Thank you for this great video, Ufixtec! I decided to re paste and to know the heart of my lovely 14 after 12 years of collaboration. I have opened all my other Dell laptops for maintenance and upgrade with fair ease, but oh! this one was a challenge… hence my waiting this long for open heart surgery . Here is some supplementary advice along with 1/ draining the remaining electricity and 2/ strictly keeping the number of screws for each item separately in a separate container. Advice 1 - Just be aware that the connectors’ plastic slots/flippets are VERY flimsy, and end up being useless after two or three opening and closing!!! I had to TAPE THE ON/OFF RIBBON down to the MB as the power button wouldn’t respond, it took me 2 or 3 tries to get it right. Fortunately with the blue indicator of the power cable remaining blue I could see that there was no shortage on the MB. Advice 2 - The keyboard ribbon slot is also super fragile as seen on the video, do not loose the removable part that holds the ribbon. So as shown on the video, no cable pulling hard directly, use a plastic tool to dislodge plugged ribbons and other connections ; the fan was the hardest to dislodge, then the left handside motherboard with the audio ports. Good luck 🤞🏼
Thank you for the feedback! if you wish to support the channel you can LIKE or SUB or both :P regarding your feedback: all good point, i been doing this for over 18years, the flex cables that have flip cover are safe for opening more than 50time or more without any issues, you may had a bad latch on one of your connectors, and if you pull those flex cable without opening the latch then ya you will have to replace the flex cable. regarding the keyboard flex cable connector hell ya if you loose it then you will need to cut a flat .3mm plastic to slid it under flex to push the connectors. much appreciate your awesome feedback my friend :) if you have any question or request in the future feel free to ask me.
Thank you! This pretty much saved me from insanity. The only thing different on mine -- I also have an R1 -- was that in order to get the hinges off, I had to remove the two screws under the hinges marked "D" on the baseplate. They're mixed on the same side as all the screws marked "P". Does yours not have those or did you skip that because you didn't expect to take off the hinges? Just curious and it turned out not to be a big deal as soon as I figured out why the hinges wouldn't come off as easily as yours did! Also, did you put the tape on the CPU and GPU because you used a metal-based paste? I couldn't figure out any other reason. Other than the hinge thing, this "surgery" went very well -- your video was absolutely the best. I also bought things through your links so hopefully you get a few pennies from it. Thanks again!
Thank you for the feedback and your support to the channel by a SUB:P regarding your question: @6:37 when i removed all the screws the hinge screws was included (prnt.sc/10xvf6w) YES always use the tape 33+ if using the Liquid metal else, i would recommend using this: none conductive and no tape required and also its almost the same result as liquid metal only 5c difference. amzn.to/3lYGnYF and i appreciate all the support and helps :P
Thank you for providing your valuable feedback! If you are interested in supporting the channel, we kindly encourage you to consider liking and subscribing to it. Regarding your inquiry, we have extensively experimented with various products, including Kapton tape. While Kapton tape is known for its superior quality, we found that its adhesive's strength or viscosity is relatively weak. Consequently, there is a possibility for liquid metal to leak underneath the tape. In our experience, we highly recommend using the 33+ tape. Over the span of 9 years, we have consistently utilized this tape for liquid metal applications without encountering any issues with our clients or equipment. Should you have any further questions or require assistance in the future, please feel free to reach out.
@@uFixTek thank you for your fast response sir i wasn't sure and thought id ask because i had used that on a playstation 2 system when i installed a mod chip and worked great i wasn't sure if that would work would you suggest brand of tape to use on the alienware m14 system or will just any work sir?
It's my pleasure my friend. 😊 Thank you for taking the time to give feedback! If you would like to support the channel, please like, subscribe, or both. :P Should you have any questions or requests in the future, please don't hesitate to ask me. 🍻cheers
Muchimas gracias por este vidéo!! It is the best I have found to totally dismantle this Alienware. I have applied paste to a few Dells with so much ease but this one is a real challenge. So far I have managed to remove the fan, clean it up but my fan is still screaming it’s heart out, so I will apply paste. One glitch I have found out though, HwInfo suggests that the « Alienware Compal Ec » sensor misreads temperature so it needs to be disabled to rather rely on the integrated cpu (in my case Intel iCore 7 enhance). I believe the glitch with my fan started after a windows update.
por nada amigo, si cambia la pasta termica a una marca buena como thermal Grizzly amzn.to/3R9KAIr amzn.to/3R6Q6eL installa windows 11 esta mejorado en sensores.
I am using Artic silver paste 3 too which has worked well on the Dells I have reposted. (By the way, Soy unA amigA) 👩 y gracias de nuevo por la calidad de tus videos☺️ !
disculpame amiga :P si el artic silver es muy espeso y es bueno para rellenar, gracias por el apoyo al canal, cuando tengas algun duda o pregunta me puedes hacer aqui , saludos y disculpame por el error en espanish, hablo 6 idiomas me confundo aveces :(
The little holder with legs that can be seen at 30:00 broke on my laptop, is there a way to hold the ribbon cable in without having to buy another motherboard?
Thank you for the feedback! if you wish to support the channel you can LIKE or SUB or both :P regarding your question: hell you don't need a new mobo just because of the broken flex lock lol, can you send me an email with pics closeup and far different angles. so i can examine the damage and pic of the broken parts. ask@ufixtek.com
Hi, i did this but accidentally broke the stick parts of the piece that locks the ribbon cables in during the process, are there replacement parts for them because the keyboard doesnt work now that its ribbon cable isnt properly in, both 30:00 and 31:46
Thank you for your feedback! If you wish to support the channel, you can like, subscribe, or both! Regarding your question, you could remove the slider that is broken and slide a pice of plastic with .2m thick under flex, else you will need to go to any repair shop and ask them to sell you the slider of tell them place the flex , or get the jack on aliexpress: www.aliexpress.com/item/32898159588.html and ask them to solder it for you, or remove the slider from the aliexpress one and place it in your jack. check the pictures and makesure the jack you purchasing has the same amout of pins. Should you have any further questions or requests in the future, please don't hesitate to ask me. cheers🍻
@@uFixTek hi, i wasnt talking about the connector itself, i was talking about the little plastic thing that you push inside of the pins to hold the ribbon cable in place, if you have information for that it would be really appreciated, thanks 👍
Bonjour comment allez-vous j'ai la Même PC j'ai un soucis actuellement il ya des traits horizontal sur mon écran couleurs vert et rouge pas beaucoup sa peu être du à quoi et y'a il une solution
Merci pour vos commentaires ! Si vous souhaitez soutenir la chaîne, vous pouvez aimer, vous abonner, ou les deux ! En ce qui concerne votre question, il n'y a pas de solution pour réparer ces lignes à l'écran, vous devrez remplacer l'affichage, les lignes pourraient commencer à devenir plus nombreuses.
i been using this 33+ it wont degrade and the opposite with time it gets even better , no shrinkage nor coming off. i have tested different brands of " conformal coating" off amazon and most of them *all after 8 months they start cracking and opening gaps. i highly recommend the 33+ or a kapton tape .
Thats the best thermal paste, you will need to reopen and repaste and place a fair amound of paste the paste is not conductive, and before you put it back take a picture when placing the paste and post here, make sure you clean the heatsink and die , and that the heatsink is sitting flush, and i hope you have not replace the pads with a thicker pads else the thicker pads will push off the heatsink,
@@uFixTek the thermal pads are too old and falling apart when you touch them, maybe that’s it? can i exchange them for new ones? do you know the size and millimeter of them?
don't worry about the pads, your CPU and GPU temps has absolutely nothing to do with pads, the laptop dont even need the pads, if you are not overclocking the pads are there for those people that overclock the laptop. therefor just double check your repaste leave the pads alone for now.
Thank you for this great video, Ufixtec!
I decided to re paste and to know the heart of my lovely 14 after 12 years of collaboration. I have opened all my other Dell laptops for maintenance and upgrade with fair ease, but oh! this one was a challenge… hence my waiting this long for open heart surgery .
Here is some supplementary advice along with
1/ draining the remaining electricity and 2/ strictly keeping the number of screws for each item separately in a separate container.
Advice 1
- Just be aware that the connectors’ plastic slots/flippets are VERY flimsy, and end up being useless after two or three opening and closing!!!
I had to TAPE THE ON/OFF RIBBON down to the MB as the power button wouldn’t respond, it took me 2 or 3 tries to get it right. Fortunately with the blue indicator of the power cable remaining blue I could see that there was no shortage on the MB.
Advice 2
- The keyboard ribbon slot is also super fragile as seen on the video, do not loose the removable part that holds the ribbon.
So as shown on the video, no cable pulling hard directly, use a plastic tool to dislodge plugged ribbons and other connections ; the fan was the hardest to dislodge, then the left handside motherboard with the audio ports.
Good luck 🤞🏼
Thank you for the feedback! if you wish to support the channel you can LIKE or SUB or both :P
regarding your feedback: all good point, i been doing this for over 18years, the flex cables that have flip cover are safe for opening more than 50time or more without any issues, you may had a bad latch on one of your connectors, and if you pull those flex cable without opening the latch then ya you will have to replace the flex cable. regarding the keyboard flex cable connector hell ya if you loose it then you will need to cut a flat .3mm plastic to slid it under flex to push the connectors.
much appreciate your awesome feedback my friend :)
if you have any question or request in the future feel free to ask me.
Thank you! This pretty much saved me from insanity. The only thing different on mine -- I also have an R1 -- was that in order to get the hinges off, I had to remove the two screws under the hinges marked "D" on the baseplate. They're mixed on the same side as all the screws marked "P". Does yours not have those or did you skip that because you didn't expect to take off the hinges? Just curious and it turned out not to be a big deal as soon as I figured out why the hinges wouldn't come off as easily as yours did!
Also, did you put the tape on the CPU and GPU because you used a metal-based paste? I couldn't figure out any other reason.
Other than the hinge thing, this "surgery" went very well -- your video was absolutely the best. I also bought things through your links so hopefully you get a few pennies from it. Thanks again!
Thank you for the feedback and your support to the channel by a SUB:P
regarding your question: @6:37 when i removed all the screws the hinge screws was included (prnt.sc/10xvf6w)
YES always use the tape 33+ if using the Liquid metal else, i would recommend using this:
none conductive and no tape required and also its almost the same result as liquid metal only 5c difference.
amzn.to/3lYGnYF
and i appreciate all the support and helps :P
great video and detailed can you use Kapton Tape High Temperature Heat Resistant Polyimide in place of electrical tape sir and would it work better ?
Thank you for providing your valuable feedback! If you are interested in supporting the channel, we kindly encourage you to consider liking and subscribing to it.
Regarding your inquiry, we have extensively experimented with various products, including Kapton tape. While Kapton tape is known for its superior quality, we found that its adhesive's strength or viscosity is relatively weak. Consequently, there is a possibility for liquid metal to leak underneath the tape.
In our experience, we highly recommend using the 33+ tape. Over the span of 9 years, we have consistently utilized this tape for liquid metal applications without encountering any issues with our clients or equipment.
Should you have any further questions or require assistance in the future, please feel free to reach out.
@@uFixTek thank you for your fast response sir i wasn't sure and thought id ask because i had used that on a playstation 2 system when i installed a mod chip and worked great i wasn't sure if that would work would you suggest brand of tape to use on the alienware m14 system or will just any work sir?
it is my pleasure my friend , i recommend to get this: amzn.to/3BMN5JW
33+ electrical tape
Thank you brother after repasting my GPU doesn't go above 70c and my fans dont sound like airplane when watching TH-cam
It's my pleasure my friend. 😊 Thank you for taking the time to give feedback! If you would like to support the channel, please like, subscribe, or both. :P
Should you have any questions or requests in the future, please don't hesitate to ask me.
🍻cheers
Muchimas gracias por este vidéo!! It is the best I have found to totally dismantle this Alienware. I have applied paste to a few Dells with so much ease but this one is a real challenge. So far I have managed to remove the fan, clean it up but my fan is still screaming it’s heart out, so I will apply paste.
One glitch I have found out though, HwInfo suggests that the « Alienware Compal Ec » sensor misreads temperature so it needs to be disabled to rather rely on the integrated cpu (in my case Intel iCore 7 enhance). I believe the glitch with my fan started after a windows update.
por nada amigo, si cambia la pasta termica a una marca buena como thermal Grizzly amzn.to/3R9KAIr
amzn.to/3R6Q6eL
installa windows 11 esta mejorado en sensores.
I am using Artic silver paste 3 too which has worked well on the Dells I have reposted.
(By the way, Soy unA amigA) 👩 y gracias de nuevo por la calidad de tus videos☺️ !
disculpame amiga :P si el artic silver es muy espeso y es bueno para rellenar, gracias por el apoyo al canal, cuando tengas algun duda o pregunta me puedes hacer aqui , saludos y disculpame por el error en espanish, hablo 6 idiomas me confundo aveces :(
The little holder with legs that can be seen at 30:00 broke on my laptop, is there a way to hold the ribbon cable in without having to buy another motherboard?
Thank you for the feedback! if you wish to support the channel you can LIKE or SUB or both :P
regarding your question: hell you don't need a new mobo just because of the broken flex lock lol, can you send me an email with pics closeup and far different angles. so i can examine the damage and pic of the broken parts.
ask@ufixtek.com
Hi, i did this but accidentally broke the stick parts of the piece that locks the ribbon cables in during the process, are there replacement parts for them because the keyboard doesnt work now that its ribbon cable isnt properly in, both 30:00 and 31:46
Thank you for your feedback! If you wish to support the channel, you can like, subscribe, or both!
Regarding your question, you could remove the slider that is broken and slide a pice of plastic with .2m thick under flex, else you will need to go to any repair shop and ask them to sell you the slider of tell them place the flex , or get the jack on aliexpress: www.aliexpress.com/item/32898159588.html
and ask them to solder it for you, or remove the slider from the aliexpress one and place it in your jack. check the pictures and makesure the jack you purchasing has the same amout of pins.
Should you have any further questions or requests in the future, please don't hesitate to ask me.
cheers🍻
@@uFixTek hi, i wasnt talking about the connector itself, i was talking about the little plastic thing that you push inside of the pins to hold the ribbon cable in place, if you have information for that it would be really appreciated, thanks 👍
that they dont sell individually get the jack from the link i send you and pull out the plastic slider and place it in yours.
Bonjour comment allez-vous j'ai la Même PC j'ai un soucis actuellement il ya des traits horizontal sur mon écran couleurs vert et rouge pas beaucoup sa peu être du à quoi et y'a il une solution
Merci pour vos commentaires ! Si vous souhaitez soutenir la chaîne, vous pouvez aimer, vous abonner, ou les deux !
En ce qui concerne votre question, il n'y a pas de solution pour réparer ces lignes à l'écran, vous devrez remplacer l'affichage, les lignes pourraient commencer à devenir plus nombreuses.
I’m not sure about the tape you used mostly these electrical tapes degrade and come off. I’d recommend using a proper conformal coating.
i been using this 33+ it wont degrade and the opposite with time it gets even better , no shrinkage nor coming off.
i have tested different brands of " conformal coating" off amazon and most of them *all after 8 months they start cracking and opening gaps. i highly recommend the 33+ or a kapton tape .
I have a question: why was there no tape on the lower side of the cpu?
because there was no need for it as there are no capacitors there but if you like you can add
my Alien 14 got 91c on gaming after repast
What paste you used?, something is not right with repaste you did.
@@uFixTek kryonaut thermal grizzly 12,5 wm/k, says its designed for Overcloking, maybe i need apply more paste on heatsink?
Thats the best thermal paste, you will need to reopen and repaste and place a fair amound of paste the paste is not conductive, and before you put it back take a picture when placing the paste and post here, make sure you clean the heatsink and die , and that the heatsink is sitting flush, and i hope you have not replace the pads with a thicker pads else the thicker pads will push off the heatsink,
@@uFixTek the thermal pads are too old and falling apart when you touch them, maybe that’s it? can i exchange them for new ones? do you know the size and millimeter of them?
don't worry about the pads, your CPU and GPU temps has absolutely nothing to do with pads, the laptop dont even need the pads, if you are not overclocking the pads are there for those people that overclock the laptop. therefor just double check your repaste leave the pads alone for now.