I have an antique crank turned pencil sharpener with a rotating hole diameter option for different size pencils or dowels that I have used successfully.
Is there a certain depth on those points? I'm only asking as I've always measured arrows from the bottom of the nock groove then added a bit on to compensate for the taper. I'm just wondering if you did that when you cut the arrows to length then used the method with the file to get the exact depth? Also is your Big Jig suitable for smaller diameter shafts like 5/16 & 11/32 or is it mainly for bigger diameters?
Hi, I measure the depth of each head as they are hand forged and can vary. You can use the big jig for what ever size you want, though personally I would use a metal jig for smaller diameters.
Richard Head Longbows When you were trimming back to the shoulder, you were cutting toward your thumb. It's a "safety phrase" that helps the young remember more easily.
Extremely helpful... thanks for sharing!!
Glad it helped!
I have an antique crank turned pencil sharpener with a rotating hole diameter option for different size pencils or dowels that I have used successfully.
Brilliant!
Hi, are there any drawbacks to burning the heads on?
Man thanks been wandering how to do this with out a Taber tool
Hi Keegan, glad to help, you may find our bow/arrow making website useful. www.howtomakealongbow.co.uk
Sorry if i missed it, but what kind of glue are you using, if any? Thanks for the great videos
I tend to use a 2 part epoxy
thanks!
No problem!
Is there a certain depth on those points? I'm only asking as I've always measured arrows from the bottom of the nock groove then added a bit on to compensate for the taper.
I'm just wondering if you did that when you cut the arrows to length then used the method with the file to get the exact depth?
Also is your Big Jig suitable for smaller diameter shafts like 5/16 & 11/32 or is it mainly for bigger diameters?
Hi, I measure the depth of each head as they are hand forged and can vary. You can use the big jig for what ever size you want, though personally I would use a metal jig for smaller diameters.
A wood lathe would be best.
beeswax holds them on. but when an enemy picks one of yours up to shoot at you it falls off.
Glue name?
epoxy
That is spire not arrow!?
Oi, cut toward your chum, not your thumb! Just a friendly reminder.
I am not sure what that means, but thanks!
Richard Head Longbows
When you were trimming back to the shoulder, you were cutting toward your thumb. It's a "safety phrase" that helps the young remember more easily.
I was about to post this, I've seen the result from those who didn't heed