Brian, I have much information about this issue. I have the exact RV, with the exact HWH lift system , and had the exact same issues. I also experienced slow retracting jacks and have basically rebuilt the whole system. The tapered end springs are an upgraded spring and will help for a short time. But I’m sorry to inform you it is just a bandaid and the problem will return, which can cause other problems, and give you a bad day. The real problem lies with the lift cylinder itself. As far as I can tell the rod seal dries out and the increased friction slows down the retracting rod and will eventually stop it all together. When you hit retract, the system opens a dump to tank solenoid (one for each jack) that solenoid will latch on until the jack fully retracts and hits a proxy switch (breaking the latch). The bad part is HWH’s solenoids have a 20 minute duty time. If it takes more than 20 minutes for the jack to fully retract the solenoid will begin to overheat and can possibly burn out. They’re about $150 each and I’ve replaced most of mine. Here is the real sucky part - the lift jacks are not serviceable and must be repaired by HWH. The last ones I sent in were about $250 for a rebuild and $450 for a replacement. That was about 4 years ago so I do not know what they charge today. The good part is the turn around time is just a few days. I did take one of my jacks to work and figured out how to disassemble it (I’m a maintenance repairman in a plastics molding facility and work with hydraulic presses on a daily basis). The bad part is I cannot find a seal rebuild kit for it. I had three of our vendors check and they couldn’t cross any of the parts. So I ended up putting it back together and shipping it in to HWH for rebuilding. If you are interested I took a bunch of pictures of the whole process that I can share with you. I also have the complete schematics of the lifting circuit and room slide out circuits. Also just so you know there is a much easier way to change out the springs which takes about 10 minutes per jack. Leave the jack in the fully retracted position. With the worn out springs you will notice you can push down on the pad and separate if from the end of the cylinder. Firmly grab the pad and push down while rotating it (away from your body) off the end of the cylinder. Make sure you clear the bolt head on the rod end as you rotate it off. Also keep a firm hold of the pad until the springs relax. It’s so easy you won’t need any tools to remove the pad. When you are finished the pad will be hanging from the two springs beside the cylinder. Replace the springs. Starting with the pad hanging from the springs, rotate the pad back into place by using a pry bar and popping it over the bolt head as you rotate it back on. It’s a leverage game which is a little difficult with new springs but very possible to do without shims. Just be careful not to get any body parts between the pad and rod. I’ve done this numerous times without one issue. I can make a video if you want. Enjoy your rig and if you want any of that stuff let me know. I’ll be glad to share.
Great info. Thanks! I'll certainly keep an eye on it. The rear jacks were replaced at some point when the previous owner forgot and drove away. They put the old springs back on the new ones though. So hopefully I can keep those seals alive for a while. I have been considering keeping a couple spare solenoids on hand though...especially since we'll be heading to Alaska soon. Thanks again.
I used old fashion wooden clothes pins for the wedge shaped spacers. Just take the clothes pins apart and they work just as well and easy to do. Also, my right rear jack was always slow and the last one to come up. They would not replace it under warranty because it met the 10 or 15 min HWH spec ..... (which is nonsense). Eventually the jack would just stop half way up & I'd pry it up the rest of the way. So I added two helper springs from Lowes 1" x 12", about $6 ea. That was 15 yrs ago and that jack comes up same time as the other 3 jacks.
Take a spray bottle and put two drops of Dawn dish soap into the bottle. Fill with water and shake. The spray bottle needs to have a adjustable nozzle for a stream. Also this is not the case if two drops are good, more is better. Now go out and spray the cylinders of your hydraulic leveling system. Be sure to spray the whole cylinder. When I spray from the passenger side I also spray over to the driver's side. Then repeat from the driver's side. This helps loosen any dirt or debris blown by the wind. Also helps lubricate and protect the outer seal of the hydraulic cylinder. This seal is why only two drops of Dawn. To much soap can dry the seal out. Your levelers will start to retract faster. A tech at the HWH manufacturing plant. Advise me about this hack as a way to make the seals last much longer. Stay safe and enjoy the great outdoors.
Thanks for the tip. Yeah. After some time in the windy desert, a light layer of dirt and dust will develop. So I've been cleaning them very well each time then putting a little hydraulic oil on the top part for the seal before I retract them.
@@RVwithTito I use the hydraulic oil on the rag every 4 - 6 months. With the spray bottle you do not need to get down on the ground. My old knees can only take so much anymore 🥴
When the dish soap spray is on the cylinders, do you raise and lower the jacks at all or do you just let it sit for a while before wiping it off? I spend the entire winter in the desert, so this sounds like a good idea for me to do regularly
Hi I'm new to your channel. Happy to be a new subscriber. My wife and I are trying to buy our first RV. These kinds of videos are going to be so helpful to our future. Thank you for filming and posting
Great job as always. If by chance the jacks still jerk a bit when retracting you could try replacing 1 quart of fluid with 1 quart of 15w motorcycle fork oil. Mine are a lipper system and that is what they recommend. My system uses ATF fluid as the hydraulic fluid.
Good job Brian, not sure if I would keep my face or any part of my body though that close to a stretched-out spring being pulled by a car.. I guess you're okay. So thanks for the video
Used bolt cutters to remove the unbroken springs. 12 wedges worked perfect to preload the new springs. Wood shims are better because you can break off the edges to maneuver around to get the spring on.
Great job! Cool idea using the car. I know you're pretty meticulous about your work. I did notice that one of the spring's hooks was facing out, I would have made sure it was facing in, to avoid the possibility of hooking onto anything. Just my anal self, I guess. I did have my mechanic change two of them on my coach, and the way they did after the coach was raised in the air was to hang on the foot with their body weight and release the spring! Of course, it was in the air which makes that process easy peasy. I am about to do solar panels on the roof using your technique with the struts. Enjoying all your videos!
Thanks for sharing how they did it. I wasn't too concerned about anything getting snagged since there's nothing nearby. If I tried to rotate it the hook at the top would get messed up. So I left it alone. So far so good. I also got the front springs on the other day.
Jeff Knutter's advice on how to change springs makes sense too. Pasting here since it kinda gets lost in his long post: "Also just so you know there is a much easier way to change out the springs which takes about 10 minutes per jack. Leave the jack in the fully retracted position. With the worn out springs you will notice you can push down on the pad and separate if from the end of the cylinder. Firmly grab the pad and push down while rotating it (away from your body) off the end of the cylinder. Make sure you clear the bolt head on the rod end as you rotate it off. Also keep a firm hold of the pad until the springs relax. It’s so easy you won’t need any tools to remove the pad. When you are finished the pad will be hanging from the two springs beside the cylinder. Replace the springs. Starting with the pad hanging from the springs, rotate the pad back into place by using a pry bar and popping it over the bolt head as you rotate it back on. It’s a leverage game which is a little difficult with new springs but very possible to do without shims. Just be careful not to get any body parts between the pad and rod".
You have great videos Sir. I realize this is a long shot. But im curious if you by any chance know the location of the leveling jack reservoir on a 92 ford tropical coach?
Nice job Brian (oops I mean Tito). So I have been watching your videos on the improvements to the class A. It appears you have had it out in the desert. Did you spend the winter in Arizona, and if so, how well did the solar work for you. Maybe someday you can do a short video on oops and outakes.
Do you think it would be possible to cut the springs off when they are in the up position (no tension) That way it would save having to shim them all to remove them what do you think?
so the "new to me "2004 30' Jayco Granite Ridge we have is getting some much needed maintenance to the landing gear. do they make a pad like that for the small square feet I have on mine? also I think mine are only the 6,000 lb jacks can I upgrade to 9,000 or 16,000 lb ?
I haven't been able to find a pad for my small square feet on the front. I have wood blocks I put underneath. SnapPad just came out with something similar.
Hi, I have question not related to springs. I noticed on your mud flaps that there are rubber extensions that were added. Were did you get those? I have a class C Fleetwood Tioga Ranger 25G with a mud flat mounted all the way across on the back bumper and rocks are still hitting my towed! I was thinking adding on to the mud flaps to see if this would help with this issue. Any advice you might have would be great.
Those came on this rig already. However, on our Class C, I did add more rubber to the mud flaps and used a couple bolts to attach them to the other flap. It did make a difference.
I like the car trick but you better be real careful. That could definitely be a game changer if it got away from you. And yes I will be doing something similar to it when I change mine next week
Brian hello my friend. My name is Kirk I have the same exact coach only a 2000. Question do you know anything about the jack levelers. When I try to put mine down nothing happens but clicking noise?. Please help me if you can thank you 😊.
Hey Kirk. I'm no authority on the hydraulic system yet and wouldn't know where to start. Perhaps it's one or more of the many solenoids attached to the manifold, but I can't be sure.
There are some jobs that fall right off my radar screen after watching what is involved. This is not one of them. HOWEVER, it is now way down on my list, right under setting my hair on fire and beating it out with a tac hammer. As always, thanks for the information.
Be Careful!! There is a lot of energy in a stretched spring... i would run a cable through center of the spring tied off to the RV and other end to the car BEFORE stretching... if it comes off you want to keep it from launching into someone. A lot of garage door repair guys will tell you stories of springs hurting or killing...
Anyone else just grab them and put them on by hand? No wedges I used a jack to hold the foot in place and just pulled them down. Once the paint broke it wasn't that hard.
Personally I would not use two vehicles like that. I know things are strong to connect etc. but "what if" ... could occur. Then the things could snap back to one or both vehicles and damaging it. If doing it with cars, It might be worth using plywood or something to protect them. I likely would or could try it elsewise with a come-along... but again the operator is in striking zone. I'd never seen these done before so going to have to think on it somewhat... maybe making or gigging up something and let the ram do it somehow... anyway... wish I had a better idea right now but ... I don't. It only took you 11 minutes for you to change them ... that is fast...
Thanks for the tips. I made sure it was going to hold solid before I went ahead with it. Just using what I had on hand and those straps actually held it very well.
![CAMPปลิ้น | EP.83[2/2] ประสบการณ์ขนหัวลุกจากตำนานวงการผี!](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/T_kFecQw7Ds/mqdefault.jpg)
Just finished replacing the front springs. Wouldnt ya know...it took half the time. Go figure 😀
Brian, I have much information about this issue. I have the exact RV, with the exact HWH lift system , and had the exact same issues. I also experienced slow retracting jacks and have basically rebuilt the whole system. The tapered end springs are an upgraded spring and will help for a short time. But I’m sorry to inform you it is just a bandaid and the problem will return, which can cause other problems, and give you a bad day. The real problem lies with the lift cylinder itself. As far as I can tell the rod seal dries out and the increased friction slows down the retracting rod and will eventually stop it all together. When you hit retract, the system opens a dump to tank solenoid (one for each jack) that solenoid will latch on until the jack fully retracts and hits a proxy switch (breaking the latch). The bad part is HWH’s solenoids have a 20 minute duty time. If it takes more than 20 minutes for the jack to fully retract the solenoid will begin to overheat and can possibly burn out. They’re about $150 each and I’ve replaced most of mine. Here is the real sucky part - the lift jacks are not serviceable and must be repaired by HWH. The last ones I sent in were about $250 for a rebuild and $450 for a replacement. That was about 4 years ago so I do not know what they charge today. The good part is the turn around time is just a few days. I did take one of my jacks to work and figured out how to disassemble it (I’m a maintenance repairman in a plastics molding facility and work with hydraulic presses on a daily basis). The bad part is I cannot find a seal rebuild kit for it. I had three of our vendors check and they couldn’t cross any of the parts. So I ended up putting it back together and shipping it in to HWH for rebuilding. If you are interested I took a bunch of pictures of the whole process that I can share with you. I also have the complete schematics of the lifting circuit and room slide out circuits. Also just so you know there is a much easier way to change out the springs which takes about 10 minutes per jack. Leave the jack in the fully retracted position. With the worn out springs you will notice you can push down on the pad and separate if from the end of the cylinder. Firmly grab the pad and push down while rotating it (away from your body) off the end of the cylinder. Make sure you clear the bolt head on the rod end as you rotate it off. Also keep a firm hold of the pad until the springs relax. It’s so easy you won’t need any tools to remove the pad. When you are finished the pad will be hanging from the two springs beside the cylinder. Replace the springs. Starting with the pad hanging from the springs, rotate the pad back into place by using a pry bar and popping it over the bolt head as you rotate it back on. It’s a leverage game which is a little difficult with new springs but very possible to do without shims. Just be careful not to get any body parts between the pad and rod. I’ve done this numerous times without one issue. I can make a video if you want. Enjoy your rig and if you want any of that stuff let me know. I’ll be glad to share.
Great info. Thanks! I'll certainly keep an eye on it. The rear jacks were replaced at some point when the previous owner forgot and drove away. They put the old springs back on the new ones though. So hopefully I can keep those seals alive for a while. I have been considering keeping a couple spare solenoids on hand though...especially since we'll be heading to Alaska soon. Thanks again.
Brian...as always, you are the master of working smarter, not harder. Great video! :)
Haha. Glad it went pretty smooth. 4 more springs to go.
I have been dreading putting these on my 1990 36' Chieftain! Thank for the video Tito.
You bet. Since then I've also found that you can easily pop the foot (with springs attached) on or off quickly with a pry bar. Good luck!
I used old fashion wooden clothes pins for the wedge shaped spacers. Just take the clothes pins apart and they work just as well and easy to do. Also, my right rear jack was always slow and the last one to come up. They would not replace it under warranty because it met the 10 or 15 min HWH spec ..... (which is nonsense). Eventually the jack would just stop half way up & I'd pry it up the rest of the way. So I added two helper springs from Lowes 1" x 12", about $6 ea. That was 15 yrs ago and that jack comes up same time as the other 3 jacks.
Another awesome video Brian! I love how you (and help from others) figure out the easiest, simplest way of doing things. Great job!
Absolutely went as advertised - particularly the tow-strap part. Thanks!
I used paint stir sticks. Worked great. The method you used was better than mine. Thanks Brian.
Either will work. Someone else here said they used clothes pins...another great idea.
Brilliant! I've been really irritated about how slow my jacks retract...now I know how to fix it!
Take a spray bottle and put two drops of Dawn dish soap into the bottle. Fill with water and shake. The spray bottle needs to have a adjustable nozzle for a stream. Also this is not the case if two drops are good, more is better. Now go out and spray the cylinders of your hydraulic leveling system. Be sure to spray the whole cylinder. When I spray from the passenger side I also spray over to the driver's side. Then repeat from the driver's side. This helps loosen any dirt or debris blown by the wind. Also helps lubricate and protect the outer seal of the hydraulic cylinder. This seal is why only two drops of Dawn. To much soap can dry the seal out. Your levelers will start to retract faster. A tech at the HWH manufacturing plant. Advise me about this hack as a way to make the seals last much longer. Stay safe and enjoy the great outdoors.
Thanks for the tip. Yeah. After some time in the windy desert, a light layer of dirt and dust will develop. So I've been cleaning them very well each time then putting a little hydraulic oil on the top part for the seal before I retract them.
@@RVwithTito I use the hydraulic oil on the rag every 4 - 6 months. With the spray bottle you do not need to get down on the ground. My old knees can only take so much anymore 🥴
When the dish soap spray is on the cylinders, do you raise and lower the jacks at all or do you just let it sit for a while before wiping it off?
I spend the entire winter in the desert, so this sounds like a good idea for me to do regularly
@inspired2rv661 I spray the jacks before I raise them. I don't rinse or wipe them off. Just spray all the cylinders and hit the store button.
Great DIY video. Not sure when I’ll need to replace my springs but now I’ll know how to do it.
Yes. Now you know :)
Looking forward to your video how the new solar is working out
Will do. I've got a lot to say about that.
Seems like an efficient effective way to change Springs out.
Sure was :)
Hi I'm new to your channel. Happy to be a new subscriber. My wife and I are trying to buy our first RV. These kinds of videos are going to be so helpful to our future. Thank you for filming and posting
You're very welcome! Good luck with the RV purchase.
OMG who would of thought? Not me 😊 great video thanks
You’re welcome 😊
Another successful project.
Agreed. Found a source for the front springs and they are on their way.
brilliant! thanks! I need to remove two of the rams for rebuilding....but the springs have to come off first
Good luck!
I did pretty much the same routine a you did, yup worked great on our 2003 Kountry star, good job Tito
Great! I just did the front springs the other day. Took less than an hour total. Now that I'm getting good at it I don't have to do it anymore. 😀
Great job as always. If by chance the jacks still jerk a bit when retracting you could try replacing 1 quart of fluid with 1 quart of 15w motorcycle fork oil. Mine are a lipper system and that is what they recommend. My system uses ATF fluid as the hydraulic fluid.
Thanks for the tip. These will also use ATF fluid.
Good job Brian, not sure if I would keep my face or any part of my body though that close to a stretched-out spring being pulled by a car.. I guess you're okay. So thanks for the video
Yes. I survived :)
You always have the best info and video's too. Thanks ed
Very welcome. Hope it was helpful.
Thank you so much for sharing your life and adventures with us.
I bought a 98 cent pack of 50 wooden clothes pens at walmart. Take the spring off and you have two shims. Worked great and a cheap fix.
That works too! Great idea. Thanks for the tip.
Used bolt cutters to remove the unbroken springs. 12 wedges worked perfect to preload the new springs. Wood shims are better because you can break off the edges to maneuver around to get the spring on.
Great job! Cool idea using the car. I know you're pretty meticulous about your work. I did notice that one of the spring's hooks was facing out, I would have made sure it was facing in, to avoid the possibility of hooking onto anything. Just my anal self, I guess. I did have my mechanic change two of them on my coach, and the way they did after the coach was raised in the air was to hang on the foot with their body weight and release the spring! Of course, it was in the air which makes that process easy peasy. I am about to do solar panels on the roof using your technique with the struts. Enjoying all your videos!
Thanks for sharing how they did it. I wasn't too concerned about anything getting snagged since there's nothing nearby. If I tried to rotate it the hook at the top would get messed up. So I left it alone. So far so good. I also got the front springs on the other day.
How funny, I have this on my list of things to do for next week's projects.
Great timing lol
Yeah. Great timing for us both :)
@@RVwithTito I have to do all of them. The tip you provided, I'll have to give a try. Looks like it will speed up the job. Thanks 😊 👍
@@MessianicJudaism I've got 4 more springs on the way and will do the same for the front springs. Good luck!
Jeff Knutter's advice on how to change springs makes sense too. Pasting here since it kinda gets lost in his long post: "Also just so you know there is a much easier way to change out the springs which takes about 10 minutes per jack. Leave the jack in the fully retracted position. With the worn out springs you will notice you can push down on the pad and separate if from the end of the cylinder. Firmly grab the pad and push down while rotating it (away from your body) off the end of the cylinder. Make sure you clear the bolt head on the rod end as you rotate it off. Also keep a firm hold of the pad until the springs relax. It’s so easy you won’t need any tools to remove the pad. When you are finished the pad will be hanging from the two springs beside the cylinder. Replace the springs. Starting with the pad hanging from the springs, rotate the pad back into place by using a pry bar and popping it over the bolt head as you rotate it back on. It’s a leverage game which is a little difficult with new springs but very possible to do without shims. Just be careful not to get any body parts between the pad and rod".
Nice job, you make it look so easy to install. I will bookmark this video when we will have to do the same. Thanks for sharing.
You're welcome. It was easier than I thought.
Wow that was really good
Glad you liked it. I even got the other two done. Those went pretty quick.
humm, very interesting. would of never thought of that Thanks
Give it a try. I just received 4 more springs today 👍
Great video
Glad it was helpful
Excellent video!
You have great videos Sir. I realize this is a long shot. But im curious if you by any chance know the location of the leveling jack reservoir on a 92 ford tropical coach?
Ooh. That is a long shot. I don't know.
Nice job Brian (oops I mean Tito). So I have been watching your videos on the improvements to the class A. It appears you have had it out in the desert. Did you spend the winter in Arizona, and if so, how well did the solar work for you. Maybe someday you can do a short video on oops and outakes.
Yes. We've been in Arizona and Mexico for the last three months and off-grid the whole time. The system is a dream. I'll do an update soon.
Nice job. Always best to work smarter, not harder. I have Atwood electric jacks so no springs to deal with. Still enjoyed the video.
Thanks. Who knows...someday you may end up with an old rig like this with springs.
btw. i think im finally getting that winch ive been eyeing... Looks like it wood be much safer than two vehicles
I've done it since and was able to pop it on with a prybar :)
Some GOOD INFORMATION
Glad to hear it.
Great video, my friend and have you had any of those snap pads fell off or any problem and what did you do to put them on to stay on?
Haven't fallen off yet.
Cool tip .. but my luck? That spring would somehow find its way into the rear window. 🤣
With the long non-elastic straps, my guess would be that the spring would just drop to the ground. Of course I haven't tested that theory :)
Ecstasy! Job finished! (Did you know there is no X in ecstasy?)
Cool!
Nice job Brian were you out in the desert 🌵 doin that
Yup. Out in the desert rollin in the dirt :)
@@RVwithTito that’s great still raining a lot up here in Vancouver bc
Do you think it would be possible to cut the springs off when they are in the up position (no tension) That way it would save having to shim them all to remove them what do you think?
Yeah. I don't see a problem as long as you don't need the old springs.
Tito go to Integrity RV for direct replacement parts especially your springs.
Hey mister Tito I have a 1999 Winnebago adventure will the rear sway bar and front sway bar fit on a freightliner chassis
so the "new to me "2004 30' Jayco Granite Ridge we have is getting some much needed maintenance to the landing gear. do they make a pad like that for the small square feet I have on mine? also I think mine are only the 6,000 lb jacks can I upgrade to 9,000 or 16,000 lb ?
I haven't been able to find a pad for my small square feet on the front. I have wood blocks I put underneath. SnapPad just came out with something similar.
@@RVwithTito will look that up. thanks for the reply
Hi,
I have question not related to springs.
I noticed on your mud flaps that there are rubber extensions that were added. Were did you get those?
I have a class C Fleetwood Tioga Ranger 25G with a mud flat mounted all the way across on the back bumper and rocks are still hitting my towed! I was thinking adding on to the mud flaps to see if this would help with this issue.
Any advice you might have would be great.
Those came on this rig already. However, on our Class C, I did add more rubber to the mud flaps and used a couple bolts to attach them to the other flap. It did make a difference.
Can u add self leveling jacks on a Ford E45032 foot ?
where can i find the bottom jack plate any info would great
I like the car trick but you better be real careful. That could definitely be a game changer if it got away from you. And yes I will be doing something similar to it when I change mine next week
Very true! I was careful. Hope it goes/went well.
Why not just cut the old springs off. 🤷🏼♂️ I understand the install, worked well.
I suppose that would work too...didn't have my cutoff wheel with me though. Plus if anything went wrong I could put the old ones back on.
Brian hello my friend. My name is Kirk I have the same exact coach only a 2000. Question do you know anything about the jack levelers. When I try to put mine down nothing happens but clicking noise?. Please help me if you can thank you 😊.
Hey Kirk. I'm no authority on the hydraulic system yet and wouldn't know where to start. Perhaps it's one or more of the many solenoids attached to the manifold, but I can't be sure.
@@RVwithTito ok thank you. I appreciate it.
God bless
Could you please show me the spring part number? I went to HWH website and couldn't find it. Thanks in advance!
I used these - HWH R1171
To double check count the coils using this guide.
www.hwhcorp.com/mr475000.html
Is there any way to vent a black water tank without running to the ceiling and out through the roof
I'm sure there is, but it's going to smell wherever you vent it.
Keep your eyes on it, because one of mine fell off
Morton Shore
Spinka Shoals
995 Rowe Burgs
Walker Pass
There are some jobs that fall right off my radar screen after watching what is involved. This is not one of them. HOWEVER, it is now way down on my list, right under setting my hair on fire and beating it out with a tac hammer.
As always, thanks for the information.
I guess your hair won't get caught in the springs then...once you get to it :)
Be Careful!! There is a lot of energy in a stretched spring... i would run a cable through center of the spring tied off to the RV and other end to the car BEFORE stretching... if it comes off you want to keep it from launching into someone. A lot of garage door repair guys will tell you stories of springs hurting or killing...
Thanks for the suggestion. I went pretty slow making sure it was hooked in good.
Anyone else just grab them and put them on by hand? No wedges I used a jack to hold the foot in place and just pulled them down. Once the paint broke it wasn't that hard.
I've had to reattach one recently and that's how I did it 🤪 just used a little pry bar to pop it the foot back on. Now I know.
Gabriel Corners
HWH states to never use hydraulic jack oil.
Personally I would not use two vehicles like that. I know things are strong to connect etc. but "what if" ... could occur. Then the things could snap back to one or both vehicles and damaging it. If doing it with cars, It might be worth using plywood or something to protect them. I likely would or could try it elsewise with a come-along... but again the operator is in striking zone. I'd never seen these done before so going to have to think on it somewhat... maybe making or gigging up something and let the ram do it somehow... anyway... wish I had a better idea right now but ... I don't. It only took you 11 minutes for you to change them ... that is fast...
If the world was full of “what if” we would still be in the Stone Age.
Thanks for the tips. I made sure it was going to hold solid before I went ahead with it. Just using what I had on hand and those straps actually held it very well.
There you go again, under vehicles with no safety glasses...ugh
✌🏻🇺🇦🏴☠️
Instead of using a car, use a ratchet tie down.
But then I would have attached the ratchet tie down to my car ? :)
Maybe so? ( or a tree?). I just thought that stretching the spring with a vehicle could be a little scary for some ?
Don't be like me. Stretch old rusty one out too far!