Rover V8 distributor replacement and adjustment
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 3 ก.ค. 2019
- This part 2 of project orange , and addresses and explains on how to replace a distributor on a Rover V8 3.9 L engine as fitted in the land-rover, MGB-GT, discovery etc..
- ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
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Distributors and timing lights bring back many happy memories working in the garage .
Yep, those were the days when things were simple and efficient
I very much agree! Think I'll have to buy myself a new strobe light. And, by the way, I'll have to buy the right sort of car to go with it ;-)
Still use mine. Mk1 Golf.
Excellent, clear, step-by-step instruction. You have a great teaching style. Cheers Steve. I had two MGB Roadsters when I was younger. Can't drive now due to failing eyesight. But this takes me back to fun days when I was always under or inside the car. 😀
thanks for the comments, and its nice to get these comments, hopefully it goes well with the eyes
Thanks D3Sshooter....for 2021, this is my favourite TH-cam video! Silly Range Rover 3.9 engines...you need to remove the distributor to get to the rear power steering bracket bolt....and in rushing, I forgot to set my balancer to TDC....AND forgot to make sure my rotor was pointing to #1.....idiot! I couldn't get the rotor to line up on #1 when reinstalling the distributor...and your "10 to 4" trick saved the day excellent!!! I got some pipe and bashed the end to make a reverse screwdriver....another custom tool for the bag! Perfect...dropped right in on numero uno! The EFI setups make removing the rocker cover a real pain, so I just rolled the dice and hoped I was on the compression stroke....nope, had to remove and rotate the crank another 360. Thanks again....next time I won't forget the basics! Keep up the great work!! :)
Thanks for the comments
Nice and clear explanation in plain English, even a non mechanic like me can understand. A bit like being taught by a favorite Grandad!!
Thanks for the comments Paul, and just maybe I am a grandad..
The best explanation and instructions I have seen. Thank you.
Thank you for the comments, my pleasure
Absolutely one of the best explainer videos on TH-cam - many thanks.
Thanks Steve! This was an informative video to watch while drinking my coffee, on my Country's Independence Day! ...Newk from Kentucky USA
Happy independence day USA. Thanks , I hope you enjoyed it.
@@D3Sshooter p
Thank you for this very instructive video! I watched it several times and then had the confidence to replace the 40+ year old distributor in my TR8. The new one slipped right in on the first try and after adjusting the timing my engine is running so much better. I appreciate you taking the time to create this very helpful and excellent step by step video.
Glad it helped!
Brilliant "How To Guide"!!! Ive ordered a new distributor today having broken my existing plates so this will be invaluable. Thank you so much 👍
Glad it helped!
Just to say I've also got an orange MGB GT Sebring and I'm about to fit a 3.9L over the next few months. Your videos are really clear and useful, I hope you keep making more! Thanks.
Really , that is great.... keep an eye on the steering column as that comes so close to the exhaust collector. I had to put extra spacers in. Mine is also a conversion 3.9 .. Lots of fun.... good luck with the work and maybe a video ?
@@D3Sshooter spacers in the engine mount?
The best diy howto video on the Internet.
Steve, two critical comments:
1. Your hat's drawstring/lanyard dangles **dangerously close** to the rotating fiddlybits during your timing gun checks! Loose sleeves, drawstrings and gloves cause more injuries than the bloodied bare knuckles associated with bare handed wrenching. :-)
2. Your comment about the other method of determining TDC... pulling the valve cover, would have been perfectly capped with an indication of which rocker is the intake and which is the exhaust [the forwardmost one being the exhaust valve, if memory serves me]. *This is only practically useful if the port side [left side, if you are facing forward] valve cover has a filler or vent in front, of course.
Chapeau to your technical information videos D3S shooter. One of the best technical instruction videos I have seen here so far. And I am even more thrilled as I bought an MG B GT RV 8 conversion myself and will improve it performance-wise for occasional track days and hilclimbs. :-)
HarryHunterx thanks for the comments and good luck with your V8. Maybe post a video ?
@@D3Sshooter Good evening Sir. Yes look at my youtube channel und the link th-cam.com/video/AiZ_Lbry_jc/w-d-xo.html you can find a clip of my 1. hillclimb last year in the Austrian Alpes at Stoderzinken, which is also a stage at the famous Ennstal Classic. If you will send my contact details like Email address or facebook account I can send you fotos as well. Al the best Harry
Great video. Dizzy on my 95 Disco just went out. Time to get a strobe light (for the disco!)
Very good video. You explain everything nice and clearly, thanks!
Tastes Like Petrol txs
Excellent video! This will help with my TVR as it has the same engine. Thanks!
Great work Steve thanks for sharing 👍🇦🇺
Thanks for the comments, my pleasure
This is a job i have to do in the next few days ! i was dreading it !.......but not after watching this video
Thanks for the comments, happy that it helped out
Verry good Working! Greetings from a Rover SD1 3,5 Ltr. vanden Plas Driver from Germany.
Thank you very much!
Very high quality explanation well done
Brilliant video, I am building a v8 in my garage and this will come very usefull
Thanks for the comments, you might also want to check the 123 ignition that is real cool. I just placed such an ignition
Good detail, thanks Steve.
Thank you
Great help in getting the engine running, thank.
Glad it helped
How I wish there was a lovely explanatory video like this for the Austin Somerset, trying to get the timing sorted with no timing marks has destroyed my mental health. The car is now abandoned.
very clear helpful mate
Glad it helped
I no longer have my V8 but I recall the oil pump on mine was external on bottom left. I fitted a Mallory twin point distributor which was a pain to set up.
Thank you for the comments, that must have been an older model then ?
Thanks you are great sir
would recommend fitting an improved radiator and checking the top hose it looks a bit high and may get air trapped in it
Yep that is still on my agenda
That must be a crazy little car to drive.
Oh yes, it is... one big engine and a lite body... Always fun at the traffic lights besides those new cars...of which the youngster think that they are fast. But when it jumps green... They see my tail hahaha
What plugs did you use?
Awesome!
Hello sir should I set the pointer to 3 BTDC before installing the new distributor, or after? Thank you.
Which Spark plugs for V8 Rover?
Nice 👍🏾
Thanks
This was a nice video, but i have a question, i have googled all over internet and cant find a answer to my questions, i have a rover 4.6 with a unilite mecanical distributor so i dont have any vaccum hose, you say that when you hook up the vacuum hose the advance will go higher, i assume that i need to have more then this 5 degrees, but how mutch?
Super sir
shouldnt the vacuum line you removed from the distributor be plugged when setting the timing?
Nope plug it in after
a magnetic distributor is mounted with an ignition mofile or ampflier the cables inside are both black. how do i know the positive cable to the negative one
send me a picture of it....especially of the cables and where they go..
HI flemish, WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF PUTTING THE CRANK PULLEY TO FEW DEGREES BEFORE OR AFTER TDC. ON MY OWN I WAS THINKING IT SHOULD BE PUT STRICTLY ON TDC.
M.B.S MOSHITOA (SOUTH AFRICA)
That is because the ignition/explosion of the air fuel mixture has a bit of delay, so you need to ignite it a bit earlier so you get the force just at TDC or just after
Hello again
It looks in the video that the oil driving slot on the new distributor is spring loaded ?
Regarding the connection to the oil pump, I assume that if the slot is not aligned with the distributor when you insert it, that the distributor will not push all the way home ?
I'm about to do this job myself and don't want to risk destroying the engine through lack of oil feed,
Thanks
Hi Philip, no its not spring loaded. It only has a rubber seal and that is what gives a little resistance. Make sure that the oil pump notch is in the proper direction , if not turn it with a long screwdriver. If the distributor and oil pump notch is not properly aligned , the distributor will not be able to sink in and you will see and feel it immediate. Nor will you be able to start the car, as the distributor will not have latched in on the shaft. this looks more difficult then it is. Good luck
@@D3Sshooter thanks for the quick response.
I was able complete the work today successfully thanks to your inputs. In my case I just needed to put on a new oil seal on the distributor as it was leaky.
Happy New year to you - don't forget the video on the engine / gearbox mount replacement !
I'm struggling getting my 1992 RRC running. 3.9L V8 with distributor and CUX ecu. I have replaced the plugs, wires, cap, rotor, ignition amp and adapter wire from 2 to 3 wire connector. I reset my #1 TDC and set the distributor like in the manual and on this video. I get spark, I'm making about 38psi fuel, my noid light shows me injectors are pulsing, I have pumped fuel into a container to test flow, and I have the air filter off so there are no air restrictions to MAF. Any thoughts?
Injection controlled.
Thanks for video as this is something I'll be doing soon. However, I have heard that sometimes the timing chain may have slipped a tooth which means the timing marks will be inaccurate and therefore your timing will also be wrong. If I suspect the marks are wrong how then would I accurately time the engine/new distributor? Would using a vacuum test gauge work, rotating the distributor until the maximum inches of mercury reading is found, then backing the distributor off a touch? Many thanks.
Thanks for the comments, its always good to check the real TDC with a degree wheel. that is the best thing to do before anythings else in your case. IF timing is off, it effects the ignition and even more importend the camshaft/valve timing. So if the timing is of, you might be able to compensate by rotating the distributor , but that is not going to fix the valve timing,,, so no... find the real TDC and check the camshaft alignment
where did you get 5 deg advance as a setting?
That was referenced to the V8 rover engine as a standard for this type
Thanks for the video! Is that a 215 Rover V8 engine that is in 1962 Buick Specials?
Thanks for the comments , Its the Rover V8 3.9L indeed as found in the Landrover, rovers and I do believe also in the Buick as you mentioned.
@@D3Sshooter
This engine was 4•4 litre in Australia.
Is this the same for the 3.5L Rover V8 as well?
As far as i know yes
Following you, my carbs are popping, any ideas, thanks
Could be many things, wrong timing of the ignition and or valves, or even cross induction on the HT leads, make sure that they do not cross else you might get a unwanted induction that ignites a sparkplug on a cylinder that is not ready for its ignition
Hello. Just a question about the final minute of the video. When you connect the vacuum tube at idle, do you get more or less ignition advance? And when you open the throtle, ignition advances or retards? Thanks
typical you get a bit more advance when the vacuum tube is connected, the more vacuum the more advance you get
@@D3Sshooter thanks
From someone who hasn't done this before I don't see the logic to it. What's the point in moving it to TDC when the rotor arm relates to the TCD anyway. Why not just mark on the engine where the rotor arm is pointing without turning the engine round? What's the point in marking on an old distributor when you're putting in a new distributor? Are you supposed to transfer the marks across? Nothing makes sense
Let me try to explain this: First a distributor has no clue what cylinder 1 is nor does it has any clue what the firing sequence is. Secondly the distributor has a vacuum membrane on the side, and that can be in the wrong place when installing . in such a way that you can't turm the distributor. Fourth, the distributor must fit into a slotted nut part of the oilpump and that can be a bit of fiddling. The old one is marked so in case the new one is an issue ( slotted shaft) , we can fit it right back without to any hassle. As I stated the new one has no clue where cylinder 1 is and the firing sequence... its just rotates , one output HTL at the time, so it you that needs to define where cylinder 1 starts and position the dissy so that it can be rotated for advance adjustments. ( remember the vacuum membrane on the side). It really does not matter where you start with cyl-1 as long as you get the slotted shaft right and the follow on HTL cabling aligned with the fireorder in the clockwise direction. Always check the position of the rotor with the marking on crankcase polly , for your first cylinder at the compression stroke (TDC).. I hope that helps
hi Flemish. but what if i can use your best trick that you used on MF35. i am planning to change a timing chain on vw polo 2011 it is now recording 250000km. no problem with it yet. but just fear it might break anytime. although i dont see those tdc and degrees on my engine, but i think to use MF35 TRICK. AND THAT IS
i think to open the top cover to see velves. rotate the engine till outlet for pistol 3 closes and inlet just try to open and stop just there. at that moment i will be knowing that pistol one is firing. therefore i can mark my crank and cam shaft without looking for their marks.
i like MF35 TRICK, HAHAHA I Master it.
do you allow me to go do it as my superior.
SORRY I WANTED TO SAY WHEN THE OUTLET OF PISTOL 4 NOT 3.
The best way if you have no marks , is just to position the engine in any position and place everywhere markers on the pulleys , so that once you placed the new timing belt its all in its original position.
@@D3Sshooter THANKS. ONE OTHER THING I LIKE ABOUT YOU IS THAT YOU REPLY PEOPLE.
M.B.S MOSHITOA (SOUTH AFRICA)
On most MGBGTV8s the advance retard cylinder is in the opposite position pointing down.
Can you explain that please, not sure what you mean
@@D3Sshooter the advance retard vacuum cylinder should point down to the right yours is 180 degrees out.....but it doesn't really matter if you look at the MGBGTV8 workshop supplement you will see keep up the good work!
Didn't Rover use Buick engines 3.9L
Thanks for the comments, yes indeed
How much cost
125 euro
9:15
Take the rocker cover off?! Isn't that a bit extreme? Doesn't that mean losing the gasket and having to replace it, after having to scrape bits of the old one off first. What about sticking a compression tester in no.1 spark plug hole and watching the pointer to see when it's compressing, i.e. approaching firing position, that's the method I know.