Thanks for the great video. I had a couple of corroded carriage bolts on the footrests of my 455 also. I like the fact that I can still get parts for it. I have a transmission leak that I have to find and will be fixing that this winter.
Thank you for sharing this video. For those with a 445 or 455, they could use a 10mm "dogbone" (ratcheting wrench) to reach the screws inside the wheel wells.
Thank you so much for posting the “How To’s”. $300. for a once a year service is way to expensive. Changed oil, oil filter, both air filters, and fuel filter. Parts delivered to the front door from Amazon I think $87.00.
Not sure if this will make sense. The mower deck height adjustment knob was "froze" when I purchased the machine. I removed all the panels and the knob turns freely and the nut on the mower turns freely. My guess it was something caught in the adjuster. That said. When I put it back together, would you suggest I turn the nut all the down or up (never knowing what the height of the mower was to start). BTW gonna be fool in class, the adjuster has a + and a - on it. Kin I assume that the + is to raise the deck? Thanks appreciate intelligent responses.
The foot rest, there’s no bolts holding it on? Also on eBay they sell an after market reverse pedal which you still have the original wedge . You’ll double your reverse speed. Just search after market replacement reverse pedal 455 or what ever number you have
How did you clean the seat suspension rails? I've removed mine from the fender assembly and am trying to use Liquid Wrench, but they are not loosening up as much as I'd like. I don't have a parts washer. Also, on my 445, the seat adjustment lever is on the right side rail, and its spring is attached to the front of the right side rail. Do the two pieces of each rail come completely apart or not? They only seem to want to come apart about 1/3 of the length of the bottom rail.
Bob, it does take a bit of work to get the rails to slide. Mine were just like you describe. I used WD-40, then a couple of different kinds of penetrating fluid, then rinsed with soapy hot water, then squirted with a "driveway nozzle", then more penetrating fluid, then water, then dried, then lubed, all while working the rails back and forth. it does take quite awhile to get the rails loosened up. The rails get really packed with dirt. The rails don't come completely apart, but they will slide quite a ways, once cleaned.
I do not think I have a direct video on engine removal but I should have something in one of my 425 tear down videos. To remove the engine you will need to remove the sides, hood, and the front grill holder. That gives you good access to the engine. You will need to remove the fuel lines, drain the radiator, and disconnect the hoses, and remove all the electrical connections (plugs, starter etc). Then you will need to decide how you want to remove the driveshaft. Either at the engine or at the transaxle. Remove the four bolts holding the engine down and then either use and engine hoist or find a friend to help lift it out.
For flow or pressure? Pressure can be tested at a few locations. The easiest is at the hydraulic outlets. Stock the pressure is generally 850-1000 psi at high throttle.
Where did you get new plastic Christmas tree push clips for the mats? The fact JD uses automotive body hardware to make these thing look pretty is getting very old. I bet the new tractors have even more crappy body parts.
I have no intentions of adding a turbo to any of my diesel that don't come with a turbo. At the moment it not something I feel qualified for or have a desire to do. Several folks have done it and they seem to work well though.
Thanks for the great video. I had a couple of corroded carriage bolts on the footrests of my 455 also. I like the fact that I can still get parts for it. I have a transmission leak that I have to find and will be fixing that this winter.
Thank you for sharing this video. For those with a 445 or 455, they could use a 10mm "dogbone" (ratcheting wrench) to reach the screws inside the wheel wells.
Thank you so much for posting the “How To’s”. $300. for a once a year service is way to expensive. Changed oil, oil filter, both air filters, and fuel filter. Parts delivered to the front door from Amazon I think $87.00.
Not sure if this will make sense. The mower deck height adjustment knob was "froze" when I purchased the machine. I removed all the panels and the knob turns freely and the nut on the mower turns freely. My guess it was something caught in the adjuster. That said. When I put it back together, would you suggest I turn the nut all the down or up (never knowing what the height of the mower was to start). BTW gonna be fool in class, the adjuster has a + and a - on it. Kin I assume that the + is to raise the deck? Thanks appreciate intelligent responses.
The foot rest, there’s no bolts holding it on? Also on eBay they sell an after market reverse pedal which you still have the original wedge . You’ll double your reverse speed. Just search after market replacement reverse pedal 455 or what ever number you have
The bolts holding the footrest on are shown towards the end of the video.
Thx buddy for the video ...
Good Video.
How did you clean the seat suspension rails? I've removed mine from the fender assembly and am trying to use Liquid Wrench, but they are not loosening up as much as I'd like. I don't have a parts washer. Also, on my 445, the seat adjustment lever is on the right side rail, and its spring is attached to the front of the right side rail. Do the two pieces of each rail come completely apart or not? They only seem to want to come apart about 1/3 of the length of the bottom rail.
Bob, it does take a bit of work to get the rails to slide. Mine were just like you describe. I used WD-40, then a couple of different kinds of penetrating fluid, then rinsed with soapy hot water, then squirted with a "driveway nozzle", then more penetrating fluid, then water, then dried, then lubed, all while working the rails back and forth. it does take quite awhile to get the rails loosened up. The rails get really packed with dirt.
The rails don't come completely apart, but they will slide quite a ways, once cleaned.
Bob I think I answered some of your question in this video. th-cam.com/video/dovLSyPeTd4/w-d-xo.html
Do you have a video showing how to remove the engine?
I do not think I have a direct video on engine removal but I should have something in one of my 425 tear down videos. To remove the engine you will need to remove the sides, hood, and the front grill holder. That gives you good access to the engine. You will need to remove the fuel lines, drain the radiator, and disconnect the hoses, and remove all the electrical connections (plugs, starter etc). Then you will need to decide how you want to remove the driveshaft. Either at the engine or at the transaxle. Remove the four bolts holding the engine down and then either use and engine hoist or find a friend to help lift it out.
@@mmrbeef thank you sir!
How do we test the pump
For flow or pressure? Pressure can be tested at a few locations. The easiest is at the hydraulic outlets. Stock the pressure is generally 850-1000 psi at high throttle.
Where did you get new plastic Christmas tree push clips for the mats? The fact JD uses automotive body hardware to make these thing look pretty is getting very old. I bet the new tractors have even more crappy body parts.
Not a very helpful video, I’m trying to see what it takes to remove the foot pan on the right side. 😊
Hi! Are you going to be adding a turbo charger to your John Deere 455 and or to your John Deere x748?
I have no intentions of adding a turbo to any of my diesel that don't come with a turbo. At the moment it not something I feel qualified for or have a desire to do. Several folks have done it and they seem to work well though.