Very interesting. Thanks Big Clive. I know it's old news these days but it still blows me away how they pack so many LEDs in a flexible filament. It's crazy. Also, I was guessing that they're using a standard lamp base off the shelf so if they had just made the plastic lamp base part a little longer, maybe they could have given the Cap a little more breathing room. Guessing too that they might not have that problem in an E27 version. 5 watts seems pretty hot to me, there's not a lot of room to try to hack that current resistor.
You can't make the base too long. That would expose live metal (when on). A no-no with hands touching it. Rather, if they used the standard Edison size, it would have about twice the room. Alternately, they could have used a plastic housing above the base like they used to have with the compact fluoro bulbs. I have one in front of me right now. I took a failed one apart some years ago, and they were filled with all sorts of components. These LEDs wouldn't need to be as big.
Clive, to reference 'Father Ted', show us your massive tool and fit a new base to the bulb, seeing as you cut it off.... I remember you bought that massive crimping tool to fit bulb bases.
I like the simplicity of this, and it's not running the LEDs too hard at that power level. Although with such a high combined forward voltage you could get away with just a resistor for current limiting if the current was adjusted just a little bit more down, say 10k resistor dropping 100 volts and dissipating one watt. The electrolytic capacitor is a definitely a problem, no matter what you do, inside such a tiny enclosure.
I wish you would run them for a bit and check the temp of the base. Lots of these get super hot and dangerous to touch and die quickly, especially if mounted upside-down
A large big-box store in our town is giving employees some really cool retractable ballpoint pens; when you click the button to extend the point, the company name on the barrel lights up. Pretty cool effect. I'm thinking of tearing one open to see what kind of batteries and white LEDs they're using. Gotta be pretty small ones to fit in a pen barrel. I have Pliers of Investigation to get it open, and a Dremel if needed,, wish me luck. 🙂
Years ago, I picked up a similar pen at a trade show in the US. They had some fancy design near the top end of the barrel that lit up when a button at the top was pressed. I think it used 2 or 3 tiny little button batteries. But the thing that lit up was inside the entire part of the barrel where it was located. That part of the barrel was clear plastic to allow for the tiny light show.
@@two_tier_gary_rumain yeah it's got to be really small button cells. I haven't cracked it open yet, I kind of wanted to test the battery life first. Sadly, there's no way to open the barrel and change batteries. Another result of throw-away culture.
@@tncorgi92In my country (Australia) at least, if you could easily open it then it would not pass child safety laws. Small children/babies just love swallowing tiny button cells resulting in serious, extremely painful, often permanently disfiguring and possibly life threatening internal burns. In one instance (in another country I think) it burnt right through the oesophagus and burnt the heart. Due to this I think the battery compartment is required to be fitted with a small screw and not comprised of 2 sections just threaded together like most pens. Something which might be difficult to do unless it's a rather large bulky pen?
I've been using these filament LEDs for low power garden lamps and ornaments. They make a lot of light. What I've found is that if you hook up a tiny flashing candle LED in parallel, it'll make the filament also react the same. I assume it'd work in series as well. I did manage to minimize the effect by using Schottky diodes to isolate the filament.
One other opposition is to speed up the video 1.5 - 2 X at some points all the details are preserved yet avoiding boring those who are less interested in such. But with out a doubt some one will complain about this too. Universal rule: If you try to satisfy every one no one will like it.
Some scope for modification with those LED filaments we all previously bought for a lower voltage option (given those past electric noodles were I think 3v per filament) with the use of a joule thief or solar light circuit to power them... :D
I wonder if a pipe cutter would work to release the bayonet section below the crimps? Could the PCB also be flipped so that the capacitor is on the other side and the board shields it from direct heat?
There wouldn't be sufficient room if the cap was on the other side of the PCB. Or there might be if the internal layout was redesigned. A very thin spudger or flathead screwdriver might be able to loosen the crimping enough to pull the internals out from the top.
The copper fill on the other side acts as a heatsink for the same chip though some vias, so that side in not much cooler. If there's enough room, the cap could be mounted with a few mm longer leads.
Clive to open those bulbs can be better to use one of those tube cutter for plumbers? Put it under the crimped section and with few turns it'll come down.
Do linear current regulators coexist with a series dropper cap, at least one added later? I'd think if the cap limits the current to something below the set point of the chip, it would just run wide open, but I'm not sure.
I would sooooo love to see Clive somehow get in contact with the (probably chinese) engineer who came up with designs like this and the manufacuring process, and have them both talk about all that.
Did you try to estimate the power dissipation on the linear regulator? I think they skimped on the number of LEDs in the filament, it should be possible to keep the regulator quite cool with a few more in the series.
I just typed 'pink calculator' into eBay's search bar and 13,000 results were returned. The calculators were all pink in various shades, shapes and styles. Most appeared to be for young girls.
That's what I was thinking. But I'd also do it on a drill press with a depth stop so the bit can only go deep enough to cut out the crimps. If I tried doing it by hand, I expect I'd go right through unless I was being very careful.
I usually use a flat screwdriver to pry(z) the crimped part, and it takes less time than what we see here. It may not work well with glass tubes, though.
Aliexpress seems to suddenly have a lot of these led filaments popping up, I’ve been buying little usb lamps with touch pad on/off and a dimmer function, the filaments come in various colours and look very pretty inside little glass bottles. I get the feeling something has made these filaments a cheaper option, lately.
The thing that made them cheaper was the evolution of flip-chips. Bare LED chips with no need for wire bonds, as they literally solder to PCBs like a tiny component.
Do you have a PO-BOX? Just I've been doing some tidying and found an old valve radio with a Bakelite case (it works!) in the loft. I was wondering if you'd be up for doing a takedown from a modern perspective for educational purposes?
I've seen "light string" versions of these being used as outdoor decorative lights. Obviously mains powered, but smaller, so presumably no on board PSU and lower operating voltage? Ali has so many LED light designs these days, the choice is becoming quite a challenge (and that's apart from the multicolour LED cord / strop / "neon" replica materials).
Well, Halloween approaches so it would be interesting to see what Coles, Woolies and Aldi have on offer. I hope they have these in some form or another. The hard plastic lights are so inflexible.
Clive instead of nibbling the end off.... what about a copper pipe cutter. ??? Twist rotate, twist and rotate. Just a thought for getting edison bases off . Greg fall city wa Also the cutters come in small med lrg. Ok g
I wonder if you could get "okay" smoothing by replacing that electrolytic capacitor with a lower-rated film cap, as big as can fit in there. Of course, replacing the screw-in base probably isn't worth the effort. But if you had a bunch of these that died they could be reclaimed and built into something new with a cap that won't dry up in a couple years.
You can also fit an external rectifier and capacitor between the supply and the MES socket. That allows a larger capacitor and one that doesn't run hot. With an external capacitor, there will be no change in behavior when the internal one dries out.
Or just "rotate" circuit board. Put heat sources on top, outside. Leave heat intolerant caps and other components inside base, shielded by circuit board it self. Use thicker and/or better heat insulated circuit board. Sockets normally run cool and not worming up.
40V across the regulator seems rather high. I wonder why those filaments aren't made in forward voltages that more closely relate to the smoothed rectified 240v?
Even without water ingress, it seems that the only separation between someone touching the outside of the plastic tube and the mains voltage inside is a millimeter or so creepage through the imperfectly sealed joint between the two halves. That can't be legal.
This is probably an easy question with a simple answer, is there a reason they use the electrolytic cap instead of a different type that would last longer? Just cost?
The base LED colour is a deep violet colour that stimulates the other wavelengths for white light in the phosphor coating. The blue fringe often associated with that technology is unusually bright in this bulb.
It is not because there isn't enough phosphorescent material on the led at all, it's because of how the light enters the camera lens, if that lens is coated and the arrangement of the lenses causing internal reflections
Technically, there are no white LEDs. These lights have deep blue/UV LEDs coated with a mix of fluorescent pigments to produce the tone of white required.
I need to replace some smd led strips. I want to be able to adjust their color from red through cold white. In trying to look it up I found out I don’t know what to look up. I have a SAD panel that an LED self destructed on one of the strips. The strip is 5mm wide, 1.6mm thick and 132mm long. What is the verbiage used to describe it? I don’t need it to follow, drip or pulse just adjust the color.
Couldn't you measure the voltage drop across the current sense resistor to find the total current going into the LED string along with the internal transistor inside the regulator chip
Not reverse pairs - they all light. Each LED drops about 3 Volt. If you connect 2 together in parallel (and both facing the same way), you would still drop 3V across them, at twice the current of 1 LED. If you connect 2 in series, you would drop twice the Voltage (6V), at the current of one LED. This bulb makes 100 parallel pairs, then connects those pairs up in series, so you get a string of them 100 long and 2 wide. Then you get 100x the Volt drop (300V) at 2x the current of 1 LED. If you just put all the LEDs in one string 200 long, you would need 600V to get them to light, and it starts becoming impractical.
I've grabbed a few of those with the neat 7-segment displays for battery level and fluid level read outs. There are 13 LEDs within, and 5 connections all to MCU pins through resistors. Hopefully I can work out how to reuse them!
When I see these in decorative lights next to wash sinks I shudder about their safety. No reputable domestic manufacturer would want to put their name onto it. It should say: Test your earth leakage breaker before use.
Clive, you removal of the ES base reminds me of how we stripped pyro in the day. It’s so long ago I’ve no idea if Pyro is still stripped the same way, if Pyro even still exists? Anyone know? K
Ahh pyro...us chronic dyspraxics loved it but could never get to personally install it being too expensive...I'd practice but by the time I got to install some for real my "muscle memory" forgot. 🤜🏿🤛🏻🧿
Pyro is a flameproof ridged mains cable. It comes/came in many different numbers of conductors, and the conductors were encased in a copper jacket. Between the jacket and conductors is a chalk-like powder, again flameproof. Some Pyro cables came with a PVC outer covering, the colour of which varied upon application. Terminating the end of Pyro cable was an art I perfected as an apprentice when apprenticeships took a minimum of 4 years, not the modern 1 year apprenticeships we see now. The ends of the cable had to be terminated in a brass screw-on pot that you had to secrete a grey, special flameproof putty into. Putting the putty in, you had to make sure there were no air pockets. There was a "plastic" end that pressed onto the open end of the brass pot that had several guide holes in it depending upon how many conductors there were, and a tool was used to crimp the end onto the brass pot. The outer copper jacket was the earth. I live only 2 miles away from the original Pyro factory and had the opportunity to look around it. I could go on and on about pyro, but I think this is enough to put most folk to sleep!
So the lifetime of these lamps might be different if they are fixed pointing up rather than down, as the heat from the chip would rise towards the capacitor or away from it?
It's going to heat everything inside the metal capsule either way. The heat-dissipating behavior of whatever fixture you put this in will probably have more impact on lifespan.
I wonder if they mounted the electrolytic cap on the other side of the board it would help with the heating. I mean, that little lamp base is still going to be an oven, but at least it wouldn't be getting cooked quite so directly by that chip.
If only there was some way to send that back through time, to Thomas Edison, and see what he would make of it. Never mind the wonders of bending spacetime, I just want to see the WTF look on his face.
Some time ago (about 3 or 4 years ago), I watched a video on YT about him and the invention of the light bulb. He had a journal entry about a flicker that occurred when the bulbs he was working with were first turned on. He never investigated further or he would have discovered the valve. So I would have to agree with Tesla's opinion about him.
![เจ็บที่ยังฮัก - ม่อน วรวิทย์ [ Official Mv ] จอนนี่มิวสิค](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/KALIGSRSjFs/mqdefault.jpg)
I love how you told us how dangerous that testbank is and you still use it.
“Mini-Tool avalanche” One of the many reasons Clive is the Best in the Business!
Very neat design. I really like that they went the extra mile with regards to flicker.
I'm glad you saved the 2nd one, lovely warm glow compared to the bluey white one
Very interesting. Thanks Big Clive. I know it's old news these days but it still blows me away how they pack so many LEDs in a flexible filament. It's crazy. Also, I was guessing that they're using a standard lamp base off the shelf so if they had just made the plastic lamp base part a little longer, maybe they could have given the Cap a little more breathing room. Guessing too that they might not have that problem in an E27 version. 5 watts seems pretty hot to me, there's not a lot of room to try to hack that current resistor.
You can't make the base too long. That would expose live metal (when on). A no-no with hands touching it. Rather, if they used the standard Edison size, it would have about twice the room. Alternately, they could have used a plastic housing above the base like they used to have with the compact fluoro bulbs. I have one in front of me right now. I took a failed one apart some years ago, and they were filled with all sorts of components. These LEDs wouldn't need to be as big.
Clive, to reference 'Father Ted', show us your massive tool and fit a new base to the bulb, seeing as you cut it off....
I remember you bought that massive crimping tool to fit bulb bases.
Thanks Clive love the lamp teardowns
Such a mini circuit, very clever thinking by the designer…
I like the simplicity of this, and it's not running the LEDs too hard at that power level. Although with such a high combined forward voltage you could get away with just a resistor for current limiting if the current was adjusted just a little bit more down, say 10k resistor dropping 100 volts and dissipating one watt. The electrolytic capacitor is a definitely a problem, no matter what you do, inside such a tiny enclosure.
It is always a good video when the Kink Palculator comes out to play
I didn't expect such a decent quality! 😎👍
I only visit to catch up with the wiggly burnt mark on the desk.
Since it's going to be at least "semi" conductive, I wonder if that squiggle might serve as a surrogate Bluetooth antenna??
yeah i rather you not pause. i can skip ahead if i want. but i find your videos relaxing!
That wiggly mark looks like one of those plastic welder things.
Good to know about these new LED filament thingies. Haven't seen them before.
I wish you would run them for a bit and check the temp of the base. Lots of these get super hot and dangerous to touch and die quickly, especially if mounted upside-down
you have a calm and soothing voice
love learning all the new cheap electronics
A large big-box store in our town is giving employees some really cool retractable ballpoint pens; when you click the button to extend the point, the company name on the barrel lights up. Pretty cool effect. I'm thinking of tearing one open to see what kind of batteries and white LEDs they're using. Gotta be pretty small ones to fit in a pen barrel. I have Pliers of Investigation to get it open, and a Dremel if needed,, wish me luck. 🙂
Years ago, I picked up a similar pen at a trade show in the US. They had some fancy design near the top end of the barrel that lit up when a button at the top was pressed. I think it used 2 or 3 tiny little button batteries. But the thing that lit up was inside the entire part of the barrel where it was located. That part of the barrel was clear plastic to allow for the tiny light show.
@@two_tier_gary_rumain yeah it's got to be really small button cells. I haven't cracked it open yet, I kind of wanted to test the battery life first. Sadly, there's no way to open the barrel and change batteries. Another result of throw-away culture.
@@tncorgi92 Odd. The pen I got unscrews.
@@tncorgi92In my country (Australia) at least, if you could easily open it then it would not pass child safety laws. Small children/babies just love swallowing tiny button cells resulting in serious, extremely painful, often permanently disfiguring and possibly life threatening internal burns.
In one instance (in another country I think) it burnt right through the oesophagus and burnt the heart.
Due to this I think the battery compartment is required to be fitted with a small screw and not comprised of 2 sections just threaded together like most pens. Something which might be difficult to do unless it's a rather large bulky pen?
I never skip forward.. just sayin.
I enjoy the carnage though. Thanks for all your labors to bring us the FACTS.
Vice of knowledge...Vice of Knowledge!
I love LEDs. Always have, always will.
I thought that was a bare filament in the thumbnail. These look neat!
Nice find, nice tear down 👍🏽, the "NOPE Not gonna do this" 😂 So recognizable 😂😂
The second one (flame shaped) had a really nice color to it...the other was definitely not pleasant for mood lighting
Wouldn't that depend on the mood?
Oooooh and yellow often means audio grade caps because they’re known to remove hiss or crackling. Or in the case of lights, flicker.
6:00 😂❤❤ I love the way you say filament❤ filament filament LED filament
I've been using these filament LEDs for low power garden lamps and ornaments. They make a lot of light. What I've found is that if you hook up a tiny flashing candle LED in parallel, it'll make the filament also react the same. I assume it'd work in series as well. I did manage to minimize the effect by using Schottky diodes to isolate the filament.
Hey Clive...when Poundland really did cost a quid!!!
The Cartland Pink Calculator ‼️
I don't know, you make a hole in the big glowing thing and children will want to put their hands in there, and if they break apart so easily...
Well probably don't put them around anywhere a child could get to it then?
They are trying to take a slice of the market from the dodgy night-lights that fall apart
@@Totalinternalreflection spend ten minutes with any kid, the one thing you don't want them near, they will be all over, no matter where it's been put
On the other hand.. it's your damn job to do the parenting.
@@MilkerMurphy there's always one gobby shit in the comments 😂
One other opposition is to speed up the video 1.5 - 2 X at some points all the details are preserved yet avoiding boring those who are less interested in such.
But with out a doubt some one will complain about this too. Universal rule: If you try to satisfy every one no one will like it.
ASMR - Two minutes of BigClive trying to remove the metal end of a bulb with clippers.
Some scope for modification with those LED filaments we all previously bought for a lower voltage option (given those past electric noodles were I think 3v per filament) with the use of a joule thief or solar light circuit to power them... :D
Hey Clive, are those dimmable for softer results?😀
Not this type.
I wonder if a pipe cutter would work to release the bayonet section below the crimps? Could the PCB also be flipped so that the capacitor is on the other side and the board shields it from direct heat?
I don't think so. A pipe cutter probably presses the thin material together and you start cutting into the electronics if you are not VERY careful.
There wouldn't be sufficient room if the cap was on the other side of the PCB. Or there might be if the internal layout was redesigned.
A very thin spudger or flathead screwdriver might be able to loosen the crimping enough to pull the internals out from the top.
The copper fill on the other side acts as a heatsink for the same chip though some vias, so that side in not much cooler. If there's enough room, the cap could be mounted with a few mm longer leads.
Clive to open those bulbs can be better to use one of those tube cutter for plumbers?
Put it under the crimped section and with few turns it'll come down.
Used to be there'd be one LED in the base using the flame structure as a fibre optic guide. Simpler.
Do linear current regulators coexist with a series dropper cap, at least one added later? I'd think if the cap limits the current to something below the set point of the chip, it would just run wide open, but I'm not sure.
If the capacitor limits the current too much the linear regulator will not attempt to regulate it further.
I would sooooo love to see Clive somehow get in contact with the (probably chinese) engineer who came up with designs like this and the manufacuring process, and have them both talk about all that.
I'm sure Clive doesn't speak Chinese. And it would be more than one engineer. And I doubt any of them speak English.
Using the capacitor as heatsink, that is a new method.
Ironic that the flame bulb doesn't flicker!
Did you try to estimate the power dissipation on the linear regulator? I think they skimped on the number of LEDs in the filament, it should be possible to keep the regulator quite cool with a few more in the series.
They have aimed this for the 220V to 240V market with tolerance.
2:00 Dremel with a circular saw/grinding disc!!!
I just want to know where I can get my own Kink Palculator 😀
That one randomly appeared in a UK Poundland. It's great for electronic calculations, since it has ten digits.
I just typed 'pink calculator' into eBay's search bar and 13,000 results were returned. The calculators were all pink in various shades, shapes and styles. Most appeared to be for young girls.
Would it be cleaner to drill out the crimps? It might take longer than shredding the base with cutters though.
That's what I was thinking. But I'd also do it on a drill press with a depth stop so the bit can only go deep enough to cut out the crimps. If I tried doing it by hand, I expect I'd go right through unless I was being very careful.
I usually use a flat screwdriver to pry(z) the crimped part, and it takes less time than what we see here. It may not work well with glass tubes, though.
yes, but not as much fun and less chance of blood!!
Aliexpress seems to suddenly have a lot of these led filaments popping up, I’ve been buying little usb lamps with touch pad on/off and a dimmer function, the filaments come in various colours and look very pretty inside little glass bottles.
I get the feeling something has made these filaments a cheaper option, lately.
The thing that made them cheaper was the evolution of flip-chips. Bare LED chips with no need for wire bonds, as they literally solder to PCBs like a tiny component.
Do you have a PO-BOX?
Just I've been doing some tidying and found an old valve radio with a Bakelite case (it works!) in the loft.
I was wondering if you'd be up for doing a takedown from a modern perspective for educational purposes?
Thanks for the offer. I do have two valve radios here.
So, was the harsh light colors produced by the leds, or an optical effect from the "case" partly splitting the colors, or a combination?
It may have been a lensing effect, but was mainly the way the filament had been constructed.
Nine and a half inches? Nice. 🤔
Excellent!
I've seen "light string" versions of these being used as outdoor decorative lights. Obviously mains powered, but smaller, so presumably no on board PSU and lower operating voltage? Ali has so many LED light designs these days, the choice is becoming quite a challenge (and that's apart from the multicolour LED cord / strop / "neon" replica materials).
Well, Halloween approaches so it would be interesting to see what Coles, Woolies and Aldi have on offer. I hope they have these in some form or another. The hard plastic lights are so inflexible.
Clive instead of nibbling the end off.... what about a copper pipe cutter. ??? Twist rotate, twist and rotate. Just a thought for getting edison bases off . Greg fall city wa Also the cutters come in small med lrg. Ok g
I wonder if you could get "okay" smoothing by replacing that electrolytic capacitor with a lower-rated film cap, as big as can fit in there. Of course, replacing the screw-in base probably isn't worth the effort. But if you had a bunch of these that died they could be reclaimed and built into something new with a cap that won't dry up in a couple years.
You can also fit an external rectifier and capacitor between the supply and the MES socket. That allows a larger capacitor and one that doesn't run hot. With an external capacitor, there will be no change in behavior when the internal one dries out.
Or just "rotate" circuit board. Put heat sources on top, outside. Leave heat intolerant caps and other components inside base, shielded by circuit board it self. Use thicker and/or better heat insulated circuit board. Sockets normally run cool and not worming up.
40V across the regulator seems rather high. I wonder why those filaments aren't made in forward voltages that more closely relate to the smoothed rectified 240v?
Know you have a bias for warm but i think the other one looks better.
Clive, have you yet seen any LED lamps with a long persistance phosphor to smoothe out the flicker? (I'm assuming a short life span.)
Not really noticeable persistence.
Even without water ingress, it seems that the only separation between someone touching the outside of the plastic tube and the mains voltage inside is a millimeter or so creepage through the imperfectly sealed joint between the two halves. That can't be legal.
Why skip forward and miss Clive creating a leakage point in his skin....
Thanks :)
These LED strings are quite interesting. I wonder whether they are available at larger sizes and lengths.
4 Watt LED bulb should be like 40 Watt incandescent equivalent. Can you tell if it's anywhere close?
Very nice my friend
This is probably an easy question with a simple answer, is there a reason they use the electrolytic cap instead of a different type that would last longer? Just cost?
Cost, capacity, voltage rating and size.
5:16 _What_ goes through the LED's? 🤨
Current.
Is that a burn mark on the lead going to the LED string? 4:14
I wondered the same thing. Looked like a scorch mark.
You can take a break when you put on a patch 😂
Wish they made ccfl ones tbh
Aluminium gallium indium phosphide and indium gallium nitride, there's a mouthful. Which causes the blue effect Clive?
The base LED colour is a deep violet colour that stimulates the other wavelengths for white light in the phosphor coating. The blue fringe often associated with that technology is unusually bright in this bulb.
Regards Clive,
May be missing something, but seems a while since last live stream...
Don't take my word for it....
Due to TH-cam politics I'm now streaming on twitch. www.twitch.tv/bigclivedotcom
LED /inches, that is a new customary unit 😂🤣😂
i was wondering if they could use something less conducive for the base instead of aluminum 🫠 🔥🤷♂️
Why did this one have that blue light on the sides?
They're blue LED chips with phosphor coating over the top - not enough phosphor has been applied to catch the light coming out the sides
It is not because there isn't enough phosphorescent material on the led at all, it's because of how the light enters the camera lens, if that lens is coated and the arrangement of the lenses causing internal reflections
Technically, there are no white LEDs. These lights have deep blue/UV LEDs coated with a mix of fluorescent pigments to produce the tone of white required.
@@phonotical No, clive clearly states seeing it in person. So it's not just the camera/lens.
@@Eis_BearIs it possible that the clear lens is filtering out colors except for blue, or would the blue be too dim to see if that were the case
I need to replace some smd led strips. I want to be able to adjust their color from red through cold white. In trying to look it up I found out I don’t know what to look up. I have a SAD panel that an LED self destructed on one of the strips. The strip is 5mm wide, 1.6mm thick and 132mm long. What is the verbiage used to describe it? I don’t need it to follow, drip or pulse just adjust the color.
You get RGB and white LED strip and matching four channel dimmers that could probably be used for that.
What was the capacitor's temperature rating, 105° or 85°C?
Usually 105C in these applications.
Couldn't you measure the voltage drop across the current sense resistor to find the total current going into the LED string along with the internal transistor inside the regulator chip
The threshold is usually about 0.6V on the sense resistor.
Just remind me Clive, what's an inch?
About 25mm.
So if the LED's are wired in pairs, does that mean reverse pairs, so that half of them don't get used? Seems a bit of a waste.
Not reverse pairs - they all light.
Each LED drops about 3 Volt. If you connect 2 together in parallel (and both facing the same way), you would still drop 3V across them, at twice the current of 1 LED.
If you connect 2 in series, you would drop twice the Voltage (6V), at the current of one LED.
This bulb makes 100 parallel pairs, then connects those pairs up in series, so you get a string of them 100 long and 2 wide. Then you get 100x the Volt drop (300V) at 2x the current of 1 LED.
If you just put all the LEDs in one string 200 long, you would need 600V to get them to light, and it starts becoming impractical.
a nest of other options available on AE, lots of choices...
id like to see you take appart a hqd vape 15000 puffs
Much as I want to make videos about different vape devices and their technology, TH-cam treats them as promoting vaping and it causes issues.
I've grabbed a few of those with the neat 7-segment displays for battery level and fluid level read outs. There are 13 LEDs within, and 5 connections all to MCU pins through resistors. Hopefully I can work out how to reuse them!
When I see these in decorative lights next to wash sinks I shudder about their safety. No reputable domestic manufacturer would want to put their name onto it. It should say: Test your earth leakage breaker before use.
Awesome Video Big Clive🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂🙂
Ew i HATE how much blue light that first bulb gives i feel like that would either damage your eyes or give you migraines
WTF. WHY DO I HAVE TO KEEP RESUBSCRIBING TO YOU. THIS IS LIKE TENTH TIME IN A MONTH
TH-cam is notorious for regularly unsubscribing viewers.
Just curious as to what this "marvel of engineering" cost ?
There's a link to the listing in the description.
Bugaboo or Bugabear?
🤔
Why done you take the chinese tester apart and fit new test meter etc thats accurate
It can be tuned.
🔥💡
Hi Clive!! 😆🙂🥰💡⚡🔥👍
Clive, you removal of the ES base reminds me of how we stripped pyro in the day. It’s so long ago I’ve no idea if Pyro is still stripped the same way, if Pyro even still exists?
Anyone know?
K
It is still used. I used to do a lot of pyro. I still have the tools somewhere.
Ahh pyro...us chronic dyspraxics loved it but could never get to personally install it being too expensive...I'd practice but by the time I got to install some for real my "muscle memory" forgot. 🤜🏿🤛🏻🧿
What on Earth is Pyro?
@@mrnmrn1 C'mon Clive le"s be avenue...What on Earth is Pyro?
Pyro is a flameproof ridged mains cable. It comes/came in many different numbers of conductors, and the conductors were encased in a copper jacket. Between the jacket and conductors is a chalk-like powder, again flameproof.
Some Pyro cables came with a PVC outer covering, the colour of which varied upon application.
Terminating the end of Pyro cable was an art I perfected as an apprentice when apprenticeships took a minimum of 4 years, not the modern 1 year apprenticeships we see now.
The ends of the cable had to be terminated in a brass screw-on pot that you had to secrete a grey, special flameproof putty into. Putting the putty in, you had to make sure there were no air pockets. There was a "plastic" end that pressed onto the open end of the brass pot that had several guide holes in it depending upon how many conductors there were, and a tool was used to crimp the end onto the brass pot.
The outer copper jacket was the earth.
I live only 2 miles away from the original Pyro factory and had the opportunity to look around it.
I could go on and on about pyro, but I think this is enough to put most folk to sleep!
So the lifetime of these lamps might be different if they are fixed pointing up rather than down, as the heat from the chip would rise towards the capacitor or away from it?
It's going to heat everything inside the metal capsule either way. The heat-dissipating behavior of whatever fixture you put this in will probably have more impact on lifespan.
That has been a thing since the compact fluorescent era. Some lamps were only rated for base-down use.
Probably low power factor.
METRIC ERROR!!!
Too much looking at it wouldn't be great either.
I wonder if they mounted the electrolytic cap on the other side of the board it would help with the heating. I mean, that little lamp base is still going to be an oven, but at least it wouldn't be getting cooked quite so directly by that chip.
So, directly above the regulator making the heat?.......
@@phonotical Just arranged so it's not acting as a direct contact heatsink for that chip.
Test
Test successful.
If only there was some way to send that back through time,
to Thomas Edison,
and see what he would make of it.
Never mind the wonders of bending spacetime,
I just want to see the WTF look on his face.
Especially when it ran on his DC supply.
Some time ago (about 3 or 4 years ago), I watched a video on YT about him and the invention of the light bulb.
He had a journal entry about a flicker that occurred when the bulbs he was working with were first turned on. He never investigated further or he would have discovered the valve.
So I would have to agree with Tesla's opinion about him.