I've built the diffs with XO-1 parts in my slash 4x4, it's just so much stronger. It's amazing how the I-beam keeps it all together. Good choice. I'm running 1/8 power system and so far diffs have been bulletproof. Cheers boy's 👍
Good to know! Have you had any issues with the ring and pinion stripping? We've heard that the XO-1 internals may stop the ring and pinion from stripping, so we will have to see.
@@traxrc I've put 12 to 15 packs through my diffs on stock gears with no issues, just with the added parts mentioned in your video. And I am running 2.8 Badlands , only issue I had was stripping 12mm proline rims out so I put the 17mm Tekno hub kit on as I've got Tekno driveline and changed to 17mm proline F11 rims and that's been flawless since.. I think once you go above the stock velinion system the 12mm are a weak point. Cheers 👍
Weird...we've had nothing but issues with the stock ring and pinion... in the next video we upgrade them so stay tuned for that. As for the 12mm hexes... we've never had any issues after upgrading to aluminum, but we can see that a bigger powerplant can cause issues. Thanks for watching and always commenting! It means a lot 😊
@@mickd8188 I went with 17mm adapters as well & love all the wheel & tire options. Since I'm also running the 6mm XO-1 axles I picked up some Arrma 14mm hexes when I took some measurements & realized they'd fit. Now I'll be set to use any wheel & tire combo I can find a deal on. Currently running Arrma Typhon wheels and I'm looking at a set of 14mm drive Granite wheels for playing in the snow. Plenty of brand new Arrma take-offs out there pretty cheap.
Did this mod to my Slash 4×4 over the summer using Hot Racing aluminum housings front & rear. The housings may have been overkill but I haven't noticed any leakage out of the HR housings like I used to see with the stock plastic housings. Great upgrade!
@@traxrc I found out the hard way they don't like parts cleaner, they swell & won't fit back in their bores. One of my stockers was shredded when I took it apart. I only found pieces of it. I still needed to buy 2 #3978 plastic housings because I needed the metal backing plates that support the spider gears & tie into the ring gears, so I got extra replament seals. The Hot Racing housings required those plates unlike the stock Slash housings.
With cracks you have to drill 1/8" holes on both ends of the cracks. Then grind out all cracks. Then you can weld it up, then repeat on the other side of the cracks once that is done. Then starts the welding. When all welding done put a special made fire resistant blanket, to allow the metal to cool slowly also it's prevent the metal becoming brittle
Thanks! We probably won't get any Arrma RC's just because we have other things to spend money on, but we know people with Arrma's that we feature on the channel.
I actually just completed my limitless and my infraction, I also upgraded my typhon mega with a castle sidewinder 4 system and geared that up ,sorry I've been working and the weather has been crazy lately but as soon as spring breaks I will have running videos I promise.
I just replace the internals out of the XO-1, not the entire diff. The black spiral cut gear is the ring gear which I ended up installing at a later point as well.
They gold up in the XO-1 on 6S, but you dont bash that car. I personally wouldnt run on 6S with these, but I dont even know if these will work in the original E-Revo
I have a question so I have some hiMoto differentials and I thought about using them just getting the big gear and that small pinion that goes in the differential plastic housing and getting the front rear pinion gear ring gear do you think it would work and if it will be cheaper instead of paying $35 for the whole rear differential housings paying another 35 for the front differential housing complete
Never heard of HiMoto before, so I honestly don't know. I wouldn't advise it being that it is a cheaper brand. Changing out the entire diff is going to be an upgrade.
Thanks! Our setup on gearing is all stock, besides a 13T pinion. As for the tires, they are just regular Trenchers premounted on the Raid rims, and for shocks we don't really have a good answer to that because we just upgrade the Traxxas Ultra Shocks on all of our RCs with Aluminum caps and stronger shafts. If you want completely different shocks though, we've heard that the Traxxas GTR Shocks are really good.
Has anyone have issues with diff gears binding in one spot after this upgrade iv pulled it apart a few times new bearings still binding any idea ? Thanks
You have to install both the front and rear gears at the same time because they have different ratios than the stock ones. Also, make sure they sit very flat against the flood cup so they aren’t crooked. I had to put them together a few times to make sure it sat straight.
Those are unnecessary because you want to have one weak spot in your drivetrain that will break. For us, that is the spur gear. It's a cheap, easy to replace part so that's why we won't upgrade it.
@@traxrc Saw the whole video later.....and it seemed you said that you will upgrade to XO-1 Ring and Pinion soon. For the safety of the drivetrain the slipper-Clutch should be enough.
What’s the advantage to using the I beam and those little tabs? Is it like a limited slip or something now or does it still perform the exact same? I built a slash 4x4 from scratch and have both I beams laying in a bag I can throw on.
That just the character of open differentials. You can put thicker fluid in the diffs, but I'd recommend changing your driving style, because it shouldn't just do that all of the time unless you make it by using too much throttle.
I would stay away from a center locker for bashing, but a center diff is okay. Slipper is still the best setup for this RC imo though. What are you wanting a center locker for?
I'm used to my dbxl having lockers, one less thing to break. As for center diffs would the traxxas performance be best suited? What about the xo-1 upgraded diff cups for front and rear
The Stampede 4x4 really isn’t made for a locker in the center, performance wise. The slipper allows for slight movement of the clutch to cushion the drivetrain in extremely hard impacts and hard acceleration. If your used to a center locker, I’d stick with the stock slipper setup because a center diff will allow the front and rear to move independently. But yes, the Traxxas center diff is the best choice. As for the XO-1 Diffcups, keep in mind you,lol need the internal gears and the longer screws too. I’ve been running them in my Stampede since this video was released and have had no issues whatsoever. Definitely would recommend.
I've built the diffs with XO-1 parts in my slash 4x4, it's just so much stronger. It's amazing how the I-beam keeps it all together. Good choice. I'm running 1/8 power system and so far diffs have been bulletproof.
Cheers boy's 👍
Good to know! Have you had any issues with the ring and pinion stripping? We've heard that the XO-1 internals may stop the ring and pinion from stripping, so we will have to see.
@@traxrc I've put 12 to 15 packs through my diffs on stock gears with no issues, just with the added parts mentioned in your video. And I am running 2.8 Badlands , only issue I had was stripping 12mm proline rims out so I put the 17mm Tekno hub kit on as I've got Tekno driveline and changed to 17mm proline F11 rims and that's been flawless since.. I think once you go above the stock velinion system the 12mm are a weak point.
Cheers 👍
Weird...we've had nothing but issues with the stock ring and pinion... in the next video we upgrade them so stay tuned for that.
As for the 12mm hexes... we've never had any issues after upgrading to aluminum, but we can see that a bigger powerplant can cause issues.
Thanks for watching and always commenting! It means a lot 😊
@@mickd8188 I went with 17mm adapters as well & love all the wheel & tire options. Since I'm also running the 6mm XO-1 axles I picked up some Arrma 14mm hexes when I took some measurements & realized they'd fit. Now I'll be set to use any wheel & tire combo I can find a deal on. Currently running Arrma Typhon wheels and I'm looking at a set of 14mm drive Granite wheels for playing in the snow. Plenty of brand new Arrma take-offs out there pretty cheap.
Did this mod to my Slash 4×4 over the summer using Hot Racing aluminum housings front & rear. The housings may have been overkill but I haven't noticed any leakage out of the HR housings like I used to see with the stock plastic housings.
Great upgrade!
Awesome! The seal on the stock housings are kinda funky to get it right, but everytime I open mine up I have fluid still in there.
@@traxrc I found out the hard way they don't like parts cleaner, they swell & won't fit back in their bores. One of my stockers was shredded when I took it apart. I only found pieces of it. I still needed to buy 2 #3978 plastic housings because I needed the metal backing plates that support the spider gears & tie into the ring gears, so I got extra replament seals. The Hot Racing housings required those plates unlike the stock Slash housings.
With cracks you have to drill 1/8" holes on both ends of the cracks.
Then grind out all cracks.
Then you can weld it up,
then repeat on the other side of the cracks once that is done.
Then starts the welding.
When all welding done put a special made fire resistant blanket, to allow the metal to cool slowly also it's prevent the metal becoming brittle
What r u even talking about?? Try welding any metal rc parts and tell me how that goes. You’ll melt right thru them.
Your website is good. I wish you could have some more arrma RC's like the typoon.
Thanks! We probably won't get any Arrma RC's just because we have other things to spend money on, but we know people with Arrma's that we feature on the channel.
I actually just completed my limitless and my infraction, I also upgraded my typhon mega with a castle sidewinder 4 system and geared that up ,sorry I've been working and the weather has been crazy lately but as soon as spring breaks I will have running videos I promise.
Cool! That RC sounds like its fun to drive!
Another great video! I have the XO's ordered.
Thanks! You’ll love them!
where do you get those shock protection please
Honestly I can’t remember it’s probably proline or rpm sorry.
Can you or have you done a video on, which parts are interchangeable through out the Traxxas line?
I don’t have one, but almost all parts are interchangeable in some way. There are only a few exceptions
The original xo-1 diffs are black and spiral cut ,I own 2 xo-1 's those look like slash 4x4 diffs
I just replace the internals out of the XO-1, not the entire diff. The black spiral cut gear is the ring gear which I ended up installing at a later point as well.
I saw that video as well good work my brother 💪
Thanks! 👊
What does the diff do? Sorry I just got back into RC after 25 years. Is thst the thing that distributes more or less power to each wheel? Ty
It transmits power from the center driveshaft to the axle shafts and wheels. It also distributes more power to the wheel with less traction.
@@traxrc thank you! I figured it was similar to an automobile diff. Great content man!
Yep! Same thing!
Can I run one upgraded rear with one stock in front without any risks ?
I think I answered this at the end of the video, but no you can’t. They have different gear ratios.
The rear question is can they hold up in the original Erevo brushless edition?? On 6s
They gold up in the XO-1 on 6S, but you dont bash that car. I personally wouldnt run on 6S with these, but I dont even know if these will work in the original E-Revo
What is the benefit of the case and seal upgrades. I got the upgraded internals awhile ago andnstuck with the stock case and seals should i upgrade?
Just adds a lot more rigidity to the differential. I think it's worth it
@@traxrc ok thanks
No problem!
I have a question so I have some hiMoto differentials and I thought about using them just getting the big gear and that small pinion that goes in the differential plastic housing and getting the front rear pinion gear ring gear do you think it would work and if it will be cheaper instead of paying $35 for the whole rear differential housings paying another 35 for the front differential housing complete
Never heard of HiMoto before, so I honestly don't know. I wouldn't advise it being that it is a cheaper brand. Changing out the entire diff is going to be an upgrade.
Do you know if there is a part number just for the pinion gear for the differential for the front and the rear of the Traxxas stampede 4 x 4
5379X and 6879.
Whats ur set up on gearing? Are those the belted trenchers? What shocks do you recomend to replace the stock shocks? Great vid.
Thanks! Our setup on gearing is all stock, besides a 13T pinion. As for the tires, they are just regular Trenchers premounted on the Raid rims, and for shocks we don't really have a good answer to that because we just upgrade the Traxxas Ultra Shocks on all of our RCs with Aluminum caps and stronger shafts. If you want completely different shocks though, we've heard that the Traxxas GTR Shocks are really good.
Can you do the same to the front?
I only bought 1 set.
Yep! Just buy 2 of each and it is all the same!
Cool upgrades!!! I'm getting ready to swap springs on my mini slash and MERV!!!
Nice! Stiffer or softer springs?
@@traxrc Stiffer to raise it up a bit. It drags quite a bit on the grass
Yeah...all 1/16 Traxxas RCs drag the rear end under power.
JD'S RC'S I put in the 1/16 summit springs, they lift it well but are alittle to stiff, they bounce alittle bit lol
Has anyone have issues with diff gears binding in one spot after this upgrade iv pulled it apart a few times new bearings still binding any idea ?
Thanks
You have to install both the front and rear gears at the same time because they have different ratios than the stock ones. Also, make sure they sit very flat against the flood cup so they aren’t crooked. I had to put them together a few times to make sure it sat straight.
you did not change the diff-spur and pinion to X0-1-parts?
Those are unnecessary because you want to have one weak spot in your drivetrain that will break. For us, that is the spur gear. It's a cheap, easy to replace part so that's why we won't upgrade it.
@@traxrc Saw the whole video later.....and it seemed you said that you will upgrade to XO-1 Ring and Pinion soon. For the safety of the drivetrain the slipper-Clutch should be enough.
I keep my slipper pretty tight because it will always back out on me otherwise, even with loctite.
What’s the advantage to using the I beam and those little tabs? Is it like a limited slip or something now or does it still perform the exact same? I built a slash 4x4 from scratch and have both I beams laying in a bag I can throw on.
They just make the diff much stronger. Doesn't affect anything with performance. Make sure you have the correct diff cup or they will not fit.
@@traxrc ok. Thanks.
Wonder if i can do this to my rustler front and back. ? I ordered everything just to try it 🤪
If it is the Rustler 4x4 you can. The Slash 4x4, Stampede 4x4, and Rustler 4x4 all share the same diff internals. Thanks for watching!
Yeah its a 4x4,.thanks for the video, i havent seen videos like this around good job
Thanks!
I was thinking of doing this. Did this work out nice? Is it worth doing? Thanks for feedback.
100% worth it!
what's the difference in the stock verses the XO1.
XO-1 has more supports than stock. It's built for more abuse.
Bruh i have a stamped and on out brushless on it and becuase I was wondering when you turn and gas it little the other tire spins a lot I need help
That just the character of open differentials. You can put thicker fluid in the diffs, but I'd recommend changing your driving style, because it shouldn't just do that all of the time unless you make it by using too much throttle.
Think this upgrade would handle. Center locker. Brushless setup
I would stay away from a center locker for bashing, but a center diff is okay. Slipper is still the best setup for this RC imo though. What are you wanting a center locker for?
I'm used to my dbxl having lockers, one less thing to break. As for center diffs would the traxxas performance be best suited? What about the xo-1 upgraded diff cups for front and rear
The Stampede 4x4 really isn’t made for a locker in the center, performance wise. The slipper allows for slight movement of the clutch to cushion the drivetrain in extremely hard impacts and hard acceleration. If your used to a center locker, I’d stick with the stock slipper setup because a center diff will allow the front and rear to move independently. But yes, the Traxxas center diff is the best choice.
As for the XO-1 Diffcups, keep in mind you,lol need the internal gears and the longer screws too. I’ve been running them in my Stampede since this video was released and have had no issues whatsoever. Definitely would recommend.
I figured if cups are upgrade for xo-1 why not add that while doing the gears.Thanks alot man
Ya you have the do the XO-1 gears and the diff cup at the same time because the gears don’t fit in the stock diff cup.
What dog bones are those?
Tekno RC M6