Following this guide was a breeze! I've never attempted anything like this before. I practised soldering before I cracked on and I seem to have got the knack as it all went very well. Cutting the plug off is a point of no return! The sound set is fabulous and my Molly scuttles around just as she should. Many thanks for the guide. I see you have a subsequent install with no cab removal. I wish I'd waited as that bit of surgery is a bit stressful but all came good in the end. 👍
I struggle with OO Class 08's. This video didn't miss any part of the installation and so proves for a very useful video. I've also read the script, and again, this makes purchasing the parts easier. The only item I see missing from the list is the screwdriver. Excellent video. Regards. Steve
Great video. What is the shim you used under the motor to get the clearances needed? Apologies if I missed. Having used an ESU, await the new Hornby Power Bank so great to see you remove the cab on here too, as never attempted this. Well shown. Not as overly convinced about adopting glues myself to replace the screwed down motor cage top assembly due for example, if too much torque were applied when running, say by a hand weighing down, causing the worm and gearing to try force the motor up and out of mesh, whilst running but, well shown again. Finally, it was Carl at Hornby who I’ve heard mention about Bluetooth decoder running with cordless motors and the trials burning out some they initially tried. Your trials seem to suggest this motor hasn’t suffered this fate, encouraging stuff 👍
Hi Andy, typical Yorkshire response, lots of questions 🤣 Ok the spacer comes with the motor, just use the lower one. The glue actually works, it’s not my first option but this is what the paid conversions are using. So it’s like for like and definitely achievable by the home modeller, level 1 or2. I think l there are extra tweaks on this and as new components come it will be fun to see what we can do. TWW have a new version of motor due anytime that could move us on too. My own 08s are on Zimo with Digitrains Profile , I need to show a back to back 😁👍
Well I admire your skill and determination but that's made my mind up for me. When my 08 arrives it'll be the AE Stay alive which will plug into the AE 6 pin decoder. That along with a BT dongle will do me. I'm not too bothered about the sound from a class 08.
Until you hear it! If you are not needing the Bluetooth element, I really recommend the Zimo set up from Digitrains, Paul there has created a stunning sound / running project, both my 08s run it, it is £160 ish but that’s stay alive, speaker and decoder all in the body. 😁👍
@HighFell I'm looking forward to seeing that one. I still enjoy watching the technical ones. One day, I'll possibly have a go at something. I think Dylan will be doing an update video on his 009-layout soon 🙂👍
What sound profile did you use? Is there a kind of generic diesel? I am not too fussed about the stay alive, I would like a cab light though. If I ever attempt the conversion, I will give that a go
Sound is a genuine 08 sample that Hornby have done for the free profiles they do on the HM DCC App. I would strongly recommend a stay alive, it transforms the running for a swb loco running across lots of points etc. Lights are still easy to fit, until you do all the options the it’s just time and patience, simple cab light should be pretty easy. I’m looking at a few tweaks to this upgrade and developing it more so people can get a few more bells and whistles in without too much stress. 😁👍
How does it run with the reduced weight? Fitted coreless motor to my 08, but still on analogue DC. Next choice is your method vs dremeling the body for the dcc chip. Already done a bit of modest cutting to get a 12x8x8 speaker in the front (though a 12x8x7 would be much easier). I don't want a stay alive in this version, so looks like I will be able to forego the cab removal, just as well because I would bet money on me snapping it off!
It’s more forgiving to remove than you might at first think. Stay alive in such a short loco is a huge win. I have 2 fitted with Zimo set up, parts alone are £160 so the HM DCC set up is a real bargain. Performance is great, the coreless has revised gearing so improves torque and the weight change is not noticeable so far. There are lots of speaker options, this was done like this as it’s the speaker that comes with the decoder 👍
If you check on the Hornby website, you can find the manual for the HM 7000/DCC system. It’s very thorough and really well written. There are all the diagrams for all the decoders with full instructions on what pins do what. That should sort you out 😁
Following this guide was a breeze! I've never attempted anything like this before. I practised soldering before I cracked on and I seem to have got the knack as it all went very well. Cutting the plug off is a point of no return!
The sound set is fabulous and my Molly scuttles around just as she should. Many thanks for the guide. I see you have a subsequent install with no cab removal. I wish I'd waited as that bit of surgery is a bit stressful but all came good in the end.
👍
So happy it’s all gone well 👍
I struggle with OO Class 08's.
This video didn't miss any part of the installation and so proves for a very useful video.
I've also read the script, and again, this makes purchasing the parts easier.
The only item I see missing from the list is the screwdriver.
Excellent video. Regards. Steve
Thank you, excellent suggestion, there is now a link to the screwdriver set, at £11 they are great quality and good value 👍
Great video. What is the shim you used under the motor to get the clearances needed? Apologies if I missed. Having used an ESU, await the new Hornby Power Bank so great to see you remove the cab on here too, as never attempted this. Well shown. Not as overly convinced about adopting glues myself to replace the screwed down motor cage top assembly due for example, if too much torque were applied when running, say by a hand weighing down, causing the worm and gearing to try force the motor up and out of mesh, whilst running but, well shown again. Finally, it was Carl at Hornby who I’ve heard mention about Bluetooth decoder running with cordless motors and the trials burning out some they initially tried. Your trials seem to suggest this motor hasn’t suffered this fate, encouraging stuff 👍
Hi Andy, typical Yorkshire response, lots of questions 🤣
Ok the spacer comes with the motor, just use the lower one. The glue actually works, it’s not my first option but this is what the paid conversions are using. So it’s like for like and definitely achievable by the home modeller, level 1 or2. I think l there are extra tweaks on this and as new components come it will be fun to see what we can do. TWW have a new version of motor due anytime that could move us on too.
My own 08s are on Zimo with Digitrains Profile , I need to show a back to back 😁👍
Well I admire your skill and determination but that's made my mind up for me. When my 08 arrives it'll be the AE Stay alive which will plug into the AE 6 pin decoder. That along with a BT dongle will do me. I'm not too bothered about the sound from a class 08.
Until you hear it! If you are not needing the Bluetooth element, I really recommend the Zimo set up from Digitrains, Paul there has created a stunning sound / running project, both my 08s run it, it is £160 ish but that’s stay alive, speaker and decoder all in the body. 😁👍
All far to technical for me, I'll stick to loading barrels of custard. Great video... Cheers James 🙂👍
I promise there will be some train running soon! And it’s worth the wait James. 😁
@HighFell I'm looking forward to seeing that one. I still enjoy watching the technical ones. One day, I'll possibly have a go at something. I think Dylan will be doing an update video on his 009-layout soon 🙂👍
Great video as always and looking forward to some running videos 👍
Hopefully something to show off some ‘changes’ at High Fell is coming soon. 😁
What sound profile did you use? Is there a kind of generic diesel?
I am not too fussed about the stay alive, I would like a cab light though. If I ever attempt the conversion, I will give that a go
Sound is a genuine 08 sample that Hornby have done for the free profiles they do on the HM DCC App. I would strongly recommend a stay alive, it transforms the running for a swb loco running across lots of points etc. Lights are still easy to fit, until you do all the options the it’s just time and patience, simple cab light should be pretty easy. I’m looking at a few tweaks to this upgrade and developing it more so people can get a few more bells and whistles in without too much stress. 😁👍
How does it run with the reduced weight?
Fitted coreless motor to my 08, but still on analogue DC. Next choice is your method vs dremeling the body for the dcc chip. Already done a bit of modest cutting to get a 12x8x8 speaker in the front (though a 12x8x7 would be much easier). I don't want a stay alive in this version, so looks like I will be able to forego the cab removal, just as well because I would bet money on me snapping it off!
It’s more forgiving to remove than you might at first think. Stay alive in such a short loco is a huge win. I have 2 fitted with Zimo set up, parts alone are £160 so the HM DCC set up is a real bargain. Performance is great, the coreless has revised gearing so improves torque and the weight change is not noticeable so far. There are lots of speaker options, this was done like this as it’s the speaker that comes with the decoder 👍
@HighFell , do you have or know where I can find the pinout for the decoder?
Thanks
If you check on the Hornby website, you can find the manual for the HM 7000/DCC system. It’s very thorough and really well written. There are all the diagrams for all the decoders with full instructions on what pins do what. That should sort you out 😁
@ thanks