I followed this video to the “T” and my generator works great now! It no longer shuts off with a “low salt” warning!!! The timer and power button work normal! Thank you for showing how to rescue this one year old product and saving me $200 for a new one!
We followed the video instructions and we have the ECO5110 and it worked without issue. Thank you for making this video as it saved us from buying another unit this year if we could even find one.
Yah wish i could help. But it seems like we had to get rid of our pool cause it got damaged! But thanks for commenting and hope you continue to watch my videos!
This worked thank you so much. A quick update in the overnight hours the high salt alarm came on and shut the pump off. When I run it both sides are now producing chlorine which explains the high salt. I unplugged the right side but either side will do the trick and have not seen the alarm come on. Honestly these alarms are not needed if you regularly check your levels and clean out your pool like I do.
Both sides do not generate chlorine. The ECO on the left side is designed to measure salt concentration. The plate on the left side is designed to break down salt into chlorine. Both plates work through passing an electrical current which when done in water will create bubbling. This is called electrolysis. You are seeing hydrogen and oxygen being produced on the right. This is now more pronounced as you are passing unregulated voltage now
i have a similar unit, the issue i was having is that i had an "overall" pump timer set to turn on and off every four hours, hence it never had time to go to self cleaning mode, and hence the low salt error. all i did was reverse the plug on the large electrode(it is possible to fit either way) for one day and it fixed it, without having to tear into the unit, i had contemplated building an arduino unit that would replace the brain and reverse polarity automatically every two hours.
so far so good with us too. We did this because the low salt warning kept coming on. Did the whole vinegar thing and it did not work. It seems to be working on both sides. The algae is gone too. I am hoping this will work for the rest of the season.
Hey! Great fix for my same model ECO5110 saltwater chlorinator! Thanks for saving me from buying a third one of these units! Timer and Boost and self clean all function like advertised!😃I am ecstatic about this simple fix!Thank you profoundly, Jim
Seemed to Work for a temp solution while new rods where on order. Can not say about long term as I replaced rods and wired back to original standard in ~ 2 weeks.
Hi. Nice video and thank you for sharing. I have had no problem with scaling on my plates but tried the vinegar treatment and it did not help then i tried sanding the titanium plates just a little bit with 600grit sandpaper and i got this black sludge when doing so. After the sanding the unit has been running for 20h straight now whitout low salt alarm. Before it could only run for like 1-2h before the low salt alarm stoped it. By the way my salt level is 3700ppm according to my Blue Connect pool monitor. If this don´t work i am going to hotwire it like in the vid.
it works! but be careful: all security mechanisms will be deactivated! also the flow detector does not work anymore, that means if the pump has a failure the chlorinatpr will keep on working!
So this unit seems to sense high or low salt based on activity/chlorine production of the electrodes. If your titanium electrode is worn out (or needs to be cleaned) it will produce a lot less chlorine than normal and the system thinks the salt is low. This "fix" seems to solve low salt warnings by forcing both electrodes to produce chlorine which tricks it into thinking the single electrode is working properly. The problem with this that the unit reverses polarity for the self cleaning function every 6/10/14 hrs based on the settings... and my titanium electrode works great in one direction. So in one polarity it produces too much chlorine since both electrodes are still running... and then it throws the high salt warning... So now I have the opposite problem. What I really need is a way to prevent it from switching polarities for the self-cleaning function. I would just buy a new electrode or entire system but coronavirus seems to make everything sold out...
Did this to mine. Got 12VDC coming out when it's tired on. After 3-5 min the low salt light warning comes back and it drops the voltage to 7.5VDC.. no salt production.
Hi. I did the modification. It worked for a couple of weeks..... now the error has come back. Any ideas? I can't explain it since the sensor's have been eliminated.
Worked great, thanks! I wonder if there's any issue with the chlorine being generated on that other cell now. Send me a msg if you run into any issues with that and I'll do the same. Thanks mate! :D
I can confirm The replacement cell has fixed my problem. I replaced both cells even though intex told me only to replace the left cell. I ordered it directly through them and paid about 30$ each. I replaced both cells and the system has been running a boost cycle for the last hour with no issues. On the old cells (only a year old) it would fail with a low salt warning every single time.
@@TheSchwiz was you able to get the same exact one? Or did you get another model... my situation is 2018 model and no salt cells in stock my stuff runs until a little build up and stops
the manual that came with my eco5110 is also good for the 6110. I believe that the components on the inside should be about the same. Look for the wires coming from the small electrode. These are the ones to cut and match with the other set of wires. Let me know how it goes or if you have more questions. Good Luck!!!
James Myrick that is not supposed to happen unless lightning struck it and so if lightning did not strike it then consider it “totaled” but before considering it “totaled” hit the reset button on the plug
I have the eco 6110 I had seen a lot of TH-cam video with the exact same motherboard with out the jumper wire and I seen some that is slightly different motherboard that had the jumper wire I had tried it both ways and now after two modified way with and without the jumper the eco 6110 will not power on it is like it it not even receiving any power at all I don't even hear a click in the GFI on the cord either and yes the power is live aka on but the system is not tempting to receive power. I had checked all the wire and checked everything and still no power and it was turning on and throwing low salt warning at me then power off before this modification. So I do not understand I only touch 4 wire you cut 2 then place black on black and white on white that is another 2 for a total of 4 wire so why am I not receiving no power the cord is fine and is good not cuts tires or anything and all the wire on the inside are good and tight. What am I doing worng
@@MasterMindS901 Were you able to get it to power back up? I'm planning on dong this with my ECO20110-1 today, but I'm a bit hesitant to do so if it'll end up frying something.
@@techman2124 We just tried your fix tonight, and so far so good. Unit powered on fine and no beeping. My concern is: Does the chlorine generator still make enough chlorine with the polarity reversed? I noticed that the side making the bubbles is not the side with the copper plate in the center. Will this cause an issue, or should it be fine since the water eventually passes through on the copper side as well? Thank you!
Can someone please comment back to this and let me know what to do? So I rewired it like this and now it keeps saying high salt. I took it to get tested and it is at 3040 which is normal. I don’t know what to do now.
I had the same issue. Drain the pool about 1/3 and refill with fresh water. The pool will need less salt now. The instructions recommended le els will not apply. With salt test strips, I had to be less than 3,000 ppm to get the high sensor to turn off.
Yes...It's been working just fine for me over 1 month now. with this fix if you have too much salt i think it will give you the same warning. Ik it is saying low salt but i think you should try checking your total salt and get it down to 2800 to 3000ppm. Let me know!
I kept dumping salt in pool when chlorinator was clean and it kept shutting down! My water is like the Pacific Ocean....7000ppm due to trying to please the sensor! It now runs like it should, and on boost mode, have to check ph balance and see if it balances a bit! Good luck!😃🙋🏼♂️
I had the same issue. Drain about 1/3 of the pool water and refill with clean water. The pool will need less salt to operate now. Manual salt strip testing shows it uses less than 3,000 ppm of salt now.
This DOES NOT WORK. Basically what he has done is disconnected the copper part of the generator. If you follow the wires you'll see it. I'm going to try to bypass the power like it shown on TH-cam for the older unit & see that works.
Fixed mine much easier. Remove the electrode on the left. Cleaned the titanium plate. Then put the electrode back in. Then reversed the connection to the electrode... warning light is now gone.
@@dabeez68 How much was the cell? My sister upgraded so this was given to me. 2 years old at max. I don’t understand how they can go bad so fast.. my first year using it and I’m just trying to get it to work 😂
No ............ and Not a Fix. people are not understanding what this is actually doing. First Test Salt level to confirm correct PPM before doing any troubleshooting. Second is to make sure the Titanium plate is Clean. Soak in a solution of 1part Muriatic Acid to 2 parts Water. Rinse thoroughly when done. 1) the Top wires are feed for the E.C.O. electrode 2) the lower 2 Electrode wires, marked cl+ and cl- are the Titanium plate wires This so-called fix is just shorting the independent plates together on a single circuit. Both are designed to operate at different voltages. The plates are in a runaway condition when shorted together and producing more Hydrogen Gas than Chlorine. They are also tricking the Unit into thinking the Worn out Titanium plate is still usable and producing the Correct amount of Chlorine, when it isn't. It is also shunting the ability to read Salt Water content. Eventually other problems develop due to not properly addressing the issue. Either Way, New plates or a complete New Generator in in the near future. The plates, in all Chlorine Generators, are Wear Items and All eventually wear out. Intex plates wear out 2x more often but at a cost or 1/4 to 1/6 the cost of others............. You do the math In Well Balanced pools the Generators will last at least 2 yrs, if properly maintained. *Most above ground seasonal pool owners using Salt forget to Confirm/add the correct amount of Stabilizer during pool opening. The often also mess up Salt content confirmation. They, I mean (We) - lol learn to do it the right way and save the additional headaches.
Safety mechanisms disabled. Wonder how funny that will be, when someone sues you over this video after being hurt. I guess you will find out it wasn't worth the few clicks :)
I followed this video to the “T” and my generator works great now! It no longer shuts off with a “low salt” warning!!! The timer and power button work normal! Thank you for showing how to rescue this one year old product and saving me $200 for a new one!
We followed the video instructions and we have the ECO5110 and it worked without issue. Thank you for making this video as it saved us from buying another unit this year if we could even find one.
Yah wish i could help. But it seems like we had to get rid of our pool cause it got damaged! But thanks for commenting and hope you continue to watch my videos!
This worked thank you so much. A quick update in the overnight hours the high salt alarm came on and shut the pump off. When I run it both sides are now producing chlorine which explains the high salt. I unplugged the right side but either side will do the trick and have not seen the alarm come on. Honestly these alarms are not needed if you regularly check your levels and clean out your pool like I do.
Both sides do not generate chlorine. The ECO on the left side is designed to measure salt concentration. The plate on the left side is designed to break down salt into chlorine.
Both plates work through passing an electrical current which when done in water will create bubbling. This is called electrolysis. You are seeing hydrogen and oxygen being produced on the right. This is now more pronounced as you are passing unregulated voltage now
i have a similar unit, the issue i was having is that i had an "overall" pump timer set to turn on and off every four hours, hence it never had time to go to self cleaning mode, and hence the low salt error. all i did was reverse the plug on the large electrode(it is possible to fit either way) for one day and it fixed it, without having to tear into the unit, i had contemplated building an arduino unit that would replace the brain and reverse polarity automatically every two hours.
I tried this for the hell of it and it worked!! thanks for posting this! I'll probably just swap it back and forth every couple of days.
so far so good with us too. We did this because the low salt warning kept coming on. Did the whole vinegar thing and it did not work. It seems to be working on both sides. The algae is gone too. I am hoping this will work for the rest of the season.
Hey! Great fix for my same model ECO5110 saltwater chlorinator! Thanks for saving me from buying a third one of these units! Timer and Boost and self clean all function like advertised!😃I am ecstatic
about this simple fix!Thank you profoundly, Jim
Seemed to Work for a temp solution while new rods where on order. Can not say about long term as I replaced rods and wired back to original standard in ~ 2 weeks.
Hi. Nice video and thank you for sharing. I have had no problem with scaling on my plates but tried the vinegar treatment and it did not help then i tried sanding the titanium plates just a little bit with 600grit sandpaper and i got this black sludge when doing so. After the sanding the unit has been running for 20h straight now whitout low salt alarm. Before it could only run for like 1-2h before the low salt alarm stoped it. By the way my salt level is 3700ppm according to my Blue Connect pool monitor. If this don´t work i am going to hotwire it like in the vid.
it works! but be careful: all security mechanisms will be deactivated! also the flow detector does not work anymore, that means if the pump has a failure the chlorinatpr will keep on working!
Bingo, worked like a charm. Thanks so much..Salute!!
Will this work for the high salt error code 92?
I followed your directions and I still get 91 code. It runs great for an hour and then goes into sleep mode. Any suggestions?
amazing it worked!! Mine is a slightly larger model and there were a few miinor differences but it did the trick can't thank you enough!!
I tried this it definitely worked and for sure generated chlorine not checked timer yet
So this unit seems to sense high or low salt based on activity/chlorine production of the electrodes. If your titanium electrode is worn out (or needs to be cleaned) it will produce a lot less chlorine than normal and the system thinks the salt is low. This "fix" seems to solve low salt warnings by forcing both electrodes to produce chlorine which tricks it into thinking the single electrode is working properly. The problem with this that the unit reverses polarity for the self cleaning function every 6/10/14 hrs based on the settings... and my titanium electrode works great in one direction. So in one polarity it produces too much chlorine since both electrodes are still running... and then it throws the high salt warning... So now I have the opposite problem. What I really need is a way to prevent it from switching polarities for the self-cleaning function. I would just buy a new electrode or entire system but coronavirus seems to make everything sold out...
Didnt work for me still having the High salt i even empty the water and fill it back up and is the same
Did this to mine. Got 12VDC coming out when it's tired on. After 3-5 min the low salt light warning comes back and it drops the voltage to 7.5VDC.. no salt production.
Hi. I did the modification. It worked for a couple of weeks..... now the error has come back. Any ideas? I can't explain it since the sensor's have been eliminated.
the same did you find a solution?
The same:(
The same...worked for about 1 week
Same
Same story for me
give this guy 5 stars
Did you ever get the high salt warning after this?
no
Works great on 6220 with blue and brown cables.
So what are you bypassing here? Is there a fix to make like original? This does seem to be my problem. Thanks.
I did it and it worked for 1 day and back to low salt. Please help. I have the ECO6110
Did what you said in the video it worked for a while but now low salt indicator is coming on again
Worked great, thanks! I wonder if there's any issue with the chlorine being generated on that other cell now. Send me a msg if you run into any issues with that and I'll do the same. Thanks mate! :D
I ordered a new titanium cell for under 30$ from Intex. I’m hoping that fixes the issue. Otherwise I’ll need to try this method.
you was able to find a replacement cell holy smokes!
Ya, please let us know if it does the trick.
I can confirm The replacement cell has fixed my problem. I replaced both cells even though intex told me only to replace the left cell. I ordered it directly through them and paid about 30$ each. I replaced both cells and the system has been running a boost cycle for the last hour with no issues. On the old cells (only a year old) it would fail with a low salt warning every single time.
@@TheSchwiz was you able to get the same exact one? Or did you get another model... my situation is 2018 model and no salt cells in stock my stuff runs until a little build up and stops
@@kob86 I checked what I needed on their website and confirmed the part numbers and just ordered it. My unit is from 2019..
Is the fix the same for the eco6110
the manual that came with my eco5110 is also good for the 6110. I believe that the components on the inside should be about the same. Look for the wires coming from the small electrode. These are the ones to cut and match with the other set of wires. Let me know how it goes or if you have more questions. Good Luck!!!
I tried this to mine a it didn't produce anything. And the service light comes on
James Myrick that is not supposed to happen unless lightning struck it and so if lightning did not strike it then consider it “totaled” but before considering it “totaled” hit the reset button on the plug
Great fix! Seems to have got my 6110 back up and running happily.
I tried it. It worked 1 day and I have a low salt reading. Can you help me. I have the same model.
Help. ECO6110 low salt
I’m sorry did not see your comment
Please wait for a while
I have the eco 6110 I had seen a lot of TH-cam video with the exact same motherboard with out the jumper wire and I seen some that is slightly different motherboard that had the jumper wire I had tried it both ways and now after two modified way with and without the jumper the eco 6110 will not power on it is like it it not even receiving any power at all I don't even hear a click in the GFI on the cord either and yes the power is live aka on but the system is not tempting to receive power. I had checked all the wire and checked everything and still no power and it was turning on and throwing low salt warning at me then power off before this modification. So I do not understand I only touch 4 wire you cut 2 then place black on black and white on white that is another 2 for a total of 4 wire so why am I not receiving no power the cord is fine and is good not cuts tires or anything and all the wire on the inside are good and tight. What am I doing worng
After this fix it's now warning high salt 92. Argh!!!
I tried your method, but still not working. It beeping after 15 minutes. Any other possibility to correct this 91 code error?
It starts making chlorine as soon as you plug it in
Hello, I did the fix and it worked for a while, but now I am getting the low salt signal again. What do i do now?
wwbiv555 make sure to check your salt level. It should be around 3000ppm. Also try resetting on the power supply
@@techman2124 Salt level is good, after resetting power, low salt warning contiunes to come on.
Thanks it worked
I just did that and now mine won't power on at all.
finally got it to power on and it worked for a few days and now back on low salt warning
@@meredethgriffin9171 I have the eco 6110 and it won't power what after the mod how did you power your back up?
@@MasterMindS901 Were you able to get it to power back up? I'm planning on dong this with my ECO20110-1 today, but I'm a bit hesitant to do so if it'll end up frying something.
Hum that shouldn’t happen it worked for me but where I live it had a storm and a poked a hole in the pool but generator it should turn on.
@@techman2124 We just tried your fix tonight, and so far so good. Unit powered on fine and no beeping. My concern is: Does the chlorine generator still make enough chlorine with the polarity reversed? I noticed that the side making the bubbles is not the side with the copper plate in the center. Will this cause an issue, or should it be fine since the water eventually passes through on the copper side as well? Thank you!
Can someone please comment back to this and let me know what to do? So I rewired it like this and now it keeps saying high salt. I took it to get tested and it is at 3040 which is normal. I don’t know what to do now.
Try pressing the reset button on your plug 2x
TechMan21 I’ll do that in the morning and let you know how it goes. Thank you for getting back with me.
TechMan21 that didn’t work.... do you have any other advice?
I had the same issue. Drain the pool about 1/3 and refill with fresh water. The pool will need less salt now. The instructions recommended le els will not apply. With salt test strips, I had to be less than 3,000 ppm to get the high sensor to turn off.
Keeps tripping the GFCI 😓
Nope my low salt 91 still comes on. Crap..
Got the same issue. No matter how much salt I put in ...low salt alarm.
Does this fix still work?
Yes...It's been working just fine for me over 1 month now. with this fix if you have too much salt i think it will give you the same warning. Ik it is saying low salt but i think you should try checking your total salt and get it down to 2800 to 3000ppm. Let me know!
Well that worked for 4 days, still getting the low salt at 3000ppm, any other ideas? Lol
sorry to hear that we also had salt @ 3000 ppm and it is still working. The units to run well @ 2800ppm maybe try to dilute your water some?
I kept dumping salt in pool when chlorinator was clean and it kept shutting down! My water is like the Pacific Ocean....7000ppm due to trying to please the sensor! It now runs like it should, and on boost mode, have to check ph balance and see if it balances a bit! Good luck!😃🙋🏼♂️
So I did it but now saying high salt * I thought it stopped reading the levels. Ugh I am so mad this is happening
It just did the same shit to me.
I had the same issue. Drain about 1/3 of the pool water and refill with clean water. The pool will need less salt to operate now. Manual salt strip testing shows it uses less than 3,000 ppm of salt now.
@@rodneyfaucett9810 I did the same. Its working now.
Same here but my salt levels are actually high from all the salt i added trying to fix the first issue. Draining some water now to try to correct.
@@dgmorris67 did this work for you
This DOES NOT WORK. Basically what he has done is disconnected the copper part of the generator. If you follow the wires you'll see it. I'm going to try to bypass the power like it shown on TH-cam for the older unit & see that works.
let us know please! thanks!
Please let us know your findings, I am curious too
Fixed mine much easier. Remove the electrode on the left. Cleaned the titanium plate. Then put the electrode back in. Then reversed the connection to the electrode... warning light is now gone.
I just did this and it worked for like maybe an hour. Back to low salt 🙄🙄🙄
@@kryptic_lc yeah, mine worked for a few days then back to low salt. Ended up getting a new cell from Intex. So far so good.
@@dabeez68 How much was the cell?
My sister upgraded so this was given to me. 2 years old at max. I don’t understand how they can go bad so fast.. my first year using it and I’m just trying to get it to work 😂
@@kryptic_lc it was under warranty so it was free
@@dabeez68 Oh nice gotcha. That’s awesome!
No ............ and Not a Fix.
people are not understanding what this is actually doing.
First Test Salt level to confirm correct PPM before doing any troubleshooting.
Second is to make sure the Titanium plate is Clean. Soak in a solution of 1part Muriatic Acid to 2 parts Water. Rinse thoroughly when done.
1) the Top wires are feed for the E.C.O. electrode
2) the lower 2 Electrode wires, marked cl+ and cl- are the Titanium plate wires
This so-called fix is just shorting the independent plates together on a single circuit. Both are designed to operate at different voltages. The plates are in a runaway condition when shorted together and producing more Hydrogen Gas than Chlorine.
They are also tricking the Unit into thinking the Worn out Titanium plate is still usable and producing the Correct amount of Chlorine, when it isn't. It is also shunting the ability to read Salt Water content.
Eventually other problems develop due to not properly addressing the issue.
Either Way, New plates or a complete New Generator in in the near future.
The plates, in all Chlorine Generators, are Wear Items and All eventually wear out.
Intex plates wear out 2x more often but at a cost or 1/4 to 1/6 the cost of others............. You do the math
In Well Balanced pools the Generators will last at least 2 yrs, if properly maintained. *Most above ground seasonal pool owners using Salt forget to Confirm/add the correct amount of Stabilizer during pool opening. The often also mess up Salt content confirmation. They, I mean (We) - lol
learn to do it the right way and save the additional headaches.
Safety mechanisms disabled. Wonder how funny that will be, when someone sues you over this video after being hurt. I guess you will find out it wasn't worth the few clicks :)
Shut up