For all you DIYers out there watching, do not put any sort of "stop leak" or "leak stop" in your A/C system ever. It is designed to expand and "plug" the leaking area so while yes it stops the leak it also creates a whole other set of much more expensive problems later on down the road, rather than just spending a little bit of money and fixing it right when it first starts leaking. The cool little "recharge" bottles you buy at the parts stores almost ALL have some sort of stop leak in them. Stop leak clogs your condenser, evaporator, orifice tube (or TXV), and accumulator (or receiver drier). More critically it destroys your compressor (generally the most expensive part in your A/C system), whether that be in a matter of weeks or maybe a year. It prematurely wears out the compressor due to the abrasive expanding media that gets cycled throughout your system. Once it is continually cycled through your compressor, your compressor is now permanently damaged and starts self degrading (shooting small metal shavings/chunks from itself) throughout your whole A/C system, further clogging your condenser, evaporator, orifice tube, TXV, etc. Even if you change the system parts surrounding your compressor, your system will never ever work at the same efficiency again due to the continual self-degradation of the compressor. As an auto technician i have seen this occur time and time again. Not only those horrible things but many shops wont even service your A/C system if it contains stop leak due to how harmful it is on their $4000+ recovery machines (it ruins them). Most shops will only do a whole A/C system replacement for this very reason (it containing stop leak). Before someone says "i put stop leak in mine and my A/C works just fine" Yeah it might work fine right now but not as good and as cold as it is designed to and not for very long. And those that aren't convinced i suggest you study up on how an A/C system works and how detrimental it is to have the correct pressures and volume of refrigerant and for their to be no moisture and the process that goes into achieving that because if you understood the purpose and importance behind just the vacuum process and correct pressures, you wouldn't dare add a foreign volume and pressure to that system, especially while the system now contains moisture from the leak you're "trying to fix". Unfortunately many of the cheapskates/brokeskates that will read this comment will use it anyway and find out the expensive way. Don't take my word for it i'm just a guy in the comments.
Hope it stops your leak I repair Automotive A.C. full time the dye on your frame rail lots of times is coming from the evaporator drain it funs that path and as it drains and leaks it brings oil and dye out with it I change 2-3 of these each season fingers crossed you found your leak my guess is you didn"t.
Just replaced my core this weekend....about 10 hours of total work No more leaks through evaporator. Still have a small leak though valve. Hopefully new part, oil, and o-rings will stop leak for good.
How many miles were on the vehicle? I am getting no cold air, had to fill it a few times, then it stopped cooling all together. I ended up adding a SPAL 16" fan, since it appears to be a known issue with Ram. I am replacing the AC, Expansion valve, and then vacuum/refill. I am getting low psi on the high side, so hope this fixes the issue. You say your core inside was the issue. How did you finally figure that out? Leak test?
Beee Geee 125k on the clock now. After I did that vid I ran a leak test since it wouldn't hold and freon. Ended up being the evap in the dash. I ordered one off rock auto 69.00 and had the dealer I bought the truck from do the install. If I get in it takes a bit to cool down and it's because of the clutch but I'm not spending 300+ to replace it only to gain a few more min of cooling.
Christopher Nash I put the spal 16" elec fan on for that same reason. Not sure what Dodge was thinking by not putting a pusher fan on these trucks, but then again, these same brainiacs didnt put cabin filters in either....
Apparently there are two part numbers for the replacement expansion valve. One model is for "auto" climate control and the other is for "manual" climate control. Most vehicles are manual, meaning there are selector knobs for the climate controls and the auto is a single push button (from what I was told by the dealership). You will notice the difference between the two based on the following: Manual - Larger, slightly longer body and the high/low side orifice tubes openings are spaced farther apart. The threaded stud, which holds the high/low side pipes into the body, is a thicker diameter than the auto model. The new replacements for both models do not have the plastic tube on the plunger. I will come back lated and add the part numbers for both, which are non Delco PNs. I replaced my whole kit this weekend, had to wait 3 days to get the right one in from Autozone, since the kit I purchased was shipped with the "auto" type. Oreilly's and Napa didn't have in it their system, Autozone did but had to special order. I may make a video of the differences, but wanted to get this info out there in case someone is ordering parts. I will come back and add the part numbers later.....
So AC pump worked for 2 days..... It was coolong fine, but just started up truck and heard a strange noise. The compressor is smoking at the clutch, burning rubber. I used the oil from the kit, measured what came out of the pump when shipped, put in the same amount which was 5 oz, plus 2 oz more, totalling 7 oz. Sticker underhood, for freon, shows 1.37 lbs, which I measur3d with scale...... This is not a oem compressor, so looks like a faulty unit. Even evacuated the system for 1 hour. Great.
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
For all you DIYers out there watching, do not put any sort of "stop leak" or "leak stop" in your A/C system ever. It is designed to expand and "plug" the leaking area so while yes it stops the leak it also creates a whole other set of much more expensive problems later on down the road, rather than just spending a little bit of money and fixing it right when it first starts leaking.
The cool little "recharge" bottles you buy at the parts stores almost ALL have some sort of stop leak in them. Stop leak clogs your condenser, evaporator, orifice tube (or TXV), and accumulator (or receiver drier). More critically it destroys your compressor (generally the most expensive part in your A/C system), whether that be in a matter of weeks or maybe a year. It prematurely wears out the compressor due to the abrasive expanding media that gets cycled throughout your system. Once it is continually cycled through your compressor, your compressor is now permanently damaged and starts self degrading (shooting small metal shavings/chunks from itself) throughout your whole A/C system, further clogging your condenser, evaporator, orifice tube, TXV, etc.
Even if you change the system parts surrounding your compressor, your system will never ever work at the same efficiency again due to the continual self-degradation of the compressor. As an auto technician i have seen this occur time and time again. Not only those horrible things but many shops wont even service your A/C system if it contains stop leak due to how harmful it is on their $4000+ recovery machines (it ruins them). Most shops will only do a whole A/C system replacement for this very reason (it containing stop leak).
Before someone says "i put stop leak in mine and my A/C works just fine" Yeah it might work fine right now but not as good and as cold as it is designed to and not for very long. And those that aren't convinced i suggest you study up on how an A/C system works and how detrimental it is to have the correct pressures and volume of refrigerant and for their to be no moisture and the process that goes into achieving that because if you understood the purpose and importance behind just the vacuum process and correct pressures, you wouldn't dare add a foreign volume and pressure to that system, especially while the system now contains moisture from the leak you're "trying to fix".
Unfortunately many of the cheapskates/brokeskates that will read this comment will use it anyway and find out the expensive way. Don't take my word for it i'm just a guy in the comments.
Hope it stops your leak I repair Automotive A.C. full time the dye on your frame rail lots of times is coming from the evaporator drain it funs that path and as it drains and leaks it brings oil and dye out with it I change 2-3 of these each season fingers crossed you found your leak my guess is you didn"t.
So would it be the evaporator?
Just replaced my core this weekend....about 10 hours of total work No more leaks through evaporator. Still have a small leak though valve. Hopefully new part, oil, and o-rings will stop leak for good.
What size and diameter are those two bolts that fit the expansion valve? I could not find that size anywhere in the store
Instead of recharging it use the vacuum to detect the leak by means of pressure loss.
How would you find the leak location?
I would of put the same Denso brand back in there if it was OEM, specs maybe little different with other TXV's.
Did swapping out the valve fix the leak?? I have the exact same problem right now with mine
Unfortunately it didn’t. I had a leak in the evaporator inside the cab.
@@ChristopherNash that's what I'm finding I'm about to start taking the dash off this evening. Thanks for you're video and commenting back
Did you put o rings between the heater core and the expansion valve?
Matt Kokokouris of I remember I believe so. Please reference a repair manual to confirm.
Should have just put an evaporator core in to start with because that's what leaks
Was it making a hissing noise under the dash?
Do not recall a hissing noise
How many miles were on the vehicle? I am getting no cold air, had to fill it a few times, then it stopped cooling all together. I ended up adding a SPAL 16" fan, since it appears to be a known issue with Ram. I am replacing the AC, Expansion valve, and then vacuum/refill. I am getting low psi on the high side, so hope this fixes the issue. You say your core inside was the issue. How did you finally figure that out? Leak test?
Beee Geee 125k on the clock now. After I did that vid I ran a leak test since it wouldn't hold and freon. Ended up being the evap in the dash. I ordered one off rock auto 69.00 and had the dealer I bought the truck from do the install.
If I get in it takes a bit to cool down and it's because of the clutch but I'm not spending 300+ to replace it only to gain a few more min of cooling.
Christopher Nash I put the spal 16" elec fan on for that same reason. Not sure what Dodge was thinking by not putting a pusher fan on these trucks, but then again, these same brainiacs didnt put cabin filters in either....
I just did the cabin air filter mod from geno's garage.
Apparently there are two part numbers for the replacement expansion valve. One model is for "auto" climate control and the other is for "manual" climate control. Most vehicles are manual, meaning there are selector knobs for the climate controls and the auto is a single push button (from what I was told by the dealership).
You will notice the difference between the two based on the following:
Manual - Larger, slightly longer body and the high/low side orifice tubes openings are spaced farther apart. The threaded stud, which holds the high/low side pipes into the body, is a thicker diameter than the auto model. The new replacements for both models do not have the plastic tube on the plunger. I will come back lated and add the part numbers for both, which are non Delco PNs.
I replaced my whole kit this weekend, had to wait 3 days to get the right one in from Autozone, since the kit I purchased was shipped with the "auto" type. Oreilly's and Napa didn't have in it their system, Autozone did but had to special order. I may make a video of the differences, but wanted to get this info out there in case someone is ordering parts. I will come back and add the part numbers later.....
So AC pump worked for 2 days..... It was coolong fine, but just started up truck and heard a strange noise. The compressor is smoking at the clutch, burning rubber. I used the oil from the kit, measured what came out of the pump when shipped, put in the same amount which was 5 oz, plus 2 oz more, totalling 7 oz. Sticker underhood, for freon, shows 1.37 lbs, which I measur3d with scale...... This is not a oem compressor, so looks like a faulty unit. Even evacuated the system for 1 hour. Great.
How do I know the problem Valve Ac
We're the orifice tube at brother
No orifice tube on a system with TXV. The TXV is used in lieu of orifice tube.