Building a materials and storage loft
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 16 ก.ย. 2024
- Hey everyone, thanks for checking out my video. Today I'll be sharing how I went from a messy and disorganized shop to one with a bit of purpose. I'm talking about intentionally giving things a home and that has to start with your materials. I had too much cluttering up my floor and I could barely walk around my shop. I'll show you an easy weekend project to fix all of that.
I love the loft. A couple of things to point out you might want to adjust in the future. Make sure the front header has side support. some 4 x 4's would be fine. Plus a single board is only needed for a rear leger board if the structure your connecting to can handle the load. Lastly add some bricking 2 x 4's in between the raffters. Other than that. good job!
Absolutely awesome job. My wife and I just closed on a ranch and I have the exact same kind of shop as yours and this is exactly what I was looking for. Thank you for posting. Love the job you did.
Thanks so much!
@@TheTinkirWorkshop what fasteners did you use to to attach the wood headers to the steel tube?
I’m in the middle of building my 26’x10’ mezzanine in a 26x40 building and the i found your info very helpful. The only things I did different was add a 4x6 pressure treated post on the back wall header and a 6x6 pressure treated to the front header. I got the same 21385 tek screws to mount the header wood to metal beams but realized they were too short so I had to countersink them a bit to ensure they went through both pieces of material. Good job and thanks for posting
How far in did you countersink cause I've been doing my head in trying to figure out, what size he used cause the 2-7/8" wouldn't work. It's just enough to not pierce the wood. Which screws to use that would tap thru AND be long enough, was it the same headlocks he had with a countersink or the tek screws you mentioned?
I was just looking for an idea to do something like this in my shop, is exactly how I had it built in my head, awesome job my friend
Thanks so much! Have fun getting your loft built.
Same here
Looks awesome. Great job!!!
Can you share what metal screws you used to attach the rear headed to the building? I’m doing the same thing and I’m concerned about just having screws in that header. The front header is easy because I can use bolts and nuts all the way through. Thanks!
Also curious
Nice work Kris, gives me some ideas for storage.
Awesome! Best of luck.
Looks awesome!👏
Thanks
Dude that looks awesome!!!!!
Thanks bud! 👊🏼
Great build my dude
Thanks much!
Great job! Great video! I hope I can build my shop next year, I'm 10 years away from retiring, and hoping to get me one, I have so much in 3 or 4 places it would be nice to get a shop with storage and organization so I can cleanout the basement and get me a work area.
As I watched i thought a set of stairs going up to the loft could create a nice storage spot underneath for small pieces of wood and other doodads!!! I like it though 👍👍👍
That’s a really smart idea. I thought about putting almost like a sliding library ladder on it at one point, but it just didn’t work out with what I had in the shop.
I built the same in my garage. I used 2 2x6x16 lapped jointed on the front and back with a 4x4 in the middle on front joist.
You need to add support posts..... the way you have it, all the weight is bearing on the screws and thin metal framing except the one 6x6.
2x4's would be sufficient wherever there is a metal post that you're screwed into.
Thanks for the feedback, but this is plenty strong. The header is lagged into 1/8” steel, not thin metal. The back header hits at least 4 steel studs and the front hits 2 plus the 6x6 support in the middle. It’s more than sufficient for this purpose. With it fully loaded with material and storage, it hasn’t even budged even if I’m up there climbing around.
Good idea on that jig!
Thanks. It definitely made the bulls go faster and easier.
No way this would pass a building inspection in NJ. Those steel tubes are only designed to hold the building shell and snow load. You should have installed support posts under the rear ledger and had a structural engineer sign off on the proper support posts and ledger boards for the desired span. The entire structure should be freestanding and carry its own weight plus the expected material to be stored. I recommend confirming with building manufacturer before building a loft to see what they recommend. Otherwise you risk being forced to rip it all out when the inspector shows up now or during CO inspection when you go to sell.
@@SweetZRag It’s a good thing I don’t live in NJ then. That loft has been in place for 4 years now with not one single inkling of an issue. And it wasn’t a problem either when we had the property inspected before selling last year. ✌️
Great stuff man, but aren't you concerned with not having beam support on the back wall?
It does look cool
@@mostrico Do you mean not having the center support beam on the back? No. Because I installed a full ledger board across the back, that was way stronger than even the front was.
Very nice!
looks great . very helpful information . but putting my shelf over the door
Glad the info was helpful! After having the loft for a good while now I’m very glad I did it. Best of luck on your build.
Awesome 😎
Thank you!
I’ve always read that you shouldn’t add any weight to the uprights of these tube buildings because they are engineered to hold only themselves up.
If anything, I feel like it’s made it stronger. Plus it’s been up for 2 years with a ton of weight on it and no issues, so 🤷🏽♂️.
@@TheTinkirWorkshop what did you use to connect the header to the metal tubes/post?
@@kosk9291 he said a lag screw, but from what I’ve ready you shouldn’t use lag screws on these metal tubes. I’m trying to figure this out myself
Looks like it would make everything stronger
You really didn’t need to double the back wall
Great Video !!! Needing to do this exact thing !
Thanks so much!
What kind of screws did you use on the header on back wall?
How did you attach the header to your rear wall? Specific fasteners?
This is what I'm wanting to do for my 10x12! Do you think I need a post in the middle to the floor? That jig is genius 👍
So my total width was 20’ across which is why I did the beam in the center. I think at 10-12’ you’d be fine without it. And thanks about the jig. It really helped speed up the process.
Looks good Brother
Thank you!
I love your vid just a quick question you had two boxes of headlok screws in the back of you truck, one was 2-7/8". What size was the other length that you probably used to go into your metal frame?
I ended up using some self tapping screws to go into the metal frame. I can’t remember the size, but probably something around 3.5” - 4” in length.
Awesome shop! Question for you, how is working and being in the shop with it not being insulated? I'm about to build a detached garage/shop and am contemplating whether or not I should insulate. Any feedback?
Hey Ken, I would highly recommend insulating your shop before you start moving in equipment. That is definitely one thing I regret not doing from the beginning. I definitely plan to do it in the near future though.
Where did I miss the materials list? Floor? 3/4 plywood …..? Thanks!
Great job!!!! What lag screw do you recommend using for the metal post?
Just found the box of screws. They’re Teks® #21385
SELF-DRILLING SCREWS
WOOD-TO-METAL
#12 DIAMETER
2-3¾ LENGTH
Hey bro what kind of screws did you use to screw into the steel post for the wood headers
Sorry, didn’t mean to keep you hanging. I just finally found the box.
Teks® #21385
SELF-DRILLING SCREWS
WOOD-TO-METAL
#12 DIAMETER
2-3¾ LENGTH
Thanks for the video...What Screws did you use to fasten header to metal studs. This is the only part that makes me nervous. I would love to do a 8' x 30 loft, but I don't see how it can be done using metal studs to a wood header
I don’t remember the exact size, but I used a pretty large self tapping screw to go through the wood into the steel beam. I did need to pre-drill a little bit just to help the self tapers since the steel was so thick.
I’m doing this in a week or two and I’m putting 6x6 posts at all four corners plus one in the center of each long run. (10’x28’ - similar to your dimensions) I don’t trust screws through that thin-wall tube to hold the weight. I know there’s potential to overload it so I’d rather transfer the load to the ground. If you’ve ever stripped a self-tapping screw in that tube steel, you know it doesn’t take much.
The cost of a few extra posts, anchors, and header brackets is worth it. You don’t need those expensive post anchors either since it’s interior. The simple angle brackets for posts will be fine.
@@nopainnogain125 Those are all great things to do. Having that loft will open up so much extra space in your shop for sure! Best of luck.
I know its been a minute but do you have a materials list?
What is the wall height of your building? I'm about to order a metal garage and I'm gonna go with 10' walls so I can add a storage loft (similar to yours). Also, what's the roof pitch? I'm trying to decide between a 3/12 and 4/12 pitch.
My walls are 8’ and my guess is that my roof pitch is 3/12. It’s not that steep. If I were to do it again, I’d definitely do 10’ walls, but I do like the current roof pitch.
@@TheTinkirWorkshop Thx for the reply. Good to know about the roof pitch. The 3/12 is standard... but 4/12 is a $1500 upgrade.. so I'm undecided if its worth it or not. I'm definitely doing 10' walls tho.. and we're building it on a stem wall foundation so that'll actually give it another 8" in height.
@@randomstuffwithjoe that’s awesome! I love having that type of building for a shop. It’s been very good to me so far. Next step is figuring out insulation. One of my big regrets not doing that at the beginning.
@TheTinkirWorkshop I found a person selling 4x8 sheets of Poly iso foam board. They were rejects from the manufacturer.... paid $25 a sheet. My 26x 20 building took 46 sheets to insulate. I bought 60 but sold the remainder to someone else.
How long were each of your header pieces?
You really didnt need to double up the back wall
Why not
Hey how are you how many sheets of plywood did you buy
I think it was about 4-5 sheets. It was so long ago and I’ve since moved. But I think that was about the amount I used.
This is exactly what I plan to do in my metal building thanks for making this video!. What type of screws did you use to attach your beam to the steel building supports? It looks like the same ones you used to sandwich the 2X8's together. Also I intend to build a hoist system to safely get material up and down (and me too)!
Any problem with the back header separating from the wall? I have the exact same shed dimensions and separation from the metal tube/ struts is my only concern.
Not at all. The header so screwed right into the steel uprights. It’s been super solid!
@@TheTinkirWorkshop thanks for replying! I saw where you said you use 3/8 inch self tapping screws. Where did you find self tapping screws long enough to accomplish that? I’m having a hard time finding them for some reason.thanks for replying, I’ve been kicking my own tail all day fooling with angle iron trying to come up with an answer!
@@paullegare7502 I honestly can’t remember. I went back and watched the video and it looks like I may have used those timberlok screws. I’ll have to double check when I get home.
@@TheTinkirWorkshop Thank you my friend, I really do appreciate it
Teks® #21385
SELF-DRILLING SCREWS
WOOD-TO-METAL
#12 DIAMETER
2-3¾ LENGTH
What did you use to connect ledger board to metal tubing
I can’t remember off hand. It was a pretty substantial self tapper. Maybe 3/8”.
I just found the box of screws I used.
Teks® #21385
SELF-DRILLING SCREWS
WOOD-TO-METAL
#12 DIAMETER
2-3¾ LENGTH
What brand is the shop lights and do they shine down as well as up?
I got them off Amazon. It was just like a 10 pack of led bar lights. They shine 360°.
You have inspired me! How tall are your side walls?
Walls are 8ft tall.
@@TheTinkirWorkshop Thank you for the fast response. I hope my build turns out as well as yours.
@@andrewjames3411 You’re very welcome. Best of luck on your build!
-Kris
Good project....your music is distracting!
What kind of screws did you use for the header? I would have calculated the tensile strength of your screws in order to determine the maximum weight possible for your loft. You must also live in a dry climate because you have no insulation in your workshop. It would be sad to see that condensation has ruined your CNC and other steel machines with rust. I would not recommend this type of loft. You should check with an engineer on what you should do versus what you actually did so your not wasting your hard earned money.
Appreciate the feedback, but I didn’t need anyones validation on what I should or shouldn’t build. This loft has been in place for over a year and has more than exceeded expectations. As for lack of insulation, I just haven’t been able to afford it yet. So I regularly keep up with machine maintenance to avoid the rust issues.
@@TheTinkirWorkshop You're right, you didn't. And when it falls and injuries a loved one, well, that's on you.
Still holding strong? ive been reading about not adding weight to the metal tubes. wanting to do this in mine next weekend but i was going to frame the wall but if i dont need to then i wont lol
Yeah, it’s still holding very strong. I never had an issue with the weight added to the metal tubes. In fact I think it tied them together and made it all much stronger.
@@TheTinkirWorkshopthat's not how it works. Those metal structure tubes now became load bearing for part of the loft and anything you store on it. They are only designed to support the weight of the building itself.
@@nicklashway6636 Thanks much for you comment. 👍🏽
@@nicklashway6636I'm going to use posts to hold the weight not the tubing
How tall is your loft and your walls?
Was about to ask the same question.
Ya need some sort of a lift ….. awkward heavy stuff up and down a ladder is not good .
Yeah, that would help for sure. But I’m usually only putting cut offs up there. Not really storing full sheet goods.
What did you use for lags going into your metal building studs because I'm about ready to do the same in my metal building.
Did you ever figure out what to use to secure the header to the metal tubing? This dude wasn't very thorough. It looks pretty good, but he left a lot out.
@@madcow5x5 no I didn't he never got back with me.
A lot of weight on the outside corners why no beams.
There are no outside beams because the headers are screwed directly into the steel structure and are more than solid.
@@TheTinkirWorkshop ok cool, thanks for replying
And the structural engineers go arrrgh
How so?
Columns not designed to take lateral forces. But hey as you said been standing there for years now so wgaf
9 ft side walls?
I feel like they were 8’ walls. I can’t remember now. I’ve since moved so I no longer have the shop.
Does anyone have any clue what the thing is called under the entry door on an aluminum garage? The aluminum beam (part of the frame) I keep tripping on it and want to find a way to put a kicker there or something but can’t find what I’m looking for.
We have the same building and also keep tripping over the threshold of the doorway. Any suggestion from anyone other than a wooden ramp of sorts?
Cut it out and replace with a framed door.
what size is your shop?
It’s 20’ x 25’.
What size shop is this?
My shop is 20 x 25.
Nice! We got a 14'x28 and a 12x24!
What was the cost for the lumber?
Oh geeze. I honestly can’t remember. I tried looking for some e-receipts but couldn’t find any for when I built this. I’d imagine it would cost at least twice now what it originally cost me to make.
Looking good but your flag was backwards the stars have to be to the left and I know it wasn't your camera because the rating on your shirt was correct not backwards
Yup, I’ve already fixed that in my shop. Unfortunately it’s in the video so I can’t change how the orientation was during filming.