Nice video and timely for us. Last month, we were nearly stranded at a state park in West Virginia when our house batteries failed. We replaced the batteries and were able to bring the awnings and slides in for travel. However, the LCI leveling jacks were down and wouldn't retract. I spent nearly 2 hours on the phone with LCI techs but finally able to unhook the harness to the motor and use a bypass code to retract the jacks and get home. LCI believes I have a damaged control module that cost $400 to replace from LCI. I had a local tech come out to check the old module. While attempting to reset the jacks, the motor started to smoke and was hot. I feared looking at a very costly motor repair until I stumbled across this video. I have subsequently ordered the after market motor for $250. My tech should be here this week to replace the control module. I likely will have him replace the motor as well or I may even go ahead and do it myself. Thanks again for the info and you now have followers in West Virginia.
You are very welcome. I had an unfortunate incident with LCI yet again. I replaced my Kwikee stairs made by LCI because the retraction gear had stripped. I replaced the entire set at a crazy cost of $1200.00 because I wanted to avoid fixing the old stairs only to find additional problems. Long story short, my new stairs were defective. LCI did make it right eventually but after many difficult sessions on the phone. The wiring harness connectors on the new stairs were defective. They sure get premium money for not so premium products.
I had to chime in to this whole thing because your overall exquisite work on this subject and for saving me at least $500. Your producer, director, play by play and camera work leaves an Oscar behind. I feel that I now need to help other with the restoration and repair so I would like to add some additional bits: The hex screw heads for the motor 2 screws are 3/16. Found that I had to get a Hex set skinny extension to reach the screws as the the motor was slightly rotated from your case, making it awkward to reach. For those with no wiring damage to the motor, I removed the smallest of the C clamp at the opposite end off the brushes to free the armature and cleaned the motor with some old electrical motor solution from my days in electronics. From the looks of it, I believe that Brake Kleen or equivalent would do the job as well. Removed the carbon deposits from the brushes contact points at the armature with 0000 steel wool. Those contacts shine. And last, due to the accumulation of carbon deposits everywhere inside the motor, at reassembly time, I used strictly nothing but Teflon Lubricant to keep dirt deposits away from the bearings. I used tri flow lubricant which it was used at one time for bicycle gears and chain to keep dirt away. That motor purrrrs!! Last, my problems was related to split carbon brushes for some reason. Hope this helps those daredevils out there like you who would go to extremes to save money. Thank You for your contribution.
Very good advice given. Thank you for the compliments as well. There are plenty of pitfalls in the RV world designed to cost owners money. I'm glad we can all work together to watch eachothers' backs!
Great job, I’m there right now with the sister coach to the Vista, the Itasca Sunstar! Was looking for video help and yours was perfect! Now I’ve got to do the work. Thanks again.
Great video. Just had the entire Lippert pump and motor replaced on my 2023 Tiffin Phaeton which is only about five months old. The motor just overheated when I was trying to level in a difficult grade. Thankfully replaced under warranty, free! It would be nice for you to make a video describing all the error touchpad messages and how to fix them . I liked and subscribed to your videos.
We're having a celebration on March 19th at the Shamrock motel. You should come!! www.Shamrock66.com - A new video is coming out in first quarter next year regarding my involvement with the Shamrock.
I did it! Yesterday, thanks to your video, I changed the motor on my Lippert hydraulic system. There were a couple of things different from the video: orientation of the whole system/motor and the two bolts attaching the motor to the hydraulic block were Allen heads (Allen wrench). otherwise your video was textbook. We had a double whammy when the motor died because 2 of our 3 slide outs are also hydraulic. So we had jacks down and slides open. Not good. The motor fixed all and the folks in Chicago were great to work with!
I'm glad to hear it. I knew this was going to be a highly expensive, highly frustrating situation for the average RV owner. Very happy to hear the video and the Chicago company manufacturing the replacement motor are helping.
Love your camera work. You’re always conscious of the observer. I’ve watched several fixit videos that were an extreme waste of time when I couldn’t see what they were doing. Our family used to have a Winnebago. A smaller one. If it had hydraulics underneath, I don’t think my Pop new it because it was never activated. I’d drive it to work now & then so I could catch a few winks on my lunch break. Worked graveyard for years. Rich, have a great holiday season. See you at The Shamrock in March 2022.
Thanks Penny. It took me longer than I expected to edit. I often wish I could take this to work and sleep but that wouldn't set a good example for others.
Really appreciate your camera-work, not trying to film with one hand while working with the other! Love the fact that you powered through an oversight here or there without getting flustered and simply backed up and did what you had to do. I have the exact same motor on my barely used 2022 Tiffin Allegro 32' bus. Mobile RV Tech diagnosed it as being kaput, wanted $2200 to replace, with the part being $1700. Lippert wants $1260 on their website, $1060 on Amazon, and other sites list it at even more. Novoparts on Amazon has a replacement motor for $745 which includes the coupler. I just found the WMS website today, haven't called yet, but appears from comments and your video that they will sell it for roughly $400. And I might even take the old unit to an electrical shop to see about a rebuild (or use as a spare if it's a cheap enough fix). My whole system is turned 90 degrees from your setup, and getting tools on the nuts is a little challenging due to the lack of space. Question: do you need to replace the coupler after only a couple dozen uses or so? And do you not have any need to mess with the hydraulic fluid itself? Once I order the part, I'll tackle this replacement in my spare time. Learning to do so much stuff with today's internet technology, lol. Thanks again.
Just an update. I called WMS and they knew the motor I needed before I could even tell them the part number, hah. It is currently $395 plus shipping. I have removed the old motor - it was indeed a 3/16th hex head for the bolts holding it to the hydraulic pump box. Haven't taken it apart yet, but may someday. I plan to use the old coupling that bridges the motor to the hydraulic pump (you call it a keyway), as I don't see any wear or tear on that component. I am still wondering why any grease is needed on or around this coupling. In my mind this would be like putting grease on a slotted screwdriver head to turn a screw. I don't want any slippage between the male and female ends of this bridging component. I assume that the insides of the motor and hydraulic pump are properly lubed. Is it a heat dissipation issue?
@@HookedOnRoute66 I did. It's all back together now and everything working beautifully again. Lippert confirmed that the coupler I had (not a sealed version with the o-rings, but a straight shaft version like what I saw in your very helpful video) needed no grease. Thanks again for posting useful content.
Great video and thanks for helping out. Because of this video we at Western Motors have made a couple of upgrades. we now are putting in longer bolts for the battery cables and now including flat and lock-washers for the motor mounting bolts.
@@HookedOnRoute66 this video is a God Send! What's the best way to order this motor? I would like you to get credit for it and recognition. Hard for me to find with that number you gave? Again thank you so much. You now have been followed by my motorhome family of 7 coaches
thank you so much. great video work, thanks for not editing out the parts where you forgot to put on the third wire and when you had to use lock washers, that made it so much easier for me to replace mine. liked and subbed
Man, this is by far the BEST instructional video I have ever watched! We were working our pump/motor to death today trying to get the RV level at a site. Tried auto level, no joy. Tried to manual level, no joy. Did that several times and smoked the motor, just like yours. My question is, the US company you purchased the new motor from, can they match up a compatible motor based on the old model?
My lippert LCI I noticed When I start the coach and release the emergency brake it turns on?? do you know if that’s normal??? it happens once in a while.I don’t know if that’s normal but what I do turn off power button.
Great video ty,,,,what is the procedure to put the levelers down? I understand the retract, do you use the drip clockwise or counter and same question for the valves.
Great video…this is what I’m looking for. I fried my motor more than a year a ago and I have been browsing online trying to find a cheaper one. I have exactly the same motor you have…Is the new motor still works like a charm? Made in USA 🇺🇸 motor and for the price I have to buy it now. I just hope they have it in stock. Thanks for the video Rich good job. Last question did you disconnect the house batteries?
I have a frankenstein switch on my house and chassis batteries that allows me to disconnect them quickly. Yes, I had them disconnected. You should be able to get that motor readily. BTW, since I made the video, they upgraded the motors to fit the fasteners better. I hope it works out for you. My motor is still going just as strong as it did the day I replaced it.
Hi Rich, great video. I also have a Winnebago (2014 Vista)...my pump still works, but it does leak. Do you know if you can get a rebuild kit to replace the seals between the motor and the reservoir? Also I can't find the Lippert part number only the WNBGO p/n 182110-02/03-000. TIA any help is always greatly appreciated.
I assume you're speaking in reference to the hydraulic pump and not the motor. I don't have any knowledge on that part of the unit. I'm guessing you want to call the winnebago customer support team. They're extremely helpful and it doesn't matter if you have an older unit or not.
Why would Winnebago use an inferior, China motor when there is a better option for less money available? Do you know if the lower priced rigs use a manual leveling system? Seems like a better option, since this is something you don't really use that much.
Well, Winnebago is a decent manufacturer. They rely on the aftermarket just like lots of other manufacturers do. This LCI unit is found on tons of RV brands. The real shame should be on LCI for building a part that is obviously designed to fail, then extorting an obscene amount of money out of the unsuspecting owner. This is a very simple motor. Even the Made in USA unit is high priced for what it is. A resourceful person could probably build their own replacement motor for pennies on the dollar. LCI should change their practice here, because an owner that isn't too internet savvy is going to have to call a tow truck and face a crazy expensive bill to diagnose and replace said motor. It's a 20 minute job. This motor should last the life of the vehicle; considering these vehicles are costing 75k to 400k in this segment of the market.
Nice video and timely for us. Last month, we were nearly stranded at a state park in West Virginia when our house batteries failed. We replaced the batteries and were able to bring the awnings and slides in for travel. However, the LCI leveling jacks were down and wouldn't retract. I spent nearly 2 hours on the phone with LCI techs but finally able to unhook the harness to the motor and use a bypass code to retract the jacks and get home. LCI believes I have a damaged control module that cost $400 to replace from LCI.
I had a local tech come out to check the old module. While attempting to reset the jacks, the motor started to smoke and was hot.
I feared looking at a very costly motor repair until I stumbled across this video. I have subsequently ordered the after market motor for $250. My tech should be here this week to replace the control module. I likely will have him replace the motor as well or I may even go ahead and do it myself. Thanks again for the info and you now have followers in West Virginia.
You are very welcome. I had an unfortunate incident with LCI yet again. I replaced my Kwikee stairs made by LCI because the retraction gear had stripped. I replaced the entire set at a crazy cost of $1200.00 because I wanted to avoid fixing the old stairs only to find additional problems. Long story short, my new stairs were defective. LCI did make it right eventually but after many difficult sessions on the phone. The wiring harness connectors on the new stairs were defective. They sure get premium money for not so premium products.
I had to chime in to this whole thing because your overall exquisite work on this subject and for saving me at least $500. Your producer, director, play by play and camera work leaves an Oscar behind.
I feel that I now need to help other with the restoration and repair so I would like to add some additional bits:
The hex screw heads for the motor 2 screws are 3/16. Found that I had to get a Hex set skinny extension to reach the screws as the the motor was slightly rotated from your case, making it awkward to reach.
For those with no wiring damage to the motor, I removed the smallest of the C clamp at the opposite end off the brushes to free the armature and cleaned the motor with some old electrical motor solution from my days in electronics. From the looks of it, I believe that Brake Kleen or equivalent would do the job as well.
Removed the carbon deposits from the brushes contact points at the armature with 0000 steel wool. Those contacts shine.
And last, due to the accumulation of carbon deposits everywhere inside the motor, at reassembly time, I used strictly nothing but Teflon Lubricant to keep dirt deposits away from the bearings. I used tri flow lubricant which it was used at one time for bicycle gears and chain to keep dirt away. That motor purrrrs!! Last, my problems was related to split carbon brushes for some reason. Hope this helps those daredevils out there like you who would go to extremes to save money. Thank You for your contribution.
Very good advice given. Thank you for the compliments as well. There are plenty of pitfalls in the RV world designed to cost owners money. I'm glad we can all work together to watch eachothers' backs!
Great job, I’m there right now with the sister coach to the Vista, the Itasca Sunstar! Was looking for video help and yours was perfect! Now I’ve got to do the work.
Thanks again.
Great video. Just had the entire Lippert pump and motor replaced on my 2023 Tiffin Phaeton which is only about five months old. The motor just overheated when I was trying to level in a difficult grade. Thankfully replaced under warranty, free! It would be nice for you to make a video describing all the error touchpad messages and how to fix them . I liked and subscribed to your videos.
Happy new year for Rich and family, hope you had a great Christmas, been a while, amigo. Hope to see more videos in 2022
We're having a celebration on March 19th at the Shamrock motel. You should come!! www.Shamrock66.com - A new video is coming out in first quarter next year regarding my involvement with the Shamrock.
Thanks for the work, very helpful.
I hope it helps you.
While I don't have an RV, I do carry a small basic tool box. Totally agree on the junk offered for replacement parts!
Happy New Year and safe travels.
I did it! Yesterday, thanks to your video, I changed the motor on my Lippert hydraulic system. There were a couple of things different from the video: orientation of the whole system/motor and the two bolts attaching the motor to the hydraulic block were Allen heads (Allen wrench). otherwise your video was textbook.
We had a double whammy when the motor died because 2 of our 3 slide outs are also hydraulic. So we had jacks down and slides open. Not good. The motor fixed all and the folks in Chicago were great to work with!
I'm glad to hear it. I knew this was going to be a highly expensive, highly frustrating situation for the average RV owner. Very happy to hear the video and the Chicago company manufacturing the replacement motor are helping.
Love your camera work. You’re always conscious of the observer. I’ve watched several fixit videos that were an extreme waste of time when I couldn’t see what they were doing.
Our family used to have a Winnebago. A smaller one. If it had hydraulics underneath, I don’t think my Pop new it because it was never activated. I’d drive it to work now & then so I could catch a few winks on my lunch break. Worked graveyard for years.
Rich, have a great holiday season.
See you at The Shamrock in March 2022.
Thanks Penny. It took me longer than I expected to edit. I often wish I could take this to work and sleep but that wouldn't set a good example for others.
Really appreciate your camera-work, not trying to film with one hand while working with the other! Love the fact that you powered through an oversight here or there without getting flustered and simply backed up and did what you had to do. I have the exact same motor on my barely used 2022 Tiffin Allegro 32' bus. Mobile RV Tech diagnosed it as being kaput, wanted $2200 to replace, with the part being $1700. Lippert wants $1260 on their website, $1060 on Amazon, and other sites list it at even more. Novoparts on Amazon has a replacement motor for $745 which includes the coupler. I just found the WMS website today, haven't called yet, but appears from comments and your video that they will sell it for roughly $400. And I might even take the old unit to an electrical shop to see about a rebuild (or use as a spare if it's a cheap enough fix). My whole system is turned 90 degrees from your setup, and getting tools on the nuts is a little challenging due to the lack of space. Question: do you need to replace the coupler after only a couple dozen uses or so? And do you not have any need to mess with the hydraulic fluid itself? Once I order the part, I'll tackle this replacement in my spare time. Learning to do so much stuff with today's internet technology, lol. Thanks again.
Just an update. I called WMS and they knew the motor I needed before I could even tell them the part number, hah. It is currently $395 plus shipping. I have removed the old motor - it was indeed a 3/16th hex head for the bolts holding it to the hydraulic pump box. Haven't taken it apart yet, but may someday. I plan to use the old coupling that bridges the motor to the hydraulic pump (you call it a keyway), as I don't see any wear or tear on that component. I am still wondering why any grease is needed on or around this coupling. In my mind this would be like putting grease on a slotted screwdriver head to turn a screw. I don't want any slippage between the male and female ends of this bridging component. I assume that the insides of the motor and hydraulic pump are properly lubed. Is it a heat dissipation issue?
I reused the coupler. There's no reason to have to bother with the hydraulic reservoir. The motor is all by itself. Hope you save a ton of money.
@@HookedOnRoute66 I did. It's all back together now and everything working beautifully again. Lippert confirmed that the coupler I had (not a sealed version with the o-rings, but a straight shaft version like what I saw in your very helpful video) needed no grease. Thanks again for posting useful content.
@MrProptaxEngineer awesome! Glad it worked for you!
Great video and thanks for helping out.
Because of this video we at Western Motors have made a couple of upgrades. we now are putting in longer bolts for the battery cables and now including flat and lock-washers for the motor mounting bolts.
You wanna send me an upgrade? ;)
@@HookedOnRoute66 this video is a God Send! What's the best way to order this motor? I would like you to get credit for it and recognition. Hard for me to find with that number you gave? Again thank you so much. You now have been followed by my motorhome family of 7 coaches
I just emailed you folks for this motor AND want Romin Rich to hopefully get credit! Thanks Steven
thank you so much. great video work, thanks for not editing out the parts where you forgot to put on the third wire and when you had to use lock washers, that made it so much easier for me to replace mine. liked and subbed
Glad I could help save you money. Thank you
Very helpful and you showed every step needed. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Would love to hear any updates on the replacement motor. Like "2 years and still going strong!" OR... "looks like we need a new one after 3 years" etc
Yeah. Still working great. It's stronger than the original. No issues at all.
Man, this is by far the BEST instructional video I have ever watched! We were working our pump/motor to death today trying to get the RV level at a site. Tried auto level, no joy. Tried to manual level, no joy. Did that several times and smoked the motor, just like yours. My question is, the US company you purchased the new motor from, can they match up a compatible motor based on the old model?
I believe so. They are in Chicago and answer the phone when you call. They were very helpful.
We can match most DC motors with part numbers or pictures. Give us a call.
Steve at western motors
Very good video It helps a lot learning thank you
Glad it was helpful!
My lippert LCI I noticed When I start the coach and release the emergency brake it turns on?? do you know if that’s normal??? it happens once in a while.I don’t know if that’s normal but what I do turn off power button.
Hi Rich, love this video and will be installing my replacement motor this weekend. What kind of grease did you use here?
Thank you!
I think I used a dielectric grease
Great Video See you in March
Good job Rich
Great video ty,,,,what is the procedure to put the levelers down? I understand the retract, do you use the drip clockwise or counter and same question for the valves.
I believe you run the drill the same direction for whatever it is you intend to do. Best to refer to your manual
Great info - Thanks
I heard you can hook up a jump starter to the motor to turn it instead of manually spinning it.
I'm sure that's possible
Great video…this is what I’m looking for. I fried my motor more than a year a ago and I have been browsing online trying to find a cheaper one. I have exactly the same motor you have…Is the new motor still works like a charm? Made in USA 🇺🇸 motor and for the price I have to buy it now. I just hope they have it in stock. Thanks for the video Rich good job. Last question did you disconnect the house batteries?
I have a frankenstein switch on my house and chassis batteries that allows me to disconnect them quickly. Yes, I had them disconnected. You should be able to get that motor readily. BTW, since I made the video, they upgraded the motors to fit the fasteners better. I hope it works out for you. My motor is still going just as strong as it did the day I replaced it.
Do you know what size allen bit to remove motor?
I'm sorry. I do not. It's been a while. I hope the rest of the video is helpful.
Another viewer claims 3/16
Hi Rich, great video. I also have a Winnebago (2014 Vista)...my pump still works, but it does leak. Do you know if you can get a rebuild kit to replace the seals between the motor and the reservoir? Also I can't find the Lippert part number only the WNBGO p/n 182110-02/03-000. TIA any help is always greatly appreciated.
I assume you're speaking in reference to the hydraulic pump and not the motor. I don't have any knowledge on that part of the unit. I'm guessing you want to call the winnebago customer support team. They're extremely helpful and it doesn't matter if you have an older unit or not.
@@HookedOnRoute66 - Yes, correct. Thx
Why would Winnebago use an inferior, China motor when there is a better option for less money available? Do you know if the lower priced rigs use a manual leveling system? Seems like a better option, since this is something you don't really use that much.
Well, Winnebago is a decent manufacturer. They rely on the aftermarket just like lots of other manufacturers do. This LCI unit is found on tons of RV brands. The real shame should be on LCI for building a part that is obviously designed to fail, then extorting an obscene amount of money out of the unsuspecting owner. This is a very simple motor. Even the Made in USA unit is high priced for what it is. A resourceful person could probably build their own replacement motor for pennies on the dollar. LCI should change their practice here, because an owner that isn't too internet savvy is going to have to call a tow truck and face a crazy expensive bill to diagnose and replace said motor. It's a 20 minute job. This motor should last the life of the vehicle; considering these vehicles are costing 75k to 400k in this segment of the market.
Hello, how is your WMS motor holding up?
It's absolutely perfect. Never struggles. Also, this could be unrelated, but it doesn't bleed off nearly as much now either.
I went to the WMS site to look for the replaement motor W-414850. Found it but no prices listed! looks like I will need to call.........
That's unfortunate, but at least they answer their phones! Were you successful in getting through?
@@HookedOnRoute66 I sent an email. Cost is $400. Call to order