From 45 to 48 top speed without touching the engine is actually a noticeable difference. From 5.60 to 5.10 seconds a big improvement especially on such a short run. Great video guys! Keep up the great work. Aloha a hui hou.
Hey. I'm running the Juggernaut too. I found it revved out at lower speeds better when the secondary driven spring is in the 3rd tension hole. This is awesome on a highly built engine IMO. I hit 6000 while accelerating and not from belt slippage.
I learn more in this channel than any other. I work with the same kind of mindset, so your style of instruction actually reaches my brain, through my very thick skull. Thanks for the great content. From a veteran in east Tx.
Not raining on your parade, but there's a less costly means of achieving the same end & it goes back to drag racing yrs ago: untrained vested interest Monkey see, Monkey Do...no offence intended. Trev New Zealand home of World's fastest old Indian & Indy Car Racer Scott Dickson.😎...
That is 1 mean little machine ! The Juggernaut lets the engine get into it's powerband allot steadier than the original,from the sounds and look of the launches.Sweet !Will really rock in the trails now too with the torque being more usable.
@@DS-ss396 he didn't hit very hard and he's used a rubber mallet.. If you're breaking your garbage, that you call tools, you should get some Snap on tools. You break it, they replace it. No questions.
Stall speed will have very little affect on top speed. Launch and ET definitely yes because the engine is in it's power band before its actually motion but not top speed.
They definately have a better design than the comet much smoother engagement im sure. Its a really bad idea to run without a cover on the 30 series if the bolt breaks or comes loose the weights fly out like a grenade its super dangerous happend to me a few times.
I'm excited to pick one of these up for my MB200 soon. It's mildly built right now, but I'm planning to do more. I do wonder if the difference is noticeable between the Juggernaut and just swaping springs and weights in a standard series 30 TC? I have the stock weights in mine right now, but I did swap in the white springs which increased engagement from ~2200rpm to 2800rpm. Cost of aluminum weights and springs is not far off from a Juggernaut, though. Side note, you guys should invest in a Dragy. GPS-based device that can track speed/time over distance, etc. Can get more accurate times for whatever distances you want to set.
@@eyeballengineering7007 As it so happens, I ordered a mod 2 cam, billet flywheel, and billet rod today. Once I get all that on, I'll likely order a juggernaut too
i have a modality scooter & find myself running out of power , seed isn't my problem slow 8 to ten mph is sufficient. i have been thinking of fitting a seconds power supply to get me back home. when the brake down out of power. { or a trick to go pick it up ]. any ideas praps a trick to tack it to the shop & then of load to do my shopping , arthritis means i can walk fear, So breaking down is 'not an op i wouuuuullick to have your opinion on the ues of this system you have demonstrated , ni this type of situation ? .
I bought one for a stage 2 predator build, to try to get more speed for the higher rpm, it was worse than the standard 30 series. I lost speed and power.
Honestly for the price you have to pay to build a 212 is kinda retarted but you do get high end parts that will lasy longer and probably for cheaper you can buy a lifan 200cc shifter engine for under $600 and go like 70mph plus on a bike and it will be able tondo wheeles with a 5 speed trans.
@@sanesaint8725 but quicker launches & it's amplified by running lower gearing , it's like running your car with a hi stall converter & running 2.78:1 gears compared to 3.55:1 (it's all in the final combo) Trev NZ
D....I doubt it would do either on a stock predator without the Governor removed but doubt it could do any harm if your hearts set on one but your rev/powerband would be pretty narrow waiting for the modified clutch to engage then the rev limiter would kick in, save your $ & put on a suitable bike slider carb: go to Amazon..Cheers Trev NZ
It cracks me up how many people call a go kart C.V.T ( Continuously variable transmission) a "torque converter". Comet industries I believe was the Originator of what they called a "Torque-A-Verter". Ask any snowmobile or Polaris sxs guy what kind of drive line they run and bet the farm no one says torque converter.
Jose Pena I definitely recommend it. What’s more important to you? Paying $60 for a better, safer rod, or paying well over $100 for a trip to the ER on the off-chance that you’re engine slings a rod and impales your leg?
I would bet these aren't worth getting if you are running a near stock engine. With a mainly stock engine you would be better off modifying the stock driver, a gearing change, or both.
@Elijah Scott LeFever Yeah not sure why. You would think that the only time it could make noise would be when the "clutch" is not fully engaged. If it is noisy, at least there is no stress on the system making it less of a concern. If noisy while engaged I would be pulling it apart to investigate. Oh this is that Juggernaut video. I'll never get one. I get Juggernaut performance from gearing, at least until the belt shifts. haha. And the OD function can be beneficial if the bike is ever put on the road.
@Elijah Scott LeFever Please do a video on that if you are successful. I thought about doing it but just can't find a correct size to go over the hub. Something plastic like PVC would work great because the PVC would wear and not the hub. Even if the PVC was tight on the hub the belt would just slide on it while idling. But if you can find a bearing that fits nice that would be great. If I had a lathe I would try to make one out of an oversized bronze bushing.
I switched from the comet 30 series to the juggernaut and lost almost 10mph lol... I assume the Juggernaut doesnt have any form over overdrive or maybe i need more than 4500-5000rpm to fully engage it idk.... Overall I was kind of pissed off with my purchase, might use it on another project but my goal was to get to 50mph. I was previously at 40-41mph with a cheap chinese comet clutch. Dropped down to 32mph with the juggernaut =/. Only thing i noticed is it revs easier and has a stall on it that around 2300rpm on my tach it begins to engage. I messed around with my gear ratio and it doesnt want to go past 32 now.
From my own experience the juggernaut didn't really shine until I had done some serious mods to my engine milled/ported head flat top piston big cam w/ratio rockers me personally if you have a stage 1,2,3 I wouldn't waste the money on the juggernaut as you won't be making enough power to fully utilise it
@Knight Recon try a 40 series comet clutch. Thats my next purchase. The overdrive in the comets gives you another 10mph. I think the juggernauts are cool for drive ability. But not meant for top speed. Id almost prefer a clutch over a juggernaut.
@Knight Recon What bike do you have and what is the sprocket count? The Juggernaut is for big power high RPM engines. A lot of guys like these because the gearing change with the belt shift is not as dramatic as the stock driver. The Juggernaut does not even get to a 1:1 ratio. If you want to run it and do not want to build your engine you will need to gear for it.
That belt is way too long, you are starting off in second or third gear. I see this all the time on these systems. Also a bit wider belt would help as well. The reason is the clutch is so hot is because of slippage, get a proper belt on that thing and you will be amazed at the difference.
@@SuperBigdanno My 40$ Chinese clone never got hot, did 10 miles with the supplied belt, no visible wear. I did use a couple spacers to get proper alignment though.
If you only get 3 more miles pH,120 bucks they can keep it way to much money maybe it will go 5 mph faster still to much money, come on gopower money mad, they want ,90 bucks for the new header on the mb20_2 should b 75bucks for the Juggernaut
The standard chiacom driver is crap. They have to be modified in a machine shop extensively to get any life out of them. A good hard use weekend out of them will require a whole new driver.
Not even close. I have many Tav2's on built engines with aluminum weights and different springs. This is entirely different. I have a juggernaut on a 9000 rpm fully built, ported 212 and it's a world of difference to the tuned tav2 driver that was on it. They should have had the secondary clutch on the third hole. It accelerates even better by holding the gear even more. This is not for a stock engine IMO. It wouldn't upshift enough I don't think. This is best suited to an engine that hits at least 6500rpm under load
@@eyeballengineering7007 I agree. With a closer to stock engine there is not enough power available when the shift starts to delay the upshift. Even though you get a later upshift a near stock engine still can't overcome the gearing change at that RPM with the given load. And whatever engine you are using you would think the gearing is still important. There are a lot of bikes out there that are not even geared properly for the stock CVT let alone geared properly for this driver.
From 45 to 48 top speed without touching the engine is actually a noticeable difference. From 5.60 to 5.10 seconds a big improvement especially on such a short run. Great video guys! Keep up the great work. Aloha a hui hou.
That little quad is moving! I was hoping someone would do a comparison like this. Great video. Really dig the quads aggressive new look.
Hey. I'm running the Juggernaut too. I found it revved out at lower speeds better when the secondary driven spring is in the 3rd tension hole. This is awesome on a highly built engine IMO. I hit 6000 while accelerating and not from belt slippage.
I learn more in this channel than any other. I work with the same kind of mindset, so your style of instruction actually reaches my brain, through my very thick skull. Thanks for the great content. From a veteran in east Tx.
she ant no joke i put one on my bike O HELL YEAH that clutch rules the 30 series
Great job! Love seeing young engineers design and build!
I like how that mini quad looks and turned out
Man really cool that juggernaut really works. Awesome review for this guys I'm definitely going to have and get one now. Thanks for sharing this ❤️
Hell yea brother💪✌
Not raining on your parade, but there's a less costly means of achieving the same end & it goes back to drag racing yrs ago: untrained vested interest Monkey see, Monkey Do...no offence intended. Trev New Zealand home of World's fastest old Indian & Indy Car Racer Scott Dickson.😎...
That is 1 mean little machine ! The Juggernaut lets the engine get into it's powerband allot steadier than the original,from the sounds and look of the launches.Sweet !Will really rock in the trails now too with the torque being more usable.
thank you for inspiring me on my mini atv project.
Gopowersport must really be trying to sell these clutch drivers
2 months ago they were 20 dollars cheaper
@@Codys-ChannelI'm watching this in 2024. What do you think it cost now,lol
@darryllawrence2530 go power sports sells the entire kit for $180
Weld a grate on for your feet.
6:45 the original impact wrench.
That's how to break a ratchet.
@@DS-ss396 he didn't hit very hard and he's used a rubber mallet.. If you're breaking your garbage, that you call tools, you should get some Snap on tools. You break it, they replace it. No questions.
@@terryj257 lol I use harbor freight and haven’t broken one yet. Plus everyone’s seems to forget they have lifetime warranty
I had a small dirt bike sprocket with 39 teeth to a 10 tooth comit clutch on a 5 hp power sport hits 50 on the flat road
Stall speed will have very little affect on top speed. Launch and ET definitely yes because the engine is in it's power band before its actually motion but not top speed.
I have the same build, on a yerfdog spiderbox, and its amazing. But im gonna add the billet parts soon. to hit 70 mph.
You need stiffer shock springs.
Really great test I need to get one of those.
Hell yea brother💪✌
Have y'all taken it apart yet? We need a video of that! We need info on maintenance.
Stiffening up that rear shock might improve that drag time even more.
10:50 you're just gonna cut you flipping it? Lmao
They definately have a better design than the comet much smoother engagement im sure. Its a really bad idea to run without a cover on the 30 series if the bolt breaks or comes loose the weights fly out like a grenade its super dangerous happend to me a few times.
Just happened to me for the first time
I'm excited to pick one of these up for my MB200 soon. It's mildly built right now, but I'm planning to do more. I do wonder if the difference is noticeable between the Juggernaut and just swaping springs and weights in a standard series 30 TC? I have the stock weights in mine right now, but I did swap in the white springs which increased engagement from ~2200rpm to 2800rpm. Cost of aluminum weights and springs is not far off from a Juggernaut, though.
Side note, you guys should invest in a Dragy. GPS-based device that can track speed/time over distance, etc. Can get more accurate times for whatever distances you want to set.
Bare minimum you want a cam with one of these.
@@eyeballengineering7007 As it so happens, I ordered a mod 2 cam, billet flywheel, and billet rod today. Once I get all that on, I'll likely order a juggernaut too
I think that would help my go-kart a lot getting up the steep hills
If your engine is built it definitely will. I have one too. It's awesome for a well built engine
Great video
I guess you could all ways change front sprocket for more top speed, bigger back less top speed but more torque
That shock reminds me of my old pit bike things get sketchy when your bouncing at 45 ....... not fun when the tire actually left the ground
You should try holding the break and reving it up to launch like a normal torque converter
i have a modality scooter & find myself running out of power , seed isn't my problem slow 8 to ten mph is sufficient. i have been thinking of fitting a seconds power supply to get me back home. when the brake down out of power. { or a trick to go pick it up ]. any ideas praps a trick to tack it to the shop & then of load to do my shopping , arthritis means i can walk fear, So breaking down is 'not an op i wouuuuullick to have your opinion on the ues of this system you have demonstrated , ni this type of situation ? .
I need one of those to go to the supermarket, you know. of course it's a joke but it is cool and serves to have fun for a while
I have a 212 stage 1 kit. Should I get this? Or should my engine be more built?
Just put a simple 265Hot Cam nice carburetor. As long as your bike is 4000 RPM it can go on.
You guys should put 2 shocks in the back to stiffen it up more
Yeah man rear bottoms out and fronts are jus right
I bought one for a stage 2 predator build, to try to get more speed for the higher rpm, it was worse than the standard 30 series. I lost speed and power.
Honestly for the price you have to pay to build a 212 is kinda retarted but you do get high end parts that will lasy longer and probably for cheaper you can buy a lifan 200cc shifter engine for under $600 and go like 70mph plus on a bike and it will be able tondo wheeles with a 5 speed trans.
I just placed the order for one. My converter finally broke. To be fair it was a cheap 60 dollar Amazon converter.
You were a little hard on that Harbor Freight ratchet....lol....
Good thing their lifetime warranty is among one of the best when it comes to honoring it! LOVE HFT!
Same hobbies... ❤
Nice
For a stage 1 tilly 212 with complete governor removal will this get better performance than a stock 30 series?
So you changed the gearing. Surly you could of done that with your chain and sprockets?
Seems like the rear sprocket is small so the impact is reduced. If your gearing was lower the impact would be greater.
Bigger back less top speed
@@sanesaint8725 but quicker launches & it's amplified by running lower gearing , it's like running your car with a hi stall converter & running 2.78:1 gears compared to 3.55:1 (it's all in the final combo) Trev NZ
hi, I also fitted the same kit, when I walk 2 km I touch the belt and it overheats why?? yours is the same i.e. does it overheat??? or is it normal?
It deserves a stage 4 kit
That part. Anything less, just run with a Comet.
You should change the hole in the driver pulley
That looks like fun! Where did that chassis from? Home built?
I love that song what is called
What size and tooth is the back sprocket?
Does it get as hot? Hill climb?
What gear are you running on the converter an the axel?
What kinda of flywheel are ya'll running?
On a stock predator engine I have a torque converter. If I put the juggernaut on there it should increase some more hp or speed?
D....I doubt it would do either on a stock predator without the Governor removed but doubt it could do any harm if your hearts set on one but your rev/powerband would be pretty narrow waiting for the modified clutch to engage then the rev limiter would kick in, save your $ & put on a suitable bike slider carb: go to Amazon..Cheers Trev NZ
I will be very plaised to know the wheel base of this little monster ?
What quad is that? Link please
Yo BBR, have u guys thought about changing that rear red spring in the torque converter.
The best in my opinion is just a straight bully clutch
What size engine is that?
So cute
Does the clutch cover fit over new clutch?
i would think so because it’s around the same size
11:45 have you tried "power braking" on your launches?
Nice hat - where did you get that?
Better for mini bikes I think
Did he pay extra?
Mone did not come with the rear pkate. Only the Black Driver.
Why are the handlebars in his lap?
Spot weld that bolt to the engine onto the plate or someday you get a parts bomb.
It cracks me up how many people call a go kart C.V.T ( Continuously variable transmission) a "torque converter". Comet industries I believe was the Originator of what they called a "Torque-A-Verter". Ask any snowmobile or Polaris sxs guy what kind of drive line they run and bet the farm no one says torque converter.
Ken Design *continuously variable transmission
@@dabbgk thanks man.
Yeah, my wife had a lot arguments, growing up, dudes trying to say shes an idiot for calling it a cvt
What about climbing? That is my interest in the Juggernaut
Have one on my predator 212 mildly built and it RUNS up hills with two adults 150lbs each
What app are you using for the MPH runs?
Andrey Angere Thank you
the official name is speedometer speed box app
Build Break Repeat I just found it. Thanks
Price?
I put the juggernaut on my 212 tillitson / mp200 and I feel I lost power and for sure top speed. Not sure why though
You need a built engine with a cam to make good use of it.
Pop in some 22 pound valve springs, and a mod 2 cheater cam. No special tools needed and cost less than 100 bucks over all. You'll love it
@@Codys-Channel will i need to add a billet rod if i install a upgraded cam
Jose Pena I definitely recommend it. What’s more important to you? Paying $60 for a better, safer rod, or paying well over $100 for a trip to the ER on the off-chance that you’re engine slings a rod and impales your leg?
It dosnt look bad.
Would a juggernaut have better Torque on a Stock Tillotson 212 over a standard driver?
I would bet these aren't worth getting if you are running a near stock engine. With a mainly stock engine you would be better off modifying the stock driver, a gearing change, or both.
@Knight Recon Shouldn't be noisy. Not sure why it would rattle.
Both of my stock drivers rattle like crazy at idle on my mb200s, but the both work just fine.
@Elijah Scott LeFever Yeah not sure why. You would think that the only time it could make noise would be when the "clutch" is not fully engaged. If it is noisy, at least there is no stress on the system making it less of a concern.
If noisy while engaged I would be pulling it apart to investigate.
Oh this is that Juggernaut video. I'll never get one. I get Juggernaut performance from gearing, at least until the belt shifts. haha. And the OD function can be beneficial if the bike is ever put on the road.
@Elijah Scott LeFever Please do a video on that if you are successful. I thought about doing it but just can't find a correct size to go over the hub. Something plastic like PVC would work great because the PVC would wear and not the hub. Even if the PVC was tight on the hub the belt would just slide on it while idling. But if you can find a bearing that fits nice that would be great.
If I had a lathe I would try to make one out of an oversized bronze bushing.
@Knight Recon that's normal, it's not a one piece construction like the juggernaut
Put real shocks instead of those pogo sticks, handling will be much better
that poor ratchet 😂
I switched from the comet 30 series to the juggernaut and lost almost 10mph lol... I assume the Juggernaut doesnt have any form over overdrive or maybe i need more than 4500-5000rpm to fully engage it idk.... Overall I was kind of pissed off with my purchase, might use it on another project but my goal was to get to 50mph. I was previously at 40-41mph with a cheap chinese comet clutch. Dropped down to 32mph with the juggernaut =/. Only thing i noticed is it revs easier and has a stall on it that around 2300rpm on my tach it begins to engage. I messed around with my gear ratio and it doesnt want to go past 32 now.
From my own experience the juggernaut didn't really shine until I had done some serious mods to my engine milled/ported head flat top piston big cam w/ratio rockers me personally if you have a stage 1,2,3 I wouldn't waste the money on the juggernaut as you won't be making enough power to fully utilise it
Doesnt sound like your torque converter at that point.. seems more like the engine is just better than stage 1-3
@Knight Recon nah haven't had the time. Im almost 100% positive it doesnt have am overdrive so its just not meant for top speed
@Knight Recon try a 40 series comet clutch. Thats my next purchase. The overdrive in the comets gives you another 10mph. I think the juggernauts are cool for drive ability. But not meant for top speed. Id almost prefer a clutch over a juggernaut.
@Knight Recon What bike do you have and what is the sprocket count?
The Juggernaut is for big power high RPM engines. A lot of guys like these because the gearing change with the belt shift is not as dramatic as the stock driver. The Juggernaut does not even get to a 1:1 ratio.
If you want to run it and do not want to build your engine you will need to gear for it.
Could use it for our winch motor.... #DAWINCHY
Just a couple more teeth on a front spocket, will hit a good top speed and put a 60 tooth on back plus the Juggernaut
That belt is way too long, you are starting off in second or third gear. I see this all the time on these systems. Also a bit wider belt would help as well. The reason is the clutch is so hot is because of slippage, get a proper belt on that thing and you will be amazed at the difference.
Just a note, 160hp snowmobiles can do full pulls for a long distance and the clutches would just be warm not hot like you showed.
@@SuperBigdanno My 40$ Chinese clone never got hot, did 10 miles with the supplied belt, no visible wear.
I did use a couple spacers to get proper alignment though.
If you only get 3 more miles pH,120 bucks they can keep it way to much money maybe it will go 5 mph faster still to much money, come on gopower money mad, they want ,90 bucks for the new header on the mb20_2 should b 75bucks for the Juggernaut
The standard chiacom driver is crap. They have to be modified in a machine shop extensively to get any life out of them. A good hard use weekend out of them will require a whole new driver.
Toy for Kids
Foot pegs look pretty sketch
Dam that things tiny! Nope!
Lol that thing is slow asf I have a built 196 with stock torque converter that does 60 Not a juggernaut don't waist the money
Lol you cant use gps for speed..... its completely inaccurate..
Source: me, I work in the geodesic world.....
This is a scam... you can achive the exact same results by chaging your weight springs in the driver ($10) vs $100+ for this pos. Nice try 🤣
Not even close. I have many Tav2's on built engines with aluminum weights and different springs. This is entirely different. I have a juggernaut on a 9000 rpm fully built, ported 212 and it's a world of difference to the tuned tav2 driver that was on it. They should have had the secondary clutch on the third hole. It accelerates even better by holding the gear even more. This is not for a stock engine IMO. It wouldn't upshift enough I don't think. This is best suited to an engine that hits at least 6500rpm under load
@@eyeballengineering7007 I agree. With a closer to stock engine there is not enough power available when the shift starts to delay the upshift. Even though you get a later upshift a near stock engine still can't overcome the gearing change at that RPM with the given load. And whatever engine you are using you would think the gearing is still important. There are a lot of bikes out there that are not even geared properly for the stock CVT let alone geared properly for this driver.