Wouldn't use threadlock....bit of moly paste or even just light oil. Earlier engines used regular bolts & tin gaskets, the later engines like yours used composite gaskets & stretch or torque to yeild bolts hence the angle rather than a definative torque. That was the same time they deketed the outboard row of head bolts as they actually hinder the head sealkng. If you need a thread sealer (front cover generally calls for that from memory) then permatex do a really good product exactly for that purpose. Sort of surprised you didn't put the cam followers in before fitting the heads but maybe thats just me!
When you're working on anything like a car restoration, the first thing to do is work out a safe way to handle and move the heaviest object you're going to handle - possibly the motor. Engine stands and lifts are your friend.
Ive got the crane to get it in and out but not of the stands will fit under the bench, and if not under the bench the car won't go back in the garage, so I had to leave it on the trolley!
It is very brave to release a video right after you have finished a stage. If you decide to take the heads off to slip in the cam followers and pushrods (which would be the decent thing to do, having consideration for the next mechanic removing the heads, instead of smuggling them in through the heads with rockers removed) you may want to heat the bolt heads with a propane torch or a gas welder to soften the thread locker. You will need new head bolts. A thought that occurred to me while watching: Whenever you feel the need to say "this doesn't make any sense", go and do some research. It may seem like a waste of time at first, especially if you don't have access to internet in the garage but eventually it may save you time and money.
I know what you mean...I bought an Audi B7 RS4 in February as I missed that V8 sound after selling my Mustang. Which V8 did you just drive...or can't you say 😉
Just out of curiosity, I thought 4.6 are 10 bolt heads? The outside bolts are probably only worth tightening lightly. Good video, looking forward to seeing it running.
Im trying to work out how to do a live stream and read the comments to answer questions when 15k rolls around. If I figure it out Ill shout before it happens!
Hi Matt, great video,what a lump that is but it's looking good,a engine stand would be better but it seems a bit cramped there,can't wait to see it purring again.
@15:15 *PERMANENT* thread lock!? Eek! The 90 degree angle torque setting is to allow the bolts to stretch. You should have to wait between each 90 degree for about 15 mins to let them stretch. They are torque-to-yield bolts, and shouldn't be reused.
@@furiousdriving Yeah, you mentioned in the video you had conflicting / partial instructions. I'm no expert but any head bolt I've fitted with an angular torque requirement has had fitting instructions from the manufacturer of the engine (if OEM) or of the fastener (if 3rd party) specifying the wait period to allow for stretch. It's most likely why you had such a struggle.
I hope you never have to remove those heads because thread lock is NOT what you needed. In fact a good substitute for the 3 M sealer/lube is plumbers teflon paste (not tape!) used for lubing large screw threads on liquid and gas lines. Now,back to the thread lock. When the bolts are undone in the future, the threads will come out with the bolt ..... 😥
You'll now be wondering why your legs are aching so much - better than yoga or the gym! Good work. Just look forward to that nice burble when it's all finished :-)
Exactly that, after school an weekend clubs, being self employed means not many days off and I was working away a lot last year meant al the projects fell way behind. Putting in on TH-cam is good as it sets a schedule and forces me to get out and do it!
yup im a pipe guy too (who smokes cigarrettes tho) lol and carry one in the boot of all the cars too incase tyre fitter etc has been over zeleous with the gun etc too
The part is usually under £100 but Its the time it takes to get to it, as lots of the engine needs to be removed to reach it, and sometimes the head needs to be skimmed to get it flat again
@@DavidUKesb exactly, for a service the most that will come off is the cover over the timing belt. To get here the carbs or injection along with that manifold, the exhaust manifolds, distributor or other timing gear, if there's air con that has ro move and possibly be de-gassed then refilled. Unlike a timing belt that will wear out and snap, if nothing goes wrong they could last the cars lifetime and never need to be disturbed, so its not really worth the expense of doing it as a just in case
He's a great tip for you move the engine into your kitchen and do it there for God's sake you ain't got no room this is not the way to build an engine!!!
Wouldn't use threadlock....bit of moly paste or even just light oil. Earlier engines used regular bolts & tin gaskets, the later engines like yours used composite gaskets & stretch or torque to yeild bolts hence the angle rather than a definative torque. That was the same time they deketed the outboard row of head bolts as they actually hinder the head sealkng. If you need a thread sealer (front cover generally calls for that from memory) then permatex do a really good product exactly for that purpose. Sort of surprised you didn't put the cam followers in before fitting the heads but maybe thats just me!
Oh, Mr Richardson, it is good to see that your Rover 3500 will be back on the road fairly soon!
Ill need to get a 4600 badge made for it!
Yes sir, got to have the correct designation on the back!
When you're working on anything like a car restoration, the first thing to do is work out a safe way to handle and move the heaviest object you're going to handle - possibly the motor. Engine stands and lifts are your friend.
Ive got the crane to get it in and out but not of the stands will fit under the bench, and if not under the bench the car won't go back in the garage, so I had to leave it on the trolley!
It is very brave to release a video right after you have finished a stage.
If you decide to take the heads off to slip in the cam followers and pushrods (which would be the decent thing to do, having consideration for the next mechanic removing the heads, instead of smuggling them in through the heads with rockers removed) you may want to heat the bolt heads with a propane torch or a gas welder to soften the thread locker. You will need new head bolts.
A thought that occurred to me while watching: Whenever you feel the need to say "this doesn't make any sense", go and do some research. It may seem like a waste of time at first, especially if you don't have access to internet in the garage but eventually it may save you time and money.
Well done Matt, great progress. (Those head bolts looked like hard work!) Good luck with the continuing rebuild.
Nice to see it come together!
I love you man. You’re just like a beloved friend who I haven’t seen for 20 years. And you love to talk about my passion. Cars
Furious Torquing! Good job on the engine...be good to hear it running. Can't beat a V8 💪
I cant wait, drove something V8 today and it made me want to come home and get on with this!
I know what you mean...I bought an Audi B7 RS4 in February as I missed that V8 sound after selling my Mustang. Which V8 did you just drive...or can't you say 😉
engine stand is essential on this kind of job saves your knees back and makes the torquing much easier
I need a higher work bench one can fit under
Real steel in Uxbridge, does everything v8 3.5 👍
Just out of curiosity, I thought 4.6 are 10 bolt heads? The outside bolts are probably only worth tightening lightly.
Good video, looking forward to seeing it running.
I missed the 13k Bong! and now it's nearly 14! Keep your pimp hand strong!
Im trying to work out how to do a live stream and read the comments to answer questions when 15k rolls around. If I figure it out Ill shout before it happens!
"Anyone can move an engine on their own " and they later discover they have given themselves a hernia :o)
Keep back straight & bend your KNEES.
Great to see the V8 coming to together👍😁
Not long now...
O M G health and safety ....and your back ....... can’t wait to see you pick the V8 up to fit ......
I juggle these for breakfast....I can lift the block or the crank...but not together
Good to see more work done on the Rover Matt.
Its getting there!
That was the perfect example of how not to torque cylinderheads bolts!!!!
I manhandled a bottom end out of an SD1 without a crane. I could'nt stand up straight for three days
I do enjoy your random film references!
Its just a shame I sometimes have to refer to reality
just noticed your name...:-)
Ok even I'm gonna hate myself but... Which Rover v8 is getting the best head?
Hi Matt, great video,what a lump that is but it's looking good,a engine stand would be better but it seems a bit cramped there,can't wait to see it purring again.
I measured up but an engine stand wont go under the bench, which is a right pain!
@15:15 *PERMANENT* thread lock!? Eek! The 90 degree angle torque setting is to allow the bolts to stretch. You should have to wait between each 90 degree for about 15 mins to let them stretch. They are torque-to-yield bolts, and shouldn't be reused.
they are new bolts, but no mention of a 15 minute wait anywhere
@@furiousdriving Yeah, you mentioned in the video you had conflicting / partial instructions. I'm no expert but any head bolt I've fitted with an angular torque requirement has had fitting instructions from the manufacturer of the engine (if OEM) or of the fastener (if 3rd party) specifying the wait period to allow for stretch. It's most likely why you had such a struggle.
I hope you never have to remove those heads because thread lock is NOT what you needed. In fact a good substitute for the 3 M sealer/lube is plumbers teflon paste (not tape!) used for lubing large screw threads on liquid and gas lines.
Now,back to the thread lock. When the bolts are undone in the future, the threads will come out with the bolt ..... 😥
You'll now be wondering why your legs are aching so much - better than yoga or the gym! Good work. Just look forward to that nice burble when it's all finished :-)
mostly its my elbow where it smacked the engine when the socket slipped!
Duck egg though?! Thought they were always orange.
Buick in '73 were Alpine Green (I think its alpine - names on the can), I found a concours judges manual with the colour references for each year
Just Love your enthusiasm and the joy
its been sat so long it feels amazing to have it coming together at last
@@furiousdriving work,family etc I'd imagine, keep up the good work,I love the mix of car reviews and repairs/renovations
Exactly that, after school an weekend clubs, being self employed means not many days off and I was working away a lot last year meant al the projects fell way behind. Putting in on TH-cam is good as it sets a schedule and forces me to get out and do it!
V8 4.6 cushty great vids keep it up
VHT isn't ideal for a sump, to be fair it's not really ideal for anything! Smoothrite or even truck bed liner works well.
Exactly how I'd do it myself but I'd get a pipe to give more leverage. Not as strong as I used to be...
yup im a pipe guy too (who smokes cigarrettes tho) lol and carry one in the boot of all the cars too incase tyre fitter etc has been over zeleous with the gun etc too
Lol you are like wrestling a russian bear
A bear would have been easier...
When you hear of a head gasket 'going', why is it expensive when clearly the head gasket isn't an expensive part? Thanks
The part is usually under £100 but Its the time it takes to get to it, as lots of the engine needs to be removed to reach it, and sometimes the head needs to be skimmed to get it flat again
Thanks. That makes sense. I presume for the reason you've explained it's not practical to change a head gasket as part of a say, 20,000 mile service?
@@DavidUKesb exactly, for a service the most that will come off is the cover over the timing belt. To get here the carbs or injection along with that manifold, the exhaust manifolds, distributor or other timing gear, if there's air con that has ro move and possibly be de-gassed then refilled.
Unlike a timing belt that will wear out and snap, if nothing goes wrong they could last the cars lifetime and never need to be disturbed, so its not really worth the expense of doing it as a just in case
@@DavidUKesb A blown head gasket is relatively rare, and it's certainly not something that you would replace routinely.
Thanks for that. Most helpful.
Love this vid.. Never a fan of the V8 though
Doesn't the noise get you though? Nothing like a V8 for sound
He's a great tip for you move the engine into your kitchen and do it there for God's sake you ain't got no room this is not the way to build an engine!!!
U r