It’s actually a big deal, especially on newer generations like Gen 5, direct injection. On Gen III it’s not the end of the world but it does make a huge difference.
@@ChopperDoc181o what value would you recommend for a sloppy stage 2 camshaft? Intake opens 20 degrees sooner or so. Add 0.2 for 18 degrees adjustment?
Excuse my English I have a question I hope you can help me you says the stock file on PCM p01 (6.5+5.55)*90-784= 300.5 degrees Where the number 784 came from?
Great content, thanks. If a car is cat-less, can the eoit normal table be all the same higher value straight across? A tuner on one of the forums was guessing the lower eoit during colder temps was also to help get the cats up to temp quicker. If the line could be flatlined at all temps, it'd be nice not to have the extra fuel smell while the car warms up.
I think that it sprays earlier to give the fuel more time to turn to a vapor. Liquid fuel does not burn, the vapors do. The colder the engine, the longer this takes, obviously. So on very cold engines it makes sense to give it more time to do this. I doubt it would hurt by delaying it some, but I don't usually mess with the colder side of the table, and I don't know exactly what flat lining it would do honestly lol. Only one way to find out I suppose. Personally, I would just back it off a little at a time, just the same as the hot side. Might take a few days to do that since it requires a cold engine, but that's what I would do.
Thank you for the video. I'm curious why in your example you made the injector fire later in the cycle? It seems like that would make the fuel smell worse because the fuel will have less time to cook on the back of the valve, so less atomization and more unburnt fuel per cycle. I'm I thinking about this backward?
Not when you have a lot of overlap. With valve events happening sooner and staying open later, fuel tends to be sprayed right out the exhaust when both are open, or while the piston is still moving upwards. Scavenging will still occur regardless, as some will be sucked back in, but firing the injectors later seems to be more effective with huge cams with lots of overlap.
Hey brother thanks for the video. It's nice to see the math laid out in front of my face. At what point do you think it's pointless to even touch it? Sitting at 25 degrees of overlap, I'm thinking I'm never going to notice a cleaner smell without a cam swap lol
Wow, yeah that’s a lot lol. I moved mine back and it helped. Doesn’t solve the problem by any means but “better” is how I’d describe it lol. I’m at 23 degrees so similar issue. Mine targets near TDC, but as stated, may or may not work for your setup. So many variables with this kind of thing. It still smells but just not so bad.
ChopperDoc181 , ok good to know, can’t wait to try this. I have some bucking , around 1500-1900rpms in gear , M6 car. Anyways love the gen 3 vids and hope to see some more of them
@Max Link yes it has helped , parking lot cruises much better. You’ll know you’re going n the right direction if it’s richer at idle after making a change. Only way to know Is make a change then go out for a drive. Gen3 fbody stock normal is 5.55 . Mine is currently set at 5.95. Make small changes n work your way up
Awesome info on something most people never even think about
It’s actually a big deal, especially on newer generations like Gen 5, direct injection. On Gen III it’s not the end of the world but it does make a huge difference.
@@ChopperDoc181o what value would you recommend for a sloppy stage 2 camshaft? Intake opens 20 degrees sooner or so. Add 0.2 for 18 degrees adjustment?
Made the largest improvement in my camned 5.3 over anything else I’ve tried. ‘Timing is everything “
Excuse my English I have a question I hope you can help me you says the stock file on PCM p01 (6.5+5.55)*90-784= 300.5 degrees Where the number 784 came from?
Great content, thanks. If a car is cat-less, can the eoit normal table be all the same higher value straight across? A tuner on one of the forums was guessing the lower eoit during colder temps was also to help get the cats up to temp quicker. If the line could be flatlined at all temps, it'd be nice not to have the extra fuel smell while the car warms up.
I think that it sprays earlier to give the fuel more time to turn to a vapor. Liquid fuel does not burn, the vapors do. The colder the engine, the longer this takes, obviously. So on very cold engines it makes sense to give it more time to do this. I doubt it would hurt by delaying it some, but I don't usually mess with the colder side of the table, and I don't know exactly what flat lining it would do honestly lol. Only one way to find out I suppose. Personally, I would just back it off a little at a time, just the same as the hot side. Might take a few days to do that since it requires a cold engine, but that's what I would do.
Thank you for the video. I'm curious why in your example you made the injector fire later in the cycle? It seems like that would make the fuel smell worse because the fuel will have less time to cook on the back of the valve, so less atomization and more unburnt fuel per cycle. I'm I thinking about this backward?
Not when you have a lot of overlap. With valve events happening sooner and staying open later, fuel tends to be sprayed right out the exhaust when both are open, or while the piston is still moving upwards. Scavenging will still occur regardless, as some will be sucked back in, but firing the injectors later seems to be more effective with huge cams with lots of overlap.
@@ChopperDoc181 , Thank you for the explanation. How do you know if you go too far? Will you notice drivability issues?
Hey brother thanks for the video. It's nice to see the math laid out in front of my face. At what point do you think it's pointless to even touch it? Sitting at 25 degrees of overlap, I'm thinking I'm never going to notice a cleaner smell without a cam swap lol
Wow, yeah that’s a lot lol. I moved mine back and it helped. Doesn’t solve the problem by any means but “better” is how I’d describe it lol. I’m at 23 degrees so similar issue. Mine targets near TDC, but as stated, may or may not work for your setup. So many variables with this kind of thing. It still smells but just not so bad.
Im messing with this now on my gen3 408. You mention don’t go too far with this quite a few times. What happens if you do , motor blows ?
No, motor will run badly. You’d have to go pretty damn far to have a problem with blowing it up lol.
ChopperDoc181 , ok good to know, can’t wait to try this. I have some bucking , around 1500-1900rpms in gear , M6 car. Anyways love the gen 3 vids and hope to see some more of them
@Max Link yes it has helped , parking lot cruises much better. You’ll know you’re going n the right direction if it’s richer at idle after making a change. Only way to know Is make a change then go out for a drive. Gen3 fbody stock normal is 5.55 . Mine is currently set at 5.95. Make small changes n work your way up
The tables in my E67 are way different. 13342 isn't there. Normal is 13337, and the numbers in the cells are 3 digits..
This is for Gen III PCM's with the 2 tables. Newer versions are indeed way different.
What about gen 4?
I’d have to do a completely separate video for Gen 4. This is obviously based on the Gen III.
@@ChopperDoc181 Did you do it?