There's a huge design flaw with this and the previous model: the two pin plug connecting to the chlorine cell, runs red hot, melts the plastic casing (and plug) and eventually allows water to leak out. That process has already started at 1:41, where a brown stain on the pins and under the housing, can clearly be seen. The solution is to use a dremel to remove ALL the 'cooked' plastic, then apply several layers of epoxy resin to make a water tight connection between the pins and the case.
This is absolutely correct.... for that stupid reason: a small leak at one of the titanium cell pins, saltwater slowly but constantly runs down the chlorine leads all the way to the screw terminals (repairable) and then eats traces and even component connections on the circuit board directly downward from the chlorine screw terminals. There is a 100uF cap, a surface mount transistor, and a diode that get impacted, and the chlorine relay is never closed sending the DC voltage (red/black) to the chlorine (black/white) leads... this is why you see so many people hard-wiring the red/black to the black/white.... but then losing all clock function and flow switch safety.
Good video, but just FYI, the titanium plates are what converts the salt into pure chlorine. The copper electrode is just to add copper, which is an algaecide. It's not required, and many people (myself included) run the system with the copper electrode unplugged. Still makes plenty of chlorine and keeps the pool clear, assuming you don't get the code 91 of death like we all do eventually.
That's 15 minutes of my life that I will never see again. Thanks for not warning your viewers at the beginning that you DID NOT FIX IT AND HAVE NO CLUE HOW. Geez
I had a low flow light, (Intex Model 8110, 8111) removed the sending unit (after seeing it in the above video) and found that the plastic covered contact (probably a magnet) had corroded and prevented the circuit from closing. I removed the broken plastic and sanded the exposed magnet. Low flow light remained off and the unit is making chlorine again. I will look to replace the corroded magnet since I expect the corrosion to continue.
Yes, some chlorine generators can reverse the polarity, to prevent scale build up and loss of performance. Unfortunately the only way to do that on this (and the previous model) is to reverse the plug every few weeks.
I realize that this video is over a year and a half old...but with that being said, here is my assessment of the problem. The seals in your titanium plates between the plates themselves and the plug electrodes have failed. This has allowed salt water to "wick" through the wires all the way to the circuit board connections. That is why you see "rust" at the titanium plate plug, inside the connector plug and at the board connections. Long story short, you need a new titanium plate, connector and wires. Probably easier and cheaper to just get a new chlorine generator. Hope this helps.
My chlorinator not powering on. Fuses are good on the circuit board but the resistance on the plates is very low. Would that cause it to not power on? Or do you think it's the transformer is dead. Any way to test that without electrocuting myself.
The plug to the chlorine cell has probably started to burn-up, giving a low resistance reading to the control panel - which in turn, interprets it as a high salt content in the pool.
You could've saved me a shit load of time if you said right up front you didn't fix the problem and just bought a new unit. Why did you even make and post the video?
These things are a pain in the ass! they work for a few years and then they start acting up. I tried to switch wires around like some of the by pass videos on youtube but they only work for a little while. I think your better off to just connect a ac to vdc adapter directly to the salt cell and run it on a timer. The issue is you need to know the output amp and voltage rating for this particular salt cell? I don't think you even need a copper electrode anyways.
I scrapped the entire timer and power supply, and now run the cell direct from a 19V, 65W laptop power supply that can be bought for next to nothing on-line. It's wired via a WiFi control switch, fed from mains voltage at motor terminals of the pump. Doing that means it can only generate chlorine when the pump is running and negates the need for a flow sensor. I can now control it from my smartphone eWeLink app
There's a huge design flaw with this and the previous model: the two pin plug connecting to the chlorine cell, runs red hot, melts the plastic casing (and plug) and eventually allows water to leak out. That process has already started at 1:41, where a brown stain on the pins and under the housing, can clearly be seen. The solution is to use a dremel to remove ALL the 'cooked' plastic, then apply several layers of epoxy resin to make a water tight connection between the pins and the case.
This is absolutely correct.... for that stupid reason: a small leak at one of the titanium cell pins, saltwater slowly but constantly runs down the chlorine leads all the way to the screw terminals (repairable) and then eats traces and even component connections on the circuit board directly downward from the chlorine screw terminals. There is a 100uF cap, a surface mount transistor, and a diode that get impacted, and the chlorine relay is never closed sending the DC voltage (red/black) to the chlorine (black/white) leads... this is why you see so many people hard-wiring the red/black to the black/white.... but then losing all clock function and flow switch safety.
Good video, but just FYI, the titanium plates are what converts the salt into pure chlorine. The copper electrode is just to add copper, which is an algaecide. It's not required, and many people (myself included) run the system with the copper electrode unplugged. Still makes plenty of chlorine and keeps the pool clear, assuming you don't get the code 91 of death like we all do eventually.
Thanks for the info!
Is there a benefit/purpose/reason to not use the copper electrode?
@@sethdaniel31 The copper electrode produces ozone, which helps sanitise the water. The earlier model omitted the feature.
That's 15 minutes of my life that I will never see again. Thanks for not warning your viewers at the beginning that you DID NOT FIX IT AND HAVE NO CLUE HOW. Geez
I had a low flow light, (Intex Model 8110, 8111) removed the sending unit (after seeing it in the above video) and found that the plastic covered contact (probably a magnet) had corroded and prevented the circuit from closing. I removed the broken plastic and sanded the exposed magnet. Low flow light remained off and the unit is making chlorine again. I will look to replace the corroded magnet since I expect the corrosion to continue.
Common fault. I fitted a new magnet to the swinging arm and secured it with epoxy resin. Job done!
flip over the plug to reverse the polarity on the plates and code 91 gone and producing chlorine again
Worked for me!
Thanks!!! Worked here also....I love TH-cam!!!
Worked like magic!!!! Thank you sooo much Will:)
Will what plug
Yes, some chlorine generators can reverse the polarity, to prevent scale build up and loss of performance. Unfortunately the only way to do that on this (and the previous model) is to reverse the plug every few weeks.
I realize that this video is over a year and a half old...but with that being said, here is my assessment of the problem. The seals in your titanium plates between the plates themselves and the plug electrodes have failed. This has allowed salt water to "wick" through the wires all the way to the circuit board connections. That is why you see "rust" at the titanium plate plug, inside the connector plug and at the board connections. Long story short, you need a new titanium plate, connector and wires. Probably easier and cheaper to just get a new chlorine generator. Hope this helps.
Cuáles son las características del transformador porque el mío se dañó
Do u know the part number or where I can get the clear salt cell housing just like this one
"i couldnt figure out how to open it to fix it so i used a sledge hammer!" -said no one ever! lmao! great vid.. thanks! 😁😁😂😂😃😄
My chlorinator not powering on. Fuses are good on the circuit board but the resistance on the plates is very low. Would that cause it to not power on? Or do you think it's the transformer is dead. Any way to test that without electrocuting myself.
on line the new one did you put dielectric grease to prevent the corrosion? have you gone through many cells? I am on my 6th one.
whats wrong when salt pump shows high salt ,and you clean the machine and it still reads high salt?
The plug to the chlorine cell has probably started to burn-up, giving a low resistance reading to the control panel - which in turn, interprets it as a high salt content in the pool.
You could've saved me a shit load of time if you said right up front you didn't fix the problem and just bought a new unit. Why did you even make and post the video?
It didnt claim it did fix the problem either.
Your "technical speak" is highly inaccurate as to how this works. Just saying...
very uninformative video waist of time go back to school
These things are a pain in the ass! they work for a few years and then they start acting up. I tried to switch wires around like some of the by pass videos on youtube but they only work for a little while. I think your better off to just connect a ac to vdc adapter directly to the salt cell and run it on a timer. The issue is you need to know the output amp and voltage rating for this particular salt cell? I don't think you even need a copper electrode anyways.
I scrapped the entire timer and power supply, and now run the cell direct from a 19V, 65W laptop power supply that can be bought for next to nothing on-line. It's wired via a WiFi control switch, fed from mains voltage at motor terminals of the pump. Doing that means it can only generate chlorine when the pump is running and negates the need for a flow sensor. I can now control it from my smartphone eWeLink app