As a former toolmaker I'd recommend a silicone based lube for lead screw, and clean with a microfiber towel, not an air hose. I'd viewed many vids online with ones blowing off debris with air. Air is the worst application one can apply around any computerized equipment; and guys stop blowing your clothes off with an air hose you're going to end up in an ER - just my thoughts from years experience.
Loose screws - on a machine of that size, I'd appreciate loose screws on delivery, actually. Something this big and comparatively lightweight has quite some flex to it and will also have bent and twisted during delivery. So, instead of that force going straight onto the structual bits, it'd be better for the machine to be able to give a little. I'd then first set up a stable, flat and very level foundation and then place the thing on there and carefully, step by step measure for parallel with a micrometer and for squareness with a machinist square, then fasten screws and tap with a rubber mallet until i get the precision i'd like to have. Also, all grease traps need feeding, then.
I would use a torque wrench and verify that every screw is tightened to specification. As for lubricant, I recommend using either a good sewing machine oil or mineral oil as these will lubricate the equipment without risk of residue build up.
David - I have this same machine coming and was wondering what would be the ideal dimensions for the workbench tabletop? The Carbide site says the footprint of the machine is 60 x 35 inches. What are your table's measurements? It's hard to tell, but it looks like the front of your machine overhangs just a bit, but it seems you have space behind the machine. I assume there is a reason you can't push the machine further back, but I just can't see it. Please let me know what you would recommend the tabletop be size wise.
Thanks David, I had this high on my list. No longer. Not that I'm not capable of doing all the fixes, but for the money I'd ecpect a great deal more quality. To many vidoes that are unspocered where theres parts issues and quality issues. Goof luck. I hope the machine serves you well.
Great review. I had a 3 XXL and now have a 4 Pro. The 3 XXL was a great machine. In retrospect I should have kept it, as I have had a few issues with the 4 Pro. I am looking into the 5 pro as I could use the extra cutting space, and I like the improvements (in theory) over the 4 Pro.
I have the exact same complaints, I moved my bit zero up to the gantry , just extend the 3 wires .added a z brake to hold spindle up on power down, added air and coolant,to mineOH LETS NOT FORGET THE LOOSE SCREWS! LOL GREAT VID BUD!
Great review. I just sold my SO3XXL and will be ordering a 5 Pro. On the pauses, it's definitely Carbide Motion. I installed the latest Carbide Motion on my SO3XXL and all those pauses are now there. My machine wouldn't work right on V6 of motion correctly, so downgraded to V5.
It's a shame that most of these desktop systems are put together as if they're home-made. That wiring is a mess and should have been done with cables to keep it clean. The 5 Pro is clearly their best system, but it just doesn't cross the finish line, IMO.
For your dust collection it is possible to share the "trigger" wire in the VFD and run it to a Relay that matches the voltage of the trigger, if there isn't enough current coming from the board, you can add a transistor as a "pre-Relay" before the relay using another power source for the current to operate the larger relay. It is advised to use a diode in between the vfd and the relay to eliminate any feedback to the board or vfd. I know this may be out of a lot of people's ability to do, but I just thought I'd put it out there. You can find videos to do this, "using a NPN transistor as a relay" or replace with PNP depending on the polarity of the voltage being used.
If you are not mixing “way” oil with coolant a la milling machine Mobil 1 5-30 should do fine . Locktite hardware as you go over it . I have a 3 and the wiring has always been a chore to keep routed
Damn brother. Thanks for making this. I have their older pro. It’s okay at best. I’m looking at another brand all together so many times I’ll be in the middle of a long cut file and the damn thing just stops. It’s still spinning but the machine freezes so I have to start all over again
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As a former toolmaker I'd recommend a silicone based lube for lead screw, and clean with a microfiber towel, not an air hose. I'd viewed many vids online with ones blowing off debris with air. Air is the worst application one can apply around any computerized equipment; and guys stop blowing your clothes off with an air hose you're going to end up in an ER - just my thoughts from years experience.
Loose screws - on a machine of that size, I'd appreciate loose screws on delivery, actually. Something this big and comparatively lightweight has quite some flex to it and will also have bent and twisted during delivery. So, instead of that force going straight onto the structual bits, it'd be better for the machine to be able to give a little. I'd then first set up a stable, flat and very level foundation and then place the thing on there and carefully, step by step measure for parallel with a micrometer and for squareness with a machinist square, then fasten screws and tap with a rubber mallet until i get the precision i'd like to have. Also, all grease traps need feeding, then.
Excellent. Money ready and needed to hear the cons. Suppose I'll wait now, and see how/if these issues are addressed. Thanks so much.
I would use a torque wrench and verify that every screw is tightened to specification. As for lubricant, I recommend using either a good sewing machine oil or mineral oil as these will lubricate the equipment without risk of residue build up.
David - I have this same machine coming and was wondering what would be the ideal dimensions for the workbench tabletop? The Carbide site says the footprint of the machine is 60 x 35 inches. What are your table's measurements? It's hard to tell, but it looks like the front of your machine overhangs just a bit, but it seems you have space behind the machine. I assume there is a reason you can't push the machine further back, but I just can't see it. Please let me know what you would recommend the tabletop be size wise.
Thanks David, I had this high on my list. No longer. Not that I'm not capable of doing all the fixes, but for the money I'd ecpect a great deal more quality. To many vidoes that are unspocered where theres parts issues and quality issues. Goof luck. I hope the machine serves you well.
Great review. I had a 3 XXL and now have a 4 Pro. The 3 XXL was a great machine. In retrospect I should have kept it, as I have had a few issues with the 4 Pro. I am looking into the 5 pro as I could use the extra cutting space, and I like the improvements (in theory) over the 4 Pro.
I have the exact same complaints, I moved my bit zero up to the gantry , just extend the 3 wires .added a z brake to hold spindle up on power down, added air and coolant,to mineOH LETS NOT FORGET THE LOOSE SCREWS! LOL GREAT VID BUD!
I OWN THE 3XXL AND THE PROXXL I WAS GOING TO UP GRADE TO THIS MACHINE SO I DON'T HAVE TO TILE MY BIGGER PROJECTS ANYMORE, THANK YOU FOR REVIEW. 👍👍
Great review. I just sold my SO3XXL and will be ordering a 5 Pro. On the pauses, it's definitely Carbide Motion. I installed the latest Carbide Motion on my SO3XXL and all those pauses are now there. My machine wouldn't work right on V6 of motion correctly, so downgraded to V5.
It's a shame that most of these desktop systems are put together as if they're home-made. That wiring is a mess and should have been done with cables to keep it clean. The 5 Pro is clearly their best system, but it just doesn't cross the finish line, IMO.
I use one of those light controllers on my HAAS TM1 and TL1 for coolant.
I am thinking of getting one, is it best to use lock tight on the screws?
For your dust collection it is possible to share the "trigger" wire in the VFD and run it to a Relay that matches the voltage of the trigger, if there isn't enough current coming from the board, you can add a transistor as a "pre-Relay" before the relay using another power source for the current to operate the larger relay. It is advised to use a diode in between the vfd and the relay to eliminate any feedback to the board or vfd. I know this may be out of a lot of people's ability to do, but I just thought I'd put it out there. You can find videos to do this, "using a NPN transistor as a relay" or replace with PNP depending on the polarity of the voltage being used.
Doesn’t look like your wiring harness is routed properly. Which is causing the wires to come out of the the back channel like that.
If you are not mixing “way” oil with coolant a la milling machine Mobil 1 5-30 should do fine . Locktite hardware as you go over it . I have a 3 and the wiring has always been a chore to keep routed
Is there laser option yet like onefinity?
good feedback
If next wave and shapeoko linked up they would have a solid all around machine. Like say Axiom
Damn brother. Thanks for making this. I have their older pro. It’s okay at best. I’m looking at another brand all together so many times I’ll be in the middle of a long cut file and the damn thing just stops. It’s still spinning but the machine freezes so I have to start all over again