i have a breakfast bar has few big cracks my question is... can i use spray foam to filll say the bottom half of the crack im assuming it will seal up the bottom nicely too (ill still tape the bottom just in case) then i only need to epoxy the top half (will be a black epoxy, adding black food coloring to it ) so wont see threw it and this way i don't need as much epoxy ? will this work ?
do you have a process for sanding down the epoxy after you have filled the cracks while keeping it clear and glossy if you dont use a tint? and how long does it need to cure before starting the sanding process?
U have to tint the epoxy and fine sawdust before applying. It cannot be stained. Wait 24 hours or so to sand. 3 or 5 minute epoxy is really a full 24 hrs to cure. I like 5 minute because it will only flow for that 5 minute so is easy to work with. Using white glue and fine saw dust can be stained just mix a slurry or pour some glue in crack and work in sawdust. White glue will probably match best. Hope this helps. I am just a furniture mover and not a furniture maker. I use charcoal dust or ground coffee smashed fine between my fingers to tint epoxy. The charcoal with Emery cloth to get fine particles.
I used some epoxy and it dried clear, sort of like Amber, and that is what I wanted. As I sanded it became dark and cloudy looking...any idea how I can avoid this in the future? Some details: I let it cure over night, temperature in my 2ork area was in the mid 50s, I applied it to yew,
You have an A-size resin and a B-size hardener. That much hardener catalyzes a gallon of resin. Seeing this might confuse people to buy equal size containers instead of correctly proportional sets labeled A or B
I have several small round slabs of walnut, all of which need to be planed/sanded, but they also have a "V" shaped split on the side (looks like a skinny pie piece missing)...I want to make clocks out of these slabs - what is the best way to fill in those "V" shaped cracks?
I had the same issue with some small round slabs, I just made the missing pie slices straight edged on a band saw, then cut a "wedge" to fill the void and glued it in place after a little trimming with a hand chisel - perfect rounds :)
Great video. Short and to the point. Exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for making this!!
Brilliant tips. Thank you.
Thank you Sir for taking the time to make your video, It was very helpful
I tried it on the table top that I am working on. It worked very well for me. Thanks!
i have a breakfast bar has few big cracks my question is... can i use spray foam to filll say the bottom half of the crack im assuming it will seal up the bottom nicely too (ill still tape the bottom just in case) then i only need to epoxy the top half (will be a black epoxy, adding black food coloring to it ) so wont see threw it and this way i don't need as much epoxy ?
will this work ?
Will this epoxy fill still be food safe on a charcuterie board ?
do you have a process for sanding down the epoxy after you have filled the cracks while keeping it clear and glossy if you dont use a tint? and how long does it need to cure before starting the sanding process?
U have to tint the epoxy and fine sawdust before applying. It cannot be stained. Wait 24 hours or so to sand. 3 or 5 minute epoxy is really a full 24 hrs to cure. I like 5 minute because it will only flow for that 5 minute so is easy to work with. Using white glue and fine saw dust can be stained just mix a slurry or pour some glue in crack and work in sawdust. White glue will probably match best. Hope this helps. I am just a furniture mover and not a furniture maker. I use charcoal dust or ground coffee smashed fine between my fingers to tint epoxy. The charcoal with Emery cloth to get fine particles.
Z.
great, how did you bend the shelves? :D
I used some epoxy and it dried clear, sort of like Amber, and that is what I wanted. As I sanded it became dark and cloudy looking...any idea how I can avoid this in the future? Some details: I let it cure over night, temperature in my 2ork area was in the mid 50s, I applied it to yew,
when's the 2 part coming out
what type of modeling clay did you use? the kind that dries? or doesn't dry?
Do you ever have any problems with West System Epoxy if you don't mix it well?
Super hard and easy to finish
You have an A-size resin and a B-size hardener. That much hardener catalyzes a gallon of resin. Seeing this might confuse people to buy equal size containers instead of correctly proportional sets labeled A or B
Does the epoxy sand well and polish if necessary?How does it react to applied finishes,such as polyurethane?
Thank you very much
Trent Wilson is
I have several small round slabs of walnut, all of which need to be planed/sanded, but they also have a "V" shaped split on the side (looks like a skinny pie piece missing)...I want to make clocks out of these slabs - what is the best way to fill in those "V" shaped cracks?
I had the same issue with some small round slabs, I just made the missing pie slices straight edged on a band saw, then cut a "wedge" to fill the void and glued it in place after a little trimming with a hand chisel - perfect rounds :)
What about a 2 inch hole in a drumkit shell that goes all the way through?
where did you get the dye
Others have said it - tough to listen to; not sure if the problem is the presenter or the sound or both.
It will be good to mention that max depth of the single fill can't exceed 1/4" with West System due to exotherm causing bubbles or smoke.
Great video, but ease up on the compression/limiting on the audio, so horrible to listen to this.
+Paul dat reverb doe
SIlicone,,,strands first squeezed out on wax paper and left to dry,,pulls out easily.It plugs and epoxy doesn't stick to it.
The shelf behind you is drooping. OCD check.
You need three brackets for a shelf that size, made out of mdf ...should have read the instructions.
Awful sound, echo is very bad.
*SNIFF*
all the breathing and snorting noises made this clip irritating
takethaheedfurashite
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