Ezgo TXT TXTE - 48v golf cart FIX wont move no solenoid click charge port diagnosis
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 17 พ.ค. 2019
- This is 2013 ezgo txt golf cart that would not move, had no back up alarm, and no solenoid click. I explain my diagnosis and how to bypass a defective charge port interlock. Similar to a reed switch bypass.
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This was spot on for me. Problem solved. Thank you for the clear, well-done video! Worked just like your video on a 2016 TXT (not E) and the battery compartment was laid out exactly the same.
Paul, you are the man!! I had converted to a lithium battery pack system and discontinued using the charge port. You fixed my problem. Thank you for posting your video.
That was a really good lesson. My neighbor here in FL has invited me to fix an EZGO which won't move. Hopefully, it will be one of those switched in series to the solenoid. Cheers!
I’m lucky that I found this trouble shooting tip and it solved my problem, thank you. I read the manual and nowhere is there any mention of a requirement for 48 volts to the Curtis controller to connect ground circuit.
Hey there, I know this video is 3 years old but I wanted to say it just helped me immensely. You explained everything very well. THANK YOU!
Not only was this helpful... turns out it was exactly my problem.
Just hauling my golf cart to the shop is a pain... they are nice guys there, but glad to be up and running thanks to your clear video.
You're the man, same thing, jumped the third wire and bingo! Thought I was going to have to buy a controller, saved me $300.
Watch to the end! I swapped a solenoid, where I should have crimped some wire. Thanks for the video
Paul you just made my day.Saved us a few hundred dollars too.Thanks for your well thought out video.We now are riding again!!
Thank you Paul! Your video saved me so much time and money, and this solution fixed my problem. I really appreciate you taking the time to post this detailed video.
Thank you Paul for the advice, I. Have the same issue. I'm going to try this out right now.
Thank you... this was the issue on a client's cart. You saved us many hours of frustration.
Thanks for the input, that actually made my process of elimination quite easier and gave me a great template to use from now on! All thumbs up for you pal!
Spot on Brother! I followed the exact steps and am up and running. Perfect detail
My 48v EZGO cart just wouldn't go one day. I spent days checking batteries, replacing the solenoid, checked the run/tow switch thoroughly. I even borrowed a brake assembly from a local golf cart sales guy that I bought the cart from 2 years ago,and put that in. I realized this was a shotgun approach and I should start looking at wiring and other switches. Your video was so helpful. It turned out my charging cable port was also defective just like in the video and the workaround bypass wire will keep me running until I order a new charger port.
Yeah most people, even pro's get hooked on that shotgun parts cannon approach. Glad it helped some people. I spent some time on it buried in the service manual and wiring diagrams. Never would have thought it would get this many views, and so many ding dongs slinging criticisms about not cleaning the battery corrosion first. LOL, that corrosion can be measured as voltage drop so it's something I overlook since it is not the root cause of the customer concern. Good luck with the new charge port 👍😁
thx for the video Paul... my ezgo was exhibiting the same issue. I charged up the batteries, cleaned all the battery connections good and turned the key on with switch in run position. pressed pedal...nada. Traced the red wire lead coming out of the wire harness next to the solenoid and the wire had broken off from the clip connecting it to the controller. put a new end on, crimped it and bada-bing! thx.
What a great video!! I watched this and then fixed my ezgo 2014 golf cart. Thank you!
Nice bit of corrosion on the battery terminal/cables. 💯
good well earned knowledge to be used..ty for the time and effort sir
Thank you !! I was about to buy new batteries !! Worked like a charm. I will buy a new Charger Port today !! Cheers !!
Thanks this info helped me fix my cart. Jumped for now port on order
Thanks Paul for Video worked great. Fixed and bypassed charge port.
Nice video, very helpful, my exact problem and fix. Thanks for posting.
The little blue wire was the problem. Thanks a million man!
Thanks for the video. I bought a 48 volt Yamaha today and am troubleshooting it. I was thinking this could be the issue. I now know how to test it
Thank you for posting this video I was able to fix my issue in seconds.
You’re the man!!!! Thank You, this has been driving me nuts. Jb
Thank you! Great video! You explained everything perfectly!!
Thanks for making this video. Definitely helped me out. I had a different problem but never would have tried to solve it without this. You saved me at least $500!
You saved you $500, I just helped a little.
Helped me get the cart going after 2 weeks of trying.
Great video. I was converting to a lithium eco-battery which included a onboard charger. After completing the install it would not move. The new charger port did not have a connection fir the blue wire. As suggested I jumped a wire to the positive terminal. Bingo. Thanks a bunch I was completely lost.
Great video learned a lot. Thanks so much
This was extremely helpful
You know your stuff! Well done!
Nicely done video. Thank you!
You fixed my problem, thanks.
Many thanks this t
was the correct fix for my cart
Excellent video!!
Thanks for the tip bro it was helpfull
Glad it helped, it tied my time up for a day so if it helps someone else I am all about it.
Great Job just what happen to me, Great fix thanks
This exact video solved my problem
Hey Paul. you spoke of running 48Vdc (ORG w/RED Stripe) from the Controller to the solenoid. What pinout did you use for the 48Vdc please?
Thank you thank you 🕺 I just upgrade to a lithium and sure enough, had to do with old charge port
Good vid man, thank you
Thank you !!! Good video
Thanks great video
How about doing a little basic battery maintenance by cleaning all of the crud and corrosion off the battery terminals
Definitely a good maintenance, which I did after fixing. My focus was pinpointing the root cause of the cart not moving, so I purposely overlook a lot of things like the corrosion you point out. The voltage measurement at the solenoid of 48v indicated the corrosion was not the cause.
Also note, not my cart, it wasn't dropped off for basic maintenance but for a will not move. I'm not that guy that sells all the maintenance and easy to see issues first, then looks at the actual customer concern, I address the concern first, then once I diagnose and price that for them, I will "upsell" the maintenance.
@@paulkelley86 Hey man thanks for showing me how to fix this problem but its the same thing not taking charged and making noise and will not move
@@paulkelley86 Can you tell me if the fat right connect is on the charging port is the negative?
All what is the top connector on the charging port is for.
Thank you!
@@David25522 sorry don't remember. Only worked on that one not really what I do every day.
But I remember the 3rd connection was for the charger interlock, so it wouldn't move with the charger plugged in. That was the malfunctioning part on this one.
@@paulkelley86 that 48 volts is very dieciving amperage is what makes it go the first i do on mine is check each battery conn the one causing the problem will fell warm to hot but in your case that green mess is amajor problem ive had mine 8 yrs was used 90% tbl ive had was corroded conn. even a causual cleaning cuts down on resistance which inceases current you can feel diff when you step on the pedal
Great video.
Mr Paul , I want to know, without silver-plated v2f cable buggy can run or cannot?
Great video 👍
Thanks you man I think I found out the problem but mine does the same thing but also makes noises
You are so smart! We just replaced the receptacle, so now I am trying to figure out if the selenoid went bad. Your video was helpful. When you say test the parts of the selenoid with the volt meter, how do you do that? Where do you put the second lead?
There is a couple ways. To me the most simple is to leave the black lead on ground the whole time. Check the big red wire going to the solenoid from the battery, it should have the battery voltage (48ish v) then check the other big red wire coming off the solenoid going to the controller and eventually motor. It should have the same 48ish volts if the key is on and everything working.
If 0 volts, the solenoid isn't connecting the 2, which could mean it it defective or it is not getting the correct signal on the small wire.
This is from memory so I don't remember everything 100%. And I have not worked on one since. Good luck.
Right on the money,, thank u
Great video after testing the charging plug I was getting full 48volt so it seems good I cannot get the ground to test 0 it’s showing like 48 volts is my solenoid bad?
Good video
Hi Paul. Question:
When I plug my charger into the cart it always made a click and then started charging.
Now I get nothing. The cart isn’t recognizing the charger. I tried another charger and it
Happened again.
So it’s not the charger. I replaced the receptacle for the charger still nothing
I’m getting 48 on all post could that be the solenoid?
My solenoid isnt clicking. Gas pedal makes a big click. Bought a new solenoid. Still not clicking. Any different ideas?
Can this be an intermittent issue? My 48v stops running after I stop for more than 10 seconds after riding for a little bit. I wait 5 mins with key off and it will run again and continue this all day!!!! Driving me crazy
I have a 48 volt ezgo txt. Charger won't turn on. I tried on 2 other carts and it charged. Tried there chargers on my cart same thing won't turn on. I metered my outlet it's only reading 3.98 volts. Batteries are at 48.8 volts. The cart drives as it should buy I can't get it to charge. I can't find a wiring diagram but my thoughts are to run a wire from negative battery back to charge port to read correct voltage. Would you recommend that to see if the charger turns on
Kind of sounds like your batteries are charged enough to not kick the charger on.
You sure the charger won't initiate charging if you drive cart around for a bit?
'12 ez-go rxv 48v, no-run, computer isn't pulling the line going to the solenoid low. Switching the cart to tow, unlocks the brake for about a second then you hear it click and it re-locks it, I do get the backup buzzer. Going to try manually pulling the solenoid low here in a little while after I get it charged up, to see if it clicks. Any thoughts or ideas?
Did you ever find the issue, I’m going through the same thing now.
@@tylerfisher6483 nope, ended up just getting rid of that sumbitch.
I was switching out my solenoid to a Amazon solenoid and now it dose not run. It ran before I switched it. Any ideas? I put the old solenoid and it does not run.
I have this golf cart but red mine makes the click but won’t go..what needs to be done..my charger flashes red twice..I’ve charged the barriers individually
i have a ez-go golf cart that wont do anything, it first would work if you stomped the pedal but quit one side of the soleniod was melted replace it and put in new micro switch and the other part thar goes with it cant thank of the name of that part but i know what it does checked everything i can thank of following your vidio no luck do you thank you could help me the soleniod will not click nothing
At 2:27, You mentioned testing for 0V on the ground. Using a voltmeter, put the red to the red on the solenoid and the black to any ground to test for 48V. What I don’t understand is what you put the prongs on to test for 0 V on the ground. Obviously, The black prong goes to the ground on the solenoid but where do you put the red prong from the volt meter?
On a known good 48v. Like the positive terminal of the battery (the one that feeds the system 48v since there are multiple)
If the ground you are testing is good.... it will read full source voltage (48v ish depending on battery charge. Or whatever the system voltage is)
Ty!
There is a 30 amp fuse soldered inside the charge port. You can get a 30 amp fuse link and connect it between the little blue wire and the big red wire. Do not cut those two wires, just connect the fuse between them.
I think that is on the old style charge port, are you sure it was for this one? It still charges fine but it has an interlock circuit that was showing the charger still connected.
If my solenoid is clicking but not moving this couldn't be my issue or could it ?
i am getting intermitent light and backup alarm, but my 2006 club car will not move. the batteries are fully charged
I have a 2012 rxv I get no voltage to motor brake with key switch on with solenoid click . Run / tow does get voltage in tow . Any suggestions ? Thanks .
Is the voltage passing through the solenoid to the motor side? 48v in and 48v out?
@@paulkelley86 Thanks for getting back with me . I was too tired to have at it again tonight after my regular job and I'll check tomorrow evening but I did find a flaw in my testing or least ways my thinking in that I was testing the motor brake voltage with the key switch on and getting no voltage .....,.. of course no voltage, you have to press the throttle to get voltage to make the brake release . I'm going to check that tomorrow evening and if I have voltage then my motor brake is going bad , am I correct in my thinking this time . It's amazing how foggy ones brain gets with no sleep.
Thanks so much again I really want you to know how appreciative I am because I probably will need advice again .
Our golf cart headlights not working . We have same cart. Can you show us where fuse box is located on cart? Thank you
Sorry I was just helping a neighbor out fixing that cart so I don't have it.
I did work on another one with headlights inoperative and it had a headlight switch right in the center of the "dashboard". A few voltage tests shows the switch was faulty, voltage going into the switch but not out.
I would check under the seat to start. Most of the time there is a pair of smaller cables coming off the first 2 batteries alone, since the 2 batteries would make 12 volts. The fuse would likely be inline with those wires or at least help you track it down.
i have similar issue as you, except i do have reserve buzzer.. and when i push the cart manually to move it, it will beep-beep-beep. any suggestions? If not, I will walk through some of the things you've checked in the video.
This cart was a one time fix I did for a neighbor. I work on anything and everything but not enough golf carts go be able to recognize your symptoms and eliminate things. You could find a wiring diagram and start tracing and measuring available voltage at different points. Sorry, wish I could be more help.
@@paulkelley86 Thanks man!!! Appreciate it.
I just purchased a used 2006 ez go txt. The guy i bought it from told me it was a 48v and batteries needed to be replaced. So i did but further research found out it was a 36v but bought 8v batteries instead of 6v batteries. Can it still go if im using a 48v instead of 36v?
I can't say for sure but it doesn't sound like a good idea if all the electronics are made for 36. Doesn't seem worth the risk to me. You might just let the magic smoke out of your electronic parts.
@@paulkelley86 he said it ran with the 8v batteties but whay do i know lets find out lol 🤙🏽 from hawaii
@@mrmula555 sounds like you already know the only sure way to find out. Good luck 👍
My 2015 ez go electric golf cart was moving along fine then suddenly gave a little lurch and died. I had to push it back to the house. We bought a new charger and charged it up. The lights come on but no back up signal, no clicking in gas pedal or starter when key turned. Nothing. What did you suggest? Solenoid?
Hi Cindy, the solenoid functions to either block "power" from leaving the batteries and going to the motor, or allow it.
Based on the batteries being charged you would want to test (or have tested) whether or not the voltage (power not really proper term but often interchanged) is passing through the solenoid. With key on, in forward or reverse, and accelerator pedal applied, voltage should pass through the solenoid.
In my case is was not.
It doesnt mean the solenoid is defective. It may be not passing power because it is not being told to. It is controlled by a controller which looks at inputs to determine if it should close the solenoid contacts.
In my case, an input was defective. The charge port.
Not really a short answer, but the solenoid is the place to start with diagnosis and troubleshooting. It may be defective, but until tested you dont know that and would potentially be wasting money replacing it. What yours needs in reality is diagnosis/troubleshooting.
I am an automotive person, it's my job, I dont recommend guesses, in fact in my business, I could be held liable for guessing, I "prove" parts are defective before selling them to customers. It takes time, training, and expertise....
But I feel for the DIY folks and try to share my finds and experiences for those who benefit. In the case of my video, it may benefit you if you have the identical issue, or someone troubleshooting a similar one.
Hope you get it handled 🙏
@@paulkelley86 thank you for your reply. We were wondering if it could be that. We will watch your video again and give it a try on the testing. If all else fails, we will give in and take it in for proper servicing. Thank you again and Happy Easter.
@@cindylabare960 thank you! You too!
Paul Kelley I always get confused on what to set my battery tester on when testing batteries. Which setting on the digital meter?
@@nikkicummings5944 Ultimately I have tested voltage in this video so my short answer is just DC volts.
Depending on the meter though, it may require manually setting the range. Mine is an auto ranging type so I just go DC volts but perhaps you will have to select something in the range of 42 volts manually.
Whatever your battery voltage is, determines what you are looking for. Roughly 42v.
Great video! I have the same cart, 48v TXTE EZGO. I have 48v from the battery pack (new batteries) measured with a volt meter, but the dash indicator reads all the way low. The cart will move but very slowly. It seems the power is not getting where it needs to go. Solenoid or controller? Please help. thank you
It sounds like you are losing voltage somewhere between the source (battery) and the destination/load (motor). The issue is you don't know where the loss is occurring. Unfortunately we can't see voltage drop/resistance so you need to measure using a voltmeter. It's not a quick fix problem. It needs to be properly diagnosed. Or bust out the parts cannon and just start changing parts.
@@paulkelley86 ok. Thank you and appreciate the help!
@@paulkelley86 would you start with replacing the solenoid? Thank you
@@jasonfuller9828 I would start by buying a volt meter and taking measurements. If you want someone to guess for you, don't ask me. I'm a bad guessed which is probably why i put the effort into learning to troubleshoot.
Is my assumption correct that I can replace my Yamaha 48v solenoid with an EZGO 48v solenoid. Both do exactly the same, don't they?
Most likely, Amazon has a ton of universal solenoids, make sure it has the same connections.
My 48 volt club car will run in forward and backwards with the key off. Any ideas on why this started happening?
Sounds like the solenoid is stuck closed. Either welded contacts inside the solenoid or it was incorrectly wired to never cut power/ground to the solenoid when the key is turned off.
Will require voltage measurements to verify and pinpoint diagnosis.
@@paulkelley86 Thank you
Why does green light stay on when stays on after unplugged charger
i have this but it would make a clicking noise and the batteries were charged can anyone help?
My golf cart is charged fully, but when I turn it on it says it’s out of battery
Inside the charging port is some 30A fuse that likes to blow but you cant see since it is covered with black rubber....find the "pimple" that looks like a mini car fuse covered with rubber and simply cut the rubber around with a razor, it is actually right beside the blue wire....solder a new fuse and you got repaired your charger port that gives you a signal to the solenoid....to be sure it is blown fuse, do the trick of bypassing like shown on this video from positive 48V to the blue-red conector wire....well, new connector port price is about 40-50$, not pricey, but still a fuse cost is like 50 cent and 15-20 minutes of time to repair.....i am Melex, Cushman, Ezgo, ClubCar, ItalCar, IcoCar technician, not expert, but know some tricks during years of repairing mechanic and electronics of those little e-cars ;)
Paul
2008 six seat ezgo new battery’s new solaniod
48 volt Yamaha golf cart with the key off when hooking up battery terminals it has Sparks is that normal
Some sparks just as you make the connection just means there is current flow. This could be normal.
It should stop as soon as the connection is solid.
There still may be some capacitors charging up or things powering up even though key off.
But if it is more violent sparks, or continues after the first instant, or if the cables get hot, it sounds like a short. If a positive is touching ground it will do the same thing and at best blow the fuse/fusible link or at worst start a fire.
@@paulkelley86 thanks
The very first step in diagnosing this is check the batteries and clean the battery terminals.
no kidding first things first
Got clicking at solenoid not moving any help would be deeply appreciated
I would verify voltage goes in to solenoid and also actually comes out. They can click but have a bad contact inside. And you should have close to 48 volts (fully charged source voltage of the batteries), if lower back track to see where the drop is. Or if it is always lower consider batteries or connections (source)
All that buildup on the battery terminals is offensive to look at 😂
Reed valve replacement ing charger inlet.
Holy corrosion.. Time for alittle cleaning id say..
Clean the cables and batteries post
As a maintenance sure, but that was not the cause of this problem.
Also why you at it clean the corrosion
Sure, but first make sure I can fix the machine rather than perform maintnance on something that may not be fixable right? Being a good steward of the customers money.
I understand but with the corrosion it takes away from the true voltage
So I ran that charging port wire directly to the my positive terminal and it did indeed open the solenoid and the cart took off for maybe 30 seconds and then the solenoid shuts off again and won’t click. I charged my batteries to full 50.8 volts and replaced the solenoid and same results. Clicks once and moves a foot then stops. Help!!
I'm watching him finger that ground on the solenoid and the tiny blue wire is moving...so THAT isn't tightened down properly.....and yeah... the 800 pound gorilla in the room is those battery terminals. REALLY?!!
Good job, now spend some time on those battery terminals.
Ok so the obc on my golf cart started smoking badly and now my golf cart won’t move
I am assuming by OBC you mean on board charger. This model does not have an on board charger, just a port connect the charger. Not sure this video will help. Hope you got it resolved
Basically this video too complicated for me to understand. But thank you, anyway.
I hear a click and only goes reverse ?
Sounds like you may need to focus your testing on the forward/reverse select switch. It takes 48v and sends it on the forward or reverse circuit back to the controller. Test with a meter.
@@paulkelley86 thanks i replaced the entire forward reverse switch with and old one from a parts goft cart and worked great.
I would like to see this video but it won't play past about halfway. Tried it on a different phone, same result
Now clean those terminals
The cart's not moving lads
So my silonoid clicks but does not go.
Help?
I would check battery voltage, if ok, I would check for power on the motor side of the solenoid
@@paulkelley86 hi there my solenoid sometimes clicks. on-site electrician said it was only producing 35v from the foot switch under floor (as I thought that was the problem) would it still work at all with 35 v or does need 48v?
@@tw1g123 there are 36v and 48v carts. Maybe yours is a 36v (6 batteries) that would be good. If it is a 48v (8 batteries) that is a problem but I cant say for sure if it is the only problem. You should see what the battery voltage is to determine if the batteries are low, or if there is a voltage drop. As some pointed out, corrosion on the terminals could cause voltage drop, if your battery post positive to negative for example read 48b but positive to negative cable read 35 volts that would indicate you are dropping 11 volts at the cable to battery connection and should be cleaned.
Also I am unsure if you mean 35v to the large battery cable from the battery to the solenoid, or the smaller wire that controls the solenoid. Should have source voltage (48v assuming 8 fully charged batteries) at both the large and small control terminal.
@@paulkelley86 hi paul thanks for your reply. I tried to use again today and it worked for 2 minutes until I stopped and then would not move again. I checked batteries with volt meter and was getting 49.2 v( is a 48v buggy) there was also no clicking from the solenoid. I left it for about another hour to do something else and came back to buggy and it has been working the rest of the day fine.... do you think the solenoid could be at fault? If it stops working again could I test if solenoid by bridging the terminals on the solenoid to bypass it? Thanks again.( the buggy is too tempremental)
@@tw1g123 you could jumper the solenoid big terminal to big terminal just be careful because that's high amperage.
Ultimately the test is to check if the solenoid gets what it needs to work. If it has voltage at the right points and doesnt work, it is defective. But if you find it is not getting voltage, you track down where the voltage loss is occurring.
I found this one challenging because the small terminal on the solenoid is controlled by a circuit board / module. My module wasn't putting out voltage. The question was, is the module bad, or is it getting a bad input. In my case it was a bad input from the charging port, which indicated the cable was still connected. Apparently a common issue on these.
This is the only one I have ever worked on so I dont know the common failure points, I am an auto guy so I understand the concepts, not so different than a modern car.
Good luck!