TwoTrees SK1 CoreXY 3D printer review - can it really print at 700 mm/s?
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 มิ.ย. 2024
- SK1 is a Klipper based, fast CoreXY 3D printer by Two Trees. According to specs it is able to print at 700 mm/s speed and 20.000 mm/s² acceleration.
Product link (affiliate): shrsl.com/4e57l
Discount code: NBSK ( $60 discount now )
Mentioned in the video:
Flow rate test tool: hotend-flow-tester.netlify.app/
D6 dice: www.printables.com/model/3992...
Owl from 3D scanning video: www.mytechfun.com/video/286
Floating boat: www.printables.com/en/model/2...
Contents:
0:00 Introduction, specifications
1:24 Unboxing
2:16 Closer look
4:49 What is inside?
5:40 Assembling
7:45 Firmware update
8:24 Calibration, leveling
10:16 Slicer
10:34 D6 dice
12:10 Benchy
13:28 Bed level test
14:50 Max flow rate
15:42 Benchy (re-sliced)
16:12 Unloading filament
17:05 Spiral (vase) mode
17:58 Owl (3h printing)
18:23 Noise
18:56 Extrusion test
19:26 Conclusions
#3dprinting #twotrees #klipper #sk1 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Very informative review!
Great review, thanks. Would appreciate a comparison between the K1 and K1C, seems to incorporate improvements, biggest change is the extruder/hot end.
If they can fix that first layer issue i am in. I do have a feeling this printer will be cheaper soon. The thing i like with this printer is the ability to upgrade, buying different nozzles (perhaps hotend) with an ease. However i have seen some review that taking apart the hotend housing is kinda PITA
I've never been sold on the Z-Axis Linear rail. I've had printers that I upgraded from wheel to linear, but notice no difference in the Z. It works great for the x & y providing great precision and shows improvement, but that's expected, that's were all the 'work' gets done. But, the Z-Axis only changes by a layer-unit only after the previous layer has finished; i.e. not a lot of 'work.' It's a great to have, I guess, but does it provide any practical benefit in regards to the print?
I think we can benefit from linar rails on Z, linear rail is more rigid and it holds better the position in XY direction (in case there is any inaccuracy or bending of the leadscrew, the linear rail holds better the position). But probably the benefit is minimal, hardly measurable.
The z-height will shift continually due to compensating for the bed mesh. Then there is ‘z-hop’, which most often produces better results.
There's also the maintenance aspect, adjusting V-wheels is always a touchy-feely process compared to just lubricating rods once in a while (if even). But it's not a huge difference by any means.
@@boggisthecat Z-Hop! Okay, I'll buy that! That is one practical benefit for printing! Cheers!
@MyTechFun @Duckferd Thanks for your responses. Agreed. From a basic mechanical, easy setup, and maintenance perspective linear rails do have value. Cheers!
Well I don't wanna pay 600$ to print PLA PETG at 11mmc/s, even 200$ bedslingers nowadays print at more than 20mmc/s so they are faster.
more of a RatRig Vcore 3 clone with the 3 bed level leadscrews for leveling. ratrig also puts the spool holder on the right side!!
The design looks similar to a RatRig with the 3 Point Kinematic Bed.
Yes, my first thought was that it is similar to 2.4 Voron, but there we have 4 points. Yes, RatRig is better comparison. Thx.
I ordered it, the printer does not print, it crashes randomly on Emergency Stop "MKS-THR timer too close" A month of communication with the manufacturer so far without result.
But at least they are talking to you, me, not so much.
@@airheadbit1984 I gave up, I completely rebuilt the printer. Now it works. From producer until now, no ideas or parts! Don't buy it unless you want to put more money into it like I did.
probably your gentry is not straight causing the mismatch of the measured bed mesh.
looks incomplete, and why do you need to play around with the firmware..? creality k1 and bambu labs are far better.
600$ Chinesium printer
It just looks good and prints well for a bit then the Chinesium parts start to wear out and it becomes a nightmare to diagnose and fix.
Btw did TwoTrees tell you to use a white filament so the imperfections don't show up as well?
Putting aside the obvious saltiness of this comment, I was debating the merits of the points being made and I was thinking about how many non-Chinese printers are even available to the masses. The immediate contender is Prusa. Putting aside the fact that not many Prusa printers come in under $600 (and they also use some Chinese parts), their flagship XL is a nightmare to diagnose and fix out of the box. Whereas companies like Bambulabs are able to create something that is the closest equivalent of a press and forget 3D printer. So it seems like it's a lot less about where the printer is made or sources its parts; but rather how much time, effort and engineering is put into its design and use.
@@Duckferd do u even print bro
lmao, you dont have to simp for china @@Duckferd
with 11mm³ flow it can't even print 250mm/s with 0.2mm layer height, no matter how the printer is built. sure you can set 600mm in slicer but it will slow it down to match max volumetric flow. chinese nonsense, high speed printers crippled by cheap hotends. like building a tank and inserting a vw polo engine.
Yes, they can quote the maximum speed they can move the toolhead, until the cows come home. If it can't push the filament out fast enough they shouldn't call it "print speed" . It's just linear axis speed
What gets my goat... They build these -300mm/s- sorry, they call them *600/700mm/s printers* that are supposed to be *print ready w/ minor assembly and setup.* They *fine tune* the PLA profiles and then just change the nozzle and bed temps for other filament types. I have several printers, none of which function with the same settings for PLA and PETG. You can't just change the nozzle/bed temps and say that it's a completed PETG (or TPU, ABS, etc.) profile, it requires further calibration.
@@NickBR57well.. in theory if you install 0.2 mm nozzle, you can use those 700 mm/s speed, flow rate should be enough ;-) joke to aside, they are listening to reviewers, I am sure they will solve this problem in the future. Yes, big question is why is it not tested already in the factory..
Nobody wants to use garbage factory hotends anyway. Either they're grossly underpowered or use proprietary nozzle ecosystem that precludes using any good nozzles. Give me a garbage 11 mm³/s hotend that keeps the cost of the printer down and I can just put a $60 upgrade on it and be going 50 mm³/s.
@@daliasprints9798 A stock Ender 3 Pro hotend and extruder setup can hit about 12mm³/s with 5% under extrusion at 230C, which granted is a bit hotter than most PLA likes. Just swapping to a Sprite SE direct drive will get you 14mm³/s at 210C and 16mm³/s at 230C with better consistency. Bimetal heatbreak and a modded clone CHT so the entry is properly chamfered will get you 22mm³/s at 210C and 24mm³/s at 230C. This is all from my testing and of course results will vary, but yeah for around $50 total invested it doubles the flow rate capability. I was actually able to get up to 30mm³/s at 230C with Creality carbon fiber PLA and had 5% under extrusion, but I won't run the filament that hot because of clogging issues if there is heat creep. Still means it's possible with some materials. Of course, no way an Ender 3 is 250mm/s or greater to reach that 30mm³/s anyways, but with a 0.8mm nozzle I was able to hit even higher flow rates and then you only need to hit like 120mm/s to get there, but of course all of this is too limited by cooling anyways. Ramble ramble.
I love how the Chinese clones copy other Chinese clones xD
Prints look really bad for the price just buy a bambu p1p on sale xD
These companies are still using step sticks? SMH smh indeed.
Tl.dr a shitty Bambu Lab P1P clone