Bambu Lab A1 First Impressions: Budget Multi-Color Printing For Tabletop Terrain?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 18 ธ.ค. 2023
- In this video I'll be walking you through my first impressions of the brand new Bambu Lab A1 with the AMS Lite, and exploring how it performs, the build quality, and whether or not it might be worth considering for some multi colored tabletop terrain.
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No offense, there's no "little screws" to be undone to change the hotend. Popping two clips is completely different from removing screws
Ah my bad! When I took it out I also unscrewed the screws just above it, similar to how I did it on the P1S. Looks like removing the screws was totally unesaccary! I’ll pin your comment so others can see.
thought that too 3:25 ...well informed before buying a new printer i guess *lol
Just ordered mine! Super excited for it to arrive!
Im a subscriber for a while now.. your quality keeps evolving 😄 keep up that good work for us
Thanks! I keep trying to level up my production and filming so it’s nice to get that kind of feedback 😁
I just picked one of these up after seeing others printing flooring and walls for miniature gaming using Hueforge to add color. I can't wait to figure out all the new possibilities I've unlocked with this printer.
They contacted me after seeing this video and recommended I take a look at HueForge. Had never heard of it before but it looks like a really good tool to get things like dungeon tiles done.
Good video on the subject matter! Quality of the tabletop terrain is top notch and i cant wait until i get my printer (might take 4-5 more days).
I heard that depending on the 3D model you could enable "poop to infill" function so there would be even less waste produced as the poop-gradient would be hidden infill.
I’ve one, hope you enjoy your printer. I’ve enabled that but never really noticed much of a difference. I should probably take a closer look though!
thanks for the review! So have you noticed any difference in quality with the P1S? I would love to see an in-depth comparison video; as I have just picked up a almost-new P1S with an AMS instead of a new A1.
By the way, it seems that the temperature of the bed was a mistake in their marketing material, apparently the bed goes up to 100C not 80.
Do you have a video/suggestion on performing the oil wash? What materials tips? I am going to multicolor print some terrain and items for Frosthaven, and like the idea of knocking down the color/gloss to make them look a bit more weathered. But I’m a total noice and was hoping for some guidance for quick ways to apply a coat of something to make them look a little less like “toys” as you describe it.
Thanks!
Hello and thank you for this superb video, I also own an A1, can you tell me 2 things?
1) why does the print head remove after the 2nd layer at the rear left of the plate to then resume printing?
2) How can we modify the fan speeds in bambu studio because even in filament + edit the speed it doesn't change anything, I run at 80% all the time, thank you very much...
Could you please make a video to compare the noise between the different speed modes?
@3:50 carboard spools work perfectly on the ams. no adapters needed
Hi Mate,
Could you please provide a link to download the 3D ghost? my grandkids would love it. After watching your review I'm purchasing in the new year, unfortunately, I've just bought the K1 and K1 Max, so I'll have to give it a few weeks or the Mrs will live in my ear for ages.
Can you compare the experience and results for printing terrain on a1 vs p1s?
I'm really loving all the reviews of the A1 Combo - soooo close to pulling the trigger...but do I really NEED it? 😀
Same
Haha only you can answer that question 😂 But if you do get one, I hope you enjoy it!
"do I really NEED it" is the wrong question 😂 "Will it eventually end up in the closet collecting dust" would be the correct approach 😉
I got my first printer exactly 1 year from today, and it hasn't stopped printing since. Hell finding my room quite when the printer is done sounds weird now 😂 so yeah, pulling the trigger on the A1 was a no brainer for me 👍
If that's who you are, then man you're in for a treat 😁
Do you have a 3D printer already that can print multicolour prints and you're happy with the quality of the prints and really don't mind fiddling with it to maintain that quality. If yes then you can skip the A1 Combo.
If No and you want to 3D print then you NEED the A1 Combo. No ifs, no buts the A1 is hands down the best printer for its price and will fulfil most hobbyist needs.
is it possible to make articulated tyranids of decent quality ?
I have never had any issue with paper spools with the AMS. I have tried multiple brands as well. Corrugated cardboard might be a problem, but not solid paperboard.
I’d always seen warnings not to use them because over time tiny bits of cardboard gets pulled into the rollers. When I’ve used them without adapters they work, but I have noticed what looks like cardboard dust building up. Might be me just looking for things though!
I wanna see multi color print speed for miniatures
What is the height with the spool holder on top?
we need a Hardware update in order to be able to connect two AMS Lite to the A1
What table are you using for the A1?
My printers are currently on some Ikea Trofast storage boxes. Hope that helps.
If you measure A1 + AMS wide, how long is it realisticly?
I need this info too, have you managed to find it ?
@@mihaialexandru8965 had an article on makerworld but can’t find it.. think it was about 45cm wide, 65-70cm wide with AMS. Don’t know how deep. Ordered one and hopefully that it will fit with top mounted ams on my 55x55cm Ikea lack table
th-cam.com/video/3PhRA9QGxe0/w-d-xo.htmlsi=LGgsfNkxI7AlIlYR
She shows some measurements as well, at the end
How small of detail do you think this can print? Im looking to buy a reliable printer to make fishing lures ive drawn in 3d. So far i can get an Ender 3 to draw detail down to a 1/32nd of an inch. But any smaller it just doesnt show up on the print. Looking to have detail on the fins of my lures.
You can get .2 nozzle and print stuff smaller than a penny with decent detail.
A 0.2mm nozzle is 1/128inch so you should be able to do that at least.
I'd suggest fiddling with your printer to set it up for maximum detail vs speed, there are thousands of videos about this.
But remember; it makes a print by melting plastic and literally gluing it on the previous bit so any detail that you print has to have sufficient base material to stick onto. If you print too hot the details just melt together.
@@vinny142 i appreciate your response. Yeah right now I'm printing with a .4 on an original ender 3. Just starting out. Ive been running pla at 200c, with a bed temp of 58c, and a speed of 50. How much slower and less temp can one go?
If the plastic cover breaks, just print a new one 😂
mmmm we just love nda orders
'prints as good as ____" - honestly basically all printers print the same quality, as long as the frame is tuned and everything is set up - the hardware can be dated quite old and still print well - because printing has come just that far.
There are people using 5 and 10 year old printers, with modern firmware - and printing just as good as 'just off the shelf' new printers.
Modern tech has made them almost uniform in print qualities, as long as everything is maintained. The real difference is - how often you have to adjust to keep that machine, maintained. Cheaper machines, will wear themselves out of 'perfect alignment' much faster than higher grade built machines.
@8:30 - it's almost like some sort of irony that yours is flinging its poop at the other Bambu models.
make a pretty large basketball hoop (or Football goal) for the poops. see how many goals it can make while it catches in a tub.
Sadly I am not that impressed with it. The biggest thing holding Bambu from being truely amazing is... not diversifying in build sizes. Many were really hoping for a 300x300 when the Carbon was announced, and still... even after claiming "no more bed slingers" - 2 bed slingers later and still not a 300x300 build volume... just.. kinda sad they didn't step up and become THE print company to do this sort of thing. Leave the tiny builds (under 200mm) for Resin - where they will be put to better use. Keep your 200's for the average-first person buy in - and for those that have been around the block a bit, that 300x300 extra volume will be put to good use, not having to constantly slice apart bigger models and assembling after print, hoping they fit well - or the ability to really fill that build plate with smaller things, to get everything done in 1 go, instead of heating up - printing - cooling down, removing - heating up cycles.
oh and that camera is abysmal. I mean its nice to have, I guess it can tell you if it's like.. you know come loose or something, but seriously... smooth rate cameras aren't that expensive, and a better lighting solution.. would help any camera.
"Took a while to assemble". My man has clearly never assembled an Ender 3.
As long as you don't need a printbed larger than 180x180 I don't see why anyone would get this over the A1 mini.
Yea, I wanted the extra size though
@@yobtnirp That is 100% justified since the 180mmx180mm can be a bit limiting if you do anything bigger or wanna do multiple prints at once!
Otherwise the technical specifications on their website seem to be identical.
Yeah the mini seems like a great option. For me, it’s more that I would want the larger size, and also being able to print duplicated of multicolour prints on a larger print bed so less waste. However, if the mini fits your needs it’s definitely worth getting over this.
@@GrayScalpMiniatures agreed
And it is faster and does less waste to print one bigger plate of multicolor objects than 2 to have the same amount of objects, as the filament change is the same for one object on the plate or for a full plate
So sad that al of you TH-camrs are willing to sell your souls for commercial content , the moment a new product comes, all of you are grinching to “sell” crap.
Umm I don't want to point out the obvious here, but if you watch the video he went out and bought this product with his own money and is not sponsored by them
at all. I am not sure what you mean he is wanting to "sell" crap, it was just an overview of what he thought of the machine he bought with his own money.
Do you have a video/suggestion on performing the oil wash? What materials tips? I am going to multicolor print some terrain and items for Frosthaven, and like the idea of knocking down the color/gloss to make them looks a bit more weathered. But I’m a total noice and was hoping for some guidance for quick ways to apply a coat of something to make them look a little less like “toys” as you describe it.
Thanks!