the newer retro stuff. I think the fragility of the older things appeals to me more than playing them I suppose?
That’s a funny way to spell MiSTer!
You kids with your new fangled toys. Why, back in MY day etc etc
Think of the SNES as a Mega Drive for girls.
@@blitzerblazinoah6838 so… better then??
You might be right, it has more colors and better audio than the md.
You might be right, it has more colors and better audio than the md.
Just use an old credit card or gift card instead of wasting time printing anything. Use t-shirt as a cloth on the credit card.
I don't understand why this is so hard but it seems to be a UK thing... it does explain why they get so excited when an item ships with a 4 cent screwdriver. I suspect that is the sum total of all the tools in their flat.