BMW E90 8hp Lamik Kit Torque Converter Mod N57 - N54
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ต.ค. 2024
- BMW E90 8hp Lamik Kit Torque Converter Mod N57 - N54
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Andrew, make sure you check for end float with the torque convertor when you go to install it. Bolt the box up snug, and move the convertor back and forth. If you don't get a couple of mm of play, then your clearances are wrong, if it's more than say 5mm of play then you need more material added to the washers on the flex plate. I'd also check how far the nose of the convertor goes into the end of the crank, make sure that's of acceptable distance, you don't want that sitting on the same line as the flex plate. Preferrably it will sit in front of that.
Also, Rocket Rod from Wholesale Automatics would be a good one to talk to about the torque convertor, I can't remember where he is based but he is here on YT. He would know who to turn to to get yours modified if needed, or what might be a better fit for your application. A second had unit from a petrol might be cheaper to source than modifying what you have, but then again the diesel one will be stronger and might just light the tyres up lower in the rev range, which is where your right foot comes into play.
I probably didn't make it clear enough, but lamik provide all the information about TQ options, alignment etc.
I had the same concern about where the TC is located in comparison to the normal position in the transmission. To properly assess this issue, the difference in the distance between the face of the flexplate and the block for the N57 and N54 would need to be known as this could be similar to the thickness of the adapter plate which looks to be around 20mm. Preferably, this distance on the N57 is less than the N54.
Let's go closer and closer🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲🇯🇲we lockd in and Ready #teamn54
Awesome 😎 I can’t wait to see it on your 4.6is in all wheel drive form.
new life for n54 awesome job bro 👏
Currently Single turbo interested in doing this swap. Any recommends as far as why these aren’t recommended for big turbo applications? And what is recommended
The only possible downside is converter lock up. These only like to spin to 4000rpm on the transbrake. So it will only be an issue if you want to launch at the drag strip above 4000rpm.
andrew are you going to get it re balanced? it probably would not hurt too as at high rpm the centrifical force will be insane and if it is out a gram or 2 it will vibrate like hell and not good for the transmission and it most likely cost less than a couple hundred bucks to get balanced cheers glenn
No, not getting it balanced.
Make sure there is no vibration after that welding 😉
Nice progress guys. Dutch regards, Nico.
It will be mm perfect once crank comes into play
So which converter you recommend for big turbo apps! And when you are saying big turbo apps what hp rated turbo would this be?
It’s depends on the engine and the turbo. This was my first 8 speed install. I’ve done hundreds now. The converter will be an issue if your engine doesn’t make much to down low.
Currently the best people to speak to about converters are pure drivetrain solutions.
Did you leave the standard bmw tourqe converter threaded bungs in the tourqe converter ?
yes
Hope it all works as planned 🤞🏻
This is isn't modding. This is Arts and Crafts in Hell. Good job on the soldering last clip just as bad ass as your CAS box hacking and soldering. . Seems like someone should be shipping modded/Tested 8hp units, just a suggestion.....
Not a bad suggestion, that mod on the DCT is a right nightmare and quite a few companies in europe do offer it as a service. That said the 8hp should be pretty easy when you know what you are doing. I am looking forward to doing my second one, which i will document.
@@ZeroTo60Tube a random guy at home has to take the chance that he bricks the unit. for the reliable higher power build. I'd certainly pay ~500 usd premium for a package vs a kit. I have been soldering since childhood and that board was hard to watch. Same with those CAS pins which is right where I off ramped on my own car....nope not gonna brick my CAS with solder.
Why did you choose not to use the 6 holes already present (separate from the threaded N57 flexplate holes) on the N57 torque converter? They line up with the n54 flexplate and even though the holes are larger than the holes you drilled here, it would appear welding the washer and nuts at those locations would result in the same strength.
I'm in the middle of this modification...hope someone can answer it. Love the channel!
The N57 convertor holes do not line up with the N54 flex plate, they are about 5-10mm off (from memory). You can see in this video the holes we drill are closer to the centre of the converter. The washers are purely for converter spacing btw.
@@ZeroTo60Tube Thanks for the quick response! Right - will try and make this question more clear. I'm not talking about the N57 threaded holes, I'm talking about the 6 other non-threaded holes.
Since I can't upload a photo myself - @1:52 onwards in your video, the holes I'm talking about are to the right (counter-clockwise) of the washers/spacers you welded vs the N57 threaded holes are to the left (clockwise position). These holes (not the existing N57 threaded holes) line up with the N54 flexplate bolts (its sitting on my bench here bolted up), so it appears that you could avoid drilling altogether and use those holes for welding the spacers and nuts after centering the N54 flexplate.
I'm just trying to make sure I'm not missing anything. (Lamik didn't send me any instructions or info but just linked me to this video...)
ill send you an a90/340i torque converter, they are cheap here!
What sort of money is cheap?
@@ZeroTo60Tube i bought mine for $175, have 2 of them, i just need to pick the extra up from the shop.
have you mounted it in the tranmission yet to make sure that you have the proper clearance? when the bloack is bolted to the transmission and the converter is aligned properly there should be a gap of about 3-6mm between the converter plate and the flex plate and should be able to move freely BEFORE putting bolts in., then you install the bolts and torque it, If you dont have that little bit of clearance between the flex plate and the converter it damages the oil pump in the trans. im curious how thick lamiks adaptapter plate is, he must have calculated for that alignment in his engineering, as will i since im using a different adapter.
@@ZeroTo60Tube i emailed you, we can talk about the converter. ill send it to you, but we have to figure out some math first. my email explains with pictures.
i sent you a new email regarding the converters!
when you put the converters side by side on level surface, the n57 converter is taller, but when you put them in the transmission the a90 converter is only 2mm deeper into the bell housing. im worried that the pilot shaft on the a90 converter isnt long enough because 1, it sits 2mm deeper into the bell housing, and 2, the pilot shaft on the n57 converter is clearly longer than a90. it appears that the pilot shaft is about 5mm longer on the n57 housing so im wondering if im going to need to get a crank hub spacer (titan motorsports a90 crank hub spacer for their flex plate will space it 10mm and has same 8 bolt pattern as n54 , same pilot etc) or if it will just fit due to the exess depth of the crank pocket etc. oh yeah, the a90 converter weighs about 1/3 what the n57 converter does LMAO maybe even less!
Sorry gotta another question. I heard you can adjust the lockup time or stall speed on the transmission with the controller itself is that true?
Ohhh I know of the max rpm for transbrake. But haven’t delved deeper yet
You can download the tuner pro files from lamiks forum and a base map and have a play around
Yeah I'm not a tuner so I'd have no idea I'm just wondering would getting a built higher srall TC converter for the 2jz will turbo be necessary for turbo spool on the street
@@marioandultrachap Well that i can answer a bit better. A diesel converter will lock earlier. A petrol later. I have tested an N55 converter and i will sit on the brake to 4000rpm the n57 converter will only do 3000. Spool while moving is not so much of an issue. In fact dont even worry about. But if you plan to race from a dig, you may need the high stall to get your turbo spinning when you let go of the trans brake.
@@ZeroTo60Tube so im guessing these are already kind of built for turbos then. Ok got it thank you. That makes things a bit easier then lol
I gotta question, the signal wire (1 of the 3 wires on the coil connector) is slightly torn. Can I cut and reconnect this wire with a crimp/quick disconnect or is that a no no? I'm getting misfires on heavy throttle (I have ruled out spark plugs and coils, tried two sets of both and checked torque specs and connections)
I have done both crimps and solder joins on coil wires, both worked fine.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks ill repair the wire tomorrow. Ill update this comment with how it goes. You’re a genius with these n54s!
Do I need to make this modification to an F30 335i torque converter when using an 8hp45? My car is a 2008 E82 N54 and I've seen some posts about different bolts onto the flywheel etc, just want to make sure I'm not caught out by anything silly after we start working on it
The one I did, did not require it. Worth watching the 8hp45 series playlist I have on the channel.
@@ZeroTo60Tube thanks for the speedy response! The 8hp45 video isn’t as in depth as this one so I’m trying to put together everything I need. I’m super excited for this though, I’ve bought all of the parts and I’ll likely have more questions in the near future 🙂
What do you pay for a 8HP70 in AU? Turbo lamik "Shop" doesn't go anywhere, do you have a Link for where to purchase?
The rear wheel drive 8hp70 is normally around $4000 in oz. Shoot me an email zeroto60tube@gmail.com, if you would like to buy a Lamik, i have some in stock at the moment.
Step by step. That's the way to get up the mountain. Brrr..... it's cold at the top. That's why we BURN RUBBER! AHH HA HA HAAAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!! ha. LOL.
bro make mig Belding batter because all stress on bolts 🔩 thred
There shouldnt be any stress on the welds, once its tightened. All the welds need to do is hold them in place until they are done up.
what kind of tool is in that makita box?
Its either the recip saw or a circular saw, dont have much makita stuff. Both would be well over 15 years old.... maybe i should be looking at makita instead of ryobi.
@@ZeroTo60Tube the new ryobi mid torque is awesome, well worth the money! I have both Milwaukee and ryobi and the ryobi is pretty durable to be honest and does pretty well! A lot cheaper than Milwaukee to!
@@br4d101 ryobi and Milwaukee are both owned by Techtronic Industries of China. They have different marketing strategy’s but literally both come from the same factory in China.
@@ZeroTo60Tube I do carpentry/electrical/plumbing for work. I will say I really like makita tools, mainly their cordless stuff. But I have to admit the dewalt and Milwaukee stuff is very much relevant, the ryobi stuff I can’t say I have any personal experience with but I do know Milwaukee and ryobi are in fact owned by the same parent company and they both come out of the same factory in China..
@@BEAMERNOOB you are correct they are made by the same company but- it’s the feel and design of the Milwaukee and the m12 tools that makes it so much better than ryobi, the ryobi tools are big and bulky where as the Milwaukee are small but powerful! Only thing makita I have it’s radio, I’m a mechanic/service engineer so want good quality tools!
firrstttt.. ohh hahah Awsome job man! Its coming togeather fast
first :)
:D
Do you get some stupid satisfaction out of being the first person to see a notification pop up??? You must lead a very shallow life to expect credit for such a small thing!!! How about a helpful comment next time ?????