Great vid! Incredible bike, talk about an exotic. Found your video cuz I was searching TH-cam to see if anyone else had made thier own stem adapter. I build up what I call retro-mods...high quality vintage steel road bikes with a tasteful mix of period correct and modern bits. For example, my winter daily rider is a mid 80's Kuwahara touring frame. Of course, the quill stem limited bar selection, and I'm in love with the FSA compact bars on my modern Pinarello. Looked into stem adaptors at my local shop and online. Was not too impressed. So I made my own. Seeing as I have boxes full of vintage parts, I sacrificed a quill stem and cut off the forward reaching arm or whatever. I then filed it round, a lot of work I'll admit. After sanding and polishing, I had a quill "stump". Cut a couple of aluminum sleeves to space it up. I could now put any modern stem and bar comb I wanted. It looks great. I use the little clamps from MTB handlebar grips as spacers below the stem so it doesn't look stupid. You know, that spindly looking 1" stem under a beefy looking modern stem.
I guess your customer wants a more upright position now. I have a 1 inch threadless steerer tube on a custom steel frameset made in 2003. One inch is pretty much dead these days. Nice seeing that Seven since I have a Seven MTB built in 2003.
Yes, the customer was not as flexible as he was when the bike was new. It had a pretty aggressive riding position from back in the day, and he just wanted to keep riding the bike and be comfortable. I rode it around a little when it was done. It had some torsional flex for sure, but man, it rode SO SMOOTH over rough roads! A really sweet bike! Thanks for taking the time to comment!
Nice video. Can you tell me the spacer manufacturer or from where I can get them? Also are the spacers 1 1/8 or 1 inch? Cause their external diameter appears to be a perfect match/flush to the 1 1/8 stem. Thank you!
The spacer kit I used was from Wheels MFG. They were 1" x 10mm, but Wheels MFG offers them in 2.5mm and 5mm heights in black or silver. I found these on Amazon amzn.to/2QZydkM or you can use this link to the Wheels MFG versions: wheelsmfg.com/products/headset-parts/headset-spacers.html?p=2
Can I convert from 1 1/8 threaded to 1 1/8 threadless? Go from thread to threadless as long as everything is the same size? Unable to find clear answer anywhere about this. Replace headset to threadless one? Replace handlebar stem and handlebars if have to?
It's a 1" or 25.4mm to 1 1/8" or 28.6mm adapter shim. It allows the use of a more common 1 1/8 handlebar stem to be used on a 1" fork steerer tube. amzn.to/2RS0idv
This was a big help to see! Question for you. I just bought a vintage 90s mtb with a 1 1/8in threaded steerer. Im going to turn it into a drop bar fun machine. The headset issue makes finding the stem dimension I want very limited to get the cockpit dimensions I'm after. Can I ditch the fork and headset and install a threadless headset into my headtube so I can run a threadless 1 1/8in threadless fork and open my options for stems up?
Yes, it's the same process as this video, but just using 1 1/8" components instead of 1". I think you'll find you have a lot more choices for parts with the 1 1/8" steerer size. Thanks for your question!
drop bars on mtb's? what are people smoking these days? Does that abomination of a silhouette sit well in your eyes? "many people have done it" so copying others stupidity is normal these days. Handle bar shapes were invented for a purpose and have their functions.
I have my 1992 Schwinn CrissCross that I used throughout my college. It has sentimental value to me, and I'd like to upgrade the bar to something that is a bit more modern. From your video, it appears that I just buy a set of Cane Creek headset. Can you comment on how to pick the right parts to replace? I'm not asking for my specific part, but just generically how you would find the right part through Cane Creek. Thanks in advance!
You would need to replace the fork as well. Another option on a Schwinn CrissCross would be to replace the existing quill stem and handlebars with a quill stem adapter. This will allow you to use a modern 1 1/8" treadless stem and more common 31.8mm handlebar. With the quill stem adapter, you could keep your existing fork and headset and use a more modern and easier to acquire handlebar and stem. The quill stem adapter will install inlace of your existing stem, and the new 1 1/8 stem clamps on to the top of the quill stem adapter. This is an example of one that would work with your bike: amzn.to/2LpvWfm
If you've got a lathe and a welder, you can make a 1" post to weld into the cut off stub of the 1 1/8" fork's original post. Alternatively you can cut the 1" tube off the frame and weld on a 1 1/8" one (you'll need an AC TIG with argon gas if it's aluminium).
If you have an "American standard" headtube with a 32.5mm ID you can use a Retro Ryder from Genuine Bicycle Products. It allows you to use a 1.125 steerer in an older frame. This is the only unit I know of that allows this. Does not come in or fit other size head tubes
Hey there. I hope you can help me out. Do you think I can add a shock suspension fork onto my Trek fx by converting my stem from threaded to threadless?
Rockshox used to make decent high-travel nitrogen charged suspension forks for a threaded headset. They're probably all old stock by this point, but you might be able to get one and rebuild the shocks to make it as good as new.
Hi I need a little help finding parts for my vintage bike. Have a 1998 cannondale bud light I believe it's the same frame as a cannondale m400. Trying to figure out what parts to convert my headset to threadless like this video. Do you have any thoughts that could help me out?
To go full threadless like the bike in the video, you'll need a 1" threadless headset ( the same one in the video would work), a fork, a new stem and probably handlebar if you're looking for more modern 31.8mm bar/stem interface. Another option would be a quill stem adapter: amzn.to/2Vj4Gof That would allow you to use your current fork and headset, but allow you to use a current bar/stem.
@@JoeyMesa thank you for the reply! I saw the adapter on amazon and asked a friend if thats the best option to save the fork but he said if I put an adapter it would make the whole quill system fragile as it would add another screw on piece. Would adding an adapter compromise the integrity of the setup?
Help me I’m going crazy ! I have an old 99’s cannondale frame with a 1” head tube and the only fork I can find is a 1”treadless fork would this be the same case for my project ? I found a 1” threadless headset as well thx
I have the Windsor Wellington 2.0 road bike from Bikesdirect.com. It came with a 1inch threaded steele fork. I want to upgrade to a carbon fork/ threadless setup. Can my headtube except both 1inch and 1 1/8 sterrer forks? Or do i have to have a fork with a 1inch steerer only?. My bike also comes in a 4.0 version that has the setup with the carbon fork and threadless headset but I'm unsure how it was pulled of. They say it has a VP components headset. Also does a 1 inch threadless headset go with the 1 inch steerer? Or do you have to use a 1 1/8 inch headset combined with a 1 1/8 steerer? Or a 1 1/8 headset with a 1 inch steerer? Not sure how it works. I would rather purchase a fork with a 1 1/8 steerer of possible so i can use my modern fsa stem without the shim insert. But in the end, what ever works i will be fine with. Sorry for the long reply. I am new to doing something like this.
Thanks for the question! Due to the inside diameter of your frames head tube, you're locked into a 1" steerer tube fork. There are a few 1" treadless fork and headset options, but you'll basically be performing the same task as I've demonstrated in this video.
@@JoeyMesa Thank you for the reply. When all was said n done, they want just over a hundred bucks for a carbon 1" threadless fork. Cheapest I've found. That combined with the headset \ shim and a couple of tools to complete the job would end up costing upwards atleast 150$..and my frame is too big for me to begin with.. but with some adjustment in stem size..shallow 65mm drop bars and my seat pushed forwards all the way made it work best it could. So instead i found a brand new never used stripped down frame/fork in more my size for 199$ with a carbon fork with 1 1/8 steerer tube and headset already attached to the frame. I'm going to transfer the parts over from my current frame to the new one. I have new bar tape and new cables sitting around.👍 Seemed like the more logical approach for me. I started working on my own bikes last year and really enjoy it. Tools add up and can be expensive. I am collecting them little by little. Just figured i tell lol. Thanks again.
I have a classic lugged frame with a 1" headtube and I wanted it to look a little bit modern and Im planning to buy a 1-1/8" carbon fork. could this be possible? what headset should I use? thanks.
If you have an "American standard" headtube with a 32.5mm ID you can use a Retro Ryder from Genuine Bicycle Products. It allows you to use a 1.125 steerer in an older frame. This is the only unit I know of that allows this. Does not come in or fit other size head tubes
so the fork dictates what style of headset you have? But the quill stem you can put anything just respect the 1" or 1"+ size right? I've found a chorus campa 1" but threadless and couldn't buy it cause i have classical threaded. Anything other than having sealed bearings, i don't see the worth in headset upgrades. Even the manufacturers just keep reinventing for the sake of people buying, instead just stay with what works. Maybe the riser threadless sets look the part on a MTB but on a roadbike? come on
The dictation of a headset is not so much dictated by the fork, but by the overall frame/fork configuration. Although a 1" threaded fork with a lugged frame is appealing visually, a treadless fork, especially with a 1 1/8" diameter has many advantages. A modern tapered fork even more so.
Hi Joey! Thanks for this video. I'm in the process of installing a 1" threadless fork on a 1989 Specialized Rockhopper. I have a 1" Cane Creek headset and a 1 1/8" stem with a shim, so roughly same setup as yours. My question is: did you use 1" or 1 1/8" spacers? 1" spacers are really hard to find in my area.
I used 1" spacers from Wheels MFG: wheelsmfg.com/products/headset-parts/headset-spacers.html?p=2 I found these on Amazon: amzn.to/2QZydkM Another option that I've used before is instead of using the 1" to 1 1/8" stem shim to use the 1 1/8 stem on a 1" steerer tube is using a 25.4mm to 28.6mm seat post shim. It's basically the same thing, but much taller and will allow you to use a 1 1/8" stem and spacers on a 1" fork steerer. amzn.to/3aBMb3N
@@JoeyMesa It would look better to use a single spacer of the right height than a bunch of short ones stacked on top of each other. You don't need something that's been specifically manufactured for a bike. Just buy a length of aluminum tubing with the diameter and wall thickness that you want, and they cut it to size. For example, 1.5" OD tubing with a 0.25" wall thickness would have an inner diameter of 1", like so - www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/aluminum/1-5-od-x-0-25-wall-x-1-id-aluminum-round-tube-6061-t6-extruded/pid/4362 That stuff is even 6061-T6, which is overkill for a spacer, and $15 gets you a foot of it. If you have a lathe or some other way to spin it, it would only take a few minutes to polish it. I'm not sure what the inner diameter would need to be (i.e., it should slide on easily without being too sloppy of a fit), but whatever it is, I'm sure you can find it in raw tubing form. The companies that make those headset spacers are buying the raw tubing from somewhere.
Thank you. Very useful video. On to unsolicited film-making advice: You've chosen a poor camera angle, looking up at your work from below, and too distant to see what you are doing. Imagine someone standing beside you watching you work. Put the camera there. In not moving your camera around during filming you have made a very good choice. Your viewer doesn't have to figure out where they are from one moment to the next, and you don't have to edit. Your background is too busy. There's too much stuff, and I can't see your work as well as I might. [Don't mind me, I am a professional lighting technician, I've worked on set for 25 years, I can't keep my mouth shut.]
Thanks for your feedback! The camera in this case is just my phone. When I'm doing an actual repair, as was the case in this instance, I don't have much time to do a lot of planning and set up. I just put the camera where I can and try to get the best shots on the fly.
Why did I have to scroll so far through google to find this video? This is exactly what I'm trying to do and it's a great video
Great vid! Incredible bike, talk about an exotic. Found your video cuz I was searching TH-cam to see if anyone else had made thier own stem adapter. I build up what I call retro-mods...high quality vintage steel road bikes with a tasteful mix of period correct and modern bits. For example, my winter daily rider is a mid 80's Kuwahara touring frame. Of course, the quill stem limited bar selection, and I'm in love with the FSA compact bars on my modern Pinarello. Looked into stem adaptors at my local shop and online. Was not too impressed. So I made my own. Seeing as I have boxes full of vintage parts, I sacrificed a quill stem and cut off the forward reaching arm or whatever. I then filed it round, a lot of work I'll admit. After sanding and polishing, I had a quill "stump". Cut a couple of aluminum sleeves to space it up. I could now put any modern stem and bar comb I wanted. It looks great. I use the little clamps from MTB handlebar grips as spacers below the stem so it doesn't look stupid. You know, that spindly looking 1" stem under a beefy looking modern stem.
will any 1" threadless headset work? and are those common? what about fork choices?
Can i put a threadless 1 inch fork on a threaded head set??
No, you need a treadless type headset.
I guess your customer wants a more upright position now. I have a 1 inch threadless steerer tube on a custom steel frameset made in 2003. One inch is pretty much dead these days. Nice seeing that Seven since I have a Seven MTB built in 2003.
Yes, the customer was not as flexible as he was when the bike was new. It had a pretty aggressive riding position from back in the day, and he just wanted to keep riding the bike and be comfortable. I rode it around a little when it was done. It had some torsional flex for sure, but man, it rode SO SMOOTH over rough roads! A really sweet bike!
Thanks for taking the time to comment!
like the farly in the backround!
sir what size headset ?
Nice breakdown, thanks
You're welcome! Thanks for taking the time to leave feedback!
i want to put ridgid 27.5 carbon forks on my 1996 rockhopper. can you tell me what i need? thanks
In theory bike mechanics hate answering questions like that. They want you to pay for it or learn yourself.
Is that a cabon steerer tube , or a aluminium one. Thanks
Hi I have a question I have lugged type frame and IT has a 30mm headtube is IT possible to use a carbon fork to my frame?
Nice video. Can you tell me the spacer manufacturer or from where I can get them? Also are the spacers 1 1/8 or 1 inch? Cause their external diameter appears to be a perfect match/flush to the 1 1/8 stem. Thank you!
The spacer kit I used was from Wheels MFG. They were 1" x 10mm, but Wheels MFG offers them in 2.5mm and 5mm heights in black or silver. I found these on Amazon amzn.to/2QZydkM or you can use this link to the Wheels MFG versions: wheelsmfg.com/products/headset-parts/headset-spacers.html?p=2
Can I convert from 1 1/8 threaded to 1 1/8 threadless? Go from thread to threadless as long as everything is the same size? Unable to find clear answer anywhere about this. Replace headset to threadless one? Replace handlebar stem and handlebars if have to?
Sir what is the name of the item that you present on 1:04-1:07 seconds?? (Time on your video)
It's a 1" or 25.4mm to 1 1/8" or 28.6mm adapter shim. It allows the use of a more common 1 1/8 handlebar stem to be used on a 1" fork steerer tube. amzn.to/2RS0idv
What was the acceptable safe number of spacers that you used.
is it possible to buy this now ?
I’m sure it’s still available. If not from a bike shop that’s local to you, definitely available on Amazon or eBay.
What is the size of headset ?
1 inch
Hello Joey, I was wondering if you know if the customer is happy with the fork, I'm about to buy one
Yes, as far as I know.
@@JoeyMesa thank you!
but how threadless fork fit in that and what headset size did u use?
1" size steerer tube. Headsets are available in this size in either threaded or treadless versions.
My bike has a problem please help me
Every time I go to no hander driving my bike will always go left
You may have a possible bent frame or fork. Best case your headset is damaged.
@@JoeyMesa thanks man
Could this be done to fit a 20" mountain bike suspension fork onto a BMX frame to build a tiny dirt jumper for kids?
Yes, but I don't really know of any decent quality 20" suspension forks. Most BMX dirt jumping is done with ridged forks.
Headset size?
1 inch or 25.4mm
Is it compatible using 1inch headset and 1 ⅛ steerer tube?
No. You have to use a 1" fork on a bike with a small head tube.
What Headsets size did you use?
1"
What's the tire clearance on the fork? I want to do the same on my bike but want to be sure that the fork will clear a 28c tire.
Sorry, but honestly I can't remember.
This was a big help to see! Question for you. I just bought a vintage 90s mtb with a 1 1/8in threaded steerer. Im going to turn it into a drop bar fun machine. The headset issue makes finding the stem dimension I want very limited to get the cockpit dimensions I'm after. Can I ditch the fork and headset and install a threadless headset into my headtube so I can run a threadless 1 1/8in threadless fork and open my options for stems up?
Yes, it's the same process as this video, but just using 1 1/8" components instead of 1". I think you'll find you have a lot more choices for parts with the 1 1/8" steerer size. Thanks for your question!
@@JoeyMesa sweet, thanks for the answer!
drop bars on mtb's? what are people smoking these days? Does that abomination of a silhouette sit well in your eyes? "many people have done it" so copying others stupidity is normal these days. Handle bar shapes were invented for a purpose and have their functions.
I have my 1992 Schwinn CrissCross that I used throughout my college. It has sentimental value to me, and I'd like to upgrade the bar to something that is a bit more modern. From your video, it appears that I just buy a set of Cane Creek headset. Can you comment on how to pick the right parts to replace? I'm not asking for my specific part, but just generically how you would find the right part through Cane Creek. Thanks in advance!
You would need to replace the fork as well. Another option on a Schwinn CrissCross would be to replace the existing quill stem and handlebars with a quill stem adapter. This will allow you to use a modern 1 1/8" treadless stem and more common 31.8mm handlebar. With the quill stem adapter, you could keep your existing fork and headset and use a more modern and easier to acquire handlebar and stem. The quill stem adapter will install inlace of your existing stem, and the new 1 1/8 stem clamps on to the top of the quill stem adapter. This is an example of one that would work with your bike: amzn.to/2LpvWfm
Hi, i have 1'threaded head set and i want to rebuilt to the threadles ahead. Can so can i rebuilt to the 1 1/8? Thank you
There is no headset that I know of that will allow a 1 1/8" steerer tube fork to fit into a frame designed for a 1" steerer tube.
If you've got a lathe and a welder, you can make a 1" post to weld into the cut off stub of the 1 1/8" fork's original post. Alternatively you can cut the 1" tube off the frame and weld on a 1 1/8" one (you'll need an AC TIG with argon gas if it's aluminium).
If you have an "American standard" headtube with a 32.5mm ID you can use a Retro Ryder from Genuine Bicycle Products. It allows you to use a 1.125 steerer in an older frame. This is the only unit I know of that allows this. Does not come in or fit other size head tubes
Hey there. I hope you can help me out. Do you think I can add a shock suspension fork onto my Trek fx by converting my stem from threaded to threadless?
There may be more options for a threadless version, but there should be options out there for converting the bike to a suspension fork.
Rockshox used to make decent high-travel nitrogen charged suspension forks for a threaded headset. They're probably all old stock by this point, but you might be able to get one and rebuild the shocks to make it as good as new.
Hi I need a little help finding parts for my vintage bike.
Have a 1998 cannondale bud light I believe it's the same frame as a cannondale m400. Trying to figure out what parts to convert my headset to threadless like this video.
Do you have any thoughts that could help me out?
To go full threadless like the bike in the video, you'll need a 1" threadless headset ( the same one in the video would work), a fork, a new stem and probably handlebar if you're looking for more modern 31.8mm bar/stem interface.
Another option would be a quill stem adapter: amzn.to/2Vj4Gof
That would allow you to use your current fork and headset, but allow you to use a current bar/stem.
@@JoeyMesa thank you for the reply!
I saw the adapter on amazon and asked a friend if thats the best option to save the fork but he said if I put an adapter it would make the whole quill system fragile as it would add another screw on piece.
Would adding an adapter compromise the integrity of the setup?
Where can i buy 1" threadless fork
This is the Ritchey fork I used in the conversion: amzn.to/2BbMpCi
Would you be willing to sell the fork you removed? I have a Campagnolo Bianchi with a bent fork, fork is 1", 700c, stem is 5.25 long. Thanks
The bike is/was not mine.
Help me I’m going crazy ! I have an old 99’s cannondale frame with a 1” head tube and the only fork I can find is a 1”treadless fork would this be the same case for my project ? I found a 1” threadless headset as well thx
Yes, it’s the same swap. If you use a 1” to 1 1/8” shim, you’ll have a lot more choices with modern bars and stems as well.
Threaded with quill is killer
Not a big fan huge stack height
Queries for smaller frame
I have the Windsor Wellington 2.0 road bike from Bikesdirect.com. It came with a 1inch threaded steele fork. I want to upgrade to a carbon fork/ threadless setup. Can my headtube except both 1inch and 1 1/8 sterrer forks? Or do i have to have a fork with a 1inch steerer only?.
My bike also comes in a 4.0 version that has the setup with the carbon fork and threadless headset but I'm unsure how it was pulled of. They say it has a VP components headset.
Also does a 1 inch threadless headset go with the 1 inch steerer? Or do you have to use a 1 1/8 inch headset combined with a 1 1/8 steerer? Or a 1 1/8 headset with a 1 inch steerer? Not sure how it works.
I would rather purchase a fork with a 1 1/8 steerer of possible so i can use my modern fsa stem without the shim insert. But in the end, what ever works i will be fine with.
Sorry for the long reply. I am new to doing something like this.
Thanks for the question! Due to the inside diameter of your frames head tube, you're locked into a 1" steerer tube fork. There are a few 1" treadless fork and headset options, but you'll basically be performing the same task as I've demonstrated in this video.
@@JoeyMesa Thank you for the reply.
When all was said n done, they want just over a hundred bucks for a carbon 1" threadless fork. Cheapest I've found.
That combined with the headset \ shim and a couple of tools to complete the job would end up costing upwards atleast 150$..and my frame is too big for me to begin with.. but with some adjustment in stem size..shallow 65mm drop bars and my seat pushed forwards all the way made it work best it could.
So instead i found a brand new never used stripped down frame/fork in more my size for 199$ with a carbon fork with 1 1/8 steerer tube and headset already attached to the frame. I'm going to transfer the parts over from my current frame to the new one. I have new bar tape and new cables sitting around.👍
Seemed like the more logical approach for me.
I started working on my own bikes last year and really enjoy it. Tools add up and can be expensive. I am collecting them little by little.
Just figured i tell lol.
Thanks again.
@@TboneTenEighties Nice! Sounds like a good plan to me!
I have a classic lugged frame with a 1" headtube and I wanted it to look a little bit modern and Im planning to buy a 1-1/8" carbon fork. could this be possible? what headset should I use? thanks.
No, there's no headset I'm aware of that will allow a 1 1/8" steerer to fit into a head tube designed for a 1" steerer.
If you have an "American standard" headtube with a 32.5mm ID you can use a Retro Ryder from Genuine Bicycle Products. It allows you to use a 1.125 steerer in an older frame. This is the only unit I know of that allows this. Does not come in or fit other size head tubes
so the fork dictates what style of headset you have? But the quill stem you can put anything just respect the 1" or 1"+ size right? I've found a chorus campa 1" but threadless and couldn't buy it cause i have classical threaded. Anything other than having sealed bearings, i don't see the worth in headset upgrades. Even the manufacturers just keep reinventing for the sake of people buying, instead just stay with what works. Maybe the riser threadless sets look the part on a MTB but on a roadbike? come on
The dictation of a headset is not so much dictated by the fork, but by the overall frame/fork configuration. Although a 1" threaded fork with a lugged frame is appealing visually, a treadless fork, especially with a 1 1/8" diameter has many advantages. A modern tapered fork even more so.
Hi Joey! Thanks for this video. I'm in the process of installing a 1" threadless fork on a 1989 Specialized Rockhopper. I have a 1" Cane Creek headset and a 1 1/8" stem with a shim, so roughly same setup as yours. My question is: did you use 1" or 1 1/8" spacers? 1" spacers are really hard to find in my area.
I used 1" spacers from Wheels MFG: wheelsmfg.com/products/headset-parts/headset-spacers.html?p=2 I found these on Amazon: amzn.to/2QZydkM Another option that I've used before is instead of using the 1" to 1 1/8" stem shim to use the 1 1/8 stem on a 1" steerer tube is using a 25.4mm to 28.6mm seat post shim. It's basically the same thing, but much taller and will allow you to use a 1 1/8" stem and spacers on a 1" fork steerer. amzn.to/3aBMb3N
Just change the silver spacers for black ones and It will look nicer
From what I remember, the 1" spacers of any color are getting harder to find, but I could be wrong.
@@JoeyMesa It would look better to use a single spacer of the right height than a bunch of short ones stacked on top of each other. You don't need something that's been specifically manufactured for a bike. Just buy a length of aluminum tubing with the diameter and wall thickness that you want, and they cut it to size. For example, 1.5" OD tubing with a 0.25" wall thickness would have an inner diameter of 1", like so - www.onlinemetals.com/en/buy/aluminum/1-5-od-x-0-25-wall-x-1-id-aluminum-round-tube-6061-t6-extruded/pid/4362
That stuff is even 6061-T6, which is overkill for a spacer, and $15 gets you a foot of it. If you have a lathe or some other way to spin it, it would only take a few minutes to polish it. I'm not sure what the inner diameter would need to be (i.e., it should slide on easily without being too sloppy of a fit), but whatever it is, I'm sure you can find it in raw tubing form. The companies that make those headset spacers are buying the raw tubing from somewhere.
Thank you. Very useful video.
On to unsolicited film-making advice: You've chosen a poor camera angle, looking up at your work from below, and too distant to see what you are doing. Imagine someone standing beside you watching you work. Put the camera there.
In not moving your camera around during filming you have made a very good choice. Your viewer doesn't have to figure out where they are from one moment to the next, and you don't have to edit.
Your background is too busy. There's too much stuff, and I can't see your work as well as I might.
[Don't mind me, I am a professional lighting technician, I've worked on set for 25 years, I can't keep my mouth shut.]
Thanks for your feedback! The camera in this case is just my phone. When I'm doing an actual repair, as was the case in this instance, I don't have much time to do a lot of planning and set up. I just put the camera where I can and try to get the best shots on the fly.
@@JoeyMesa Doing it like that makes for a very useful video for the likes of me.
Ruinned
Improved...
Where did you get this headset and what is it
I believe it’s a Ritchey headset, but there’s other less expensive options.