Again very informational video. Two remarks though. 1. Leaving the network connected devices to automatic/DHCP only works when connected to a router with a DHCP server active to hand out the IP-addresses. You can connect a laptop to the receiver directly, but you have to manually assign IP-addresses and the same subnet mask to all devices to get it to work without a router in between. 2. In your video you describe an active directional paddle antenna. There are also passive directional paddle antennas. You can use both for microphone receivers. However, for in ear transmitters, you can only use the passive ones.
This is incorrect. You can plug all units into a simple dumb switch along with your computer. If all devices are set for AUTO/DHCP, including the computer, the devices will resolve to link-local IP addresses and be able to be located and controlled on the network.
Thank you. This was all great information. While I knew 90% of this, it is amazing how many of these rules I have been breaking. It is great to be reminded that we can always use a bit of a reminder now and then.
Great video once again, Andrew! Quick note on gain on active antennas. Antenna gain is used to compensate for signal loss over longer antenna cables. If you try to turn up the gain to compensate for low rf signal you will increase all rf signals, including the noise floor, so your signal-to-noise-floor ratio will stay the same. Shure has a great calculator that shows what gain-setting to use with what type of cable and which length! 90% of the time, just leave it at 0 gain.
Great video! I dabble in wireless - I own four channels of A-T Series 3000 and while they are not all that popular for rentals, they do a great job in terms of performance. I generally don't have to use a scanning program but I am trying to learn how to use them. It all makes a certain amount of sense for me until it comes to reading and interpreting the graphs on screen. I think my "audio eyes" have a problem understanding the data info.
what about antenna extension cables? For example rack mount units with 1/4 wave antennas mounted on the rear of the unit that have the option for front mounting. Are the cables interchangeable as well? I ask because I currently have a galaxy audio unit and when I purchased some extension cables with the proper BNC connector ends, when mounted on the front there is terrible static underlying the signal. Its like the noise floor jumped up.
With coaxial cables such as antenna cables, you need to look for the right characteristic impedance. This is not the same is input/output impedance in analog audio, so if anything came to your mind that you know about the input and output impedance of audio devices, don't think of it any further because characteristic impedance is an entirely different thing. Characteristic impedance describes the impedance (resistance) of the cable itself (and not the input or output) because HF signals, such as those picked up by wireless antennas (but also video, digital signals such as AES3 and DMX and more), travel so fast that the impedance/resistance on the other end (that determines the current flow) doesn't get to them fast enough, so the cable needs to have the same characteristic impedance as what's on the other end. This means that you need an impedance-matched system. In terms of antenna cables, everything is 50 ohms. So you need to make sure that the 50 ohm output of the antenna is connected to the 50 ohm input of the receiver by nothing other than a 50 ohm cable that's terminated with 50 ohm connectors. Otherwise, it's like hitting a wall for the signal and the signal gets reflected at the point of the impedance mismatch, causing disturbances. Sometimes, cables don't say the characteristic impedance on them. The term you want to look for on the cable is "RG-58", if it doesn't say that or 50 ohms, it's quite likely that you've got the wrong cable.
@ these are standard rg58 24inch extension cables. But when installed there is quite a bit of static present. I’m starting to wonder if maybe there is a ground loop present. I may have to check to see if isolating the panel mount connectors with some rubber washers takes care of it.
Again very informational video. Two remarks though.
1. Leaving the network connected devices to automatic/DHCP only works when connected to a router with a DHCP server active to hand out the IP-addresses. You can connect a laptop to the receiver directly, but you have to manually assign IP-addresses and the same subnet mask to all devices to get it to work without a router in between.
2. In your video you describe an active directional paddle antenna. There are also passive directional paddle antennas. You can use both for microphone receivers. However, for in ear transmitters, you can only use the passive ones.
This is incorrect. You can plug all units into a simple dumb switch along with your computer. If all devices are set for AUTO/DHCP, including the computer, the devices will resolve to link-local IP addresses and be able to be located and controlled on the network.
Awesome video! Great information throughout.
Please do one on wireless IEMs too!!🙏
Thank you. This was all great information. While I knew 90% of this, it is amazing how many of these rules I have been breaking. It is great to be reminded that we can always use a bit of a reminder now and then.
Great video once again, Andrew!
Quick note on gain on active antennas. Antenna gain is used to compensate for signal loss over longer antenna cables. If you try to turn up the gain to compensate for low rf signal you will increase all rf signals, including the noise floor, so your signal-to-noise-floor ratio will stay the same. Shure has a great calculator that shows what gain-setting to use with what type of cable and which length! 90% of the time, just leave it at 0 gain.
All i do is just connect to the mixer and ready to go 😂.
Learned to scan new frequency
Thanks alot again for a great stuff
Great video! I dabble in wireless - I own four channels of A-T Series 3000 and while they are not all that popular for rentals, they do a great job in terms of performance. I generally don't have to use a scanning program but I am trying to learn how to use them. It all makes a certain amount of sense for me until it comes to reading and interpreting the graphs on screen. I think my "audio eyes" have a problem understanding the data info.
Thank you. This was all great information
thank you for this video, very clear :)
You have the ULXD Quad or Dual?
How well do the Sennheiser XSW-D XLR Base Set work? If I buy 5-10 pairs of them, will it still work well, or will they interfere with each other?
what about antenna extension cables? For example rack mount units with 1/4 wave antennas mounted on the rear of the unit that have the option for front mounting. Are the cables interchangeable as well? I ask because I currently have a galaxy audio unit and when I purchased some extension cables with the proper BNC connector ends, when mounted on the front there is terrible static underlying the signal. Its like the noise floor jumped up.
With coaxial cables such as antenna cables, you need to look for the right characteristic impedance. This is not the same is input/output impedance in analog audio, so if anything came to your mind that you know about the input and output impedance of audio devices, don't think of it any further because characteristic impedance is an entirely different thing. Characteristic impedance describes the impedance (resistance) of the cable itself (and not the input or output) because HF signals, such as those picked up by wireless antennas (but also video, digital signals such as AES3 and DMX and more), travel so fast that the impedance/resistance on the other end (that determines the current flow) doesn't get to them fast enough, so the cable needs to have the same characteristic impedance as what's on the other end. This means that you need an impedance-matched system. In terms of antenna cables, everything is 50 ohms. So you need to make sure that the 50 ohm output of the antenna is connected to the 50 ohm input of the receiver by nothing other than a 50 ohm cable that's terminated with 50 ohm connectors. Otherwise, it's like hitting a wall for the signal and the signal gets reflected at the point of the impedance mismatch, causing disturbances. Sometimes, cables don't say the characteristic impedance on them. The term you want to look for on the cable is "RG-58", if it doesn't say that or 50 ohms, it's quite likely that you've got the wrong cable.
@ these are standard rg58 24inch extension cables. But when installed there is quite a bit of static present. I’m starting to wonder if maybe there is a ground loop present. I may have to check to see if isolating the panel mount connectors with some rubber washers takes care of it.
❤
0:01 why his mic looks elongated😮
Could be AI generated. Tho i'm not sure 😀
4:24ish.... hmmmm network cables carry RF ...